
GojRyrightN^ 



A\ 






^ 



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Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1871, 

By henry bill, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, 



Rand, Avery, & Co., Printers, 
3 CoRNHiLL, Boston. 



aa /cf-A . 



THE 



NEW CYCLOPEDIA 

OF 

DOMESTIC Economy, 

AND 

PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 

ADAPTED TO ALL CLASSES OF SOCIETY, 

AND COMPRISING 

SUBJECTS COMECTED WITH THE INTERESTS OF EVERY FAMILY; 



DOMESTIC EDUCATION, HOUSES, FURNITURE, DUTIES OF MISTRESS, 

DUTIES OF DOMESTICS, THE STOREROOM, MARKETING, TABLE 

AND ATTENDANCE, CARE AND TRAINING OF CHILDREN, 

CARE OF THE SICK, PREPARATION OF FOOD FOR 

CHILDREN AND INVALIDS, PRESERVATION OF 

HEALTH, DOMESTIC MEDICINE, THE ART 

OF COOKERY, PERFUMERY, THE 

TOILET, COSMETICS, 



FIVE THOUSAND PRACTICAL EECEIPTS AND lAXIMS. 

FROM THE BEST ENGLISH, FRENCH, GERMAN, AND AMERICAN SOURCES. 
ILLUSTRATED WITH 

OVER T^VO HUNDRED ENGRAVINGS. 
EDITED BY MRS. E. F. ELLET, 

AUTHOR OF " THE WOMEN OF THE REVOLUTION," ETC., ETC. 



NORWICH, CONN.: 
PUBLISHED BY HENRY BILL. 



O. A. BROWNING, Toledo, O.; C. C. HASKELL, Lewiston, Me.; IRA A. SMITH, Milpord, 
Mass.; and HUGH HERON, Chicago, III., General Agents. 

1872. 



PREFACE. 



The importance of the subjects introduced, and their 
influence upon the happiness of the household, consti- 
tute a sufficient claim for a favorable reception of this 
volume ; for, though many books have been written on 
domestic affairs, yet no treatise so complete in all its 
parts, within the limits of a convenient manual, has 
been given to the public before the appearance of this 
work. In many matters beside cookery does the inex- 
perienced housewife need instruction and guidance. It 
has been a study, in this volume, to reduce to practical 
rules the best theories concerning an extensive and varied 
range of household duties, and to furnish simple and 
useful directions in each branch of this most interesting of 
sciences, that the work might be safely consulted in all mat- 
ters relating to the manifold responsibilities of the house- 
keeper. 

The young housekeeper will appreciate the advantages 
of a compendium which embraces rules and advice pertaining 
to all the duties expected of her; advice as to early house 
training, the taking and furnishing of a house ; the different 



departments filled by servants, and the superintendence of 
tlie mistress ; the laying in of stores and purchases in mar- 
ket; the art of making and arranging things used every 
day, and of setting out a table to advantage ; the care of 
children, and the best food for them ; the preparations most 
useful for invalids; the attendance at meals, and various 
matters in household management which no book before 
this has ever taught in detail, but which are commonly left 
to the slow teaching of individual experience. While en- 
deavoring to make this manual oi* cyclojDedia so complete as 
to meet all the wants of those who lack knowledge, care 
has been taken to arrange the various departments with 
clearness and method. A carefully prepared and copious 
index will at once direct the reader to any thing wanted. 

In the department of Cookery, arranged under forty-five 
heads, an unusually large variety of recipes is given for the 
styles in every-day living — soups, meats, sauces, <fec., because 
it was desirable to include the latest improvements, and 
because the want of variety in sucb preparations is usually 
complained of in American cookery. The French having 
so much the advantage of us, it is as well to learn something 
more of their boasted art, that those who choose may avail 
themselves of the knowledge. A number of choice recipes, 
therefore, from very recent French and English works, have 
been added to those contributed by American housekeepers 



PREFACE. 



of long experience and tried skill. Several valuable recipes, 
never before made public, liave been furnished for this work 
by Delmonico, Taylor, Wagner, Sneckner, and other pro- 
prietors of celebrated establishments in New York. 

The Toilet Department, and Perfumery, Cosmetics, <fec., 
do not strictly belong to housekeeping ; but every lady 
must desire some knowledge of them, and it is convenient 
to have a manual containing instructions as to the com- 
pounding of articles required for the hair and complexion. 
The fair reader will not object to the space and attention 
devoted to these matters. 

The Family Medical Guide is not designed to interfere 
with the province of the physician, but to furnish simple 
and approved recipes for use when medical advice cannot be 
procured, and palliatives to promote the comfort of the sick. 
All these recipes have been submitted to a prominent phy- 
sician, and approved by him. 

The section appropriated to the sick is unusually com- 
prehensive, containing many new recipes. The Miscella- 
neous Department is also enriched with several tried and 
excellent ones, never before published. The numerous 
illustrative cuts, which are found in no other volume, will 
help to explain the method and use of various housekeeping 
articles.' E. F.. E. 



CONTENTS. 



PARTI 
CHAPTER I. 

PAOS 

Thoughts and Maxims on Housekeeping, 15 

CHAPTER II. 
The Dwelling House, &c., . . . .18 

CHAPTER III. 
Furnishing a House, 21 

CHAPTER IV. 
Plate, Cutlery, House-linen, &c., %. .24 

CHAPTER V. 
Servants, 26 

CHAPTER VI. 
Duties of the Housewife. The Dinner, . 31 

CHAPTER VII. 
Duties of the Servants, . . . .41 

CHAPTER VIII. 
The Care of Children, .... 46 

CHAPTER IX. 
The Care of the Sick, . : . . 60 

CHAPTER X. 
The Store-room and Marketing, . . 53 

CHAPTER XI. 
Domestic Manipulation, . . . .59 

CHAPTER XII. 
Decanting, Straining and Filtering Liquids, 65 

CHAPTER XIII. 
The Manufacture and Use of Cements, . 69 

CHAPTER XIV. 
Powdering, Grinding, Ac, . . .72 



CHAPTER XV. 

PAOK 

Knots, Parcels, &c., 74 

CHAPTER XVI. 
Adulteration of Food and Purity of Water, 78 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Boiling, Stewing, Ac, . . . .81 

CHAPTER XVIII. 

Economy of Heat, 84 

CHAPTER XIX. 
Cleaning and Disinfecting, . . .88 

CHAPTER XX. 
Fermenting and Distilling, . . .91 

CHAPTER XXI. 
Laying out Tables and Folding Napkins, . 94 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Trussing and Carving, .... 103 

CHAPTER XXIIL 

Culinary Dtensils, 116 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

Cookery as an Art, 124 

CHAPTER XXV. 

Foreign Terms used in Cookery, . . 126 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

Condiments, 129 

CHAPTER XXVII. 

Rudiments of Cookery, .... 136 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 

Hints and Maxims, 148 

CHAPTER XXIX. 
Articles in Season for each Month, . . 149 



12 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

PART n. 

Receipts for -^oups, 155 

Meat Soups 156 

Soups of Gau-e, Poultry, Ac, . . . 171 

Vegetables, 179 

Fish Soups, 185 

Fish 188 

SheUFish, 204 

Sauces for Fish 214 

Gravies, Sauces, &c., . . * . 218 

Ketchups 242 

Farces and Stuffings, . . . .243 

Receipts for Dressing Beef, . . . 249 
Receipts for Dressing Veal, . . . 276 
Receipts for Dressing Mutton, . . . 296 
Receipts for Dressing Lamb, . . .311 
Receipts for Dressing Pork, . . .318 
Sausages and Forcemeat, .... 337 
Curing Meat, Porting and CollaVing, . 341 

Poultry and Game, 356 

Venison, 374 

Vegetables, 376 

Salads, 390 

Pickles and Store Room Sauces, . . 393 
Paste, Meat, Game and Fish Pies, . . 406 
Fruit Pies, Puffs, &c., . . . .425 

Puddings, 436 

Sweet Puddings, 439 

Italian Pastes, 450 

Rice, 452 

Cheese, . . . . . . .454 

Pancakes, Fritters, 457 

Various Modes of Cooking Eggs, . . 459 

To Make Bread, 464 

Biscuits and Warm Cakes, . . .467 
Butter, 472 



Cakes, Ac, 

Custards, Creams, Jellies, &c.. 

Coffee, Tea and Chocolate, 

Preserves, &c., . 

Beverages, 

Wines and Liqueurs, 

Cookery for the Sick, 

Food and Cookery for Children, 

Savory Dishes for Breakfast, 

BUlsofFare, ... 



PAoa 

. 473 
. 486 
. 494 
. 493 
. 510 
. 514 
. 517 
. 526 
. 529 
. 532 



PAETHI. 

Perfumery, 537 

Essences and Extracts, .... 538 
Compound Odors, or Bouquets, . . 542 

Spirituous Infusions, .... 543 

Oils for the Hair, . . . , . 545 

Cosmetics, 546 

Powders, 546 

Soaps, 547 

Cold Creams 547 

Pommades, 548 

Salves and Balsams, 549 

Vinegars, 549 

Salts, 551 

Cassolettes, 551 

Sachets, 552 

Hair Washes, 553 

Fumigating Paper, 553 

Pastilles for Necklaces, Bracelets, &c., . 554 

Hair Dyes, 554 

Depilatory, 555 

Shaving Pastes, 555 

The Family Medical Guide, . . .556 
Miscellaneous Receipts, .... 567 
Index, 588 



PART FIRST. 

THOUGHTS AND MAXIMS OK HOUSEKEEPING. 



THE 



PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



PART I. 

THOUGHTS AND MAXIMS ON HOUSEKEEPINff. 



CHAPTER I. 

Dr. Stark says, " The only test of the 
utility of knowledge is its promotion of 
the happiness of mankind." Viewed 
thus, the subject we are about to treat 
presents claims superior to most others, 
and is eminently worthy of study. The 
superintendence of a house, and the man- 
agement, forethought, domestic economy, 
and good sterling sense requisite for the 
discharge of this duty, demand applica- 
tion and perseverance, and ought to re- 
ceive as much, at least, as is bestowed 
on the acquisition of music, painting, or 
any of the ornamental accomplishments. 
Young ladies are educated to shine in 
society; would it not be well if they 
were also sedulously taught — by a sys- 
tem of training — to perform the homely 
duties which make home the abode of 
comfort 7 

It has been said that Americans in 
general have httle attachment to home. 
Often, indeed, is the domestic comfort, 
so prized in England, absent from the 
abodes even of the wealthy, in our land. 
May not this undeniable fact, and the 
roving propensity of young people in this 
country, be attributable to the circum- 
stance that girls, whose condition exempts 
them from servitude, are brought up 
wholly without reference to home du- 
ties ? Even those who may depend on 



their own labor for a subsistence, are 
taught some trade, or superficially quali- 
fied as teachers, or instructed in various 
branches of needlework ; while they know 
little or nothing of household matters ; 
though such knowledge would enable 
them to command an independence. It 
is not alone the wife and mother who 
should be skilled in domestic afiairs ; 
every girl who has emerged from child- 
hood, is liable to be called on to take 
charge of a house. If the mother is 
bedridden, or deceased, why should the 
father of daughters sixteen or eighteen 
years old be compelled to look elsewhere 
for a housekeeper, and intrust the man- 
agement to the hands of a stranger 7 

The general cultivation of this valu- 
able knowledge, too, would make the oc- 
cupation of a " help," or servant, more 
acceptable to thousands who now prefer 
starvation in a garret, or the ruin of 
health in sedentary employments. The 
more attention is turned to this branch 
of learning, the more will its importance 
be recognized, and the higher place will 
it assume in the list of useful arts ; and 
a degree of respect being accorded to 
those who excel, more will be found 
ready to engage in it as a profession. 
What an improvement would be made, 
by such a result, in our social and do- 
mestic life ! 

We would not be understood to say 



16 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



that we would have a woman merely an 
upper servant in the house it is her 
province to guide, or tliat we undervalue 
intellectual attainmeuts and elegant oc- 
cupations. But it will not deti'act from 
the charm of these, nor from the dignity 
of the well-bred lady— iLo be familiar 
with the routine of domestic duties, well 
acquainted with the minutias of house- 
hold economy, and competent to direct, 
or if need be, teach her servants ; ay, 
even, to do things herself in cases of 
necessity. On the other hand, will it 
not enhance admiration and strengthen 
regard, to see that she possesses these 
acquii'ements, and is willing to cxerci.se 
them to promote the comfort of others ? 
"Who can tell that she may not, at some 
period of life, be thrown into circum- 
stances where the mere line lady would 
be utterly helpless, or whei'e intellectual 
i-efinement and distinguished position 
may prove less available than industry, 
ingenuity, and practical common sense ? 

What is a kingdom, a merchant's 
counting-house, or a mechanic's workshop 
without a head? We do not mean a 
mere master, but a presiding intellect to 
plan, contrive, direct, and guide. Not 
less absolute or important is the rule 
of & sensible woman in her own home. 
She has full scope for the exercise of 
good taste, prudence, and refinement. 
She is invested with an amount of respon- 
sibility she perhaps never dreamed of, 
for her influence over the temper, habits, 
actions, and dispositions of those about 
her is very great, and great in proportion 
should be her self-govei"nment. for with 
self the command must begin, if it is to 
be worth having. 

There is much talk, nowadays, about 
the " rights " and " mission " of woman. 
Without entering into the merits of the 
subject, we would only say, that if women, 
from the highest to the lowest, were 
systematically educated to wield properly 
the great power they indubitablj' possess 



— a power which can be made to move 
the secret springs of action and the 
machinery of business — they would have 
little reason to complain of the want of 
influence ; and were they so trained to 
enter actively and energetically into do- 
mestic employments and aflairs, that none 
could deem it a pursuit unworthy of them, 
they would find ample scope for the 
exercise of their faculties, and the acqui- 
sition of means to live. 

There is a medium, however, in all 
things. A woman who worries all with- 
in her reach by her ultra-housewifery, 
who damps one down with soap and 
water, poisons one with furniture polish, 
takes away one's appetite by the trouble 
there is alx)ut cooking the simplest 
thing, and fidgets one by over-done tidi- 
ness and cleanliness, is almost as much 
to be avoided as a downright slut, or the 
veriest simpleton who ever took counsel 
Avith her stupid servant as to how long 
a potato ought to be boiled ; she exercises 
a pernicious influence on all, and is a. 
misery to herself and others. 

Neither would we have domestic econ- 
(Jmy and home duties vaunted, or made 
the constant theme of conversation ; 
they are the private employments of a 
woman ; she must study other things in 
order to entertain her relatives and 
friends. Those who talk most of their 
duties are generallj^ those who perform 
them most imperfectlj^. When a man 
returns to his home, or enters his sitting- 
room, fatigued and perhaps disappointed 
by the business of the day, he does not 
want to be annoyed by the detail c^ do- 
mestic accidents, the misdemeanors of 
servants, and the cheating of tradespeo- 
ple ; he has had his worries during the 
day, too. and, with that pride, oi" reserve, 
or want of confidence which is peculiar 
to most men, he perhaps keeps them to 
himself Let his example be followed in 
all cases where advice, or support, (>.. 
assistance is not absolutely necessary, 



FEMALE EDUCATION. 



17 



and pleasant, cheerful themes be chosen, 
or some amusement selected which shall 
render the evening and leisure hours 
those of relaxation and enjoyment, and 
tend to give a charm and zest to home 
■which no other place can possess. Men 
<?re free to come and go as they list, they 
have so much liberty of action, so many 
out-door resources if wearied with in- 
doors, that it is good policy, if nothing 
else, to make home attractive as well as 
comfortable. 

An education in household matters 
should be complete — comprising the 
knowledge requisite for use in all de- 
partments. 

Many a girl can make good pastry, 
jellies, &c., for an evening party, and 
being much complimented for her labors 
by those who relish the produce, forth- 
with fancies herself a capital housewife, 
while, in all probability, she scarcely 
knows how vegetables are cooked, is 
jTofoundly ignorant of the prices of the 
commonest articles of daily consumption, 
and could not tell of what material a 
housecloth ought to be made. And 
how few there are who could, in case of 
need, make a cuj) of good gruel, or a glass 
of white-wine whey, or even a little 
broth or barley-water ! We do not say 
that they could not manage to produce 
something resembling these things, bui 
the capricious appetite of the invalid 
jvould reject the tasteless messes. Many 
have suffered martyrdom from this one 
neglected branch of female education. 

Perhaps few branches of female educa- 
tion are more useful than great readi- 
ness in figures. Accounts sho-dd be 
regularly kept, and not the smallest 
article omitted to be entered. If balanc- 
ed every week or month, the income and 
outgoings will be ascertained with facil- 
ity, and their pro|x)rtions to each oth' 
er duly observed. Some people fix on 
stated sums to be appropriated to each 
diflerent article, as house, clothes, pocket, 



education of children, &c. Whatever 
may be the amount of household expen- 
diture, a certain mode should be adopted 
and strictly adhered to. Besides the 
regular account-book, in which the receipt 
of money and every payment should be 
regularly entered, a con^mon-place book 
should be always at hand for the entry 
of observations regarding agreements 
with servants, tradesmen, and various 
other subjects, so as to enable the lady 
at once to ascertain the exact state of 
the affairs under her immediate manage- 
ment. 

A minute account of the annual income 
and the times of payment should be 
taken in writing; likewise an estimate 
of the supposed amount of each article 
of expense ; and those who are early ac- 
customed to calculations on domestic 
articles will acquire so accurate a knowl- 
edge of what their establishment requires, 
as will enable them to keep the happy 
medium between prodigality and pai-si- 
mony. 

Some aver that they have no capacity 
for this matter, no taste for that. But 
if the things referred to are duties, culti- 
vate a taste — persevere in eudeavoiiiig 
to improve a capacity for them. This 
world is a beautiful one, spite of whut 
grumblers say, and thousands would find 
it a much happier one if they studied 
more what they ought to do. and sought 
their pleasure or indulged their fancies 
less. Every human Vjeing exercises some 
influence on the character, happiness 
and destinies of others, and is account- 
able for opportunities wasted, and bless- 
ings neglected or transformed. This is 
especially true of women. Every sensi- 
ble, high-minded, right-hearted woman, 
be she peeress or peasant — is, or may be, 
a blessing to many ; if not bj' great deeds 
or achievements the world calls heroic, 
by a simple, quiet, straightforward per- 
formance of the duties which lie before 
her, and are therefore given her to do. 



18 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



As it is the business of man to provide 
the means of living comfortably, so it is 
the province of woman to dispose judi- 
ciously of those means, and maintain 
order and harmony in all things. On 
her due performance of her part rest the 
comfort and social peace of home ; while 
misery and ruin follow her neglect. 
Some women, it is true, are placed in an 
unnatural position by having the burden 
of suppoi-ting the family thrown upon 
them. They have double duties, and a 
harder part to sustain; but their toils 
may be materially lightened by care and 
method in what they have to do, 

tro much by way of exordium. We 
shall now proceed through the various 
matters appertaining to a house, en- 
deavoring to present a clear chart of the 
necessary business, pointing out hidden 
locks, and showing how these may be 
avoided, and the vessel sent to float in 
calm waters. "With much labor we have 
collected information on ail subjects that 
fall within the proper scope of house- 
keeping ; and multifarious as these are, 
it is our belief that she who consults our 
index will be sure to find whatever she 
can wish to know. 



CHAPTER IL 

That sensible and oft-quoted old lady, 
^Irs. Glasse, begins one of her recipes 
thus : " First catch your hare." Follow- 
ing so good an example, Ave will first take 
a house and furnish it, before laying down 
axioms for its management. 

Before any steps are taken, the income 
or pecuniary means of the parties about 
to commence housekeeping, should be 
well considered. It is not well to rush 
into matrimony witliout due attention to 
such sublunary matters as dollars and 
cents ; for the notion that when once a 
couple is married, all wUl go right, is a 



foolish one. A young man with an in- 
come of four or five hundred dollars, 
every cent of which has been annually 
swallowed up by his own expenses, falls 
in love with a young lady who can sing 
and play well, speak French and produce 
marvels in the way of crochet or orna- 
mental work, who loves sentimental po- 
etry and romance, and can trim herself a 
neat bonnet ; but knows little of the re- 
alities of life. Having never known what 
it is to want any thing — she has no idea 
that any thing can be wanted. The 
young man feels certain in his own mind 
that a wife will be an actual saving to 
him ; and makes an eloquent declaration 
of his affection. The prospect for the fu- 
ture is but slender; for he ignores the 
fact that he has been accustomed to spend 
half his income on clothes and amuse- 
ments, which he does not think of doing 
without ; and she forgets how much she 
is in the habit of spending on gloves, rib- 
bons, perfumes, et cetera. When they are 
married — the bridal dress and entertain- 
ment not being reckoned among their ex- 
penses — they find themselves fettered by 
a thousand inconveniences, and obliged 
to deny themselves travelling and many 
other kinds of recreation ; more than 
that, the}- discover that the etiquette of 
this enlightened age, imperiously demands 
reckless expenditure, when common sense 
would advise more than usual economy ; 
and without losing the social position 
they aim to preserve, they can do nothing 
but submit. What an effect on the suc- 
cess of after-life must be such a begin- 
ning! 

However, we do not consider it our 
mission to enter on Quixotic quarrels 
with the ways of the world. It is, as 
our young people Soon find — 

" A very good world to live in, 
To lend, to spend, or to give in ; 
But to beg, or borrow, or get one's own, 
'Tis the very worst world that ever was known." 

In taking a house, the first matters to 



THE DWELLING-HOUSE. 



19 



be considered, are the rent we can afford 
to give, or the money that can be devoted 
to its purchase, and the locality that suits 
us best. 

A dwelling in town affords many op- 
portunities for social intercourse, amuse- 
ment, and the acquisition of general 
knowledge ; a suburban residence offers 
some advantages in healthiness of loca- 
tion and convenience. The remote coun- 
try has a distinct class of enjoyments, 
though want of society often makes time 
pass slowly. Where locality is not speci- 
fied, always choose one as open and airy 
as may be, and where the soil, or at any 
rate the subsoil, is not clay, where the 
drainage is good, and there is an ample 
supply of water, and no neighboring fac- 
tories giving out noxious gases and poi- 
sonous smoke and vapor. Too close a 
vicinity to a churchyard is likewise to be 
avoided. Of course, the house must be 
capable of accommodating the family who 
are to occupy it, and there should always 
be a spare room or two which can be 
used for bed-rooms, or other purposes in 
case of emergency. There should be 
closets, cellars, &c.. and good ventilation 
front and back. A fee to a well-qualified 
surveyor is often well bestowed ; for he 
may detect serious faults in a house 
which, to an ordinary observer, seems 
well built and comfortable. 

The agreement with the landlord should 
be clearly understood, and all liabilities 
as to taxes, local rates, house repairs, 
with charges for fixtures, &c., inquired 
into, and definitely arranged, before the 
agreement is signed. 

It will be well for every house to have 
some shelter at its entrance ; a porch or 
portico, in a style regulated by that of 
the rest of the building, will be found 
useful. A hall, vestibule, or entry, is es- 
sential, and the size and location of the 
staircases considerably affect the con- 
venience of the dwelling. The dining- 
room should be so placed that the way 



to it from the kitchen is easy, and yet so 
that the noise or odors do not prove an- 
noying. The general style of the draw- 
ing-room should be light and cheerful; 
that of the library plain and quiet. The 
bed-chambers should be as lofty and 
spacious as possible, and so contrived 
that a thorough draught can be obtained, 
to change the air completely. Each 
should have a chimney fireplace. Small 
closets and recesses are to be avoided as 
sleeping apartments. The nursery should 
be near the chamber of the mistress. 

Dressing and bath-rooms should be as 
uniformly attached to bed-rooms as the 
size of the house and means of the owner 
will permit ; the bath is an indispensable 
convenience. Every house should be 
provided with two water-closets at least. 
In large establishments, a breakfast-room 
looking eastward and with glass doors 
opening on a garden or lawn, a billiard- 
room for exercise within doors, a room 
for hunting and fishing tackle, a gallery 
for music, paintings, or statuary, a lady's 
boudoir or sitting-room tastefully orna- 
mented, a school-room, and domestic 
laboratory, with a conservatory, are 
convenient additions. A number of 
rooms for domestic ofiices are connected 
with the house, and various cellars, as 
well as separate buildings, appropriated 
to many different purposes — which we 
shall not describe particularly. The 
kitchen wiU be examined imder another 
head. 

In contriving the mode of warming a 
house, attention should be paid not mere- 
ly to economy of fuel, but to the preser- 
vation of a salubrious atmosphere. A 
chimney fireplace or grate is preferable 
to a stove, which is apt to give the air a 
close or disagreeable smell, and produce 
headache and stupor. Count Eumford 
imagined tbat the hot iron roasted the 
dust that settled on it, which dust was 
composed of all sorts of animal and 
vegetable matters ; others complain of 



20 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



the extreme dryness of the air. Stoves 
of brick or earthenware, used in various 
parts of Europe, are said to be better 
than iron ; but all close stoves are liable 
to the objection, that in using them it is 
difficult to change the air continually, or 
procure proper ventilation. The same 
difficulties prevail, to some extent, in 
warming a house by a furnace, and the 
dryness of the air is often productive of 
discomfort. Steam might afford an 
agreeable and convenient method of 
warming apartments. Of all the modes 
usually adopted, the advantage seems to 
lie with the open fire. The temperature 
should be steady and not too high : say 
60° or 62°. Apartments in our cities 
are generally kept at a dangerous degree 
of heat. Bed-rooms should not be 
warmed, more than to have the " outside 
chill " taken off. 

Ventilation is a very important con- 
sideration. The atmospheric air in 
breathing loses the constituent that sus- 
tains life, and must be got rid of, and re- 
placed by air that is fresh and pure. 
This change of air should be continually 
going on in our apartments. Windows 
that open at the top are useful, the 
vitiated air ascending to the ceiling. 
The practice of sleeping in rooms not 
sufficiently ventilated, is utterly destruc- 
tive to health. It should be remem- 
bered also that the vital part of air is 
exhausted by a burning light. It would 
be well to have a ventilator in the cen- 
tre of the ceiling, which can be concealed 
by ornamental work in plaster ; and *in 
the admission of fresh air, care should 
be taken that it does not come in a di- 
rect stream, so as to produce unpleasant 
draughts. 

It is often necessary to fumigate or 
disinfect the air contaminated by noxious 
effluvia. Muriatic acid and nitric acid 
fumes have been employed for this pur- 
pose, and chlorine, a most effectual agent 
in destroying noxious qualities in the air, 



is generally employed. Chloride of lime 
and chloride of soda are used as the most 
convenient preparations. The latter is 
called Labarraque's Disinfecting Liquid- 
Vinegar is used in sick rooms, and quick 
lime, alone or mixed with ashes, in sinks, 
sewers, &c. 

Having taken our house, it generally 
wants a thorough cleaning and airing. 
In spring, autumn, and winter, fires 
should be kept for three or four days, 
according to the time the house has been 
empty, and to the repairs it has under- 
gone during that interval ; for of course 
nobody ought to enter a house in the 
state of dirt and disrepair in which it is 
usually left by an out-going tenant, or if 
they do so under the notion that the 
landlord will set it all to rights after 
they are in, they will find out their mis- 
take, and repent their confidence. 

It sometimes happens that the chief 
rooms are not papered and painted until 
the house is let In such case the in-com- 
ing tenant generally has the power of 
choosing the papers, or panellings, and 
paint. He will, of course, select such as 
will best harmonize with the color which 
the furniture and hangings should have. 
We wUl now suppose the house taken, 
cleaned thoroughly^ and well aired, and 
will proceed to furnish it. But first we 
must pause to observe that young people 
will do well carefully to consider matters 
before they take upon themselves the 
troubles and responsibilities of house- 
keepers. Where their joint savings, or 
some sum especially bestowed for the 
purpose by friends or parents, will en- 
able them to make the necessary outlay 
for furniture, linen, &c., and yet have 
something left to put by for " a wet day," 
and the rent and taxes can be afforded 
by the income of the husband, it is all 
well and good. But if money must be 
borrowed, or debts incurred, begin life in 
the quietest way, rather than with these 
incumbrances. Take board or apartments 



FUENTSHIKG A HOUSE. 



21 



for a time, until you see your way clear. 
From ^150 to ^400 a year will pay for 
part of a house in a city, and much less 
in a village. Board can be obtained in 
respectable houses at four or five dollars 
a week and upwards in our largest towns. 
There are some disadvantages in this 
mode of living. It is customary to say 
that boarders are victimized ; one is 
sometimes brought into contact with 
disagreeable individuals, who become 
enemies if they find they are not re- 
ceived in a sociable or friendly manner ; 
and on the whole, it is wiser to keep 
house with three or four rooms. There 
are always respectable families to be 
found, who will let a set of apartments. 

Now to the business of furnishing a 
house. 



CHAPTER III. 

Here again the unsentimental consider- 
ation of dollars and cents obtrudes itself 
The limit to which we can go is depend- 
ent upon the funds in hand which may 
be expended without incurring debt or 
causing inconvenience. 

It would be curious to trace the his- 
tory of furniture in different ages and 
countries. But we have no space for 
such a review. The taste has been re- 
vived of late years, for pieces of ancient 
furniture, and the skill of cabinetmakers 
has been brought into requisition to pro- 
duce imitations of the antique style, or 
tasteful restorations, by the putting to- 
gether of fragments, interesting from sin- 
gular or historical associations. 

Window curtains contribute much to 
the comfort and elegance of apartments, 
tempering the light, and excluding the 
cold air. They may be of various pat- 
terns and materials. 

The hall, or entry, should be furnished 
with an umbrella and hat stand, and 
2 



chairs or hall seats. If there is a closet 
for hanging up hats-, cloaks, &a, it should 
be near the door. Door scrapers should 
always be placed at the entrance. 

Pictures on the Wall. 

Pictures, if well chosen, add much to 
the appearance of a room, and impart 
to it an air of completeness, and a 
home look, which many people know how 
to appreciate. To produce this efiect, 
the subjects of the pictures must be such 
as we can truly sympathize with, some- 
thing to awaken our admiration, rever- 
ence, or love. All the feelings of our na- 
ture may be illustrated by pictures. 
There are some which we seem to make 
bosom companions of; others have amo- 
ral effect, and at times prevent our going 
astray by their silent monitions. It is, 
therefore, worth while to take pains and 
choose good subjects, whether in engrav- 
ings or paintings, and to frame and hang 
them suitably when chosen. Gilt frames 
are most suitable for rather dark paint- 
ings, and on a deep colored wall ; while 
prints look well in a frame of composition, 
oak, rose-wood, or bird's-eye maple, fin- 
ished with a gilt moulding. Care should 
be taken to hang them in a proper light, 
so as best to bring out all the effects of 
the pictures, and to place them so that 
the light shall fall from the same side as 
represented by the painter. In picture 
galleries and great houses, brass rods are 
fixed all around the room close to the 
ceiling, from which the pictures are hung, 
but in small rooms it is often best not to 
show the lines or wires by which the pic- 
tures hang. This is done by nailing a 
strong cord across the back, about two 
inches below the top, and then suspend- 
ing it from two nails standing out but 
a little way from the wall. When there 
are several pictures in a room, the ordi- 
nary rule is, to have either the upper or 
lower edge of the frames in a line, on 
whichever side they may be hung. 



22 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



For bed-room furniture, mahogany, 
maple-wood, and oak, are the best and 
prettiest ; there are also very serviceable, 
well-polished, stained wood imitations of 
all these three ; and there are, too. very 
common and trumpery imitations, which 
turn shabby in a few months, and are 
generally badly put together, and do no 
service ; two good chaii-s are worth a do- 
zen of such rubbish. 

As a general rule we should advise 
avoidance of all cheap, showy furnishing 
establishments : likewise, unless you are 
wealthy, of all fashionable upholsterers. 
Patronize good, old-established houses of 
business. 

Never buy second-hand bedsteads, bed- 
ding, or hangings, unless you are well 
convinced that no more than you bargain 
for is included in the purchase. 

Iron and brass bedsteads, which can 
now be had of every size, form, and price, 
are far preferable, both as regards health, 
cleanliness, and lightness, to any others. 
It can scarcely be necessary to repeat 
how injurious to health are \evy small 
bed-rooms, and the same rule will apply 
to curtains which prevent the change of 
air, compelling us to breathe over again 
a portion of the air we have expired. 
The curtains should never enclose the 
bed. In low chambers, the bed should 
be near the floor, and the best place for 
it is at the middle of the side of the room, 
not touching the wall. 

Chintz or dimity are better for bed- 
furniture than damask, moreen, or any 
fabric containing wool ; they harbor less 
dust and are less liable to hide vermin. 

Three-ply carpets are best adapted for 
bed-rooms. Never place carpet under a 
bed, or you provide a resting-place for 
all the dust and flock which daily falls 
from the mattresses, and establish a nice 
hot-bed for fleas. Let the carpet be made 
in about three pieces, in order that it 
may be frequently taken up and beaten 
or shaken, and the floor scrubbed clean. 



Soft feather beds cause an undue 
warmth that weakens the action of the 
skin, and makes one susceptible to cold. 
A well stuffed feather bed, or a mattress, ' 
should be used. Good mattresses of 
wool, and wool and horsehair, iron bed- 
steads, and as little bed-furniture, cur- 
tains, &c., as may be, with a light quilt, 
are the best preventives against rising 
languid, inert, and unfit in the morning 
for the duties of the day. The covering 
should be light. A wide bed affords the 
luxury Franklin recommends, of moving 
from side to side, and a bed should have 
but one occupant. 

Bed-room and dressing-room chairs 
should be light. Couches, tables, dress- 
ing-glasses, wash-stands, &c., are necessa- 
ry articles, and the couches may be made 
of cheap materials, covered with chintz 
or brown holland. Bureaus and ward- 
robes will not be forgotten. Fireguards 
of painted wire are a security against 
accidents. Of the smaller articles in use 
a host might be enumerated ; but every- 
day need will suggest them. 

Never crowd a bed-room with furni- 
ture ; have that which is really useful 
and requisite, and no more ; and in fitting 
it up, always remember that illness often 
comes when we least expect it, and take 
care that your room shall possess such 
articles as will then be needful for com- 
fort and ease. 

A dining-room requires little furniture, 
but that little should be good and hand- 
some, and of mahogany. 

About furnishing drawing-rooms we 
can give no directions, so much dejiends 
upon taste. We would only reiterate 
our warning to beware of showy, veneer- 
ed, vamped-up furniture, or, when the 
room has had a fire in it some dozen times, 
you will be startled occasionally by re- 
ports as if small cannon were discharged, 
and on rising to investigate such alarm- 
ing noises, you will find, perhaps a crack 
across one door of the beautiful rosewood 



KITCHEN FURNITURE. 



23 



cabinet, or a gaping chasm in that lovely 
centre table, or a piece of carved work 
flown off the card table, showing only 
pine beneath ! 

Here, again, a little furniture tastefully 
arranged is far better than a crowd of 
ai'ticles ; besides, in one's course through 
life, furniture accumulates gradually, and 
if it is necessary to sell one thing in order 
to make way for another, that is a very 
losing business. 

We now come to the kitchens, where 
the wants are multifarious ; for here must 
be accumulated means of feeding, and 
cleaning, and keeping in order the whole 
house. Of course we can give no detailed 
account of what will be required, as all 
depends upon the extent and style of the 
household ; all we can do, therefore, is to 
make one or two general remarks on the 
durability of different wares 

As few copper cooking utensils as pos- 
sible should be had, and those few should 
be most thoroughly tinned in the inside, 
and always carefblly cleaned and dried be- 
fore being put away. We prefer block tin 
to anything else for saucepans, pots, and 
kettles generally. Iron does not so quick- 
ly or plainly tell any tale of dirt or neg- 
lect ; cast iron is very brittle, and cannot 
be repaired when broken ; and copper is 
likely to harbor verdigris. A good dou- 
ble block tin saucepan should always 
have the cover, the handle, and the back, 
kept bright as silver ; and the top, spout, 
front, and handle of the kettle, should 
also be kept bright ; for besides that a 
polished surface maintains heat better 
than an uneven, blackened one, it looks 
wonderfully better ; and if the smoke is 
never allowed to gather on these parts, 
it is easy to keep the utensils as bright 
as they were at first. 

For stewpans, iron tinned on the inside 
is most useful. 

The ancients seem to have used lamps 
of various forms ; an improvement on 
torches, certainly, but a more simple con- 



trivance than candles, which in the twelfth 
century and afterwards, came into use 
throughout Europe. Wax, spermaceti, 
and tallow, with different kinds of oil for 
lamps of an improved fashion, are still in 
use. Spirit gas and camphene are cleanly 
substitutes, but extremely dangerous. 
The lighting of apartments by inflamma- 
ble gas is one of the most useful results 
of the investigations of modern science. 
It is said that Murdoch, an engineer, was 
the first to make this discovery available 
on an extensive scale. He commenced 
his experiments in 1792. 

Candlesticks for common house or 
kitchen use should be of tin or brass, and 
large enough to save grease spots. There 
is no wear in japan. 

Wooden bowls for washing glass and 
china, and block tin or zinc hand bowls 
will be fuund most serviceable. 

All utensils for the conveyance of wa- 
ter about a house should be of .metal, as 
water-cans of different sizes, hot-water 
ewers with covers, shaving mugs, &c., as 
thereby much breakage will be saved, and 
these, if bought good at first, will, with 
ordinary care, last a very long time. The 
same remark applies to foot-baths. Very 
pretty toilet sets for the wash-stand are 
also now made in zinc, and beautifully 
painted or japanned. 

Sarcophagus and other extraordinarily 
shaped coal-scuttles, are to be avoided as 
most troublesome and awkward affairs, 
out of which it is next to impossible to 
extract coal conveniently. 

Soyer gives the following list of kitchen 
articles for a family of six. 

Eight copper stewpans, two larger ones, 
holding one gallon and a half, and the 
next one gallon, the others smaller by 
degrees to one pint ; one oval fish-kettle, 
holding about one gallon and a half; one 
middle-sized braising-pan ; one preserv- 
ing-pan; one round bowl for beating 
whites of eggs ; two saute- pans ; one ome- 
lette-pan ; one frying-pan ; one bain-ma- 



24 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



rie ; six saucepans for sauces ; one middle- 
sized tin pie-mould ; two tin jelly-moulds ; 
one tin flanc mould for fruit ; one freezing- 
pot, with every requisite; two baking- 
sheets ; one gridiron ; one small salaman- 
der; one colander-spoon; one bottle-jack ; 
two spits ; one dripping-pan ; one screen ; 
one sugar-pan; two soup-ladles; eight 
copper spoons, two of them colanders ; 
two wire baskets ; one wire sieve ; two 
hair sieves ; twenty -four tartlet-pans ; 
two tammies; one jelly-bag; twelve 
wooden spoons ; two paste-brushes ; one 
pair of scissors; two kitchen knives; 
six larding-needles ; one packing-needle ; 
one box of vegetable-cutters ; one box of 
paste-cutters ; one meat-saw ; one cutlet 
chopper; one meat chopper; six meat- 
hooks, tinned; one rolling-pin ; eight 
kitchen basins ; six china pie-dishes ; six 
earthen bowls for soups and gravies ; four 
kitchen table-cloths; eighteen rubbers; 
twelve fish-napkins ; six pudding-cloths ; 
four round towels. 



CHAPTER IV. 

With regard to all those articles 
which fall under the general denomina- 
tion of "plate," we should advise that 
all imitations be avoided; let those 
who cannot afford silver be content to 
use simple metal, which does not pretend 
to be more than it really is. All the im- 
itations of silver will, even with the ut- 
most care, betray themselves in a very 
short time, and have a would-be-genteel- 
if-I- could sort of air, which is ten thou- 
sand times more ridiculous than the plain- 
est of all materials ; besides, the money 
they cost would purchase a few real arti- 
cles, which are always worth their weight 
in silver, whereas the imitations have 
only a nominal value, and lose even that 
as they become discolored and dull. 

Metal tea and coffee pots may be had 
very good, and in handsome patterns, 



and are far more durable than china, 
drawing better, and retaining heat longer. 
The following is a list of the usual arti- 
cles in silver required to furnish the 
table. 



Dishes and covers. 
Table knives and forks. 
Dessert knives and forks. 
Table spoons. 
Dessert spoons. 
Gravy spoons. 
Soup ladles. 
Sauce ladles. 
Salt spoons, with gilt 

bowls. 
Fish slice. 
Trays and waiters. 
Bread baskets. 
Cako baskets. 
Decanter stands. 
Decanter labels. 
Liqueur and bottle stands. 
Cruet frames. 
Egg frames. 



Asparagns tongs. 
Cheese scoops. 
Knife rests. 
Nut crackers. 
Grape scissors. 
Tea urns. 
Coffee urns. 
Tea pots. 
Coft'ee iilterers. 
Sugar basin. 
Cream ewers. 
Sugar tongs. 
Tea spoons. 
Toast racks. 
Butter coolers. 
Snuffer trays. 
SnuflFers. 
Candlesticks. 



Cheap cutlery is mistaken economy. 
Good knives and forks will, with ordina- 
ry care, last for years ; common ones have 
no wear in them, and never can be made 
to cut well. 

Crockery, china, and glass, we need 
say little about, for they may be had at 
all prices and of all qualities. The mould 
ed or cast glass looks as well as cut glass, 
if not placed in contrast with it, and 
wears as long, and costs considerably less. 
For dishes, pitchers, butter-coolers, &c., 
we should always use it ; decanters, wine- 
glasses, and tumblers, do not look so well 
in it. 

As regards ornamental china, or glass, 
or what not, little can be said, these things 
being so much matters of taste ; but it is 
better to have but one, and that one real- 
ly handsome and good, than a crowd of 
cheap, showy trifles ; besides, these are 
things which gradually accumulate, and 
therefore it is always better to devote 
the money in hand to necessary articles, 
and leave the more ornamental ones for 
after consideration. A good clock for 
the kitchen, and a handsome one for the 
drawing-room, are useful and necessary 
things, especially the former. 

In household linen, again, it is false 



LINEN AND PLATE. 



25 



economy to buy common or cheap mate- 
rials. For sheets, linen, cotton, and 
Swiss twilled calico are used ; these sub- 
stances are now woven wide enough to 
render a seam unnecessary, and all we 
have to do is to measure the width of 
the beds and allow an extra half yard ; 
the ordinary length of a sheet is three 
yards and a half. The pillow cases must 
be of the same material as the sheets. 
Marseilles quilts are too heavy to be 
beneficial to health. Any industrious 
housewife may knit very serviceable and 
pretty counterpanes in squares or shell- 
shaped pieces, during those periods when 
she is chatting, or between the lights, or 
at hours when she would otherwise most 
probably be doing nothing. It is for 
such useful purposes as these we value 
knitting, crochet, &c., for they can be 
made the means of economy and useful- 
ness, instead of being, as they too often 
are, employed on useless expensive trifles. 

The most durable sort of linen for 
sheeting is the Russian, German, or Irish 
fabric, a good stock of which should be 
laid in to avoid the necessity of frequent 
or irregular washing. 

An inventory of furniture is given by 
Soyer as follows : — 

Twelve pairs of sheets ; ten ditto pil- 
low -cases ; three dozen napkins ; two 
dozen and a half various-sized table- 
cloths, including breakfast, dinner, &c. ; 
six servants' table-cloths ; three dozen 
towels ; six round towels ; three dozen 
kitchen rubbers ; two dozen napkins for 
fish, vegetables, and fruits ; six pudding- 
cloths ; two dozen damask d'oylies ; one 
dozen BerUn wool ditto. I also have 
occasionally in the wash the cover of 
the carpet, the anti-macassars, wliich I 
have knitted at my leisure, and the 
netted window curtains. Of glass and 
china, I have the following ; they are 
counted every month, and the broken 
ones replaced : — three dozen wine-glass- 



es ; two dozen champagne ditto : two doz- 
en claret ditto ; three dozen goblets ; six 
water caraffies ; six decanters ; one liqueur- 
stand ; twelve liqueur-glasses ; two glass 
pitchers ; one celery-glass ; one ti'ifle- 
bowl ; eight dessert-dishes. China: one 
full dinner service ; one common set for 
kitchen ; one common tea service for 
kitchen ; one good tea service ; one break- 
fast service ; one good dessert service. 

The following is my list of plate: — 
three dozen prongs ; two ditto table- 
spoons ; one and a half ditto dessert- 
spoons; one and a half ditto dessert- 
forks ; two ditto tea-spoons ; six salt- 
spoons ; one cheese-knife ; four butter- 
knives ; one asparagus-tongs ; two sugar- 
tongs ; two soup'ladles ; four sauce-la- 
dles ; two gravy-spoons ; two sugar-la- 
dles ; two salvers ; one bread-basket ; 
four candlesticks ; one hot-water dish for 
haunch of mutton. 

Table-cloths, tray-cloths, and dinner 
napkins will of course come under the 
category of " linen," and can be obtained at 
very reasonable prices compared with what 
they were twenty years since. Towels, 
too, are included in this list. In the case 
of chamber towels, again, comes diversity 
of opinion ; some preferring a soft, others 
a hard, some a rough, and some a smooth 
towel ; damask and diaper are not soft 
enough for some delicate skins. For our 
own part we like towels which administer 
a certain amount of friction to the skin, 
and all medical men agree that this is re- 
quisite to health. For the kitchen, round 
towels, tea-cloths, and glass-cloths, will 
be required, as well as dusters, pudding- 
cloths, knife-cloths, house-cloths, and 
flannels for cleaning. These will have to 
be purchased at the same time by young 
housekeepers newly furnishing, who 
" have no rags — poor things," and there- 
fore may as well be mentioned here. 
Old sheets make good glass cloths; old 
table-cloths make nice soft towels; all 



26 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



dresses of cotton, or old dress-linings, will 
serve for dusters, and old blankets for 
house-flannels. 

There are also needed toilet-covers for 
chamber tables, and chests of dravrers, 
&c., carpet covers, muslin for chamber 
window-curtains, muslin for drapery for 
the toilet-table, coirse sheeting for dust- 
ing-sheets to cover the beds or drawing- 
room furniture when sweeping and clean- 
ing ; a yet coarser sheet to lay down in 
front of the stoves when they are being 
cleaned ; chamois leathers for cleaning 
the plate, brass, steel, and windows ; and 
bags for the best brooms. 

Then we come to brushes, and their 
name is legion. Oh, this furnishing a 
house is a serious aflair ! a carpet-broom. 
a short-handled one for the stair carpets, 
a hair-broom for the bed-rooms, and 
another for the passages and kitchens; 
feather-brushes, dusting-brushes, stove- 
brushes, hearth-brushes, shoe-brushes, 
plate-brushes, paste-brushes, clothes- 
brushes, a hat-brush, and a table-brush 
to remove the crumbs from the table- 
cloth, are all needed; and these should 
be bought at a good warehouse, and of 
good quality, if we would have them do 
us service, and not fall to pieces, or lose 
their hair, as soon as they are fairly 
brought into use. 

There are many items yet unmention- 
ed, but it will not be requisite for us to 
waste our time, or that of our readers, by 
enumerating them all seriatim ; we will 
therefore proceed to other matters. 



CHAPTER V 

Supposing now that we have our 
house, and it is furnished, the next 
thing to determine is how many ser- 
vants can be aflbrded. Must we be con- 
tent with one, a " general house-ser- 
vant ; " or can we aflFord a cook and 



housemaid, or even aspire to the gen- 
tility of a man-servant or a butler 1 

The expenses must be determined by 
the sum which can, without incurring 
debts or living too closely up to one's in- 
come, be devoted to " housekeeping," im- 
der which head we include rent, taxes, 
wages, and every outlay appertaining to 
the house. Now, in reckoning the ex- 
penses of a servant, the question of wages 
is not the only one to be considered; 
there is the board and washing; and 
$100, exclusive of wages, is the lowest 
at which the keep of each servant can be 
estimated. 

In hiring servants always be particular 
in inquiring their character, and, if possi- 
ble, learn something of the people with 
whom they have lived ; let all stipula- 
tions as to wages, extras, holidays, and 
such matters, be clearly specified and 
rightly understood. 

The greatest trouble in housekeepmg 
is the difficult}- of procuring and retaining 
good servants. In some parts of the 
world this difficulty is not realized ; 
their servants having been trained for 
the labor allotted to them, and being 
contented and happy in their condition 
without aspirations after change. But 
in America, both in the city and 
country, the case is different ; too often 
men and women look upon service 
as degrading to them, and will prefer 
any hardship or privation to engaging 
in it as a business. Those who do so for 
a time, are usually tormented with jealous 
fears that their dignity will be infringed 
on, or are found neither qualified nor 
trustworthy. Housekeepers are mainly 
dependent on the Irish and German emi- 
grants, who as a rule are utterly ignorant 
of household service, and have to be 
taught every thing ; often receiving Mages 
for months before they begin to make 
themselves useful. By the time they 
can be trusted to do the work, they are 
corrupted by intercourse with other ser- 



SERVANTS. 



27 



vants, or persons who prompt them to 
make exactions on your time for visiting 
their numerous relatives from the old 
country, as well as to fill your kitchen 
with strangers, till the annoyance be- 
comes intolerable. A complaint on this 
scoi'C from the employers is followed by 
an outbreak of insolence, and the abrupt 
departure of the servant you have taken 
such pains to teach ; — and so unusual is 
it 'to find one who knows any thing — 
that she will readily get another place, 
perhaps with one of your neighbors who 
has envied you her possession. 

An English lady gave this accQunt of 
the progress of a favorite — " The first 
year she was a good servant ; the second 
an indulgent mistress ; the third an in- 
tolerable tyrant." , 

A good maxim is to select servants not 
j-ounger than thirty ; they are, as a rule, 
less fond of change, and better satisfied 
when really comfortable. But change is 
the order of things in the United States. 

Respecting servants, there are a few 
things which cannot be too strongly 
urged ; one is, never to retain a cook who 
is not fond of her occupation ; for unless 
she take pleasure in her art, she cannot 
be depended upon for accuracy in the 
preparation of dishes with which she is 
well acquainted, and will not easily be 
induced to acquire any thing new. She 
also must possess a natural regard for 
cleanliness, or all the pains in the world 
will never render her cleanly: where 
dirty habits are manifested, dismissal 
should follow, for in almost every in- 
stance they will be found incurable. 
Another point of main importance is her 
tewftr ; for if that be not good, she will 
be disinclined to receive instructions, 
and, if found fault with, may, out of 
pique, spoil a dinner; whereas a good- 
humored, intelligent servant, when made 
acquainted with the habits of the house, 
and equal to her common duties, will 
hardly fail of success when called upon 



by her mistress to try any of those re- 
ceipts which she has not already used. 

The low character of servants heard of 
at common intelligence offices has caused 
such places to be held in small esteem ; 
for their recommendations can in no case 
be depended on. There are institutions 
in Great Britain which have for their 
object the security of housekeepers from 
the evils of disreputable and dishonest 
inmates. The officials are so minute in 
their inquiries into character, as to pre- 
clude the necessity of those who hire 
from their office taking any trouble 
themselves in the business. Servants 
whose chai'acters will not bear the strict^ 
est investigation will scarcely apply to 
such institutions. They ai-e sorely need- 
ed in this country. 

It may be curious to see the list of ser- 
vants which form the household of a 
British nobleman of high rank, or a 
wealthy citizen, who keeps from twenty 
to thirty domestics. 

Housekeeper. 

A lady's maid for each grown lady bf the family. 

Cook. 

Upper housemaid. 

Laundry maid. 

Under housemaid. 

Under laundry maid. 

Still room maid. 

Kitchen maid. 

Scullion. 

(To this establishment that of the nursery is added.) 

Men. 

House steward. 

Groom of the chamber. 

Valet to each gentleman in the family. 

Man cook. 

Butler. 

Gentleman's footman. 

Lady's footman. 

Under butler. 

Gentleman's coachman. 

Lady's coachman. 

Couriers. Outriders. 

Grooms, in number according to the stud. 

Under servants. Errand boys. 

Steward's boy. 

In the United States so many servants 

are rarely kept in one family, even among 

millionnaires, or in the Southern States ; 



28 



THE PKACTIOAL HOUSEKEEPER, 



where formerly it was customary for each 
member of the family to have a separate 
attendant. An extensive establishment 
would perhaps number a coachman, 
groom, porter, footman, gardener, butler, 
and perhaps a valet and French cook ; 
the female servants consisting of a house- 
keeper, cook, sculhon, lady's maid, cham- 
bermaid, lauudrymaid, nurse, and one or 
more maids-of-all-work. Indeed the 
most wealthy families keep less than 
half this number ; and the average not 
more than three women and one man- 
servant. Those of slender income are 
content with ^one for "general house- 
work." 

In all large establishments in England 
the men and women servants, in the in- 
tervals of their employments, are never 
allowed to sit in the same roQm, but 
have their separate places of resort, as- 
sembling together only at dinner and 
supper. It is the duty of the steward 
and housekeeper to see this regulation 
observed. 

In servants generally we look for the 
essential qualities of integrity, sobriety, 
cleanliness, and general propriety in 
manner, with knowledge of their duties 
in the departments they profess to un- 
derstand. A glance at some reprehen- 
sible practices among them may be use- 
ful, as every instance of pilfering and 
trickery accumulates odium on the whole 
class. One of the chief anxieties of 
housekeeping is the apprehension of the 
dishonesty of those who are under our 
roof and receiving bread from our hands ; 
and suspicion, for which there is often 
just cause, injures both the employer 
and the employed. Cooks have been 
found to dispose of provisions in other 
ways than for the use of the family 
they serve. Presents are sometimes 
demanded by servants from the trades- 
people dealt with by the master. The 
so-called "honor," which prevents a ser- 
vant from exposing the frauds and mis- 



conduct going on among others, is but 
another name for deception and dishon- 
esty. The servant who knows of frauds 
and is silent, becomes an accomplice. 

Though it is very disagreeable to sus- 
pect any one's honesty, it is yet prudent 
to weigh meat, sugar, &c., when brought 
in, and to compare the weight with the 
charge. Scales should be placed in the 
kitchen, near the door used by the 
tradespeople. The knowledge of such 
things as weights and scales being in 
use, will operate as a check to any petty 
fraud which might otherwise be contem- 
plated. 

In large establishments abroad the 
servants have sometimes an allowance of 
food, or are kept on board wages. The 
former system prevails on plantations at 
the South, among field laborers only ; 
the servants in families, as in the North- 
ern States, taking their meals immediate- 
ly after, and on the remains of the family 
meals. 

The perquisites of servants are, in 
many cases, so many encroachments on 
the property of their employers, who ta- 
citly allow, while they in principle con- 
demn the practice. There is no doubt 
that perquisites tend to corrupt the 
morals of domestics, placing their own 
interests in opposition to those of others, 
and offering temptation against which 
their integrity is not always proof. 
Among these objectionable customs, one 
that particularly calls for attention as an 
odious kind of taxation, is the practice of 
servants receiving vails, or presents in 
money, from visitors. It is a species of 
bribery for services which ought to be 
performed without it, and tends to make 
servants less attentive to those who can- 
not give them great pecuniary rewards. 
This custom has grown into disuse in 
England, and most highly respectable 
families make it a condition in hiring 
their servants, that they shall accept no 
such gifts, but when they are offered 



PKESENTS TO 8EEVANT8. 



29 



shall iuform the visitor that it is con- 
trary to the rule of the housS to take 
them. It was formerly so usual in ho- 
tels in the United States for the attend- 
ants to expect gifts from the guests, 
that one could not obtain any service 
without it. I knew a party of travellers 
visiting Niagara, to leave the dinmg- 
room, imable to obtain any thing to eat, 
the waiters not attending to them. One 
who had been longer in the house, in- 
formed them they would not be served 
unless each person gave fifty cents to 
one of the waiters — who, in fact, were 
paid no wages, but allowed to extract all 
they could from travellers ! This is 
downright swindling on the part of hotel 
proprietors, and no respectable landlord 
now permits such impositions. In all 
the first-class hotels in our cities, per- 
sons should be particularly requested to 
give no fees to servants. The charges 
per day at hotels certainly ought to 
cover ordinary attendance ; extra ser- 
vices may be paid for. But as the cus- 
tom still prevails more or less among 
many travellers to give gratuities to ser- 
vants, proprietors of public houses ought 
to be the more resolute in abolishing a 
practice tending to produce murmuring, 
discontent, and neglect of duties among 
their domestics. The caution should be 
inserted among the printed rules of the 
establishment, and the servant discharged 
who is known to receive any thing in 
this way. 

Still more onerous and odious is the 
custom that inflicts a tax upon visitors 
in private families, in violation of the 
eacred obligations of hospitality. Such 
a burden is this felt to be, that many 
are compelled to refuse invitations to the 
houses of their friends on account of it. 
A lady friend of ours informed us that 
the expense of a short visit to one of her 
neighbors was made, by this necessity, 
to exceed what she would have paid at 
the highest rate of hotel fare. We foimd 



this the case on spending a day or so in a 
very large establishment at the invitation 
of the owner ; each servant on the premi- 
ses expecting gratuities. They learn, of 
course, to estimate the worth or standing 
of a guest by the amount bestowed on 
them, and frequently to treat with inso- 
lence or contempt those who cannot give 
so much. A 'help" in New Jersey^ 
was highly indignant at receiving a pres- 
ent of a mousseline de laine dress instead 
of a silk one, and declared she would not 
have it made up. We knew of another 
lady who emptied her purse to give five 
dollars each to several flaunting girls in 
the house where she was staying ; though 
she was obliged to deny herself many 
things for want of the money. " If you 
do not give them something very elegant, 
they will make fun of you ; nothing sim- 
ple will please them ; " said another lady 
when consulted on the subject. What a 
motive for liberality ! 

There are very few who have moral 
courage enough to be independent in such 
things, even though their charities have 
to be stinted in consequence ; especially 
when it is known that the mistress fre 
quently asks her servants what they re- 
ceived from her guests, and even draws 
conclusions founded on their information ! 
So at the risk of inconvenience or impov- 
erishment, the tax must be paid ; though 
as a rule it is always paid with secret 
dissatisfaction. What an insult to the 
name of hospitality is this ! 

The prevailing motive for this kind of 
liberality is not the charity which dehght- 
eth in giving — but a selfish fear of being 
thought penurious by one's friends, or of 
being ridiculed by saucy servants. We 
do not remember a single instance in 
which the custom, considered imperative, 
when mentioned at all. has not been men- 
tioned with condemnation. It should be 
utterly and forever abolished. The mis- 
tress, in hiring a domestic, should make 
known her invariable rule that such 



30 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



things are not to be allowed, and should 
let it be known among all her friends. 

We do not object to the largest kind 
of liberality in giving. The poor and 
needy have claims that meet us at every 
turn ; and the most rigid self-denial to 
satisfy their just demands, is commenda- 
ble. It is an excellent rule — " My super- 
fluity must give way to my neighbor's 
convenience ; my convenience to his ne- 
cessity ; my necessity to his destitution." 
In instances where our regard is attract- 
ed by a kind and faithful domestic in a 
friend's family, or where circumstances 
would render a gift peculiarly acceptable, 
it is pleasant to give and right to receive. 
We object to the system which makes 
present- giving compulsory without re- 
gard to the feelings or means of the do- 
nor, or the necessities of the receiver. 
And what well-bred lady who invites her 
friends for the pleasure of their society, 
would willingly have them feel under the 
necessity of putting themselves to incon- 
venience to give large fees to her servants, 
already well paid for the trifling services 
they render ? 

The custom which we have understood 
is actually prevalent in some places, of 
visitors " making up in presents " the ex- 
pense incurred by their friends in hospi- 
tably entertaining them, — is certainly 
" better honored in the breach than the 
observance." What hospitahty can there 
be, when an equivalent is ofiiered and re- 
ceived ? It would be more fair and open 
to make the bargain regularly in dollars 
and cents. The indirect exaction of com- 
pensation in this way, frequently beyond 
what could reasonably be charged, appears 
to us to be speculation without the s. 
Yet we occasionally hear of this as ex- 
pected from visitors. A lady in the States 
once said to her guest : " I know you 
will want to make me .some nice present 
before you go away ; I will tell you what 
I would like : &c." A lady from the 
country who staid a fortnight with a 



city friend, left money when she went 
away to purchase " some sort of a present." 
All we have to say of this and every oth- 
er practice tending to make gifts (which 
should be free as the love that ought alone 
to prompt them) in the slightest degree 
compulsory, i.s, that it is wrong, and en- 
tirely subversive of true friendship. 

To return to our subject. It is in vain 
that societies are formed for the encour- 
agement of faithful domestics, by giving 
premiums and high testimonials to those 
who serve a reasonable time in the same 
family. '1 hese last are not valued, where 
a choice of places can be had without 
them, and the roving disposition is fos- 
tered by the notion of independence and 
tlie certainty of being well paid for doing 
as one pleases. 

The only protection to housekeepers 
from this endless source of discomfort, is 
to be found in correcting the mistaken 
notion among American girls that a place 
in domestic service is less honorable than 
the severer toils of seamstresses, binders, 
shopkeepers, or milliners' workwomen. 
If they could be persuaded, instead of 
wasting awaj^ their lives in health-de- 
stroying needlework, miserably paid for 
by speculators in female servitude, — to 
engage in the active and varied duties of 
domestics, secure of a good home and 
abundant wages — a new era would com- 
mence for American housewives. 

Something might be done towards this 
end by regulating the hours devoted to 
household employments, in such a way 
as to leave a portion of the day for the 
girl's own time, which she is at liberty 
to employ as she pleases; and by en- 
couraging her to use it in the acquire- 
ment of useful knowledge. " It requires 
a refined mind to dust properly ; " and 
the cultivation of intellect will not be 
thrown away in any department. Let 
the humiliation of servitude be thus 
taken away, and persons who have seen 
better days will engage in the occupa- 



DUTIES OF THE MISTRESS. 



31 



tion. We would recommend the estab- 
lishment of an Association in our large 
cities — to find suitable places for persons 
of a respectable class, stipulate for suit- 
able privileges, and persuade them to this 
easy mode of earning a livelihood. The 
gratitude of the community would be due 
to such an institution. 



CHAPTER VI. 

As a country cannot be governed with- 
out laws, neither can a household ; and 
the mistress should be as absolute in her 
own house as a sovereign in her do- 
minions. Order and regularity are the 
key-stones to comfort, and our housewife 
must carefully arrange and chgest her 
scheme of government in the first place, 
and be always alive to any modifications 
which emergencies, or prudence, or cir- 
cumstances, may call for. And she must 
understand what she is about, or her 
scheme will be worthless ; she must be 
able to teach, nay, to demonstrate upon 
occasions ; she must be regular in her 
own habits if she would have those about 
her regular, neat in all that concerns her- 
self, attentive to the details of housekeep- 
ing, economical, just, active, and consider- 
ate. She must neither hold the reins 
of government loosely and negligently, 
nor too stei'iily, but must quietly exercise 
a general and regular surveillance over 
every part of her house and household ; 
and this can be done without tyranny, 
without vexatious interference, or exhi- 
bitions of temper. Let the servants ouce 
feel that this is her habit, and they will 
act accordingly ; and if the place is good, 
conduct themselves so as to endeavor to 
please and keep it. And it is the inter- 
est, as well as duty, of every mistress, to 
make her servants comfortable ; to see 
that they have a sufficiency of good food, 
that they are well lodged ; that they have 



time to mend and wash their own clothes, 
nay, that they know how to do so, and 
do it. 

" Do not send your clothes home to 
your mother to wash and mend," said a 
friend of ours to a new servant ; " you 
will have plenty of time to arrange them 
yourself." 

" Please, mum, I don't know how ! " 
replied the girl. 

" Well, Mary, you shall be taught, 
then, for it is time you did know how ! " 

"But please, mum, I don't want to 
learn ! " said the girl ; and learn she 
would not, for the foolish indulgence 
which leads mothers to spare their chil- 
dren all occupations they do not like, is 
as prevalent among the poorer as among 
other classes. 

To return : a mistress need never for- 
get herself, nor weaken her authority, 
nor show any false indulgence^ but in 
numerous ways she will have the op- 
portunity of endeavoring to guide, to 
advise, and to benefit those dependent 
upon her ; but she must be patient, if she 
would really do good. She must remem- 
ber what may have been the early edu- 
cation, the trials and temptations, the 
experiences of those girls, and must not 
expect too much from them. As we 
have before said, she must hold the reins 
of government with a firm haiwl; she 
must not overlook neglect of duties, ir- 
regularities of conduct, want of order or 
cleanliness, or inattention to her com- 
mands ; but she can notice these things 
quietly, without loss of temper, and 
when alone with the offender ; and she 
can also notice and praise neatness, at- 
tention, obedience, and such like, and not 
accept the good as mere matters of course, 
and only mark the evil. She should like- 
wise endeavor to induce her servant, by 
example and precept, to be regular in at- 
tendance on religious worship, and make 
Sunday to them in some degree a day of 
rest, instead of one of extra cooking and 



82 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



work, and should have a supply of those 
excellent little works to lend them, which 
are published by the religious societies. 
"While she inculcates economy in things 
relating to herself, she should try to in- 
duce them to save ; to put by regularly a 
certain portion of their wages, and not 
be extravagant in clothes, but make and 
mend their things properly. 

There is little saved by giving paltry 
wages ; a useful servant will not accept 
them, and those who do, cannot clothe 
themselves respectably, and will too often 
eke out their means by peculation. It is 
well to begin with moderate wages, and 
promise an annual increase, which pro- 
mise both induces a wish to please, and 
takes away one great excuse for leaving, 
viz., a desire of " bettering herself." 
Even in the present "degenerate age," 
attached servants are to be found, and 
may be created. We are all more or less 
human, and human affections and home 
ties act upon us ; we learn to love those 
who are kind, courteous, and consider- 
ate ; we value the notice and regard of 
our superiors, and we take a certain 
pride in deserving their good opinion. 
The fault lies in that antagonism of 
classes, that want of understanding each 
other, that forgetfulness that all are fel- 
low-creatures, that tendency to regard 
each otlier as mutual enemies to be con- 
quered or circumvented. 

But we will pass to another topic. 
The amount of the income will deter- 
mine what sum can be allowed per an- 
num for housekeeping ; for besides, there 
will be clothing expenses to be provided 
for, sundries of various kinds, expenses 
of illness, on which we must aU reckon, 
and there ought to be a reserve fund 
regularly laid by to provide for any un- 
foreseen emergency, or form the "nest 
egg" of a provision for a rising family. 
Well, suppose the sum determined ! the 
next question is, how to apportion it so 
as to combine economy with comfort, and 



secure a regular and uniform style of 
living ; not luxuries to-day and parsimony 
to-morrow. Now, how can our young 
housekeeper do this, if she knows little 
or nothing of the prices of provisions ; if 
she scarcely remembers when things are 
in season and may be purchased at a I'ea- 
sonable rate, and when they are actual 
extravagances ; if she has no idea what 
quantity of this or that ought to be con- 
sumed, by a family of a certain size, per 
week or per month ; and, above all, if 
she has little aptitude for domestic man- 
agement, and considerable contempt for 
all such vulgar details ? Few who have 
read that truthful sketch of Dickens, the 
" child-wife," will forget the pretty help- 
lessness of Dora ; but, although this 
reads well in a novel, very few such girls, 
and there are many of them, will meet 
with husbands as indulgent; for men 
like to see their home well ordered, and 
to feel the comforts of good manage- 
ment. Every girl, or almost every girl, 
looks upon marriage as the great aim 
and end of her existence ; but unfortu- 
nately, she regards it, as it is treated in 
novels, as the concluding chapter, the en- 
trance to that " and-lived-happily-ever- 
after " state of bliss which we read of in 
fairy tales. And certainly it is the en- 
trance to a new life, though not one so 
rose-colored as she dreamed ; it takes 
her from the home where she has been 
nurtured, cared for, provided for, perhaps 
petted and indulged, and places her where 
she will have to be the presiding intelli- 
gence ; where all will look to her for 
guidance and instruction; where her 
happiness and comfort, and that of her 
husband, will depend upon how she is 
qualified to fulfil the duties she has un- 
dertaken. Mothers, wislung to have 
your daughters well married, how have 
you prepared them for the duties you 
well know they will have to perform? 
Perhaps you were domestically educated, 
for our grandmothers were more careful 



HOUSEKEEPING ACCOUNTS. 



33 



in their generation, and thought it no de- 
gradation to be good housewives ! Per- 
haps you have had to fight your way 
through a host of painful lessons, of an- 
noyances, losses, and domestic worries. 
Do you never look back upon that miser- 
able time, and feel anxious to spare your 
children a similar probation ? Life, even 
at its best, has enough of painful experi- 
ences, without our doubling them by 
neglecting to teach each individual, in 
proper time, the things she will be ex- 
pected to know when she reaches woman's 
estate. 

Every housekeeper should keep a strict 
account of all her expenditures ; should 
see that each bill is receipted when paid ; 
should file all receipts, and keep them for a 
year at least — we should rather say two 
or three. All housekeeping bills should 
be paid every week, for it is easier to pay 
small sums than large ones ; and besides, 
the correctness of the bills can then be 
ascertained. The mistress should look 
over each one herself, and thus she will 
detect, and can check, any inaccuracy on 
the part of the tradesmen, or extrava- 
gance on the part of her servants. Should 
she be her own housekeeper, let her deal 
regularly with respectable tradesmen, for 
they will rarely risk losing a good 
customer by sending bad goods. Bar- 
gain-hunting is always perilous, even to 
good judges. Cheap tea, coffee, sugar, 
&c., are all adulterated ; cheap vegeta- 
bles and fruit are generally stale ; cheap 
meat is that which has been sent ready 
killed to the market, and therefore is by 
no means as fresh as might be wished ; 
and cheap poultry and fish are to be re- 
garded with very great suspicion. 

Those who have store-closets will find 
their advantage in purchasing some things 
wholesale. Candles should be bought 
in the latter part of summer, when they 
are usually cheaper, and a store laid in, 
for they improve by keeping. So does 



soap. Coal, too, should be ordered in 
July or August, and if there is cellarage, 
a stock for the winter laid in. Many 
groceries may be purchased in quantities 
at considerable saving. The same remark 
applies to bacon, butter, and cheese ; but 
unless there are good dry storerooms, 
these latter cannot be kept. It is use- 
less to make pickles or preserves unless 
the house is dry — in damp localities these 
things mildew and spoil ; nor are we sure 
that in small families it is economical to 
make them at all, they can be bought so 
reasonably. All stores should be kept 
by the mistress, and given out as re- 
quired. 

All good homekeepers will provide 
themselves with weights and scales, and 
thus be prepared to check the quantities 
of stores sent them by their tradespeople, 
who are as liable to make errors in 
weighing as in casting their bills. We 
cannot too particularly impress this upon 
the attention of our readers, as an essen- 
tial means of protecting themselves against 
errors in weight, whether arising from 
accident or design. Many heads of fami- 
lies are exceedingly particular about the 
price of their purchases, who are utterly 
regardless whether or not they have the 
weight they paid for. Tradesmen are 
aware of this trust reposed in them, and 
too often take advantage of it. Unlike 
the symbol of Justice, who, as she holds 
the scales in her hands, is blind to all 
partialities, some tradesmen (some es- 
pecially amongst the class who are 
purveyors to the poor) are too open-eyed 
to see that they descend in their own 
favor. 

In the realm which our housewife is to 
govern, order, cleanliness, punctuality, 
and economy must be the fundamental 
principles which, by precept and practice, 
she endeavors to enforce. It matters 
little whether her subjects are limited to 
a single maid-of-all-work, or general 



34 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 




Work Table. 

servant, as it is now the fashion to call 
this domestic, or whether she reign 
over two, three, or more " helps," still 
the principle must be the same ; a cer- 
tain ' routine of daily and weekly duties 
must be laid down, and it lies with the 
mistress to see that not only these are 
performed properly, but that all inciden- 
tal matters are likewise attended to. 
However wealthy a family may be, they 
are not willing that their houses and fur- 
niture should be injured by neglect or 
mismanagement. Money can enable a 
man to hire more domestics, but it cannot 
provide that these persons shall be clean- 
ly, diligent, trustworthy, and painstak- 
ing ; it cannot secure him from the conse- 
quences of their ignorance, their careless- 
ness, their extravagance. Nothing but 
the supervision of the mistress, or a good 
housekeeper, can do this. If, then, a rich 
man, who can pay the best wages, and 
hire the most experienced servants, finds 
still that he lacks something, how much 



more will one of moderate income or 
of limited means suffer, should he not 
find in his wife a housewife 1 

What I am now about to say, some of 
my readers may think perhaps out of 
place; nevertheless I shall say it. A 
woman cannot really do her duty as a 
wife, mother, or mistress of a family, 
unless she is fully sensible of the impor- 
tance of health, and gives to all sanitary 
measures their due attention. With loss 
of health come diminished powers of 
usefulness. Languor and delicacy in a 
wife may call forth the sympathies, but 
do not increase the comforts or happiness 
of a professional or business man ; neither 
do they render a woman more inclined 
for, or equal to, the performance of her 
part in domestic life. And too many of 
our young girls render themselves languid, 
feeble, and delicate, by inattention to the 
commonest requirements of human nature. 
The crying evil of small towns is usually 
the want of baths attached to houses, and 
the small size of bed-rooms ; now these 
are in general accepted as things whifch 
must be endured, and little or no attempt 
is made to palliate them. All medical 
men, however, agree that plentiful ablu- 
tions of the body with cold or tepid 
water, and a good supply of fresh air in 
every sleeping and sitting-room, do more 
to preserve health than all the drugs in 
the pharmacopoeia. And next to these 
come early rising, avoidance of late hours 
and crowded assemblies, regular exercise 
in the open air, attention to diet, and 
abstinence from pernicious viands, as 
pastry, sweetmeats, rich gravies, unripe 
fruit, &c. Pork, veal, and various kinds 
of vegetables can only be eaten sparingly 
and occasionally by some persons. Spir- 
its should only be used medicinally, that 
is to say, at times when common sense 
tells us they might be of benefit. To 
take them habitually is equivalent to 
slow poison. 

Besides the benefit a woman derives in 



IMPOETANCE OF HEALTH. 



35 



her health and person from attention to 
all matters relative to personal care, she 
will gain another in the effect of her 
example upon her dependants ; for we are 
all, to a certain extent, creatures of imita- 
tion, and prone to follow example, be it 
good or bad. Servants who see before 
them one who consistently practises the 
virtues of economy, regularity, personal 
cleanliness, and general neatness, will 
never run diametrically counter to all 
this, but will in some degree shape their 
conduct accordingly, while all the pre- 
cepts in the world, without practice, will 
but go in at one ear and out at the other. 

Where only one or two servants are 
kept, the mistress will do well not to 
leave her chamber before she has opened 
her windows, and laid the bed-clothes 
back over two chairs so as to insure the 
sheets and blankets, heated by contact 
with the body all night, being well aired 
and cooled. No bed should be made, or 
night-dress folded up, until it has been 
aired, and suffered thoroughly to cool for 
at least two hours. Nurseries should be 
aired while the children are at breakfast, 
and while they are taking their morning 
walk. Dining and drawing-rooms re- 
quire a current of fresh air passed through 
them at least once every day, to dislodge 
all the stale atmosphere tainted by the 
smell of food, flowers, &c., and by having 
been inhaled by those using the rooms. 
Many of our readers have doubtless been 
struck, on entering some houses, by the 
close, faint, unwholesome smell they, 
coming from the fresh air, at once per- 
ceive. Those who dwell in it habitually 
S,re not conscious of it. They dread the 
chill of fresh air, or the dust it will bring 
with it into theirs rooms ; and therefore 
shut it carefully out, and cherish in its 
stead a species of slow poison — a heavy 
atmosphere loaded with all sorts of per- 
nicious gases. 

Light, too, is another forbidden lux- 
ury in some houses. Heavy Venetian 



bliiKls jealously protect the delicate hues 
of the curtains and carpets from its in- 
fluence, and the inmates consequently 
fade instead of their upholstery ; for a 
human being can no more do without 
light than can a flower, and we only 
need place this latter in a cellar for a few- 
days, and we shall see how it will look. 
It must not, however, be supposed that 
wp would recklessly suffer the noonday 
sun to shine on our damask curtains or 
tapesti'ied carpets, or that we should 
open our windows when rain, hail, or 
snow beat full upon them ; all we wish 
to do is, to advise such a use of the 
choicest gifts of Providence, as health 
requires and common sense would dic- 
tate. 

Nor is it only with a view to exercis- 
ing a salutary influence upon her domes- 
tics and strengthening herself, that we 
would counsel our housewife to pay 
strict attention to all matters of sanitary 
importance. A female writer of some 
celebrity has said, " If before marriage, 
a woman has been deluded into the no- 
tion that a multiplicity of small ailments 
invested lier character with an interest- 
ing kind of delicacy, the sooner she be- 
comes well after marriage, the better for 
herself and all around her." 

Now we do not intend to assert that 
there are not many men who are un- 
wearied in their tenderness in time of 
illness ; but this we must say. that there 
are thousands more who " vote sickness 
a bore ; " who have little sympathy with, 
little tolerance for it ; who married to 
have a cheerful companion, not a droop- 
ing, languid invalid, to come home to ; 
and who soon begin to seek elsewhere 
that companionship and cheerfulness 
they have failed to find at home. And 
alas ! when a man's love has once been 
dimmed, or alienated from his wife, it 
never wholly recovers its lost lustre, but 
remains a mere mechanical matter of 
duty or honor, and too often not even 



36 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



that. Matrimony may bind a maa to 
his wife legally, but herself only can re- 
tain her empire over his heart ; and to 
do this, she will need even more than 
her former charms and attractions and 
fascinations, besides a vast variety of 
other attributes which her new position 
will require of her. 

Women little dream what they peril 
when, after marriage, they neglect the 
accomplishments, the tasteful dress and 
adornment, the charming coquetterie of 
manner, which enthralled the lover. 
They not only risk their happiness, for 
it depends on him, but they neglect what 
ought to be their highest ambition, that 
of proving how much dearer is the wife 
than the mistress, and of rendering his 
home a refuge from cares, a scene of 
tranquil happiness, of social enjoyment, 
and of real comfort. Milton is not ut- 
tering a merely poetical exclamation, but 
a great truth, when he says — 

" For nothing lovelier can be found 
In ■woman than to study household good, 
And good works in her husband to promote ; " 

for a woman who is true to herself will 
inevitably be the better angel of her hus- 
band. Contact with her true heart, her 
gentle pursuance of all her duties, and 
with her cheerful, rational, and earnest 
spirit, will restore the tone of his mind, 
defiled, saddened, rendered morbid, it 
may be, by contact with the outer world 
and all its chicanery, its worry and its 
debasing influences. Wisely are all 
things ordered, if we would not, by our 
follies, our impatience and self-seeking, 
derange them. Beautiful is the mission 
of woman, if she would but see it in all 
its holiness and brightness. 

Those who have a home which they 
can make happy, will not sigh for con- 
tact with the outer world, to be per- 
mitted to wrestle and contend among its 
fierce trials and the fiercer spirits that 
struggle there for daily bread ; or despise 



the peaceful path of domestic duty, 
which, although it has its trials, is yet 
in a great degree sheltered ; or reject the 
gentle ties of wife, mother, sister, to 
study some learned profession, and rush 
into those haunts and paths already too 
crowded with the sterner sex. Such 
must be the lot, nevertheless, of many 
women, whom necessitous circumstances 
have forced into an unnatural position. 

Our " model housewife " believes with 
us that we should endeavor a 

"Well ordered home, man's best delight, to make; 
And by submissive wisdom, modest skill, 
With every gentle, care-elading art, 
To raise the virtues, animate the bliss, 
And sweeten all the toils of human life ; 
This is true female dignity and praise." 

So turn we now again to more practical 
matters. 

There are few things more perplexing 
at first to young housewives than the 
momentous question of dinner. A social 
dinner party, and a quiet family dinner, 
require equal consideration. We once 
heard of an old bachelor who, to save 
himself the daily trouble of stating what 
he would have for dinner, drew up a 
programme of dinners for every day in 
the year, and handed it over to his 
housekeeper ; and a lady has lately pub- 
lished a pamphlet, entitled, " What shall 
we have for dinner, in order to save idle 
folks the trouble of thinking." 

Now, a good cookery book, a short 
walk round the region where the market- 
ing is done, and a knowledge of family 
likes and dislikes, will generally enable 
even a novice to arrange this important 
matter, at least so far as the ordering 
goes, the cooking being another consider- 
ation. Joints should always, when 
weather permits, be purchased fresh, and 
then hung as long as is deemed requisite 
to fit them for eating. A knowledge of 
the sauces and condiments appropriate to 
every dish, is a subject well worth atten- 
tion. The cooking of vegetables is an 



DIRECTION OF THE TABLE. 



37 



important point, and one in which we 
ma)^ derive much useful instruction from 
the French. Vegetables cannot be too 
fresh ; in large towns we can form no 
idea how little we know of the real fla- 
vor and delicacy of green vegetables, 
accustomed as we are to have them at 
least a day after they are cut. 

Fish should be chosen by touch and 
look. If it feels flabby, and looks pale 
about the gills, and dull about the eyes, 
it is to be avoided ; firmness of body, 
brightness and fulness of eyes, and ruddi- 
ness of the gills, are signs of freshness. 
Orabs and lobsters must be selected by 
weight, not size, and the olfactory organs 
employed to test their sweetness. 

We have already spoken of the desira- 
bleness of dealing regularly with respect- 
able people, but no rule is without its 
exception ; and those who are pretty 
good judges of articles of provision, may 
often obtain some variety by looking 
about them. Practice and habitual at- 
tention and observation, and the whole- 
some annoyance of one or two blunders, 
will soon give experience. 

We would advise that our housewife 
should see occasionally that all the cook- 
ing utensils are kept clean ; that there is 
no waste or extravagance, that the ends 
of loaves, spare bits of cut bread, bones 
of meat, cold vegetables, &c., are not 
recklessly thrown about. There are in 
every neighborhood only too many poor 
to be found, who will most gratefully re- 
ceive the scraps from the richer man's 
table ; and a little inquiry will always 
find some family on whom such odds and 
ends may well be bestowed. The tea- 
leaves should be regularly put by in some 
vessel, to be used in sweeping. 

Perhaps there are few things in which 
the respectability of a man is more 
immediately felt, than the style of din- 
ner to which he may accidentally bring 
home a visitor. Every one ought to hve 
according to his circumstances, and the 
3 



meal of the tradesman ought not to emu- 
late the entertainments of the higher 
classes ; but if merely two or three dish- 
es be well served, with the proper accom- 
paniments, the table-linen clean, the 
small sideboard neatly laid, and all that 
is necessary be at hand, the expectation 
of both the husband and friend will be 
gratified, because no interruption of the 
domestic arrangements will disturb their 
social intercourse. 

Hence the dii-ection of a table is no 
inconsiderable branch of a lady's concern, 
as it involves judgment in expenditure, 
respectability of appearance, and the com- 
fort of her husband, as well as of those 
who partake of their hospitality. Inat- 
tention to it is always inexcusable, and 
should be avoided for the lady's own 
sake, as it occasions a disagreeable degree 
of bustle and evident annoyance to her- 
self, which is never observable in a well- 
regulated establishment. In -doing the 
honors of her table, the mode of carving 
is also of importance, and will be treated 
of in a future chapter. 

The mode of covering the table differs 
in taste. It is not the multiplicity of 
things, but the choice, the dressing, and 
the neat, pleasing look of the whole, 
which give respectability to her t^o pre- 
sides. The table should be furnished 
with more than the necessar-y quantity 
of plate, or plated ware, and glass, to 
afibrd a certain appearance of elegance ; 
and if accompanied by a clean cloth and 
a neatly dressed attendant, it will show 
that the habits of the family are those of 
gentility. For a small party, or a t^te-d- 
tite, a dumb waiter is a convenient con- 
trivance, as it partly saves the attendance 
of servants. The cruets should be look- 
ed to and filled every day an hour before 
dinner ; and much trouble and irregular- 
ity are saved when there is company, if 
servants are accustomed to prepare the 
table and sideboard in similar order daily. 
Too many or too few dishes are extremes 



not uncommon: the former encumbering room well lighted, of comfortable tem- 
the dinner with a superfluity which par- peraturc, and well ventilated. The pleas- 
takes of vulgarity, whilst the latter has ure of eating a good dinner is greatly en- 
the appearance of poverty or penurious- hanced when comfort is studied, and 
mj>,g_ taste gratified. 




Servants should always be accustomed 
to lay the cloth and serve dinner as ncat- 
]j when the family is alone as when com- 
pany is expected ; they should likewise 
be taught to bring up and place on the 
table or sideboard everything likely to 
be required during the meal, and not 
have to leave the room repca'edly on 
trifling errands. The mistress should 
glance around to see that all is there; 
and if she perceives omissions, mention 
them before dinner commences. Servants 
should also be taught to wait at table 
without bustle or noise ; to remove plates, 
&c., without rattling them ; to open and 
close ^he doors gently; to lift covers 
from dishes so as not to let the drops of 
condensed steam fall on the table or those 
seated at it. If these things are ordina- 
rily in&istcd upon, the mistress of the 
house will not. when she gives a dinner 
party, sit on thorns, trembling lest some 
gaucherie be committed. 

Those who would give dinner parties, 
must, generally speaking, if their i.'image 
is small, hire a professed cook. A small., 
well cooked, well chosen dinner, is far 
preferable to a table crowded with dishes. 
Symmetrical arrangement of the dinner 
table, too, is a powciful adjunct. The 
silver should be bright, the glass spark- 
ling, the table-linen pure and snowy, the 




Vegetable Dish. 



The wines, if you give any, should be 
good ; it is better to give only one or two 
kinds, and let those be good, even though 
they be only old-fashioned port and sher- 




ry, than to aim at greater things, and set 
before the guest those " cheap and nasty " 
imitations of other vintages. 

Choose the company and arrange them 
as carefully as the dishes. Ill assorted 
guests are difficult to please, while per- 
sons who assimilate find additional zest 
in their social enjoyment. 



THE DINNER TABLE. 



39 




Vegetable Wanner. 

The dessert should be well selected, 
and more choice than plentiful. By choice, 




Plate Warmer. 

do not let us be understood to mean ex- 
travagant, consisting of fruits not yet in 




Cake Basket. 

season nor having their proper flavor, or 
of preserved fruits, or fancy confectionery. 
All these are prejudicial to health, and 

we cannot understand why people who Dish Cover. 

dine out should be tempted to eat indigest- old English plan of taking the top and 
ible things; why what ought to be a bottom of the table, instead of me and Mr. 
^ means of social enjoyment, should be | B. together at the side. 



made a matter of form, ostentation, and 
discomfort. Let the dessert consist of 
fine specimens of the fruits in season, 
backed in winter by a few dried fruits 
and biscuits. 




Fruit Dish. 
Soyer's housewife thus describes her 
dinner : — The first thing to be looked to 
is the lights ; these ought to be so placed 
as not to intercept the view of any per- 
son at the table, but at the same time they 
ought to be enough to show everything 
off to advantage. I prefer removing some 
of the lights from the table to the side- 
board when the cloth is removed, as the 
light after dinner ought to be more sub- 
dued. In laying the cloth, wc place it 
over the baize and remove it after dinner, 
as Mr. B. says he likes to see the mahog- 
any ; for when he asks a city friend to 
come and put his feet under his mahoga- 
ny, it looks rather foolish if he never sees 
it. I have, as you know, my table rath- 
er wide, that is, six feet, and I generally 
place a vase of flowers in the centre, as I 
thinkftheir freshness and odor Rdd great- 
ly to the appearance of the table, and ad- 
mit a flanc on each side. We prefer the 




40 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



" The cloth being laid with its proper 
side uppermost, I order a napkin, two 
knives, two prongs, two tablespoons, and 
two wineglasses to be placed for each per- 
son, a saltcellar between every other ; 
that being a condiment which every one 
uses, though often wrongly ; the cruet- 
frames and other requisites are kept on 
the sideboards. I then have the fish and 
soup served together ; the potatoes and 
sauce on the sideboard; I serving the 
soup, and Mr. B. the fish ; and often a lit- 
tle dish of fried fish, such as smelts, &c., 
to remove the soups. This gives me an 
opportunity of seeing that my guests are 
properly attended to, and also leisure to 
take wine with any gentleman who 
challenges me. During the time this 
course has been progressing, the cook 
has had time to dish up the removes nice 
and hot, and get all up close to the door, 
as I like as little time as possible to in- 
tervene in changing the dishes ; and 
these consist generally of variously 
dressed chickens, which I have before me, 
as this gives an opportunity for the gen- 
tleman on my right to display his gal- 
lantry ; Mr. B., who is a capital carver, 
either has a saddle or a haunch of mut- 
ton, or a quarter of lamb before him, the 
rest of the dishes consisting of a tongue 
and entrees. I select those most easy to 
carve, and also easy for the cook to pre- 
pare. This is a period of dinner^where 
a great deal depends upon the attendants ; 
they should know almost by the look 
what this lady or that gentleman requires, 
and what kind of vegetables to hand 
them ; a first-rate butler should be able 
to judge by the physiognomy to whom 
he should offer mint sauce with the 
lamb, and who prefers cayenne ; on their 
attention and hot plates depends the suc- 
cess of the substantial part of the dinner. 
" As soon as I see that all are served, 
and words are few in consequence of the 
organ which utters them being employed 
in another way, I give a look to the two 




Silver Skewer. 
servants which they understand, and im- 
mediately two rei)orts are heard — they 
are from two bottles of champagne, open- 
ed at the same time by the attendants, 
who have each a salver with six glasses 
on it; this takes but a short time to 
serve, and prepares the palate for the en- 
trees, which generally get praised; in- 
deed, my cook would think something 
was wrong if two of the dishes did not 
go down empty. By having the cham- 
pagne thus, I find it goes much further 
than if only one bottle was opened at the 
time, there being sufficient left in the 
bottles for a gentleman to challenge a 
lady to take champagne with him. If I 




have game I remove the top and bottom 
dishes with them, and make the sweets 
a separate course, taking care to have 
cold plates for the jelly, and having the 



EVENING PABTIES. 



41 



liquors handed round when the sweets 
are on the table ; one cheese I place op- 
posite Mr. B., and macaroni opposite my- 
self. In the dessert I generally introduce 
some new importation, such as bananas, 
sugar-cane, American lady apples, prickly 
pears, &c. ; these also give a subject for 
the gentlemen to talk about when the 
ladies have left, as free trade, colonial 
policy, &c. About half an hour after the 
dessert is on the table, and when I see 
that the conversation is becoming less 
general, I retire to the drawing-room; 
the servants then remove the used glass 
and plates, and Mr. B. introduces some 
of his choice claret or Burgundy in ice 
coolers." 




Wine Cooler. 

There are so many varieties of evening 
parties that no directions can be given 
respecting them. As a general rule, we 
would advise that they should be as sim- 
ple, unostentatious, and sociable, as pos- 
sible. Tt is the extravagance which has 
been introduced into these matters, the 
insane desire of outvying each other felt 
by individuals, which is the bar to real 
social enjoyment, and prevents us from 
being as lively a people as the French. 
Why cannot we meet to converse, have 
music, dance, or amuse ourselves in any 
rational way, and be content with light, 
simple refreshments, and a sincere wel- 
come ? Surely such reunions are more 
enjoyable than crowds, grand suppers, 
superb toilettes which are scarcely seen 
in the crush, and suffocating heat or cur- 
rents of cold air. Such assemblies upset 
the house of the party-giver for a week 



at least, weary and worry her, and are 
criticised most severely by all her " dear 
friends " who did not enjoy themselves, 
nor receive the attention they expected. 
In them all is most certainly " vanity and 
vexation of spirit ; " there is no pleasant 
converse, no .comfort, no intellectual en- 
joyment; weariness, lassitude, headache, 
and expense, are the only concomitants 
of such parties. May our "model house- 
wife " have courage to reject them alto^ 
gether. 




CHAPTER VII. 

Few persons would believe what a 
waste of money and property arises sim- 
ply from want of care. We cannot, of 
course, expect this carefulness from ser 
vants, from those who are often thought' 
less, inexperienced girls, coming from a 
home where there was little worthy of 
care, perhaps from a place, where there 
was no time to bestow due attention on 
the various duties. Few servants &tay 
long enough in a situation to become at- 
tached to, and, as it were, identified with 



42 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEE. 



it and itK belongings ; they are ever striv- 
ing to " better themselves," or, in other 
words, obtain higher wages. It matters 
not that thoy are comfortable, that they 
like the-ir employers ; that they are well- 
treated, and not ovei'-worked ; — should 
some acquaintance or relative be receiv- 
ing higlicr wages than they are getting, 
they will sacrifice all to "go and do like- 
wise ; " and too often not in order that 
they may contribute more to lay up a 
fund in case of illness or misfortune, but 
to be able to dress more smartly, or in- 
dulge in some favorite pleasure. All this 
is much to be regretted, as it too often 
entails loss of health, comfort, and res- 
pectability- on the young woman. But 
it is not this point from v.'hich we now 
have to regard it. It is the mistress, not 
the servant, whom we are addressing, and 
whom we would guard from the troubles 
which must befall her, if she, too, be care- 
less, if she does not know and see that 
her jiroperty is well managed .ind regu- 
laily and properly attended to. 

AYe have befoie said that no household 
knowledge can be deemed superfluous, or 
ought to come amiss to a woman, who is 
to be at the head of a house. Surelj^ she 
is not the less a lad^^ because she under- 
stands how her house should be managed 
and cleaned, and kept tidj^ ? — because 
she can teach her servants when the}^ are 
ignorant, put method into their proceed- 
ings when they are careless, and quietl}' 
but attentively look on and superintend 
when they are tolerably efficient ? We 
are all made of the same clay, though 
differently tempered by education and 
position; we are all subject to vicissi- 
tudes, and cannot tell what a day, or 
even an hour, may bring forth ; is it not 
then, wiser to be armed at all points, pre- 
pared for all circumstances, equal to any 
emergency ? 

These preliminary remarks have been 
made to preface the directions we are 
about to give for the daily routine of a 



servant's duties, which else might have 
seemed out of place here, had it not been 
our opinion that, in order to manage ser- 
vants well, a miy tress should fully under- 
stand what their actual duties are. 

Early rising is indispensable if a ser- 
vant would do her duty ; it is not possi- 
ble that the rooms can be du^ted, the 
fires lit, the breakfast got ready, and all 
the httle incidental jobs done, unless a 
servant is down stairs at least two hours 
before breakfast-time. We should fix six 
o'clock as the proper hour at which work 
should begin all the year round : for in 
winter even more has to be done than in 
summer, and few things are more un- 
pleasant than to have servants pottering 
about their work all day, instead of get- 
ting through the chief and dirtiest part of 
it in the morning hours. If we make a 
call, which gives us the most favorable 
impression of the family, — to see a tidy- 
looking, clean servant, answer the door ; 
or to have it opened by one wdio looks 
as if she had deemed it neceissary when 
blacking the stoves to black her own per 
son also ? 

A servant should be trained to rise 
about half-past five, throw open her bed, 
and her window, too, when the weather 
permits ; unclose the shutters of the 
staircase and dining-room^ open the win- 
dows of this latter to air it ; pass into 
the kitchen, and open the shutters and 
windows there ; light the kitchen fire ; 
well rinse the kettle, and fill it with 
fresh water; .see that the boiler is well 
supplied witli vrater, and tlien proceed to 
prepare the room required for breakfast. 

The lug must be folded up and removed, 
and the proper cloth laid down in front of 
the fire-place before the grate is touched 
^^we are supposing that it is winter) ; the 
box containing the black-lead and brush- 
es for a black stove, or the emery paste, 
and leather, brushes, cloth, &c., for a 
polished stove, and the scuttle containing 
coal, wood, &c., must be brought up. 



DAILY WOKK. 



43 



Once a week, at least, the soot should be 
gently swept down from the chimney 
into a shovel, as it otherwise gathers all 
round the lower ledges, and is very apt 
to take fire. The stove must be polished 
with a brush, or a cloth, according to its 
nature, every morning, and thoroughly 
cleaned at least once a week. The fire 
may then be laid and lighted, and in doing 
this there is some art. Where one girl 
will light and re-light the same fire three 
or four times over, consuming in each 
attempt a quantity of wood, and paper, 
another will, with less wood, kindle a 
brisk fire at once. The mystery lies in 
obtaining a perfect draught of air through 
the pile of materials, and placing those in 
juxtaposition which are most combusti- 
ble in nature. Where this is properly 
done there will be little smoke, and great 
saving of fuel ; but fire-lighting requires 
the use Of one's senses and some skill, 
commonplace a matter as we may think 
it. 

This much having been done, the 
sweeping comes next. Now, it will not 
be requisite thoroughly to sweep the car- 
pet all over above once a week ; on the 
other six days those parts of the room 
chiefl}^ used, alone require sweeping, and 
this may be done with a dust-pan and a 
soft hand-brush. Then comes the dust- 
ing, and in doing this a feather brush 
should be used for the frames and chair 
covers, and a duster for the furniture. 
On the cleaning day the carpet must be 
well swept with a carpet-broom and tea- 
leaves, the furniture well cleaned and 
rubbed, the mantel-piece and ledges wash- 
ed, the inside of the windows cleaned, 
and every ornament well dusted. 




ed, the mats shaken, the passage swept, 
and the brasses polished before the fami- 
ly come down. 




Feather Duster. 

The breakfast is then to be prepared ; 
the cloth laid, the breakfast service pro- 
perly arranged, the ham or eggs, or what- 
ever it may be, cooked, the toast made, 
the butter set in clear, fresh water, the 
coffee prepared and the milk boiled. 



Window Brush. 

The street-door steps should be clean- 




Brushes for Cleaning. 

The servant next proceeds to the bed- 
rooms, opens the windows, lays the bed- 
clothes back to air, and turns up the mat- 
tresses or feather-beds in each room ; then 
empties the slops, cleanses and rinses all 
basins, ewers, bottles, &c., wipes up all 
slops, and brings fre.>h water to supply 
all wants in each room. The beds are 
then to be made, and the rooms dusted. 
On cleaning day, which should come for 
each room once a-week, the chamber 
utensils must all be well washed in warm 
water, the carpets taken up and shaken, 
the floor scrubbed, the curtains shaken, 
and the furniture cleaned. During the 
summer the floor under the bed should 
be washed over three times a-week at 
least, to remove all dust and flue. 

Before all this can be finished, the 
breakfast will have had to be removed, 
and this should be methodically done ; 
the china being gathered on a tray with- 



44 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



out either fuss or rattle, the crumbs 
brushed from the cloth, and this latter 
doubled up in its original folds, and any 
crumbs which may have fallen on the 
floor swei)t up into a dust-pan. 

The servant will now get her own 
breakfast, and then wash up and put 
away all the breakfast things, having first 
set aside all the eatables, giving the scraps- 
to the cat, and taking care that nothing 
is wasted. 

The up-stairs work having been done, 
the candlesticks and lamps should be 
cleaned and trimmed ; and then the 
knives cleaned. Where only one servant 
is kept, she will ere this have had to 
think about dinner, and manage so as to 
make the earlier prepai'ations for that 
important matter between whiles. A 
mistress should always inform her domes- 
tic charged with such duties, what she 
intends having for dinner, when the girl 
is removing the breakfast things, other- 
wise she cannot possibly arrange her dai- 
ly duties so as to attend to the cooking 
without neglecting them ; and the mis- 
tress should, as far as possible, endeavor 
to arrange her dinner so as to suit the 
household duties of the particular day 
for which she is catering. For each day 
should have its special duties ; as, Mon- 
day, the wash for towels, dusters, servants' 
clothes, &c., and looking up the clothes for 
the laundress ; Tuesday, cleaning the at- 
tics ; Wednesday, the best bed-rooms ; 
Thursday, the drawing-room ; Friday, the 
dining-room and plate ; and Saturday, the 
hall, staircase, and kitchen, covers, &c. 
Such regulations once laid down, the ser- 
vant will know what duties each day re- 
quires of her; and the mistress, being 
awaie what has to be done, will be able 
to give her orders accordingly, — for noth- 
ing can be done without good manage- 
ment in a small household. Both mis- 
tress and servant must exercise fore- 
thought, or the whole day will be one 
scene ol hurry, scurry, and discomfort. 



The next thing, then, is dinner, and 
this meal having been served and removed, 
the servant must, if the family are in the 
habit of retiring to the drawing-room, 
run up and see that all is right there ; 
the fires burning and curtains let down, 
if in winter, or any little customary 
summer arrangements made. Then comes 
washing up the dinner things, and pre- 
paring for tea, and serving that at the 
proper hour. 

While the family are at tea is the best 
time for the servant to go up to the bed- 
rooms, turn down the beds, close win- 
dows, light fires, or perform any other 
customary or necessary duty. 

The tray has to be removed, and cups 
used at that meal, washed and put away. 
The tea leaves should be squeezed tolera- 
bly dry and put away in an old dish or 
basin, for sweeping. All window shut- 
ters should be closed and doors bolted at 
dusk, both in winter and summer. If 
sujiper is taken, it is usually carried up 
on a tray covered with a cloth ; aftei- that 
comes the putting out of all fires and 
lamps, the fastening the hall door, and 
then to rest. 

Any one who takes the trouble to re- 
flect upon the multifarious occupations of 
a female domestic, in a family where but 
one is kept, cannot but perceive the abso- 
lute necessity of a regular plan of pro- 
ceedings, and also of the need there is 
for consideration, patience, and kindness. 
With all the activity and good-will in the 
world, it is physically impossible that a 
girl can be in two places at once ; and 
yet she may be just performing soms 
nice operation in cookery while a visitor 
may be knocking at the door, and her 
mistress ringing inipatientl3'to have some- 
thing done towards tidying herself or the 
apartment. How is this to be managed ? 
It can only be settled quietly by the mis- 
tress bestirring herself, and aiding in 
smoothing the difficulty. Where two or 
more servants are kept, one should always 



OEDEB AND METHOD. 



45 



be tidy and ready to answer the door, 
and the lady of the house and her apart- 
ments should always be mis d qiiatre 
ep ingles, or, in other words, in such or- 
der that a visit from royalty itself would 
scarcely create any bustle. Indeed, the 
test of a well-arranged establishment is 
the absence of all fuss. The advent of 
relatives from the country bent on find- 
ing a home and a bed there, the arrival 
of unexpected guests to dinner, or any 
such unexpected events, will, of course, 
slightly derange the economy of a house- 
hold, especially if it be a small one ; but 
our housewife will not allow this to be 
visible. Quietly and without confusion 
she will take opportunities of giving the 
necessary orders ; and if her servants are 
regularly trained, they will comprehend 
and second her at once. In every house 
spare sheets, blankets, and bed-clothes 
should always be kept aired, in case of 
their being required on any sudden 
emergency, and this can be done by lay- 
ing them between the palliasse and mat- 
tress of any bed in regular use. We have 
before spoken of the advantage of always 
having the store- closet well supplied. It 
is a great mistake to fancy that anything 
is saved by purchasing articles that will 
keep, in small quantities, and certainly 
the loss of time incurred by having con- 
stantly to send out for trifles, is both a 
great waste and a great inconvenience. 
No servant can get through her work 
properly if she has repeatedly to run out 
on errands, or if she is called oflf frequent- 
ly on frivolous pretexts. A mistress is 
quite right in exacting from her servants 
a regular and proper fulfilment of all 
their duties ; but on lier part she must 
give them time and opportunity to do 
this. If she sees they want method, she 
must try to teach them ; and through all 
must remember how defective their earlj- 
education has too often been, how little 
preparation they have received for the 



path of life they have to follow, and be 
patient with them. The great social 
evil of the present age is, that females are 
rarely trained with reference to their 
probable duties. This evil pervades all 
classes, from the lowest to the highest. 
The daughter ofthe7?277//o?i7ia//e is seldom 
taught to consider how great are the 
social responsibilities her wealth and po- 
sition impose upon her, — to regard her- 
self as a steward of the Almighty, a 
medium through which His blessings may 
flow to those poor and unfortunate ones, 
whose lot is cast so far apart from hers. 
If she learns at all that " to whom much 
is given, much will be required," she 
probably imagines that much to be in 
the way of style, dress, and accomplish- 
ments ; which, to a certain extent, is not 
far wrong, for the circulation of money 
is a commercial advantage, and those 
elevated in position should also be eleva- 
ted in mental and moral attributes ; but 
this is not all required of them. There 
is a duty to the poor, the duty of kind- 
ness, charity, and mercy. If all who 
have it in their power would but attend 
to this a little, how nmch good might be 
done ! and what sits so gracefully on 
woman as such gentle deeds and holy 
virtues ? 

Then, as we have before said, the daugh- 
ters of the working class are hardly pre- 
pared for their position as wives, mothers, 
and housewives ; and the children of the 
poor have too often a still worse bringing 
up, being reared amid misery, poverty, 
dirt, and vice, if not in their own fami- 
lies, at least in many of those around 
them. 

Vast as has been the general spirit of 
progression in this age, it is marvellous 
that these ever3--day matters have been, 
practically speaking, so totally overlook- 
ed. There is much theory, but the greater 
part of it is speculative and Utopian. We 
are not advocates of systems, but would 



recommend good common sense instead ; 
for systems can only be applied to cer- 
tain parties and in certain ways, whereas 
common sense will cull the best parts of 
many systems, and adapt them to suit 
the peculiar position or character it has 
to deal with, — and thus give to that 
chaiacter a firmness and freedom from 
conventional prejudices which will, when 
strengthened by right principles, make it 
good and useful. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Among the many duties a woman is 
called upon to fulfil, surely none can be 
deemed of such paramount importance as 
those she owes to her children. Now it 
is by no means our intention to write a 
chapter of " advice to mothers," or enter 
upon the subject of the education and 
general management of little people ; all 
we have to do with the matter here is to 
notice it as forming a branch of our sub- 
ject ; for the nursery is an important 
part of a house, and upon its good man- 
agement much of the comfort, as well as 
the health and well-being of every mem- 
ber of the family, will depend. 




Sitz Bath. 
If ever a woman has need of thought, 
care, and patience, it is when she becomes 
a mother. Who can look upon that most 
helpless of all created beings — a new-born 
infant — and not feel pity for it, interest 



in it ; and surely no mother can bestow 
her first kiss on the little unconscious 
innocent without feeling some sense of 
the responsibilities which now rest upon 
her — for it is not only a human being, 
but an immortal soul which is committed 
to her chai"ge. 

Wherever such an arrangement can be 
made, a good-sized airy room should be 
set apart for the nursery, and always 
kept scrupulously clean, well ventilated, 
and of an even wholesome temperature. 
AVarmth is highly necessary to the health 
of infants and j'oung children — but not 
the warmth of a close, over-heated room, 
for that oppresses their lungs, and makes 
them delisate and very susceptible of 
cold. Let the child be comfortably clad, 
and a natural temperature of body thus 
maintained. The health of very many 
infants is impaired by the foolish custom 
of exposing their little chests and arms 
by finelj^-worked low bodies and very 
short sleeves, tied up so as effectually to 
prevent their being of any use in the way 
of covering. Very young children have 
so little natural heat, that they absolute- 
ly require that the temperature of their 
bodies should be kept up, by means of 
clothing, to a proper standard. 

The furniture of the nursery ought to 
be very simple, and to consist of no more 
things than are absolutely necessary. The 
" bassinet," a wicker basket stufied very 
soft and lined within, two and a-lialf or 
three feet long, and one and a-half wide, 
has been used in England for very young 
infants, and may be carried about. Cra- 
dles and swinging cots are condemned by 
medical men, and are now less used than 
cribs. Cliildren's chairs of various sizes, 
a washstand, shower bath, a child's bath, 
or a large earthernware basin fixed in a 
stand of wood, various vessels of earthen- 
ware, a nursery lamp for warming liquids 
when there is no fire, sponges and linen 
baskets — comprise the requisite articles 
of furniture. A wire guard for the fire, and 



THE NUESERY. 



47 



bars for 
omitted. 




the wiudows should never be 



X 



Fr<jucli i'ulJuig i'^ii.ici'. 

Next to warmth, in the category of 
matters indispensable to health is clcan- 
lines?. INIorning and night, an infant or 
a child under three years of age, should 
be bathed in tepid water in winter, and 
cold water in summer. This operation 




Can, Bath an'l Pail, 
should be performed both thoroughly and 
quickly, and then the whole body wiped 
quite dry with a soft towel, and the hmbs 
and back gently rubbed with the hand. 
The skin of an infant is so delicate that a 
little dirt, a slight accumulation of pow- 
der, any dampness, any rough handling 




Infants' Bath. 

or friction with a coarse cloth, will break 
or creek it, and often produce a humor 
v.hich is not easily got I'id of. The 
c othes of an infant, and especially those 
in immediate contact with its body, 
should be soft and clean. Its bed-clothes 
must likewise be kept well aired, and 
free from damp and unpleasant smells. 
Very young children should be kept, 



as much as possible, in a recumbent pos- 
ture ; the less a child is allowed to sit 
upright for the first six months, the 
stronger will be its back afterwards. 
Too strong a light is prejudicial to J'oung 
children ; neither within nor o it of doors 
should their eyes be cxpo.ted to anything 
like glare ; they ought likewise to be 
shielded from high winds. Sleep is a 
great strengthener of children, when it is 




Leg Bath. 



Foot Bath. 



natural, and care should be taken that 
they lie comfortably as regards position, 
are warm, and sheltered from all draughts 
and from light, though allowed sufficient 
air. In all things endeavor to establish 
rcgidar habits from the very first ; regu- 
lar hours for feeding, sleeping, dressing, 
and undri'ssing, should be observed. Few 
people can form an idea how much their 
own comfort and the child's well-being 
will be promoted by this. Of cour^e, 
every now and then illness, or some un- 
foreseen event, will interfere with this 
sj'stem, but it must be resumed again as 
soon as possible. We are aware that 
many people v>'ill deem this regularity 
unnecessary, but from the cradle to the 
grave, we are all moie or less the creatures 
of habit ; and from the time a child first 
begins to notice an3'tLing, its habits may 
bo said to commence. 

When a child is fed. it should be from 
a proper bottle, and with light, thin food, 
not given too hot or in large quantities. 
Farinaceous substances of various kinds 
are best adapted for children of tender age. 
For the first twelvemonth these may be 
given in a fluid, and semi-fluid state, and 
afterwards in the shape of puddings either 



48 



THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



baked or boiled. Many children will 
not take meat, and they do not appear to 
thrive less than others ; nature at this 
early age is generally the best pilot, and 
we shall seldom err if we follow her lead. 

The period of teething is always one 
of anxiety, and requires additional care 
and watchfulness; but plenty of fresh 
air, good and sufhcient, but not over-feed- 
ing, and an occasional warm bath or gen- 
tle aperient when there appears to be 
tendency to fever, will in most cases ward 
off' serious evils. The less physic a child 
takes the better in a general way — not 
that we would advise mothers ever to 
slight any actual premonitory symptoms 
of illness; infantile diseases being fre- 
quently very rapid in their course. 

There is no occasion to teach children 
to walk ; when they are strong enough, 
they will invariably find out the proper 
use of their feet ; let them lie on the floor, 
and then sit, and then crawl ; and by-and- 
by they will stand up, and then walk 
along, holding by something ; and then, 
when they appear capable of doing yet 
more, encourage them to venture alone, 
but watch carefully that they do not fall, 
or they may be frightened, and thrown 
back some weeks. After a child is a 
year old, it must cease to be regarded as 
an irrational being by those about it ; a 
quick, lively baby is always taking no- 
tice ; its intelligence is becoming daily 
and hourly developed ; — in a word, the 
first rudiments of education are entering 
its little mind. This may sound extrav- 
agant and fanciful, but what says prover- 
bial philosophy ? " With his mother's 
milk the child drinketh education ; " and 
let any one take three children of from a 
year-and-a-half to two years old, one of 
the three shall have been brought up by 
a quiet or ignorant nurse, one by an 
affectionate and sensible mother, and the 
other among a family of children ; the 
first, unless it be a prodigy, will be far 
behind the second in quickness, and the 



third will be as much before the second. 
We would punish any one who mispro- 
nounced words before babies, or taught 
them to call things or animals by ridicu- 
lous names ; and we would doubly pun- 
ish anj'^ one who instilled fear into the 
hearts of young children by threats of 
"bogies," "black men," and such like 
nursery monsters. Many a grown man 
and woman has found it difficult to over- 
come the dislike to darkness implanted 
in them when young children by some 
nursery bug-bears. Teach a child rather 
to believe that angels watch over it, in- 
duce it to be good from a fear of grieving 
its parents, but never destroy or sully 
that sweet confidence which is the most 
blessed part of childhood. Never tell a 
child a falsehood either ; if you promise 
a thing, do it ; if you say a thing, act up 
to it. Empty threats and vain promises 
made to quiet a child, teach it afterwards, 
in its turn, to disregard truth, and make 
it distrust those whom, next to God, it 
should love and honor ; whereas " exam- 
ple is a constant monitor." 

We are not advocates for " cramming " 
children too early with crude, dry learn- 
ing ; but much may be taught without 
effort. " Line upon line " may be in- 
stilled by such simple stories, such plea- 
sant gossip as children love to listen to, 
such bright pictures as they delight to 
look upon and have explained to tliem. 
There is in the present age a ro3'al road 
to all the fundamental instruction needed 
by children for the first eight or ten 
years of their lives ; the dull, uninterest- 
ing paths we had to tread are now decked 
with so many flowers that they have be- 
come attractive and pleasant. Even the 
very toys and games are made means of 
improvement ; and history, arithmetic, 
and geography may now be learned as 
actual amusements. 

The physical wants of growing children 
are a sufficiency of good, plain food at 
regular hours, exercise in the open air, 



TRAINING OF CHILDREN. 



49 



well-ventilatcd rooms, clothing warm 
enough to promote health, and suflBcient- 
ly easy in fit not to impede growth or a 
free use of the limbs : strong shoes or 
boots to protect the feet from damp, and 
a proper allowance of sleep taken at regu- 
lar hours, — no child under six years of 
age being suifered to sit up after eight 
o'clock, and all under twelve being safe- 
ly in bed by nine. 

Late hours, hot, crowded places, as 
theatres, &c., and children's parties, are 
all very destructive of health ; irregulari- 
ties of all kinds are to be avoided, such 
as too long walks, any great excitement 
or over-fatigue ; for growing children 
require all their strength and energies for 
natural purposes ; and being more ex- 
citable than grown persons, exhaust 
themselves the sooner. 

It may be thought by some that we 
are diverging from our subject, but " our 
housewife," if she be now single, may 
have younger sisters and brothers, and 
may probably one day have children of 
her own, when she will learn 

" How infinite the wealth of love and hope, 
Garnere'l in those same tiny treasure houses 1 
And oh! what bankrupts in the world we feel, 
When death, like some remorseless creditor, 
Seizes on all we fondly thought our own." 

At all events, the care of children is 
one of woman's most solemn responsi- 
bilities — one of the most sacred of all 
the trusts committed to her care ; for 
has not a child an immortal soul ? 

Those who live much among children 
should carefully purify their every 
thought, word, and action, — for the duc- 
tile and impressionable nature of a child, 
chameleon-like, takes its hue from that of 
the characters which surround it. " The 
seeds of first instructions are dropped 
into the deepest furrows ; " therefore 
we cannot omit this chapter of our 
•' Thoughts and Maxims." 

If we would cultivate a flower with 



success, we plant it in a fitting soil, we 
water it at proper times, we give to it its 
due proportion of air and sun ; shall we 
not equally study the constitution and 
physical requirements of a child, in order 
to bestow upon i^ the requisite nurture ? 
for children, like flowers, require study — 
all are not equally hard}', equally vigor-, 
ous, eqtially beautiful. Some resemble 
hot>house plants, and are frail and deli- 
cate ; others, like the hardy evergreen, 
can bear and brave change of temperature 
and hardship. The system which would 
be suitable for one of these natures would 
be injurious to the other — hence, judg- 
ment is needful. 

Again, if we would train a vine so as 
to render it luxuriant and productive of 
fine fruit, we bestow much pains on the 
arrangement of each branch ; we do not 
neglect the smallest shoot, or wantonly 
injure or twist the least branch; if we 
prune, we do so but to remove that 
which might militate against the health 
or produce of the tcee. Shall we bestow 
less culture upon the moral education 
of a child? Shall we not, with equal 
care, endeavor to lemove each evil pro- 
pensity, and foster each good disposition ? 
Is not the fruit of tenfold more import- 
ance ? Pure and innocent is the mind 
of a child ; let no care be spared to pre- 
serve it so. Those who would govern 
children by harshness gi-eatly err; a 
child never loves the person it fears ; 
besides, all fear is more or less slavish 
and degrading. Rather teach them to 
act rightly from a sense of what is right 
and what is wrong ; found their obedi- 
ence on affection ; give tiiem principles 
of action, and teach them to reason and 
think, and, above all, make religion their 
guiding star. 

A child who fears God and honors his 
parents is armed for the world's warfare 
with a breast-plate, which, if not invul- 
nerable, at least will turn aside jnany an 



50 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



arrow. Our favorite Tupper quaintly 
but truly says:— "When his reason 
yieldeth fruit, make thy child thy friend, 
for a filial friend is double gain, a diamond 
set in gold. As an infant thy mandate 
was enough ; as he grows in years, let 
him hear thy reasons." Believe me, we 
-wantonly trifle not only with our own 
happiness, but with that of those little 
ones committed to our charge, when we 
neglect to watch over the treasures we 
ought so dearly to prize, when we trifle 
with the hearts, minds, and souls of our 
children, ignoring their value, our re- 
sponsibility, and the awful reckoning 
which will be required of us. We are 
all too apt to treat children as dolls, to 
dress and caress them one hour, and 
send them out of our way the next, 
not deeming that beneath the seeming 
thoughtless gaiety of those little ones 
tliere lurks a world of feeling and sensi- 
bility. Kindness is as necessary to 
them as daily food. We do not mean 
false indulgence, but considerate kind- 
ness. An unjust, a cold or harsh word 
or action, especially if undeserved, pene- 
trates the heart of a child with as keen a 
sting as it does ours ; and who shall say 
how many have grown up callous and 
reckless from having their first affections 
blunted, their feelings and wishes disre- 
garded ? Consistent practice is worth a 
wliole world of precept, and example 
will influence while words or coercion 
are fruitless. 

Once more, then, we would beg " our 
housewife " to study what are her duties 
towards children. We would entreat 
mothers so to train their daughters that 
they may never have cause to blush and 
tremble for their grandchildren. It is 
no figure of speech to say that " the child 
is father to the man ; " study diligently, 
therefore, how best 

" — to rear the to.nder tliought, 
To teach the young idea liow to tboot; 
To pour fresh instruction o'er the mind, 



To breathe the enlivening spirit, and to fix 
The generous purpose in the glowing breast." 

Nor let children, who should be oui 
blessings, become our torments 

" While young our folly, and when old our fear." 

Lastly, but not of the least importance 
in the good training of children it should 
be rigidly observed by parents, never to 
show any difference of opinion in their 
treatment before them. Nothing can be 
more pernicious to their moral culture, 
engendering in them habits of disobedi- 
ence, for they cannot obey one parent 
without disobeying' the other. We ear- 
nestly recommend attention to this ob- 
servance ; for, besides the evil of disobedi- 
ence that is almost sure to follow a dif- 
ference in opinion from those in authority 
over the child, the latter is sometimes 
prone to disregard the instructions and 
admonitions of both, and set up princi- 
ples of his own, more in accordance with 
his inclinations, however erroneous they 
may be. 

A chapter is devoted to cookery for 
children. 



CHAPTER rx. 

Another duty, of great importance, 
d-evolves on woman ; namely — the care of 
the sick. From the highest to the low- 
est none are, properly speaking, exempt 
from this charge. 'Tis true that those 
who are rich can hire experienced nurses, 
but still the responsibility, the anxiety, 
rests with the mistress, for she cannot 
hire affection, thoughtful care, and all 
those little attentions which make the 
sole comfort of an invalid ; she can 
merely secure a species of human ma- 
chine which mechanically performs its 
duties, and between whiles eats, drinks, 
sleeps, and comforts itself. There are 
many excellent and kind-hearted profes- 



CARE OF THE SICK. 



51 



Bional nurses, but there are also more 
who become, as it were, petrified by the 
habitual contemplation of suffering, and 
who merely regard the patient with an 
eye to business. 

In a sick room the kindness and atten- 
tion of the nurse often work far greater 
marvels than the skill of the doctor, for she 
is there every hour, she sees every change, 
and can minister to many little wants. 
Those trifles which make up the events 
of an invalid, those minor details, so un- 
important to a person in health, those 
whims, and desires, and nervous suscep- 
tibilities which appear almost childish to 
lookers-on, will be studied by a good, 
conscientious nurse, and overlooked or 
disregarded by one who either does not 
feel interested in the patient, or has not 
sufficient sympathy to induce her to study 
these matters. In the former case, the 
invalid will be soothed and cheered ; in 
the latter, irritated and depressed. Sure- 
ly it is not diflicult to conceive which 
influence must act most beneficially upon 
the system. 

Gentleness, watchfulness, firmness, 
judgment, some delicacy of feeling and 
savoir /aire, and a truly Christian spirit. 
are the distinguishing characteristics 
which will best adapt a woman for fulfil- 
ling this phase of her duties. There are 
many who, from intense solicitude or 
romantic devotion, will give way to those 
impulses of feeling which lead them to 
devote themselves so entirely to the nurs- 
ing of some beloved relative, that all 
other duties, and even self, are whollj^ 
forgotten. What is the consequence of 
this eri'or of judgment? Their own 
health succumbs, and they become not 
only useless, but render themselves 
sources of trouble and anxiety. How 
much better to have husbanded their 
strength so as to be able to remain use- 
ful ! That despised article, common 
sense, would teach us all so much if we 
would but stop to listen ; if we would not 



moimt, each one, our own peculiar hobby, 
and gallop off at a tremendous rate, heed- 
less of all sign-posts, and often regardless 
of even hedges and ditches. Affection ! 
feeling! sentiment! nerves! how much 
has been done and loft undone in these 
names ! while poor dear common sense 
has been decried as a most unfeeling per- 
son, and rudely ejected when she strove 
to make herself heard. 

Yet in few places is common sense a 
more valuable assistant than in the sick 
room ; aided by self-command and good 
feeling, she will transform the most un- 
initiated person into an excellent and effi- 
cient nurse. Let us hear a few of her 
fundamental principles. 

Speak in a low but perfectly distinct 
voice, both to the invalid and to any one 
who enters the room, in order that, al 
though no unnecessary soimd may be 
heard, the patient's ear may not be fa- 
tigued by striving to catch the words, 
or excited by mutterings or whispers ad- 
dressed to some one else. 

Let your countenance be calm and 
cheerful, your manners soothing and 
hopeful, and your words such as may 
cheer or comfort the mind. 

Avoid all fuss, all hasty movements, 
all noises that may startle or disturb ; let 
even your dress and shoes be chosen with 
reference to quiet. 

Keep everything in its place, so that in 
an instant j^ou can put your hand on it 
when required ; have hot water, clean 
cups, spoons, glasses, and well-aired body 
and bed linen always handy ; let the air 
of the room be changed frequently ; avoid 
all bad smells, or remove them as soon as 
possible ; pay strict attention to the tem- 
perature of the chamber, and keep it as 
even as may be ; and regulate the light 
with equal care. 

The furniture of a sick room should be 
adapted to the wants of the invalid. A 
rec'iuing-chair will be found convenient: 
and a rocking-chair for exercise, with a 



52 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



movable one for those who cannot walk. 
The bedstead should be contrived to af- 
ford ease by change of position. Dr. 
Arnott's hydrostatic bed has been men- 
tioned as particularly useful for invalids. 

All food offered to invalids should be 
daintily prepared, and presented in the 
most careful manner. How often, when 
one has been longing for food, has he 
turned from it with disgust, because he 
has seen the nurse cool it with her breath, 
or taste it, and then drop the spoon back 
into it, and present it. Nor is it well to 
inquire of invalids what shall be got for 
them. If they express a wish for some 
particular thing, well and good, let it be 
got for them, if reasonable ; but a trifling 
delicacy unexpectedly brought will often 
tempt the appetite ; besides, a sick per- 
son, or even a convalescent, is often too 
languid to be at the trouble of thinking 
about eating, and would sooner go with- 
out ; or if he or she chooses something, 
it may be the very thing which would be 
improper or prejudicial, and then comes 
disappointment, and a species of disgust 
for all else, for in illness the appetite is 
ever capricious. 

Nowhere is cleanliness of such para- 
mount importance as in the sick room. 
Do not let us be misunderstood here. 
We do not mean that an immensity of 
sweeping, scouring, and dusting is to be 
done, but simply that the chamber must 
be kept clean and ventilated, that the bed 
and body linen must be changed often 
enough to refresh without fatiguing the 
patient, and that the air must be purified 
by means of vinegar, or other disinfect- 
ants. 

As there are so many kinds of illness, 
no general rules can be laid down, and 
our friend, common sense, must be allow- 
ed to be the special adviser. In one case 
body and mind may be paralyzed by 
weakness or languor ; in another the body 
may be agonized, and yet the mind clear 



and active ; while in a third the body 
may be sane, the mind insane. Hence 
no one who is a mere machine, guided by 
certain rules, can be a good and eflBcient 
nurse ; no one who docs not study how 
to minister to the mind as well as the 
body, who will not endeavor, to a certain 
extent, to identify herself with the tastes, 
feelings, and even prejudices of the pa- 
tient, can be really useful. 

What we have hitherto said applies 
chiefly to adult patients ; to nurse a sick 
child may seem a far easier task, but is 
not so. What gentleness, firmness, play- 
fulness, and, above all, what patience is 
needed in the sick chamber of a child ! — 
for in time of illness, a child is doubly a 
child, almost a baby again. 

Every housekeeper should always have 
a store of old linen, cambric, and calico 
rags, and old pieces of flannel ; these are 
easily obtained by saving worn-out linen, 
flannel, and other garments, or at least 
the useful portions of them, and treasur- 
ing old silk and cambric handkerchiefs. 
Such things are invaluable in time of 
sickness for poultices, fomentations, 
leeches, &c. Those who have them not 
will do well to visit a pawnshop, or the 
emporium of one of those purchasers of 
wardrobes ; and having there found one 
or two articles of no value but to be torn 
up, to buy these, bring them home, have 
them thoroughly washed, and then put 
them away for use. 

It may seem to some that we dwell too 
long on a sad and painful subject, but it 
is good for us at times to be serious, to 
turn from the contemplation of life's 
pleasures and enjoyments, and look upon 
its darker pages ; for it has been beauti- 
fully said by an eminent writer, that 
" suffering is not a slender, dark thread, 
winding every now and then through a 
warp of dazzling brightness, but it is in- 
terwoven with the whole texture. It is 
not incidental, but designed for us ; it 



CARE OF THE SICK. 



53 



enters into God's purposes ; it has a great 
work to do, and we know nothing of life 
until we comprehend its purposes." 
Again : " Suffering nourishes the tender- 
est sympathies of our nature ; it raises 
us to energy and a consciousness of our 
own powers, and at the same time in- 
fuses the meekest dependence on God; 
it stimulates us to cherish and prize the 
blessings of this world, and at the same 
time weans us from and lifts us above 
mere earthly things." 

There is no home into which sickness 
may not come at any hour ; and as it is 
to woman that the office of nurse is in-» 
variably delegated, surely every woman 
ought to learn betimes all that will best 
qualify her to become the ministering 
angel, whose presence shall bless the long 
hours of pain and confinement. False 
delicacy, foolish weakness, and all that 
can militate against usefulness, should be 
early overcome. We have seen a daugh- 
ter scream, and weep, and wring her 
hands, while her mother lay fainting be- 
fore her ; we have seen a mother shriek 
and fall on her knees, and utter words of 
agony, when some accident happened to 
her child. But how did all this unavail- 
ing grief benefit the sufferers? How 
much better she does, who, controlling 
her feelings, thinks only how she can ad- 
minister relief. Some might deem her 
callous, but others know what i^eal feel- 
ing is concealed behind the pale face, 
white compressed lips, and quivering eye- 
lids ; to utter it might weaken her, and 
incapacitate her from rendering that 
prompt assistance which may even be 
requisite to preserve life. It is our pri- 
vate opinion, that every woman should 
have a general knowledge of the anatomy 
of the human frame, and of the functions 
of its various organs; also, that she 
should be acquainted with chemistry to 
a suflBcient extent to prevent her from 
committing absurd errors in cookery, or 
in the making of perfumes, cosmetics, 
4 



and pomades, or pickles and confection- 
ery ; and to this we would add, that she 
will find it useful to understand the qual- 
ities and action of the drugs and medica- 
ments in most common use, in order that 
she may not administer them to herself, 
or any members of her family " promiscu- 
ously," but with some slight notion of 
what she is about. We do not, however, 
mean to advise " our housewife " to prac- 
tise quackery on herself or those belong- 
ing to her ; for many a constitution has 
been ruined by injudicious physicking; 
but there are cases in which some house- 
hold remedy, promptly applied, will often 
prevent a long illness, and then every 
one should know how to act. 

Women should understand the making 
and applying of poultices, leeches, fomen- 
tations, warm baths, and similar things ; 
but how few do ! They may fancy them- 
selves clever in such matters. We have 
known a young person who rushed head- 
long on in everything of the kind she un- 
dertook ; made a poultice in the kitchen, 
and wondered that it was cold as ice by 
the time she had carried it up to the 
second floor ; applied fomentations, and 
damped the bed and night-clothes, so that 
a chill, instead of heat, was produced. 

In another portion of our book is given 
a large list of articles of food for invalids, 
with directions for cooking; and also a 
chapter containing remarks on diseases 
common in families. 



CHAPTER X. 

THE STORE-ROOM AND MARKETING. 

It must be borne in mind that an in- 
ventory of furniture, linen, and china 
should be kept, and the things examined 
by it twice a year, or oftener if there be 
a change of servants ; the articles used 
by servants should be intrusted to their 



64 



THE PRACTICAL H0U8EKEEPEE. 



care, with a list, as is done with plate. 
In articles not in common use, such as 
spare bedding, tickets of p.ircliment, num- 
bered and specifying to what they belong, 
should be sewed on eachj and minor 
articles in daily use, such as household 
cloths and kitchen requisites, should be 
occasionally looked to. The best means 
to preserve blankets from moths is to 
fold and lay them under the feather-beds 
that are in use, and shake them occasion- 
ally ; when soiled, they should be wash- 
ed, not scoured. 

A proper quantity of household arti- 
cles should alwaj-s be allowed for daily 
use. Each should also be kept in its proper 
l^lace, and applied to its proper use. Let 
all repairs be done as soon as wanted, 
remembering the old adage of " a stitch 
in time ; " and never if possible, defer any 
necessary household duty a moment 
beyond the time when it ought to be at- 
tended to. 




Eefrigerator. 
A Store-roovi is essential for the cus- 
tody of articles in constant use, as well 
as for others which are only occasionally 



called for. These should be at hand 
when wanted, each in separate drawers, 
or on shelves and pegs, all under the lock 
and key of the mistress, and never given 
out to the servants but under her inspec- 
tion. 

Pickles and preserves, prepared and 
purchased sauces, and all sorts of groce- 
ries, should be there stored ; the spices 
pounded and corked up in small bottles, 
sugar broken, and everything in readiness 
for use. Lemon-peel, thyme, parsley, 
and all sorts of sweet herbs, should be 
dried and grated for use in seasons of 
plenty; the tops of tongues saved, and 
dried for grating into omelets, &c. ; and 
care taken that nothing be wasted that 
can be turned to good account. 

Bread is so heavy an article of expense 
that all waste should be guarded against, 
and having it cut in the room will tend 
much to prevent it; but, for company, 
small rolls, placed in or on the napkin of 
each guest, are the most convenient, as 
well as the most elegant. Bread should 
be kept in earthern pans with covers. 

-Sugar being also an article of consider- 
able exi^ense in all families, the purchase 
demands jmrticular attention. The cheap- 
est does not go so far as that better re- 
fined, and there is a difference even in 
the degree of sweetness. The close, 
heavy, and shining white, or loaf-sugar, 
should be chosen. The best sort of brown 
has a bright, crystalline appearance, as if 
mixed with salt, and if feeling coarse when 
rubbed between the fingers, is better than 
when more powdery. East India sugars 
are finer for the price, but not so strong ; 
consequently, unfit for wines and sweet- 
meats, they do well for common purposes. 
To pound white sugar, rolling it with a 
bottle, and sifting, wastes it less than a 
mortar. 

Both soap and tallow candles are im- 
proved by keeping, and are best when 
made in cool weather ; at which time it 
will be prudent to lay in a stock of both. 
They are, indeed, better for being kept 



THE STORE-ROOM. 



55 



eight or ten months, nor will they spoil 
for two years if kept in a cool place ; and 
there are few articles that better deserve 
care in buying, and allowing a regulated 
quantity of, according to the size of the 
family. 

Wax, spermaceti, and composite can- 
dles ought to be always purchased in 
quantities of not less than a dozen pounds, 
on which an allowance is usually made. 

Soap should be cut in pieces that will 
make a long square, when first brought 
in, and kept out of the air two or three 
weeks ; for, if it dries quickly, it will 
crack, and, when wet, break. Put it on 
a shelf, leaving a space between each 
piece, and let it grow hard gradually ; 
thus it will save a full third in the con- 
sumption ; but, for coarse washing, soft 
soap will go further than the hard. 

Soda, by softening the water, saves a 
great deal of soap. It should be melted 
in a large ewer of water, some of which 
pour into the tubs and boiler ; and when 
the latter becomes weak add more. 




Self-Heating Flat Iron. 

Many good laundresses advise soaping 
linen in warm water the night previous 
to washing, as facilitating the operation 
with less friction. This should always 
be done with fine muslins and laces. 

The price o? starch depends upon that 
of flour ; the best will keep good in a dry 
warm room for some years. 



Everything should be kept in the place 
best suited to it, as much waste may 
thereby be avoided. 

Great care should be taken of jelly- 
bags, tapes for collared things, &c., which, 
if not perfectly scalded and kept dry, give 
an unpleasant flavor when next used. 

Vegetables will keep best on a stone 
floor, if the air be excluded ; meat in a 
cold dry place, where the air is freely 
admitted ; sugar and sweetmeats require 
a dry place, so does salt ; candles, cold, 
but not damp ; dried meats, hams, bacon, 
and tongues, the same. All sorts of seed 
for puddings, such as rice, &c., should be 
covered close to preserve them from in- 
sects ; but if kept long that will not be 
sufficient, unless they be occasionally 
sifted. Apples and pears should be laid 
upon very clean and dry straw, to pre- 
vent a musty taste ; nor should they be 
exposed to either light or air. The 
floor of a dark garret is a good place in 
which to deposit them ; or, which is still 
better, shelves made by strips of wood 
about two inches wide, placed an inch 
and a half apart, and the apples laid be- 
tween them. They should be ranged 
singly in rows, without touching each 
other, and should be often inspected, both 
to wipe them, if damp, and to reject those 
which may appear to be getting rotten ; 
but the larger sort of pears should be tied 
up by the stalk. Apples may also be 
preserved in excellent condition for a long 
period by being packed in large barrels 
with dry sand, but require to be used 
immediately when they are taken out. 

Coarse nets suspended in the store- 
room are very useful in preserving the 
finer kinds of fruit, lemons, &c., which 
are spoiled if allowed to touch. When 
lemons and oranges are cheap, a proper 
quantity should be bought and prepared, 
both for preserving the juice, and keeping 
the peel for sweetmeats and grating; 
especially by those who live in the coun- 
try, where they cannot always be had. 



56 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEE. 



They are perpetually wanted in cook- 
ery. 

The best way of scalding fruits, or 
boiling vinegar, is in a stone jar, on a hot 
iron hearth, or by putting the vessel into 
a saucepan of boiling water, called a wa- 
ter-bath, after its having been closely 
corked, but not quite filled, as the heat 
may occasion the fruits to swell ; but if 
they diminish after this is done, the 
v^essel must then be filled. 

Onions, shallots, and garlic should be 
hung up for winter use in ropes from the 
ceiling ; as should dried parsley, basil, 
savory, and knotted-marjoram, or Lon- 
don-thyme, and tarragon, to be used 
when herbs are ordered, but with discre- 
tion, as they are very pungent. 

Hams should be well covered in paper 
bags, and put in a chest or barrel, with 
layers of charcoal or ashes between. 
When you take one out to cut for use, 
put it away in a dark place, well covered. 

Herbs should be kept from the air. 
Herb tea, to do any good, should be made 
very strong. Herbs must be gathered 
while in blossom. Those who have a 
little ground will do well to raise the 
most useful herbs ; apothecaries make 
large profits on them. 

Suet and lard keep better in tin than 
earthen-ware. Suet keeps good a year, 
if chopped, packed in a stone jar, and 
covered with molasses. Or, pick suet 
free from veins and skin, melt it in water 
before a moderate fire, let it cool till it 
forms a hard cake, then wipe it dry and 
put it in clean paper, in linen bags. 

MARKETING. 

Although respectable butchers may, 
in most cases, be relied upon for the good- 
ness of the meat which they sell to regu- 
lar customers, yet many persons (both 
ladies and gentlemen) go to market and 
choose for themselves, when, if not com- 
petent judges, the inferior sorts generally 
fall to their lot. In country towns, also, | 



there are frequently but one or two mar- 
ket-days in the week; and the meat 
being brought from a distance, it is an 
essential point of good housekeeping to 
be so well acquainted with the quality as 
not to be easily imposed upon. 

Beef. — Well-fed beef may be known 
by the texture and color ; the lean will 
exhibit an open grain of deep coral-red, 
and the fat will appear of a healthy, oily 
smoothness, rather inclining to white 
than yellow. The suet firm and white. 
Yellow fat is a test of meat of an inferior 
quality. Heifer beef is but little inferior 
to ox beef; the lean is of a closer grain, the 
red paler, and the fat whiter. Cow beef may 
be detected by the same signs, save that 
the older the beast the texture of the 
meat will appear closer, and the flesh 
coarser to the eight* as well as harder to 
the touch. The grain of bull beef is 
coarser and closer still, the fat hard and 
skinny, the lean of a deep red, and it has 
a stronger scent. Ox beef is the richest 
and largest ; but in small families, and 
to some tastes, heifer beef is preferred, 
if finely fed. In old meat, a streak of 
horn runs between the fat and lean of 
the sirloin and ribs ; the harder this is, 
the older, and the flesh is not finely fla- 
vored ; that is to say, the horn has 
become so firm as to appear like bone ; 
but oxen are always the better if kept 
until five or six years old. 

Ox Tongue. — To choose a neat's' 
tongue, it should be of moderate size, 
plump, firm, and smooth to the touch ; 
for if the skin appears rough and shriv- 
elled, it will be found hard and fiavor- 
less. 

Veal. — When you observe the kidney 
well surrounded with fat, you may be 
sure the meat is of good quality. The 
whitest is not the best veal ; but the 
flesh of the bull-calf is of a brighter color 
than that of the cow-calf. The fillet of 
the latter is generally preferred on ac- 
count of the udder. There is a vein in 



MAKKETING. 



67 



the shoulder very perceptible ; and its 
color indicates the freshness of the meat ; 
if a bright red or blue, it is recently kill- 
ed ; if any green or yellow spots are visi- 
ble, it is stale. The suet will be flabby, 
and the kidney will smell. The other 
parts should be dry and white ; if clam- 
my or spotted, the meat is stale and bad. 
If more than eight or ten weeks old, the 
flesh becomes coarse. You will, of course, 
get it somewhat cheaper, and it may, to 
some palates, be found equally good in 
flavor, but not so delicate in either the 
color or the texture of the flesh. 

Mutton. — The best is of a fine grain, 
a bright color, the fat firm and white. 
It is better for being full-grown. The 
ram mutton may be known by the red- 
ness of the flesh, and the sponginess of 
the fat. The flesh of the ewe is paler, 
and the texture finer, but neither the 
meat nor gravy so well flavored, though 
a " maiden ewe," when it can be got, is 
considered particularly fine. If you wish 
to have a good haunch, choose one of 
small size and moderately fat, looking at 
the same time to the closeness of the 
grain and the whiteness of the fat ; but 
more particularly see that the flesh is 
dark-colored, that being a proof of age, 
and the older the better. In'boiled mut- 
ton this is not of so much importance as 
in roasted. 

Lamb should be eaten very fresh. In 
the fore-quarter, the vein in the neck 
being any other color than blue betrays 
it to be stale. In the hind- quarter, try 
the kidney with your nose ; the faintness 
of its smell will prove it to be stale. It 
loses much of its nicety of flavor after it 
reaches four months old. It ought, there- 
fore, to be small and white in appear- 
ance, and well covered with fat ; the 
younger the more delicate. 

Pork. — The rind should be thin, the 
fat very firm, and the lean white; the 
principal point to be observed is the firm- 



ness of the fat. If the rind is tough, 
thick, and cannot easily be impressed by 
the finger, it is old. Pigs that are short 
in the legs and bodies, and have thick 
necks, and not long heads and ears, 
are always to be preferred. When fresh, 
the flesh will be smooth and dry ; if 
clammy, it is tainted. What is called 
"measly pork" is very unwholesome, 
and may be known by the fat being full 
of kernels. Pork fed at still-houses does 
not answer for curing in any way, the 
fat being spongy. Dairy pork is the 
best. 

Porkers from three to four months 
old are the most delicate, and six months 
is the latest age at which they should be 
killed as sjich. 

Bacon. — If the rind be thin, the fat 
firm and of a reddish tinge, the lean ten- 
der, of a good color, and adhering to the 
bone, you may conclude it is good and 
not old. If there are yellow streaks in 
it, it is rusty. 

For hams, stick a sharp knife under 
the bone, and also up to the knuckle. If 
it comes out with a pleasant smell, the 
ham is good ; but do not buy it if the 
knife has a bad scent. Hams short in 
the hock are best ; nor should long-le^ed 
pigs be chosen for any purpose. 

Brawn. — The homy part of the young 
brawn will feel moderately tender, and 
the flavor will be better than the old, the 
rind of which will be hard. 

Venison. — The fat should be clear, 
bright, and thick ; and if the cleft of the 
haunch be smooth and close, it is younr^ ; 
but if the cleft is close and tough, it is 
old. To judge of its sweetness, run a very 
sharp narrow knife into the shoulder or 
haunch, and you will know by the scent. 
Few people like it when it has much of 
the haut-gout ; but it bears keeping bet- 
ter than any sort' of meat, and if eaten 
fresh killed it is not so good as mutton. 
Observe the neck of a fore-quarter ; if the 



58 



TITE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



vein be bluish, it is fresh ; if it have a 
green or yellow cast, it is stale. In the 
hind-quarter, if there is a faint smell un- 
der the kidney, and the knuckle is limp, 
the meat is stale. If the eyes be sunk, 
the head is not fresh. When you can 
learn where it has been reared, choose 
forest-venison, as that is the best; for 
some of the dealers stall-feed the deer, 
and fatten them with oil-cake. It should 
be full five years old. 

In every sort of provisions the best 
of the kind goes furthest, cuts up to 
greatest advantage, and affords most 
nourishment. Round of beef, fillet of veal, 
and leg of mutton, are joints that bear a 
higher price ; but as they have more solid 
meat, they deserve the preference. It is 
worth notice, however, that those joints 
which are inferior may be dressed as pala- 
tably, and, being cheaper, they ought to 
be bought in turn. 

In loins of meat, the long pipe that 
runs by the bone should be taken out, as 
it is apt to taint ; as also the kernels of 
beef. Rumps and aitchbones of beef are 
often bruised by the blows the drovers 
give the beasts, and the part that has 
been struck always taints ; therefore, do 
not purchase these joints if bruised. 

All meat should be carefully examined, 
and wiped with a dry cloth as soon as it 
comes in ; and if flies have blown upon 
it, the part must be cut off. This should 
be daily observed until it is dressed, as it 
not only tends to preserve the meat long 
in perfection, but prevents that musty 
flavor too often perceived in the outer 
slice when brought to table. 

In the country, where meat is often 
carried a great distance, it should be well 
covered up with a cloth, over which fresh 
cabbage-leaves would keep it cool. These 
cautious are more needful, as in some 
families great loss is sustained by the 
spoiling of meat. The fly may in some 
measure be prevented by dusting upon 
the parts most likely to be attacked, pep- 



per and ginger mixed, after wiping, 
which should never be omitted ; but a 
more easy and effectual mode is to ex- 
clude the fly by using a wire meat-safe, 
or to cover the joints with a long loose 
gauze or thin cloth, and hang them up 
from the ceiling of an airy chamber. 

In summer meat should be wiped every 
day, or sprinkled with pepper to keep off 
the flies ; and should it wear any appear- 
ance of becoming tainted, it should be 
brushed over with pyroligneous acid ; or 
even if already slightly infected, either 
the acid or roughlj^-pounded charcoal, if 
well rubbed into the meat, will restore 
it. The meat should also be brought in 
early in the morning, as, if much ex- 
posed to the sun, the heat will render it 
flabby. In frosty weather, meat is some- 
times in a congealed state, and should be 
thawed by soaking it in cold water before 
putting it to the fire. 

Meats become more tender, and conse- 
quently more digestible, as well as better 
flavored, by hanging ; but veal and lamb 
will not bear it so long as the flesh of 
older animals. In summer, two days is 
long enough for lamb and veal, and from 
three to four for beef and mutton ; in 
cold weather, these latter may be kept 
for more than double that time without 
risk of being tainted. 

POULTKT AND GAME. 

Turlcey. — The cock bird when young 
has a smooth black leg with a short spur. 
The eyes bright and full, and moist sup- 
ple feet when fresh j the absence of these 
signs denotes age and staleness ; the hen 
may be judged by the same rules. 

Fowls like a turkey ; the young cock 
has a smooth leg and a short spur ; when 
fresh the vent is close and dark. Hens 
when young have smooth legs and combs ; 
when old these will be rough. 

Geese. — In young geese the feet and 
bills will be yellow and free from hair 



TO CHOOSE FISH. 



59 



When fresh the feet are pliable; they 
are stifif when stale. 

Ducks may be selected by the same 
rule. 

Pigeons, when fresh, have supple feet, 
and the vent will be firm ; if it be dis- 
colored and supple they are stale. 

Plovers, when fat, have hard 'vents ; 
but, like almost all other birds, may be 
chosen by the same rules. 

Other game birds may be chosen by 
the above rules. 

TO CHOOSE FISH. 

Fish. — In every sort of fish, stifiness, 
redness of the gills, and brightness of the 
eyes, are invariable signs of freshness ; 
tliickness of the flesh generally marks 
the good condition of all fish, and its 
firmness is an essential requisite. Fish, 
when quite fresh, curl round, but are par- 
ticularly elastic, rising immediately upon 
the pressure of the fingers ; and their 
staleness or freshness may be measured 
by the possibility of making an impres- 
sion. If stale, the impression will re- 
main ; but, if fresh, it will rise again on 
removal of the pressure. 

Salmon. — The fish stiff", the scales very 
bright, the belly thick, the gills a bril- 
liant color, and the flesh when cut, a 
beautiful red, will prove it to be a fine 
fresh fish. It cannot be too fresh. 

Cod. — The best fish are thick at the 
neck, very red gills, firm white flesh, 
bright and blood-shot eyes, and small 
head. The liver should be of an opaque 
white ; the whiter, the better the fish ; 
when out of season the liver becomes 
red. It is improved by being crimped, 
as this increases its firmness, and then 
it requires keeping one day before using. 
Whitings. — A clear color and firm 
bodies, indicate a superior quality. 

Mackerel. — Bright eyes, thick bodies, 
stripes black on the back, the prismatic 
colors very predominant on the belly, 



denote freshness and goodness. The 
male is the best ; his stripes are straight ; 
those of the female, wavy. 

Pike, Carp, Perch, Smelts, Gudgeons, 
^c, may be judged by the above rules. 

Eels. — The bright silver-hued belly 
and thickness of back, are the guides in 
their selection^ 

Lobsters. — To be had in perfection 
should be boiled at home ; choose the 
heaviest. When they are boiled the tail 
should have a good spring ; the cock lob- 
ster has a narrow tail in which the two 
uppermost fins are stiff" and hard ; the 
hen has a broad tail, and these fins are 
softer. The male has the best flavor ; 
the flesh is firmer ; and the color when 
boiled is brighter than the hen. 

Oysters. — There are many sorts of 
oysters ; when the oyster is alive the 
shell will close upon the knife ; the com- 
mon oyster should be used for sauce, and 
the natives, of which there are several 
,kinds, should be sent to table. 



CHAPTER XI. 

Under the head of Domestic Manipu- 
lation, we propose giving a series of arti- 
cles on the numerous and essential 
manual operations that are constantly 
required in every family, and which, 
whether they are well or ill done, must 
of necessity be performed. The term 
Domestic Manipulation, employed in the 
widest sense, would include all the man- 
ual operations required in a house, but 
we propose to limit it to such as partake 
in a slight degree of a scientific charac- 
ter ; thus the operations of Filtering, De- 
canting, Weighing, Measuring, Bottling, 
Corking, Unstoppering, Pounding, Heat- 
ing, Boiling, Distilling, Cementing, &c. 
&c. will be included ; whilst Dusting, 
Washing, and Scrubbing, though no less, 



60 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



in strictness, manipulations, will be 
passed over in silence. 

We propose treating of the manipula- 
tions connected with Bottles and De- 
canters, &c., under the following heads : 
Cleaning, Drj-ing, Corking, Tying down. 
Stoppering, and Uns topper ing. 

Cleaning. — Perhaps ng more effectual 
and easy mode of cleaning wine and beer 
bottles can be recommended than thal^ 
commonly adopted, viz., the use of small 
shot and water ; in the case of old port 
wine bottles, however, it often occurs 
that the mechanical action of the shot 
does not remove the hardened crust from 
the interior; a small quantity of pearl- 
ash or soda, or still better, washing 
liquids, added to the water, will soften 
the crust sufficiently to permit its easy 
removal. There is, however, one objec- 
tion to the use of shot for the purpose 
of cleaning bottles ; unless due care be 
taken, by the violence of the shaking it 
often happens that several become firmly 
wedged between the bottom and sides of 
the bottles, and are not removed by the 
subsequent rinsings of clean water, and 
if the bottles are used for acid wines or 
other liquids, (almost all home-made 
wines contain a considerable portion of 
free acid,) the shots are slowly dissolved ; 
and from the metallic arsenic which they 
contain, as well as from the lead itself, 
the liquid is rendered poisonous. This 
effect may be readily guarded against by 
removing any shots which may have be- 
come fixed, by a stiff wire slightly 
hooked at the end. 

Decanters are formed of flint glass, 
which is much softer and more readily 
scratched than the common kinds ; they 
require therefore a less rough treatment ; 
in general, warm (not boiling) water, 
with the addition of a few pieces of coarse 
brown paper, and if requisite a little soda, 
will be found effectual ; should greater 
force be required, a small portion of tow 



wrapped round the notched end of a 
moderately stiff wire, and used with a 
little strong soda, will be found sufficient. 
Sand or ashes should never be employed 
in cleaning decanters, as they roughen 
and totally disfigure the brilliant surface 
of the glass. 

Drying. — It ' is scarcely necessary to 
speak of the advantages of being able to 
dry thoroughly both decanters and com- 
mon bottles ; if the former, after having 
been cleaned, are put away wet, they be- 
come musty ; and many liquids are much 
injured by being put into wet bottles. 
Some of our readers have doubtless ex- 
perienced the inefBciency of the ordinary 
means of drying decanters, &c. ; after 
draining for some days they still remain 
damp, and if placed near a fire the 
warmth merely drives the vapor to the 
colder part of the vessel ; they may, how- 
ever, be readily and quickly dried after 
draining, by making them slightly warm 
and blowing in fresh air with a pair 
of bellows, which rapidly carries out the 
damp vapor, and leaves the vessel per- 
fectly dry. If bellows are not at hand, the 
damp air may be drawn out (not blown) 
with the mouth, assisted by a tube suffi- 
ciently long to reach neai'ly to the bot- 
tom of the decanter ; in the laboratory a 
piece of glass tube is usually taken, being 
always at hand, but for domestic use a 
piece of paper may be rolled up so as to 
form an extemporaneous and effectual 
substitute. 

Corking. — Little can be said with re- 
gard to the corking of bottles, beyond 
stating the fact that cheap bad corks are 
always dear; the best corks are soft, 
velvety, and free from large pores ; if 
squeezed they become more elastic and 
fit more closely. If good corks are used 
of sufficiently large size to be extracted 
without the corkscrew, they may be em- 
ployed many times in succession, especi- 
ally if they are soaked in boiling water 



DOMESTIC MANIPULATION. 



61 



afterwards, which restores them to their 
original shape, and renews their elas- 
ticity. 

Tying down. — The operation of tying 
down corks merits a longer notice, as 
without it many eifervescent liquids could 
not be preserved. The most common 
mode of fastening down corks, is with 
the ginger-beer knot, which is thus made : 
First 'the loop is formed as in Fig. 1, 





Fig. 1. 
then that part of the string which passes 
across the loop is placed on the top of 
the cork, and the loop itself passed down 
around the neck of the bottle, and by 
pulling the ends of the 
cord is made tight beneath 
the rim ; the ends of the 
string are finally brought 
up, and tied either in a 
double knot, or in a bow on ^^ . ^ 
the top of the cork. When ginger-beer is 
made at home, it will be found most ad- 
vantageous to use the best corks, and to tie 
them down with a bow, when both corks 
and strings may be made use of re- 
peatedly. 

For effervescent wines, such as cham- 
pagne, gooseberry, &c., which require to 
be kept a longer time, and are more valu- 
able, a securer knot is desirable, which 
may be made thus : — A loop as in Fig. 



bottle ; the part a being on one side, and 
the two parts of the loop on the other ; 




Fig. 3. 
2 is first formed, and the lower end is 
then turned upwards and carried behind 
the' loop as shown at Fig. 3 ; it is then 
pulled through the loop as in Fiq. 4, and 
in this state is put over the neck of the 




Fig. 4. 
on pulling the two ends the whole be- 
comes tight round the neck, and the ends, 
which should be quite opposite, are to 
be brought up over the cork, twice twist- 




Fig. 5. 
ed, as in Fig. 5, and then tied in a single 
knot. 

Stoppering. — The stoppering of bottles 
is an operation usually performed by the 
makers ; it may, however, be useful to 
know that badly fitting stoppers may be 
readily fitted by regrinding ; this is done 
by dipping the stopper in a mixture of 
fine sand, or stiU better, emerj- and wa- 
ter, replacing it, and turning it backwards 
and forwards with a slight pressure; 
fresh sand must be applied from time to 
time. When the fitting is exact, so that 
the stopper turns freely without shaking, 
the whole may be finished off by using a 
little fine emery and oil. 

Unstoppering. — This operation is much 
more likely to be required than the last 
one described, for the stoppers of decan- 
ters, smelling-bottles, &c., from various 
causes, frequently become fixed, and 
many are the fractures both of bottles 
and stoppers, caused bj^ the misdirected 
efforts to remove them. In treating of 
the various means that may be employed 



62 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



we will mention them in the order in 
which they should be tried, beginning 
with the simpler and more easy, and pass- 
ing on to those which are more effectual, 
and at the same time, unfortunately, more 
dangerous. The first method, then, that 
should be tried, is to press the stopper 
upwards with the fore-finger and thumb 
of the left hand (the other fingers hold- 
ing the neck of the bottle), and at the 
same time giving the stopper a succession 
of short, sharp, light taps, with the wood- 
en handle of a chisel, knife, or small ham- 
mer ; care must be taken not to strike 
the stopper with sufficient force to break 
it, and it should be borne in mind that 
it is not the force of the blow, but the 
vibration, or jar, which is effectual in 
loosening it ; should this plan be found 
ineffectual after a short trial, it may 
probably be from the stopper being 
cemented by some substance, such as the 
dried sugar of a sweet wine. In such 
cases we should endeavor to dissolve the 
cement by a suitable solvent, which 
should be placed in the groove between 
the stopper and the bottle; thus if the 
stopper is cemented with sugar, gum, or 
salt, water may be used ; in many circum- 
stances, oil is advantageous, or spirit, or 
even strong acid may be used ; whatever 
liquid is employed it should be allowed 
to remain some days, being renewed if 
requisite, and the tapping, &c., should be 
again had recourse to. 

Should these methods fail, a piece of 
cloth may be dipped in very hot water 
and wrapped round the neck of the bot- 
tle, when the heat causes the expansion 
of the glass, and if the stopper be tapped 
or twisted before the heat has had time 
to enlarge it, its removal may be effected ; 
this operation must necessarily be a quick 
one, for if the stopper is heated and en- 
larged, as well as the bottle, it is obvious 
that no benefit will result. In the labo- 
ratory it is often customary to heat the 
bottle, not by a strip of cloth dipped in 



hot water, but by turning it rapidly over 
the flame of a lamp ; in this way there is 
more danger of cracking the bottle, and 
the plan is not to be recommended in 
general, although emploj^ed with consid- 
erable success by those who, like opera- 
tive chemists, are constantly in the habit 
of applying heat to glass vessels. It will 
at once be seen that the plan is fraught 
with great danger if applied to bottles 
containing inflammable liquids, as spirits, 
&c. 

The most effectual mode of removing 
stoppers, especially those of small bottles, 
such as smelling-bottles, remains to be 
described. Take a piece of strong cord, 
about a yard or four feet in length, dou- 
ble it at the middle, and tie a knot {Fig. 
6, ?') so as to form a loop (a) of about 
5 



Fig. 6. 

four inches in length at the doubled end, 
bring the knot close to one side of the 
stopper, and tie the ends tightly together 
on the opposite side, as at Fig. 7, e, so as to 




Fig. T. 
fasten the string securely round the neck 
of the stopper ; now pass one of the ends 
through the loop (a), and then tie it firm- 
ly to the other end ; tliO doubled cord is 
then to be placed over a bar or other 
support, then if the bottle is surrounded 
by a cloth to prevent accidents in case 
of fracture, and pulled downwards with 
a jerk, the force of which is gradually in- 
creased, it will be found that in a short 
time the stopper is liberated. Two pre- 



DOMESTIC MANIPULATION. 



63 



cautions are requisite ; one is, that the 
strain on both sides of the stopper is 
equal ; the other, that care be taken that 
when the stopper is liberated, it is not 
dashed by the rebound against any hard 
substance, which would cause its fracture. 



CUTTING, GRINDING, AND WRITING ON 
GLASS. 

We have described the most advanta- 
geous modes of extracting fixed stoppers 
from decanters, &c. It is possible that 
some of our readers may have followed 
our advice sufficiently well to have suc- 
ceeded, in cracking the necks of their 
decanters. In case any should have been 
so unfortunate, or rather we would say, 
if we were quite sure we were not ad- 
dressing ladies — so clumsy, let them not 
despair ; dexterity in manipulation comes 
by practice ; and as no evil is without a 
remedy, we will next consider what can 
be done with the broken decanter. Un- 
less it is cracked down to the bottom, it 
may be cut off and converted into a hand- 
some sugar basin ; or if not high enough 
for that purpose, will serve for a pickle- 
dish, or a flower-stand, &c. ; and in the 
same way, a tumbler broken at the upper 
part will furnish an elegant salt-cellar, 
or serviceable soap-dish; and even com- 
mon bottles, if sufficiently stout, may be 
made into useful jars, instead of being 
consigned to the dust-heap. 

The operation of cutting glass, con- 
sists in leading a crack in the required 
direction ; this is readily done by a hot 
iron rod, a piece of pointed burning char- 
coal, or, what is still better, a burning 
pastile — which is somewhat similar in 
its composition to those used for fumi- 
gation ; and which latter, although rather 
expensive, and inconvenient from their 
shape, may be applied for the purpose. 
When the operation of cutting up glass 
vessels into useful forms is much had re- 



course to, pastiles are prepared for the 
purpose, being superior to a heated iron 
rod, as they continue to burn and retain 
their heat, whilst the latter requires to be 
re-heated, if the crack has to be led any 
considerable distance. Pastiles are read- 
ily made by rubbing up half an ounce 
of powdered gum tragacanth with water, 
so as to form a mucilage about as thick 
as ordinary starch; this should be al- 
lowed to remain a few hours, and then 
mixed with a quarter of an ounce of ben- 
zoin, previously dissolved in the smallest 
possible quantity of proof spirit ; after 
mixing them together in a mortar, as 
much powdered charcoal should be added 
as will form a stiff paste, and the whole 
well worked together, rolled into sticks 
the size of a common black-lead pencil, 
and dried. As thus prepared, they 
should be free from cracks, and sohd 
throughout ; and on being ignited at the 
end, they will burn steadily away to a 
point. If an iron rod is used, it should 
be nearly as stout as the little finger, 
and taper at the end for an inch and a 
half to a blunt point. Before commen- 
cing the line along which it is wished to 
divide the glass, it should be marked 
with a pen and ink, and allowed to dry, 
when the iron, heated to dull redness, 
on the lighted extremity of the pastile, 
should be brought to the end of a crack, 
being held in a slanting direction with 
regard to the glass, as shown in the cut, 
and slowly moved in an oblique direc- 
tion towards the line ; the crack will be 
found to follow the heated point, and 
may thus be led as required, even pass- 
ing over parts varying \exy considerably 
in thickness, as in the case of the flut- 
ings on a cut decanter; but it cannot, 
with certainty, be made to pass suddenly 
from a very thin to a very stout part, or 
the reverse : thus it may be led around 
the sides of a tumbler, but could hardly 
be made to pass down one side, across 



64 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



the bottom and up the other. The ra- 
pidity with which the operation is per- 
formed, depends upon the heat of the 
iron or pastile ; if the former is very hot, 
or the latter made to burn more viv- 
idly by blowing upon it, the operation is< 
quickened, but it is not performed with 
so much certainty, as the crack may pass 
on further than is desirable : care should 
be taken not to lead the crack too near 




the edge of the vessel, or to another 
crack, as in that case it is apt to leave 
the proper course, and fly sviddenly to 
the edge, to which an inexperienced op- 
erator should not attempt to go nearer 
than half an inch. 

It sometimes occurs that a 'piece is 
broken out of a glass, without leaving 
any crack to commence from ; in this 
case, one must be made, by heating the 
edge (one formed by the fracture, if pos- 
sible) with the iron or pastile, and in- 
stantly applying the moistened finger. 
When a crack is formed, which may be 
used as described above, care must be 
taken not to cause an extensive fracture, 
which may nm across the intended line 
of division ; this may be avoided by com- 
mencing the crack at some distance from 
the line, and by applying the heated point 
for a very short time, preferring to make 
two or three unsuccessful attempts rather 
than to hasten the operation, and risk 
the destruction of the glass. When a 
glass vessel has been thus divided, the 
edges are suflQcicntly sharp to cut the 
fingers in handling, and are usually 



wavy ; it is therefore necessary to make 
them smooth and even. The most ready 
way of doing this is, by grinding them 
down on a flat sandstone, or ordinary 
paving-stone, with a little sharp sand or 
emery, and water, taking care to move 
the glass in a circular direction, and not 
merely backwards and forwards; the 
smoothness of the whole will depend en- 
tirely on that of the stone, and on the 
fineness of the sand or emery employed. 
If, from any irregularity, there is much 
glass to grind away, it is preferable to 
commence with sand, and finish with 
emery on a smooth stone ; if the edges 
are not thus ground down, they should 
have the sharp angles, which are really 
dangerous, removed by a fine file, which 
should be moistened with oil of turpen- 
tine or camphene, as this liquid has an 
extraordinary effect in increasing the 
action of the file upon the glass, and at 
the same time protecting the steel instru- 
ment from wear. 

Advantageous as cracks are in glass 
vessels whenever we wish to separate 
them into two parts, they are by no 
means desirable under other circumstan- 
ces ; and it is as important to know how 
to stop their progress, as to lead them 
forward. This is readily done in stout 
glass, by drilling a hole about half an 
inch in advance of the crack, which 
gradually passes on into it, and then its 
farther progress is arrested. Holes may 
be drilled in glass with a common drill 
and bow, the place being first marked 
with a file or flint, and the drill point 
kept wet with oil of turpentine. It is 
hardly necessary to state, that a crack 
existing in the neck of a decanter, and 
liable to be forced apart with the stopper, 
could not be arrested in its progress by 
such means. If necessary, a little emery 
powder may be used with oil of tur- 
pentine ; and after the operation, the hole 
must be filled up with some cement ; il 



the vessel is to be used for holding liquids, 
a little fresh slacked lime, moistened 
with equal parts of white of egg and 
water, may be used for this purpose. 

The grinding of glass on a flat stone 
with sand or emery, and water, is often 
useful in making a bottle stand steadily ; 
and by its means a wineglass with a 
broken foot may be turned to good ac- 
count ; for if as much of the stem as pos- 
sible is knocked off, by striking it with 
the back of a knife, the remainder may 
be ground away so that the vessel will 
stand. 

One of the most important Dome, tic 
Manipulations, although one of the most 
simple and easy, is the labelling of glass 
vessels. It is not too much to affirm, 
that scores of lives might have been 
saved if this had been attended to. In 
c&ses of accidental poisoning, we usually 
find that the victim has drunk from some 
bottle which has been put away without 
a label ; and thus some corrosive liquid 
used for cleaning, or some poisonous 
lotion, has been inadvertently swallowed. 
One of the most ready modes of label- 
ling glass, and other objects, consists in 
havmg at hand a sheet of paper, which 
has had spread on one side some gum 
water, mixed with half its weight of 
coarse brown sugar, and allowed to dry ; 
this may be cut into labels, written on, 
and readily attached to glass by moisten- 
ing with the tongue ; the white margin 
of a sheet of postage stamps answers 
the purpo.~e very well. If, however, acid 
liquids are used, or the vessel is placed 
in a damp situation, as a cellar, other 
means must be had recourse to. With 
a little practice, it is easy to write in a 
legible, though not very conspicuous man- 
ner, on glass, with a gun-tlint, or with 
the sharp-edged fragments of common 
flint. In the laboratory what is called a 
icriting diamond is used for this purpose ; 
this should not be confounded with a 



glazier's diamond, which is used for di- 
viding, and not scratching glass. We 
would here caution our readers against 
writing on glass with a diamond ring, 
&c., as the practice injures the jewel con- 
siderably ; in the glazier's diamond, the 
natural edges of the cr3'stal are used, 
which are not liable to injury as are the 
cut angles of a brilliant. 

When glass vessels are exposed to 
damp, the best mode of writing on them 
is to prepare an ink for the purpose, by 
mixing the common cheap varnish, called 
Brunswick black, with half its weight of 
oil of turpentine, or what is the same 
thing, in a purer state, camphene ; this 
should be kept in a closely corked bottle, 
and used with a broad nibbed quill pen ; 
it soon dries, and though pale, is very 
distinct, and almost imperishable. If it 
is required much darker, about a quarter 
of an hour after it has been done a little 
lampblack should be rubbed over it, 
with cotton or wadding, when it imme- 
diately becomes as black as common ink, 
and resists damp, and rubbing or wiping 
with either wet or dry cloths for a very 
long time. The same ink is equally 
advantageous for use with white earthen- 
ware ; and although we have never had 
occasion to use such a mixture, there is 
no doubt that a little whiting mixed thin 
with an}^ common varnish, would furnish 
an equally useful ink for writing on black 
bottles. 

CHAPTER XII. 

DECANTING, STRAINING, AND FILTER- 
ING OF LIQUIDS. 

The decanting of liquids is, under or- 
dinary circumstances, an operation suffi- 
ciently simple to require no explanation ; 
but the ease and certainty with which it 
can be performed, depend entirely upon 
the form of the ves.sel from which the 
liquid is poured ; the adhesion existing 
between liquids and sohds giving rise to 



66 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



a tendency in the former to run down 
the outside of the vessel ; and if the 
latter is nearly full, or very large in cir- 
cumference, or the sides approach the 
perpendicular direction, this accident 
almost always occurs. The difficulty of 
returning a glass of wine to the decanter, 
or of pouring from one full tumbler into 
another, are well known examples of this 
inconvenience. 

Advantage may, however, be taken of 
the adhesion of liquids to solids, and by 
it the former may be led into the re- 
quired direction. This cannot be better 
illustrated than by a description of the 
means by which a glass of wine may be 
returned, without spilling, to the decan- 
ter. If a teaspoon is dipped into the 
wine, so as to become wetted with it. and 
then held perpendicularly with the bowl 
downwards, and the point over, but not 
touching, the entrance into the decanter, 
and the edge of the glass be made to 
touch the back of the spoon, it will be 
found, on inclining the former, that the 
wine, having a perpendicular solid body 
to adhere to and run down, will do so in 
preference to trickling along the oblique 
outer surface of the wineglass; and in 
this mode a liquid may be poured steadily 
out of any similar vessel with so little 
disturbance as not to agitate any sedi- 
ment that may exist in it. In the lab- 
oratory of the chemist, a piece of glass 
rod is usually employed for this purpose ; 
but a spoon, or pencil, or any similar sub- 
stance having a surface capable of being 
wetted by the liquid, answers equally 
well. 

If, however, the vessel out of which it 
is wished to decant is large, very full, or 
the sides, on pouring, are neai'ly perpen- 
dicular, the plan is not successful ; thus, 
it could not be employed in aiding the 
tran.><fer of the liquid from one full tum- 
bler to another. Even this may be ac- 
complished vrithout the aid of a funnel, 
or without spilling, by preventing the 



adhesion of the liquid to the edge or side 
of the vessel out of which it is poured, 
which may be readily done by greasing 
the rim, when it will be found quite prac- 
ticable to pour out of a nearly full tum- 
bler without spilling. 

In many instances, the employment of 
a syphon in decanting will be found very 
advantageous, particularly when the con- 
taining vessel is large, and cannot be read- 
ily moved, or when there is any sediment 
which it is desirable not to disturb. The 
most simple form of this instrument con- 
sists of a tube, bent as in Fig. 1, with 
one leg shorter than the other ; this may 
be made of glass, pewter, or, in fact, of 
any kind of stiff tubing that will retain 
its form — a piece of gutta percha pipe, 
carefully bent by a moderate w'armth, 
whilst a piece of stout cord is in the in- 
terior to prevent the sides closing togeth- 
er, answers very well. Before use. the 
syphon must be filled with liquor ; this 
is best accomplished by turning it upside 
down, with the opening to the short leg 
raised on a level with that of the long 
one, when the liquid should be poured 
into the former. When both legs are 
filled, they should be closed with the fin- 
gers ; the shorter leg introduced into the 
liquid it is wished to draw off; and the 
opening of the longer leg brought to a 
lower level than that of the shorter, and 




Fig. 1. 
on removing the fingers the liquid will 
flow as in Fig. 1, until it is below the 
level of the short leg. If the syphon is 
made of small tubing, or is lessened at 



DOMESTIC MANIPULATION. 



67 



the opening so as not to exceed one quar- 
ter of an inch in diameter, there will be 
no occasion to close the end of more than 
one leg with the finger, as the liquid will 
not flow when it is brought to the proper 
position unless both orifices are open ; 
and thus the necessity of plunging the 
finger into the hquid is obviated, and the 
sj-phon can also be used with a narrow- 
necked bottle, into which the hand could 
not be passed. 

To do away with 
the necessity of filling 
the syphon before use, 
the instrument is usu- 
ally made with a suck- 
ing tube, as in Fig. 2 ; 
in this case, all that is 
requisite is, to intro- 
duce the short leg, 
close the opening to 
the long one, and by 
the action of the mouth, draw up the 
liquid until both legs are full, M-hen on 
removing the finger, the stream will flow. 
A very ingenious syphon of this kind is 
described by the German chemist Mohr; 
it is thus constructed : — Take a long Eau 
de Cologne bottle, and, with a file and 
turpentine, make a deep notch across, 
about an inch and a half from the bottom ; 
then, with a charcoal point or pastile, or 
hot iron, produce a crack, and cut off the 
bottom, grinding it smoothly ; then take 
a tube bent at an angle of forty-five de- 
grees, and, by means of a good cork, per- 
forated with a rat-tail rasp, fit it tightly 
in the bottom of the bottle, and add also 




Fig. 2. 




another piece of tubing for a suction tube; 
the whole will then have the appearance 
represented in Fig. 3, and will form an 
exceedingly useful, and very convenient 
syphon. 

In emptying large stone bottles or 
carboys, the following plan may be had 
recourse to: — Peiforato a sound cork 
with two openings by a rat-tail rasp, and 



Fig. 8. 




Fig. 4. 

fit, air-tight, two tubes bent as in Fiq. 4. 
On blowing through the upper, the liquid 
will be forced to ascend and run over the 
bend of the other, which will then act as 
a syphon. This plan is exfeedingly use- 
ful in emptying carboys of corrosive 
liquids, as oil of vitiiol, &c. ; and if all the 
joints are — as they should be — air-tight, 
the flow may be arrested by closing the 
upper tube with the finger. In the fig- 
ure tiie outer leg of the syphon is short- 
ened to save space ; in practice it must 
be of sufficient length to be lower than 
the inner leg within the ves.sel. 

If a syphon is required frequently for 
decanting the same kind of liquid, it is 
found troublesome to be constantly filling 
it before each time of using ; this trouble 
is obviated by the use of an instrument 



68 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



formed with legs of equal length, which 
are turned up at the ends, as in Fig. 5 ; 
this having been filled, may be hung up 
in the erect position, and the liquid will 
.v?=>\ not escape, but on plung- 

'A ing one end into a liquid, 

\\ it will be found immedi- 
\\ ately to flow from the 
• U other, provided that the 
ji 'V/; latter is below the level 

'^^^ . ofthe surface of the liquid. 

The operations of 
straining and filtering are frequently re- 
quired in domestic manipulations, and 
the apparatus employed usually consists 
of sieves and a jelly-bag. As, in many 
other instances, it will be found advanta- 
geous to import several contrivances from 
the laboratory to the kitchen, one of the 
most useful (because most simple) strain- 
ers consists of a square frame, formed of 
four pieces of wood nailed together at the 
corners, with a piece of calico, linen, or 
canvas, of suitable fineness, tacked to the 
four sides ; this strainer is particularly 
useful in separating any solid substance 
— as the residue in making wines — or if 
grated potatoes are put on one made of 
coarse cloth, the starch can be readily 
washed through, leaving the useless por- 
tion on the strainer; the cloth should 
not be tacked very loosely, as it bags 
down when any substance is put on it, 
and the liquid runs away below from the 
centre. This strainer is a most useful 
one ; it is readily made, of any degree of 
fineness, and of any size ; and it also pos- 
sesses the great advantage, that, if necessa- 
ry, the tacks fastening the cloth can easi- 
ly be withdrawn, when the substance 
remaining can be rolled up in the cloth, 
and tightly squeezed, to express the last 
portions of Uquid. 

In cases where a finer filtration is re- 
quired than can be obtained by means of 
a cloth, as in cleaning turbid wine or 
spirit, the use of tiltering-paper is recom- 



mended. This paper is merely a stouter 
kind of blotting-paper, thick varieties of 
which answer very well for domestic pur- 
poses ; it is most simply used by taking 
a square piece, folding it into half — by 
bringing the two opposite edges together 
— and then folding the oblong so obtain- 
ed across its length; by this means a 
small square is obtained, one quarter the 
original size, which may be opened into 
a hollow cup, having three thicknesses of 
paper on one side, and one on the other ; 
this is to be placed with the point down- 
wards, in a funnel, and the liquid poured 
in ; and as soon as the pores of the paper 
are expanded by the moisture, it will be 
found to flow through perfectly clear; 
care must be taken in making the filter, 
not to finger it much where the two fold- 
ings cross each other, as a hole is readily 
made at that part, and the filter spoiled. 
The objection to this simple contrivance 
is, that from its flat sides applying them- 
selves closely to those of the funnel, the 
flow of the liquid is impeded, and is. 
therefore, slow. This effect may be obvi- 
ated by the use of the plaited filter, the 
construction of which we will endeavor 
to describe. A square piece of filtering, 
or stout blotting-paper is to be doubled, 
and the oblong so obtained is to be again 
folded in half, when if the last fold is 
opened, it will have the appearance of 
Fig. 6. From the corners l> 6, folds are 
to be creased in the direction towards a, 
but not reaching it for half an inch ; these 
are indicated by the dotted lines, which 
I d h 



c • c 

Fig. 6. 
divide the double paper into four trian- 
gles, each of which is to be again folded 
into eighths, and care must be taken thaf 



DOMESTIC MANIPULATION. 



69 



all the folds are made the same way, that 
IS, projecting to the same side of the pa- 
per. When complete, the doubled and 
creased paper will appear as Fig. 7. Now 




Fig. 7. 
divide each eighth into half, by a fold in 
the opposite direction to those previously 
made, when it will be found that the 
whole will readily fold up like a paper 
fan ; the projecting loo^se ends which are 
formed by the corners 5, should be cut 
oflf, and the double sides separated for the 
first time by blowing them apart, when 
the whole may be readily opened out as 
in Ficj. 8. In making 
this filter, which takes 
a much less time than 
to follow the descrip- 
tion, two precautions 
are requisite. The 
folds should be made 
at once with one firm 
pressure, and not with 
a series of rubbings ; 
and all the creases should stop short of 
the middle, otherwise a hole will be made 
at that point, long before the filter is 
completed. The advantages of this filter 
are that it exposes a large surface for the 
liquid to pa.ss through ; and from its only 
being in contact with the funnel where 
the angles project, the current flows 
away readily. 

The best means for filtration of water, 
and the construction of water filters, will 
be treated of when we speak of the " do- 
mestic manipulation" connected with 
that liquid. 




Fig. 8, 



CHAPTER XIII. 

THE MANUFACTURE AND USE OF CEMENTS. 

The term cement, includes all those 
substances employed for the purpose of 



causing the adhesion of two or more 
bodies, whether originally separate, or 
divided by an accidental fracture. As 
the substances that are required to be 
connected together are exceedingly vari- 
ous, and differ very much in their proper- 
ties as to texture, &c., &c., and as the 
conditions under which they are placed, 
with regard to heat and moisture, are 
also exceedingly variable, a number of 
cements, possessed of very different 
properties, are required; for a cement 
that answers admirably under one set of 
circumstances, may be perfectly useless 
in others. A vast number of cements 
are known and used hi the various arts ; 
but they may all be referred to a few 
classes, and our object in this paper will 
be to describe the manufacture and use 
of the best of each class, and also to state 
what are the general principles upon 
which the success or failure of cement- 
ing usually depends. 

The different parts of a solid are held 
together by an attraction between their 
several particles, which is termed the at- 
traction of cohesion, or cohesive attrac- 
tion. The amount of this varies with 
the substances ; thus, the cohesion of the 
particles of iron to one another is enor- 
mously great, whilst that between those 
of chalk is but small. This attraction 
acts only when the particles are in the 
closest possible contact; even air must 
not be between them. The attraction 
of cohesion wliich takes place between 
the parts of the same substance, must 
not be confounded with that of adhesion, 
which is the attraction of different sub- 
stances to one another ; for example, the 
particles of a piece of wood are united by 
cohesive attraction, whilst the union of 
glue and wood to each other depends on 
adhesive attraction. And it is important 
that this distinction be borne in mind, 
for, in almost all cases, the cohesion be- 
tween the particles of the cement is very 
much less than the adhesion of tho 



70 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



cement to other bodies ; and if torn 
apart, the connected joint gives way — 
not by the loosening of the adhesion — 
but by the layer of cement splitting 
down the centre. Hence the important 
rule, that the less cement in a joint, the 
stronger it is. Domestic manipulators 
usually reverse this, by letting as much 
cement as possible remain in the joint, 
which is, therefore, necessarily a weak 
one. A thick, nearly solid cement, which 
cannot be pressed out of the joint, is al- 
ways inferior to a thinner one, of which 
merely a connecting film remains between 
the united surfaces. 

Having thus mentioned the general 
principles that ought always to be borne 
in mind, we will now proceed to describe 
tlie manufiicture of some of the more use- 
ful cements, and their mode of use. 

Mouth Glue affords a very convenient 
means of uniting papers, and other small 
light objects ; it is made by dissolving 
by the aid of heat, pure glue, or gelatine, 
\<-ith about one quarter or one-third of 
its weight of coarse brown sugar, in as 
small a quantity of boiling water as pos- 
sible ; this, when perfectly liquid, should 
be cast into thin cakes on a flat surface 
very slightly oiled, and as it cools. cut up 
into pieces of a convenient size. When 
required for use one end may be moist- 
ened by the mouth, and is then ready to 
be rubbed on any substances it may be 
wished to join ; a piece kept in the desk 
or work-box is very convenient. 

Paste is usually made by rubbing up 
flour with cold water and boiling ; if a lit- 
tle alum is mixed before boiling it is 
much improved, being less clammy, 
working more freely in the brush and 
thinner ; a less quantity is required, and 
it is therefore stronger. If required in 
large quantity, as for papering rooms, it 
may be made by mixing one quartern of 
flour, one quarter poimd of alum and a 
little warm water ; when mixed, the re- 



quisite quantity of boiling water should 
be poured on whilst the mixture is 
being stirred. Paste is only adapted to 
cementing paper ; when used it should 
be spread on one side of the paper, which 
should then be folded with the pasted 
side inwards, and allowed to remain a few 
minutes before being opened and used ; 
this swells the paper, and permits its 
being more smoothly and securely at- 
tached. Kept for a few days, paste be- 
comes mouldy, and after a short time 
putrid ; this inconvenience may be ob- 
viated by the use of — 

Permanent Paste, made by adding to 
each half-pint of flour paste without 
alum, fifteen grains of corrosive sublimate, 
previously rubbed to powder in a mortar, 
the whole to be well mixed ; this, if pre- 
vented from drj'ing, by being kept in a 
covered pot, remains good any length of 
time, and is therefore convenient; but 
unfortunately it is extremely poisonous, 
though its excessively nauseous taste 
would prevent its being swallowed ac- 
cidentally ; it possesses the great ad- 
vantage of not being liable to the attacks 
of insects. 

Liquid Glue is made 'by dissolving 
shell-lac in water, by boiling it with 
borax, which possesses the peculiar 
property of causing the solution of the 
resinous lac. This preparation is con- 
venient for its cheapness and freedom 
from smell, but it gives way if exposed 
to long-continued damp, which that made 
with naphtha resists. 

Of the use of common glue, very little 
need be said ; it should also be prepared 
in a glue-pot or double vessel to prevent 
its being burned, which injures it very 
materially. The objection to the use of 
this contrivance is, that it renders it im- 
possible to heat the glue in the inner 
vessel to the boiling point ; this incon- 
venience can be obviated by employing 
in the outer vessel some liquid, which 



DOMESTIC MANIPULATION. 



71 



boils at a higher temperature than pure 
water, such as saturated solution of salt. 
This boils at 224° Fahr., 12° above the 
heat of boiling water, and enables the 
glue in the inner vessel to be heated to 
a much higher temperature than when 
pure water is employed. If a saturated 
solution of nitre is used, the temperature 
rises still higher. 

Waterproof Cements are very numer- 
ous ; a very good one for uniting china 
and glass will be found elsewhere. It 
should be stated, however, that the gum 
ammoniac should be also dissolved in a 
small quantity of spirit. Mastic, used 
instead of ammoniac, makes a clearer 
cement. This mixture, under various 
fanciful titles, is usually sold at a most 
exorbitant rate. 

Lime and Egg Cement is frequently 
made by moistening the edges to be 
united, with white of egg, dusting on 
some lime from a piece of muslin, and 
bringing the edges into contact. A much 
better mode is to slake some freshly 
burned lime with a siflall quantity of 
hoiling water ; this occasions it to fall 
into a very fine dry powder, if excess of 
water has not been added. The white 
of egg used should be intimately and 
thoroughly mixed, by beating, with an 
equal bulk of water, and the slaked 
lime added to the mixture, so as to form 
a thin paste which should be used 
speedily, as it soon sets. This is a valu- 
able cement, possessed of great strength, 
and capable of withstanding boiling 
water. Cements made with lime and 
blood, scraped cheese, or curd, may be 
regarded as inferior varieties of it. 
Cracked vessels, of earthenware and 
glass, may often be usefully, though not 
ornamentally repaired by white lead 
spread on strips of calico, and secured 
with bands of twine. But in point of 
strength^ all ordinary cements yield the 
palm to Jefifery's Patented Marine Glue, a 



compound of India-rubber, shell-lac, and 
coal-tar naphtha. When applied to china 
or glass, the substances should be cau- 
tiously made hot enough to melt the 
glue, which should then be rubbed on the 
edges so as to become fluid, and the parts 
brought into contact immediately. When 
well applied, the mended stem of a com- 
mon tobacco-pipe will break at any other 
part, in preference to the junction. The 
color of the glue unfortunately prevents 
its being used. 

The Reel Cement, which is employed 
by instrument- makers for cementing 
glass to metals, and which is very cheap, 
and exceedingly useful for a variety of 
purposes, is made by melting five parts 
of black resin, one part of yellow wax, 
and then stirring in, gradually, one part 
of red ochre or Venetian red, in fine 
powder, and previously well dried. This 
cement requires to be melted before use, 
and it adheres better if the objects to 
which it is applied are warmed. A soft 
cement, of a somewhat similar character, 
may be found useful for covering the 
corks of preserved fruit, and other bot- 
tles, and it is made by melting yellow 
wax with an equal quantity of resin, or of 
common turpentine, (not oil of turpen- 
tine, but the resin), using the latter for 
a very soft cement, and stirring in, as 
before, some dried Venetian red. Bear- 
ing in mind our introductory remarks, 
it will be seen that the imiting broken 
substances. with a thick cement is disad- 
vantageous, the object being to bring the 
surfaces as closelj^ together as possible. 
As an illustration of a right and a wrong 
way of mending, we will suppose a plaster 
of Paris figure bi'oken ; the wrong way 
to mend it is by a thick paste of plaster, 
which makes, not a joint, but a botch. 
The right way to mend it, is by means of 
some well-made carpenter's glue, which, 
being absorbed into the porous plaster, 
leaves merely a film covering the two 



Y2 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



surfaces. If well done, the figure is 
stronger there than elsewhere. 

One useful substance is termed mastic 
cement, which is used for making a supe- 
rior coating to inside walls, and which 
must not be confounded with the resin 
mastic. It is made by mixing twenty 
parts of well-washed and sifted sharp 
sand, with two parts of litharge, and one 
of freshly burned and slaked quick-lime, 
in fine dry powder. This is made into a 
putty, by mixing with linseed oil ; it sets 
in a few hours, having the appearance of 
light stone ; and we mention it as it may 
be frequently employed with advantage 
in repairing broken stone-work (as stairs) 
by filling up the missing parts. The em- 
ployment of Roman cement, plaster, &c., 
for masonry work, hardly comes within 
the limits of Domestic Manipulation. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

DIVIDING, POWDERING, GRINDING, ETC. 

The operations of chopping, powder-^ 
ing, grinding, &c., are so frequently re- 
quired in cooking, and the other branches 
of domestic economy, as to render any 
description of their utility wholly unne- 
cessary ; and we may therefore confine 
ourselves to describing the best means 
of accomplishing the object desired. 
Powdering is usually performed by the 
aid of the pestle and mortar. Most of 
the works on Cookery recommend the 
use of a marble mortar ; this material 
is about one of the worst that could be 
selected for the purpose. In the first 
place, it is expensive ; secondly, it is ra- 
pidly corroded, even by the weak acids 
used for food; thirdly, it is readily 
stained by oily substances ; fourthly, it 
is absorptive of strong flavors, impart- 
ino- them readily to the next substance 
pounded; and lastly, it is brittle, and 



even if not broken, is not calculated to 
withstand much wear. By far the best 
material for the purpose is the Wedge- 
wood ware ; mortars made of it are 
cheaper, cleaner in use, and stronger than 
those of marble, and are not corroded by 
acids or alkalies — their pre-eminence is 
so great, that they are invariably used 
by druggists. 

The act of powdering requires great 
tact and practice to perform it neatly and 
rapidly. After the object has been bro- 
ken into small pieces by blows from the 
pestle, a grinding action is requited ; this 
should at first be given by striking the 
fragments, not in the centre of the mor- 
tar, but towards the side furthest from 
the operator ; the pestle, by this means, 
grinds over them in its descent to the 
centre, and much more rapidly accom- 
pHshes their division than if mere blows 
are given. After the object has been di- 
vided to a certain extent, blows are en- 
tirely useless, and a grinding in circles 
becomes requisite; if the circle is con- 
fined to one part of the mortar, the same 
portions get rubbed over and over again, 
the others escaping ; this is avoided by 
constantly and regularly altering the 
size of the circles. If they are com- 
menced in- the centre, they should grad- 
ually increase in size until the sides are 
reached, and then contract again, and so 
on. By this means the whole of the 
powder is brought un- 
der the action of the 
pestle, and the operation 
is much quicker than if 
performed at random. 
One great fault usually 
committed in powder- 
ing, is the endeavor to 
operate on too large a 
quantity of material at 
one time. The opera- 
tion is much ^ore ra- 
pidly conducted if small portions are ta- 




DOMESTIC MANIPULATION, 



73 



ken ; and if the material is tough, and 
contains much fibrous matter, the process 
may be very much shortened by remov- 
ing those parts which are suflBciently 
powdered, by sifting from time to time 
through a sieve. This may be objection- 
able, however, from the fine powder es- 
caping into the air ; in this ca,se, the fol- 
lowing contrivance will be found useful : 
A cylindrical tea-canister of the requi- 
site size is taken, with a loosely fitting 
lid (or if tight, the lid may be enlarged 
by four slits being made partly up the 
sides ) ; a bag of lawn is dropped into 
the canister, the top being turned over 
the edge ; the* powder to be sifted is put 
in a bag, the lid put on, and, by tapping 
and shaking, the finest portions pass into 
the canister without any escaping into 
the air — a point of very considerable im- 
portance where the powder is irritating 
or expensive. 

All vegetable, and many mineral sub- 
stances, are much more readily pow- 
dered after having been thoroughly dried ; 
so far is this process carried, that many 
drugs are dried so as to lose fifteen per 
cent, of their weight before* powdering. 
After drying, substances should not be 
exposed to the air, but, unless they are 
of such a nature as to be softened by 
heat, are better operated on whilst still 
warm. Flints are more readily powdered 
by being heated to redness and quenched 
in cold water ; charcoal, for tooth pow- 
der, whilst still warm from drying. 
Gum can only be powdered whilst per- 
fectly dry. Camphor, which is with 
great difficulty powdered alone, yields 
readily if a drop or two of spirit is 
poured on it. Substances which clog 
together and cake under the pestle, are 
not uncommon ; to these it is sometimes 
requisite to add sand, which may after- 
wards be separated — this prevents the 
clogging ; but its use is often impractica- 
ble. Lime, if required in very fine pow- 



der, for dusting over plants to kill slugs, 
&c., is readily obtained by slaking it, 
when fresh burned, with loUing water ; 
when, if too much water is not used, it 
falls into an exceedingly fine powder. 

Sal-ammoniac, and some other saline 
bodies, are most readily powdered by dis- 
solving them in as small a quantity of 
boiling water as possible, and stirring the 
solution rapidly as the water is boiled 
away, or as the solution cools. Before 
dismissing the pestle and mortar, we may 
allude to its use in mixing powders to- 
gether, although a much more ready mode 
of doing this is with a sieve. Two or 
more powders stirred together and passed 
two or three times through a sieve, are 
much more intimately mixed, than if 
rubbed for a long time in a mortar. 
Metals cannot be divided in the mortar ; 
the most convenient mode of proceeding, 
if they are fusible under a white heat, is 
to melt them, and pour them whilst 
liquid into a pail of water, which should 
be full to avoid any spluttering, and the 
hotter the metal, the more filmy the par- 
ticles. It is scarcely requisite to state, 
that the metal should be poured in a cir- 
cle, so as not to collect at one place. 

Chopping is usually performed in the 
kitchen, with a large common knife ; but 
is more speedily done by some of the 
improved contrivances similar to the fol- 
lowing : — The chopping-board should be 





Fig. 10. Fig. 11. 

made of hard wood, with the grain at 
right angles to the surface of the board, 



74 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



by which it is rendered much more dura- 
ble, than if they are parallel to it. The 
chopping-knivcs should be fixed at right 
angles to the handles, and may be either 
of the preceding patterns. If a large 
quantity of material has to be acted on, 
we would recommend a board as above, 
not less than three inches thick, and 
smooth on both sides, so that either may 
be used, of the requisite size — say eigh- 
teen inches or two feet in diameter. On 
this should stand a loose bottondess tub, 
to confine the materials, and the whole 
resting on the floor, should be used with 
a knife, sufBciently long in the handle to 
be employed by a person standing erect, 
and it should have a small cross-bar for 
the hands, as shown in Fig. 12. 

Small chopping-knives are sold, con- 
sisting of three blades riveted together ; 
and a very convenient one is made by 
fastening, at convenient distances, a num- 
ber of flat circular disks, sharpened at 
the edges, to a central axis with a han- 
dle at each end. 

Many substances, such as stale bread, 
dried herbs, &c., may be very conven- 
iently powdered by rubbing them through 




Fig. 12. 
a wire sieve, of the requisite degree of 
fineness. Herbs intended for use in this 
way, should be dried as rapidly as possi- 
ble, without being scorclied, in small 
heaps, before the fire ; parsley and others 
done in this way, may be powdered, re- 



taining their bright green color and fla- 
vor, both of which are preserved if they 
are corked tightly in bottles, and kept in 
a dry, dark cupboard. The use of waxed 
paper to preserve dried powders in, or for 
tying them down in jars, or generally as 
a very good substitute for bladder, will 
often be found convenient. It is readily 
made by layuig a sheet of smooth stout 
paper on a warm iron plate, as the top of 
a kitchen oven ; on this place the thin 
tissue or other paper to be waxed ; put 
a piece of wax on it, and as it melts, rub 
it over, spreading it evenly. One end of 
a cork, covered with two thicknesses of 
linen, answers very well 'for a rubber. 
If a hot plate is not at hand, the sheet 
of paper may be held before the fire, and 
rubbed over, as it warms, with the cut 
edge of a cake of white wax ; but this 
reqjaires the co-operation of two persons. 



CHAPTER XV. 

KNOTS, «>ACKAGES, PARCELS, ETC. 

The poet Crabbe, speaking of the writ- 
ing of the rustics, signing his parish reg- 
isters, says — 

" 'Tis strange that men 
Who guide the plough should fail to guide the pen 1 
For half a mile the furrows even lie ; 
For half an inch the letters stand awry." 

A parallel remark might with equal 
justice be made on the gentler sex, who, 
after exercising a degree of tact, neat- 
ness, and tasteful invention, that the self- 
styled "lords of the creation" might in 
vain hope to rival, in the formation of a 
piece of needlework, knitting, netting, or 
crochet, are, for the most part, totally 
unable, when it is finished, to tie it up so 
as to make a decent parcel ; ladies' pack- 
ages are, in fact, the opprobrium of the 
sex — the annoyance of all carriers, who 



DOMESTIC MAITIPULATION. 



75 



have any thing to do with their convey- 1 
ance, and the torment of their owners ; 
the cords are certain to become loose, the 
knots are sure to slip, except when a 
slip-knot is requisite, and then it is a fix- 
ture ! It is in the hope that we may be 
instrumental in improving this state of 
things, that we are induced to devote this 
chapter to Knots, Packages, Parcels, &c., 
and we shall at once lay before our fair 
readers a method of tying a parcel neatly 
and securely, and at the same time afford- 
ing facilities for releasing the contents 
without destroying the string by cutting 
it away — a too ordinary practice, espe- 
cially where time is an object. 

The most simple purpose for which a 
knot is required, is the fastening togeth- 




Fig. 18. 
er of two pieces of string or cord : the 
knot selected for this purpose should pos- 
sess two important properties ; — it should 
be secure from slipping, and of small size. 
Nothing is more common than to see two 
cords attached together in a manner sim- 
ilar to that shown in Fig. 13. It is 
scarcely possible to imagine a worse knot ; 
it is large and clumsy, and as the cords 
do not mutually press each other, it is 
certain to slip if pulled with any great 
force. In striking contrast to this — the 
worst of all, we place one of the best ; 
namely, the knot usually employed by 
netters, and which is called by sailors 
" the sheet-bend." It is readily made 
by bending one of the pieces of cord into 
a loop (a 5, Fig. 14), which is to be 
held between the finger and thumb of the 
left hand; the other cord c is passed 
through the loop from the farther side, 
then round behind the two legs of the 
loop, and lastly, under itself, the loose 
end coming out at d. In the smallness 



of its size, and the firmness with which 
the various parts grip together, this knot' 
surpasses every other: it 
can, moreover, be tied read- 
ily when one of the pieces, 
viz. a b, is exceedingly 
short; in common stout 
twine, less than an inch 
being sufiBcient to form the 
loop. The above method 
*of forming it is the sim- 
plest to describe, although 
not the most rapid in prac- 
tice ; as it may be made in 
much less time by crossing 
the two ends of cord (a 
&, Fig. 15) on the tip of 
the fore-finger of the left 
^C- ^^ hand, and holding them 
firmly by the left thumb, which covers 
the crossing; then the part c is to be 
b 





Fig. 16. 
wound round the thumb in a loop as 
shown in the figure, and passed between 
the two ends, behind a and before b ; the 
knot is completed by turning the end b 
downwards in front of <Z, passing it through 
the loop, securing it under the left thumb, 
and tightening the whole by pulling d. 
As formed in this mode, it is more rapidly 
made than almost any other knot ; and, 
as before stated, it excels all in security 



76 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



and compactness, so firmly do the various 
turns grip each other, that after having 
been tightly pulled, it is very difficult to 
untie ; this the only drawback to its use- 
fulness, and in this respect it is inferior 
to the reef-knot, Fig. 16, which is made 
in precisely the same manner that a shoe- 
string is tied, only pulling out the ends 
instead of leaving them as 
bows. The only precaution 
necessary in making a reef- 
knot is, to observe that the 
two parts of each string are 
on the same side of the loop ; 
if they are not, the ends (and 
the bows if any are formed) 
are at right angles to the 
cords ; the knot is less se- 
cure, and is termed by sailors 
a granny-knot. Other knots 
are occasionally used to con- 
nect two cords, but it is un- 
necessary to describe them, 
as every useful purpose may 
be answered by those above- 
mentioned. Fig. 16. 
The binding knot {Figs. 17 and 18) is 



r:^£ 





exceedingly useful in connecting broken 
sticks, rods, &c., but some difficulty is 
often experienced in fastening it at the 
finish ; if, however, the string is placed 
over the part to be united, as shown in 
Fig. 17, and the long end &, used to bind 
around the rod, and finally passed 
through the loop a, as shown in Fig. 18, 
it is readily secuied by pulling d, when 
the loop is drawn in, and fastens the end 
of the cord. 

For fastening a cord to any cylindrical 
object, one of the most useful knots is 
the clove hitch, which, although exceed- 
ingly simple and most easily made, is one 
of the most puzzling knots to the unin- 
itiated. There are several modes of form- 
ing it, the most simple being perhaps as 
follows : — make two loops, precisely simi- 




Fig. 17. 



Fig. 18. 



Fig. 19. 

lar in every respect as a and J, Fig. 19, 
then bring b in front of a, so as to make 
both loops correspoad, and pass them 
over the object to be tied, tightening the 
ends ; if this is properly done, the knot 
wiU not slip, although surrounding a tol- 
erably smooth cylindrical object, as a pil- 
lar, pole, &c. This knot is emplo3'ed by 
surgeons in reducing dislocations of the 
last joint of the thumb, and by sailors in 
great part of the standing rigging. The 
loop which is formed when a cable is 
passed around a post or tree to secure a 
vessel near shore, is fastened by what 
sailors term two half hitches, which is 
simply a clove hitch made by the end of 
the rope which is passed around the post 
or tree, and then made to describe the 
clove hitch around that part of itself 
which is tightly strained. 

From the tying of knots we may pass 
on to the tying over of bottles, preserves, 
jars, &c. ; the object with which this 



DOMESTIC MANIPULATIOJS^. 



77 



operation is performed is either to pre- 
vent the excess of air or the escape or 
entrance of moisture ; the act itself is so 
very simple as to require no explanation ; 
but a few words may be said on the 
choice of material, which should be varied 
so as to suit the exigencies of each particu- 
lar case. When a vessel of spirit is to 
be tied over, leather is frequently select- 
ed — a very erroneous practice, as the va- 
por of spirit passes readily through that 
substance, but cannot penetrate bladder, 
which should be invariably used for the 
purpose. So effectually is spirit con- 
fined by bladder, that when weak spirits 
are put into bladders or into vessels tied 
over with bladder, and allowed to remain 
some time, they are strengthened, as the 
vapor of the water passes away, that of 
the spirit being retained. 

Bladder or other animal membranes of 
the same nature, in a moist and flaccid 
state, are usually selected for tying over 
preserves and jams, for which they are 
well adapted. Many persons place a thin 
piece of brandied paper in the jar resting 
on the jam, in addition to tying it down ; 
this assists in excluding air and prevent- 
ing mouldiness, but we have found a piece 
of very thin paper moistened with white 
of egg much more efficacious. The thin 
sheet-lead used for lining the interior of 
tea-chests, or stout tin-foil, is very advan- 
tageously used in tying down vessels con- 
taining specimens of natural history pre- 
served in spirits, as they effectually pre- 
vent the escape of the lattei' for a long 
series of years. The plan usually pursued 
is to tie the cork over first with a single 
bladder, then with the metal, and finally 
with a second piece of bladder, which is 
afterwards covered with a coat of black 
paint. 

The tying up of parcels in paper is an 
operation which is seldom neatly per- 
formed by persons whose occupations 
have not given them great facilities for 
constant practice. Whether the paper be 



wrapped round the objects, as is the case 
usually when it is much larger than suffi- 
cient to enclose them, or merely folded 
over itself, as is done by druggists, who 
cut the paper to the required size, it is im- 
portant that the breadth of the paper 
should be no longer than sufficient to 
enable it to be folded over the ends of 
the object enclosed, without passing over 
the opposite side ; it is impossible to 
make a neat or close parcel with paper 
which is too broad ; excess in length may 
be readily disposed of by wrapping it 
round ; but excess of breadth should be 
cut away. With regard to turning in the 
ends the mode adopted by grocers is the 
best. The most common cause of fiiilure 
in parcels is their being badly corded ; 
we will, therefore, (however unnecessary 
the description of so simple a perform- 
ance may appear to those already ac- 
quainted with it), describe the i^ost 
readily acquired mode of cording. 

Let a single knot be made in the end 
of the cord, which is then passed round 
the box or parcel. This knotted end is 
now tied by a single hitch round the mid- 
dle of the cord (Fig. 20), and the whole 
pulled tight. The cord itself is then car- 
ried at right angles round the end of the 
parcel, and where it crosses the transverse 
cord on the bottom of the box (Fig. 21), 
it should (if the parcel is heavy, and re- 
quires to be firmly secured) be passed 
ove7' the cross cord, then back underneath 
it, and pulled tightly, then over itself; 
lastly, under the cross cord, and on 
around the other end of the box. When 




Fiff. 20. 

it reaches the top it must be secured by 



78 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



passing it under at that part of the cord 
which runs lengthways («, Fig. 20), pull- 
ing it very tight, and fastening it by two 
half hitches round itself. The great cause 




Fig. 21. 
of parcels becoming loose is the fact of 
the cord being often fastened to one of 
the transverse parts (as &, Fig. 20), in- 
stead of the piece running lengthways, 
and in this case it invariably becomes 
loose. The description may perhaps be 
rendered clearer by the aid of the figures, 
which exhibit the top and bottom of a 
box corded as described. The cords, how- 
evA", are shown in a loose state to allow 
their arrangements to be perceived more 
easily. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

In spite of our receipts and our phi- 
losophy, the briskness of the fire, the 
skill of our cook, the excellence of the 
oven, the bright array of pots, kettles, 
pans, moulds, griddles and gridirons, and 
the presiding genius of even a half For- 
tunatus sort of a purse, or the most 
rigid scale and measure of economy, one 
grand puzzle besets alike all kitchens — 
the difBculty of really getting the ingredi- 
ents on which the mystery of food manu- 
facture is to be exercised. 

The very water we have to cook with, 
is crowded with millions of monsters — 
things with two heads and no heads, 
with countless legs and no legs, with 
jaws and pincers and claws, and moat 



wonderful springy tails ; in some water 
well nigh enough of them to make a sort 
of soup, to say nothing of the chalk, 
lime, iron, and a host of other impuri 
ties. 

The sugar, if it be brown, without tak- 
ing note of such items as a little lead, a 
good deal of sand, some clay and flour, 
is pretty nearly as thick as it can hold 
of chips of cane and swarms of mites. 

Our tea, if green, is painted and pol- 
ished with Prussian blue, turmeric pow- 
der, and China clay, and is a mixture of 
all the leaves that the wonderful industry 
and ingenuity of the Chinese, can accom- 
plish ; we have old tea-leaves dried and 
twisted up, and colored and glazed, and 
sold for black and green ; we have even 
gunpowder made up of dust and sand, 
and gum, faced as they call it with plum- 
bago. 

Coffee, fragrant, and refreshing, has 
almost become a myth ; we may have 
pneumatic coffee-pots that will not let 
the finest dust pass through their strain- 
ers, French coft'ee-pots, German coffee- 
pots, and all kinds of traditional direc- 
tions for the manufacture : but not one 
of them can help us to make coffee, un- 
less as good old Mrs. Glass would say, 
" we have first got our coffee ; " and what 
with foreign roguery and home roguery 
the chances are twenty to one against 
us, that the brown powder we are at so 
much pains with, once flourished at the 
end of a blue flower, on a long stalk 
under our own hedges, being known 
where it grew under the name of wild 
endive, christened in trade chicor}-, and 
being in reality a tall and aristocratic 
sort of dandelion, possessing too the me- 
dicinal properties of dandelion, and none 
whatever of the properties of coffee. 
But even if people be taken with a liking 
for this dandelion tea instead of coffee, 
they cannot have it pure. The chicory 
itself is far too costly to content the 
avaricious roguery of a number of deal- 



WHAT WE EAT. 



19 



ers, and so it is adulterated with roasted 
corn, parsnips, manglewurzel, beans, 
Egyptian lupin seed, tiscuit powder, 
burnt sugar, roasted carrots, oak bark, 
tan, acorns, mahogany sawdust, and no 
little sand, the result of the original dirt 
judiciously left as a make-weight upon 
the root of the chicory itself. 

IVIustard can scarcely be said to have 
even the color of mustai'd, for it is colored 
with turmeric, and what passes for mus- 
tard is in many a' case little more than 
mere husks and flour. 

Pepper is messed up with wheat flour, 
mustard-seed husks, sago-meal, pea -flour, 
and ware-house sweepiijgs ; nor docs it 
fare better with food for invalids, oat- 
meal being mingled with far less diges- 
tive barley-meal at half the price. Ar- 
row-root (which it should be understood 
is the produce of under-ground branches 
or bulbs of the maranta plant, growing 
in the "Nt^est and East Indies, having 
gained its name of arrow-root from the 
belief that it was a remedy against poi- 
soned arrows,) is to the utmost econo- 
mized ; and though its purity is often of 
great importance to the invalid, there is 
for the most part sold instead, sago-flour, 
tapioca-flour, and most commonly of all, 
potato-starch. 

Milk and bread are not so much adul- 
terated. But the milk, partly by the 
kind of keep of the cows, partly by a 
little careful skimming, and in a multi- 
tude of cases by the liberal aid of the 
pump, is duly thinned. Flour and bread, 
of old mixed with plaster of Paris, 
ground bones, and potato-starch — thanks 
to the cheapening of pure materials, has 
come to content itself with alum only. 
But this running account of roguery, 
except for its curiousness, would be of 
little use without a few hints, as to par- 
tial detection and prevention. 

As to tea, it is best to be content with 
black tea alone. 

Eor sugar, the best advice is — if you 



like to pay for dirt, and to mix it with 
your preserves, puddings, and pastry, and 
choose to believe that sugar which mois- 
tens even the thick paper they place it in, 
and which looks dark, smells strong, and 
sticks to your fingers, is richer in sweet- 
ening than clear sparkhng white sugar, 
out of which none of the sweetening but 
all of the dirt has been washed — then 
buy brown sugar. 

" Please tell the people over the way," 
said a gentleman, " that I would take it 
as a particular favor, if in future they 
will send me the cow's hairs on one 
plate, and the butter on another, and I 
can mix them myself as I want them." 
Such is our advice as to coffee. It seems 
beyond the reach of average human hon- 
esty to sell it pure. * The chicor^^ is so 
fragrant — so wholesome — such an im- 
provement on the flavor of the Arabian 
berry, and withal so much cheaper, that 
mixed it must . be. We say, therefore, 
Buy your coffee in the berry, raw ; your 
chances are at all events fifty to one bet- 
ter of having coffee only. Roast and 
grind it for yourselves, and, if you like 
chicory or dandelion, endive, or any other 
weed with it, why, buy the roots, scorch 
them and grate them, and, like the man 
with the hairs in his butter, mix them 
to your taste. But do not, unless you 
choose to cheat your stomachs, buy 
ground coffee. A mill will soon pay for 
itself; and at all events never purchase 
canistered or bottled coffee, for in ninety- 
nine cases out of a hundred an additional 
dose of dust is made to pay for the tin 
or glass.* 

* It may not be amiss to show how tea is made 
in China, and coffee amongst the Turlis. 

The art of making tea consists in pouring the 
water on and off immediaflely, so as to get the 
flavor. 

Coffee-making is a more intricate affair, and can- 
not be fully conveyed in a receipt. The coffee must, 
be slowly roasted, not burnt, and brought only to 
an amber brown ; it must be roasted day by day, and 
reduced by pounding to an impalpable powder. In 
making it, two opposite and apparently inconipati- 



80 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



As to water — every one knows that 
plumbers make the bottoms of the cis- 
terns thicker than the sides, because the 
water eats the lead away ; hard water 
does so more than soft, and water from 
the same source more at some times 
than others. Lead, as the phrase is, ac- 
cumulates in the system, so that ever so* 
little, taken day by day, at length sums 
up to a poisonous dose suflBcient to mar 
the health. The remedy for this mis- 
chief is simply to have the pipes made 
of gutta percha. Many spring waters, 
though of course free from the animal 
impurities, abound still more in the 
medicinal. To render such waters fit for 
healthful use, some process of purifica- 
tion is absolutely essential, and such 
purification very perceptively improves 
both their cooking and washing proper- 
ties. 

Ordinary filters certainly free water 
from a considerable quantity of dirt, but 
not from the medicinal ingredients, nor 
even from all the animalculae, some of 
which, though quite visible as monsters 
with a microscope, nevertheless find 
their way through the filter. One of the 
simplest processes of purification, if peo- 
ple will only take the trouble to perform 
it — and it is surely worth it for the in- 
crease of comfort and the advantage to 
health — is — for every forty gallons that 
the cistern holds to pour in one gallon of 
lime-water ; this has the effect of throw- 

l)le ends are to be secured — strength and flavor. To 
obtain the first, it must be boiled ; by boiling, the 
second is lost. ' The difficulty is surmounted by a 
double process, — one thorough cooking, one slight 
one ; by the first a strong infusion is obtained, by 
the second that infusion is flavored. Thus a large 
pot with coffee-lees stands simmering by the fire; 
this is the sherbet. When a cup is wanted, the 
pounded cofice is put in the little tin or copper pan, 
and placed on the embers ; it fumes for a moment, 
then the sherbet is poured on ; in a few seconds the 
Troth (caimah) rises ; presently an indication that 
it is about to boil is made manifest, when the cofi'ee 
is instantly taken from the fire, carried into the 
apartment, turned into the cup, and drunk.'' — Ur- 
quhurVa J'iUara of Hercules, 



ing down from the water a large propor- 
tion of the chemical ingredients, and no 
small multitude of the animalculae. 
Another method of purification is by 
long slow boiling, then allowing the 
water to cool, and filtering it. Some 
trouble no doubt there is in any such 
course ; but pure water, like pure air, is 
essential to a life of health, and those 
who will not be at the trouble, must 
make up their minds to some degree of 
infirmity and unhappiness. 

The subject of the Water-supply to 
large towns is one of the highest impor- 
tance to the well-being of the commu- 
nity. * 

The quality of water for domestic pur- 
poses depends mainly upon its degree of 
hardness or softness ; and this in its turn 
depends almost entirely upon the quan- 
tity of lime dissolved in some form or 
other in the water. It is found, upon 
experiment, that one gallon (weighing 
70,000 grains) of pure water will not 
dissolve more than two grains of chalk, 
and so acquire two degrees of hardness ; 
and that whenever more is contained in 
water, the excess is always owing to the 
presence of carbonic acid gas, which ena- 
bles it to dissolve a much larger quantity. 
The practical part of our subject depends 
on this fact ; for if by any means we can 
get rid of the carbonic acid, the dissolved 
chalk is necessarily precipitated, and the 
hard water, unfit for culinar}^ and domes- 
tic purpose-s, becomes soft, and well 
adapted to both these uses. Carbonic 
acid is in part expelled from water by 
heating it to the boiling point: a still 
larger quantity is got rid of after boiling 
for some few minutes, and nearly every 
trace disappears at the end of half an 
hour ; and just in proportion as the car- 
bonic acid gas is expelled, so does the 
chalk fall, rendering the water in the first 
instance turbid, and becoming deposit- 
ed on the interior surface of kettles, 



PURITY OF WATEK. 



81 



where it forms the well-known rock of 
fur. 

It has been found that water of 14 de- 
grees of hardness lost two degrees when 
merely made to boil ; boiling for five 
minutes reduced the hardness to 6 de- 
grees ; and for a quarter of an hour, to 
little more than 4 degrees. The practi- 
cal application of this knowledge needs 
scarcely to be pointed out. Whenever a 
soft water is required, boil for several 
minutes before using. In making tea, for 
instance, the economy and general supe- 
riority of a soft water is well known. 
How many a young gentleman, with a 
smattering of science just enough to in- 
form him that water gets no hotter how- 
ever long or violently it is boiled, has 
laughed at his grandmother's antiquated 
notions, because she requested that the 
water might be made to boil thoroughly 
before the tea was made : the old lady 
could give no very satisfactory explana- 
tion of her pi-ejudice. yet it was not the 
less a correct one. 

Before going further in this matter, it 
may be stated that there are some waters 
in which the lime is dissolved in the form 
of gypsum (sulphate of lime) : in these, 
the hardness is of a permanent character, 
and cannot be lessened by boiling. Tea 
made under such circumstances may be 
improved, either by the addition of a 
very small quantity of carbonate of soda, 
or the tea should be kept soaking for half 
an hour, under such circumstances as 
will retain the heat. 

In washing, the use of hard water is, 
as is well known, extremely prejudicial. 
The explanation is exceedingly simple : 
every degree of hardness in a gallon of 
water destroys 10 grains of soap. 

There is one practical matter of great 
importance, to which we wish to draw 
the attention of all concerned : it is the 
effect of boiling hnen in hard water. If 
clothes are put into cold water, and then 
boiled the precipitation of chalk takes 



place on the clothes, and whatever color- 
ing matter exists in the water goes down 
with the chalk, and also becomes attached 
to the linen, rendering it of that disa- 
greeable and unremovable dirty hue 
which is so characteristic of certain laun- 
dries. If boiling is absolutely requisite 
for white fabrics, it should be done in 
water which has been boiled half an hour, 
allowed to stand, and then poured off 
from the sediment ; otherwise, from tho 
immediate precipitation of the chalk, the 
dirt is boiled in and thoroughly fixed to 
the fabric. A moment's consideration 
will convince any one, that a deposit 
similar to the fur in a tea-kettle cannot 
be expected to improve the appearance 
of white linen. Where clean rain water 
can be obtained, there is no objection to 
the boiling of clothes in it ; as, being ab- 
solutely free from lime, no precipitation 
can take place. The use of soda in soft- 
ening water employed in washing, is well 
known ; but the remedy is not without 
its own evil : it weakens the fibre of the 
cloth, and unless it is much more thor- 
oughly removed by rinsing than is 
usually the case, it occasions a very per- 
manent yellow tinge when the cloth is 
heated. 



CHAPTER XVn. 

BOILING, STEWING, KTC. 

From considering the properties of 
hard and soft water, we pass by a natural 
transition to the employment of that 
liquid in culinary operations. In prac- 
tice, nothing can at first sight appear 
more simple than the operation of boil- 
ing, whether it be confined to the mere 
heating of a liquid, or extended to the 
preparation of an article of food ; yet it 
is one which involves chemical principles 
of a very high order, and which is by no 



82 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



means so simple a matter as it may be 
regarded at a cursory glance. 

To trace the steps of the process from 
its commencement, let us imagine a ves- 
sel of water placed over the fire, and re- 
ceiving constantly a supply of heat from 
that source ; the effect is, that its tem- 
perature gradually rises from about 50° 
or 60°, the usual warmth of ordinary 
water, to 212°, the point at which boiling 
takes place; but before it reaches that 
height, a number of bubbles may be ob- 
served foaming on the sides of the ves- 
sel ; these gradually increase in size, and 
when they become sufficiently buoyant, 
quit their position, rise to the surface, 
and escape; they consist of air previ- 
ously dissolved in the water, and which 
is expelled by the increased heat. Water 
which has been boiled and allowed to 
become cold, without much exposure to 
the air, fails to reabsorb the quantity it 
previously contained, and consequently 
has its character somewhat altered. 
Thus, it freezes more readily than water 
which has not been boiled, in consequence 
of the air not having to be expelled in 
the act of solidifying, as is usually the 
case : hence, the ice from boiled water is 
free from those numerous air bubbles 
which are always to be observed in com- 
mon ice. It possesses also a mawkish, 
unpleasant taste, and is totally unable to 
preserve the life of any aquatic animal. 
The presence of this minute quantity of 
air in ordinary water, is very essential to 
its utility. Faraday found that water, 
totally destitute of air, does not boil in 
the usual mode, but when heated to the 
boihng point, it at once, with an instan- 
taneous and violent explosion, passes into 
the form of steam. This strange fact, 
which shows upon what small, and, ap- 
parently, trivial circnmstances, the com- 
fort — nay, we may truly say — the exist- 
ence of man depends, is strikingly shown 
by a very ingenious experiment, devised 
by that celebrated chemist. He took a 



piece of Wenham Lake ice, (which, from 
peculiar local causes, such as being formed 
from spring water, is totally destitute of 
air,) and melted it under a covering of 
sweet oil ; this prevented the ab.'orpti.on 
of any air during the liquefaction ; on 
continuing the heat, the water rose in 
temperature, and on reaching the boiling 
point, suddenly burst into steam, with 
an explosive power sufficiently great to 
scatter the glass vessel in which the ex- 
periment was made into fragments ; and 
had it not been for a protecting covering 
of wire gauze, very serious effects might 
havie ensued. 

From the precipitation of the dissolved 
chalk present in most kinds of water, a 
cloudiness or slight turbidity is always 
to be observed in boiled water. 

After the escape of the air, bubbles of 
steam, at first very small in size, are 
formed at the bottom of the vessel, those 
formed at first are at once cooled from 
the whole water not being of an equal 
temperature, and are condensed before 
they reach the surface : this very rapid 
and successive condensation of numerous 
small bubbles gives rise to that peculiar 
vibration which occasions what is termed 
the singing of the teakettle, and which, as 
is well known, is indicative of its approach 
to the boiling point ; when the whole 
water is uniformly heated, this effect no 
longer occurs, but the bubbles of steam 
rise to the surfiice and escape. After hav- 
ing been heated to 212°, the temperature 
of waf^r no longer rises ; it is not possible, 
under ordinary circumstances, to increase 
the temperature in the slightest degree ; 
for all the extra heat that is given to 
boiling water merely produces increased 
quantity of steam, by whicli it is carried 
off, without affecting the heat of the re- 
maining water. This is a matter of con- 
siderable practical importance in cookery; 
and it should be always borne in mind, 
that the most gentle simmer is as effica- 
cious in cooking as the most violent boil- 



BOILING. THE BAIN MARIE. 



83 



ing ; for the degree of heat in both cases 
is precisely the same, so that after hav- 
ing once raised the water to the boilhig 
point, the most moderate fire is sufficient 
in ordinary cases to keep it there; by 
attention to this point, a most enormous 
saving may often be effected in the con- 
sumption of fuel, although this is a con- 
sideration that will be more fully entered 
into in a subsequent chapter. 

Thick liquids, which do not readily 
permit the escape of steam or the rapid 
motion between the particles of fluid, 
may, however, be readily heated at the 
part exposed to the fire to a much higher 
degree, while those portions not imme- 
diately in contact with the heat are much 
colder ; from this cause they are very apt 
to be charred, and if articles of food, 
they are totally spoiled. To avoid this 
effect, recotirse may be had to the hain 
marie^ which is simply the same contri- 
vance that may be observed in a carpen- 
ter's glue-pot, applied to the preparation 
of articles of food, — being merely an inner 
vessel to contain the substance to be 
heated; this is placed in an outer one, 
the space between the two containing 
water. On placing this contrivance on 
the fire, it is obvious that the substance 
in the inner vessel being heated t-olely 
by the boiling water, cannot possibly be- 
come burnt. This most useful contrivance 
is adopted in all fii-st-class kitchens, and 
is equally indispensable in the chemist's 
laboratory ; by its aid, soups, gravies, &c., 
can be kept hot any length of time with- 
out risk, preserves made without burning, 
&c. The chief precautions required in its 
use are, that the inner vessel sliould be 
thin and formed of metal, so as to allow 
the rapid transmission of heat fiom boil- 
ing water, and care should be taken that 
the outer vessel does not boil <\vj. One 
serious disadvantage attends its use as or- 
dinarily employed : it is, that it is impos- 
sible to heat substances in it to the boil- 
ing point, for the water itself is only at 



that temperature and the substance in 
the inner vessel is always a few degrees 
below. This evil, however, may be en- 
tirely obviated, by using a solution in the 
outer vessel, which boils at a higher tem- 
perature than 212°, and which will there- 
fore raise the inner vessel and its con- 
tents to that point ; thus, if the water be 
made to dissolve as much common salt 
as it is capable of doing, it will not boil 
until it is heated to 224''' ; or if it is satu- 
rated with sal-ammoniac or nitre, the 
heat will rise 12° or 14° higher. We 
need scarcely say that the fiist of these 
substances will be found a very useful 
and economical addition to the iain 
mane. When chemists require a still 
higher temperature, they have recourse 
to a bath of olive oil, which is capable of 
bearing a degree of heat as high as 500° ; 
but its extreme danger over an open fire 
entirely precludes its use in any culinary 
operation. 

The mode of conducting the operation 
of boiling should not be uniform, but 
vary with the different purposes required. 
Thus, in the case of meat, a temperature 
of 212° hardens, instead of softening, 
two of the substances which it contains ; 
namelj^, the fibrine, or material forming 
the chief part of the muscular fibre, and 
the albumen, or portion which is analo- 
gous to white of egg ; if, on the contrary, 
meat is cooked by means of water at a 
lower temperature, the most nutritious 
parts are dissolved out, and the solid 
food left comparatively innutritions. The 
celebrated German chemist, Liebig, pro- 
poses the following plan : — he recom- 
mends that a piece of meat of considera- 
ble size should be taken and plunged into 
perfectly boiling water, over a good fire ; 
that the water should be kept boiling for 
a few minutes, and then a portion of cold 
water, eq^ial in quantity to about one-half 
of the boiling water, should be thrown 
in : this will reduce the temperature to 
about 1C0°, at which point the meat 



84 



THE PKACTICAL HOTJSEKEEPEK. 



should be kept until thoroughly done ; 
which, however, takes a much longer 
time tlian the ordinary mode. 

The object of this mode of proceeding 
is, in the first instance, to harden the ex- 
terior of the meat, converting it into a 
sort of crust, which prevents the escape 
of the nutritious juices into the water, 
while the long continuance of the gentle 
heat afterwards cooks the interior with- 
out hardening either the albumen or the 
fibrine. Of course, where the object of 
boiling is to make soup, the opposite plan 
must be had recourse to ; the meat 
should be in small instead of large pieces, 
put on in cold water and very slowly 
heated, so that all the soluble parts may 
be dissolved before the fibre is hardened 
by the action of boiling water. 

In boiling eggs, the effect of heat in 
hardening the albumen is well known ; 
by being suddenly plunged into boiling 
water, the outside is hardened to the 
greatest degree of which it is capable, 
and is thereby rendered exceedingly dif- 
ficult of digestion, while the inside is 
barely warmed ; if, on the contrary, they 
are placed in cold water, which is then 
raised to the boiling point, removed from 
the fire, and allowed to stand about a 
minute (or two, if required to be well 
done,) it will be found that, instead of 
having an almost leathery consistence, 
the white will be uniformly partially 
hardened, and will furnish a much more 
pleasant and digestible article of diet; 
the improvement, in fact, is so great, that 
common eggs cooked in this manner very 
nearly approach new laid ones in quality. 

If the operation of boiling has to be 
performed on any substance containing 
starchy matters — as potatoes, rice, flour, 
&c., then the heat must, on the contrary, 
be raised to a sufficient degree to burst 
the little grains of which the starch con- 
sists, and liberate the interior nutritious 
portions, before it can become fit food 



for man; uncooked starch not being 
readily or easily digested. And even in 
the case of those vegetable-feeding ani- 
mals whose power of digesting such sub- 
stances surpasses that of man, there is 
the greatest advantage to be derived from 
the use of cooked food, as the most intelli- 
gent and scientific farmers at the present 
day well know ; and we would strongly 
urge on those of our readers who keep 
pigs to try the experiment of baking the 
potatoes they give them ; for this process, 
like boiling, has the effect of bursting the 
starch grains ; they will find the effect 
to be, that the food will go much further, 
all of it being digested, and that the 
quality of the flesh wdl be very materi- 
ally improved. 



CHAPTER XYIII. 



ECONOMY OF HEAT. 



Perhaps few of our readers are aware 
of the extraordinary wastefulness of our 
usual processes for obtaining artificial 
heat ; at the most moderate computation, 
seven-eighths of the warmth produced 
by an open fire, pass up the chimney, 
and are entirely useless ; and according 
to other estimates, which we regard as 
being nearer the truth, fourteen parts out 
of every fifteen are uselessly wasted. 
It may be asked what are the defects of 
a common fireplace that render it so 
wasteful, and in what way is the heat 
carried off? In reply it may be stated, 
that one half the heat produced passes 
away with the smoke and heated air 
arising from the fire, a quarter is carried 
up by the draught of cold air from the 
room, which, flowing around the fire and 
between it and the mantel-piece, rises 
with the smoke. Again, the soot which 
passes away is unburned fuel, and is 
therefore useless ; and a large portion of 



ECONOMY OF HEAT. 



85 



heat is thrown downwards upon the ash- 
es and is wasted; while the iron of 
which the ranges are generally made, 
conveys away a considerable quantity. 
On the continent of Europe the produc- 
tion of heat is more economically man- 
aged — stoves of very admirable construc- 
tion being constantly had recourse to, 
both for the purpose of producing warmth 
and for cookery. It is to the latter ap- 
plication of heat that we must mainly 
confine ourselves, having been at some 
considerable pains in examining the 
various stoves and ranges now to be ob- 
tained. 

The cooking-stove common in Europe, 
consists of an enclosed fire-pan, with a 
grating below and a lid at the top for the 
supply of fuel ; this is enclosed in an 
oven, supported on the floor of the room 
by feet, and which is heated by the 
warmth thrown out by the sides of the 
fire-pan. and also by a flue spreading over 
the top, which is thus heated ; while the 
upper surface of the flue forms a hot 
plate, on which many saucepans, &c., can 
be kept boiling, and any vessel can also 
be placed over the fire by the removal of 
the lid. As the draught is under perfect 
control, the fuel is slowly consumed, and 
the stove affords means of baking, boiling, 
frying, and stewing, at a very small ex- 
pense. 

Those of our readers who visited Prince 
Albert's Model Cottages opposite the Ex- 
hibition in London, may have noticed a 
stove looking very much like a long ob- 
long box, standing on four legs, having 
two doors in the front, one opening into 
a large sized oven, the other disclosing 
the fire-grate, which was fed by the re- 
moval of a lid at the top ; — the draught 
from the fire passed over the oven, heat- 
ing it, and the hot plate above. This 
stove combines all the advantages of the 
continental cooking-stove, with the cheer- 
ful appearance of an open fire; at the 
same time, by closing up the fire-place 
6 



door, it is converted into a close stovei 
with an excessively small consumption 
of fuel. It bakes admirably, either large 
joints, or bread, at the same time it boils 
a saucepan and steamer over the fire-hole, 
and also four large, or six smaller sauce- 
pans on the top of the hot plate. It fries 
well, and broils before the fire, and this 
with less than one half the fuel that was 
employed to do a portion of the work in 
the range. The Bain Marie., which is so 
excellent a means of keeping soups, gravies, 
sauces, &c., hot without burning or dry- 
ing them up, is readily used with it ; and 
the smite pan. or deep frying-pan, which 
is employed as a preliminary operation in 
most French made dishes, is conveniently 
used ; this contrivance derives its name 
from the verb santer^ to jump — the meat 
being rapidly turned over and browned 
previous to stewing. The only disadvan- 
tage attending the use of this stove is, 
that it is not calculated for roasting, but 
every other operation in cooking it per- 
forms infinitely better than a common 
fire. This stove, which is termed the 
Cottager's Stove, is made by Messrs. 
Benham, Wigmore Street, London. 




Cottaser's Stove. 



Those who object to a stove, preferring 
a range, even at a greater sacrifice of 
economy, should still be somewhat guided 
by correct principles in their selection ; 



a range surrounded by iron is an absurdi- 
ty, as the metal conducts away the heat 
rapidly ; it should be backed and lined 
with fire-brick, or Welsh lumps, which 
throw out the heat with great power. 
In an open fire-place, the active combus- 
tion is wanted in front for roasting, and 
there only should air enter the fire ; in 
most ranges the air enters below, causing 
the greatest heat to be thrown upon the 
ashes. It may be thought that closing 
up the bottom would produce the same 
eilect as allowing it to be choked up with 
ashes in a common grate, deadening the 
fire ; this is not the case with a properly 
constructed range. Backed with a slant- 
ing back of fire clay, the ashes can be read- 
ily removed at the bottom, and all the 
draught being in front, there is a bright 
fire at the place where it is required. 

In situations where gas is to be ob- 
tained, it forms a ready, and for some 
purposes, very economical means of ob- 
taining heat ; its economy does not arise 
from its cheapness com- 
pared Avith other means, 
but from the fact that it 
need not be hghted till 
the instant it is required, 
and can be as quickly ex- 
tinguished when it has 
done its required duty ; 
Fig. 2. for heating any vessels 

containing liquids, especially if the heat 
is required to be only of short continu- 
ance, gas will be found extremely advan- 
tageous. A ring burner, constructed as 
shown in Fig. 2, less than three inches 
in diameter, will quickly boil a gallon of 
water in a metallic vessel ; burners of 
this description are usually used in the 
laboratory, surrounded by a case made 
of sheet iron or tinned plate, as in Fig. 3 ; 
this serves to support the vessel to be 
heated, to steady the jets of flame, and to 
conduct every portion of hot air against 
the bottom ; the door also gives a ready 
access to the burner for the purposes of 
lighting the gas. 




For the domestic use of gas in heating 
we believe there is no contrivance so use- 
ful as the following: — A circular hole, 
from two to four or more inches in diame- 
ter, is cut in the dresser, through which 
is passed a sheet-iron tube, supported by 
three little elbows ; this tube projects a 
few inches above the table, and about a 
foot and a half below ; its lower end is 
open, and into it projects a gas-pipe, fur- 
nished with a stop -cock ; the upper ex- 
tremity is covered with a sheet of wire 
gauze, similar to that used for blinds, on 
which, as shown in Fig. 4, may be placed 
some pieces of pumice-stone, surrounded 




Fig. 8. 

and kept together by a broad ring ; — nei- 
ther the pumice-stone nor the ring, how- 
ever, are essential parts of the contriv- 
ance. The action of this arrangement is 
as follows : — When the gas is turned on 




Fig.*. 
it escapes from the pipe, rising through 
the tube, and mixing with the air contain- 
ed within it ; this mixture then escapes 
through the wire gauze, and may be 
lighted on its upper side, without pass- 



ECONOIkO" OF HEAT. 



87 



ing through it to the gas below;, the 
flame should be perfectly free from 
smoke, which indicates too much gas — 
should be pale, colorless, and not soil any- 
bright metal placed in it ; if the flame is 
in the slightest degree yellow it will do 
this, and then the gas should be partly 
turned ofi" — on the contrary, if there is 
not enough gas, the flame will be extin- 
guished. When lighted, the pumice be- 
comes red-hot. and throws out a great 
heat ; when used in boiling, the vessel 
should be supported a short distance 
over the flame by a trivet ; if it is made 
to rest on the top of the ring, and is suf- 
ficiently large to close it entirely, the 
current is stopped and the flame extin- 
guished, whilst the unburned gas still 
escapes below. This contrivance is most 
useful ; it is lighted in an instant, is per- 
fectly free from smoke, no unburned gas 
escapes, it throws out great heat, and 
may be employed to heat bright tools 
with much more convenience than a char- 
coal fire. The objections to its use are, 
that in burning it produces, as all gas 
does, a quantity of carbonic acid gas, de- 
teriorating the air, and that the flame can- 
not be very much enlarged or diminished, 
so that if fires of dificrent power are re- 
quired, two or more of the contrivances 
must be put in order. Otherwise, the 
instantaneous action, small cost, great 
heating power, and cleanliness of the 
plan, strongly recommend it. In sum- 
mer weather, in many small families, it 
can be made to dispense altogether with 
the use of a fire. By a little variation, 
the whole contrivance may be made to 
stand on the table, like Fig. 2 ; in this 
and other cases, vulcanized India-rubber 
will be found to form by far the best 
kind of flexible tube, being quite imper- 
vious, very durable, and excessively pli- 
ant. Those who wish to try the experi- 
ment of heating on this plan, may readily 
do so by covering the top of the glass 



chimney of any common burner with a 
piece of wire gauze, folding it over the 
sides; the gas may then be turned on, 
and lighted above the gauze, after it has 
mingled with the air in the chimney : a 
small burner, however, does not afford 
sufficient gas for the purpose, and there 
is consequently too much air, and the 
flame is weak and liable to go out. 

We cannot conclude this chapter with- 
out entering our most earnest protest 
against all those injurious contrivances 
for burning charcoal without a flue. The 
use of charcoal-braziers in a large kitchen 
is not to be recommended, but a char- 
coal stove in a dwelling-room is most ob- 
jectionable. Charcoal, in burning, pro- 
duces carbonic acid gas, an invisible and 
therefore insidious poison, which is so 
deadly in its effects, that if the air of a 
room contains but one-tenth of its bulk, 
the breathing of it for any time is fatal. 
Every pound of charcoal, in burning, pro- 
duces more than three pounds and a half 
of this deadly gas. 

In Paris, in the years 1834 and 1835, 
there were 360 cases resulting from the 
fumes of charcoal, of which more than 
260 were fatal. In order to test the 
effects of these stoves, Mr. Coathupe, of 
Wraxall, shut himself up in a close room 
containing eighty cubic yards of air, with 
one of them in action. In four hours he 
was seized with giddiness, which, in an 
hour's time, became most intense ; he 
then had the desire to vomit, but not the 
power; this was followed by an utter 
loss of strength, throbbing at the tem- 
ples, and agonizing headache, but no 
sense of suffocation ; finding that the ex- 
periment was becoming dangerous, he 
es.sayed to open the window, but had the 
greatest difficulty in so doing ; and when 
his wife came into the room, he was found 
in a speechless state, in which he re- 
mained for some time. 

In a fatal case, which happened in St. 



John's Wood, where two girls were 
killed by the use of these stoves, it was 
found, that the quantity of carbonic acid 
produced was capable of rendering poi- 
sonous the air of a room ten times the 
size of the one in which it was used. 
Men who, knowing the poisonous effects 
of these stoves, still sell them, recom- 
mending them as wholesome, with the 
deliberate assertion that their pi-epared 
fuel, which is merely charcoal disguised, 
is not deleterious, evince a much more 
lively interest in the state of their own 
pockets, than in the lives of their cus- 
tomers. 

Let it not be imagined that the case of 
Mr. Coathupe is but a solitary one ; the 
action of burning charcoal is of the same 
deleterious nature on all persons. In 
January 1836. seventy people suffered 
the same symptoms, though in a milder' 
degree, in the church at Downham, in 
Norfolk, England, where two of these 
dangerous contrivances had been intro- 
duced : and in the Annales (VHygelne^ 
tom. xi., will be found an account of the 
suicides in the department of the Seine 
in ten years ; these were 4595 in num- 
ber, of which 1426 deaths were produced 
by burning charcoal. We would again 
recommend our readers under no circum- 
stances, however much they may be re- 
commended by false assertions, to admit 
stoves without flues into their houses. 



CHAPTER XIX. 

CLEANING AND DISINFECTING. 

We have elsewhere given directions as 
to the best mode of cleaning various arti- 
cles, such as bottles, glass, &c. What 
remains, therefore, under this head, is to 
furnish hints for cleaning miscellaneous 
articles, which have not been included 



under previous accounts ; and the very 
important process of disinfecting, which 
may be regarded as a medical cleaning, 
falls, naturally, into the same chapter. 
As the substances to be submitted to the 
process of cleaning vary greatly from one 
another, we shall find it more convenient 
to throw our remarks into the form of 
miscellaneous hints, than to arrange them 
in a chapter for consecutive reading. 

Iron-work which is exposed to wet, 
rusts rapidly ; it is usually preserved 
from the action of moisture either by 
covering it with two or three coatings of 
paint, as is customary in large out-door 
works, or by brushing it over with a 
varnish termed Brunswick black ; this 
plan is usually followed in the case of 
smaller substances used in-doors. A 
very superior plan for protecting small 
iron goods from the injurious action of 
wet, is to heat them a little below red- 
ness, and whilst hot to brush them over 
with common linseed oil, which is de- 
composed by the heat, and forms a thin, 
very firm coating of varnish, which is 
quite impervious to water, and unlike 
paint or Japan-black, does not chip off. 
It is evident that this plan can only be 
adopted in few cases, but where it is 
available we very strongly recommend it. 

Floor Boarding and other wood work 
is exceedingly apt to be stained by vari- 
ous substances spilt upon it. Ink stains, 
for instance, are extremely obstinate ; 
they withstand washing many times, and 
at last turn to a rusty iron color, from 
the application of the alkali of the soap. 
But the black stain of recent ink and the 
rusty iron-mould may be removed by the 
action of oxalic or muriatic acid. As 
wood is not likely to be injured like cloth 
or linen, tlie latter may be used, being 
the cheaper, and it should be diluted 
with two or three times its bulk of 
water, and applied until the stain is re- 
moved. Grease which has been trodden 



in, or has remained a long time, should 
be first softened by the application of a 
little turpentine, and then it will be 
found to yield much more readily than it 
otherwise would to the action of fuller's 
earth and pearlash or soda. Fruit stains 
are quickly removed by the action of a 
little chloride of lime, mixed with water, 
and applied until the desired efiect is 
produced. It should be borne in mind 
that all vegetable colors are utterly de- 
stroyed beyond any restoration, by the 
energetic action of this agent. 

Painty when soiled, is readily cleaned 
by soap and water ; soda and pearlash 
are frequently employed, but they act by 
removing a portion of the paint, and if 
not thoroughly washed off with clean 
water afterwards, they will be found to 
soften the whole. Caustic alkalies, such 
as the solution for washing on the new 
plan, will rapidly dissolve paint, and are 
therefore inapplicable for cleaning ; they 
may, however, bfe usefully employed in 
removing paint from wood, where such 
an operation is requisite. 

1 late may be cleaned by rouge, or if 
this is not readily obtained, by washed 
whiting ; this is readily made by stirring 
some whiting up with water, then allow- 
ing the larger particles and the grit to 
subside, and pouring off the water charged 
with the finer powder, which is allowed 
to settle, and dried for use. When plate 
is very much stained, it may be cleaned 
with putty powder, but this preparation 
would soon wear away the silver if used 
frequently or unnecessarily. It may be 
mentioned, that this substance is not 
made from putty, as its name might seem 
to imply, but is a rust or oxide of tin, 
obtained by heating the metal. 

Japanned Goods, such as tea-boards, 
should not have boiling water poured 
upon them, but should be washed with 
warm water, and polished with a piece 
of wash-leather and fine flour. 

Knives- — The common wooden knife- 



board wears out the knives very rapidly, 
it is therefore much better to employ a 
piece of buff-leather to cover the board ; 
for very superior cutlery emery powder 
should be used instead of Bath-brick.. 
Whatever the material of the board, it 
will be rapidly spoiled by cleaning the 
backs of knives upon the edge of the 
board ; to prevent this evil, a small pece 
of leather should be fixed on one end to 
clean the backs upon. 

Steel Forl-s are readily cleaned by 
having a pot of damp moss or hay, with 
some sand intermixed, into which they 
may be repeatedly thrust. If knives or 
forks get an unpleasant taint which can- 
not be removed readily, they may be 
plunged into the mould of the garden, 
which has much absorptive power, and 
rapidly removes such odors. 

Bedsteads may be freed from vermin 
by brushing them over in the cracks with 
a mixture formed of one ounce of corro 
sive sublimate, dissolved in half a pint of 
oil of turpentine, and the same quantity 
of any spirit, such as strong gin or 
whiskey ; this effectually prevents their 
harboring. But when first applied, it 
has a disagreeable odor from the tur- 
pentine, and great care must be taken 
with it, as it is excessively poisonous. It 
has been found that the presence of the 
odor of creosote has effectually di'iven 
away these enemies • to our nocturnal 
peace. On the whole, constant and un- 
remitting cleanliness, and the employ- 
ment of iron bedsteads, which are now 
manufactured of the most elegant forms, 
are the best means of getting rid of these 
pests. 

We pass on to the important opera- 
tions of disinfecting. Various means 
have been proposed of lessening or utter- 
ly destroying the infectious emanations 
that proceed from persons in certain 
diseases, and which frequently have the 
power of attaching themselves with great- 
er or less tenacit;, to articles of wearing 



90 



THE PRACTICAL HOTJSEKEEPEK. 



apparel, furniture, &c. Generally speak- 
ing, a good system of ventilation is suffi- 
cient to prevent infection. When rooms 
are piopeily aiied, a disease can seldom 
be caught iiioie than a few feet from the 
patient ; or even in the case of those 
most infectious disorders, scailet-fever, 
and siual!-pox, it seldom spreads more 
than a i'ew yaids ; but if the air of a 
room is confined, the infection is concen- 
trated, and becomes much more certain in 
its action. 

Downy and fibrous materials readily 
receive infection ; it may, in fact, in many 
instances, be folded up in them, and so 
retained almost any length of time ; but if 
they are thoroughly exposed to a free cur- 
rent of air, it is dissipated in a short time. 
It should he mentioned, that infectious dis- 
eases are more I'eadily I'eceived in certain 
states of the body ; thus, fear, timidity, 
mental anxiety, and such states of mind, 
by lowering the general tone of the sj'S- 
tem, render it much more liable to con- 
tract infectious or contagious diseases; 
a state of exhaustion from bodily fatigue, 
or from hunger, has the same tendency. 
Infection is also moi'e readily received 
through the lungs than thi'ough the skin ; 
therefore, it is important never to re- 
ceive the breath of a patient, and, a;s a 
sailor would say, always to keep to the 
windward side of him. Amongst the do- 
mestic disinfectants, vinegar has a great 
reputation, but undeservedly so ; its only 
action is to overpower, by its odor, the 
smell of a sick room — as a destroyer of 
the peculiar influences that engender dis- 
ease, it has no power. Burning substances 
act in the same manner. Burnt brown 
paper, fumigating pastiles, tobacco, only 
act by substituting one smell for another. 
The ridiculous practice of carrying about 
a piece of camphor is very common, and 
is perfectly inefficacious. If it has any 
action at all, it must be an-injurious one ; 
for camphor is a stimulant, and its con- 
stant inhalation must tend to lower the 



system, and so produce the very evil it is 
supposed to remedy. 

The best means of preventing infection, 
are ventilation and cleanliness in every 
particular. The best means of destroy- 
ing it are those powerful chemical agents 
which have the power of uniting with 
the hydrogen which is supposed to form 
part of the infectious substances. 

The most powerful, easily controlled, 
and in every sense the best disinfectant, 
is chlorine gas. This agent at once des- 
troys every trace of infection in all sub- 
stances submitted to its action. Its for- 
mation is perfectly under control, and 
goes on in a gentle manner for days to- 
gether, without requiring care or attend- 
ance. We consider that the slow libera- 
tion of chlorine is far superior to the 
employment of chloride of lime, which 
gives forth the gas in a modified form. 

In one case of a school where scarlet- 
fever had returned after several attempts 
at purification, chlorine effected the com- 
plete removal of every trace of the dis- 
ease. Various modes of liberating chlo- 
rine are known to chemists ; but, for such 
purposes as the present, where a slow, 
uniform, and constant action is required, 
there are none equal to the following 
plan : — One pound of common table-salt 
is to be intimately mixed by stirring 
with an equal weight of a substance call- 
ed manganese, which maj'' be readily ob- 
tained from any good chemist. Small 
portions of this mixture should be placed 
in shallow pans (the saucers of common 
flower-pots answer the purpose) ; and 
upon them should be poured a mixture 
of oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) and wa- 
ter, the quantity required for the above 
weights, viz., for one pound of each in- 
gredient, being two pounds of oil of vitriol 
and one of water, both bj^ weight. These 
should have been previously mixed in a 
wooden vessel, being stirred by a wooden 
lath, and allowed to become cool before 
being poured on the salt and manganese. 



as the mixing of the acid and water gen- 
erates great heat. Too much care can- 
not be taken with the acid, as it is ex- 
cessively corrosive in its nature, and 
destroys most substances with which it 
comes in contact. When these materials 
are all mixed, chlorine is slowly evolved 
for a period of three or four days, and in 
so gentle a manner, that not the shghtest 
irritating or unpleasant effect is produced. 
If it is wished to cause the more rapid 
production of gas, the saucer may be 
placed over a basin of boiling water, or 
upon a hot brick ; but the slow genera- 
tion for a considerable length of time is 
what should be more especially aimed at. 
It is needless to say, that all substances 
supposed to have been contaminated, 
should be spread out so as to receive the 
influence of the gas ; the bed-linen, and 
all woollen garments, being exposed by 
being spread out on chairs, lines, &c. ; 
the drawers and cupboards opened ; and 
while the disinfecting is in actual opera- 
tion, the windows and doors should be 
kept shut, to prevent the dissipation of 
the chlorine. It is found that two ounces 
of manganese, with a. proportionate quan- 
tity of the other materials, is suflBcient for 
a room twenty feet wide, forty feet long, 
and twelve feet high, which contains 20 
X40xl2=9600 cubic feet. 

It may be mentioned, that breathing 
chlorine in this highly diluted state, is 
not injurious to the general health ; al- 
though, in a concentrated form, or unless 
very much diluted with air, it is irrita- 
ting in the highest degree. In the very 
dilute state, it is occasionally prescribed 
for the inhalation of consumptive patients. 

For the satisfaction of those who rely 
on the authority of a great name, it may 
be stated, that chlorine used in the man- 
ner here recommended, was employed by 
one of the most illustrious of English 
chemists, in the case of the Penitentiary, 
when a violent and fatal disease broke 



out there, and with complete success. 
The operator in this case was Faraday. 
It may occasionally be found more 
convenient to use another mixture for 
the hberation of chlorine gas, in which 
case the following may be employed : — 
One part of manganese is to be drenched 
with foiu- parts by weight of muriatic 
acid (spirits of salts), mixed with one 
part of water. The gas is evolved slowly 
in the cold, and rapidly if assisted by a 
gentle heat. This process is rather more 
expensive, and possesses no advantage 
over the one previously described. 



CHAPTER XX. 

FERMENTING AND DISTILLING. 

In ordinary language, the term fermen- 
tation is employed to signify the peculiar 
changes which take place when a solu- 
tion of sugar, or any vegetable substance 
containing saccharine matter, is converted 
into spirit — this, however, is only one of 
many of such kinds of action, which are 
well known to chemists. The most im- 
portant fermentations are the saccharine 
fermentation, when sugar is formed by a 
change taking place in starch ; the vinous, 
when spirit is formed from sugar; and 
the acetous, in which vinegar or acetic 
acid is formed from spirit. 

The saccharine fermentation, or the 
formation of sugar from starch, is inter- 
esting, though it does not influence such 
operations as are included in our Domes- 
tic Manipulations. If starch is dissolved 
in water, a little wheat flour added, and 
the whole exposed to a moderately warm 
temperature, it will be found that after a 
few days, varying in number with the 
degree of warmth, the starch has disap- 
peared, and the liquid has become sweet 
from the formation of sugar. The same 
change takes place with much greater 



92 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEE. 



rapidity if starch is boiled with a solution 
of malt, which contains an active princi- 
ple called diastase, capable of bringing 
about this fermentation in a short time. 
The formation of sugar from starch is an 
operation which constantly occurs in all 
growing seeds, the effect being to change 
an insoluble substance, such as starch, 
into one Avhich is capable of being dis- 
solved in the juices of the young plant, 
and nourishing it during the early stages of 
its growth. In the operation of malting 
barley, the change is induced artificially, 
for the purpose of producing sugar in the 
malt, which is afterwards made to un- 
dergo the second kind of fermentation. 
nr.mel3^ the vinous, or that in which 
spir't is produced. 

When sugar, either that which natu- 
lally exists, in many plants, or as formed 
from starch as just mentioned, is dis- 
solved in water, so as to form a moder- 
ately weak solution, and the whole ex- 
posed to a degree of warmth varj-ing 
from seventy to eighty degrees, it rapidly 
undergoes a remarkable change, provided 
a small quantity of any vegetable fer- 
ment is present — such as yeast, or the 
juice of the grape, or of many other fruits. 
The sugar wholly disappears, and is re- 
solved into two substances — one a gas, 
termed carbonic acid, which escapes, giv- 
ing rise to a slow efiervesccnce ; and the 
other, a portion of spirit, which remains 
in the liquid. This kind of fermentation 
is umch more difficult to prevent than to 
establish ; in making syrups, it i-s found 
especially annoying; for if the quamity 
of sugar used is too small, the syrup is 
certain to ferment and spoil ; and if too 
much is added, it crystallizes out in the 
solid form ; as a general rule, however, 
it is found that two parts, bj- weight, of 
sugar, to one part, by weight, of water, 
or other liquid — such as the juice of 
fruits, made into a syrup by boiling for a 
short time — neither ferments nor cry.s- 
tallizes. 



In the act of fermentation the spirit 
produced by the process last described is 
changed- into acetic acid, or vinegar. 
Here, also, the presence of some sub- 
stance capable of commencing the fer- 
mentation is requi.site, for pure spirit and 
water will not undergo the change. The 
ferment employed may be the vinegar- 
plant — or it may be a little vinegar, 
which may have been previously formed. 

For the rapid progress of the acetous 
fermentation, a high temperature is re- 
quisite — even as great as about eighty- 
six degrees — and free exposure to air is 
essential. The best vinegar is that made 
from weak Avine, at Orleans ; the plan 
followed is to introduce a portion of vine- 
gar into the vessels, adding the wine at 
intervals, and never quite emptying them. 
In this country, a weak beer is brewed, 
without hops, for the purpose of making 
vinegar, and a small quantity of dilute 
oil of vitriol is added, after the vinegar is 
formed, to destroy the mouldiness that 
is otherwise apt to be present. Vinegar 
may be fonned from any weak spirituous 
liquid; but it should be borne in mind 
that two circumstances are essential to 
success — namely, a high summer tem- 
perature, either natural or artificial, and 
free exposure to air. 

The process of distillation is one which 
is used for separating liquids from each 
other that boil at different degrees of 
heat. In domestic economy, it is most 
frequently employed to obtain spirit, 
more or less flavored, or scented, with 
some volatile essential oil. The appara- 
tus commonly used is the Still, for boil- 
ing the liquid to generate the vapor, and 
a long spirally twisted tube termed the 
worm, which is placed in a tub of cold 
water, and through which the steam 
passes to be condensed. The worm is 
the most objectionable part of the mod- 
ern still ; its great evil is the difficulty 
with which it is cleaned, so as to prevent 
one strong-flavored substance spoiling 



DISTILLATION. 



93 



those which are distilled afterwards. If 
the coils of the worm are not very nu- 
merous, a bullet, with a string attached, 
may be passed through it, and a sponge or 
small bottle-brush, fastened to the sti-ing, 
may be worked backwards and forwards ; 
but if there are several coils, it will be 
found impossible to do this, from the re- 
sistance caused by friction. In this case, 
the only plan is to close one end of the 




Fig. 1. 
worm with a cork, and fill it with a solu- 
tion of caustic alkali, allowing it to re- 
main for some hours, and repeating the 
application with fresh liquid, if it be re- 
quired. 

In Germany, the worm is being super- 
seded bjr an excellent condenser, which 
is so superior that we aie induced to 
give a sketch of it, hoping that it may 
lead to its adoption in this countr}^. The 
vapors from the still pass into the tube 
A (^Fi(j 1), by which they are conducted 
into B, a hollow globe, made to unscrew 
at its centre. The vapors, passing along 
the tulies C. are condensed, and the dis- 
■ tilled liquid drops fiom D. The pipe E 
should convey a constant stream of cold 
water to the bottom of the tub, and this. 
rising as it is warmed by abstracting heat 
from the tubes and globe, should escape by 
F. All the tubes being straight, it is 
obvious that they can be readily cleaned 
from their ends. 

In the laboiatory, distilling is most 
frequently perfoimed with vessels term- 



ed retorts, or even from flasks; but as 
these are not very applicable to domes- 
tic purpo.^es, we pass them over. 

In domestic practice, the still is usual- 
ly employed to obtain some water or 
spirit fiavoied with essential oil, or the 
oil it.«:e]f, and the process should be 
slight'y modified so as to suit each case. 
The vegetable sub.^tance should not be 
placed on the bottom of the still itself, as 
in that case it might become burnt, and 
so give an unpleasant flavor to the 
whole ; but a bottom of wicker-work 
should be placed in the still in the first 
instance for it to lest upon, or a peifora- 
ted boaid. The substance to be distilled 
should be placed in the still, covered with 
water, for some hours before the fire is 
Ughted ; no more water being added than 
suflRcient to cover it, if the preparation of 
oil is the object. 

Herbs, for di.'^tilling, should be collect- 
ed on a dry day, and — unless the oil re- 
sides in the seeds, as in the case of cara- 
way, anise, &c., or in the flowers, as in 
the rose, lavender, &c. — ^just befoi'e the 
flowers have opened, as at that period 
there is the greatest quantity of essential 
oil in the plant. All plants cultivated 
for distillation, should be giown in a 
situation where they can receive a full 
amount of .sun-light, as shade or darkness 
very much tends to prevent the formation 
of essential oil. 

The liquid which comes out of the 
worm, is a mixtuie of water highly fia- 
voied with the substance, and some im- 
di.-solved oil — this latter is sometimes 
heavier and sometimes lighter 
than water, either sinking or 
floating; in the latter case the 
oil may be readily separated by 
filling a bottle with the mix- 
ture, and when the oil has col- 
lected at the top. carrying it 
off by a few threads of cotton 
placed as in the figure {Fig. 2) 




94 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



taking care that they are moistened with 
oil before arranging them ; the cotton 
acts as a syphon, and removes the whole 
of the oil. If the object of the operation 
is to obtain the oil and not the distilled 
water, the latter should be preserved, 
and used again and again with fresh 
herbs, because having in the first opera- 
tion dissolved as much oil as it is capa- 
ble of doing, it causes no loss in the sub- 
sequent distillations. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

LAYING OUT TABLES AND FOLDING 
NAPKINS. 

The art of laying out a table, whether 
for breakfast, luncheon, dinner, tea or 
supper, consists in arranging the various 
dishes, plate, glass, &c., methodically, and 
adhering to the rules we are about to 
make known. 

Much trouble, irregularity, and con- 
fusion will be avoided in a house when 
there is company, if servants are instruct- 
ed to prepaie the table, sideboard, or 
dinner-wagon^ in a similar manner and 
order daily. 

All tables are usually laid out accord- 
ing to the following rules, yet there are 
local peculiarities which will necessarily 
present themselves, and should be adopt- 
ed or rejected, as may appear proper to 
the good housewife : — 

Breakfasts. — The table should be 
covered with a clean white cloth ; the 
cups and saucers arranged at one end, on 
a tray if desirable ; or the coffee-cups 
and saucers may be arranged at the 
right-hand side of one end of the table, 
and the tea-cups and saucers at the left: 
the tea-pot and cofi'ee-pot occupying the 
space between in front, and the urn that 
at the back. Some persons substitute 



cocoa or chocolate for coffee, in which 
case they are to be placed the same. The 
slop-basin and milk-pitcher should be 
placed to the left ; and the cream, and 
hot milk-pitchers, with the sugar basin, 
to the right. 

The remainder of the table should be 
occupied in the centre by the various 
dishes to be partaken of ; while at the 
sides must be ranged a large plate for 
meat, eggs, &c., and a small one for toast, 
rolls, &c., with a small knife and fork for 
each person ; the carving* knife and fork 
being placed point to handle ; the butter 
and bread knives to the right of their 
respective dishes, which occupy the cen- 
tre part, and spoons in front of the hot 
dishes with gravy. Salt-cellars should 
occupy the four corners, and, if required, 
the cruets should be placed in the centre 
of the table. 

Dry toast should never be prepared 
longer than five minutes before serving, 
as it becomes tough, and the buttered, 
soppy and greasy, if too long prepared. 
Hot rolls should be brought to table 
covered with a napkin. 

Every dish should be garnished appro- 
priately, either with sippets, ornamental 
butter, water-cresses, parsley, or some 
one of the garnishes we shall point out 
in a future page. 

The dishes usually set upon the table 
are selected from hot, cold, and cured 
meats ; hot, cold, cured, and potted fish ; 
game ; poultry, cold or devilled ; fruit, 
ripe, preserved, or candied ; dressed and 
undressed vegetables ; meat-pies and 
patties, cold ; eggs ; honey-comb ; and 
savory morsels — as grilled kidneys, 
ham-toast, devils, &c. 

Dejeuners d la fourcTiette are laid the 
same as suppers, except that tea and 
coffee are introduced ; but in sporting 
circles not until the solids are removed. 

When laid for a marriage or christen- 
ing breakfast, a bride's or christening cake 



LAYING THE TABLE. NAPKINS. 



95 



should occupy the centre instead of the 
^pergne or plateau. 

Luncheons, or Noonings. — The hm- 
cheon is laid in two ways ; one wa}- is to 
bring in a butler's tray with let-down 
sides, on which it is previously arranged 
upon a tray cloth, and letting down the 
sides and spreading the cloth upon the 
dining table, to distribute the things as 
required. The other is to lay the cloth 
as for dinner, with the pickle-stand and 
cruets opposite each other ; and, if in 
season, a small vase of flowers in the cen- 
tre ; if not, a water-pitcher and tumblers, 
which may be placed on a side-table at 
other times. The sides of the table are 
occupied by the requisites for each guest, 
viz., two plates, a large and small fork 
and knives, and dessert-spoon, A folded 
napkin, and the bread under, is placed 
upon the plate of each guest. 

Carafes, with the tumblers belonging 
to and placed over them, are laid at 
tiie four corners, with the salt-cellars in 
front of them, between two table-spoons 
laid bowl to handle. 

If French or light wines are served, 
they maj'' be placed in the original bot- 
tles in ornamental wine vases, between 
the top and bottom dishes and the vase 
of flowers, with the corks drawn and 
partially replaced. 

The dishes generally served for lun- 
cheons are the remains of cold meat 
neatly trimmed and garnished : cold game 
hashed or plain ; hashes of all de- 
scriptions ; curries ; minced meats ; cold 
pies, savory, fruit, or plain ; plainly 
cooked cutlets, steaks, and chops ; ome- 
lettes ; bacon ; eggs ; devils and grilled 
bones ; potatoes ; sweetmeats ; butter ; 
cheese ; salad and pickles. In fact al- 
most anything does for lunch, whether 
offish, flesh, fowl, pastry, vegetables, or 
fruit. 

Ale and porter are generally served, 
but occasionally sherry, marsalla. port, 



or home-made wines, are introduced, 
with biscuit and ripe fruit. 

A good housewife should always have 
something in the house ready to convert 
into a neat little luncheon, in case a few 
friends drop in, and it is a.stonishiug 
how a really nice looking affixir may be 
made out of the remains of the dinner 
served the day before : some glass, a 
sprinkle of plate a few flowers, some 
good ale, or a little wirie, and above all, 
a hearty welcome. 

Napkins. — Dinner napkins should be 
about tMcnty-eight inches broad, and 
thirty inches long. They may be folded 
in a variety of wa' s, which impart a 
style to a table, without adding much to 
the expense, and may be readily accom- 
plished with a little practice and atten- 
tion to the following directions and dia- 
grams. 

1. THE MITRE. {Fig. ].) 

Fold the napkin into three parts 
longways, then turn down the right-hand 
corner, and turn up the left-hand one. as 
in Fig. 2, A and B. Turn back the 
point A towards the riglit, so that it 
shall lie behind ; and B to the left, 
so as to be behind D. Double the nap- 
kin back at the line E, then turn up F 
from before and G from behind, when 
they will appear as in Fig 3. Bend the 
corner H towards the right, and tuck it 
behind I. and turn back the corner K to- 
wards the left, at the dotted line, and 
tuck it into a corresponding part at the 
back. The bread is placed under the 
mitre, or in the centre at the top. 

2. THE EXQUISITE. — {Fig. 4.) 

Fold the napkin into three parts long- 
ways, then fold down two-fifths of the 
length from each side, as in Fig. 5, at A ; 
roll up the part B towards the back, re- 
peat on the other side, then turn up the 
corner towards the corner A. and it will 
appear as D. The centre part E is now 



96 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKKEPEK. 



to be turned up at the bottom, and down 
at the top, and the two rolls brought 
under the centre piece, as in Fig. 4. The 
bread is placed under the centre band, K, 
Fig. 4. 

3. THE COLLEGIAN. (Fig. 6.) 

Fold the napkin into three parts long- 
ways, then turn down the two sides to- 
wards you, so that thoy shall appear as 
in Fig. 7 ; then roll up the part A under- 
neath until it looks hke B, Fig. 8. Now 
take the corner B and turn it up towards 
C, so that the edge of the rolled part 
shall be even with the central line ; re- 
peat the same on the other side, and turn 
the whole over, when it will appear as 
in Fig. G. The bread is placed under- 
neath the part K. 

4. THE CINDERELLA. (Fig. 9.) 

Fold the napkin into three parts long- 
ways, then turn down the two sides as 
in Fig. 7 ; turn the napkin over, and roll 
up the lower part as in Fig. 10, A, B. 
Now turn the corner B upwards towards 
C, so that it shall appear as in D ; re- 
peat on the other side, and then bring 
the two parts E together so that they 
shall bend at the dotted line ; and the 
appearance will now be as Fig. 9. The 
bread is placed under the apron part, K, 
Fig. 9. 

5. THE FLIRT. (Fig. 11.) 

Fold the napkin into three parts long- 
ways, then fold across the breadth, con- 
mencing at one extremity, and continu- 
ing to fold from and to yourself in folds 
about two inches broad, until the whole 
is done ; then place in a tumbler, and it 
will appear as in tlie illustration. 

6. THE NEAPOLITAN. (Fig. 12.) 

Fold the napkin into three parts long- 
ways, then fold one of the upper parts 
upon itself from you ; turn over the cloth 
with the part having four folds from you, 



and fold down the two sides so as to ap- 
pear as in Fig. 7 ; then roll up the part 
A underneath, until it appears as in the 
dotted lines iu Fig. 13, at B. Now turn 
up the corner B towards C, so that the 
edge of the rolled part shall be even 
with the central line: repeat the same 
upon the opposite side, and turn the 
whole over, when it will appear* as in 
Fig. 12: the bread being placed under- 
neath the part K, as represented in the 
illustration. 

7. THE " FAVORITE," OR OUR OWN. 

(Fig. 14.) 

Fold the napkin into three parts long- 
ways, then turn down the two edges as 
in Fig. 7, and roll up the part A on both 
sides, until as represented on the right- 
hand side in Fig. 14; then turn it back- 
wards (as A B) on both sides ; now fold 
down the point C towards you, turn over 
the napkin, and fold the two other parts 
from you so that they shall appear as in 
Fig. 15. Turn the napkin over, thus 
folded, and raising the centre part with 
the two thumbs, draw the two ends (A 
and B) together, and pull out the parts 
(C and D) until they appear as in Fig. 
14. The bread is to be placed as repre- 
sented in K, Fig. 14. 

DINNERS. 

Dinners. — The appearance a dinner- 
table presents does not depend so much 
upon a profuseness of viands, as upon 
the neatness, cleanliness, and well-studied 
arrangement of the whole. Taste, if 
well directed, may produce a handsome 
dinner ; whereas three times the amount 
of money niay be expended upon another, 
and yet not make even a respectable ap- 
pearance. 

We cannot too strongly urge the ne- 
cessity of having things done in the same 
manner every day as when there is com- 
pany. The servants become accustomed 



fiH,\. 




jlQ. 4. 




fig- 8. 



FOLDING NAPKINS. 



97 



9 


fig.1. 




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d f 

fig. 6. 



fig. 9. 




fig. 6. 




fig. 10. 



/£7. T. 



/I\ 



/?(^. 18. 



fig. 11. 




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M6 



/(7. 14 




/(T. 18. 



j»i^.ia 




98 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



to waiting properlj'-, things are always 
at hand, and they do not appear awk- 
ward when visitors drop in ; then every 
thing is regular, and goes on smoothly. 




To Lay tlie Cloth.— The table should 
he well polished, and then covered with 
a cloth, over which a fine white damask 
one should be spread. If the white cloth 
is to be kept on after dinner, it is cus- 
tomary to spread a small cloth at either 
end of the table where the large dishes 
are placed, to protect the long cloth from 
accidental spots arising from gravy, &c. ; 
these slips are removed after dinner, and 
the cloth cleaned with crumb-brushes. 
In some houses an entire upper cloth is 
placed upon the table instead of slips, 
and this being removed after dinner, does 
not require the tedious process of brush- 
ing the table-cloth. 

When the cloth has been spread, place 
carafes, with the tumblers belonging to 
and placed over them, between every 
four persons, a salt-cellar between every 
third person, and a large and small knife, 
fork, and spoon, to each guest, with two 
wine-glasses, a champagne-glass, and a 
tumbler, to the right of each, and the 
bread placed in or under folded napkins 
between the knives, forks, and spoons ; 
and at large entertainments or public 
dinners, the name of each guest neatly 



written on a card in front of the napkm, so 
as to prevent confusion. The centre or- 
nament, usually a candehibrnm^ plateau, 
an epergne, or a vase of artificial flowers, 
must now be set on, and the mats for the 
various dishes arranged ; then the wine- 
coolers or ornamental vases placed be- 
tween the centre piece and the top and 
bottom dishes, with the wines in the 
original bottles, loosely corked ; the 
spoons for helping the various dishes, 
asparagus tongs, fish knife and fork or 
slice, and carving knives and forks, are 
placed in front of the respective dishes 
to which they belong; and knife-rests 
opposite to those who have .to carve ; 
with a bill of fare, and a pile of soup- 
plates before those that have to help 
the soup. 

In arranging or laying out a table. 
several things require particular atten- 
tion, and especially the following : — 

Plate should be well cleaned, and have 
a bright polish ; few things look worse 
than to see a greasy-looking epergne and 
streaky spoons. Glass should be well 
rubbed with a wash-leather, dipped in a 
solution of fine whiting and stone-blue, 
and then dried ; afterwards it should be 
polished with an old silk handkerchief. 
Plates and disJies should be hot, other- 
wise the guests will be disgusted by see- 
ing flakes of fat floating about in the 
gravy. Bread should be cut in pieces 
about an inch thick, and each round of a 
loaf into six parts, or if for a dinner 
party, dinner rolls should be ordered. 
The bread is placed under the napkins, 
or on the left of each guest, if dinner 
napkins are not used ; some of the bread 
being placed in a bread-tray covered with 
a crochet cloth upon the sideboard. 
Lights, either at or after the dinner, 
should be subdued, and above the guests, 
if possible, so as to be shed upon the 
table, without intercepting the view. 
Bailees, either bottle, sweet, or boat — 
vegetables, and sliced cucumber, or glazed 



THE DINNER. 



99 



onions for stubble goose, should be placed 
upon the sideboard ; a plate basket for 
removing the soiled plates is ususilh- 
placed under the sideboard, or some other 
convenient part of the room ; and tico 
hiife-trays, covered with napkins, are 
placed upon a butler's tray; these are 
used for removing soiled carvers and 
forks, and the soiled silver. It is useful 
to have a large-sized brad-awl, a cork- 
screw, and funnel, with strainer ; the 
former to break the wire of the cham- 
pagne bottles, and the latter to strain 
port wine, if required to be opened dur- 
ing dinner. 

To lay out the sideboard or tray. — Lit- 
tle requires to be done, except to arrange 
the silver, knives, cruets, and various 
dishes to be placed there. The silver 
should be arranged on one end of the 
sideboard, as m Figs. 1 and 2, the gravy 
spoons being placed bowl to handle, and 
the cheese-scoop, marrow-spoon, and salad 
spoons or scissors, where most conven- 
ient. The knives are placed as in Fig. 3, 
for the convenience of removal, becaute 
by this means a single knife can be ab- 




Figa. \ & 1. 
Rtracted without disturbing the others ; 




Fig». 8 «fc 4. 
carving knives and forks should be placed 



above the others, point to handle. The 

wine-glasses, tumblers, and finger-glasses, 
for dessert, are placed where most con- 
venient, but usually in the centre of the 
back, with ice-plates near to them, and 
the wine-glasses placed in the finger- 
glasses, as in Fig. 4 ; but when only one 
glass is used, that is placed in the centre, 
mo'ith downwards. At very large or 
fashionable dinners, the finger-glasses 
are sometimes placed on the dinner-table 
with the plain and colored wine-glasses 
in them, and the same, refilled, are placed 
on again at dessert. The crr.ets, sauces, 
&c., are placed at one end, and the vege- 
tables, (fee, in the centre front of the side- 
board. 

To place the dishes on the table. — Each 
servant should be provided, at large din- 
ders, with a bill of fare, and instructed at 
small ones, where the dishes are to be 
placed. No two dishes resembling each 
other should be near the same part of 
the table. Soups or broth should always 
be placed at the head of the table ; if 
there are two, top and bottom ; if four, 
top, bottom, and two sides, opposite each 
other, or alternately with fish. Fish 
should be placed at the head of the table ; 
if there are two sorts, have fried at the 
bottom and boiled at the top ; if four, 
arrange the same as the soup. We may 
observe, that a white and a brown, or a 
mild and a high seasoned soup, should 
occupy either side of the centre piece, 
and that it looks handsomer to have fried 
and boiled fish opposite each other, but 
they should never be placed upon the 
same dish. Fish is generally served up- 
on a napkin, the corners of which are 
either turned in or thrown over the fish, 
or upon a piece of simple netting, which 
is turned in all round ; l)ut we recommend 
our readers to use the elegant serviette, 
as being more stylish. 

The first course generally consists of 
soups and fish, which are removed by the 
roasts, stews, &c., of the second course. 



l-OfC. 



100 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. « 



The second covrse, when there are three, 
consists of roasts and stews for the top 
and bottom ; turkey or fowls, ham gar- 
nished, tongue, or fricandeau, for the 
sides ; with small made dishes for corners, 
served in covered dishes, as curries, ra- 
goOts, fricassees, stews, &c. 

When there are two roasts, one should 
be white, and the other brown. Removes 
are generally placed upon large dishes, 
for, as they supply the place of the fish 
and soups, they constitute the princi- 
pal part of the dinner. What are termed 
flancs are not so large as the removes, 
nor so small as the entrees^ or made dish- 
es, and are generally served in a different- 
ly formed dish. 'Ihej are seldom used 
except when there are eighteen or twen- 
ty persons. 

Entrees^ or made dishes, require great 
care in placing them upon the table, other- 
wise the gravy slops over and soils the 
dish ; they are, therefore, usually served 
with a wall of mashed potatoes, rice, or 
other vegetables, to keep them in their 
proper place. They should also be served 
as hot as possible. 

When there is but one principal dish, 
it should be placed at the head of the ta- 
ble. If three dishes, the principal to the 
head, and the others opposite each other, 
near the bottom ; if four, the largest to 
the head, the next size to the foot, and 
the other two at the sides ; if five, place 
the same as for four, with the smallest in 
the centre ; if six, place the same as for 
four, with two small dishes on each side ; 
if seven, put three dishes down the cen- 
tre of the table, and two on each side ; if 
eight, four dishes down the middle, and 
two on each side, at equal distances ; if 
nine, place them in three equal hues, but 
with the proper dishes at the top and 
bottom of the table ; if ten, put four down 
the centre, one at each corner, and one 
on each side, opposite the vacancy be- 
tween the two central dishes; or four 
down the middle and three on each side. 



opposite the vacancies of the centre dish- 
es ; if twelve, place them in three rows 
of four each, or six down the middle, and 
three at equal distances on each side. If 
more than twelve, they must be arranged 
on the same principles, but varying ac- 
cording to number. 

Oval or circular dining-tables require 
to have the dishes arranged in a shape 
corresponding to the table. 

Tlie third course consists of game, deli- 
cate vegetables, dressed in the French 
style, then puddings, creams, jellies, &c. 

When there are only two courses^ the 
first generally consists of soups and 
fish, removed by boiled poultry, ham, 
tongue, stews, roasts, ragouts, curries, or 
made dishes generally, with vegetables. 
The second consists of roasted poultry or 
game at the top and bottom, with dressed 
vegetables, maccaroni, &c., succeeded by 
jellies, creams, preserved fruit, pastry and 
general confectionery. It is generally con- 
trived to give as great a variety as possi- 
ble in these dinners : thus — a jelly, a 
cream, a compote, an ornamental cake, a 
dish of preserved fruit, fritters, a blanc- 
mange, a pudding, &c. 

Salads and celery are usually served 
before the puddings and pastry are in- 
troduced. In Great Britain, after the 
third course, cheese, ornamented butter, 
salad, radishes, celery in a glass bowl or 
on a dish, sliced cucumber (and at small 
parties, marrow-bones), are served. A 
marrow-spoon, cheese-scoop, and butter- 
knife, being required upon the table, are 
to be placed near the dishes, a knife 
and fork near the celery, and a pair of 
salad-scissors or a fork and spoon in the 
bowl with the salad. 

The cheese may be served in a glass 
bowl, and handed round from right to 
left ; or surrounded with the elegant 
serviette, and placed upon the cheese- 
cloth. The bread may be served as 
usual, piled up on a crochet cloth in a 
plated bread-basket placed in the centre. 



ATTENDANCE AT TABLE. 



101 



Waiting at Table. — Much confusion is 
avoided by having an attendant upon 
each side of the table ; or, if the party is 
large, more than one, according to the 
number. The usual number required 
for parties is given below ; and if the in- 
come admit of it, the scale may be in- 
creased according to the second column, 
which will materially add to the comfort 
of the guests. 

Guests. Servants. 

6 12 

12 2 3 

15 3 4 

20 4 6 

30 6 8 

40 9 12 

50 12 20 &c. 

Every attendant should be neatly attired, 
have a white neckcloth and white gloves 
on, should know where all the articles 
reqh-ed are, where the dishes are to be 
placed, and, in fact, be acquainted with 
the whole routine of the party ; and 
therefore it is better to provide each one 
with a bill of fare. 

When every guest is seated, a servant 
appointed for that purpose should stand 
by the side of each dish, with the right 
hand upon the cover ; and as soon as 
grace is said, the cover is to be removed, 
and placed in some convenient pare of the 
room. The plates for soup should then 
be taken singly from the pile opposite 
the person serving it, and carried to those 
guests who desire that particular soup, 
observing that ladies are to be attended 
to before gentlemen, and that these 
should commence from the head of the 
table, continuing until both sides are 
helped. 

Soon after the soup has been served, 
the servants may pass down each side of 
the table, and ask each guest what they 
will take, helping them to the dish de- 
sired as soon as it can be procured. 
When champagne is given, it is handed 
7 



round upon a waiter or salver at small 
parties, commencing at the right-hand 
side of the table from the top and bottom, 
simultaneously, without any distinction 
as regards ladies or gentlemen. In large 
parties — and we prefer the arrangement 
ourselves even in small ones — the bottle 
being enveloped as far as the neck with 
a clean dinner-napkin, the wine is helped 
in the same order as before ; but in- 
stead of being handed round on a salver, 
the servants pour the wine into the glass, 
at the right-hand side of each guest. By 
these means there is less danger of the 
glasses being broken by any awkward 
collision. The champagne is generally 
iced in summer, and cool in winter, and 
is served as soon as the soup is finished, 
or just after the guests have been helped 
to the second course of removes. 

Liqueurs are handed round when sweets 
are on the table. Sauces are handed 
round in the sauce-boat, and when served, 
placed on the side-board or dinner 




wagon ; if only a family party, they are 



102 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



returned to the table. Sweet sauces are 
handed round in glass dishes, and bottle 
sauces in a stand or ba.sket made for that 
purpose. 

In removing the dinner thing,% one 
servant goes round the table ^\'ith a 
butler's tray, and the other removes and 
places the things upon it. The cloth is 
then brushed with a crumb-brush ; or 
the two sides are turned in, and then the 
Qloth dexterously jerked oft" the table, 
the lights replaced, and the dessert set 
on. 

When knives, forks, and spoons are re- 
moved from dishes or plates, they should 
be placed in proper trays covered with 
napkins ; one being used for the silver, the 
other for the steel articles. 

When plates or dishes are removed from 
the table, great care is to be observed 
with respect to holding them horizontallj^ 
otherwise the gravy, syrup, or liquid, 
may injure the dresses of the guests. 

In some circles the fashion prevails of 
placing finger-glasses on table imme- 
diately preceding dessert ; but in others, 
cut-glass bowls, partially filled with rose 
or orange flower water, iced in summer 
and lukewarm in winter, are handed down 
each side of the table, upon salvers ; into 
these the guest dips the corner of the 
dinner napkin, and just touches the lips 
and the tips of the fingers. 

Desserts, Teas, and Suppers. 

The Dessert. — The dessert may con- 
sist of merely two dishes of fruit for the 
top and bottom ; dried fruits, biscuits, 
filberts, &c., for the sides and corners ; 
and a cake for the centre. 

When the party is large, and ices are 
served, the ice- plates are placed round 
the table, the ice-pails at both ends of 
the table, and dishes with wafer-biscuits, 
at the sides. Some persons have the ices 
served in glass dishes, which, together with 
the wafer biscuits, are handed round be- 
fore the usual dessert. 



When there is preserved ginger, it 
follows the ices, as it serves to stinnilate 
the palate, so that the delicious coolness 
of the wines may be better appreciated. 

The side and corner dishes usuallj' put 
on for dessert, consist of ; — Comp tcs 
in glass dishes ; frosted fruit served on 
lace-paper, in small glass dishes ; pre- 
served and dried fruits, in glass dishes ; 
biscuits, plain and fancy ; fresh fruit, 
served in dishes surrounded with leaves 
or moss ; olives, wafer biscuits, brandy- 
scrolls, &c. 

The centre dish may consist either 
of a savoy or an ornamental cake, on an 
elevated stand — a group of waxen fruit,, 
surroianded with moss — a melon — a pine 
apple — grapes — or a vase of flowers. 

Each plate should contain a knife, fork, 
and spoon, with two wine-glasses, ar- 
ranged upon a d'oyley, as in Fig. 5. 
These are to be placed before each guest, 
and a finger-glass, with cold w^ater in 




Fig. 5. 



summer, and luke-'warm water in winter, 
on the right of each plate ; with t'Tape- 
scissors, and melon knife and fork, before 
their respective dishes. Glass bowls 
containing sifted sugar, with pierced 
ladles, or others filled with cream, arc to 
be placed near the centre dish, if they 
are required. A cut glass pitcher with 
a tumbler on either side should be 



SUPPEES. TRUSSING. 



103 



placed in a convenient part of the centre 
of the table. 

The wine, either cooled or not, should 
be placed at both ends of the table, or at 
the bottom, if only a small party, the 
decanters being placed in castors, 
though this fashion is now nearly abol- 
ished. 

Zests are put down after the dessert is 
removed, and consist chiefly of anchovy 
toasts, devilled poultry and game, and 
biscuits, gravy toast, grills, &c. 

Coffee is the last thing served, and is 
generally handed round upon a salver ; 
after this, the gentlemen withdraw to the 
drawing-room. 

Tea. — After a dinner party, the tea is 
generally handed round by two servants, 
the one having tea and coffee, with hot 
milk, cream, and sugar upon one tray ; 
the other having thinly cut and rolled 
bread and butter, biscuits and cake, upon 
another tray. 

If served at an evening party or dance, 
a servant helps the guests to tea or cof- 
fee, which is arranged upon a side-table 
in a small room. The tea and coffee oc- 
cupy the two ends of the table, on either 
side of the urn, which is placed in the 
centre and back. In front of the urn 
are ranged the sugar-candy for coffee, 
sugar, hot milk, cream, bread and butter, 
cake, and biscuits. 

Tea, when only for a small party, may 
be brought in upon a tray, the tea and 
coffee-pots occupying the centre of the 
tray ; the cups and saucers the front ; 
and the hot milk, cream, slop-basin, and 
sugar, the ends. The urn is placed at 
the back of the tray ; and the bread and 
butter, cut or not, with cake, biscuits, 
muffins, crumpets, or toast, at the sides. 

Suppers. — The great secret of laying 
out a supper consists in arranging the 
china, glass, silver, linen, lights, confec- 
tionery, substantials, trifles, flowers, and 
other articles, with a due regard to form, 
color, size, and material. 



A supper table should neither be too 
much crowded, nor too scanty, nor scat- 
tered and broken up with small dishes. 
Two dishes of the same description 
should not be placed near each other: 
dishes should not be heaped up as if for 
a ploughman's repast, but contain suffi- 
cient to make them look well, without 
being over or under-done as regards 
quantity. 

Hot suppers are now seldom served ; 
for people dine later than they did for- 
merly ; and besides being more expen- 
sive than cold ones, they also give more 
trouble. 

The centre of the table is generally oc- 
cupied by an epergne, vase of flowers, 
globe of fish upon an elevated stand, a 
plateau, or sm^all fountain ; around which 
are arranged : — Dried, preserved, frosted, 
or candied fruits ; custards, jellies, and 
trifles, in glasses ; and small biscuits. 
The top and bottom of the table are fur- 
nished with game, fowls, or meat ; the 
sides have dishes of ham sliced; tongue ; 
collared, potted, hung, and grated beef; 
brawn, mock or real ; savory pies ; lob- 
sters ; oysters ; dressed crab or cray-fish ; 
prawn pyramids ; sandwiches of ham, 
beef, tongue, anchovy, or other savory 
morsels ; tarts, tartlets ; cake, biscuits ; 
whipped and other creams ; jellies, blanc- 
mange ; caramel baskets ; patties, &c. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

TRUSSING ANT> CARVING. 

Poultry. — The feathers must be pluck- 
ed as soon as possible after killing — and 
the down singed off* with lighted paper, 
the crop emptied by a slit cut in the back 
of the neck, the vent opened to clean out 
the entrails, the gall-bag carefully remov- 
ed, and the liver and gizzard cleansed in 
cold water. The necks are to be cut off 
close to the body, the skiu being pushed 



104 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



up above the part where it is cut, and 
afterwards drawn down and wrapped 
over the end of the neck. Before fasten- 
ing it down, pour cold water through the 
body of the fowl. The back-bone and 
two bones leading to the pinions may be 
broken, and then the bird is to be trussed. 

Carving. — The carving-knife for poul- 
try and game is smaller and lighter than 
that for meat ; the point is more peaked, 
and the handle longer. 

In cutting up wild-fowl, duck, goose, 
or turkey, more prime pieces may be ob- 
tained by carving slices from pinion to 
pinion without making wings, which is 
a material advantage in distributing the 
bird when the party is large. 

To Truss a Gooe". — Pick and stub it 
clean, cut the feet off at the joint, and 
the pinion off at the first joint. Then 
cut off the neck close to the back, leav- 
ing the skin of the neck long enough to 
turn over the back. Pull out the throat, 
and tie a knot at the end. Loosen the 
liver and other matters at the breast end 
with the middle finger, and cut it open 
between the vent and the rump. Draw 
out the entrails, wipe the body out clean 
with a cloth, beat the breast-bone flat 
with a rolling pin, put a skewer into the 
wing, and draw the legs up close ; put 
the skewer through the middle of the 
leg, and through the body, and the same 
on the other side. Put another skewer 
in the small of the leg, tuck it close 
down to the sidesman, run it through, 
and do the same on the other side. Cut 
off the end of the vent, and make a hole 
large enough for the passage of the rump, 
as by that means it will keep in the sea- 
eoning much better. The best parts are 
the breast slices ; the fleshy part of the 
wing, which may be divided from the 
pinion ; the thigh-bone, which may be 
easily divided in the joint from the leg- 
bone ; the pinion ; and next, the side- 
bones. The rump is a nice piece to those 



who like it ; and the carcass is preferred 
by some to other parts. 

To Trnss a Turl-ey. — When the bird ia 
picked carefully, break the leg bone close 
to the foot, hang on a hook, and draw out 
the strings fi-om the thigh ; cut the neck 
close off to the back, taking care to leave 
the crop-skin long enough to turn over 
the back. Remove the crop, and loosen 
the liver and gut at the throat end with 
the middle finger. Cut off the vent, re- 
move the gut, pull out the gizzard with 
a crooked wire, and the liver will soon 
follow ; but be careful not to break the 
gall. Wipe the inside perfectly clean 
with a wet cloth, then cut the breast-bone 
through on each side close to the back, 
and draw the legs close to the crop, then 
put a cloth on the breast, and beat the 
thigh bone down with a rolling-pin till it 
lies flat. 

If the turkej' is to be trussed for hail- 
ing ., cut the first Joint of the legs off; 
pass the middle finger into the in- 
side, raise the skin of the legs and put 
them under the apron of the bird. Put 
a skewer into the joint of the wing and 
the middle joint of the leg, and run it 
through the body and the other leg and 
wing. The liver and gizzard must be 
put in the pinions, care being taken to 
open and previously remove the contents 
of the latter ; the gall bladder must also 
be detached from the liver. Then turn 
the small end of the pinion on the back, 
and tie a packthread over the ends of the 
legs to keep them in their places. 

If the turkey is to be roasted, leave 
the legs on, ptit a skewer in the joint of 
the wing, tuck the legs close up, and put 
the skewer through the middle of the 
legs and body ; on the other side put an- 
other skewer in at the small part of the 
leg. Put it close on the outside of the 
sidesman, and push the skewer through, 
and the same on the other side. Put the 
liver and gizzard between the pinions. 



TKUSSING. 



105 



and turn the point of the pinion on the 
back. Then put, close above the pinions, 
another skewer through the body of the 
bird. 

To Truss Fowls. — Fowls must be picked 
very clean, and the neck cut off close to 
the back. Take out the crop, and, with the 
middle finger, loosen the liver and other 
parts. Out off the vent, draw it clean, 
and beat the breast-bone flat with a roll- 
ing pin. 

If the fowl is to be lolled, cut off the 
nails of the feet, and tuck them down 
close to the legs. Put your finger into 
the inside, and raise the skin of the legs ; 
then cut a hole in the top of the skin, 
and put the legs under. Put a skewer 
in the first joint of the pinion, and bring 
■the middle of the leg close to it ; put a 
skewer through the middle of the leg, 
and tlu-ough the body, and then do the 
same on the other side. Open the giz- 
zard, remove the contents, and wash it 
well ; remove the gall-bladder from the 
liver. Put the gizzard and the liver in 
the pinions, turn the points on the back, 
and tie a string over the tops of the legs, 
to keep them in their proper places. 

If the fowl is to be roasted, put a 
skewer in the first joint of the pinion, 
and bring the middle of the leg close to 
it. Put the skewer through the middle 
of the leg, and through the body, and do 
the same on the other side. Put another 
skewer in the small of the leg, and 
through the sidesman ; do the same on 
the other side, and then put another 
through the skin of the feet, which 
should have the nails cut ofi". 

The prime parts of a fowl, whether 
roasted or boiled, are the wings, breast 
and merry -thought ; and next to these, 
the neck-bones and side-bones ; the legs 
are rather coarse — of a boiled fowl, how- 
ever, the legs are rather more tender than 
a roasted one ; of the leg of a fowl the 
thigh is the better part, and therefore 



when given to any one should be sepa- 
rated from the drum-stick, which is done 
by passing the knife underneath, in the 
hollow, and turning the thigh-bone back 
from the leg-bone. 

To Truss GMclcens. — Pick and draw them 
in the same manner as you would fowls ; 
but, as their skins are very tender, plunge 
them into scalding water, and remove, 
when the feathers will come off" readily. 

If they are to be hailed, cut off" the nails, 
notch the sinews on each side of the joint 
put the feet in at the vent, and then peel 
the rump. Draw the skin tight over 
the legs, put a skewer in the first joint 
of the pinion, and bring the middle of 
the legs close. Put the skewer through 
the middle of the legs, and through the 
body; and do the same on the other 
side. Clean the gizzard, and remove the 
gall from the fiver ; put them into the 
pinions, and turn the points on the back. 

If for roasting, cut off the feet, put a 
skewer in the first joint of the pinions, 
and bring the middle of the legs close. 
Run the skewer through the middle of the 
legs and body, and do the same on the 
other side. Put another skewer into the 
sidesman, put the legs between the apron 
and the sidesman, and run the skewer 
through. Having cleaned the liver and 
gizzard, put them under the pinions, turn 
the points on the back, and pull the breast- 
skin over the neck. 

To Truss Pheasants. — Pick them clean, 
cut a slit at the back of the neck, take 
out the crop, loosen the liver, and gut the 
breast with the fore-finger; then cut off the 
vent, and draw them. Cut off the pinion 
at the first joint, and wipe out the in- 
side with the pinion. Beat the breast- 
bone flat with a roUing-pin, put a skewer 
in the pinion, and bring the middle of 
the legs close. Then run the skewer 
through the legs, body, and the other 
pinion, twist the head, and put it on the 



106 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



end of the skewer, with the bill fronting 
the breast. Put another skewer into 
the sidesman, and put the legs close on 
each side of the apron, and then run the 
skewer through all. If you wish the 
cock-plieasant to look well, leave the beau- 
tiful feathers on the head, and cover with 
piper to protect them from the fire. 
Save the long feather.s from the tail ; 
and vvlien cooked, stick them into the 
rump before sending to table. 

If the pheasants are for ioiling. put 
the legs in the same manner as in truss- 
ing a fowl. 

To Truss Pigeons. — Pick clean, take off 
the neck close to the back ; then remove 
the crop, cut off the vent, and draw out the 
entrails and gizzard, but leave the liver, 
as a pigeon has no gall-bladder. 

If for roasting^ cut off the toes, cut a 
slit in one of the legs, and put the other 
through it. Draw the leg tight to the 
pinion, put a skewer through the pinion, 
legs, and body, and with the handle of 
the knife break the breast fiat. Clean 
the gizzard, and put it under one of the 
pinions, and turn the points on the back. 

If for ioiling or stetcing, cut the feet 
off at the joint, turn the legs, and stick 
them in the sides, close to the pinions. 
If for a j)ie, they must be done in the 
same manner. 

To Truss Wild Foicl. — Pick clean, cut 
off the neck close to the back, and, with 
the middle finger, loosen the liver and 
other parts. Cut off the pinions at the 
first joint ; then cut a slit betvA-een the 
vent and the rump, and draw them clean. 
Clean them properly with the long feath- 
ers on the wing, cut off the nails, and turn 
the feet close to the legs. Put a skewer 
in the pinion, pull the legs close to the 
breast, and run the skewer through the 
legs, body, and the other pinion. Out off 
the end of the vent, and put the rump 
through it. 



All kinds of wild-fowl are to be truss- 
ed thus : 

To Trvss Woodcock, Plover and Snipe. 
— If the.'se birds are not very fresh, great 
care must be taken in picking them, as 
thej^ are very tender to pick at any time ; 
for even the heat of the hand will some- 
times take off the skin, which will de- 
stroy the beauty of the bird. When 
picked clean, cut the pinions in the first 
joint, and with the handle -^^°'''''*^^ 

of a knife beat the breast- l!^!^""Vs^iv 
bone flat. Turn the legs ^EffliSllpli^^P* 

close to the thighs, and tie them together 
at the joints. Put the thighs close to 
the pinions, put a skewer into the pin- 
ions, and run it through the thighs, body, 
and other pinions. Skin the head, turn 
it, take out the eyes, and put the head ou 
the point of the skewer, with the bill 
close to the breast. These birds miut 
never be drawn. 

To Truss small Birds. — Pick well, cut 
off their heads, and the pinions of the 
first joint. Beat the breast-bone flat, and 
turn the feet close to the legs, and put 
one into the other. Draw out the gizzaid, 
and run a skewer through the middle of 
the bodies. Tie the skewer fast to the 
spit when you put them down to roast. 

To Truss Hare or Eabhit. — A Tiare or 
rabbit should be patuiclied., or cleaned, as 
soon as it is killed. The inside should be 
kept dry and peppered. When trussed, 
the sinews of the hind-legs must be cut, 
and the legs turned towards the head and 
fastened to the sides. The fore-legs must 
be turned to meet the hind-legs, and fas- 
tened, with slight skewers to the body. 
The head is thrown back and kept in 
place by a skewer pas.sed through it. 
The stuffing is put in, and the skin sew- 
ed up. A string fastens all compactly 
together. The ears of a rabbit are to be 
cut off when roasted or boiled. 



CARVING. 



107 



CARVING. 

Ladies ought especially to make carv- 
ing a study ; at their own houses, they 
grace the table, and should be enabled to 
perform the task allotted to them with 
suflBcient skill to prevent remark or the 
calling forth of eager proffers of assist- 
ance from good-natured visitors near, 
who probably would not present any bet- 
ter claim to a neat performance. 

Carving presents no difiSculties ; it re- 
quires simply knowledge. All display 
of exertion or violence are in very bad 
taste ; for, if not an evidence of the 
want of ability on the part of the car- 
ver, they present a very strong testi- 
mony of the toughness of a joint or the 
more than fuU age of a bird : in both 
cases they should be avoided. A good 
knife of moderate size, sufficient length 
of handle, and very sharp, is requisite ; 
for a lady it should be light, and smaller 
than that used by gentlemen. Fowls are 
very easily carved, and joints, such as 
loins, breasts, fore-quarters, &c. The 
butcher should have strict injunctions to 
separate the joints well. 

The dish upon which the article to be 
carved is placed, should be conveniently 
near to the carver, so that he has full 
control over it; for if far off, nothing 
can prevent an ungraceful appearance, 
nor a diflBculty in performing that which 
in its proper place could be achieved with 
ease. 

In serving fish, some nicety and care 
must be exercised ; here lightness of hand 
and dexterity of management is neces- 
sary, and can only be acquired by prac- 
tice. The flakes which, in such fish as 
salmon and cod are large, should not be 
broken in serving, for the beauty of the 
fish is then destroyed, and the appetite 
for it injured. In addition to the skill 
in the use of the knife, there is also re- 
quired another description of knowledge, 
and that is an acquaintance with the best 
parts of the joint, fowl, or fish being 



carved. Thus, in a haunch of venison, 
the fat, which is a favorite, must be serv- 
ed with each slice ; in the shoulder of 
mutton there are some delicate cuts in 
the under part. The breast and wings 
are the best parts of a fowl, the trail of 
a woodcock on a toast is the choicest 
part of the bird. In fish a part of the 
roe, melt, or liver should accompany the 
piece of fish served ; the list, however, 
is too numerous to mention here ; and, 
indeed, the knowledge can only be ac- 
quired by experience. In large establish- 
ments the gross dishes are carved at the 
buffet by the butler, but in general they 
are placed upon the table. 

Fish is served with a fish-slice, or the 
new fish-knife and fork, and requires 
very little carving, care being required, 
however, not to break the flakes, which, 
from their size, add much to the beauty 
of cod and salmon. Serve part of the 
roe, melt, or liver, to each person. The 
heads of carp, part of those of cod and 
salmon, sounds of cod, and fins of turbot, 
are likewise considered delicacies. 




Mackerel 

Should be deprived of the head and tail 
by passing the slice across in the direc- 
tion of lines 1 and 2 ; they should then 
be divided down the back, so as to assist 
each person to a slice ; but if less is re- 
quired, the thicker end should be given, 
as it is more esteemed. If the roe is 
asked for, it will be found between 1 and 
2. 

Barbel, Carjp, Haddock, Herring, Perch, 
Whiting, &c., should be helped the same 



108 



THE PEACTICAL HOUBEKEEPEK. 



as Mackerel ; remembering that the head 
of the Carp is esteemed a delicacy. 




Cod's Head and Shoulders. 

Pass the fish-slice or knife from 1 to 6 
down to the bone ; then help pieces from 
between 1 — 2, and 3—4, and with each 
slice give a piece of the sound, which 
lies under the back-bone, and is procured 
by passing the knife in the direction 4 — 
5. There are many delicate parts about 
the head, particularly the oyster, which 
is the cheek, below the eye ; and a great 
deal of the jelly kind, which lies about 
the jaws. The tongue aud palate are 
considered delicacies, and are obtained 
by passing the slice or a spoon into the 
mouth. 




Salmon. 

Give a portion of the back and belly 
to each person, or as desired. If a whole 
salmon is served, remember that the 
choice parts are next the head, the thin 
part is the next best, and the tail the 
least esteemed. Make an incision along 
the back, 9 to 10, and another from 1 to 
2, and 3 to 4; cut the thickest part, be- 
tween 5—6. 10—2, for the lean; and 
7—8 for the fot. When the fish is very 
thick, do not help too near the bone, as 
the flavor and color are not so good. 

Although carving with ease and ele- 
gance is a very necessary accomplish- 
ment, yet most people are lamentably 



deficient not only in the art of dissecting 
winged game and poultry, but also in 
the important point of knowing the parts 
most generally esteemed. Practice only 
can make good carvers ; but the direc- 
tions here given, vrith accompanying 
plates, will enable any one to disjoint a 
fowl, and avoid the awkwardness of dis- 
figuring a joint. 

In the first place, whatever is to be 
carved should be set in a dish sufficiently 
large for turning it if necessary ; but the 
dish itself should not be moved from its 
position, which should be so close before 
the carver as only to leave room for the 
plates. The carving-knife should be 
light, sharp, well-tempered, and of a size 
proportioned to the joint, strength being 
less required than address in the manner 
of using it. Large solid joints, such as 
ham, fillet of veal, and salt beef, cannot 
be cut too thin ; but mutton, roast pork, 
and the other joints of veal, should never 
be served in very slender slices. 

A Bomid (buttock) or Aitch-bone of 
Beef. — Pare off from the upper part, of 




Aitch-bone of Bee£ 
either, a slice from the whole surface, of 
about half an inch thick, and put it aside ; 
then cut thin slices of both lean and fat, 
in the direction from a to 5. The soft 
fat, which resembles marrow, lies at the 
back of the aitch-bone, below c, but the 
firm fat must be cut in slender horizon- 
tal slices at ff, and is much better than 
the soft when eaten cold. 

Ribs of Beef.— Cut along the whole 
length of the bone, from end to end, a to 



CAUVING. 



109 



i, either commencing in the centre or at 
one side, having the thin end towards 
you ; but if cut from the bone and form- 
ed into a round, with the fat end doubled 
into the centre, it must then be cut in 
the same manner as the round of beef. 




Brisket of Beef. 

Brisl'et of Beef must be carved in the 
direction 1 and 2, quite down to the bone, 
after cutting off the outside, which should 
be about three-quarters of an inch tliick. 

Sirloin of Beef . — Cut in the same man- 




Sirloin of Beef, 
ner as the ribs, commencing either at the 
centre or the side, as from a to J. The 
under part should be cut across the bone, 
as at c for the lean, and d for the rich fat ; 
many persons prefer the under to the 
upper part, the meat being more tender. 
Fillet of Veal. — Carve it in the same 




Fillet of Veal. 

manner as the round of beef; but the up- 



per slice should be cut somewhat thmner, 
as most persons like a little of the brown, 
and a portion of it should be served along 
with each slice, together with a slice of 
the fat and stuffing, which is skewered 
within the flap. 

Neck of Veal. — Cut across the ribs, as 
I 




Neck of Veal, 
at a to J ; the small bones, as at c to ^, 
being cut ofiF, divided, and served separate- 
ly, for it is not only a tedious, but a vul- 
gar operation to attempt to disjoint the 
ribs. 

Loin of Veal. — The joint is placed in 
the dish in the same manner as a sirloin 
of beef, but should be turned up, and the 
whole of the kidney and fat cut out ; the 
fat being iisually put upon a dry toast 
and served as marrow. The loin is then 
returned to its former position, and the 
meat should be cut across the ribs as in 
the neck, serving it with a shce of kid- 
ney. 




Knuckle of Veal. 

Knuckle of Veal is to be carved in the 
direction 1 — 2. The most delicate fat 
lies about the part 4, and if cut in the 
line 3 — 4, the two bones, between which 
the marrowy fat lies, will be divided. 

Breast of Veal, being very gristly, is 



no 



THE PRACTICAL HOTTSEKEEPER. 



not easily divided into pieces. In order, 
therefore, to avoid this diflBculty, put 
your knife at a about four inches from 




Breast of Veal, 
the edge of the thickest part (which is 
called " the brisket"), and cut through 
it to J, to separate it from the long ribs : 
cut the short hones across, as at d, d, d^ 
and the long ones as at c,c,c; ask which is 
chosen, and help accordingly. The re- 
maining scrag part is seldom served at 
table, but forms an excellent stew when 
dressed in the French mode. 

Shoulder of Veal. — Cut in the same 
manner as a shoulder of mutton, begin- 
ning on the under side. 

Calfs Head. — Cut slices from a to & in 




Calf s Head, 
the figure, which describes only half 
the head, letting the knife go close to the 
bono. Many like the eye at c, which 
you roust cut out with the point of your 
knife, and divide in two, along with some 
of the glutinous bits which surround it. 
If the jaw-bone be taken off, there will 
be found some fine lean, and under the 
head is the palate, which is reckoned a 
deUcacy. 

The tongue and brains are dished sep- 
arately, but served in small portions 
along with the head. 



Leg of Mutton. — The best part of a leg 




Leg of Mutton. 

of mutton, whether boiled or roasted, is 
midway between the knuckle and the 
broad end. Begin to help there from the 
roundest and thickest part, by cutting 
slices, not too thin, from b down to c. 
This part is the most juicy ; but many 
prefer the knuckle, which, in fine mutton, 
will be very tender, though dry. There 
are very fine slices in the back of the leg ; 
therefore, if the party be large, turn it up 
and cut the broad end ; not across in the 
direction you did the other side, hut long- 
wise, from the thick end to the knuckle- 
bone. To (flit out the cramp-bone, which 
some persons look upon as a dehcacy, 
pass your knife under in the direction of 
e, and it will be found between that and d. 

Shoulder of Mutton, though commonly 
looked upon as a very homely joint, is 
by many preferred to the leg, as there is 
much variety of flavor, as well as texture, 
in both the upper and under parts. 

The figure represents it laid in the dish 
as always served, with its bach upper- 
most. Cut through it from a down to 




Shoulder of Mutton. 



the blade-bone at b ; afterwards slice it 
along each side of the blade-bone from c 



CAEVING. 



Ill 



c h. The prime part of the fat lies on 
the outer edge, and is to be cut in thin 
slices in the direction of d. 

The under part^ as here represented, 




contains many favorite pieces of different 
sorts, as, crosswise, in slices, near thjB 
shank-bone at h; and, lengthwise, in 
broad pieces, at the farther end a; as 
well as in the middle and sides in the 
manner designated at c and d. 

Should it be intended to reserve a por- 
tion of the joint to be eaten cold, all this 
undermost part should be first cut away 
and served separately, both as it eats bet- 
ter hot than cold, and as the upper re- 
maining part will appear more sightly in 
the table. 

Loin of Mutton. — Cut the joints into 
chops and serve them separately ; or cut 
slices the whole length of the loin ; or 
run the knife along the chine-bone, and 
then slice it, the fat and lean together, 
as shown in the cut of the saddle, in 
the next column. 

Neck of Mutton. — It should be prepar- 
ed for table as follows: — Cut off the 
scrag; have the chine-bone carefully 
sawn off, and .also the top of the long 
bones (about an inch and a half) and the 
thin part turned under ; carve in the di- 
rection of the bones. 

The scrag of mutton^ when roasted, is 
very frequently separated from the ribs 
of the neck, and in that case the meat 
and bones may be helped together. 

Saddle of Mutton. — Cut in long and 
rather thin slices from the tail to the 
end, beginning at each side close to the 



back-bone, from a to &, with slices of fat 




Saddle of Mutton, 
from c to d ; or along the bone which 
divides the two loins, so as to loosen 
from it the whole of the meat from that 
side which you then cut crosswise, thus 
giving with each slice both fat and lean. 
The tail end is usually divided and partly 
turned up. Some butchers also skewer 
the kidneys across the incision, but it is 
not usual at genteel tables, and the inci 
sion is better omitted. 




Tore-Quarter of Lamb. Haunch of Venison. 



112 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



Haunch of Mutton. — A haunch is the 
leg and part of the loin, and is cut in the 
same manner as a haunch of venison. 

Fore-Quarter of Lmnb. — Pass the 
knife under the shoulder in the direction 
of a, c, 5, d. so as to separate it from the 
ribs without cutting the meat too much 
off the bones. A Seville orange or 
lemon should then be divided, the halves 
sprinkled with salt and pepper, and the 
juice squeezed over the under part. A 
little cold or melted butter is then put 
between both parts, after which the 
shoulder is placed in a separate dish to 
be helped by some other person. Divide 
the ribs from d to e, and then serve the 
necky, and breast g, as may be chosen. 

Haunch of Venison. — Have the joint 
lengthwise before you, the knuckle being 
the faithest point. Cut from a to 5, but 
be careful not to let out the gravy ; then 
cut along the whole length from a down 
to d. The knife should slope in making 
the first cut, and then the whole of the 
gravy will be received in the well. The 
greater part of the fat, which is the fa- 
vorite portion, will be found at the left 
side, and care must be taken to serve 
some with each slice. 

Nech of Venison. — Cut across the ribs 
diagonally ; or it may be cut in slices 
tlie whole lengtli of the neck. The first 
method is equally good, and much more 
economical. 




Leg of Pork. 

A leg o/"PorJ!', whether boiled or roast- 
ed, is can'cd the same. Commence about 
midway, between the knuckle and the 
thick end, and cut thin deep slices from 
either side of the line 1 to 2. 



Porlc. — In helping the roast loin and 
leg, your knife must follow the direction 
of the scores cut by the oook upon the 
skin which forms the crackling, as it is 
too crisp for being conveniently divided, 
and cannot therefore be cut across the 
bones of the ribs, as in loin of mutton. 
.The scoies upon the roasted leg are, how- 
ever, always marked too broadly for 
single cuts ; the crackling must therefore 
be lif ed up from the back to allow of 
thin slices being cut from the meat ; the 
seasoning is under the skin at the larger 
end. 




Ham. — Serve it with the back upwards, 
sometimes ornamented, and generally 
having, as in France, the shank-bone 
covered with cut paper. Begin in the 
middle by cutting long and very thin 
slices from a to &, continuing down to 
the thick fat at the broad end. The first 
slice should be wedge-shaped, that all the 
others may be cut slanting, which gives 
a handsome appearance to them. Many 
persons, however, prefer the hock at d 
as having more flavor ; it is then carved 
lengthwise from c to d. 




A Tongue. 
A Tongue should be cut across, nearly 



CAEVING. 



113 



through the middle, at the line 1, and thin 
slices taken from each side ; a portion of 
the fat, which is situated at the root of the 
tongue, being helped with each. 




Eoast Pig. 

SucMng-pig. — The cook usually divides 
the body before it is sent to table — as 
thus — and garnishes the dish with the 
jaws and ears. 

Separate a shoulder from one side, and 
then the leg, according to the direction 
given by the line along the carcass. The 
ribs are then to be divided ; and an ear 
or jaw presented with them, and plenty 
of sauce and stuffing. The joints may 
either be divided into two each, or pieces 
may be cut from them. The ribs are 
reckoned the finest part ; but some peo- 
ple prefer the neck end, between the 
shoulders. 




Babbit. 

Rabbits. — Put the point of the knife 
under the shoulder at h^ and so cut all 
the way down to the rump, along the 
sides of the backbone, in the limb &, a, 
cuttmg it in moderately thick slices ; or, 
after removing the shoulders and legs, 
cut the back crosswise in four or five 
pieces ; but this can only be done when 
the rabbit is very young, or when it is 
boned. To separate the legs and 
shoulders, put the knife between the leg 



and back, and give it a little turn in- 
wards at the joint, which you must en- 
deavor to hit, and not to break by force. 
The shoulders may be removed by a 
circular cut around them. The back is 
the most delicate part, and next to that 
the thighs. A portion of the stuflBng 
should be served with each slice. The 
brains and ears of sucking-pig and rabbit 
are also considered epicurean titbits, 
which must not be neglected ; wherefore, 
when every one is helped, cut off the 
head, put your knife between the upper 
and lower jaw and divide them, which 
will enable you to lay the upper flat on 
your plate ; then put the point of the 
knife into the centre, and cut the head 
into two. 




Boiled Rabbit. 

Boiled Eahhits. — The legs and shoul- 
ders should be first taken off, and then 
the back cut across into two parts, 
which is easily done by a bend of the 
knife in the joint underneath, about the 
middle ' of the back. The back is the 
best, and some of the liver should al- 
ways accompany it. 

The carving of both winged game 
and POULTRY requires more delicacy of 
hand and nicety in hitting the joints 
than the cutting of large pieces of meat^ 
and, to be neatly done, requires consider- 
able practice. 




Eoast Turl^;ey. 
Roaat Turhey. — Cut long slices from 



each side of the breast down to the ribs, 
beginning at a J from the wing to the 
breastbone. Then turn the turkey upon 
the side nearest you, and cut off the leg 
and wing ; when the knife is passed be- 
tween the limbs and the body, and press- 
ed outward, the joint will be easily per- 
ceived. Then turn the turkey on the 
other side, and cut off the leg and wing. 
Separate the drumsticks from the leg 
bones, and the pinions from the wings ; 
it is hardly possible to mistake the joint. 
Cut the stuffing in thin slices, length- 
wise. Take off the neck-bones, which 
are two triangular bones on each side of 
the breast ; this is done by passing the 
knife from the back under the blade part 
of each neck-bone, until it reaches the 
end: by raising the knife the other 
branch will easily crack off. Separate 
the carcass from the back by passing the 
knife lengthwise from the neck down- 
ward. Turn the back upwards and lay 
the edge of the knife across the back- 
bone about midway between ' the legs 
and wings ; at the same moment, place 
the fork within the lower part of the 
turkey, and lift it up ; this will make the 
back-bone crack at the knife. The croup, 
or lower part of the back, being cut off, 
put it on the plate with the rump from 
j'ou, and split off the side-bones by forc- 
ing the knife through from the rump to 
the other end. 

The choicest parts of a turkey are the 
side-bones, the breast and the thigh-bones. 
The breast and wings are called light 
meat; the thigh-bones and side-bones 
dark meat. When a person declines ex- 
pressing a preference, it is polite to help 
to both kinds. 




Boiled Turkey. 



Boiled TurTcey is carved in the same 
way as the roast, the only difference 
being in the trussing; the legs in the 
boiled being, as here shown, drawn into 
the body, and in the roast skewered. 

Roast Fowl. — Slip the knife between 
the leg and body, and cut to the bone ; 
then with the fork turn the leg back, and 
the joint will give way if the bird is not 
old. Take the wing off in the direction 
of a to J, only dividing the joint with 
5'our knife. When the four quarters are 
thus removed, take off the merrj'-thought 
from c. and the neck bones ; these last, 
by putting in the knife at d, and press- 
ing it, will break off from the part that 
sticks to the breast. The next thing is 
to divide the breast from the carcass, by 




Eoast Fowl. 

cutting through the tender ribs close to 
the breast, quite down to the tail. Then 




lay the back upwards, put your knife into 
the bone half way from the neck to the 



OABVING. 



115 



rump, and on raising the lower end it 
will separate readily. Turn the rump 
from you, take off the two sidesmen, and 
the whole will be done. To separate the 
thigh from the drumstick of the leg in- 
sert the knife into the joint as above. It 
requires practice to hit the joint at the 
first trial. The breast and wings are 
considered the best parts. 

If the bird be a capon, or large, and 
roasted, the breast may be cut into slices 
in the same way as a pheasant. 

The difference in the carving of boiled 
and roast fowls consists only in the 
breast of the latter being alwaj's served 

^^^^ _^b 




Eoast Goose. 

whole, and the thigh-bone being generally 
preferred to the w'ing. 

Geese. — Cut thin shces from the breast 
at a to & ; the wing is generally separated 
as in turkeys, but the leg is almost con- 
stantly reserved for broiling. Serve a 
little of the seasoning from the inside by 
cutting a circular slice in the apron at c. 

Pheasant. — Slip the knife between the 




Pheasant. 

leg and the breast : cut off a wing small 
from a to i ; then slice the breast, and 
you will have two or three handsome 
cuts. Cut off the merry-thought by 
passing the knife under it towards the 




neck, and cut all the other parts as in a 
fowl. Tlie breast, wings, and merry- 
thought are the most esteemed: but the 
thigh has a high flavor. 

Partridge. — It may be cut up in the 
same manner as a fowl ; 
but the biid being small, 
it is unusual to divide it 
into more than three 
portions — the leg and 
w ing being left togeth- 
Partridge. er, and tiie breast help- 
ed entire ; the back, being only served 
along with some of the other parts. If 
the birds are very young, and the party 
not over large, the whole bodj^ is not un- 
frequently only separated into two 
pieces, by one cut of the knife from head 
to tail. 

Quails. — Generally helped whole. 
Grouse, Snipe, and Woodcocl. — Pro- 
ceed as for partridge, except that the trail 
or entrails of the two latter is served up 
on toast. As regards these different 
soits of game, the thigh of the pheasant 
and the woodcock is the best, and the 
breast and wing of the partridge and 
grouse ; but the most epicurean morsel 
of all is the trail of the woodcock serv- 
ed up on toast. Smaller birds should 
always be helped as they are roasted, 
whole. 

Wild-Duclc, Widgeon, and most sorts 
of water-fowl. — Make , two or three in- 
cisions, as long slices, into the breast, on 
which a glass of hot port-wine is poured ; 
have ready a lemon cut in half on one 
side covered with salt, and on the other 





Pigeon, back. Pigeon, breast. 

with cayenne pepper. Put both together, 
then squeeze the juice over the breast ; 



116 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



after which the slices and limbs may be 
served round. 

Pigeons. — Cut them in half, through 
both back and breast ; the lower part is 
generally thought the best. 

Fish requires very little carving; it 
should be carefully helped with a fish- 
slice, which, not being sharp, prevents 
the flakes from being broken, and in sal- 
mon and cod these are large and add 
much to their beauty. 



NAMES OF THE VARIOUS JOINTS IN 
ANIMALS. 



-Beef. 




.<^. 



Hhid Qviarter. 

1. Sirloin. 

2. Rump. 

?.. Aitcb-Bone. 

4. Buttock. 

5. Mouse-Buttock, 
fi. Veiny Piece. 

7. Thick Flank. 

8. Thin Flank. 

9. Leg. 

10. Fore-ribs ; 5 ribs. 



Fore Quarter. 

11. Middle-rib ; 4 ribs. 

12. Chuck ; 3 ribs. 

13. Shoulder, or Leg of 

Mutton Piece. 

14. Brisket. 

15. Clod. 

16. Neck or Sticking 

Piece. 

17. Shin. 

18. Cheek. 



2. — Mutton or Lamb. 




1. Leg. 

2. Loin, best end. 

3. Loin, ohutnp end. 

4. Neck, best end. 

5. Neck, scrag end. 



6. Shoulder. 

7. Breast. 

8. Head. 

A Chine is two Necks. 
A Saddle is two Loins. 



Z.—PotIc. 




1. The Spare-rib 

2. The Hand. 

3. The Belly or Spring. 

4. Fore-loin. 



4.— Veal. 




1. Loin, best end. 

2. Loin, chump end. 

3. Fillet. 

4. Hind-knuckle. 

5. Fore-knuckle. 

6. Neck, best end. 



7. Neck, scrag end. 

8. Blade-bone. 

9. Breast, best end. 

10. Breast, Brisket end. 

11. Head. 



5. — Venison. 




8. Shonlder. 
4. Breast. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 



CTTLINAET UTENSILS.' 



The various utensils used for the pre 
paration and keeping of food are made 

* For the cnts in this chapter, and for the engrav- 
ings of house-keeping utensils throughout tho book 



CULINARY UTENSILS. 



117 



either of metal, glass, pottery ware, or 
wood ; each of which is better suited to 
some particular purposes than the others. 
Metallic utensils are quite unfit for many 
uses, and the knowledge of this is neces- 
sary to the preservation of health in 
general, and sometimes to the prevention 
of immediate dangerous consequences. 




"Waffle Iron to revolve over hole In Kange or 8tove_ 

The metals commonly used in the 
construction of these vessels are silver, 
copper, brass, tin, iron, and lead. Silver 
is preferable to all others, because it can- 
not be dissolved by any of the substan- 
ces used as food. Brimstone unites with 
silver, and forms a thin brittle crust over 
it that gives it the appearance of being 
tarnished. The discoloring of silver 
spoons used with eggs arises from the 
brimstone contained in eggs. Nitre or 
saltpetre has also a slight effect upon 




Egg Frier or Fancy Cake Baker, 
silver, but nitre and silver seldom remain 

the Publisher is indebted to the courtesy of sev- 
eral dealers in New York, whose kiod approval 
of the work has greatly encouraged its issue. 

8 



long enough together in domestic uses to 
require &nj particular caution. 

Copper and brass are both liable to be 
dissolved by vinegar, acid fruits, and 
pearlash. Such solutions are highly poi- 
sonous, and great caution should be used 
to prevent accidents of the kind. Ves- 
sels made of these metals are generally 
tinned, that is, lined with a thin coating 
of a mixed metal, containing both tin 
and lead. Neither acids, nou^ny thing 
containing pearlash, should ever be suf- 
fered to remain above an hour in vessels 
of this kind, as the tinning is dissolvable 
by acids, and the coating is seldom per- 
fect over the surface of the copper or 
brass. 




Mufian Baker. 

The utensils made 0/ what is called 
block tin are constructed of iron plates 
coated with tin. This is as liable to be 
dissolved as the tinning of copper or brass 
vessels, but iron is not an unwholesome 
substance, if even a portion of it should 
be dissolved and mixed in the food. Iron 
is therefore one of the safest metals for 
the construction of culinary utensils ; 
and the objection to its more extensive 
use only rests upon its liability to rust, 
so that it requires more cleaning and 
soon decays. Some articles of food, such 
as quinces, orange-peel, artichokes, &c., 
are blackened by remaining in iron ves- 
sels, which therefore must not be used 
for them. 

Leaden vessels are very unwholesome, 
and should never be used for milk and 
cream if it be ever likely to stand till it 
become sour. They are unsafe also for 
the purpose of keeping salted meats. 

The best kind of pottery ware is ori- 
ental china, because the glazing is a per- 



118 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



feet glass, which cannot be dissolved, and 
the whole substance is so compact that 
liquid cannot penetrate it. Many of the 
Englisli pottery wares are badly glazed, 
and as the glazing is made principally 
of lead, it is necessary to avoid putting 
vinegar and other acids into them. Acids 
and greasy substances penetrate into un- 
glazed wares excepting the strong stone 
ware ; or into those of which the glaz- 
ing is crjjgked, and hence give a bad fla- 
vor to any thing they are used for after- 
wards. They are quite unfit, therefore, 
for keeping pickles or salted meats. 
Glass vessels are infinitely preferable to 
any pottery ware but oriental china, and 
should be used whenever the occasion 
admits of it. 

Wooden vessels are very proper for 
keeping many articles of food, and should 
always be preferred to those lined with 
lead. If any substance has fermented 
or become putrid in a wooden cask or 
tub, it is sure to taint the vessel so as to 
produce a similar effect upon any thing 
that may be put into it in future. It is 
useful to char the m sides of these wood- 
en vessels before they are used, by burn- 
ing wooden shavings, so as to coat the 
insides with a crust of charcoal. 

As whatever contaminates food in any 
way must be sure, from the repetition of 
its baneful effects, to injure the health, a 
due precaution with respect to all culi- 
nary vessels is necessary for its more 
certain preservation. There is a kind 
of hollow iron ware lined with enamel, 
which is superior to every other utensil 
for sauces or preserves ; indeed it is pre- 
ferable for every purpose. 

A kitchen should always be well fur- 
nished ; there is no necessity that it should 
be profusely so, but there should be a sutfi- 
ciency of every thing which can aid in 
producing the dishes preparing, with the 
success which is so essential to the grati- 
fication of the palate. A good workman 
cannot work well with bad tools, neither 



can good cooks do justice to their profi- 
ciency, if they possess not the necessarj 
utensils suitable to the various modes of 
cooking. And when this important 
point has been realized, cleanliness in 
every article used shovid be scrupulously 
observed ; no utensil should be suffered 
to be put away diity ; it not only injures 
the article itself materially, to say nothing 
of the impropriety of the habit, but pre- 
vents its readiness for use on any sudden 
occasion. No good cook or servant 
would be guilty of such an act ; those 
who are. do so either from laziness or 
want of system, or a nature naturally 
dirty; if a very strong hint will not 
suffice, it is of little use speaking out. 
A servant who is inherently dirty or 
slovenly, should never be retained ; it is 
better and easier to change frequently 
until the mistress is suited, however un- 
pleasant frequent changes may prove, 
than Quixotically attempt to cure a per- 
son of this description. Cleanliness is 
the most essential ingredient in the art 
of cooking, and at anj'- personal sacrifice 
should be maintained in the kitchen. 

The fixtures or fittings of a kitchen de- 
pend upon the builder, and in modern 
houses sufficient attention is paid to the 
situations of the range, dresser, larder, 
&c., to embody convenience. 




In furnishing a kitchen, there shou'd 
be every thing likely to be required, but 
not one article more than is wanted. 
Unnecessary profusion creates a litter; 



CIJLINAEY UTENSILS. 



110 



and a deficiency too often sacrifices the 
perfection of a dish. The following arti- 
cles, of which we give engravings, are 
requisite. 




The Nursery Milk Wanner. 

This is a very useful apparatus, on the 
principle of the Bain Marie, or "Water 
Bath. 

It consists of a block-tin saucepan to 
hold water, and a smaller one, with cover 
of the same material to fit within, but 
not to reach to the bottom of the exter- 
nal saucepan. This effectually prevents 
the common accident of burning what is 
intended to be boiled ; for the reason 
that the heat cannot be increased beyond 
boiling or 212" ; a represents the inner, 
and l the external saucepan ; the cover 
seen at the top will fit both saucepans. 

A Double Floored Griddle, the best 




Double Floored Griddle. 

iron Griddle in use. Very thick; therefore 



it gets hot or cold gradually, retains the 
heat longer, cooks better, and smokes less 
than ordinary griddles. 




Bee&teak MauL 

A Beefsteak Poimder for making beef- 
steak tender. 




Beefsteak Pounder. 
Wooden Moulds for moulding butter. 




Batter Moulds. 



For working butter into form, similar 
to Butter Hands, the 




Butter Board and Knife. 



120 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 




,^,^^^^^'>'-'^' 



Biscuit Mould or Block. 

The pastry is rolled into this and forms 
half the biscuit ; othersiare made and fas- 
tened together, either before or after 
being baked. 





Tea Bread Knife. 

For cutting bread; it can be regula- 
ted by screws at the ends to cut any thick- 
ness. 



Apple Eoaster. 

Tin Apple Roasters are often made with 
a shelf, making two divisions, roasting 
double the quantity. 




Potato Mashei 




Butter Pats. 



A mould and stamp for butter by 
which you can have the full size of the 
stamp, and the butter any thickness. 



Knife "Washer. 



To wash Ivory, Pearl, or other han- 
dled knives thoroughly, without allowing 
the greasy water to come in contact with 
and thereby soil or stain the hardies. 



CULINAEY UTENSILS. 



121 




Cheese Toaater. 




Freeeryo Pan Enamelled, 




— '■ K »»l»'U~ 



Etna. 



It will boil a pint of water in three 
minutes. 



:*l IM 




Biscuit, Cake and Tartlet Cutters. 




Cake and Vegetable Catters. 




Sponge Cake Pans. 




Queen Cake, or Pound Cake Pans. 




Jelly and Vegetable Moulds. 




Oblong and Bound Jelly Moulds. 




Jelly and Cake Moulds with Cylinder. 



Sardine Opener. 



122 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 




Smoked Beef and Cabbage Cutter, 



Champaigne Opener. 




Enamelled Porringer. 




Enamelled Sancepan. 




Bain Marie. 




Enamelled Preserving Kettle. 




Oyster Broiler, or Toast Gridiron. 




Corkscrews. 



CULINAKT UTENSILS. 



123 




Cucumber and Vegetable Slicer. 

Saucepan Digester. — The great impor- 
tance of the digester, not only to poor 
families, but to the public in general, in 
producing a larger quantit}^ of wholesome 
and nourishing food, by a much cheaper 
method than has ever been hitherto ob- 
tained, is a matter of such serious and 
interesting consideration, that it cannot 
be too earnestly recommended to those 
who make economy in the support of 
their families an object of their attention. 
The chief, and indeed the only thing 
necessary to be done, is to direct a proper 
mode of using it to advantage ; and this 
mode is both simple and easy. Care 
must be taken in filling the digester, to 
leave room enough for the steam to pass 
off" through the valve at the top of the 
cover. This may be done by filling the 
digester only three parts full of water 
and bruised bones or meat, which it is 
to be noticed are all to be put in to- 
gether. It must then be placed near a 
slow fire, so as only to "simmer, and this 
it must do for the space of eight or ten 
houis. After this has been done, the 
soup is to be strained through a hair 
sieve or cullender, in order to separate 
any bits of bones. The soup is then to 
be put into the digester again, and after 
whatever vegetables, spices, &c., are 
thought necessary are added, the whole 
is to be well boiled together for an hour 
or two, and it will then be fit for imme- 
diate use. 

Any thing that is to be warmed and 
sent to table a second time should be put 
into a basin or jar, placed in hot water, 
which is not permitted to come to the 
boiling point. If allowed to boil, the 
meat will harden, or the sauce will be 



reduced and become thick : by avoiding 
these chances the flavor will be preserved, 
and the viands may be warmed up more 
than once without injury. The steam- 
apparatus now employed in most kitchens 
is admirably adapted to this purpose, 
since the heat can be regulated to the 
required temperature. 

A spacious movable screen, large 
enough to completely cover the fire, lined 
throughout with tin, and having shelves 
for the warming of plates and dishes, 
should also be an appendage ; and there 
should be an abundance of kitchen uten- 
sils of the best kind, kept in their pro- 
per places and strictly clean. Cleanli- 
ness is, indeed, of the first importance, 
and no kitchen-maid should ever put 
away a metal saucepan which has been 
used for any other purpose than merely 
boiling pure water, without scalding it 
thoroughly and then drying it. 

Every kitchen should be provided with 
a clock to keep .the cook to her time ; 
also with a large and a small marble mor- 
tar for the pounding of meat, with chop- 
per, meat-saw, various-sized scoops for 
vegetables, when required for haricos 
&c., paste-cutters, steak-tongs, &c., and 
those insignificant, though useful little 
articles, minute-glasses, to regulate the 
boiling of an egg; nor should a spice- 
box, containmg whole pepper, mace, nut- 
megs, and cinnamon, be forgotten ; to- 
gether with various dried sweet herbs. 
Scales, with weights from J oz. to 2 lbs., 
should be placed on the dresser, and the 
weights carefully kept in regular order. 
A set of tin measures with small spmits 
or lips, and with the contents distinctly 
marked upon them, from a gallon down 
to half a gill, will also be found very con- 
venient. It is likewise well to have a 
set of wooden measures, from a bushel 
to a quarter of a peck. 

Let it be remembered, that, of liquid 
measure — 



124 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEErER. 



Two gills are half a pint. 
Two pints are one quart. 
Four quarts are one gallon. 

Of dry measure — 

Half a gallon is a quarter of a peck. 
One gallon is half a peck. 
Two gallons are one peck. 
Four gallons are half a bushel. 
Eight gallons are one' bushel. 

About twenty-flve drops of any thin liquid will fill 
a common-sized teaspoon. 

A common tumbler holds half a pint. 

Four tablespoonfuls, or half a gill, will fill a com- 
mon wine-glass. 

Four wine-glasses will fill a half-pint or common 
tumbler, or a large cott'ee-cup. 

A quart black bottle holds in reality about a pint 
and a half. 

Of flour, butter, sugar, and most articles used in 
cakes and pastry, a quart is generally about equal 
in quantity to a pound avoirdupois (sixteen 
ounces). Avoirdupois is the weight designated 
throughout this book. 

Ten eggs generally weigh one pound before they 
are broken. 

A tablespoonful of salt or brown sugar is generally 
about one ounce.* 

Sieves, of various descriptions, are 
very essential. Every utensil for cook- 
ery should be of various sizes, so as to 
suit the quantity of which the dishes 
ma}^ be composed ; and each should be 
kept in a fixed place, as well as washed 
and dried immediately after using. The 
cook should also be charged to take care 
of jelly-bags, tapes for the collared 

* Mrs. Hale gives the following table, by which 
persons not having scales and weights at hand may 
readily measure the articles wanted to form any re- 
ceipt, without the trouble of weighing. Allowance 
to be made for an extraordinary dryness or moisture 
of the article weighed or measured. 



•WEIGHT AND MEASUKE. 



things, &c., which, if not perfectly scald- 
ed and kept dry, give an unpleasant fla- 
vor when next used. 



Wheat flour . . . . 
Indian meal .... 
Butter, when soft . . 
Loaf sugar broken . . 
White sugar, powdered 
Best brown sugar . . 

Eggs 

Flour ...... 

Flour ...... 



1 pound is . . 1 quart. 
1 pound, 2 oz., is 1 quart. 
1 pound is . . 1 quart. 
1 pound is . . .1 quart. 
1 pound. 1 oz.,/is 1 quart. 
1 pound, 2 oz.. is 1 quart. 
10 egss are . . 1 pound 
8 quarts arc . . 1 peck. 
4 pecks are . . 1 bushel. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

LiEBiG, in his work on '• The Chemistry 
of Food," says : " Among all the arts 
known to man, there is none that enjoys 
a juster appreciation, and the products 
of which are more universally admired, 
than that concerned in the preparation 
of our food. Led by an instinct which 
has almost reached the dignity of con- 
scious knowledge, and by the sense of 
taste which protects the health, the ex- 
perienced cook, with respect to the 
choice, admixture, and preparation of 
food, has made acquisitions surpassing all 
that chemical and physiological science 
has done in regard to the doctrine or 
theory of nutrition." 

" I do not yet despair," says another 
writer. " of seeing the day when the 
culinaiy science, like others, will have 
its qualified professor-:." "The art of 
cookery," anotlKT observes, " is the 
analeptic part of the art of physic." Dr. 
Mandeviile says, •' Ph^^sicians should be 
good cooks, at least in theory." 

Dr. Arbuthnot says — " The choice 
and measure of the materials of which 
our body is composed — of what we take 
daily by pounds, is, at least, of as much 
importance as what we take seldom and 
only by grains and spoonfuls. Count 
Rumford remarks : '" In what art or 
science could improvements be made 
that would more powerfully contribute 
to increase the comforts and enjoj^ments 
of mankind ?" 

A quaint writer says truly : " The 
stomach is every man's master ; " and 
Armstrong attributes to the good cook 
the useful knowledge : 



COOKEKY. 



125 



'How best the fickle fabric to support 
Of mortal man ; in healthful body, how 
A healthful mind the longest to maintain." 



To prevent diseases is surely better 
than to cure them. The French enjoy a 
happy equilibrium of spirits more con- 
stantly than any other nation ; Dr. 
Kitchiner says, it is because " their elas- 
tic stomachs, unimpaired by spirituous 
liquors, digest vigorously the food they 
render easily assimilable by cooking it 
suflBciently; doing half the work of 
digestion by fire and water, till 

" The tender morsels on the palate melt, 
And all the force of cookery is felt." 

The cardinal virtues of cookerj' are 
cleanliness, frugality, nourishment, and 
palatableness. 

The term " gourmand " or " epicure," 
says a distinguished writer on the sub- 
ject, is not synonymous with " glutton," 
who eats as long as he can sit, like the 
great eater of Kent, whom Fuller places 
among his worthies ; telling us •' he ate 
thirty dozen pigeons at one mesfl ; at an- 
other, four scoi-e rabbits, and eighteen 
yards of black pudding, London meas- 
ure :" nor does the term epicure suit a 
fastidious appetite only excited by dain- 
ties, such as the brains of peacocks or 
parrots, the tongues of thrushes or 
nightingales, &c. It means one who 
has good sense and good taste enough to 
relish food cooked according to scientific 
principles ; so prepared that the palate 
be not ofiended, and that it be rendered 
easy of digestion. Thus the temperate 
man is the greatest epicure ; for the per- 
fection of enjoyment depends on the per- 
fection of the faculties of mind and body. 

The philosopher, Descartes, when a 
cavilling Marquis said: "What, do you 
philosophers eat dainties V replied, '• Do 
you think Providence made good things 
only for fools !" Boswell sa3's, Dr. John- 
son had nice discernment in the science 
of cookery, and talked of good eating 
with uncommon satisfaction. 



Boileau says, the Norman conqueror 
William, bestowed portions of land on 
his favorite chief cook. The Doomsday 
Book records a grant to Robert Argyl- 
lon, for the service of '' making in an 
earthen pot, in the kitchen of our lord 
the king, a mess called ' De la groute,' " 
— a kind of plum-porridge — on the day 
of the coronation. This dish was served 
to king George IV., at his coronation. 

The luxury of different ages has fur- 
nished many curiosities in cookery. 
Among the ancients, a porpus and wild 
boar were highly esteemed, and the swan 
was a <lis .'f state; the crane was a 
dainty in > ii.ira the Conqueror's time ; 
and seals, curlews, herons, bitterns, and 
the peacock — this last, " the food of lovers 
and the meat of lords " — were fashionable 
at baronial entertainments. The peacock 
was stuffed with spices and sweet herbs, 
roasted and served whole ; after it was 
dressed, being covered with the skin and 
feathers, the tail spread, and the beak 
and comb gilt. Some were covered with 
leaf-gold. These birds adorned English 
tables till the beginning of the seven- 
teenth century. 

The pie, full of living birds, was a fa- 
vorite dish, and a common joke at old 
English feasts. The dwarf, Jeffrey Hud- 
son, was served up in a cold pie about 
1630. before King Charle.=, at the Duke 
of Buckingham's table. The baron of 
beef was a favorite of old English hos- 
pitality. Don Anthony, of Guevara, 
chronicler to Charles V., says, he saw at 
a feast, "a horse roasted, a cat in jelly, 
lyzard in hot broth, and frogges fried, &c." 

The Roman sauces described by Coelus 
Apicius, a celebrated Roman epicure, 
who wrote a curious cookery book in 
Latin, and invented a soup made of the 
livers of a peculiar fish which sometimes 
sold at the rate of sixty dollars the 
pound — would be hardly more palatable 
to us than the black broth of the Spar- 
tans which caused the citizens of Sybaris 



126 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



to wonder no longer why the Spartans 
were so fearless of death. Yet one of 
the receipts of Apicius required the death 
of three or four dozen animals. The Es- 
quimaux eat raw fish, and melted fat is 
a delicacy among Arctic natives. Many 
of the northern Indians eat the intes- 
tines and blood. Tartars feed on dogs, 
and some of the natives of Australia, 
New Holland, and other countries, were 
wont to regale themselves upon ants and 
worms, while mice were an African deli- 
cacy. Norwegians mixed the powdered 
bark of trees with meal to bake in cakes. 

La Chapelle's Nouveau Cuisinier, pub- 
lished in 1748, mentions the cooking of 
a turkey in the shape of a football or a 
hedgehog ; a shoulder of mutton in that 
of a beehive ; an entree of pigeons in the 
form of a spider or a frog. Such whim- 
sical harlequinade has now become old- 
fashioned, though the taste for decora- 
■ tion remains. 

By a strange misconception, cookery 
has in all ages been intrusted to ignorant 
persons, who practise it without refer- 
ence to those general principles which 
connect it with chemistry as much as 
other arts are allied to that science. Yet 
in the days of the patriarchs, the prov- 
ince of the cook, it seems, was not a ser- 
vile one. A princess would not disdain to 
dress the lamb her lord had killed and 
brought from the flock. In Homer's 
time kings and princes killed their own 
cattle and cooked the flesh. 

Perhaps the march of improvement 
may induce professors of gastronomy to 
elevate their calling by connecting its 
practice with the principles of science. 
The brewers and distillers of the present 
da}^ are philosophical chemists, under- 
standing the principles on which they 
act, and their processes are more certain, 
economical, and manageable than for- 
merly ; why may not cooks be philoso- 
phers? Why may not equal advantages 
be derived from the application of sci- 



ence to those arts which relate to the 
management of solid sustenance ? 

It has been said that the best books 
on cookery have been written by medi- 
cal men. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

A GLOSSAEY OF FOREIGN TERMS USED 
IN COOKERY. 

French cookery is of so diverse a na- 
ture that many volumes have already 
been written upon the subject ; and new 
modes of dressing the same things are so 
constantly being invented, that we must 
content ourselves with merely giving a 
few explanations of the terms adopted by 
most of our professed cooks. 

Atelets. Small silver skewers. 

Baba. A French sweet yeast cake. 

Bain Marie. A flat vessel containing 
boiling water, intended to hold also other 
saucepans for the purpose either of cook- 
ing or keeping their contents hot. The 
Bain Marie is called in the English kitch- 
en Beaii Mere Pan. This term is old, 
having its origin with the alchymists, 
who, finding that sea-water boiled at a 
high temperature, and did not evaporate so 
quickly, used a pan containing sea-water ; 
hence the term : Bain Marie ; or, Sea- 
Water Bath. 

Bard. — A slice of thin bai;on fat, used 
for covering the breasts of birds, the 
back of a hare, or any substance that re- 
quires the assistance of fat where larding 
is not preferred. 

Beignet, or Fritter. — Anything that 
is enveloped in a casing of batter or 
egg, and fried. Thus we have fritters of 
fruit, vegetables, cream, &c. 

Blanc. — A white broth used to im- 
prove the color of chickens, lamb, &c. 

Blanch. — To set anything on the fire in 



"n 



FOREIGN TEEMS. 



127 



cold water, and when it boils strain it 
off and plunge it into cold water. 

Blanquettes. — A kind of fricassee. 
made of slices of white meat cut thin, 
and warmed in white sauce thickened 
with the yolk of eg-gs. 

Bouilll. — Beef very much boiled and 
served with sauce. 

Bouillon. — The common soup of 
France. 

Bouquet. — A bunch of parsley and 
scallions tied up to put in soups, &c. 

Bouquet garni, or Assaisonne. The 
same, with the addition of cloves or aro- 
matic herbs. 

Bourguignote. — A ragout of truffles. 

Braise. — This is a method of dress- 
ing meat, poultry. &c., without evapora- 
tion. It is donv by lining a braising pan 
with thin slices of bacon, beef, or veal ; 
upon which place whatever you may in- 
tend to braise; and also add carrots, 
onions, lemons. Lay leaf, herbs, pepper, 
and salt. 

Brioche. — A French yeast cake. 

Biiisson (eii). — A fanciful mode of 
dressing up pastry, &c. 

Callipash. — The glutinous meat of the 
upper shell of a turtle. 

Callifee. — The glutinous meat of the 
under shell of a turtle. 

Caramel. — Sugar boiled down until 
the water is evaporated, and then formed 
in ornamental devices for decorating 
gateaux-baskets, &c. It is also used for 
coloring gravies when reduced almost to 
the burning point, and then dissolved in 
water. Its use is not much to the ci'edit 
of the cook. 

Capilotade. — A hash of poultr3'. 

• Civet. — A hash of game or wild fowl. 
Compeigne. — A French sweet yeast 
cake, with fruit, &c. 

Compotier. — A dish in the dessert ser- 
vice purposely for the compote. 

Couronne (en). — To serve any pre- 
scribed articles on a dish in the form of a 



Court or short, to stew. — The reduction 
of a sauce until it becomes very thick. 

Croutons.- — Bread cut in various shapes 
and fried lightly in butter or oil. 

Casserole. — A rice-crust moulded in 
the form of a pie; when baked, tilled 
with a mince or puree of game, or with 
a hlanquette of white meat. Also a 
stewpan. 

Compote. — Stewed fruits served with 
syrup. There are also compotes of 
pigeons and other small birds. 

Consomme is a strong clear grav}^, 
drawn from the long stewing of any 
kind of meat, to be either used as broth, 
or made into soups and sauces. 

Coulis, or cullis, is a rich brown gravy 
commonly used for the purpose of color- 
ing as well as thickening and flavoring 
many sorts of soups and sauces. It is 
made in various ways, chiefly upon a 
foundation of ham and veal, slices of 
which are put into a closely covered 
stewpan, with only a small quantit)^ of 
water, and boiled over a brisk fire until 
the whole becomes brown and thick. See 
Savj:es. 

Croquettes. — A mince of either fi.><h, 
meat, or poultry, made very savory, witli 
a small quantity of sauce, formed into 
shapes of any kind, rolled in egg and 
bread-crumbs, and fried crisp. 

Croiistades, or Dresden patties, made 
of paste or bread baked in small moulds, 
and filled with mince of any kind. 

Borez. — To wash pastry, &c., with 
yolk of egg well beaten. 

Dorure. — Yolks of eggs well beaten. 

" ^rt papillote." — White paper is 
greased with oil or butter, and then 
folded over a cutlet or small fish, fasten- 
ing it by screwing the paper at the 
edges. 

Entremets. — Small ornamental dishes 
served in the second and third courses. 

Entree. — A corner dish for the first 
course. In large dinners the side dishes 
are called ^a/ics. 



128 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



Finav^iere. — An expensive, highly 
flavored, mixed ragout. 

Flan. — A French custard. 

Farce. — Forcemeat. 

Faggot. — A small bunch of parsley 
and thyme and a bay-leaf tied up. 

Fricandeaux — may be made of any 
boned piece of veal, in pieces of not more 
than two or three lbs. weight, chiefly cut 
from that portion of the fillet which 
we have described as the thick part. 
It is a fi-equent dish as an entree at 
good tables, and requires great care to 
serve in perfection. 

G'.tean. — A cake or pudding. 

Glaze (to). — To reduce sauces to a 
jelly, that they will adhere to the meat. 

Glace or Glaze. — Stock boiled down 
to a consistency, and used to improve 
the appearance of all braised dishes ; it 
should be warmed in the bain-marie, and 
applied with a brush. 

Glaze, Glace Ice, is composed of white 
of egg beaten with powdered sugar. 

Godireav. — A common veal forcemeat. 

6Vas (ail), — means that the article 
is dressed with meat gravy. 

Gratin. — A layer of any article in- 
tended for this purpose is spread over a 
dish that will bear the fire and is placed 
on a stove or hot ashes until it burns. 

Ilors d'ceuvre. — A small dish served 
during the first course. 

Lard (to). — To stick bacon, or what- 
ever meat may be named, into poultry, 
meat, &c. It is accomplished with a lard- 
ing pin, one end of which is square and 
one hollow. The lardon is put into this 
hollow, the point is then inserted in the 
meat, and on being drawn through leaves 
the bacon or lardon standing in its pro- 
per place. It requires practice to do 
this well. 

Lardon. — The pieces into which bacon 
or other meats are cut for the purpose 
of larding. 

Liaison. — A finish with yolks of eggs 
and cream for ragodts and sauces. 



Madeleines. — Cakes made of the samt 
composition as pound cakes. 

Maigre (ati). — Soups, &c., dressed 
without meat. 

Mask. — To cover completely. 

Marinade. — A liquor prepared foi 
boiling or stewing fish or meat in : it id 
sometimes used cold. 

Meringue. — A very light preparation, 
made of sugar and whites of eggs beaten 
to snow. 

Matelote. — A rich stew of fish with 
wine. 

Miroton consists of small slices of meat 
cut thin, and not larger than a crown- 
piece, and made into various sorts of 
ragouts ; and dished up in a circular form. 

Nouilles. — An Italian paste resembling 
macai'oni, but flat instead of being in pipes. 

Panada. — Bread soaked in milk, used 
principally for quenelles and fine farces. 

Passer. — To fry lightly. 

Pd te. — A raised crust pie. 

Poelee. — A light braise for white meats; 
the difference between this and the braise 
is that in the former, the meat, or what- 
ever it may be, need not be so much done 
as the latter. 

Potage. — A term for soup. 

The Potati-fcu is truly the foundation 
of all good cooker^'-, and of that we shall 
treat rather largely in our chapters on 
soups and sauces. 

Puree. — A culinary operation which 
should be carefully attended to, and 
which, although known for preparing 
potted meats and fish, is seldom employ- 
ed by common cooks in any thing but 
pea-soup. It consists in either pounding 
the meat or fish in a mortar until it be- 
comes a paste, or in stewing roots or 
pulse in boiling water until they are 
softened into a thick pulp, when they 
are passed, first through a colander, or 
through a puree presser, and afterwards 
through a wire or hair sieve, and 
being thinned with broth, may be form- 
ed into soups of various sorts. 



FOKEIGN TEKMS. CONDIMENTS. 



129 



Quenelles and Godheavx are different 
sorts of forcemeat, composed of meat or 
fish, with bread and yolk of egg, and fat 
of some kind ; seasoned in various ways, 
and either spread upon rolled meat, or 
formed into balls and fried as garnish to 
entrees^ or served separately as entrees. 

To malce Qfienclles. — When the force- 
meat is made, take two tablespoons, fill 
one with the meat, dip a knife in hot water, 
with which smooth it over ; then dip the 
other spoon into boiling water, and with 
it remove the meat from the first spoon, 
and slip it into a buttered stewpan ; so 
on until you have the number you want : 
then cover them with stock, and boil 
them about ten minutes, or until firm, 
and they are fit for use. For small 
quenelles use teaspoons. 

Rissole. — A mince of meat or fish, en- 
closed in paste, or made up into shapes 
or balls in the manner of minced coUops, 
and used either as side-dishes, or as a 
garnish for stews or hashes, now more 
elegantly termed //'/cffss^es and ragouts. 

Roux. — A thickening for white soups 
or gravy, made of flour and butter. 

Salmis. — A hash made of game, which 
is cut up when only half roasted ; where- 
as a hash is made from dressed game. 

Sauter. — To fry very lightly. 

Saiotiere or Saitheti re. — A pewter or 
tin vessel in which are placed the moulds 
containing whatever is intended to be 
frozen. 

Tourner or turn. — To stir a sauce ; 
also to pare and cut roots, vegetables, 
and fruits very neatly. 

Tamis, or "tammy," a strainer of thin 
woollen canvas, or silk, used for straining 
soups and sauces. 

Tourte. — A kind of tart baked in a 
shallow tin. 

Vanner. — To take up sauce or any 
other liquid in a spoon and turn it over 
very quickly. 

Veloute. — For heightening the flavors 
of soups, made dishes, &c. 



Vol-au-rent. — An extremely light puff 
paste, in which are enclosed minces of 
sweetbread, poultry, game, &c. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 



CONDIMENTS. 



There is one class of materials in con- 
stant use in the kitchen: — the condi- 
ments ; without the.se, soups, sauces, and 
all made dishes, would be insipid ; and 
the judicious application of them is es- 
sential. 

If all kinds of condiments were of the 
same quality — that is, if all salt, pepper, 
and mustard, &c., were alike, receipts 
might be given as in a Pharmacopoeia, 
with distinct measures for each ; but as 
nothing difters so much as these simple 
condiments, everything must be left to 
the palate of the cook, and on him or 
her alone depends the flavor of the ali- 
mentary substances partaken of 

Of all condiments, that in most gene- 
ral use is SALT ; the health of every indi- 
vidual depends upon it, and it is as much 
required as food or drink. Even on 
those continents far away from the 
shores washed by the briny ocean, we 
find it in springs, and in crystal globules 
encrusting the earth. 

It is chemically known as chloride of 
sodium, being a combination of chlorine 
and sodium. Its use as an antiseptic, 
and as a condiment, is too well known to 
be repeated here. 

Rock Salt is the unpurified salt, as dug 
from the mines. This is purified by boil- 
ing, &c., and crystallized by heat. 

Bay Salt is the coarse large crystal 
salt, taking its name from the salt that 
formerly was made in pits by the over- 
flow or letting in of the sea at the head 
of Bays, and which was evaporated by 
the heat of the sun. Almost all the fish 



cured in France at the present day is done 
by this kind of salt, the duty upon foreign 
salt being so high. 

Pepper, so extensively used at pres- 
ent in Europe, may be said to be a mod- 
ern invention. Before the introduction 
of pepper, many plants, such as saffVon, 
&c., were used, until this West Indian 
fruit became more general and easy 
to obtaiiy.* The plant is a climbing one 
(piper nigrum^) and exceedingly prett}' 
when in fruit. The berry is gathered 
with the skin or pulp around the stone, 
and that which is intended for black pep- 
per is allowed to remain thus, while for 
white pepper it is blanched and rubbed 
until the skin comes off. In all dark 
sauces use the black pepper. 

Long Pepper, the fruit of the piper 
longttm, is a plant very similar to the for- 
mer, and, if possible, it has a more aro- 
matic flavor than the black pepper. 

I doubt if pepper was known to the 
Romans. If so, it would have been 
known in Egypt, where we find no trace 
of it, although some authors have consid- 
ered it as the ammonium of the an- 
cients. 

Allspice, or, as it was formerly called, 
Pimenta, is another of those productions 
of the climes near the Equator, which 
has come much into use by Europeans. 
It is the fruit of the pimenta Ttdgaris. 
That which is the freshest is the best ; 
as the aromatic oil which it contains is 
not dissipated by keeping. The essential 
oil it contains can be used in very small 
quantities in cookery, but should not be 
subjected to long boiling, or it loses its 
flavor. 

* It is a sinjrular circumstance, that this very 
small fruit should be the cause of England's possess- 
ing one of the largest portions of her dominions. 
In the reign of Elizabeth, and during the war with 
Bpain, pepper, which had then become an article of 
necessity, rose to an extravagant price, and to ob- 
tain it cheaper, the Queen granted Letters Patent 
to certain merchants to trade to the East Indies, 
which was the origin of the present East India 
Company. 



Ginger is the root of a plant, a na- 
tive of the East Indies and Brazils, and 
also naturalized in the West India 
Islands. The plant grows in moist places, 
and is of a recd-like form, bearing a yel- 
low flower. The root, when fresh, should 
be of a light green, solid and heavy. A 
spongy or woolly root should be avoided. 
The virtues of ginger chiefly consist in a 
volatile oil which it possesses. This is 
best obtained by bruising the root, and 
making an infusion in spirits of wine or 
boiling water in a closed bottle ; or, if 
thinly sliced and infused in vinegar, it is 
pleasant in a salad. It is usually em- 
ployed in cookery by having the root 
desiccated by the heat of the sun until 
perfectly dry and hard, and then pow- 
dered till its aromatic oil is lost. It 
should be more frequently used in cook- 
ery, and as a condiment as well as for 
dessert. 

Cloves are the buds of a flower, not 
arrived at maturity, of an East Indian 
tree, called caryophillus aromaticus. 
This, in common with many other buds 
of flowers of various kinds, contains a 
large quantity of essential oil. It has a 
very pungent, aromatic smell. Its na- 
ture is stimulating. It should not be 
boiled too long, or its flavor is lost in 
evaporation. 

Nutmeg is the interior of a fruit be- 
longing to a tree, a native of the Islands 
of the Eastern Archipelago, called Banda, 
and known in botany as the myristica 
moscTiata. It is strongly aromatic, and 
very volatile, and considered agreeable. 
It is used in powder, and not subjected to 
much heat, which would cause it to lose 
its qualities. 

Mace. — This is the skin which covers 
the shell containing the nutmeg. It is 
cut into small pieces and dried. This is 
more frequently used in cookery than 
the nutmeg, as its essential oil and aro- 
matic flavor are not so soon evaporated. 
I Cayenne is the dried pod of a well- 



CONDIMENTS. 



13] 



known plant, the capsicum, now so often 
reared in hot-houses. It is a native of 
the East and West Indies, and South 
America. It is of a very pungent nature, 
and a strongly acrid flavor. The best is 
of an orange color. There aie several 
kinds of capsicums ; the capsicum annuiim 
or annual capsicum ; the capsicum gros- 
8um, or hell pepper; and the capsicum 
cerasi/brme, or cherry pepper. The pods 
of these are frequently pickled. The es- 
sence of ca3'enne, by infusing in alcohol, 
is a very excellent seasoning. 

Cinnamon is the under-bark of a tree, 
the launis cinnamominn, a species of bay, 
with leaves like laurel, found in many 
East India Islands, but chiefly in Ceylon. 
It possesses a very fine aromatic flavor 
and snJell. The essential oil, when ex- 
tracted, is better to use than the bark 
itself. 

This tree bears a fruit similar in shape 
to the acorn, but smaller. It has neither 
smell nor taste ; but, boiled in water, 
yields an oil which, on becoming cold, is 
as hard as tallow : it is used as an oint- 
ment, and also to burn. The outside of 
the root of this tree yields camphor and 
oil of camphor. 

Cassia is also a bark of a similar kind 
of tree to the cinnamon ; the laurus cas- 
sia. It does not contain so much flavor 
as cinnamon ; but the aromatic qualities 
are very similar. Its oil is often sold for 
that of cinnamon. 

Cassia Buds are the pods of the seed 
of the cinnamon tree. Tliey contain an 
oil equal in flavor and pungency to the 
cinnamon. They are not often used in 
cookery, their value not being generally 
known. 

Mustard is the powder of the seed of 
the plant, the sinapis nigra. It grows 
wild in many places, and can be cultivat- 
ed in almost any soil. It is of a strong, 
pungent nature, and is difficult to concen- 
trate. It should be mixed with cold 
water and salt. It derives its name from 



the French moutarde, who derive it from 
the Latin of multum ardet, which be- 
came corrupted into moult arde. In 
France they prepare it in a variety of 
ways. Mustard is a condiment easily 
adulterated ; and particular care should 
be used in its selection. 

Onions, a bulbous root, .so much u.sed 
in cookery, is a native of this country. 
By some it is eaten in the raw state ; and 
if partaken of fi'eely, its effects pervade 
the whole syst-jm, and the person^ who 
uses them may be known at some dis- 
tance, from the peculiar odor which be- 
longs to the root. Its moderate use is 
wholesome. It is also good against 
many diseases of the skin ; but should 
never be eaten too freely by weak stom- 
achs. There are several sorts. The com- 
mon, called the allium cepa; the Gar- 
lic, allium staimim ; the Shai.ot, allitim 
ascalonicum ; the IjE.ts.ts., i\\Q allium p)or- 
rum ; the Rocambole, the allium scordo- 
prasum ; the Chive, the allium chmno- 
prasum. The manner of using them is 
described briefly in the various receipts. 

Onions have been used in cookery from 
a very early period ; and in Spain and 
Portugal form the principal food of the 
lower classes — being, from the nature of 
the climate, much milder than in this 
country. 

'i he next articles among the condi- 
ments are the herbs ; among these, 
Marjoram is that most in use ; it is an 
herb which contains a large quantity of 
what may be called essential oil, which is 
extracted in cooking, and imparts its 
flavor til the viands in which it may be 
used. There are several kinds of mar- 
joram in use, but that known as the pot 
marjoram, origanum onites, when well 
cultivated, is the best for general use ; 
there is the sweet marjoram, origanum 
marjorana ; the winter sweet marjoram, 
origanum heracloticum ; and the com- 
mon marjoram, origanum vulgare. The 
essence of this herb may be used in 



132 



THE PEACTICAl. HOUSEKEEPER 



cookery ; the more common plan is to 
dry it for use, but it should be used fresh 
when it can be procured. 

Savoey. — There are two kinds, the 
winter and summer ; the latter contains 
the most flavor — it can be easily dried 
and bottled for keeping. 

Basil is also an herb in great use ; it 
grows to great perfection if well cultivat- 
ed. Its aromatic smell is very similar 
to cloves : there are two kinds, the sweet 
basil, oeymum basilicum; and the least 
basil, oeymum mi7iimum. The first has 
the best flavor and smell. 

Thyme. — There are two, the lemon, 
thymus citriodorus, and the common 
thyme, thymus vulgaris ; the first is the 
best to use in all dishes wherever this 
herb is required. 

Pennyeoyal is not much in use in 
cookerj'. but can be used where mint can- 
not be had. 

Mint — Spearmint or common mint is 
that most in use ; it should never be 
used in large quantities. Some of it in- 
fused in vinegar, and the vinegar after- 
wards used with a salad, gives a fine flavor 
and a novelty to that dish, and it is used 
in vinegar with lamb. 

Sage is an important herb, and by 
many considered an agreeable condiment ; 
there are several kinds ; that whose 
leaves have a purple tinge is considered 
best for culinary use. 

Parsley, although at present so prom- 
inent in use in our kitchens, was un- 
known to our forefathers; it is only 
within a century that it has become so 
general : it was introduced into England 
from Italy. There are three varieties, 
the common or plain-leaved, the curled 
or double-leaved, and the broad-leaved ; 
the curled is the best-looking, but has 
not so much flavor as the common ; the 
broad-leaved is used for its root, which 
is excellent cut up thinly in soup. &c. It 
may be obtained all the year. To keep 



it well, it should be dried and cut up, 
and placed in well corked bottles, but 
should only be used when fresh cannot 
be procured. 

Taeragon is not so much used as it 
ought to be ; if used more in soup, in- 
stead of the stronger herbs, it would be 
liked ; but great care must be observed, 
as its aromatic qualities are quickly dis- 
sipated by heat. It is a native of the 
noi'th of Europe, and known in botany 
as the artemisia draeunculus. 

Clary is a plant of the sage kind ; its 
leaves are sometimes used to flavor 
soups, and it is liked by a few. 

Fennel may be used often with ad- 
vantage ; it is, however, rarely used but 
with fish. 

Celery, now grown to such perTection, 
is the cultivated wild plant known as 
smallage. Celery is a great deal used in 
cookery, but it should not be subjected 
to too long boiling; if its flavor is re- 
quired, and no root to be obtained, the 
seed of the smallage can be used instead. 
It is generally supposed that the roots 
and leaves of smallage are poisonous; 
we' would not recommend them to be 
used, as the seed can always be obtained, 
and the flavor is finer. The salts of 
celery is a modern improvement, and a 
great addition to our culinaiy condi- 
ments. 

Borage is not much used in cookery ; 
its flavor is slightly bitter, and it is some- 
times used to flavor ale, cider, &c., for a 
summer drink. 

IIoRSE-PiADisH is the root of a plant; 
the aroma which it contains is quickly 
dissipated by heat — it is therefore used 
in a raw state by being grated ; an es- 
sence may be obtained by infusion with 
spirits of wine, which, added to mustard 
after it is made, gives it an agreeable 
flavor. 

Chervil is getting more into use 
every day ; its flavor is exceedingly pleas- 



CONDIMENTS. 



133 



ant, and can be employed in soups and 
salads, especially in made dishes, with 
the greatest advantage. 

Capers are the buds of a small trail- 
ing shrub, a native of the south of Eu- 
rope ; those grown on the Rock of Gib- 
raltar are considered the finest in the 
world. They are very excellent with 
almost all boiled meats, fish, and salads. 

Broom Buds, when pickled, sometimes 
replace capers. 

Nasturtiums are sometimes used in 
the place of capers, being pickled in the 
same way, but they have not the least 
resemblance ; they may be used for 
salads. The flower of the nasturtium is 
a very pretty decoration for boiled fish 
and salads. 

Barberries are the fruit of a plant ; 
some centuries since, they appear to have 
been often used, but morie modern im- 
portations have superseded them ; they 
have a very acid flavor, and, if pickled, 
could enter into the composition of many 
dishes, and also make a good preserve. 

Gherkins are the young cucumber, or 
often the fruit of the uncultivated plant ; 
they are almost always pickled, and are 
an elegant addition to all salads and 
many entrees. 

Beet-Root is a root of a plant which 
of late years has been extensively culti- 
vated for the purpose of feeding cattle ; 
the color which it possesses is easily ex- 
tracted, for the purpose of tinting vari- 
ous articles employed in cookery. When 
boiled, it is a beautiful addition to every 
salad. 

Mushrooms are greatly used in domes- 
tic cookery, and are a general favorite ; 
their liquor, when extracted with salt, 
becomes a condiment known under the 
name of Ketchup^ very extensively em- 
ployed in cookery ; this may be consider- 
ed wholesome, as it is known to facilitate 
the digestion. The largest are the best 
to produce the ketchup, and the small 
button ones to use in dishes ; they should 
9 



be nicely trimmed, and put into a jar 
with lemon-juice to blanch them ; should 
be submitted to very little heat, or their 
delicacy will be lost, and nothing but a 
tough substance left to eat. 

Truffle is, without doubt, a modern 
introduction. So late as the year 1720, 
in the regency of Louis XV., we first 
hear of its being used, when Dubois, the 
minister, introduced it at his dinners, 
the Duke of Orleans gave it to his mis- 
tresses, and the gallants of the day 
brought it into notice in their nocturnal 
repasts. 

It was at this period that the science 
of cookery made such rapid improve- 
ment in France, and when extravagance 
in the preparation of the repasts was 
carried to the highest point ; this was a 
period when "wo?i ex pane solo vivit 
homo.'''' Many of the sauces first discov- 
ered at that period have descended to the 
present day — such as Soubise and Bech- 
amel, named after the noblemen who first 
partook of them. Then it was that the 
celebrated 'Dinde aux Truffes" (turkey 
with trufiies) first made its appearance. 
Since this period, the truffle has been 
considered the '■ to kalon " of condiments, 
and as the indispensable ornament of all 
banquets ; or, as Brillat Savarin says, 
" La trnffe est le diamant de la cuisine.'''' 

Within the last, half century, the place 
(Perigord) which produces the flnest of ' 
these roots, produced the first of diplo- 
matists — namely, Talleyrand, who was at 
the same time a great gourmet. The lo- 
calit}^ may have had its influence ; cer- 
tain it is he would never give a decision 
upon any momentous question until after 
dinner, and having partaken of his favor- 
ite dish, Trufie aux Vin de Champagne. 

They are a species of fungus, tube, or 
root, generally found within a few inches 
of the surface of the earth, and under 
oak trees ; known also as the subterra- 
nean " puff-ball," tula cilarium. The 
best are supposed to come from '• Peri- 



134 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



gord,' the next from Angouleme — these 
are black ; the white come from Pied- 
mont, and the Carolinas ; they ought to 
be eaten fresh. On the European conti- 
nent, they are found by means of dogs 
and pigs, trained on purpose. 

They should not be subjected to too 
long boiling, as the aroma is very vola- 
tile. 

Bat is the leaf of a species of laurel, 
but in using it care must be taken that 
the leaf of the bay-laurel, or cherry- 
laurel, (prunus laurocerasus,) is not used 
for it, as it contains prussic acid. This is a 
common evergreen in the southern States. 
The bay or sweet bay, (lavrvs noMUs,) 
an evergreen of the South of Europe, may 
be used to great advantage in cookery, 
as it imparts an agreeable and aromatic 
flavor, differing very widely from any 
spices that can be used for the same pur- 
poses. It is cultivated extensively in 
gardens, and should be used according to 
the directions given in the receipts. 

Saffron was formerly — that is, in the 
fourteenth century — much used in cook- 
ery in Europe. It has bulbous roots, like 
the onion and flowers ; the fibres grow 
from, the botton of the bulb, having roots 
with coats or skin one over the other, 
and bears naked flowers without stem. 
At present it is only used in the kitchen 
for the purpose of coloring. In Portu- 
gal. Spain, and Turkey, it is used at the 
present day to a great extent. 

Angelica, a condiment much used in 
the confectionery department of the kitch- 
en, is the stalk of a plant like celer}', 
which grows in gardens, and is also found 
wild. When gathered, it is dried, pr3- 
served, and candied. Rouen, in France, 
is very celebrated for it. 

Vanilla is used chiefly to impart fla- 
vor to various articles in confectionery; it 
has also a very agreeable smell, which 
has caused it to be used in scenting dif- 
ferent perfumes, and thus diminished its 
use in the kitchen. It is the produce of 



a climbing plant like ivy, having a large 
leaf and black flower, which leaves a 
pod containing black jDcas ; the form of 
the pod is like a scimitar, from which it 
takes its name, being in Spanish var- 
garila. 

When covered with tin-foil, and kept 
in a moist place, it will become covered 
with flakes of silver. It denotes the 
best quality, and is fit for use ; it will do 
to be infused several times. 

Sugar is the concentrated juice of a 
plant which grows in hot climates, and 
is also to be obtained from other trees 
and vegetables, especially from beet-root. 
It is used very extensively in cookery, 
imparting a mellow flavor to all dishes ; 
it is of an antiseptic nature, and ought to 
be employed more abundantly in preserv- 
ing animal substances than it is. This 
condiment was unknown to the ancients, 
who employed honey in place of it. 

Orange is the fruit of a tree originally 
a native of China, but now grown exten- 
sively in all warm climates. The juice 
of this fruit is a sweet acid, differing 
greatly in flavor from the lemon ; its peel 
is of use in cookery. The Seville and 
Malta oranges are a variety of this 
fruit. 

Orange-flower, a distillation from 
the flower, is used a great deal in cookery. 

Verjuice is the juice of a grape of that 
name, and on the European continent 
was used to a great extent, until the in- 
troduction of the lemon. The grape is 
gathered unripe, pressed, allowed to fer- 
ment, and then put into large vats to 
mature ; the older it is, the better the 
flavor. It enters into the composition 
of several of the sauces in use at the pres- 
ent day ; if pure, it may be preferable 
for several dishes to vinegar. 

Olive is a fruit not much used in 
cookery ; it grows on a low tree with 
long narrow leaves, rough underneath > 
the fruit contains a long and small ker- 
nel ; the fruit, when pressed, yields the 



CONDIMENTS. 



135 



oil known as olive oil. This is a most 
valuable article in cookery ; it ought to 
be tasteless and inodorous, but when long 
ei "^sed to the air becomes rank and un- 
fit for use. 

Arrow-root is the powder of the root 
of a tree growing in very warm and 
moist climates, of about two to three 
feet in height, known in botany as the 
ma/ranta arundinarea. In some coun- 
tries, the flour of this root is mixed with 
that of Indian corn, and makes excellent 
bread. It is produced in the same way 
as the starch from potatoes. 

Tapioca is also a starch, produced 
from the roots of a Brazilian plant called 
Cassava, a very elegant but poisonous 
plant, with beautiful white and pink 
flowers. It is now in general use, as it 
is found, when mixed with a little wine 
or spirits, to be an excellent stimulant to 
an invalid, without possessing any heat- 
ing qualities. It should be well washed 
in water, and boiled until it becomes 
transparent, when it should be well 
stirred, and whatever is required to be 
mixed with it should be added. It will, 
when mixed with other flour, make very 
good bread. 

Salsop is another root of a plant called 
orchis morio^ a native of the East, where 
it is used as an article of food to a great 
extent ; it is reduced to powder, and 
readily dissolves in boiling water. It is 
a light, pleasant drink, and, to persons 
of a feverish constitution, is exceedingly 
wholesome. 

Sago is another of these starches, 
similar to Tapioca, made from the pith 
of the palm-tree, a native of the Indies. 
It is prepared precisely in the same way 
as Tapioca. 

SoY is obtained from the seed or fruit 
of an Indian plant, called dolichos soja, 
or soya; it is made like ketchup; it 
enters greatly into use in the variety of 
sauces that arc made for the table, being 
of a very strong, ^ sweet-bitter taste ; it 



should be used in moderation in cook- 
ery. 

Chetney is a production of the East 
Indies, which, of late years, has come 
considerably into use; it is made by 
mixing together a variety of fruits, and 
allowing them to ferment until they be- 
come acid : some spices are then mixed 
with them — and it is bottled for use ; the 
older it is, the better it becomes. That 
made in the Vale of Cashmere is con- 
sidered the best. 

Curry-powder is another of those 
Indian condiments which have latterly 
come much into use, and it is only to be 
regretted that it is not cheaper, to allow 
it to be more generally used, as it is one 
of those stimulating condiments which 
would be invaluable to the poor ; its use 
would prevent the habit of taking other 
stimulants which produce intoxication. 

Lemon is the fruit of a tree, a native 
of the South of Europe and the Indies ; 
it is a most valuable production, not only 
for cookery, but for the health of the 
human race. Its juice, when diluted 
with water, and sweetened, makes a 
most refreshing and wholesome drink. 
The peel contains an essential oil, which 
imparts a strong pungent flavor to those 
dishes to which it is added. The true 
flavor of this fruit can only be had when 
fresh and ripe. In the time of Henry 
VIIL, this fruit was a great rarity, and 
was partaken of at dessert with a quan- 
tity of sugar mixed with it. 

The Lime is a species of lemon, the 
juice of which is more acid. 

The Citron is also another species ; 
the juice is sweeter. 

Vinegar derives its name from the 
French vin aigre, or sour wine, and is 
known in chemistry as acetic acid. This 
antiseptic liquor can be produced from 
all herbs, plants, vegetables, and fruits, 
which produce sugar, and even that sin- 
gular production of nature known as 
honey, and of which the juices will go 



into fermentaticm. These juices, when 
first expressed, are called wine, or syrup ; 
they undergo a fermentation known as 
the vinous, after which, when exposed to 
a certain degree of heat, they enter into 
the acetous fermentation, and produce 
that acid pungent liquor known as vine- 
gar. Of late years, it has also been pro- 
duced by the distillation of wood, more 
particularly oak, and known as jyyroligne- 
ous acid, which is intensely acid, and 
highly stimulating. When employed in 
cookery, it should be used judiciously, 
and with great care. The best vinegar 
is that which contains the least vegetable 
matter, such as coloring, &c., and which 
'has the strongest acid taste, without 
being hot. 

The different flavored vinegars may be 
made by infusion, without the aid of 
heat, of the different substances from 
which the flavor is required. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 

RUDIMENTS OF COOKEEY. 

A FEW simple general directions, on a 
subject of so much importance to family 
and individual comfort as cooking, will 
be found useful, even though there be 
some repetition in subsequent instruc- 
tions. 

The kitchen should be furnished with 
long and round tables ; a dresser with 
shelves serving as a plate rack ; closets 
or cupboards, common chairs, benches, 
wooden stools and sinks. Towel rollers, 
plate warmers, a weighing machine, speak- 
ing tubes, a dumb waiter, a refrigerator, 
hot water dishes, and dish covers of wire 
gauze, are also among the indispensables. 
The fireplace should have plenty of light. 

The chief object of cookery is to make 
the meat tender and easy of digestion, 
without depriving it of its juices. Solid 
food, especially plain roast or boiled meat. 



requires to be well adapted to the diges- 
tive powers ; for it is trying to many con- 
stitutions, and health is often injured by 
dining upon improperly cooked "plain 
joints." Butcher''s meat, when brought 
from market, should be examined, trim- 
med, and wiped clean ; sprinkled in sum- 
mer with a little salt and pepper, and hung 
up. Mutton and veal must be taken 
down and wiped each day. Venison is 
hung some time before cooking, and 
should be wiped dry and dredged with 
ginger or pepper, to prevent the fiy from 
settling on it ; the dredging wiped off be- 
fore cooking. We will take up the sim- 
ple culinary processes in turn. 

Boiling. — This is seldom done proper- 
ly ; the error most common among Ameri- 
can cooks is that of boiling meat fast over 
a strong fire, which renders it hard and 
nearly tasteless ; whereas, a gentle sim- 
mering for nearly double the time, with 
half the quantity of fuel and water, will 
better accomplish the purpose. 

For instance : the most common, and al- 
most universal dish througliout France, is 
a large piece of plainl}^ boiled fresh beef, 
from which the soup — or '■'■ potage,'''' as it is 
there called — has been partly made, and 
which is separately served up as " iouilli " 
accompanied by strong gravy and minced 
vegetables, or stewed cabbage. Now this, 
as constantly dressed in the French mode, 
is ever delicate both in fibre and flavor ; 
whUe, in the English manner of boiling 
it, it is always hard and insipid. The 
reason of which, as explained by that 
celebrated cook, Careme, who superin- 
tended the kitchen of His Majesty George 
IV.. is this : — " The meat, instead of being 
put down to boil, as in the Euglish meth- 
od, is in France put in the pot with the 
usual quantity of cold water, and placed 
at the corner of the fireplace, where, slow- 
ly becoming hot, the heat gradually 
swells the muscular fibres of the beef^ 
dissolving the gelatinous substances there- 
in contained, and disengaging that portion 



which chemists term 'osmazome,' and 
which imparts savor to the flesh — thus 
both rendering the meat tender and pala- 
table, and the broth relishing and nutri- 
tive ; while, on the contrary, if the pot 
be inconsiderately put upon too quick a 
fire, the boiling is precipitated, the fibre 
coagulates and hardens, the osmazome is 
hindered from disengaging itself, and 
thus nothing is obtained but a piece of 
tough meat, and a broth without taste or 
succulence." 

Meat, salted or fresh, should be put 
first into cold water just sufficient to 
cover it ; to be warmed gradually and re- 
newed, as it wastes away, with hot wa- 
ter. The scum must be skimmed off as 
fast as it rises. As soon as the water 
boils, the kettle should be taken off the 
fire, but placed near enough to keep it 
simmering, which it will do with little 
heat. The allowance of time in the sum- 
mer is eighteen or twenty minutes to 
each pound ; in winter rather more. The 
time of reckoning must begin when the 
water toils. Salt meats require very 
slow simmering, and must have more time. 
Allowance must also be made for age. 

The nice look of every thing boiled de- 
pends on skimming the pot well. If let 
alone, the scum boils down and sticks to 
the meat, giving it a coarse and uncleanly 
appearance. A little cold water and salt 
thrown in will help to bring up the scum. 
It is not necessary to wrap the meat in a 
cloth. Less heat is required to keep 
liquids boUing in copper and iron, than 
in tin saucepans. 

Dried or salted fish and meats require 
soaking in cold water before boiling. 

^leat and poultry will lose their flavor 
and firmness, if left in the water after 
they are done ; as will also fish, which 
wiU break to pieces. 

The water in which fish, meat, or poul- 
try has been boiled, should be saved; 
this pot-liquor, as it is called, may be 
made into soup. 



Remember to heat the water contain- 
ing the meat, very slowly; a joint often 
pounds' weight should not boil in less 
than forty minutes. The more slowly it 
simmers afterwards, the tenderer, plump- 
er, and whiter it will be. 

An experienced cook placed a thermom- 
eter in water in that state wliich cooks 
call gently simmering ; the heat was 212° 
viz., equal to the strongest boiling. Two 
mutton chops were covered with cold 
water; one was boiled on a gallop, the 
other simmering gently for three-quarters 
of an hour ; the flavor of the simmered 
chop was decidedly superior ; the liquor 
was more savory, and when cold had more 
fat on its surface. The chop boiled quick- 
ly was hard and insipid. 

Take care that the covers of your boil- 
ing pots fit closely, and only remove them 
for skimming. If exposed to the smoke 
the meat will have a bad taste. 

The less water the better, so that the 
joint is covered ; a quart of water is gen- 
erally allowed to a pound. As the wa- 
ter is diminished by evaporation, fresh 
boiling water may be poured into the 
saucepan. 

Beef and mutton may be a little under, 
done ; but lamb, pork, and veal, are un- 
eatable unless thoroughly boiled. 

A fishdrainer, four skewers, or a soup 
plate, wrong side upwards, laid on the 
bottom of the boiling pot, will prevent 
the lower side of the meat from being 
overdone, or burnt by sticking. 

The broth of every joint may be made 
into savory soup. 

Meat loses in cooking from one-fifth 
to one-third of its weight. Boiling is the 
more economical way of cooking, if the 
broth be used. One pound a day for each 
person in the family is a liberal allow- 
ance for dinner. 

The sauces sent to table with boiled 
meat must be served in boats, not poured 
over it. 

Roasting. — The first preparation must 



138 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



be to see that the spit is cleaned with 
sand and water. It should be wiped 
while hot, as soon as meat is drawn from 
it, and scoured always before use. Joint 
the meat properly for the convenience of 
the carver, and balance it evenly on the 
spit, that its motion may be regular and 
the fire operate equally on each part of 
it. Use balance skewers, if necessary^ 
and do not run the spit through the 
prime part of the joint. Take care that 
the meat has been kept long enough to 
be tender. A leg of mutton should never 
be spitted, as the spit lets out the gravy, 
and leaves an unsightly perforation just 
as you are cutting into the pope's eye. 

Roast meat by the radiant heat of a 
clear, glowing fire, otherwise it is baked. 
The "old EngUsh roast beef" was not 
done in an oven. 

The Paschal lamb among the Jews, 
was roasted whole ; among eastern na- 
tions sheep are thus brought to table; 
but it is not done among us, except when 
pigs, with apples in their mouths, grace 
the board at country taverns, at some 
Fourth of July celebration. 

Put the joint to roast when the fire is 
newly made up. that the heat may in- 
crease by degrees ; proportion the fire to 
the size of the joint, making it a few 
inches longer. What would roast a sirloin 
will burn up a smaller piece. Clear the 
fire of smoky coals before the joint is 
put down. The distance from the fire is 
mentioned by Webster as from nine to 
thirteen inches ; by Kitchiner, from ten 
to fourteen. It should be put at the fur- 
thest point at first. The fat parts should 
have paper skewered or tied over them, 
or be covered with a coarse paste of flour 
and water, fastened on by paper and a 
string, and taken ofi' in time to brown 
and froth the meat. Fat meat requires 
more roasting than lean. In roasting by 
a string, pass a skewer through each end 
of the joint, and turn it bottom upwards, 
that the gravy may flow to each part. 



If the joint is thicker at one end than 
the other, place the spit slanting, the thick- 
est part nearest the fire. Be careful not 
to put meat too near the fire at first ; 
and the larger the joint the farther off 
it must be kept ; if once scorched, the 
outside will become hard, and the fire 
will not penetrate the interior. 

Mrs. Hale says : In stirring the fire, 
be careful to remove the dripping-pan, 
else dust and ashes may fall in. On no 
account let the fire get dull and low, as a 
strong heat is requisite to brown the 
meat. 

A thin joint requires a brisk fire ; a 
large joint, a strong, sound and even fire. 
When steam rises from the meat, it is 
done. 

Large joints should be put at a moder- 
ate distance from the fire, and gradually 
brought nearer; else the meat will be 
overdone half way through the joint, and 
be nearly raw at the bone. 

Such meat as is not very fat should 
have paper placed over it, to prevent it 
from being scorched. 

Do not sprinkle the meat with salt 
when first put down, as the salt draws 
out the gravy. 

Old meats require more cooking than 
young. The longer the meat has been 
killed, the less time it requires to roast 
it. Very fat meat requires more time 
than usual. 

The general rule is to allow fifteen 
minutes to a pound for roasting with a 
good fire, and ten or twenty minutes over, 
as the family like it well done or not. 

Kitchiner says: " Slow roasting is equal- 
ly important with slow boiling." There 
should be a meat-screen to guard it from 
currents of air. Reckon the time to the 
moment the roast will be eaten — allow- 
ing for the previous courses. If a joint 
stands after roasting, it will not be " done 
to a turn." Its size and age, the weather, 
the fire, the degree of attention, and 
many other circumstances, have to be 



KUDIMENT8 OF COOKERY. 



139 



considered, and make this process very 
diflficult to perform in perfection. 

When the joint is half done, stir up 
the fire thoroughly. "When it is satura- 
ted with heat, steam will begin to rise. 

To Baste roast meat, is to moisten it 
while before the fire, to prevent the sur- 
face from being scorched. Meat should 
be basted at first every ten minutes, and 
afterwards more frequently. Beef and 
mutton may be basted with their own 
dripping. Veal and poultry require an 
addition of butter, suet, or dripping. 
Some meats are basted with flavored 
material : claret, sweet-herbs and but- 
ter being used for mutton and lamb. For 
a pig, cream and melted butter are re- 
commended. For veal and other white 
meats, a basting is made of the yolk 
of eggs, grated biscuits, and the juice of 
an orange. Butter, clarified suet, and 
drippings, are used commonly for roast 
meat. 

To Brown Meat. — Make the fire brisk- 
er when the joint is half done, or add 
a glaze to improve the appearance. 

To Froth it. — Dredge the whole joint 
lightly with flour, when sufiiciently 
roasted, and immediately baste it with 
butter or dripping. Stir the fire, and in 
three minutes take down and dish the 
meat. Use butter to froth poidtry or 
lamb. The process plumps up the skin, 
and improves its appearance. Do not 
use too much flour ; the meat should 
have a light varnish of froth, not a cover- 
ing of paste, 

Dredgings are of flour simply, or flour 
and grated bread ; or sweet herbs dried, 
•powdered and mixed with flour; or pow- 
dered sugar mixed with pounded cinna- 
mon and grated bread; or dried and 
pounded lemon peel mixed with flour ; 
or fennel, or coriander seed, cinnamon 
and sugar, powdered and mixed with 
grated bread. 

Dripping is the fat which drops from 
roasting meat, and is used in frying, 



basting, or making plain pastry. When 
a joint of beef is roasted, pour the melt- 
ed fat into a basin of cold, clean water ; 
the heavy particles sink to the bottom ; 
the melted fat floats, and when cold, 
forms a clear cake of fat, fit for use 
several days in cool weather. Drip- 
ping that has been used for frying (un- 
less fish or pork has been fried in it) 
may be clarified in this way, for use 
a second time. Beef suet should be slow- 
ly melted, and passed through a sieve 
into cold water ; when caked it may be 
put into ajar, and kept in a cool place. 

The Skimmings of Soxips and Gravies 
— called " top-pot^'' — is used by French 
cooks with flour, to thicken gravies and 
soups, and by some for frying. 

French Cooking. — French cooks sub- 
ject their meats to a gradual long con- 
tinued action of heat, making the fibre 
perfectly tender. The English and Amer- 
icans cook them too fast; the French 
would pronounce such food only fit for 
barbarians. Another peculiarity of French 
cooking is the variety of flavors impart- 
ed to meat. A great number of dishes 
are prepared from a few original sub- 
stances, and the addition of a particular 
sauce gives a name to the dish. In our 
cooking, the flavor peculiar to each meat 
is preserved, and no condiment is suffer- 
ed to overpower it. French dishes are 
more sightly ; light and elegant dishes, 
not ponderous masses, tempt the appe- 
tite. The French cooking is also more 
economical. Nothing is wasted ; and 
many ingredients are brought into use 
which we would cast aside as useless. 

Braising is an important part of the 
art of cooking, and, like the saute, be- 
longs entirely to the French school from 
which it takes its name, braise being the 
remains of wood burnt in the oven, or 
live charcoal : this plan of cookery re- 
quires the action of the fire under and 
over the braising pan, which is air-tight, 
in order that the aromatic flavor arising 



140 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



from its contents may be imbibed by the 
meat or poultry, and give it that succu- 
lence so much esteemed by epicures. Its 
origin is stated to be owing to a gastro- 
nomic society which was fonnerly in 
existence in Paris, whose object was to 
benefit and improve the art of cookery, 
and who offered a reward of a silver 
gridiron to any culinary artist who 
would discover a new mode of dressing 
a turkey. Although a gridiron was, no 
doubt, intended to be used, yet a young 
artist named La Gacque, warmed by the 
.offer, directed his imagination to quite 
a different mode, and used the pan instead 
of the gridiron, and thus composed the 
braise, which was unanimously approved 
of by that scientific, gastronomic, and 
epicurean body, who awarded him the 
prize. The chief art in braising is to do 
it slowly, taking care that the ingredients 
are well proportioned. Put the meat 
you would braise into a stewpan, and 
cover it with thick shces of fat bacon ; 
then lay round it six or eight onions, a 
fagot of sweet herbs, some celery, and, 
if to be brown, some thick shces of 
carrots, and trimmings of any fresh meat- 
bones you have, with a pint and a half of 
water, or the same quantity of stock, 
according to what the meat is, and add 
seasoning. Lay on a sheet of paper, 
cover the pan close, and set it over a 
slow stove ; it will require two or three 
hours, as its size and quality may direct. 
Then strain the gravy ; keep the meat 
quite hot ; take the fat off by plunging 
the basin into cold water, which will 
cause the fat to coagulate ; and b©il it as 
quickly as you can till it thickens. If, 
however, you wish the gravy to adhere 
to the meat, it must be still further 
thickened ; then with a brush kept for 
the purpose do over the meat, and if 
that has been larded, put it into the oven 
for a few minutes. This is called " glaz- 
ing," and is much in use for made- 
dishes. 



A Braising Pan is a sort of oblong 
kettle, with a bordered lid on which 
coals or ashes may be put. The lid 
should closely fit the pan. 

Glazing is strong gravy, boiled quickly 
till thick ; and it is put on meat with a 
brush. Hams, tongues, and stewed beef 
may be glazed. 

Jerlced Beef is made by cutting it into 
thin slices, dipping them into salt or sea 
water, and drying them in the sun. This 
is done in the West Indies. 

Broiling. — The gridiron must be kept 
perfectly clean and bright ; always wiped 
when hot after use, and rubbed just be- 
fore the meat is laid on it. with clean fat 
or suet. The bars must be thoroughly 
hot, but not so as to burn. They should 
be concave, and terminate in a trough to 
catch the gravy. The fire must be clear 
and glowing, especiallj'' for a beefsteak, 
for which the passage in Macbeth is a 
good direction. " When 'tis done, then 
'twere well it were done quickly." Mut- 
ton chops do not require quite so brisk 
a fire. If the article to be broUed is 
thick, it must be warmed through more 
gradually. The broiling must be done as 
quickly as possible, to avoid drying up 
the juices and hardening the fibre of 
meat. Beef and mutton require a hotter 
^re than pork or veal, poultry, or fish. 
Let the steak be uniformly thick ; beef- 
steaks not more than half an inch thick; 
mutton a little thicker. 

Do not sprinkle the steak with salt 
before, or while broiling. It draws out 
the grav}^. Pepper may be used. Do 
not turn the steaks with a fork, but with 
a small tongs. 

A charcoal fire is convenient for broil- 
ing. When the chops are placed on the 
gridiron, set the dish to heat in which 
they are to be served, and send to table 
as hot as possible. 

Soyer says : " As regards the thick- 
ness of the meat to be broiled, that de- 
pends in a great measure on the intensity 



KI7DIMENT8 OF COOKERY. 



141 



of the fire, but the quicker the better, 
and also the sooner it is eaten after taken 
from the fire the better it wUl be. I 
have latterly, in broiling rump-steaks, 
added that which, by a great many, is con- 
sidered an improvement ; it is, on turn- 
ing them the last time, to dredge them out 
of a dredger with fine holes, in which have 
been placed four table-spoonfuls of fine 
biscuit or rusk-powder, one tablespoon- 
ful of salt, one teaspoonful of pepper, a 
saltspoonful ©f either eschalot- powder or 
mushroom-powder, or finely pulverized 
salts of celery, well mixed together, and 
the steak to be placed in a very hot dish, 
with a little mushroom-catsup, and a small 
piece of butter, and served immediately." 

Frying. — Though a convenient mode 
of cooking, this is seldom done well. It 
is to roast quickly, or scorch meat, &c., 
in fat in an iron pan. If little fat is used, 
it is called sauteing. The pan should 
be flat and thick-bottomed, with perpen- 
dicular sides. Dripping, oil, butter, 
fresh lard, or clarified suet — perfectly 
clean, fresh and sweet, must, when melt- 
ed, cover the bottom of the pan ; when 
this is h'^ated sufficiently, the meat or fish 
must be put in and turned frequently, 
from one side to the other. When near- 
ly done, they may be browned by being 
pressed firmly against the bottom of the 
pan. 

Be careful that the fat or oil is fresh, 
clean, and free from salt, else what you 
fry in it will be of bad color and flavor ; 
salt will prevent it from bi'owning. 

Fat or oil, to be u?ed again, should be 
strained througlj a sieve before it is set 
aside. 

Fat becomes richer from having meat 
fried in it, and may be used repeatedly ; 
but the fat that has been used for fish 
cannot be used again for meat. 

To prepare crumbs for frying, dry thor- 
oughly in a warm oven, or before the 
fire, any waste pieces of bread; then 
pound them in a mortar and sift them, 



and put them away till wanted. This is 
much better than grating bread as it is 
needed, or using oatmeal, &c. 

When you wish fried things to look as 
well as possible, do them twice over with 
egg and crumbs. 

If eggs be very dear, a little flour and 
water may be substituted for them in 
preparing fish to fry. 

In frying use a slice to lift the articles 
in and out of the pan, and drain them. 

To make batter for frj'ing : melt two 
ounces of butter in a little warm water, 
and pour it upon half-a-pound of flour ; 
stir it and add water enough to form a 
batter, thick enough to adhere to what- 
ever is put into it ; but it should run 
freely: add some salt and the beaten 
whites of two eggs. 

A small shallow frying-pan. or saute- 
pan, as it is called, is very useful to fry 
articles to be stewed : this method dif- 
fers from common frying, as it onl}^ re- 
quires butter enough to keep the article 
from sticking to the pan and burning. 

The fire for frying should be free from 
smoky coals, sharp, and even. Charcoal 
makes the best frying fire. • 

The fit should be carefully drained 
from all fried articles; indeed, they 
should be so dry as scarcely to soil a 
cloth. Fish is best drained by wrapping 
it in soft whitey-brown paper, by which 
it will so dry as not to soil the napkin 
upon wliich it is served. 

The great secret in frying is to know 
when the fat is of a proper heat. Put 
nothing in till it has done hissing, and is 
still. Or throw a small bit of bread into 
the pan ; if it fries crisp, the fat is ready ; 
if it burns, too hot. Whatever is fried 
in fat not heated enough, will be pale and 
sodden. Fish should be crisp and dry 
ill a few minutes after it is out of the 
pan ; when it is not so, dry it on a cloth 
before the fire. 

Baking. — Baking is a very common 
and convenient mode of dressing a dinner 



x42 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



in small families, and much used in these 
United States. The southern cook will 
often stand in the midst of a circle of 
portable ovens, placed on the brick floor 
of the kitchen, which is usually at some 
distance from the dwelling-house. 

Legs of mutton and pork, fillets of 
veal, and many other joints, will bake 
nicely if inclined to be fat ; if lean, they 
will not taste well, but will shrivel up 
and lose much in weight. 

A pig, geese and ducks, a buttock, leg 
or shin of beef, a ham, oxcheek, and va- 
rious kinds of fish, make very nice baked 
dishes. The oven in preparing all kinds 
of bread and farinaceous food, is indis- 
pensable. 

Stewing. — All articles to be stewed 
should first be boiled gently, then skim- 
med and set aside in an even heat : on 
this account, charcoal makes the best fire 
for stewing. 

All stews, or meat dressed a second 
time, should be only simmered, as the 
meat should only be made hot through. 

A stewpan is the most advantageous 
vessel in which stews, hashes, soups, or 
gsavies, can be made ; indeed, for all pur- 
poses of boiling, a stewpan is preferable 
to a deep saucepan, as, in the former, the 
articles are exposed to more even heat 
than when they are placed one above 
another in the saucepan, and are likely 
to be broken in stirring. 

The best stewpans are made of copper 
or iron ; they should be kept covered as 
much as possible, unless you wish to re- 
duce the gravy. 

Be careful not to fry in a stewpan ; or 
if 80, with great care, and sufficient but- 
ter to save the tinning from melting. 

Most of the directions for making 
soups and gravies apply also to this 
branch of cookery. 

Foeling. — Put into a stewpan with 
two pounds of veal, a pound of beef suet, 
one of butter, one of very fat bacon, all 
cut up ; fry them till the veal becomes 



white ; put in three pints of boiling 
water, a handful of salt, a few sprigs of 
thyme, a bay leaf, an onion stuck with 
cloves, and a bundle of parsley and green 
onions. Boil the whole gently till the 
onion is done, strain it through a sieve, 
and set it by for use. 2 oele will keep 
for a week, and will give relish and 
whiteness to everything boiled in it. Do 
not boil any lean of bacon ; it will give 
a red color from the saltpetre. Meat in 
poeling must be under-don«. 

Larding. — Have ready larding-pins of 
difierent sizes, according to the article to 
be done ; cut slices of bacon into bits of 
a proper length, quite smooth, and put 
on a larding-needle to suit it, with which 
pierce the skin and a very little of the 
meat, leaving the bacon in, and the two 
ends of equal length outwards. Lard in 
rows the size you think fit. 

The same effect with regard to flavor, 
may be produced by raising the skin and 
laying a slice of fat bacon beneath it. 

DouMng consists in passing bacon 
through meat, while larding is on the 
surface only. 

Glazing is done by brushing melted 
glaze or jelly over the article, and letting 
it cool; in some cases it is requisite to 
cover the articles with two or three 
coats of glaze, allowing each to cool as it 
is laid on. The glaze should be of a clear 
yellow brown, and as thick as good 
treacle. 

If you have not the glaze ready, sift a 
little sugar over the article to be glazed, 
and finish in the oven, with a salaman- 
der, or red hot shovel. 

Blanching makes the article plump 
and white, and consists in putting it into 
cold water over the fire, allowing it to 
boil up, and then plunging it into cold 
water, where the article should remain 
until quite cold. 

Danger from Copper Saucepans. — The 
precise danger from the use of copper 
saucepans, or stewpans, imperfectly tin- 



HINTS AND MAXIMS. 



143 



ned, is hardly understood. It appears 
that the acid contained in stews and 
other made dishes, as lemon-juice, though 
it does not dissolve copper by being 
merely boiled in it a few minutes, never- 
theless, if allowed to cool and stand in 
it for some time, will acquire poisonous 
matter, as verdigris, in the form of a 
green band, or crust, inside the vessel. 
It has likewise been proved that weah 
solutions of common salt, such as are 
daily made by adding a little salt to boil- 
ing vegetables, fish, or meat, act power- 
fully on copper vessels, although strong 
solutions or brine would not affect them. 

It is, however, in vain to hope that 
cooks will attend to the nice distinctions 
by which copper stewpans may be ren- 
dered safe ; the general advice given by 
prudent physicians is, therefore, against 
their use at all. 

The kettles in which the soups are 
made should be well tinned, and kept 
particularly clean, by being washed in 
hot water and rubbed dry before they 
are put away. If they are not kept well 
tinned, the taste as well as the color of 
the soup wUl be liable to be affected by 
the iron ; and if the soup-kettle be made 
of copper, and the tinning not quite per- 
fect, everything cooked in it will be more 
or less poisonous, as everything which is 
sweet, salt, or sour, extracts verdigris 
from copper. 

Boning^ besides its other advantages, 
is particularly recommended, on account 
of its economy : the bones of turkeys, 
fowls, harcs^ &c., assisting to make gravy, 
while they are nearly useless when left 
in the bodies of the animals • a boned 
fowl also, rendered solid by stuflBng, will 
go much further than when dressed in 
the common way. Hares should always 
be boned, for the sake of the improve- 
ment in their appearance, and being so 
much more easily carved. In the hiring 
of a cook by persons resident in the 
country, it is therefore essential to ascer- 



tain whether she is mistress of that art ; 
for as to teaching her by printed direc- 
tions, it would be time thrown away, 
and she can only acquire it by practice ; 
but it may be learned by a few lessons 
from the poulterer. 




Napkin Bings. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

HINTS AND MAXIMS. 

If you chance to occupy the important 
position of a cook, remember that clean- 
liness is the first, second and third requi- 
site in point of importance, to be ob- 
served. 

Keep your flour-box, sugar, salt, and 
spices always covered, that dust and in- 
sects may not get in. 

Never put onions or cheese on the 
same dish with anything else, and never 
cut anything else with the knife you use 
for them. Keep a particular pitcher for 
beer or buttermilk, or you may chance 
to put milk or water into the remains. 

Empty into some outside drain the 
saucepan in which you have boiled vege- 
tables, as soon as you have done with it ; 
and never put by anything eatable in a 
saucepan. This is a 'fearfully common 
practice with southern cooks. Keep your 
tin and copper vessels as sweet and clean 



144 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



as glass or china. The saucepans are of 
fap more consequence than tumblers or 
teacups. If glasses be dirty, those who 
drink from them are disgusted ; but if 
saucepans be foul, they may chance to be 
poisoned. Many have died from this 
cause. The sort of rust which forms in 
copper vessels not kept clean is a deadly 
poison. If a housekeeper is careful, she 
will look into all her saucepans at least 
once a week, to see if they are well clean- 
ed, or want tinning. 

Let the dinner be served quite hot, 
and have the plates as hot as you can 
handle them, Cold plates spoil the fin- 
est joint of meat ; and it is very easy to 
have plates hot. At breakfast and tea 
carry in the water quite boiling, and then 
it will not be your fault if the tea is not 
good. It is a very common fault in cooks, 
as soon as the teakettle boils, to set it on 
one side where the water cools a little, so 
that it is not quite boiling when poured 
on the tea. 

The true economy of housekeeping is 
simply the art of gathering up all the 
fragments, so that nothing be lost. I 
mean fragments of time^ as well as ma- 
terials. Nothing should be thrown away 
so long as it is possible to make any use 
of it, however trifling that use may be ; 
and whatever be the size of a family, 
every member should be employed either 
in earning or in saving money. 

In early childhood, you lay the founda- 
tion of poverty or riches in the habits 
you give your children. Teach them to 
save everything ; not for their oicn use — 
fur that would make them selfish — but 
for so7ne use. Teach them to share every- 
thing with their playmates ; but never 
allow them to destroy anything. 

As far as possible, have bits of bread 
eaten before they become hard. Spread 
the rest out to dry to be pounded for 
puddings, or soaked for " brewis." This 
is made of dry crusts and bits of bread 



soaked in hot milk, mashed, salted and 
buttered like toast. 

An ox's gall will set any color in silk, 
cotton or woollen. The colors of calico 
which would fade in one washing will be 
fixed by it. It is worth while to buy 
cheap fading goods, and set them in this 
way. Get out all the liquid from the gall, 
and cork it up in a large phial. One large 
spoonful in a gallon of warm water is 
sufficient. It is also excellent for taking 
out spots from bombazine and stiff goods, 
which, washed in it, look as well as new. 
It must be stirred into the water. After 
washing cloth in this water, you must 
wash it if you wish to clear it, in warm 
suds, not putting soap upon it. 

Lamps will have a less disagreeable 
smell if you dip the wick yarn in strong 
hot vinegar and dry it. 

Do not let cofiee and tea stand in tin. 
Keep tinware dry, and scald wooden- 
ware often. 

Eggs will keep almost any length of 
time in lime water properly prepared. 
One pint of coarse salt, and one pint of 
unslacked lime, to a common pailful of 
water. If there be too much lime it will 
eat the eggs from the shells ; and if a sin- 
gle egg be cracked it will spoil the whole. 
They should be covered with lime water, 
and kept in a cold place. It is a good 
plan to lay down eggs in the spring and 
September for the winter. 

Few know how to keep the flavor of 
sweet marjoram, the best of all herbs for 
broth and stuffing. It should be gathered 
in bud or blossom and dried in a tin kitch- 
en at a moderate distance from the fire ; 
when dry it should be rubbed, sifted, and 
corked up in a bottle. 

Bones from which roasting pieces have 
been cut may be bought in market for a 
trifle, and a very rich soup made of them, 
besides skimming the fat for shortening. 
Bones from the rump are full of marrow, 
and will yield a pint of good shortening 



HINTS AND MAXIMS. 



145 



without impairing the richness of the 
soup. The best pieces of beef for soup 
are the leg and shin ; if boiled very long, 
the sinews add to the richness of the 
soup. 

The shoulder of veal is the moSt 
economical for roastinji or boiling; two 
dinners may be made from it — the shoul- 
der roasted, and the knuckle cut ofl' to be 
boiled with pork and greens, or made 
into soup. 

Keep an old blanket and sheet for iron- 
ing, and on no account suffer any other 
to be used. Have plenty of holders, and 
do not put towels to such service. 




ScrubbiDg Brush. 

Keep a coar&e broom for the cellar 
stairs, wood shed, yard, &c. Never use 
a carpet broom for such places. 

Never drop knives into hot dishwater. 
Have a large tin basin to wash them in, 
just high enough to wash the blades with- 
out wetting the handles. Keep your cas- 
tors covered with blotting paper and 
green flannel. Keep your salt spoons out 
of the salt, and clean them often. 

Do not wrap knives and forks in wool- 
lens, but in strong paper. Steel is in- 
jured by lying in woollens. It is a good 
plan to rub the blades with nice grease, 
and wrap them up separately, to prevent 
rust. 

Herbs should be kept from the air. 
Herb tea, to do any good, should be 
made very strong. Herbs must be gath- 
ered while in blossom. Those who have 



a little ground wdll do well to raise the 
most useful herbs ; apothecaries make 
large profits on them. 

The same pickle used for bacon is good 
for neats' tongues. Pigs' tongues are nice, 
prepared in the same way. They are 
sold in England for reindeers' tongues, 
as a great luxury.. 

Buffaloes' tongues should soak a day 
and a night, and boil six hours. 

Molasses used in cooking should be 
first boiled and skimmed. One or two 
gallons may be thus prepared at a time. 
It is a prodigious improvement. 

Always have a heavy stone on the top 
of your pork in pickle. You may keep 
a bit of fresh meat on this stone, in sum- 
mer, when you fear it may spoil. 

Have plenty of towels in the kitchen, 
or Biddy will use your white napkins. 

Soap dirty clothes, and soak them in 
water over night. Use hard soap for 
clothes, and soft for washing floors. 

Cut lemon and orange peel, when fresh, 
into a bottle kept full of brandy. This 
brandy gives a delicious flavor to pies, 
cakes, &c. Roseleaves may be preserv- 
ed in brandy. Peach leaves steeped in 
it make an excellent seasoning for cus- 
tards and puddings. 

Grate horseradish when the root is in 
perfection, put it in bottles, fill it with 
strong vinegar, and keep it corked tight, 
for winter use. 

Keep a bag for odd pieces of tape and 
strings, and a bag or box for old buttons. 

A little salt sprinkled in starch, while 
boiling, prevents its sticking ; it is also 
good to stir it with a clean sperm 
candle. 

To separate wax from honeycomb, tie 
up the comb in a linen or woollen bag ; 
place it in a kettle of cold water, and 
hang it over the fire. The wax melts 
and rises to the surface, while all the 
impurities remain in the bag. A few 



146 



TKE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



pebbles in the bag will prevent its float- 
ing. 

Honey may be separated from the 
comb by placing it in the hot sun or 
before the fire, with two or three col- 
anders or sieves under it — each finer 
than the other. 

Potatoes boiled and mashed hot, are 
good in shortcakes and puddings ; they 
save flour and shortening. 

To corn meat simply — rub in plenty 
of salt, and set it in the cellar for a day 
or two. In summer it is good to corn 
meat, which will not keep more than a 
day and a half. If you want to keep it 
longer, rub in more salt, and secure it 
from the flies. A little saltpetre rubbed 
in before you apply the common salt, 
makes the meat tender ; but it is not 
best to use it in summer. 

Legs of mutton are good, aired in the 
same way as hams — six pounds salt, 
eight ounces saltpetre, five pints molasses, 
will make pickle enough for one hundred 
pounds. Small legs should be kept in 
pickle twelve or fifteen days ; large, four 
or five weeks ; and they should be hung 
up a day or two before being smoked. 
Lay them in the oven on crossed sticks, 
and make a fire at the entrance with 
cobs or walnut bark, or chips, which im- 
part a sweet taste. Smoke the smallest 
pieces forty-eight hours ; the large legs 
four or five days. If hung till thorough- 
ly dry, the mutton may be eaten in thin 
slices, like hung beef When legs of 
meat are put in pickle, the thickest part 
should be uppermost, as the creature 
stood while living ; also when hung to 
dry; thus the juices of the meat are kept 
in. Meat should be turned over once or 
twice while smoking. 

Hams should be well covered in paper 
bags, and put in a chest or barrel, with 
layers of charcoal or ashes between. 
When you take one out to cut for use, 
put it away in a dark place, well covered. 



Let there be a place for every article, 
and when not in use let every article be 
in its place. 

Keep every utensil ready for immediate 
use. 

The stock pot should never be suffered 
to be empty, as aknost any meats (save 
salt meats) or fowls make stock; the 
remnants should never be thrown any- 
where but into the stock pot, and should 
too much stock be already in your pos- 
session, boil it down to a glaze: waste 
is thus avoided. 

Keep your meat in a cool, dry place ; 
your fish on ice, and your vegetables on 
a stone floor free from air. 

Cut your soap when it comes in, and 
let it dry slowly. 

Keep your sweet herbs in paper bags, 
each bag containing only one description 
of herb. They should be dried in the 
wind and not in the sun, and when order- 
ed in a receipt should be cautiously used, 
as a preponderance in any seasoning 
spoils it. 

When oranges or lemons are used for 
juice, chop down the peel, put them in 
small pots and tie them down for use. 

Apples. — In choosing apples, be guided 




Apple Peeler, 
by the weight ; the heaviest are the best. 



HINTS AND MAXIMS. 



147 



and those should always be selected 
which, on being pressed by the thumb, 
yield with a slight crackling noise. Pre- 
fer large apples to small, for waste is 
saved in peeling and coring. 

Apples should be kept on dry straw 
in a dry place, and pears hung up by the 
stalk. 

Batter for fish, meat, fritters, &c. — 
Prepare it with fine flour, salt, a little oil, 
beer, vinegar, or white wine, and the 
whites of eggs beaten up ; when of a pro- 
per thickness, about the size of a nutmeg, 
it will drop out of the spoon at once. 
Fry in oil or hog's lard. 

Carrots, if young, need only be wiped 
when boiled — if old, they must be scraped 
before boiling. Slice them into a dish, 
and pour over them melted butter. 

Cauliflowers. — Cut ofi" the stalks, 
but leave a little of the green on ; boil in 
spring water with a little salt in it : they 
must not boil too fast. 

Celery. — Very little is sufficient for 
soups, as the flavor is very predominating. 
It should be particularly cleanly washed 
and curled when sent to table. To curl 
celery, wash well, and take off the out- 
side stalks, cut it to a proper length, 
split each stalk into three or four divi- 
sions with a large needle, then place the 
head of celery in spring water with the 
root uppermost, and let it remain for 
four or five hours — it may then be taste- 
fully arranged on tne dish. 

Game may often be made fit for eating 
when it seems spoiled, by cleaning it and 
washing with vinegar and water. Birds 
that are not likely to keep, should be 
drawn, cropped, and picked, then washed 
in two or three waters, and rubbed 
with salt; have in readiness a large 
saucepan of boiling water, and plunge 
them into it one by one, drawing them 
up and down by the legs, so that the wa- 
ter may pass through them. Let them 
stay for five or six minutes, then hang 
them up in a cold place ; when they are 



completely drained, well salt and pepper 
the insides, and thoroughly wash them 
before roasting. 

Gravies. — The skirts of beef and the 
kidney will make quite as good gravy as 
any other meat, if prepared in the same 
manner. The kidney of an ox, or the 
milt, makes excellent gravy, cut to pieces 
and prepared as other meat, and so with 
the shank end of mutton that has been 
dressed, if much gravy is not required. 
The shank bones of mutton add greatly 
to the richness of gravies, but they should 
be first well soaked and scoured clean. 
The taste of gravies is improved by tar- 
ragon, but it should be sparingly used, 
immediately before serving. 

Lard should be carefullj^ melted in a 
jar put in a kettle of water and boiled, 
and run into bladders that have been 
strictl}- cleaned ; the bladders should not 
be too large, as the lard will become rank 
if the air gets to it. While melting it, 
put in a sprig of rosemary. 

Mustard mixed smooth with new 
milk, and a little cream added, will keep ; 
it is very soft, and by no means bitter. 

Sago should soak for an hour in wa- 
ter previous to using, to take otf the 
earthy taste. 

Suet may be kept for a twelvemonth, 
thus : choose the firmest and most free 
from skin or veins, remove all traces of 
these, put the suet in a saucepan at some 
distance from the fire, and let it melt 
gradually ; when melted, pour it into a 
pan of cold spring water; when hard, 
wipe it dry, fold it in white paper, put it 
into a linen bag, and keep it in a dry, 
cool place ; when used, it must be ^crap 
ed, and will make an excellent crust, 
either with or without butter. 

Tongue, which has been dried, should 
be soaked in water three or four hours. 
One that has not been dried will re- 
quire but little soaking ; put it in cold 
water, and boil gently till tender. 



148 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



Raisin wine may be substituted for 
sherry, for sweets generally- 
Copper vessels, when the tinning is 
worn off, must never be used, or the 
poisoning of those who partake of what- 
ever may have been cooked in them is 
inevitable. They should be sent to be 
re-tinned immediately they require it. 

Keep tapes and jelly bags clean, or 
when again used they will impart an un- 
pleasant flavor. 

All soups should be moderately thin 
and bright. 

Meats, such as beef, mutton, and veni- 
son, must rather be underdone than over- 
done, excepting veal and pork, which re- 
quire to be well done. 

Fish should be quite done, but not 
overdone. 

Pastry must be carefully baked ; it 
should be sent to table a pale gold color. 

Onions should be kept on ropes in a 
dry place — a specked one should be re- 
moved or it will contaminate the others. 

Cold water cracks hot iron infallibly. 

Pudding towels should be carefully 
washed, and kept clean in a dry place. 
Put a clean round towel on the roller 
quite as often as necessary. 

Be very particular in not letting your 
stocks and sauces pass over two days 
without boiling them up, and be careful 
to stir the thick soups and sauces all the 
time they are on the fire, and change all 
your cold meats into fresh clean dishes 
everj^ morning, wiping down the dressers 
and shelves, and if allowed larding cloths 
see that they are clean. Keep your lard- 
er dopr shut, free from dust and damp ; 
do not have your baked paste in the 
larder, but in your kitchen cupboard, 
and then see to your game, wiping, and 
peppering and gingering your venison, 
arranging the game which requires to be 
dressed first, and see that all the blood 
which may have dropped from the game 



or venison is cleaned from the dresser? 
and flooring. Then see to the vegetables, 
removing all stale and what is not want- 
ed, giving it to the poor, either dressed 
in some way or uncooked ; do not be over- 
stocked, but always keep a little reserve. 
Be sure to look well, every morning to 
your pickled pork and hams, keep and 
rub them well, and turn them, marking 
those to be used first. Your fish must be 
looked to and well cleaned and washed, 
and if intended for that day's dinner, 
kept in water until required; if not, 
keep it on the marble or stones ; your 
doors should always be shut. 

Clean hands, always clean hands. 

A dirty kitchen is a disgrace to every 
one connected with it. 

With these few hints we wind up our 
remarks, merely adding that many of the 
receipts given, which are on too large a 
scale for a small family, may have their 
proportions equally reduced, and an ex- 
cellent dish will be the result. In some 
instances also, the more expensive ingre- 
dients may be left out without destroy- 
ing the integrity of the receipt, discre- 
tion and judgment being alone required 
in these cases. 

In conclusion, the mistress of the 
household will understand that the well- 
being of her establishment depends upon 
her surveillance ; and though her too fre- 
quent presence in the kitchen would be 




unnecessary and annoying to the cook 



yet she should not be deterred from vis- 
iting it by any false delicacy, or defer- 
ence to an absurd custom which makes 
it vulgar for a lady to visit her cook 
in her own domains. If the cook is 
thrifty and clean, she will be glad to re- 
ceive the praise to which she is fairly 
entitled ; if dirty and careless, it is very 
essential that the lady should be ac- 
quainted with the fact in order to remedy 
it by a change. 



CHAPTER XXIX. 

AETICLES IN SEASON FOE EACH MONTH. 
JANUARY. 

Fish. — Eels, flounders, haddocks, lam- 
preys, oysters, whitings, clams, muscles, 
striped bass, salt mackerel, smoked sal- 
mon, sardines, anchovies, fish pickled 
and soused. 

Meats. — Beef, mutton, fish, pork, ham, 
venison, veal, sausages, &c. 

Poultry and game. — Capons, fowls, 
ducks, geese. Scotch grouse prairie fowls, 
young rabbits, partridges, pheasants, pi- 
geons, wild birds, turkeys, woodcock, 
snipe, quails, ducks — canvas back, red- 
head, broad bill, teal — bear's meat, jugged 
hare. 

Vegetahles. — Winter spinach, turnips, 
potatoes, sweet potatoes, rice, celery, 
cabbage, parsnips, carrots, dried white 
beans, beets, dried herbs, garlic, onions, 
shalots, leeks, mint, mustard, parsley, 
sage, rosemary, salsify, thyme, &c. 

Fndts. — Apples, oranges, dried figs, 
imported grapes, almonds, rais ns, dates, 
filberts, prunes, hard nuts, Brazil and 
Madeira-nuts, black-walnuts, hickory- 
nuts, peccan-nuts, butternuts, chestnuts. 

FEBRUARY. 

Fish, — Codfish, eels, flounders, had- 
10 



docks, lampreys, oysters, smelts, whitings' 
clams, muscles, striped bass, -smoked sal- 
mon, salt mackerel, sardines, anchovies, 
pickled and soused fish. 

Meats. — Beef mutton, fresh pork, sau- 
sages, venison, ham. 

Poultry and Game. — Fowls, capons, 
ducks, geese. Scotch grouse, prairie fowls, 
partridges, rabbits, pheasants, pigeons, 
turkeys, woodcock, reed birds, quails, 
snipe, ducks — canvas back, red head, 
teal, broad bill, — hare, bear's meat. 

Vegetables. — Turnips, potatoes, sweet 
potatoes, winter spinach, rice, celery, 
cabbage, parsnips, carrots, white beans, 
beets, garlic, onions, shalots, mint, leeks, 
mustard, parsley, sage, salsify, thyme, 
dried herbs. 

Frvits. — Apples, oranges, figs, import- 
ed grapes, almonds, raisins, filberts, dates, 
prunes, hazel-nuts, Brazil and Madeira- 
nuts, black walnuts, hickory nuts, pec- 
can-nuts, butternuts, chestnuts. 



Fish. — Codfish, eels, haddocks, flound- 
ers, oysters, clams, whitings, striped bass, 
perch, smelts, lampieys. salt mackerel, 
smoked salmon, sardines, anchovies, 
pickled and soused fish. 

Meats. — Beefj mutton, pork, ham. 

Poultry and Game. — Fowls, capons, 
tame ducks, geese, Scotch grouse, prairie 
hens, rabbits, partridges, pheasants, pi- 
geons, turkeys, reed birds, woodcock, 
snipe, quails, hare, bear's meat. 

Vegetables. — Spinach, lettuces, cresses, 
turnips, potatoes, sweet potatoes, rice, 
radishes, celciy, cabbage, parsnips, carrots, 
white beans, beets, garlic, onions, shalots, 
leeks, salsify, parsley, sage, thyme, dried 
herbs. 

Fruits. — Apples, oranges, figs, almonds, 
i-aisins, filberts, prunes, hazel-nuts, Brazil 
and Madeira-nuts, hickory-nuts, peccan- 
nuts, chestnuts, dates. 



150 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



Fish. — Brook trout, codfish, halibut, 
shad, striped bass, eels, lobsters, oysters, 
perch, roach, smelts, clams, shrimps, 
Cray, small fish. 

Meats. — Beef, mutton, veal, ham. 

Poultry and Game. — Spring chickens, 
fowls, capon, turkeys, ducks, Scotch 
grouse, prairie hens, partridges, pheasants 
pigeons, quails, woodcock, snipe, bear's 
meat. 

Vegetalles. — Lettuces, spinach, turnips, 
cresses, potatoes, rice, radishes, parsnips, 
carrots, white beans, beets, garlic, onions, 
shalots, leeks, mint, mustard, parsley, 
sage, salsify, thyme, dried herbs, Jerusa- 
lem artichokes. 

Fruits. — Apples, oranges, figs, almonds, 
raisins, prunes, dates, &c. 



Fish. — Terrapin, fresh salmon, turtle, 
trout, codfish, halibut, perch, shad, carp, 
striped bass, eels, English soles, soft 
crabs, lobsters, salmon, roach, smelts, 
shrimp.s, cray fish, prunes, salt and 
smoked fish. 

Meats.— Beef, mutton, veal, ham. 

Poultry and Game. — Spring chickens, 
fowls, capons, Scotch grouse, prairie hens, 
bear's meat. 

Vegetables. — Asparagus, lettuces, cress- 
es, mushrooms, spinach, turnips, pota- 
toes, radishes, rice, parsnips, carrots, 
white beans, onions, mint, mustard, pars- 
ley, sage, thyme, salsify, Jerusalem arti- 
chokes, dry herbs. 

Fruits. — Apples, oranges, figs, almonds, 
raisins, prunes, dates. 



Fish. — Terrapin, fresh salmon, turtle, 
trout, codfish, halibut, perch, pickerel, 
fresh mackerel, shad, carp, sea-bass, 
striped bass, eels, fresh herring, king 
fish, English soles, soft crabs, lobsters, 
salmon-trout, sturgeon. 



Meat. — Beef, mutton, lamb, veal, ham, 
salt pork. 

Poultry and Game. — Spring chickens, 
fowls, capons, bear's meat, grouse, prairie 
fowl. 

Vegetables. — Asparagus, green peas, 
Lima beans, white beans, mushrooms, 
lettuces, cresses, spinach, celery, potatoes, 
radishes, rice, carrots, onions, garlic, 
mint, mustard, parsley, sage, thyme, sal- 
sify, Jerusalem artichokes, dry herbs. 

Fruits. — Strawberries, cherries, cur- 
rants, oranges, figs, almonds, raisins, 
prunes, dates. 



Fish. — Terrapin, turtle, carp, cod, cray 
fish, eels, flounders, fresh salmon, herring, 
lobsters, fresh mackerel, perch, pickerel, 
salmon-trout, trout, sea-bass, striped 
bass, halibut, English soles, blue fish, 
king fi.sh, soft crabs, sturgeon. 

Meats. — Beef, lamb, mutton, salt pork. 

Poultry and Game. — Chickens, fowls, 
green geese, pigeons, plovers. 

Vegetables. — Artichokes, asparagus, 
string beans, Lima and white beans, peas 
of some kinds, carrots, celery, chervil, 
cucumbers, endive, herbs of all kind.'^, 
lettuces, mint, mushrooms, potatoes, 
purslane, cresses, radishes, salads of all 
sorts, salsify, spinach, turnips, green 
corn, tomatoes, succory, squashes, egg- 
plant, cold-slaw. 

Fruits. — Apricots, currants, straw- 
berries, raspberries, blackberries, goose- 
berries, cherries, nectarines, peaches, hot- 
house grapes, melons of various kinds, 
oranges, almonds, raisins, prunes, figs, 
fi-esli figs, pine apples, damsons, plums. 

August. 

Fish. — Terrapin, turtle, perch, codfish, 
pickerel, carp, eels, fresh salmon, salmon- 
trout, brook-trout, lobster, fresh mack- 
erel, striped bass, sea-bass, English soles, 
soft crabs, halibut, cray-fish, blue-fish, 



FOOD FOE THE MONTHS. 



151 



king-fish, sturgeon, smelts, roach, black- 
bass. 

Meats. — Beef, mutton, lamb, veal, salt 
pork, ham. 

Poultry and Game. — Chickens, fowls, 
ducks, green geese, plovers, bear's meat. 

Vegetables. — Artichokes, string-beans, 
lima and white beans, carrots, celery, 
chervil, cucumbers, endive, herbs of all 
kinds, lettuces, mint, potatoes, purslane, 
radishes, cresses, salads, oyster-plant, 
spinach, turnips, green corn, tomatoes, 
succory, squashes, cold slaw, egg plant. 

Fruits, — Raspberries, blackberries, 
peaches, nectarines, green grapes, plums, 
gooseberries, apricots, harvest apples, 
mulberries, melons of various kinds, hot- 
house grapes, pears of different sorts, 
summer pippins, green gages. 

September. 

Fish. — Terrapin, turtle, perch, cod, 
pickerel, eels, fresh salmon, salmon-trout, 
trout, lobster, striped bass, sea-bass, 
black bass, English soles, soft crabs, hali- 
but, cray-fish, blue-fish, king-fish, smelts, 
sturgeon, roach. 

Meats. — Beef, mutton, lamb, veal, ham, 
salt beef and pork. 

Poultry and Game. — Chickens, fowls, 
ducks, green geese, meadow-larks, bear's 
meat. 

Vegetables. — Artichokes, white and 
lima beans, carrots, celery, chervil, cu- 
cumbers, herbs of all kinds, lettuces, 
mint, potatoes, purslane, radishes, salads, 
oy.ster plant, spinach, turnips, beets, 
green corn, tomatoes, succory, squashes, 
cold slaw, egg plant. 

Fruits. — Green grapes, magnum bo- 
num plum. Palmer and Columbia grapes, 
egg plums, gooseberries, nectarines, 
peaches, apples, grapes of diflFerent varie- 
ties, pears of all kinds. 

October. 
Fish. — Terrapin, salmon, striped bass, 



sea-bass, bliie-fish, salmon-trout, lobsters, 
codfish, halibut, black-fish, pickerel, carp, 
eels, soft crabs, perch, trout, oysters. 

Meats. — Beef, mutton, pork, veal, veni- 
son, lamb. 

Poultry and Game. — Meadow-larks, 
chickens, capons, ducks, turkeys, par- 
tridges, wild pigeon, English snipe, grouse 
or prairie-hens, pheasants, quails, wild 
ducks, hares, rabbits, bear's meat. 

Vegetables. — Artichokes, cauliflower, 
broccoli, succory, carrots, celery, leeks, 
onions, parsnips, potatoes, spinach, tur- 
nips, egg-plant, lettuce,, tomatoes, car- 
rots, cabbage, rice, cauliflower, artichokes, 
celery, leeks, onions, parsnips, sweet po- 
tatoes, potatoes, radishes, salads, savoys, 
winter spinach, tomatoes, turnips, suc- 
cory, beets, oyster-plant, egg-plant, dry 
herbs. 

Fruits. — Late peaches, apples, filberts, 
almonds, hazel-nuts, grapes, quinces, wal- 
nuts, hickory-nuts, chestnuts, chincopin.s, 
peccan-nuts. 

November. 

Fish. — Eels, oysters, clams, codfish, 
haddock, lampreys, whitings, muscles, 
striped bass, salt mackerel, smoked sal- 
mon, sardines, anchovies, &c. 

Meats. — Beef, mutton, lamb, pork, 
venison. 

P'oultry and Game. — Chickens, fowls, 
capons, ducks, geese, Scotch grouse, 
prairie-hens, hares, rabbits, partridges, 
pheasants, pigeons, turkeys, reed-birds, 
woodcock, snipe, quails, canvas-back, 
red-head, broadbill, teal-ducks, meadow- 
larks, bear's meat. 

Vegetables. — Celery, cauliflower, cab- 
bage, radishes, winter-spinach, turnips, 
potatoes, sweet potatoes, rice, parsnips, 
carrots, dry white beans, beets, dried 
herbs, garlic, onions, shalots, leeks, mint, 
mustard, parsley, sage, thyme, salsify. 

Fruits. — Late peaches, apples, oranges. 



152 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



almonds, raisins, filberts, prunes, figs, 
hazelnuts, Brazil and Madeira nuts, dates, 
walnuts, hickory-nuts and chestnuts. 

December. 

Pish. — Oysters, clams, eels, haddock, 
lampreys, whitings, muscles, striped- 
bass, salt mackerel, smoked salmon, sar- 
dines, anchovies, &c. 

Meats. — Beef, mutton, pork, veal, 
venison. 

Poultry and Game. — Fowls, turkeys, 
canons, ducks, geese, Scotch grouse, prai- 



rie-hens, hares, rabbits, partridges, 
pheasants, pigeons, reed-birds, woodcock 
snipe, quails, ducks, canvas back, red- 
head, broadbill, teal, — bear's meat. 

VegetaMes. — Cauliflower, celery, cab- 
bage, winter spinach, turnips, potatoeb, 
sweet potatoes, rice, parsnips, carrots, 
dry beans, beets, dried herbs, garlic, 
onions, shalots, leeks, mint, mustard, 
parsley, sage, thyme, salsify. 

Fruits. — Apples, oranges, bananas, al- 
monds, raisins, filberts, prunes, figs, 
hazelnuts, Brazil and Madeira nuts, dates, 
walnuts, hickory-nuts, chestnuts. 



PART SECOOT). 



RECEIPTS. 



SOUPS 



There is no dish, perhaps, that comes 
to table which gives such general satis- 
faction as well prepared soup ; let the 
appetite be vigorous or delicate, an ex- 
cellent soup will always prove graceful 
to it ; and as this is beyond contradic- 
tion, it should be the province of the 
cook to be always in a position to pro- 
duce it at a short notice. 

There should always be plenty of dried 
herbs in the store closet , these may be 
purchased chiefly in quantities at the be- 
ginning of the autumn, of any market- 
gardener. Herbs may be very well kept, 
as indeed they are usually, in paper bags ; 
they shotildle all labelled. When time 
is an important object, the necessity for 
this is obvious — they are always to be 
had when wanted, and the bag should be 
immediately replaced after using. 

There should be a saucepan, or a kettle 
of iron well tinned, kept for soup only ; 
the lid should Jit tightly; one will be 
found to answer all purposes, being es- 
pecially useful as a ''stock-pot." The 
inexperienced reader will understand by 
the term ''stock-pot," that soups being 
of two kinds, brown and white, have dif- 
ferent foundations, that of brown being 
always beef, and that of white, veal; 
there are many ingredients in each, and 
it is the various articles which, when put 
together, are called " stock," hence the 



soup utensil is technically termed the 
stock-pot. 

"When fat remains on any soup, a tea- 
cupful of flour and water mixed quite 
smooth, and boiled in it, will make it 
rise as scum, when it may be taken off. 

If richness oi greater consistency be 
wanted, a good lump of butter mixed 
with floui', and boiled in the soup, will 
give either of these qualities. 

Long boiling is necessary to give the 
fiill flavor of the ingredients, therefore 
time should be allowed for soups and 
gravies. Skim frequently and simmer 
slowly ; but do not let the broth cool 
until it is completely made. 

Be sparing in the use of pepper, salt, 
and spices. 

If onions are too strong, boil a turnip 
with them, and it will render them 
mild. 

Do not keep either soups or gravies in 
anj- vessel of tin or copper ; and in stir- 
ring soup, do it alwaj-s with a wooden 
spoon. 

Arrow-root, or the mere farina or 
flour of the potato, is far better for the 
thickening of soups than wheaten flour. 

The basis of all well-made soups, is 
composed of what English cooks call 
" Stocl;''^ or broth, made from all sorts 
of meat, bones and the remains of poul- 
try or game ; all of which may be put to- 



gether and stewed down in the " Stock- 
pot ; " the contents of which are, by the 
French, termed Consomme. This is chiefly 
used for the preparation of 'brown or gravy 
soups : that intended ior tcMte soups being 
rather differently compounded, though 
made in nearly tlie same manner. 

To the medley of ingredients, add 
carrots cut in thin slices, herbs, onions, 
pepper, and salt ; when it has stewed 
slowly for a short time, pour in the boil- 
ing water in proportion to the quantity 
of meat and soup required ; then stew it 
until it is of a rich consistency, take 
it fi'om the fire, let it cool, remove the 
pot. 

If required the following day, care 
should be taken that the deposit or sedi- 
ment is removed, as also the fat previous 
to warming ; if kept long the pans must 
be changed ; there is as much danger in 
red glazed earthenware as in metal pans ; 
the latter should never be employed to 
keep gravies in, if possible. Wherever 
greater richness is required, it may be 
obtained by the addition of the jelly of 
cow-heel, or a lump of butter and flour. 

Remember, soup is richer and better 
for being made the previous day, or even 
two or three days previously to its being 
required, if it be warmed each day ; to 
be really good it must be well stewed. 

Seasonings for Soups. — Spices should 
be put whole into soups ; allspice is one 
of the best, though it is not so highly 
esteemed as it deserves. Seville orange- 
juice has a finer and milder acid than le- 
mon-juice ; but both should be used with 
caution. Sweet herhs, for soups and 
broths, consist of knotted marjoram, 
thyme, and parsley, — a sprig of each tied 
together. The older and drier onions 
are, the stronger their flavor; in dry 
seasons, also, they are very strong : the 
quantity should be proportioned accord- 
ingly. Although celery may be gener- 
ally obtained for soup throughout the 
year, it may be useful to know, that 



dried celery-seed is an excellent substi- 
tute. It is so strongly flavored, that a 
drachm of whole seed will enrich half a 
gallon of soup as much as two heads of 
celery. Mushrooms are much used, and 
when they cannot be obtained, fresh 
mushroom ketchup will answer the pur- 
pose, but it should be used very sparing- 
ly, as nothing is more difficult to remove 
than the over- flavoring of ketchup. A 
piece of butter, in proportion to the 
liquid, mixed with flour, and added to 
the soup, when boiling, will enrich and 
thicken it. The finer flavoring articles, 
as ketchup, spices, wines, juice, &c., 
should not be added till the soup is near- 
ly done. A good proportion of wine is a 
gill to three pints of soup ; this is as 
much as can be used without the vinous 
flavor predominating, which is never the 
case in well made soups. Wine should 
be added late in the making, as it evapo- 
rates very quickly in boiling. Be cau- 
tious of over-seasoning soups with pep- 
per, salt, spices, or herbs, for it is a fault 
that can seldom be remedied ; any provi- 
sion over-salted is spoiled. A teaspoon- 
ful of sugar is a good addition in flavor- 
ing soups. Vermicelli is added to soups 
in the proportion of a quarter of a pound 
for a tureen of soup for eight persons ; 
it should be broken, then blanched in 
cold water, and is better if stewed in 
broth before it is put into the soup. 

MEAT SOUPS. 

1. — STOCK FOU WHITE SOUPS. 

This is a soup, the foundation of which 
is Tcal, — the knuclde, the scrag, or calf's 
head being the best meat for the purpose, 
— an old fowl, a little ham, or bacon, mut- 
ton, sheep's head, &c., nearly the same 
ingredients as for brown soups, save that 
there must not be much beef, and the 
proportion of ham and bacon smaller in 
the latter than former, and when made 
for white sauce, care must be taken to 
leave out the pepper. 



MEAT SOUPS. 



157 



2. — BROWN STOCK. 

Put ten pounds of sliin of beef, six 
pounds of knuckle of veal, and some 
sheep's-trotters or a cow-heel, in a close- 
ly covered stewpan, with very little 
water to draw out the gravy very gently, 
and allow it nearly to dry in until it be- 
comes brown. Then pour in sufficient 
boiling water to entirely cover the meat, 
and let it boil slowly, skimming it fre- 
quently : seasoninjr it with whole peppers 
and salt, roots, herbs, and vegetables of 
any kind. That being done, let it boil 
gently five or six hours, pour the broth 
from off the meat, and let it stand dur- 
ing the night to cool. The following 
morning take off' the scum and fat, and 
put it away in a stone jar for use.. 

Or: — Put into a stewpan a piece of 
beef, a piece of veal, an old fowl, some 
slices of ham or bacon, and all the trim- 
mings of meat that can be obtained ; add 
to these materials, where such things are 
abundant, partridge, grouse, or other 
game, which may not be sufficiently 
young and tender for the spit. Put a 
littlie water to it, just enough to cover 
half the meat, and stew very gently over 
a slow fire or steam apparatus. When 
the top piece is done through, cover the 
meat with boiling water or broth ; sea- 
son with spices and vegetables ; stew all 
together for eight or ten hours in an un- 
covered stewpan; skim off" the fat, and 
strain the liquor through a fine sieve. 

Brown stock may be made from an ox- 
cheek, ox-tail, brisket, flank, or shin of 
beef ; which will, either together or sepa- 
rately, make a strong jelly if stewed 
down with a piece of ham or lean bacon, 
in the proportion of one-half pound to 
every seven pounds of meat; but the 
shin of beef alone will afford a stronger 
and better flavor. 

This stock may also be reduced to a 
glaze by boiling the skimmed liquor as 
fast as possible in a newly tinned stew- 



pan, until it becomes of the desired con- 
sistence and of a good brown color ; tak- 
ing care at the same time to prevent it 
from burning. 

3. — BROWN GRAVY SOUP. 

The meat used for making this soup 
should be quite fresh, and of the common 
gravy beef; if the shin be used, break 
the bones, as the marrow will add to its 
richness. 

Take sfeven to eight pounds of the 
meat, cut a small portion of it into thick 
piece.« and put it with three or four large 
sliced onions into a close stewpan, with a 
little butter, until fried to a fine brown. 
That done, add a shank of ham, just 
cover the meat with cold water — say a 
couple of quarts — and let it simmer by 
the fire for at least three hours ; during 
which time it should not be allowed to 
boil, but, when coming to that point, 
check it with cold water, and skim it. 
As the pores of the meat will then be 
opened, and the gravy drawn, throw in 
three quarts of warm water, along with 
a handful or one quarter ounce each of 
black pepper, allspice, and salt, as well as 
a bundle of sweet herbs, a few cloves, a 
couple of shalots, two or three middling- 
sized carrots and turnips (the latter an 
hour afterwards), together with a couple 
of heads of celery, and allow the whole 
to boil slowly until the meat is done to 
rags, and the vegetables become tender. 
Then strain it off", and let it stand during 
the night. Remove the fat on the fol- 
lowing day, set any portion of it on the 
fire an hour before dinner, and, when 
thoroughly heated, season it with mush- 
room or walnut ketchup, and ^end it up 
with a plate of toasted bread, cut into 
small square pieces, without crust. 

You will thus form a gallon to five or 
six quarts of strong soup, according to 
the quality of the meat ; but as it is a 
winter soup, it will bear keeping, and, 
if served more than once, the flavor 



158 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



may be varied by the addition of differ- 
ent sorts of ingredients, as for instance 
— first, plain gravy ; secondly, gravy and 
vegetables ; and thirdly, vermicelli : or 
if only one-half or a third part of the 
quantity be wanted, it may be prepared 
in the t^ame manner by proportionally 
reducing the materials. It may be also 
flavored with red wine. 

4. — soyer's stock for all kinds of 

SOUP. 

Procure a knuckle of veal about six 
pounds in weight, which cut into j ieces 
about the size of an egg, as al.~o half a 
pound of lean ham or bacon ; then rub a 
quarter of a pound of butter upon the 
bottom of the stewpan (capable of hold- 
ing about two gallons), into which put 
the meat and bacon, with half a pint of 
water, two ounces of salt, three middle- 
sized onions, with two cloves in each, 
one turnip, a carrot, half a leek, and half 
a head of celery : put the cover upon 
the stewpan, which place over a sharp 
fire, occasionally stirring round its con- 
tents with a wooden spoon, until the 
bottom of the stewj-an is covered with a 
v.hits thickish glaze, which will lightly 
adhere to the spoon ; fill up the stewpan 
with cold water, and when upon the point 
of boiling, draw it to the corner of the 
fire, where it must gently simmer for 
three hours, carefully skimming off 
every particle of grease and scum ; pass 
your stock through a fine hair sieve, and 
it is ready for use when required. 

The above will make a delicious broth 
for all kinds of clear soups, and of course 
for thick soups or pureos ; by boiling it 
rather faster abou'^ five minutes before 
passing, you will be better enabled to 
take off every particle of grease from 
the surfiice. In making a stock of beef 
proceed as above, but allow double the 
time to simmer ; mutton or lamb, if any 
trimmings, might also be used ; if beef, 
usi seven pounds; if mutton, eight; or 



lamb, seven ; of course bones are all in- 
cluded ; with care, this broth would be 
quite clear. To give a little color, as 
required for all clear soups, use a little 
brown gravy or bi owning, but never at- 
tempt to brown it by letting it color at 
the bottom of the stewpan, for in that 
case you would destroy the greater part 
of the osmazome. 

5. ANOTHRR WAY, MORE ECONOMICAL. 

Instead of cutting up the knuckle of 
veal so small, cut it in four or five pieces 
only, and leave the bacon in one piece ; 
then, when the broth is passed, take out 
the veal, which is ver}' excellent served 
with a little of the broth for gravj^, and 
the bacon with a few greens upon another 
dish. This is as I always eat it myself; 
but some per-sons ma}^ probably prefer a 
little parsley and butter sauce or piquant 
sauce, served with it. Should any of the 
veal be left until cold, it might be cut 
into thin slices, and gradually warmed 
in either of the before-mentioned sauces. 
Should you make your stock from the 
leg or shin of beef, stew it double the 
time, preserve the vegetables boiled in 
the stock, and serve with beef, or serve 
the beef with some nice sharp sauce 
over ; the remainder, if cold, may also 
be hashed in the ordinary way. If of 
mutton, and you have used the scrags of 
the neck, the bi-east, head, or the chump 
of the loin, keep them in as large pieces 
as possible ; and, when done, serve with 
a few mashed turnips, and caper sauce, 
separately ; if any remaining until cold, 
mince it. Lamb would be seldom used 
for stock, being much too expensive ; but 
in case of an abundance, which may 
sometimes happen in the country, pro- 
ceed the same as for mutton. 

G. soyer's BROWN GRAVIES. 

Rub an ounce of butter over the bot- 
tom of a stewpan capable of holding 
about three quarts ; have ready peeled 



MEAT SOUPS. 



159 



four onions, cut them into thick slices, 
with which cover the bottom of the 
stewpan; over these laj^ about three 
pounds of beef from the leg or shin, 
cut into thin slices, with the bone chop- 
ped very small ; add a small carrot, a 
turnip cut in slices, and a couple of 
cloves ; set the stewpan upon a gentle 
fire for ten minutes, shaking it round 
occasionally to prevent burning; after 
which let it go upon a slow fire for up- 
wards of an hour, until the bottom is 
covered with a blackish glaze, but not 
burnt; when properly done, and ready 
for filling up, you will perceive the fat 
that runs from the meat quite clear ; fill 
up the stewpan with cold water, add a 
teaspoonful of salt ; and when upon the 
point of boiling, set it on a corner of the 
fire, where let it simmer gently ab»ut an 
hour, skimming off all the fat and scum 
wliich may rise to the surface; when 
done pass it through a fine sieve into a 
basin, and put by to use for the follow- 
ing purposes : — For every kind of roast 
meat, poultry, or game especially ; also, 
to give a good color to soups and sauces. 
This gravy will keep several days, by 
boiling it every other day. Although 
beef is the most proper meat for the 
above purpose, it may be made of veal, 
mutton, lamb, or even with fresh pork, 
rabbits, or poultry. 

7.— SOTER'S GLAZE 

Is an almost indispensable article in a 
cuisine hourgcoise, and should be kept by 
all persons in the middle classes of fife, 
the advantage being that it will keep for 
months together, is very simple to make, 
and is always useful in cookery, however 
humble ; in fact, with it you can dress 
a very good dinner with very little 
trouble. 

Make a stock omitting the salt, which, 
when done, pass through a cloth into a 
basin ; then fill the stewpan up a second 
time with hot water, and let it boil four 



hours longer to obtain all the succulence 
from the meat, then pass it through a 
cloth the same as the first ; then pour 
both stocks in a large stewpan together, 
set it over the fire, and let it boil as fast 
as possible, leaving a large spoon in, to 
stir occasionally and prevent its boiling 
over ; reduced to about three pints, pour 
it into a smaller stewpan, set again to 
boil at the corner, skimming well if re- 
quired ; when reduced to a quart, place 
it quite over the fire, well stirring with 
a wooden spoon until forming a thick ish 
glaze (which will adhere to the spoon) 
of a fine yellowish-brown color : pour it 
into a basin, or, if for keeping any time, 
into a long bladder, from which cut a 
slice and use where directed. 

a-BEOWNING FOR SOUPS. 
Take two ounces of coarse brown 
sugar, and pour upon it some thyme 
water ; place it on the fire till it becomes 
burnt. Or, take two ounces of powdered 
lump-sugar, and half an ounce of fresh 
butter ; put them together in a frying- 
pan, and keep on the fire till the mixture 
becomes a chocolate brown, then add 
three table -spoonfuls of port wine, and 
two wine-glassfuls of elder wine, six 
shalots. half a dram of mace, a dram of 
allspice, a dram of black pepper, half an 
ounce of salt, two ounces of ketchup, 
and an ounce of fresh lemon juice. Boil 
all together, let the liquor stand to set- 
tle, pour ofi" the clear liquor, bottle, and 
cork tight. Or, take some sugar, white 
or brown, place it in an iron spoon, heat 
until liquid, and then drop into half a 
pint of water; repeat until suflBciently 
brown. 

9. — PORTABLE SOUP. 

There are many advantages connected 
with this soup, which will present them- 
selves . to the lady housekeeper, its con- 
stant readiness for use, its forming an 
excellent stock for gravies, sauces, or 



160 



THE PKACTICAL H0U8EKEEPEK. 



poups ; a few minutss will suflBce to make 
a basin of soup from it. 

Take three pounds of beef, a shin of 
beef, the bones of which break, a cow- 
heel and two small knuckles of veal, put 
them in a st§wpan and add as much 
water as will barely cover them, put in 
three onions and seasoning to taste, stew 
the meat to I'ibbons. strain and then put 
it in the coldest place you can command, 
when thoroughly cold take off the fat 
and boil it fast in a stewpan without the 
lid on a quick fire, let it boil and keep it 
stirred for at least eight hours, pour it 
into a pan and let it stand twenty-four 
hours, then take your largest lip-basin 
and turn the soup into it, boil sufficient 
water in the stewpan to reach as high 
outside the basin which is placed in it as 
the soup is inside, but do not let any 
bubble into the basin, keep the water 
boiling until the water is reduced to a 
good consistency ; it will be then done ; 
it should then be poured into small jelly 
pots, or m saucers, so as to form cakes 
when cold, and is best preserved in tin 
C£inist<irs put in dry cool places. 

This soup may receive various flavors 
of herbs or any thing else, by boiling 
the herbs or other ingredients, and strain- 
ing the simples noted through water, 
making it boil, and then melting the soup 
in it. 



10. 



-WHITE STOCK. 



Take scrag or knuckle of veal, ox-heel, 
or calf 's head, together with an old fowl 
and the trimmings of any white poultry 
or game which can be had, and lean ham 
in the proportion of one pound to every 
fourteen pounds of meat. Cut it all into 
pieces (add three or four large M?iroasted 
onions and heads of celery, with a few 
blades of mace; but neither carrots, pepper, 
nor spice of any kind but mace) ; put it 
into a stock-pot with just water enough to 
cover it : let it boil, and add three onions 



and a few blades of mace ; let it boil for 
five hours, and it is then fit for use. . 

11.— WHITE PORTABLE SOUP. 

Procure as fine a leg of veal as can be 
obtained, bone it, remove the whole of 
the skin and fat, chop in pieces two 
dozeii fowls' feet, wash them well, put 
them into a large iron kettle with three 
gallons of water, stew until the meat is 
tender enough to separate, cover down 
close and stew for eight hours, take a 
tea-cup and fill it with the soup ; set it 
where it can quickly cool. If when cold it 
is hard enough to cut with a knife, strain 
through a sieve and remove all the fat, 
pour into cups the clear jelly, put them 
into a stewpan with boiling water until 
they are like glue ; let them cool, and 
when nearly cold run a ring round them 
and turn them on to a piece of new flan- 
nel ; it will draw all the moisture out of 
them ; turn them in seven hours and con- 
tinue until they are quite hard. Put 
them in tin canisters in a dry place. 

When any is required, cut a piece 
about the size of a walnut, pour a pint 
of boiling water upon it, stir until the 
soup is dissolved, season with salt, it will 
make a basin of strong broth ; if for soup 
steep some vermicelli in water ; boil it ; 
then to one cake of the soup pour one 
pint of water. If two quarts or four pints 
of soup are required, take four cakes of 
the soup, and when melted set it over the 
fire and simmer, pour it into a soup 
tureen, add thin sUces of bread very 
lightly toasted, and upon them the ver- 
micelli ; season to palate. 

13.— TRANSPARENT SOUP. 
Cut the meat from a leg of veal in slices 
as thin as possible, break the bone as 
small as possible, put the meat into a very 
large jar and the bones at the top, with 
a bunch of sweet herbs, a quarter of an 
ounce of mace, four ounces of blanched 
garden almonds beat fine ; pour upon it a 



MEAT SOUPS. 



161 



gallon of boiling water, let it simmer 
over a slow fire twelve hours, — all night 
is best ; turn it into a donble-bottomed 
tin saucepan, simmer until reduced to 
two quarts, remove the scum as it rises, 
strain it and let it stand two hours, pour 
into a saucepan, taking care not to let 
any of the sediment accompany it. 

Steep two ounces of vermicelli in water, 
boil it and put it in the soup before serv- 
ing up. 

18.— SOUP ITALIENNE. 
Cut the meat from a knuckle of veal, 
break up the bones and make a broth of 
them, cut half a pound of ham in slices 
and lay them at the bottom of a stewpan ; 
upon them the meat from the knuckle of 
veal, with the slices of four carrots, four 
turnips, a dozen peppercorns, two blades 
of mace, a large onion, and a head of 
celery ; cover down close ; stew till the 
gravy is drawn out and the roots are 
quite tender, pour over them the broth 
made from the bone of the knuckle until 
they are covered, add six spoohfuls of 
rice, stew four hours, work the soup 
through a sieve, add vermicelli before 
serving;. 



14.— POT-AU-FEU. 

This is by far the most wholesome of 
all soups. Take three pounds of good 
rump of beef, of any part free from bone 
and not too fat ; put it into an earthen 
fire-proof pot, with three quarts of water, 
one large carrot, two turnips, two leeks, 
a head of celery, and one burnt onion ; 
season, and let the soup boil slowly, 
skimming it from time to time, for at 
least five hours ; then strain it through 
a fine sieve, and pour it over thin slices 
of bread to serve. The meat and vege- 
tables make a dish which is afterwards 
served. Thus cooked, the beef becomes 
tender and juicy, and is excellent cold. 



15-- OCHEA SOUP. 

Put on six pounds of fresh beef— al- 
lowing a little less " than a quart of water 
to each pound ; after it has boiled an 
hour add two quarts of ochras minced 
fine as possible. Afterwards a dozen of 
ripe tomatoes pared and cut up, with two 
turnips, a few Lima beans, herbs, and 
other seasoning. The ochras should be 
dissolved. Strain and serve it with 
toasted bread cut into slices, put in after 
it comes out of the pot. 

The soup may be made in winter of 
dried ochras. 

16.— PEPPER POT. 

Put four cow's feet and four pounds 
of tripe to boil with water to cover them 
and a little salt. "When simmered to 
pieces, take them out, and skim and 
strain the liquor. Cut up the tripe, put 
it in the pot, and pour the liquor over 
it. Add sliced onions and potatoes and 
herbs, also small dumplings made with 
flour and butter, and season with pepper 
and salt. A little butter rolled in flour 
is an improvement. When done, serve 
in a tureen. 

17.— WHITE SOUP. 
Take a knuckle of veal, separated into 
three or foui- pieces, a slice of ham as 
lean as possible, a few onions, thyme, 
cloves, and mace, stew twelve or four- 
teen hours ; an old fowl will make it 
much richer if added. This soup must 
be made the day before it is required ; 
when removed from the fire, after being 
sufficiently stewed, let it cool ; and then 
remove the fat ; add to it four ounces of 
pounded blanched almonds, let it boil 
slowly, thicken it with half a pint of 
cream and an egg ; it should boil slowly 
for half an hour, and then be served. 

18.— GRAVY SOUP. 

Take a leg of beef and well wash and 
soak itj break the bone and put it into a 



162 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



saucepan with a gallon of water, a large 
bunch of sweet herbs, two large onions 
sliced and fried to a nice brown, taking 
great care the}^ are not burnt, two blades 
of mace, three cloves, twenty berries of 
allspice, and forty of black pepper, stew 
till the soup is as rich as you wish it to 
be, then take out the meat. When it is 
cold take off the fat, heat the soup with 
vermicelli, and the nicest part of a head 
of celery boiled and cut to pieces, cay- 
enne, and a little salt ; carrot may be 
added with turnip cut into small pieces 
and boiled with spinach and endive, or 
the herbs without the vermicelli, or ver- 
micelli only ; add also a large spoonful of 
soy and one of mushroom ketchup ; a 
French roll should be made hot and put 
into the soup. 

19.— JENNY LIND'S SOUP. 

Soyer sa3rs : This is the soup invented 
and often partaken of by the celebrated 
cantatrice of the name it bears, who par- 
took of it every day when on a visit to 
the talented authoress, Mrs. Anna Ma- 
ria Hall, who was kind enough to for- 
ward it to me for this edition. 

Make about three quarts of stock, 
which strain through a fine sieve into 
a middle-size stewpan ; set it to boil ; 
add to it three ounces of sago; boil 
gently twenty minutes ; skim ; just pre- 
vious to serving break four fresh eggs, 
and place the yolk, entirely free from 
the white, into a basin, beat them well 
with a spoon ; add to it a gill of 
cream ; take the pan from the fire, pour 
in the yolks, stir quickly for one minute, 
serve immediately ; do not let it boil, or 
it will curdle, and would not be fit to be 
partaken of. The stock being previously 
seasoned, it only requiies the addition 
of half a tea^poonful of sugar, a little 
more salt, pepper, nutmeg ; also thyme, 
parsley, and bay- leaf will agreeably vary 
the flavor without interfering with the 
quality. 



20.— HAEICO SOUP. 
Cut some mutton cutlets from the 
neck ; trim and fry them of a light 
bi'own ; stew in brown gravy soup till 
tender. Have ready some carrots, tur- 
nips, celery, and onions ; frj^ them m 
butter for some time, and clear the soup 
from the fat; then add the vegetables, 
color it, and thicken it with butter and 
flour ; season, and add to it a little port 
wine and ketchup. If the gravy be 
ready, the soup will require no more 
time to prepare than may be necessary 
to render the chops and vegetables ten- 
der, and is an excellent family dish. If 
wanted to be made more highly flavored, 
put in a little curry-powder. 

21.— FKENCH POT-AU-FEU. 

Out of this earthen pot comes the fa- 
vorite soup and bouilli, which has-been 
everlastingly famed as having been the 
support of sevei'al generations of all 
classes of society in France ; from the 
opulent to the poorest individuals, all 
pay tribute to its excellence and worth. 
In fact, this soup and bouilli is to the 
Fi'ench what the roast beef and plum- 
pudding are on a Sunday to the English. 
No dinner in France is served without 
soup, and no good soup is supposed to be 
made without the pot-au-feu. The fol- 
lowing is the receipt : — 

Put in the pot-au-feu six pounds of 
beef, four quarts of water, set near the 
fire, skim ; when nearly boiling, add a 
spoonful and a half of salt, half a pound 
of liver, two carrots, four turnips, eight 
young or two old leeks, one head of 
celery, two onions and one burnt, with a 
clove in each, and a piece of jjarsnip ; 
skim again, and let simmer four or five 
hours, adding a little cold water now and 
then ; take off part of the fat ; put slices 
of bread into the tureen, lay half the 
vegetables over, and half the broth, and 
serve the meat separately with the veg- 
etables around. The remainder of the 



MEAT SOUPS. 



163 



broth from the pot-au-feu may be used 
for any kind of soup instead of the stock. 
The best part of the beef for the pot- 
au-feu is the mouse-buttock, tops of the 
ribs, clod and stickings. 

22— WHITE SOUP. 

Take a large scrag or a knuckle of 
veal, and one-half pound of lean ham ; 
some blades of mace and a piece of un- 
grated nutmeg, sliced onions, and heads 
of celery, with a little salt and an equal 
quantity of loaf-sugar. Break the bones, 
and stew all gently with one gallon to 
six quarts of water — according to the 
weight of the meat — until it is done to 
rags and the soup becomes suflBciently 
strong : skim it, and strain it through a 
hair sieve ; or, if allowed to stand dur- 
ing the night, pour it into an earthen 
vessel, and next morning take off the 
fiit. When preparing it for table, add to 
the liquor from one -quarter to one-half 
pound of sweet almonds, blanched and 
finely pounded ; boil a short time and 
strain again ; then put in one-half pint 
to a pint of good thick cream, and the 
yolk of an egg ; but when the cream and 
egg are put in, be careful not to let the 
soup boil, or it will curdle. The safest 
way to avoid this is to mix the cream 
and egg in the tureen and pour the soup 
upon it. This in French cookery is 
called '■'■Liaison.'''' 

23— EICE AND MEAT SOUP. 

Put a pound of rice and a little pepper 
and broth herbs into two quarts of water ; 
cover them close, and simmer very soft- 
ly ; put in a little cinnamon, two pounds 
of good ox-cheek, and boil the whole till 
the juices are incorporated into the 
liquor. 

24— OX-TAIL SOUP. 
Two ox-tails, if properly stewed, with 
a couple of pounds of gravy beef and a 
bone of ham, will make an excellent 



soup. Cut the tails into joints, and boil 
very gently for several hours in a suffi- 
cient quantity of water, with the beef 
and ham, carrots, turnips, and celery, 
two or three onions, a piece of crust of 
bread, a bunch of s\\ eet herbs, a clove or 
two, and some peppercorns. Take out 
the tails when tendei-, and let the beef, 
&c., boil four hours longer, then strain 
the liquor, and remove the fat in the 
same manner as for clear gravy soup. 
If made without ham bones, or other 
flavoring ingredients, it will require the 
addition of a little ketchup, or some 
of the prepared sauces, and a glass of 
wine, with a moderate quantity of cay- 
enne. Add the tails and some pieces of 
carrot and turnip cut into fancy shapes. 

When thickened ox-tail soup is pre- 
ferred, proceed in the same manner as 
above, and thicken the broth with brown 



25.— 30UP A LA FPvANQAISE. 

Place in the stewpan six pounds of 
beef, add a few small veal bones, or one 
about a pound weight, add a couple of 
fowls' heads, and a small piece of calf's 
liver ; ^ove^ with four quarts of water ; 
when it boils remove the scum, add three 
or four leeks, a couple of turnips, a head ot 
celery, a burnt onion, a large carrot, salt, 
and simmer slowly seven hours ; let every 
particle of scum be removed, serve with 
sippets of bread in the soup. 

26.— TO MAKE FAMILY SOUP. 

Take a shin or leg of beef, that has 
been newly killed ; the fore-leg is best, 
as there is the most meat on it. Have 
it cut into three pieces, and wash it 
well. To each pound allow somewhat 
less than a quart of water ; to ten pounds 
of the leg, two gallons of water. Put it 
into a large pot, and add half a table- 
spoonful of salt. Hang it over a good 
fire, full eight hours before you dine. 
When it has come to a hard boil, and the 



164 



THE PRACTICAL H0TJ8EKEEPEE. 



scum has risen (which it will do as soon 
as it has boiled), skim it well ; then set 
it on hot coals in the corner, and keep it 
simmering steadily, so as to continue a 
regular heat. 

About three hours afterwards, put in 
a couple of heads of celery, four carrots 
cut small, and as many onions sliced and 
fried, with either a very small head of 
cabbage cut into little pieces, or a large 
one whole, if to be eaten with the meat, 
or, if you have any objection to cabbage, 
substitute a larger proportion of the 
other vegetables, or else tomatoes instead. 
Put also in a bunch of herbs, tied up in 
a thin muslin rag to prevent its floating 
on the surface. It will require at least 
eight hours' cooking ; remembering to 
put in the vegetables three hours after 
the meat, and the turnips only half an 
hour before it is done. If you wish to 
send any portion of the meat to table, 
take the best part of it out of the soup 
about two hours before dinner ; let the 
remainder be left in the pot till you send 
up the soup, as by that time it will be 
boiled to rags, and have transferred all 
its flavor to the liquid, and must be 
strained. 

Next day, take what is left of the 
soup ; put it into a pot, and simmer it 
over hot coals for half an hour ; a longer 
time will weaken the taste. If it has 
been well made, and kept in a cool place, 
it will be found better the second day 
than the first. 

If your family is very small, and the 
leg of beef large, it may furnish soup for 
several successive days. Half the leg 
may therefore be sufiicient, previously 
breaking to pieces all the bones with a 
mallet or kitchen cleaver, which, by 
causing them to give out their marrow, 
will greatly enrich the soup. 

Or : — When a large quantity of any 
butcher's meat is brought in for the use 
of the family, the joints will require 
trimming : take all the parings, adding 



a slice or two of bacon, beef or mutton 
bones, with an old fowl, or a rabbit, if 
you have one, turnip, and all sorts of ve- 
getables, onions, herbs, a few slices of 
carrot, ketchup, pepper, salt, &c. ; put a 
piece of butter at the bottom of the pan, 
cover it closely, and put it over a slow 
fire for a few minutes, shaking the sauce- 
pan occasionally. Then pour in boiling- 
water, and let it stew until it is rich ; 
apportioning the water to the quantity 
of meat. If there be any solid portion of 
beef, of which the soup is made, let it be 
taken out previous to the meat being 
" done to rags," and sent up along with 
the roots in some of the liquor, thickened 
and flavored with any piquant sauce : it 
will form an excellent .>tew. 

These receipts also, are for the standing 
household dish so well known in France 
as the pot-au-feu. 

Cheap and wholesome potages, in 
common use among the middling classes 
in various parts of Europe, are also made 
in different modes, a few of which are 
these : — 

27,— COTTAGE SOUP. 
Take two pounds of lean beef, cut into 
small pieces, with one-fourth of a pound of 
bacon, two pounds of meally potatoes, 
three ounces of rice, carrots, turnips, and 
onions sliced, or leeks and cabbage. Fry 
the meat, cabbage, and onions in butter 
or dripping, the latter being the most 
savory ; and put them into a gallon of 
water, to stew gently over a slow fire for 
three hours, putting in the carrots at the 
same time, but the turnips and rice only 
time enough to allow of their being well 
done ; and mashing the potatoes, whichv 
should be then passed through a colander : 
season only with pepper and salt : keep 
the vessel closely covered. It will make 
five pints of excellent soup at the cost of 
about one shilling and eight pence. 

28,— SCOTCH KAIL 

Is chiefly made of mutton, either fresh 



MEAT SOTJPS, 



165 



or salted ; beef is only used when mutton 
cannot conveniently be had. Three or 
four pounds of meat should be put into a 
gallon of cold water, along with a moder 
ate quantity of pearl-barley, with leeks 
or onions, and allowed to stew until ten- 
der ; if salted, put the meat into water 
over night, changing- it once before boil- 
ing. Then have ready the hearts of two 
cabbages cut small, or greens, if cabbages 
are not in season ; put them into the 
broth, which must be allowed to boil Up 
uncovered until reduced to two quarts. 
It should only be seasoned with pepper 
and salt ; but will be much improved by 
the addition of a couple of onions fried in 
butter ; indeed, both carrots and turnips 
are also sometimes used, but their addi- 
tion deprives the soup of the title of 
" Kail," whieh is derived from the greens 
which are usually employed. 

The meat is served with the soup, and, 
in like manner as the olla of the Span- 
iards, or the pot aufeti of the French, is 
the standing household dish among the 
middle classes of Scotland. 

29.— COCK-A-LEEKIE— 

Or as in Scotland called " cocky-leeky " 
— is there also a very ancient dish, and 
is recorded to have been a special favorite 
of James I. It is made thus : — 

Stew a large fowl, a marrow-bone, and 
two or three pounds of beef, with two or 
three Scotch pints (four to six quarts) 
of water, and the white ends of two or 
three dozen of leeks, cut in pieces. Just 
before serving, add half a pound of prunes, 
Avhich dish with the soup and the fowl ; 
but not the meat or marrow-bone, which, 
when put to boil, must be divided, and 
left uncovered. 

Or : — Put seven pounds of the upper 
end of a leg of beef, and an old fowl, in a 
pot, with water enough to cover it, the 
white parts of two or three dozen of 
leeks, half-boiled and sliced, and one 
pound of prunes. Stew till the meat be 
11 



tender, skimming it well, and, if you 
choose, the fowl may be disjointed and 
sent up in the soup. The leeks should 
be blanched, and as many used as to 
thicken the soup ; but no other season- 
ing is usually employed than salt and 
allspice, with a small quantity of mace. 

30.— SAGO SOUP. 
Take three pounds of lean beef, a slice 
of lean ham, and lay them in a stewpan 
with a lump of butter, draw the gravy 
gently, add two quarts of water, and a 
sliced onion which has been browned by 
frying in fresh butter, add a bunch of 
sweet herbs, six cloves, a blade of mace, 
a teaspoonful of allspice, and one of black 
pepper whole, stew until the soup is rich 
and brown, then remove the meat and 
strain the soup clear, put it into a clean 
stewpan, thicken it to a good consistency 
with sago. 

31.— SHEEP'S HEAD SOUP. 

Have the head carefully cleaned, put 
it into a stewpan with a little water, and 
when it is heated through fill up the pot. 
"When it is sufHciently tender, take it up, 
remove the meat from the bones, and 
return the bones into the broth, adding 
onion, sweet herbs. &c., as before direct- 
ed. The head and trotters may also be 
put with some vegetables into an earthen 
jug, containing half a gallon of water ; 
cover it close up, and bake it ; either cut 
the meat from the bones, when sufficient- 
ly tender, and put it in small pieces into 
the soup, or serve up the head and trot- 
ters separately, either whole or with the 
meat cut off and made into a stew. 

In Scotland, the head is usually singed 
with a red-hot iron to remove the wool, 
but without burning or otherwise injur- 
ing the skin. The head is then soaked 
during the night, washed, scraped, and 
spht ; the brains taken out, and either 
fried or made into forcemeat balls, and 
the head stewed in the broth till tender. 



166 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



82.— SOTEK'S MULLIGATAWNY SOUP. 

Cut up a small knuckle of veal, which 
put into a stewpan, with a piece of butter, 
half a pound of lean ham, a carrot, a tur- 
nip, three onions, and six app'es, add half 
a pint of water ; set the stewpan over a 
sharp fire, moving the meat round occa- 
sionally, let it remain until the bottom 
of the stewpan is Covered with a brown- 
ish glaze, then add three tablespoonsful 
of curry powder, one of curry paste, and 
half a pound of flour ; stir well in, and fill 
the stewpan with a gallon of water ; add 
a spoonful of salt, the half of one of su- 
gar ; when boiling, place it at the corner 
of the fire, and let it simmer two hours 
and a half, skimming off" all the fat as it 
rises, then pass it through a tammy into 
a tureen; trim some of the pieces of veal, 
and put it back in the stewpan to boil, 
and serve with plain boiled rice sepa- 
rate. Ox-tails or pieces of rabbits, chick- 
ens, &c., lefc fiom a previous dinner, may 
be served in it instead of the veal. The 
veal is exceedingly good to eat. Taste, 
before serving, if quite palatable. 

33.— SCOTCH BEOTH. 
Set on the fire four ounces of pearl- 
barley, with three Scotch pints (or six 
quarts) of salt water ; when it boils skim 
it, and add what quantity of salt beef or 
fresh brisket you choose, and a marrow- 
bone or a fowl, with a couple of pounds 
of either lean beef or mutton, and a good 
quantity of leeks, cabbages, or savoys ; 
or you may use turnips, onions, and gra- 
ted carrots. Keep it boiling for at least 
four or five hours ; but if a fowl be used, 
let it not be put in till just time enough 
to bring it to table when well done, for 
it must be served up separately. 

Or : — -Take the chops from a neck of 
mutton ; cut the remainder up in small 
pieces, and let it stew the whole day. 
Take also a breakfast cup of Scotch bar- 
ley, and boil it in water till it gets dry ; 



then chop fine two large onions and tur- 
nips, which put with the barley and chops 
into a close stewpan, strain the stock into 
it, let it boil one and a half hours and 
skim it well, seasoning it only with salt 
and black pepper. This will make a 
large tureen of broth, besides preserving 
the chops for the table. 

34— HOTCn POTCH. 

Take any quantity of lamb chops, pare 
off the skin and greater part of the fat, 
trim the bones, cut the smaller end of the 
chops into pieces, and lay them along with 
the chops put in whole in a stewpan in 
this manner : — A layer of chops at the 
bottom, covered with every kind of vege- 
taljle cut into small pieces — onions, celery, 
lettuce, carrots, turnips, and green peas ; 
then put on a layer of chops, and so on 
with the vegetables until the whole are 
added ; cover the ingredients with water, 
and let it stew several hours very gently, 
until both the meat and vegetables be- 
come tender, and the soup thick. 

Scotch Hotcli Potch is made in the same 
manner, only that both beef and mutton 
are indiscriminately used, and minced in- 
stead of being left in chops. 

35.— PEPPEE-POT HOTCH POTCH. 

To three quarts of water put vegeta- 
bles according to the season. In summer, 
peas. French beans, cauliflowers, lettuce, 
and spinach ; in winter, beet-root and en- 
dive,* carrots, turnips, celery, and onions 
in both, all cut small ; and stew with 
two pounds of neck of mutton, or a fowl 
and one pound of pickled pork, in three 
quarts of water, till quite tender. 

On first boiling, skim. Half an hour 
before serving, add a lobster or crab 
cleared from the bones. Season with 
salt and caj'enne. A small quantity of 
rice should be put in with the meat. 

* If endive be used, it should, however, be boiled 
in two or three waters to take off its bitterness. 



MEAT SOUPS. 



167 



Some people choose very small suet 
dumplings boiled with it. Should any 
fat rise, skim nicely, and put one-half a 
cup of water with a little flour. 

It may be made of various things, 
using a due proportion of fish, flesh, fowl, 
vegetables and pulse. In the West In- 
dies it is the universal dish of the colored 
people ; but seasoned so higUy with 
green capsicums and peppers, that it is 
there called " pepper-pot." 

86.— SOtJP A LA SAP. 

Divide a pound of beef into thin slices, 
grate half a pound of potatoes and put 
them in three quarts of water, add an 
onion, a pint of grey peas and three ounces 
of rice ; reduce it by boiling to five pints ; 
cut two heads of celery and put them 
into the stewpan, pour upon them the 
five pints of soup and pulp the boiled 
peas into it through a fine tammy or 
coarse cloth. Stew until it is quite tender, 
season with pepper and salt, and serve up 
with fried bread cut in dice. 

87.— HESSIAN SOUP. 

Cut into slices three pounds of shin of 
beef, lay it in a stewpan, put in three 
onions, five carrots, eight potatoes, a pint 
and a quarter of split peas, three heads of 
celery, some whole pepper, salt ; pour in 
by degrees seven quarts of water, stew 
until reduced to half. If the soup alone 
be required strain off the vegetables, if 
not, serve as cooked. 

88.— SOUP A LA PvEINE VICTORIA 
Take a pound and a half of lean veal, 
place it in a stewpan with a shoe of bacon, 
which must not be fat, an onion with one 
clove, a blade of mace, a -head of celery, 
a handful of sweet herbs, four ounces of 
fresh butter, and some whole white pep- 
per ; set it over a clear fire, move it fre- 
quently to prevent burning, or the flavor 
is ruined. Have some white gravy ready, 



thicken it, add two quarts to the above 
ingredients with a few strips of mush- 
rooms ; let it boil, and when it reaches 
that point remove it ; skim it clean of all 
scum or fat. Have ready some vermicelli 
which has been soaked five minutes in 
cold water and subsequently stewed in a 
strong broth ; strain on it the soup and 
serve with blanched chervil leaves in it. 



39.— MULLIGATAWNET SOUP. (ENGLISH.) 

A calf's head divided, well cleaned, 
place with a cow-heel in a well tinned 
saucepan ; boil them till tender, let them 
cool, cut the meat from the bones in 
slices, and fry them in butter ; stew the 
bones of the head and heel for some hours ; 
when well stewed, strain, let it get cold 
and remove the fat. When this is accom- 
plished cut four onions in slices, flour 
them, fry them in butter until brown, 
add a tablespoonful and a half of best 
curry powder obtainable, cayenne pepper, 
one teaspoonful with a little salt ; turme- 
ric powder sufBcient to fill a dessert 
spoon is sometimes added, but the im- 
provement is not manifest to a refined 
English palate, the curry powder being 
deemed all that is necessary ; add these 
last ingredients to the soup, boil gently 
for about an hour and a half, add two 
dessert spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce; 
serve. 

40.— SPRING SOUP 

May be made of a knuckle of veal — 
allowing a quart of water to each pound 
— with four calves feet, a little cold ham, 
or salt and cayenne, simmered slorcly for 
several hours. Add then, two quarts 
young green peas and a pint of asparagus 
tops, previously boiled with the juice of 
spinach and other green herbs or vegeta- 
bles, and a quarter of a pound of butter 
rolled in flour. — Boil up together, and 
serve. 



168 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



41.— SUMMER SOUP. 
Made of mutton neck or shoulder, sim- 
mered as above, in the same proportion 
of water, with sliced turnips, carrots and 
onions, a quart of Lima beans, and pars- 
ley, sweet marjoram and other herbs; 
green corn is an excellent addition late 
in summer, or cauliflower, and a few pick- 
led nasturtions ; also small dumplings, 
mixed with egg and butter ; simmer the 
vegetables till done. 

42.— AUTUMN SOUP. 

Take six pounds of lean, cut up, a quart 
of water to a gallon, add the hock of a 
ham, boil and skim it, and put in two 
quarts ochras, cut in small slices, an onion 
sliced, two quarts ripe tomatoes, cut up, 
one quart Lima beans ; simmer four hours 
slowly, add the green corn grated off 
eight ears, season the soup, and boil till 
the meat is in rags and the soup thorough- 
ly done. Dried ochras may be used in 
winter. 

43.— WINTER SOUP. 

Take a shin or leg of beef, cut in pieces, 
salt and let it stand all night ; next morn- 
ing put it on with water, a quart to a 
pound, season with salt, pepper and mace ; 
simmer and skim well. When boiling, 
put in a head of cabbage cut fine, twelve 
carrots sliced ; a bunch of sweet herbs 
and parsley; add six turnips and three 
potatoes, and an onion, all sliced ; skim 
ofi" the fat and simmer slowly till dinner 
time. 

44.— HOTCH POTCH. (English.) 

Put a pint of peas into a quart of wa- 
ter, boil them until they are so tender as 
easily to be pulped through a sieve. Take 
of the leanest end of a loin of mutton 
three pounds, cut it into chops, put it 
into a saucepan M'ith a gallon of water, 
four carrots, four turnips cut in small 
pieces ; season with pepper and salt. Boil 
until all the vegetables are quite tender, 
put in the pulped peas, a head of celery, 



and an onion sliced, boil fifteen minutes 
and serve. 

45.— MUTTON SOUP. 
Cut a neck of mutton into four piecesj 
put it aside, take a slice of the gammon 
of bacon and put it in a saucepan with a 
quart of peas, with enough water to boil 
them, let the peas boil to a pulp and 
strain th§ra through a cloth, put them 
aside, add enough water to that in which 
is the bacon to boil the mutton, slice 
three turnips, as many carrots, and boil 
for an hour slowly ; add sweet herbs, 
onions, cabbage, and lettuce chopped 
small, stew a quarter of an hour longer, 
sufiicient to cook the mutton, then take 
it out, take some fresh gi-een peas, add 
them with some chopped parsley and the 
peas first boiled, to the soup, put in a 
lump of butter rolled in flour, and stew 
till the green peas are done. 

461.— LAMB SOUP 

May be cooked as above, save that beef 
should be substituted for the bacon. 

47.— LEG OF BEEF BROTH. 

Take a leg of beef, break the bone in 
several places, place it in a pan with a 
gallon of water, remove the scum as it 
rises and add three blades of mace, a 
crust of bread, and a small bunch of pars- 
ley ; boil till the beef is tender ; toast 
some bread, cut it in diamonds, lay it in 
the bottom of the tureen, put the meat 
on it, and pour the broth over all. 

48.— VEAL BROTH. 

Stew a knuckle of veal ; draw gravy 
as for stock, add four quarts of water, 
with celery, parsley, and an onion ; sim- 
mer till reduced to half, add two or three 
ounces of rice, but not until the soup is 
nearly cooked, so that when served the 
rice may be no more than done. Ver- 
micelli may be used in preference, or foi 
a change. 



MEAT SOUPS. 



169 



49.— MUTTON BROTH. 

Three pounds of the scrag of mutton, 
put into two quarts of cold water ; add 
onion and turnips, pepper and salt, a 
few sweet herbs, and a little pearl bar- 
ley ; skim well, and boil four hours. 

These ingredients chiefly depend upon 
whether this dish is made for an invalid ; 
if so, the omission of any of the ingre- 
dients will be regulated according to the 
advice of the medical attendant. 



50.— BAKED SOUPS. 

Take a pound of any lean meat and cut 
it into dice, place in an earthen jar, or 
pot, that will hold five quarts of liquid. 
Slice, and add to it, two onions, two car- 
rots, two ounces of rice washed and pre- 
viously soaked, a pint of whole or split 
peas, and some pepper and salt to taste ; 
cover all with a gallon of water, tie a 
cloth over the top of the jar, or close 
the lid of the pot down very close, and 
bake. 

This is a cheap and useful soup for 
poor people, and may be much improved 
by using the liquor that salt beef, or in- 
deed, any meat has been boiled in, in- 
stead of water. 

Ghea'p—for the poor. — Soak a quart of 
split peas for a day in cold water, and 
then put them into a boiler with two gal- 
lons and a half of water, and two pounds 
of cold boiled potatoes, well ■ bruised, a 
faggot of herbs, salt, pepper, and two 
onions sliced. Cover it very close, and 
boil very gently for five hours, or until 
only two gallons of soup remain. 

Another. — Take two pounds of shin 
of beef, a quarter of a pound of barley, 
a half-penny worth of parsley, two on- 
ions sliced, salt and pepper to taste, and 
having cut the meat into dice, and bro- 
ken the bone, place in a gallon pot and 
fill up with water ; boil very gently for 
five hours. Potatoes, celery tops, cab- 



bage, or any vegetable left from the day 
before may be added. 

61.— SCOTCH BARLEY BROTH. 
Throw three-quarters of a pound ol 
Scotch barley into some clean water 
when thoroughly cleansed place it with 
a knuckle of veal in a stewpan, cover it 
with cold water, let it slowly reach a 
boil, keep it skimmed, add seven onions, 
and simmer for two hours ; skim again 
and add two heads of celery and two tur- 
nips cut in slices, or any shape it pleases 
the cook ; add as much salt as required 
to make it palatable, let it stew for an 
hour and a half; it must be well skimmed 
before the broth is dished; the meat 
must be previously removed and the 
broth alone sent to table. If it is intend- 
ed to send the veal to the table with it, 
dress it as follows : take two pints of the 
broth and put it into a stewpan over a 
clear fire, add two table-spoonfuls of 
flour to the broth, and keep the broth 
stirring as you shake it in until it boils ; 
add a little cayenne pepper, two table- 
spoonfuls of port, boil for two minutes, 
strain it over the veal and send to table. 

52.— GIBLET SOUP. 

Scald and clean thoroughly two sets of 
goose giblets or twice the number of 
duck giblets, cut them in pieces, put 
them in three quarts of stock ; if water 
is used instead of stock add a pound of 
gravy beef, a bunch of sweet herbs, a 
couple of onions, half a table-spoonful 
of whole white pepper, as much salt, and 
the peel of half a lemon ; cover all with 
water, stew, and when the gizzards are 
tender, strain the soup. 

Now put into a, stewpan a paste made 
of an ounce of butter and a spoonful of 
flour, stir it over the fire until brown, 
pour in the soup, let it boil, stirring it 
well all the while ; in ten minutes skim 
and strain it, add a glass of Madeira, a 



170 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



salt-spoonful of cayenne, a dessert-spoon- 
ful of mushroom ketchup, squeeze in 
the juioc of half a lemon, serve up with 
the piblets in the soup. It should be sent 
to table as hot as possible. 

53.— POTAGE A LA KEINE 
Is SO called from its having been said 
to be a favorite soup at the table of Her 
Majesty. 

Stew two or three young fowls for 
about an hour in good fresh-made veal 
broth : then take them out, skin them, 
and pound the breast, or only the white 
meat, in a mortar until it becomes quite 
smooth. That done, mash the yolks of 
thi-ee or four hard-boiled eggs with the 
crumb of a French roll soaked either in 
the broth or in milk, and mix this with 
the pounded meat to form a paste, which 
must be afterwards passed through a 
sieve. During this operation the bones 
and skin have been left stewing in the 
broth, which must then be strained, and 
the paste put gradually into it : tt.en 
let it boil briskly for a short time, stir- 
ring it all the while to ensure its thor- 
ough mixture. When that is done take 
it from the fire ; warm a pint or more of 
cream, and pour it gently into the soup. 
This being a delicate white soup, the 
broth should only be seasoned with salt 
and mace, nor should there be any other 
vegetable used than celery ; but the 
cream may be flavored with almonds. 

54— KICE SOUP. 
Take white stock, season it, and either 
whole rice boiled till very tender, or the 
flour of rice may be used ; one-half 
pound will be sufficient for two quarts 
of broth. 

55.— VEAL POTTAGE. 

Take off a knuckle of veal all the meat 
that can be made into cutlets, &c., and 



set the remainder on to stew, with an 
onion, a bunch of herbs, a blade of mace, 
some whole pepper, and five pints of 
water : cover it close ; and let it do on a 
slow fire, four or five hours at least. 
Strain it, and set it by till next day ; 
then take the fat and sediment from the 
jelly, and simmer it with either turnips, 
celery, sea-kale, and Jerusalem arti- 
chokes, or some of each, cut into small 
dice, till tender, seasoning it with salt and 
pepper. Before serving, rub down half a 
spoonful of flour with half a pine of good 
cream and .butter the size of a walnut, 
and boil a few minutes. Let a small roll 
simmer in the soup, and serve this with 
it. It should be as thick as middling 
cream, and, if thus made of the vegeta- 
bles above mentioned, will make a very 
delicate white pottage. The pottage may 
also be thickened with rice and pearl- 
barley ; or the veal may be minced, and 
served up in the tureen. 

56.— VEAL BROTH. 
Stew a knuckle of veal of four or five 
pounds in three quarts of water, with 
two blades of mace, an onion, a head of 
celery, and a Httle parsley, pepper, and 
salt ; let the whole siniuier very gently 
until the liquor is reduced to two quarts ; 
then take out the meat, when the mu- 
cilaginous parts are done, and serve it up 
with parsley and butter. Add to the 
broth either two ounces of rice sepa- 
rately boiled, or of vermicelli, put in only 
long enough to be stewed tender. Dish 
the knuckle separately, and serve it with 
parsley and butter. 

57.— MULL.\GATAWNEE. 
Slice some onions and a few shalots, 
put them in a mortar with half a pound 
of fresh butter, beat them well, add 
three or four dessert-sjjoonfuls of curry- 
powder, a little cayenne pepper and salt ; 
cut up some India pickle, which pound 



GAME 80UPS. 



171 



well with the other ingredients ; add flour 
sufficient to thicken the soup, and a little 
cold stock to work the whole into a stiff 
paste. When beaten moisten it occa- 
sionally with broth made from fresh beef 
free from fat ; when fine enough pass it 
through a sieve, add to it the gravy that 
the heart was stewed in, and as much 
of the beef broth as will make the quan- 
tity of soup required. Boil it up, and 
add more seasoning of cayenne and salt. 
If not thick enough, add flour and butter, 
until it becomes of the consistency of 
good cream. A spoonful of sugar and a 
little port wine are improvements. 

SOUPS OP GAME, POULTRY, &C. 
68.— VENISON SOUP. (EngUsh.) 

Take four pounds of freshly killed 
venison cut off from the bones, and one 
pound of ham in small slices. Add an 
onion minced, and black pepper to your 
taste. Put only as much water as will 
cover it, and stew it gently for an hour, 
keeping the pot closely covered. Then 
skim it well, and pour in a quart of boil- 
ing water. Add a head of celery cut into 
small pieces, and three blades of mace. 
Boil it gently two and a half hours ; then 
put in one fourth of a pound of butter, divi- 
ded into small pieces, and rolled in flour, 
and add half a pint of port or Madeira 
wine. Let it boil a quarter of an hour lon- 
ger, and send it to table with the meat in it. 

Or : — Take a breast of venison, cut it 
in small pieces, and stew it gently in 
brown gravy soup. Serve it with roots 
cut in dice and French beans in diamonds, 
adding two glasses of port wine when 
first put on. 

The head of the deer chopped in pieces, 
and the flesh stewed to a jelly, is also an 
excellent addition to the soup. 

59.— VENISON SOUP. 

Cut all the meat oflF a forequarfcer and 



shoulder of venison, put it into a pot 
with two gallons of water, a large onion, 
a head of celery, and some salt. Simmer 
it tery slowly for forty-eight hours. 
Break all the bones and put them in an 
earthen pot just covered with water ; add 
a little salt, cloves, mace, and red pepper. 
Place the pot in the oven, set in a larger 
vessel of water, and let them stew as 
long as the soup. 

Strain the soup clear, and add the 
juice of the bones. Color the soup with 
a little flour and a lump of butter as 
large as a walnut, browned in the frj-ing- 
pan. Boil it up quickly, and throw in 
half a pint of port wine. 

60.— TUETLE SOUP.* 

Hang up the turtle by the hind fins, 
cut off the head, and allow it to drain. 

Cut off the fore fins; separate the 
cailipash (upper shell) from the callipee 
(under sheU), beginning at the hind fins. 
Cut off the fat which will be found ad- 
hering to the cailipash and to the lean 
meat of the callipee. Then cut off the 
hind fins. Take off the lean meat from 
the callipee and from the fins, and cut it 
into pieces two inches square and put 
into a stewpan. The cailipash, callipee, 
and fins, must be held in scalding (not 
boiling) water for a few minutes, which 
will cause the shell to detach easily. 

Cut the cailipash and callipee into 
pieces six inches square, which put into 
a stock-pot with some light veal stock. 
Let it boil until the meat is tender, and 
then take it out into cold water ; free 
the meat from the bones, and cut it into 
pieces an inch square. Return the bones 
into the stock and let it boil gently for 
two hours, strain it ofi*, and it is then fit 
for use. 

Cut the fins across into pieces about 

* This receipt is a most excellent one, and is in con- 
stant use by the party who favored us with it ; and 
we may add, that some thousands of pounds weigJit 
of turtle pass through his hands every year. 



172 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



an inch wide, boil them in stock with an 
onion, two or three cloves, a fagot of pars- 
ley and thyme, a sprig of SNveet basil and 
marjoram. When tender take them out 
and add this stock to the other. 

Take tlie lean meat, put into a stew- 
pan with a pint of Madeira, four table- 
spoonfuls of chopped green shalots, two 
lemons sliced, a bunch of thyme, marjo- 
ram, and savory (about two tablespoon- 
fuls each when chopped), one and a half 
tablespconfuls of sweet basil (chopped), 
and four tablespoonfids of parsle3^ Pound 
together a nutmeg, one dozen allspice, 
one blade of mace, five or six cloves, one 
tablespoonful of pepper and of salt. Mix 
the whole togethei' with as much carry- 
poAvder as will lie on a shilling. Put 
about two-thirds of this to the lean meat, 
with half a pound of fresh butter and one 
quart stock. Let the whole be gently 
sweated until the meat is done. 

Take a large knuckle of ham, cut it into 
very small dice, put into a stewpan with 
four large onions sliced, six bay-leaves, 
three blades of mace, one dozen allspice, 
three-quarters of a pound of butter ; let 
it sweat until the onions are melted. 
Shred a small bunch of basil, a larger 
one of thyme, savory, and marjoram; throw 
these into the onions, and keep them as 
gieen as possible : when sweated sufiB- 
cientiy, add flour according to your judg- 
ment sufficient to thicken the soup. Add 
by degrees the stock in which the calli- 
pash and callipee were boiled, and the 
seasoning stock from the lean meat. Boil 
for an hour ; run through a tammy, and 
add salt, cayenne, and lemon juice to 
palate. Then put in the meat ; let it all 
boil gently about half an hour ; and if 
more wine be required, it must be boiled 
before being added to the soup. This is 
for a turtle of from forty to fifty pounds. 
It should, however, be recollected that 
the animal is of various weight — fi'om a 
chicken-turtle of forty pounds to some 
hundreds — and the condiments must be 



apportioned accordingly. It should in 
variably be made the day before it is 
wanted. 

61.— MOCK TURTLE. 

Half a calf's head will be quite suffi- 
cient, even if it be small, to provide soup 
enough for a moderate party, as it will 
fill a tureen of two quarts ; but it must 
be fresh aud U7isi?'ipped of the skin, 
which is the most gelatinous part. 

Take out the brains ; clean the head 
carefully in hot water, by squeezing it 
with the hand to press out the blood, 
and leave it afterwards for an hour in 
cold water. Then put it into five or six 
quarts of warm water along with two 
pounds of veal, two pounds of delicate 
pickled pork, chiefl}' fat, a roasted onion 
or two stuck full of cloves, and the thinly 
pared rind of a lemon, together with a 
lai-ge bundle of savory pot-herbs, two 
slices carrots, aud a head of celery. Let 
this boil for two hours ; then take up 
the head and the pork. The head must 
be stripped of its skin, and the brain, 
tongue, and eye taken out ; let the bones 
of the head be broken and returned to 
the soup, and boil two hours longer — the 
bi-ains being made into forcemeat balls, 
the tongue skinned and sliced ; the black 
part of the eye should also be taken out, 
and the remainder minced; the skin 
being cut into pieces of little more than 
an inch square. While the stock is boil- 
ing, put into a saucepan a small quan- 
tity of fresh butter, with some onions 
sliced thin, a little basil, marjoram, and 
parsley, a very small quantity of thyme, 
three bay-leaves, two blades of mace, a 
few allspice ; sweat all these well over 
the fire ; when done, add sufficient flour 
to thicken the soup. Stir in the boiling 
stock by degrees to avoid its being lumpy 
let it boil gently for an hour, then rub it 
through a tammy, set it over the fire ; 
when it boils add the meat. About ten 
minutes before you serve, season the soup 



GAME SOUPS. 



173 



to your taste with salt, a small quantity 
of cayenne pepper, a couple of spoonfuls 
of soy, a good squeeze of lemon-juice, to- 
gether with nearly a pint of either j\Iadei- 
ra or Sherry. Serve with two lemons 
upon a plate, cut in half, as some people 
like the soup to be somewhat acid. Mush- 
rooms are sometimes added. 

The soup will take at least seven or 
eight hours in preparation. A calf's head 
requires half its own weight of meat to 
make the broth of proper quality. 

62.— NEAT'S FEET SOUP. 

Take two neat's feet, cut them as you 
do a calf 's head : take five pints of any 
sort of broth, the juice and rind of one 
lemon, some parsley and herbs chopped 
fine ; send these to the oven ; when it 
comes from the oven, put in a pint of 
strong gravy and a cup of white wine, 
some hard eggs and forcemeat balls ; 
season with cayenne pepper and salt, 

To these an excellent addition will be 
found in one pound of the belly part of 
very delicate pickled pork; for it will 
improve the flavor of the soup, and, if 
cut neatly into bits, will taste nearly as 
rich, and quite as savory, as the fat of the 
head, or the gelatinous parts of the feet. 

Any of these receipts for mock turtle 
ma}- be also made from pig's face and 
pettitoes ; and in most country-hou.'^es, 
as well as at sea — where pigs are gener- 
ally kept for fresh meat — the head is 
commonly made into soup in imitation of 
turtle. 

It has become unfashionable among 
first-rate cooks to put those egg-lalls^ 
formerly so common, into mock-turtle ; 
but as they are still used by those of the 
old school, we here add their mode of 
preparation : — 

Take out the yolks of some hard-boiled 
eggs, and beat them in a mortar with 
a very little salt and cayenne, and make 
them into a paste with the white of a 
raw egg. Roll the paste into balls not 



larger than marbles, put them into the 
soup, and boil for ten minutes. 

68. -LA TOETUE— TURTLE SOUP. 
(Ude's Receipt, most carefully revised.)* 

This soup will be made with less diffi- 
culty if you cut off the head of the tur- 
tle the preceding day. 

In the morning open the turtle : which 
is done by leaning heavily with your knife 
on the shell of the animal's back, whilst 
you cut it ofi" all round. Turn it upright 
on its end, that all the water, &c., may 
run out. Then cut the flesh off along 
the spine, with your knife sloped towards 
the bones, for fear of touching the gall, 
which sometimes escapes the eye. When 
you have obtained all the flesh which is 
about the members, wash it clean and 
let it drain. 

Have ready a large vessel full of boil- 
ing water on the fire, put in the shells, 
and when you perceive that they come 
off easily, take them out of the water, 
and prick all the shells of the back, 
belly, fins, head, &c. Boil the back and 
belly till you can take off the bones, 
without, however, allowing the softer 
parts to be sufficiently done, as they 
must boil again in the sauce. When 
these latter come off easily, lay them, on 
earthen dishes singly, for fear they 
should stick together, and put them to 
cool. Keep the liquor in which 3'ou 
have blanched the softer parts, and let 
the bones stew thoroughly in it, as this 
liquor must be used to moisten the broth. 
All the flesh of the interior parts, the 
four legs and head, must be sweated in 
the following manner: — 

Lay a few slices of ham on the bottom 

* In perfecting the above receipt for turtle soup, 
which the author can without vanity assert, is the 
lient if not the only auihentio and practical one 
in i)rint, the author has bestowed his utmost care 
and attention. When in manuscript he obtained a 
very high price for it. 



174 



THE PRACTICAL H0U8EKEEPEE. 



of a very large stewpan. Lay over the 
ham two or three knuckles of veal, ac- 
cording to the size of the turtle, and over 
the veal the inside flesh of the turtle, 
and the members over the whole. Then 
partly moisten it with the water in which 
you have boiled the shell, and sweat it 
thoroughly. You can ascertain if the 
meat be thoroughly done, by thrusting 
your knife into the fleshy part of the 
meat. If no blood issue, moisten it 
again with the liquor in which the bones, 
&c., have been boiling: put in a large 
bunch of all such sweet herbs as are 
used in the cooking of a turtle: sweet 
ba'^il sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, 
winter savory, two or three bay-leaves, 
common thyme, a handful of parsley and 
green onions, and a large onion stucK 
with six cloves. Let the whole be thor- 
oughly done. Observe that you must 
only put in the bunch of parsley and the 
stalks of the herbs, as you must keep the 
tender part of the leaves to make a pur6e 
of herbs, to introduce in the sauce when 
finished. 

With respect to the members, probe 
them, to see whether they are done, and 
when done, drain and send them to the 
larder, as they are to make their appear- 
ance onlj^ when the sauce is absolutely 
completed. 

When the flesh is also completely done, 
drain it on the dish, and make a white 
thickening, very thin, for turtle soup 
must not be much thickened; when the 
flour is sufliciently done on a slow fire, 
and has a good color, moisten it with the 
liquor drained through a silk sieve, and 
turn the sauce over the fire till it boils. 

Ascertain that the sauce is neither too 
thick nor too thin, and then put the 
etewpan on the side of the stove, to skim 
off all the white scum, and all the fat and 
oil, that rise on the surface of the sauce. 
By this time all the softer parts will be 
cold enough ; cut them about an inch or 



two square, without waste, throw the 
whole into the sauce, which roust sim- 
mer gently. Then try them again ; for 
if done enough, they are not to be kept 
on the fire any longer. Skim off all the 
fat and froth. Take all the leaves of the 
herbs from the stalks, sweet basil, sweet 
marjoram, lemon thyme, winter savory, 
common thyme, a handful of parsley and 
green onions, and a large onion cut in 
four pieces, with a few leaves of mace ; 
put them in a stewpan, with about a 
quarter of a pound of fresh butter. Let 
this simmer on a slow fire, till they are 
quite melted, then pour in one bottle of 
good Madeira wine, adding a small bit of 
sugar, and let this boil gently for one 
hour. When done, rub this through a 
tammj'^, and put it into the sauce. Let 
this boil till no white scum rises : then 
take, with a skimmer, all the bits of tur- 
tle out of thfe sauce, and put them in a 
clean stewpan ; when you have all out, 
pour the saute over the bits of turtle, 
through a tammy, and proceed as fol- 
lows : — 

Make some quenelles a tortue (turtle 
quenelles), which being substitutes for 
eggs do not require to be very delicate. 
They are made in the following manner : 
Take out the fleshy part of a leg of veal, 
about one pound, scrape off all the meat, 
without leaving any sinews or fat, and 
soak in milk about the same quantity of 
crumbs of bread. When the bread is 
well soaked, squeeze it, and put it into a 
mortar with the veal, a small quantity 
of calf's udder, a little butter, the yolks 
of four eggs boiled hard, a little cayenne 
pepper, salt, and spices, and pound the 
whole very fine. Then thicken the mix- 
ture with two whole eggs, and the yolk 
of another. 

Next try this farce or stufiBng in boil- 
ing hot water, to ascertain its consisten- 
cy ; if you find it too thin, add the yolk 
of an egg. When the stuflBng is perfect- 



GAME SOUPS. 



175 



ed, take half of it, and put into it some 
chopped parsley. Let the whole cool, in 
order to roll it of the 'size of the yolk of 
an egg or smaller: poach it in salt and 
boiling water, and when very hard drain 
on a sieve, a^id put it into the turtle. 
You must make two sorts of quenelles, 
white and green, those with parsley 
green, and the other half white. 

Before you send up. squeeze the juice 
of two or three lemons, with a little cay- 
enne pepper, and pour it into the soup. 
The fins may be. served as a plat d'en- 
tree, or side dish, with a little turtle 
sauce ; if not, on the following day you 
may warm the turtle in the hot-water 
bath, and serve the members entire with 
a matelotte sauce, garnished with mush- 
rooms, cocks'-combs, quenelles, &c. 
When either lemon-juice or cayenne pep- 
per have been introduced, no boiling 
must take place. It is necessary to ob- 
serve, that the turtle prepared a day be- 
fore it is used is generally preferred, the 
flavor being more unifoi'm. When lem- 
on juice is uised be very cautious that the 
lemons are good ; a musty lemon will 
spoil all the turtle', and too much will 
destroy the flavor. 

Be particular, when you dress a very 
large turtle, to preserve the green fat in 
a separate stewpan, and likewise, when 
the turtle is entirely done, to have as 
many tureens as you mean to serve each 
time. You cannot put the whole in a 
large vessel, for man}^ reasons: first, it 
will be long in cooling ; secondly, when 
you take some out, it will break all the 
rest into rag.'^. If you warm in a hot- 
water bath, the turtle will always retain 
the same taste, but if you boil it often, 
it becomes stiong and loses the delicacy 
of its flavor. 

It is not the fashion to serve eggs with 
turtle, but it may be necessary to inquire 
whether thej* are preferred. 

Some people require besides, frican- 
dcaux, fricassees, &c., all of which are 



prepared in the same manner as veal, but 
made with those parts of flesh that are 
to be found in the turtle, four in number, 
two in the legs and two in the shoulders ; 
you may likewise make blanquette, &c. 

64.— MOCK TURTLE, ENGLISH FASHION. 

Take a calf's head very white and very 
fresh, bone the nose part of it ; put the 
head into some warm water to di.'^charge 
the blood ; squeeze the flesh with your 
hand, to ascertain that it is all out. 
Mind, the water should never be too hot 
for you to bear your hand in it ; as long 
as you can bear it the blood will come 
out, but if you sufi'er it to be too hot it 
will turn the head black. This method 
of disgorging the blood is to give the 
same heat to the blood as when the ani- 
mal was alive, and if your hand will bear 
the heat it shows that the blood may cir- 
culate in the veins, but if the water be 
too hot the blood will curdle, as it doe& 
in black pudding. When well disgorged, 
blanch the head in boiling water ; when 
firm, put it into cold water, and make a 
blanc to boil the head, as follows : — Cut 
half a pound of fat bacon, a pound of 
beef suet, an onion stuck with a clove, 
and two slices of lemon ; add to these 
slices of carrot, a bunch of parsley, green 
onions, thyme, bay-leaves, sweet basil, 
salt and pepper ; put all these into a ves- 
sel, with water enough to contain the 
head ; tie the head tightly in a clean 
towel, put it in the blanc, and boil two 
hours and a half; observe that it be not 
overdone ; let it cool in the liquor, then 
make the sauce in the following man- 
ner :— 

Put into a stewpan a pound of ham 
cut in slices, put over the ham two 
knuckles of veal, a large onion, and two 
carrots ; moisten with some of the broth 
in which you have boiled the head, to 
half the depth of the meat only : cover 
the stewpan, and put it over the fire to 
sweat through ; let the broth reduce to 



176 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER, 



a very good color, turn up the meat for 
fear of burning. When you have a vfery 
good color, and you find that the glaze is 
very brown, moisten with the whole of 
the broth from the head, season with a 
large bundle of sweet herbs, viz., sweet 
basil, sweet marjoram, lemon thyme, 
common thyme, two cloves, a bay-leaf, 
a few allspice, parsle}', green onions, and 
a few mushrooms ; let this boil together 
for one hour, then drain it. 

Put into a stewpan a quarter of a 
pound of vei'y fresh butter, let it melt 
over a slow fire ; put to this butter as 
much flour as it can receive ; let it go 
ger.tly over a slow fire, till the flour has 
acquired a very good brown color ; 
moisten this gradually with the broth, 
which you put through a silk sieve, till 
you have employed it all ; add half a bot- 
tle of Madeira ; let the sauce boil, that 
the flour may be well done ; take off all 
the scum and fat, and drain the sauce 
into a clean stewpan large enough to 
contain the calf s head ; boil the whole 
till done, cut the calf's head into square 
pieces of about an inch each ; put them 
to boil in the sauce ; season with salt 
and a little cayenne pepper. The bits of 
calf's head should always have the skin 
on one side, but you should leave none 
of the meat on, which does not adhere to 
the skin, otherwise the meat will break 
in the soup, and look unseemly. It is 
ont of fashion now to use eggs, but on 
this head tie taste of the master should 
be consuiteil, and you may make quen- 
elles instead. 

Observe, that you must not have the 
quenelles too delicate, for they would 
break in the soup and spoil the look of 
it ; the calf's head must not be too much 
done ; thrust your knife into the skin, 
and if the knife enters and detaches it- 
self easily, the meat is done enough. 

Some persons will have their mock 
turtle green ; in which case you must do 
as follows : Put into a stewpan a quar- 



ter of a pound of fresh butter, mince one 
or two onions, add a handful of each of 
the herbs described above, and some 
parsley, and sweat it all gently over a 
slow fire. When the herbs are well 
done, moisten with some of the sauce, 
and rub it through a tammy. Mix this 
with the sauce, and the turtle will be 
green, without any alteration in the fla- 
vor. Cayenne and lemon are always 
added when you serve up the soup. 

65— THE GAEBUEE, WITH BEOWN BEEAD. 
Take a knuckle of ham, perfectly sweet, 
a knuckle of veal, and about six pounds 
of flank of beef, which put into a pan; 
with an onion stuck with two cloves, a 
few carrots, &c. ; pour over the above 
two ladles of broth, and let the whole 
sweat over a slow fire. When the meat 
is done through the middle, cover it en- 
tirely with boiling broth, and let the 
whole stew for three hours. Then take 
one or more cabbages, which are to be 
washed clean and blanched. Braise 
them between layers of bacon, and moist- 
en them with the liquor in which the 
sweating has ben made, strained through 
a silk sieve. You must observe that, if 
the cabbages are not made rich and mellow, 
they are good for nothing. Add to the 
above, either sausages, bacon, or stewed 
legs of geese : mind above all things that 
the cabbage be not too briny, for the soup 
then would not be eatable. When the 
cabbage and broth are stewed enough, 
cut very thin slices of rye-bread : drain 
the cabbage in a cloth, so that there be 
no fat left, then take a large deep silver 
dish, lay a bed of bread, and over that 
one of cabbage, and moisten them with a 
little broth ; let them stew on a slow 
fire. When the cabbage and bread are 
sufficiently moistened, lay on six or 
eight beds more of each, and let it sim- 
mer on the stove till the bottom of the 
dish is gratined, as what sticks to the 
bottom of the dish is most tasty and pal- 



GAME SOUPS. 



177 



atable. Send up with the ham on the 
middle ; the bacon, the legs of geese, and 
sausages on the borders, and some broth 
separately.* 

66.-POTAGE A LA KEINE— (Queen Soup.) 
(Ude's New Eeceipt.)t 

For twelve people take three fat chick- 
ens or pullets, which are generally cheap- 
er and better than fowls : skin them, take 
out the lungs, wash them clean, and put 
them in a pan with a bunch of parsley 
only ; moisten the whole with good 
boiling broth: let it stew for an hour, 
then take out the chickens : soak the 
crumb of two penny loaves in the broth ; 
take off the flesh of the chickens, and 
pound it with the yolks of three or four 
eggs boiled hard, and the crumb of bread 
which has been sufficiently soaked in the 
broth. Rub the whole through a tammy ; 
then put a quart of cream on the fire, 
and keep stirring it continually till it 
boils. Pour it into the soup. It is not 
so liable to curdle as when the other 
method is used, and it tastes more of the 
chickens. If j^ou think proper to add 
either barley, rice, or vermicelli, let it be 
stewed in broth beforehand, and pour it 
into the soup only when quite done. 
"NYhen you have a great dinner, and fowls 
are very dear, use the fillets for the first- 
course dishes, and make the soup with 
the legs only ; the soup is as good, but 
not quite so white, as when mad 3 with 
the fillets, 

67.-EICE CREAM. (Ude.) 
This is flour of rice, which you make 
yourself in the following manner. Take 
a pound of rice, well washed in different 
waters, and drained and wiped with a 
clean towel. Let it get quite dry, then 



* This soup is never seen in this country ; it 
requires a very deep and very large dish. 

t Formerly I used- roasted chicken to make this 
potage, but I have found this new method cheaper, 
and not so subject to curdle as the other method. 



pound and shake it through a sieve. Take 
one or two spoonfuls of this flour, and 
dilute it with broth, rather cold than 
hot. All this time have some broth on 
the fire; throw the flour of rice thus 
diluted into the broth, and keep stirring 
till you find the soup is not too thick and 
may boil without the rice burning. This 
same kind of rice-flour may serve for 
souffles, or puffs, of the second course. 

68.— MOCK TUETLE SOUP. 
This soup, if well made, gives general 
satisfaction. Take a calf 's head, thorough- 
ly scraped and cleaned, the skin remain- 
ing on ; place it in a soup pot ; to this 
add that part of the hand of pickled pork 
which is free from bones, the fattest end, 
observing that it is proper to soak it well 
in water previous to using ; put in sweet 
herbs, a couple of onions, a head of celery, 
if large, a few truffles and morels, two if 
small, pounded mace and pepper; add 
plenty of water, without quite filling the 
saucepan ; boil slowly, until the meat has 
become tender, then remove it, and cut 
the meat from the bone into square 
pieces ; break the bones and put them 
again into the soup ; let it simmer for 
four or five hours, then place it where it 
can quickly cool, remove the fat and 
strain the soup ; thicken with flour and 
butter ; add three table-spoonfuls of Har- 
vey's sauce, four or five glasses of Sherry 
or Madeira, and squeeze a whole lemon 
into it ; add the meat of the head and 
the pork cut into well shaped pieces ; 
conclude with egg balls, or force-meat, 
or both, warm it and serve ; it will be 
found a delicious soup. 

69.— MOCK TUETLE SOUP. 
Blanch half a calf's head sufficiently to 
draw out the bones ; cut off" the ear and 
the tongue ; take off" the skin of the 
tongue, lay all separate until cold, and 
strain off" the liquor, and add it to your 
veal or second stock ; cut the meat into 



1Y8 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



large square dice, put it into a stewpan 
with your already prepared stock, and 
stew it until tender, strain off some of the 
stock ; get another stewpan, cut about one 
pound of lean. York or Westphalia ham, 
one pound of lean veal, a good fagot of 
basil and knotted-marjoram, two or three 
blades of mace, six or seven cloves, two 
bay-leaves, four onions, the parings of a 
few mushrooms, half a pound of butter ; 
fry them for some time a nice light brown, 
dry all up with flour, then add your stock 
you have previously strained from the cut 
pieces ; if too thick add more stock ; let all 
boil for some time, keeping it stirred with 
a wooden spoon ; when boiled sufficient, 
strain it through a tammy or tammy- 
sieve into the stewpan that has the cut 
pieces of the head ; boil all together ; sea- 
son with sugar, cayenne pepper, and salt, 
juice of leinon and white wine; if you 
wish to preserve the old fashion, by hav- 
ing forcemeat balls, egg, &c., refer for 
them to the previous receipt ; add them 
to it when they are blanched. I only 
put hard-boiled eggs, and, if I have any, 
a few quenelles. 

70.— HARE SOUP. 
An old hare is fitted only for soup or 
jiigging. To render it into soup let it be 
cleaned, cut into pieces, add a pound and 
a half or two pounds of beef, to which 
there is little or no fat ; place it at the 
bottom of the pan ; add two or three 
slices of ham or bacon, or a little of both, 
a couple of onions, and some sweet herbs ; 
add four quarts of boiling water, let it 
stew to shreds, strain off" the soup and 
take away the fat ; reboil it, add a spoon- 
ful of soy or Harvey's sauce, send to the 
table with a few force-meat balls. 
71.— HARE SOUP, OR WILD DUCK SOUP. 
Take a brace of Canadian hares or of 
wild ducks, and cut them up. Cook one 
moderately in an earthen pot with as 
much water as will cover it ; some cloves, 
salt and black pepper ; the pot being 



set in a large vessel full of water, in a 
close oven. 

Simmer the other till it is done com- 
pletely to rags in a gallon of water, and 
season it with cloves, salt, and black 
pepper. 

Strain the soup clear and make force- 
meat balls of the residue, with the yolk 
of an egg, some fine herbs, grated lemon 
peel, and a little stale bread. 

The hare or duck cooked in the earth- 
en pot must be cut in pieces two inches 
square. Color the soup with browning, 
throw in the forcemeat balls and cut 
meat ; boil it up quick, and add half a 
pint of port wine. 

72.— YELOUT^. 
Take the cuttings and remains of any 
joints of fowls and veal you may happen 
to have, weigh four pounds, and put into 
a large stewpan, with some onions, 
carrots, parsley, seal] ions, three bay 
leaves, three cloves, and a ladleful of 
stock ; put your stewpan upon a brisk 
fire, skim well, and be careful the meat 
does not stick; when enough reduced 
add as much stock as will nearly fill the 
stewpan, salt it well, give it a boil, skim, 
and then put it on the side of the fire to 
simmer for two hours, after which strain 
it through a tammy ; make a white /•ou.v ; 
stir into it for ten minutes a few cham- 
pignons, then pour on it, a httle at a 
time, the above liquor, let it boil up 
once, skim, and set it again by the side 
of the fire for an hour and a half, remove 
all fat, strain again and then put by for 
use. The veloute should be colorless, 
the whiter it is the better. 

73.— PIGEON SOUP. 
Take half a dozen of the fattest pigeons 
you can get, roast them only sufficient to 
warm them through ; cut the meat from 
the bones ; flour the latter well, and 
pound them in a mortar ; stew them in 



GAISIE AND VEGETABLE SOUPS. 



179 



a pint and a half of gootj gravy, add a 
piece of butter rolled in flour, a bunch of 
tarragon, chervil, a few onions, shalots, 
parsley, and basil, a few turnips, and 
carrots sliced ; season with cayenne and 
one blade of mace. Boil slowly two 
hours, pour, and pass through a cullen- 
der. Pulp through a tammy, and then 
with the flesh of the pigeons put them 
into a saucepan. Let it simmer one hour 
and serve. 

74-SNAPPING TURTLE SOUP. 

Clean and dissect your snapping turtle ; 
add water according to size,, taking care 
not to put in enough to thin the soup. 
Stew six or eight hours. Add a teacup- 
ful of browned flour, four ounces of 
butter, six eggs, one ounce of cloves, one 
ounce of mace, one ounce of alLspice, half 
a pint of sherry wine; boil up and 
serve. 

Soup may be made in the same way of 
the " couter " of the South. Forcemeat 
balls made of veal are usually added, 
with the eggs found in the couter. 

75.— SAVORY JELLY. 

Take half a pi°-'s head, boil it for one 
hour, then cut the meat into small pieces, 
put it again into the saucepan with half 
the liquor it was boiled in, add a little 
seasoning of pepper, salt, and mace, boil 
another hour ; turn it into a mould to 
get cold. The above is excellent made 
from calf's head, which in many country- 
places can be bought for a trifle ; but the 
mould should then be lined with hard 
boiled eggs, cut into slices, and a little 
parsley added to the seasoning. This is 
an economical breakfast or supper dish. 

76.— PARTRIDGE SOUP. 

When you have a brace of partridges 
which prove to be remaikably old, con- 
vert them into soup. Skin and cut them 



up, cut a handsome slice of ham as lean 
as possible and divide it in four, or cut as 
many thin slices, put them in the pan, 
add the partridges with an onion sliced, 
some celery, and four ounces of butter ; 
brown nicely without burning, put them 
into the stewpan with one quart and a 
pint of water, throw in a few white pep- 
pers whole, a shank of mutton, salt it to 
palate, strain, add stewed celery, fried 
bread, and previous to its boiling skim 
very clean and serve up. 

77.— VEGETABLE SOUPS. 

Although many of the following soups 
are made purely of .vegetables, yet some 
— and those generally the best— are 
made on a foundation of some sort of 
meat-broth in which the roots are stewed. 

The broth is therefore the real sioclc 
on which these • soups are made, though 
each bears the name of the vegetable 
which gives it flavor ; but when made 
solely from Iierbs, roots, and vegetables, 
and used as the basis for the formation of 
soupes-maigres, the stock is then com- 
posed of every sort in season which can, 
by long stewing, be reduced to a pulp, 
in which every species of savory herbs — 
such as chervil, tarragon, and marjoram 
— are mixed, together with a few chilis, 
shalots, and a head of garlic, seasoned 
with mace, whole peppers, salt, and 
mushroom ketchup; to which may be 
added a little curry-powder. The pulp 
is then strained ; and. being thus rather 
highly seasoned, may be kept for a few 
days, and used in aid of any other soup. 
It must be left to simmer during several 
hours ; and should it need browning, 
some sliced onions, fried in butter, will 
be all that is necessar3% 

Thus all the roots and most of such 
vegetables as can be easily made into 
purees, and combined with any sort of 
broth, will, in this manner, make excel- 
lent soup of diflerent denominations, 



180 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



though all founded upon the same meat- 
stock. The gravy of beef is always pre- 
ferred for savory soups, and that of veal 
or fowls for the more delicate white 
soups: to which from half a pint to a 
pint of cream, or, if that cannot be had, 
the same quantity of milk and the yolks 
of a couple of raw eggs should be added 
for every two quarts of soup ; remember- 
ing, however, that the latter will not im- 
part the richness of cream. 

Collect whatever vegetables are in 
season, take equal quantities, turnips, 
carrots-, cabbage, spinach, celery, parsley, 
onions, a little mint, &c., add plenty of 
herbs, cut them fine, put them into the 
stewpan, in which has previously been 
placed some oil ; stew gently until the 
vegetables become tender, then add two 
quarts of boiling water ; stew a quarter 
of au hour and serve. 

Some cooks advocate the introduction 
of peas, green or white, to this soup: 
where they are used, they must be boil- 
ed until tender in very little water, then 
mashed into a very loose paste; the 
vegetables having been scalded are then 
added, and two hours will sutRce for 
stewing; season it with salt and" pepper. 

Be careful that it does not burn while 
cooking, or the whole is spoiled. 

78.— TOMATO SOUP. 
Stew half a peck of tomatoes slowly 
an hour and a half in a pint of water ; 
pass them through a tamis ; add half 
a gallon of veal or mutton broth. Pass 
througli a tamis enough stale bread 
to thicken tlie soup. Fry twelve onions 
brown, and strain them the same way. 
Add them to the soup with a bunch of 
fine herbs, and seasoning to taste. Boil 
up well, and serve. 

79.— BEAN SOUP. 
Soak two quarts of dried white beans 
all night and put on the soup early. To 



five pounds of beef allow one of bacon 
cut small. Boil and skim it and put 
in the beans, drained, and a head of celery 
cut small. Boil slowly till the beans are 
melted and the soup is done ; strain it, 
and serve with toasted bread. 

80.— ASPARAGUS SOUP WITH GREEN 
PEAS. 

Make a soup of roots, and when strain- 
ed, boil a pint of green peas in the liquor. 
Choose some middling-sized asparagus, 
cut them in pieces about three inches 
long, blanch them in boiling water, and 
then throw them into cold water- ; drain 
them and tie them in small bunches, split 
the tops and boil them with the peas. 
When done make a puree of them and 
mix it with the root soup, and garnish 
with the asparagus. Good meat-broth 
may be used instead of the root soup. 

81.-S0UP DE L'ASPERGE. 
Cut into thin slices half a pound of 
bacon, lay them in the bottom of the 
stewpan, cut into lumps six pounds of 
lean beef and roll it well in flour, cover 
the pan close, shake occasionally until 
the gravy is all drawn, then add half a 
pint of old ale and two quarts of water ; 
throw in some whole peppers and a 
spoonful of salt, stew gently for an hour, 
skim the fat. and when an hour has 
elapsed strain ofi" the soup, then put in it 
some spinach, two cabbage lettuces, the 
leaves of white beet, a little mint, pow- 
dered s\Yeet aroma and sorrel, boil them, 
then put in the tops of asparagus cut 
small ; when they are tender the soup is 
done ; serve up hot with a French roll in 
the middle. 

82.— POTAGE A LA JULIENNE-(Julien Soup.) 
Take some carrots and turnips, and 
turn them ribbon like, a few heads of celery, 
some leeks and onions, and cut them all 
into fillets, thus . Then take 



VEGETABLE SOUPS. 



181 



about two ounces of butter and lay it at 
the bottom of the stewpan, with the roots 
over the butter. Fry them on a slow 
fire, and keep stirring gently ; moisten 
them with broth and gravy of veal, and 
let them boil on the corner of the stove ; 
skim all the fat off, and put in a little 
sugar to take off the l^itter taste of the 
vegetables: you may in summer-time add 
green peas, asparagus-tops, French beans, 
some lettuce, or sorrel. In winter-time, 
the taste of the vegetables being too 
strong, you must blanch them, and im- 
mediately after stew them in the broth : 
if they were fried in butter their taste 
would also be too strong. Add bread, 
as above, in the tureen. 

88.— THE JULIENNE WITH CONSOMMlfe— 
(or Broth of Fowl.) 

The same as above, onlj- you moisten 
it with consomm of fowl, and put in 
the back of a roasted chicken, from the 
preceding day, which stew with the 
roots ; when boiled for one hour, take it 
out of the broth, and send up with the 
bread, as above. 

84.— JULIENNE, OR VEGETABLE BEOTH. 
Cut various kinds of vegetables in 
pieces, celery, carrots, turnips, onions, &c., 
and having put two ounces of butter in the 
bottom of a stewpan, put the vegetables 
on the top of the butter, together with 
any others that may be in season ; stew or 
fry them over a slow fire, keeping them 
stirred, and adding a little of the stock 
occasionally ; soak small pieces of crust 
of bread in the remainder of the broth 
or stock, and when the vegetables are 
nearly stewed, add them, and warm the 
whole up together 

85-SOTEK'S JULIENNE SOUP. 
This soup is entirely the hereditary 
property of France, and is supposed to be 
so called from the months of June and 
12 



July, when all vegetables are in full 
season ; and to make it in reality as 
originally made, a small quantity of 
every description of vegetables should 
be used, including lettuce, sorrel, and 
tarragon; however, some few sorts of 
vegetables, mixed together, make a most 
estimable soup. Weigh half a pound of 
the vegetables in fair proportions to each 
other, that is. carrots, turnips, onions, 
celery, and leeks, which cut into small 
fillets an inch in length, and of the thick- 
ness of a trussing-needle ; when done, 
wash dry, and pass them in butter and 
sugar as before, add two quarts of clear 
soup, adding, just before it is done, a 
little sorrel, cabbage-lettuce, and chervil 
or peas, if handy, but it will be excellent 
without either. 



86.— A SPRING SOUP. 
The following is recommended for puri- 
fying the blood, and consequently clear- 
ing the complexion : — Take a handful of 
fresh sorrel and a handful of water-cress- 
es ; cut them up fine, but do not chop 
them ; put them into about two quarts 
of boiling water, adding a carrot cut up 
in small pieces, three or four potatoes, 
cut in quarters, two slices of bread (if 
of a sixpenny loaf), also cut up ; pei)per 
and salt to taste. Boil well till the soup 
assumes a consistency, which it will do 
as the vegetables and bread dissolve in 
it. Stir it frequently, and it will prove 
a very palatable soup. With a moderate 
fire it maj^ be prepared in about two 
hours. The liquor from any boiled meat 
may be used instead of plain water. 



ST.— MACARONI, WITH CONSOMM^, OR 
STOCK-BROTH. 

Take a quarter of a pound of Naples 
macaroni, and boil it in water, till it is 
nearly done. Strain well, and put it 
into a rich consomme to boil. Let it be 



182 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



well done ; grate some Parmesan cheese, 
which send up separately in a plate. 

88.— CABBAGE SOUP. 
Take four or six pounds of beef, boil 
with it some b!ack pepper whole for 
three hours, cut three or four cabbages 
in quarters, boil them until they are 
quite tender, turn them into a dish, and 
serve all together. 

80.— MACARONI SOUP. 

Take a quart of gravy soup : break 
two ounces of Naples macaroni into 
pieces of little more than an inch long, 
putting them, by degrees, into a small 
portion of the boiling soup, to prevent 
them from sticking together, and let 
them boil until quite tender, but not soft 
or pulpy — from fifteen to twenty minutes 
if quite fresh, but nearly half an hour if 
at all stale. Verniicelli is used in the 
same manner. They will improve the 
consistence of the soup if the quantity 
above stated be added : but it is useless 
and does not look well to see, as at some 
tables, only a few strings of it floating 
in the tureen. The flavor will also be 
much improved if a small quantity of 
Parmesan cheese be either melted in it, 
or grated and served up separately. 

90.— SOUP A LA CKECI, OK CARROT SOUP. 
Cut half a pound of lean ham in dice, 
three onions, four turnips, twelve carrots, 
the outer side red only, a head of celery, a 
fagot of sweet herbs, two blades of mace, 
six cloves, a bay -leaf, and half a pound of 
salt butter ; fry all well down in a stew- 
pan until they get a little brown, then 
add some second stock, and stew until 
all the roots are quite tender, then rub it 
through a tammy sieve or tammy cloth 
with two long spoons ; if very thick, add 
.more stock. Season with cayenne and 
black pepper, and salt, and a good bit of 
sugar ; send up on a napkin some nice 



fried bread cut in small dice, and not 

greasy. 

91.— GREEN PEA POERIDGE. 
(A most delicious potage.) 

Green peas three pints, milk three 
pints, butter one-quarter of a pound, flour 
enough for thickening. 

Boil the peas in just water enough to 
cook them until they are tender; then 
pour in the milk ; when it boils, add the 
butter and flour rubbed well together; 
let it boil long enough to cook the flour ; 
season with pepper and salt, and serve 
hot. 

92.— GREEN PEA SOUP. 

Put two quarts of green peas into a 
stewpan with a quarter of a pound of 
butter, a quarter of a pound of lean ham, 
cut into small dice, two onions in slices, 
and a few sprigs of parsley ; add a quart 
of cold water, and with the hands rub all 
well together ; then pour off the water, 
cover the stewpan close, and stand it over 
a sharp fire, stirring the contents round 
occasionally ; wlien very tender, add two 
tablespoonfuls of flour, which mix well 
in mashing the peas with your spoon 
against the sides of the stewpan ; add 
two quarts of stock, or broth from the 
Pot-au-feu, a table-spoonful of sugar, and 
a little pepper and salt, if required; boil 
all well together five minutes, when rub 
it through a tamiuy or hair sieve ; then 
put it into another stewpan, with a pint 
of boiling milk ; boil five minutes, skim 
well, and pour it into your tureen. It 
must not be too thick ; serve with crou- 
tons of bread. 

93.— WINTER PEA SOUP. 

Wash a quart of split peas, which put 

into a stewpan with half a pound of 

streaked bacon, two onions in slices, two 

pounds of veal or beef, cut uito small 



VEGETABLE SOUPS. 



183 



pieces, and a little parsley, thyme, and 
bay-leaf; add a gallon of water, with a 
little salt and sugar ; place it upon the 
fire, and when boiling, stand it at the side 
until the peas are boiled to a puree, and 
the water has reduced to half; then take 
out the meat, which put upon a dish, to 
be eaten with the bacon, keeping it hot ; 
rub the soup through a hair sieve or tam- 
my, put it into another stewpan, and 
when boiling, serve. The meat may also 
be served in the tureen if approved of 
Maigre pea soup may also be made by 
omitting the meat, adding half a pound 
of butter, one quart of milk, and omitting 
a quart of water. 

94.- LEEK, OR ONION SOUP. 

The liquor in which a leg of mutton 
has been boiled will do very well for this 
broth. Mix a spoonful or two of oat- 
meal, according to the quantity of broth, 
m cold water, very smooth, the same as 
if for gruel ; add a little of the broth, by 
degrees, until the whole is incorporated ; 
then boil the Hquor with any quantity of 
leeks or onions — both or either — until it 
becomes of the consistence of cream. Or 
omit the oatmeal, and substitute flour, 
stirring the soup very hard for five min- 
utes ; and when you are about taking it 
from the fire, stir in the yolks of two raw 
eggs beat up with a little more broth, 
and serve it immediately. 

Onions, peeled, pared, and cut into 
pieces, then shred into a pan and fried in 
either oil or butter, without . any broth, 
but simplj' having boiling water poured 
over them, and some toasted bread, sea- 
soned merely with pepper and salt, are 
considered very refreshing when thus 
made into a soup, and much used by 
ladies throughout Europe after the fa- 
tigues of a ball. 

95.— POTATO SOUP MAIGEE. 

Take some large mealy potatoes ; peel 



and cut them into small slices with an 
onion ; boil them in three pints of water 
till tender, and then pulp them through a 
colandei ; add a small piece of butter, a 
little cayenne pepper and salt, and, just be- 
fore the soup is served, two spoonfuls of 
good cream. The soup must not be al- 
lowed to boil after the cream has been 
put into it. 

96.— TOMATO SOUP. 
Wash, scrape, and cut small the red 
part of three large carrots, three heads of 
celery, four large onions, and two large 
turnips ; put them into a saucepan with 
a table-spoonful of butter, and half a 
pound of lean new ham ; let them .stew 
very gently for an hour, then add three 
quarts of brown gravy soup, and some 
whole black pepper, with eight or ten 
ripe tomatoes ; let it boil an hour and a 
half, and pulp it through a sieve ; serve 
it with fried bread cut in dice. 

97. -SOUP SOEEEL— A SUMMEE SOUP. 

Take a good quantity of sorrel and mix 
with it the top leaves of beet-root ; boil 
them thoroughly; press them enough to 
extract all the water, and chop them un- 
til they are almost a paste ; when they 
are quite cold, add the coldest spring wa- 
ter attainable, and mix until rather thick- 
er than cream ; cut in thin slices two 
cucumbers steeped in a mixture of vine- 
gar and a little cayenne ; boil three eggs 
hard, and cut them in very small pieces ; 
now, having chopped the green ends of 
young onions small, and added to the 
paste, pour over cream to your taste, and 
then add the sliced cucumber and boiled 
egg ; serve up garnished with clean pieces 
of ice. 

98.— TOMATO SOUP. 
Slice two onions and fry them in but- 
ter until brown ; remove them and fry 
two dozen tomatoes just suflScient to heat 



184 



THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



them through, then put them into a stew- 
pan with their gravy and the onions, add 
a head of celery and a carrot sUced ; stew 
gently for half an hour, add three pints 
of gravy, stew an hour and a half, pulp 
the whole of the vegetables through a 
sieve, season v/ith white pepper, salt, and 
cayenne, serve with sippets of toasted 
bread cut in shapes. 

99.— PEPPER POT. (English.) 
Put in a stewpan three quarts of wa- 
ter ; to this add celery, turnips, carrots, 
lettuces, cut small ; add the bones of 
cold roast meat of any description ; half 
a pound of bacon, the same weight of 
salted pork ; stew gently until the meat 
is tender, taking care to skim when it 
fii'st boils. 

Boil half a peck of spinach and rub it 
through a cplander ; take the bones out 
of the soup and add the spinach ; with it 
the meat of a lobster or crab minced ; 
season with plenty of cayenne pepper, 
and salt to taste. 

Suet dumplings may be boiled with it, 
or a fowl, but this is matter of taste. 
]\Iutton or beef may be substituted for 
bacon or pork ; this will be obvious when 
it is understood that a pepper pot is pre- 
sumed to consist of an equal proportion 
of flesh, fish, fowl and vegetables. 

100.— PUEi:E OK TUENIP SOUP. 

Get a bunch of turnips, pare them and 
cut them in thin slices ; one head of white 
celery, one onion ; fill up your stewpan 
with good second white stock, boil them 
until quite tender, then pass it all through 
a tammy by rubbing it with wooden 
spoons, or a tammy sieve ; season with 
sugar, cayenne and salt. Send up fried 
bread, as for former soups; add half a 
pint of cream the last thing. 

101.— SAUTf; SOUP. 

Cut carrots, and turnips, and onions, 



and celerj^, as straws, about one inch 
long, quite thin ; the carrots you will 
trim, using only the red part, the j'^ellow 
that is left use for your stock pot ; cut 
3'^our onions in quarters, then cut them 
the size endways, blanch them for two 
or three minutes, strain them on the back 
of a hair sieve to drain ; then add them 
to the quantity of soup required, allowing 
half a pint to each person ; therefore, as 
j'ou must reduce it to have the flavor 
of your vegetables, allow a pint more, re- 
ducing it to the quantity you require; 
season it with lump sugar, caj-enne pep- 
per and salt ; be sure and not go to the 
extreme. 

102.— SPPJNG SOUP. 
As saute ; the same roots cut different- 
ly, and add, if to be had, spinach, cab- 
bage-lettuce, a very little sorrel, as it 
turns acid on the stomach, all cut rather 
small, tarragon, chervil, green asparagus, 
young peas, cucumbers ; cut the asparagus 
about one inch long, cut the tarragon and 
chervil a little, and a few French beans 
cut ; use your consomme stock as before, 
boiling all your green parts particularly 
green in water a few minutes, leaving 
them to be sufiiciently done in your 
stock ; if you have a cauliflower boiled, 
pick a few small pieces and put in the 
soup-tureen ; the boiling soup when pour- 
ed in will make it hot ; season as before. 

10,3.— WINTER VEGETABLE SOUPS. 

Take carrots, turnips, and the heart of 
a head of celery, cut into dice, with a 
dozen button onions ; half boil them in 
salt and water, with a little sugar in it ; 
then throw them into the broth ; and, 
when tender, serve up the soup : or use 
rice, dried peas and lentils, and pulp 
them into the soup to thicken it. 

With many of these soups, small suet 
dumplings, very lightly made, and not 
larger than an egg, are boiled either in 
broth or water, and put into the tureen 



just before serving, and are by most per- 
sons thought an improvement, but are 
more usually put into plain gravy-soup 
than any other, and should be made light 
enough to swim in it. 

Such are the chief soups made of veg- 
etables on a foundation of meat; both 
those made solely of vegetables, without 
any intermixture of meat broth, may be 
made into very palatable soups by using 
the vegetable stock. 

FISH SOUPS. 

Notwithstanding the quantity of ex- 
cellent fish, this nutritious and economi- 
cal viand is not often introduced at table 
in the form of soup. Nothing could be 
more easy than to multipl}^ receipts for 
an almost endless variety: those that 
follow will, however, show how much 
may be done with many kinds of fish 
which are not in very high estimation. 

When not wanted as soupe-maigre^ the 
foundation, or stock, though called " fish- 
soup," is always better if made of meat, 
and veal is generally preferred. "VVe. 
therefore, here add a receipt for its com- 
position, as it may be applied to any kind 
of fish ; though, in those which we shall 
hereafter specify, it is not mentioned, as 
they are all intended to be maigre. 

104.— STOCK FOE FISH SOUP. 
Take a dozen flounders, or any small 
flat fish, and the same number of perch ; 
gut and clean them carefully ; put them 
into a stewpan with two quarts of strong 
veal-broth ; add a few slices of lean ha n, 
two or three carrots, celery, and onions 
cut in slices, some sweet herbs and salt, 
with a httle cayenne ; stew till the fish 
will pass through a coarse sieve ; then 
return it into the stewpan. with a good 
lump of butter and some flour to thicken 
it ; add a couple of large glasses of white 
wine, and a large spoonful of garlic vine- 
gar. The gravy from potted herrings, 



anchovies, or a little Oude sauce, will 
also improve the flavor. 

This stock, if once reboiled, will, in 
cold weather, keep well for a month ; or. 
if served as soup, the quantity may of 
course be reduced according to the num- 
ber of the party intended to partake of 
it, and it will be found excellent. In- 
deed, any species of fish may be made 
into soup in the same manner. If meant 
to be hroioned, the onions should be fried, 
and a good spoonful of mushroom ketch- 
up or India soy be added ; and red wine 
will be better than either sherry or Ma- 
deira. But if left ^chite^ cream should 
be substituted for ketchup and soy ; a 
glassful of ginger wine will answer the 
purpose of red wine. 

105.— LOBSTER SOUP. 
If prepared fish-stock be not used, the 
stock of this soup may be made of any 
fish not of sufficient consequence to be 
dressed in any other way. Clean and 
cut them in pieces, take the meat out of 
one or two lobsters, cut it into small 
pieces, and lay it aside ; break the shell 
and add it to the fish for the stock, 
which should be boiled gently for several 
hours; take the coral of the lobster, 
pound it in a mortar, with a small piece 
of the stock, partly pounded, and make 
it up into forcemeat-balls, with a little 
chopped parsley, bread-crumbs, and an 
egg. When the stock is sufficiently 
done, strain it, thicken it with butter and 
flour, or cream : warm the lobster in it, 
and send it up, cut small, with the force- 
meat-balls. Season it also delicately, 
but yet sufficiently to give it flavor, 
which can be imparted by any of the 
compound sauces so commonly adver- 
tised. 

106.— LOBSTER SOUP. 
To one large hen lobster scalded and 
cleaned, take two quarts of strong calf s 



1S6 



THE PEACTICAL H0U8EKEEPEK. 



feet broth ; pound the shells, small claws, 
eggs, fat and coral in a mortar, and sim- 
mer three hours in the soup. Out the 
tails into square pieces, and fry them 
brown. Make the claws into forcemeat- 
balls with the j-olks of two eggs, grated 
lemon-peel, parsley, thyme, a very little 
olives, and grated biscuit, and fry them 
brown. Boil them up in the soup quich- 
ly in five minutes ; add half a pint of 
poit wine, and lemon to taste ; with salt, 
pepper, and a little mace. (This is the 
best soup on record.) 

107.— LOBSTER SOUP. (English.) 
Extract the meat from the shells of 
four hen lobsters, which have been boil- 
ed : put the spawn aside, beat the fins 
and small claws in a mortar ; then place 
both in a saucepan, with two quarts of 
water, until the whole goodness of the 
fish has been drawn; then strain the 
liquor. Beat in a mortar the spawn, a 
lump of flour and butter ; rub it through 
a sieve into the soup previously strained ; 
simmer without boiling, that the color 
may be preserved, ten minutes ; squeeze 
in a piece of a lemon, with a little of 
the essence of anchovies. 

When this dish is sent to table as a 
feature, forcemeat-balls are served with 
it; they are made of minced lobster, 
spawn, crumb of French roll, egg, and 
mace pounded ; roll it in flour, and serve 
in the soup. 

108.— PUKfiE OF LOBSTER SOUP. 

Get two large hen lobsters, take out 
all the meat, chop and pound it fine, six 
anchovies boned, put the shells in some 
second stock to boil for some time, strain 
oft' the liquor into your jiounded lob- 
ster.s, bT)il all until tender, rub all through 
a tammy, add one pint of cream ; season 
with cayenne P"pj>er, a little sugar, and 
salt, and lemon-juice. 

109.— CLAM SOUP. 

To the liquor of fifty clams, allow 



three quarts of water, and put it on 
with a knuckle of veal, the bone chop- 
ped. Simmer three hours, put in a 
bunch of sweet herbs, nutmeg, mace, a 
table-spoonful of whole pepper, and stew 
an hour longer. Then strain and add 
four ounces of butter rubbed in flour, and 
the clams chopped in pieces. Boil a 
quarter of an hour and serve. 

110.— OYSTER SOUP. 

Beard four dozen oysters, preserve the 
liquor in opening them, which must be 
placed with the beards of the oysters in 
a stewpan ; slice any fish, small fresh- 
water fish will serve excellently well, 
and adding them, stew for five or six 
hours; strain and thicken it, add two 
spoonfuls of soy or an}^ fish sauce, or 
omit it, to taste. Add the oysters, and 
when they are warm through, serve. 

111.— OYSTER SOUP. 
Get four flounders, or similar portions 
of any fish, four dozen of large oysters, 
blanch them slightly, take off the beards 
and gristle, put the beards and fish into 
some of your best white stock, boil all 
together for several hours, add four an- 
chovies washed, strain ^11 off" and thicken 
it with flour and butter, add one pint of 
cream, put in j'our oysters you had tak- 
en care of, the last thing, just boiling 
them up in the soup ; having passed it 
through a tamni}', season it with cayenne 
pepper, salt, and a small piece of sugar. 

112.— OYSTER SOUP. 

Take fifty oysters, blanch them, but 
do not let them boil ; strain them 
through a sieve, and save the liquor. 
Put one-quarter pound of butter into 
a stewpan; when it is melted, add six 
ounces of flour ; stir it over the fire for 
a iow minutes; add the liquor from the 
oysters, two quarts of veal stock, one 
quart of new milk; season with salt, 
])eppercorns, a little cayenne j)epper, a 
blade of mace, Harvey sauce and esseno* 



of anchovies, a tablespoonful each ; strain 
it through a tammy ; let it boil ten min- 
utes ; put the oysters into the tureen 
with a gill of cream, and pour the boil- 
ing soup upon them. 

113.— EEL SOUP. 
Take any number of pounds of eels, 
according to the quantity required ; add 
two-thirds water. If about three or four 
pounds of eels, add one onion, a small 
quantity of mace, a little pepper whole, 
sweet herbs, a crust of the top side of 
bread ; cover down close ; stew till the 
fish separates, strain. Toast slices of 
bread deep brown, but not to burn ; cut 
into triangular pieces or squares, a piece 
of carrot two inches long, cut into four 
slices lengthwise, put into a tureen with 
the toast, pour the soup on; boiling 
cream may be added thickened with a 
little flour, but it should be rich enough 
without it. 

114.— NEW ENGLAND CHOWDEE. 
Have a good haddock, cod, or any other 
solid fish, cut it in pieces three inches 
square, put a pound of fat salt pork in 
strips into the pot. set it on hot coals, 
and fry out the oil. Take out the pork, 
and put in a layer of fish, over that a 
layer of onions in slices, then a layer of 
fish with strips of fat salt pork, then 
another layer of onions, and so on alter- 
nately until your fish is consumed. Mix 
some flour with as much water as will 
fill the pot; season with black pepper 
and salt to your taste, and boil it for half 
an hour. Have ready some crackers 
soaked in water till they are a little soft- 
ened ; throw them into your chowder 
five minutes before you take them up. 
Sei-ve in a tureen. 

115.— NEW ENGLAND CHOWDER. 
Cover the bottom of a pot with slices 
of boiled salt pork, with a little onions ; 
on this place a layer of fish in large 



pieces, season with pepper, and cover it 
with a layer of biscuit soaked in milk, 
and a layer of sliced potatoes. Put above 
this another layer of pork, as before, 
with fish, &c., the biscuit being on the top 
of all. Pour in a pint and a half of 
water, cover, and boil it slowly an 
hour; then skim and turn it into a deep 
dish. Thicken the gravy with butter 
rolled in flour, and parsley. 

116 .—CLAM SOUP. 
Boil a knuckle of veal in as much 
water as will cover it well. When it has 
boiled about half or a quarter of an hour, 
open half a peck of clams by placing 
them over the fire, in a very small quan- 
tity of water. Pour the juice of the 
clams into the. pot which contains the 
knuckle of veal. BoU the soup three or 
four hours, seasoning it with a table- 
spoonful of pepper. Add no salt, as the 
clam juice will have made it salt enough. 
When the veal is quite tender, cut up 
the clams in small pieces (that is to say, 
each clam in three or more pieces), and 
throw them into the soup, with a quar- 
ter of a pound of butter chopped into 
bits. Some persons roll the butter in 
flour, which they think makes it mix 
with the clam juice ; others use no flour, 
as they dislike to detect the taste of the 
flour. 

IIT.— CLAM SOUP, 
(Prepared by a Dublin Lady.) 
Put forty or fifty clams, in the shells, 
with as little water as possible. When 
the liquor has run out from the opened 
shells, take the clams out and chop them 
fine, with an onion, a bunch of minced 
celery, and some mace and pepper^ Put 
all in the soup, and thicken it with two 
tablespoonfuls of butter rolled in flour, 
and if you choose, add a little milk. 
Simmer twenty minutes ; stir in the 
beaten yolks of five eggs ; put bits of 
toasted bread into the tureen and serve. 



188 



THE PRACTICAL HOTISEKEEPEK. 



118.— LAKE AND POND FISH SOUP. 
For every person take a pound each of 
any fresh-water fish that can be obtain- 
ed ; wash them in salt and water, and 
stew them with a tomato, carrots, leeks, 
fried onions, and sweet herbs, in as much 
water as will cover them ; and let them 
stew until the whole is reduced to a 
pulp ; then strain the liquor, and boil it 
for another hour until it becomes quite 
smooth. Then have ready some roots 
of any sort that may be in season, which 
have been chopped small, and boiled 
either in milk or water : add them to the 
soup, and let it simn.er for one-quarter of 
an hour ; season it, if milk has been 
used, with mace and celery, with a little 
cayenne ; but if made solely with water, 
then use Chili vinegar, soy, mushroom 
ketchup, or any of the savory sauces. 



FISH. 

Fish should be well washed, scaled, 
and cleaned, by drawing the entrails 
tlirough a slit in the under side. The 
roe and liver should be separated, wash- 
ed, and cooked with the fish. The roe 
proves the fish in season. Slimy fish 
may be scalded in salt and water, but 
mu.st be dried befoi'e cooking. 

Fresh fish, when boiled, should be 
placed in cold, and shell-fish in boiling- 
water. 

To keep oysters after washing them, 
lay them in a tub in a cool cellar, with 
the deep part of the shell undeimost. 
Sprinkle them with salt and Indian meal, 
then fill the tub with cold water. Change 
the water every day. and the oj'sters 
will keep fresh a fortnight 

Fish should be garnisshed with horse- 
radish or parsley. The only vegetable 
served with fish is potatoes. 

119.— SALT AND FPvESH-WATER FISH. 

When boiling fish put a little salt and 



a little vinegar into the water to give the 
fish fiimness. Be careful to let fish be 
well done, but not to let it break. When 
very fresh, cod and whiting are very 
much improved by keeping a day, aud 
rubbing a little salt down the back-bone. 
Fresh- water fish often have a muddy 
smell and taste, which is easily got rid 
of by soaking it. After it has been 
thoroughly cleansed in strong salt and 
water, if the fish is not too large, scald 
it in the same, then dry and dress it. 

Fish that is to be hoiled must be put on 
the fire in cold h:ird water ; when it boils, 
skim with the greatest care ; throw in a 
little cup of cold water to check the ex- 
treme of heat, then keep it simmering 
only, lest the outside break before the 
thick and inner part be done; but 
" crimi)ed fish " should be put into boil- 
ing water, and simmered a few minutes. 

When it boils up, some cold water 
should be put into it to check it, and 
keep it simmering. The cover should be 
kept on the kettle to prevent soot falling 
in and discoloring the fish. Fish should 
be boiled with a handful of salt, and half 
a teacupful of vinegar. All fish should 
be taken out of the water the instant it 
is done, or it will become woolly. To as- 
certain when it is done, the fish-plate 
may be drawn up, and, if done, the meat 
will leave the bone. To keep it hot. and 
to prevent it losing its coloi-, the fi.^h-plate 
should be placed across the fish-kettle and 
a clean cloth put over the fish. If left in 
the water after it is ready, fish loses its 
firmness. Serve fish on a napkin. 

It is impossible to dress fish too fresh . 
Some kinds will bear keeping be;.t'T than 
others, but none arc improved by it. 

Families who purchase a whole salmon, 
and like it quite fresh, should parboil the 
portion not required for the day's con- 
sumption, and lay it aside in the liquor, 
boiling up the whole together when 
wanted. By this means the curd will 
set, and the fish be equally good on thf 



followiug day. The custom of serving 
up rich sauces, such as lobster, is unknown 
in salmon countries ; a little lemon peel 
or white vinegar being quite sutficient, 
added to melted butter. Salmon should 
be garnished with parsley and scraped 
horseradish. 

Small fish may be nicely fried plain, or 
done with egg and bread crumbs, and then 
fried. Upon the dish on which the fish 
is to be served should be placed a damask 
napkin, folded, and upon this put the 
fish, with the roe and liver ; then garnish 
the dish with horseradish, parsley, and 
lemon. 

To boil or fry fish nicely, after it is 
well washed, it should be put in a cloth, 
and when dry, wetted with egg and bread 
crumbs. It will be much improved by 
being wetted with egg and crumbs a 
second time. Then have your pan with 
plenty of boiling dripping or lard, put 
your fish into it. and let it fry rather 
quickly till it is of a nice brown and ap- 
pears done. If it is done before being 
nicely browned, it should be taken from the 
pan, and placed on a sieve before the fire 
to drain and brown. If wanted very nice, 
put a sheet of cap paper to receive the 
fish. Should you fry j our fish in oil, it 
obtains a much finer color than when 
done in lard or dripping. Never use 
butter, as it makes the fish a bad color. 
Garnish your dish with green or fried 
parsley. 

In broiling fish, be careful that your 
gridiron is clean ; place it on the fire, 
and when hot, rub it over with suet to 
hinder the fish from sticking. The fish 
must be floured and scaFoned before broil- 
ing. It must be broiled over a clear fire 
only, and great care must be taken that 
it does not burn or become smoky. 

Broiled fish for breakfast should al- 
ways be skinned, buttered, and peppered. 

Fish are broiled, fried, boiled, baked, 
stewedj in fact cooked in every imaginable 



fashion ; those named are the chief 
methods. In every kind, the greatest 
attention and cleanliness must be exer- 
cised. A broken, disfigured, or ill-cook- 
ed dish of fish presented at table, is 
quite sufiicient to destroy the taste for 
it for ever ; on the contrary, when neatly 
done it heightens the relish which every 
one possesses more or less, and imparts 
an appetite where one may be wanting, 
while the cook is held in grateful remem- 
brance. 

120.— MARINADE 

Is commonly used in France for the 
purpose of boiling fish, which imbibes 
from it a more pleasant flavor than it 
naturally possesses, and has been so 
generally adopted by professed cooks 
that we here insert the receipt: — Cut 
up two carrots, three onions, half a dozen 
shalots, a single clove of garlic, and put 
them into a stewpan with a piece of but- 
ter, a bunch of parsley, and a bundle of 
sweet herbs ; fry the whole for a few 
minutes, then add, very gradually, two 
bottles of any light wine or of cider. 
Put in a handful of salt, two dozen of 
peppercorns, the same quantity of all- 
spice, and a couple of cloves. Simmer 
the whole together for one and a half 
hours, strain the liquoi", and put it by for 
use. 

This marinade, if carefully strained af- 
ter the fish has been taken out, will serve 
several times for the same purpose, add- 
ing a little water each time. Fish dress- 
ed in it should simmer very gently, or 
rather stew than boil, as it affords to 
mackerel, fresh herrings, perch, roach, 
and any of the small river fish, the ad- 
vantage of dissolving, or so thoroughly 
softening their bones as to render them 
more agreeable in eating. For large fish, 
they should be cut into steaks before 
being marinaded. Instead of the wine 
or cider, a quart of table-beer, a glass of 



190 



THE PKACTICAL H0U8EKEEPEK. 



soy, one of essence of anchovies, and one 
of ketchup, may be used ; or a pint of 
vinegar and these sauces, fennel, chives, 
thyme, and bay-leaves, may be added 
Vi-ith the wine, cider, &c. Or, choose a 
kettle that will suit the size of the fish, 
into which put two parts water, one of 
light (not sweet) white wine, a good 
piece of butter, some stewed onions and 
carrots, pepper, salt, two or three cloves, 
and a good hunch of sweet herbs ; sim- 
mer one-quarter of an hour, let it be- 
come cold, then boil the fish therein. 
Serve with anchovy-sauce and a squeeze 
of lemon. 

121.— COD FISH. 

Fresh cod is good boiled, fried, or 
made into a chowder. It is too dry a 
fish to broil. Salt cod should be soaked 
in lukewarm water till the skin will 
^,ome off easily — then take up the fish, 
scrape off" the skin, and put it in fresh 
water, and set it on a very moderate fire, 
where it will keep warm without boil- 
ing, as . it hardens by boiling. It takes 
between three and four hours to cook it 
soft — serve it up with drawn butter. 

122.— TO BOIL COD FISH. 

Crimped cod is preferable to the plain ; 
it is likewise better cut in slices than 
cooked whole ; to boil it well, have the 
water ready boiling with one pound of salt 
to every six quarts ; put in your fish, draw 
your fish-kettle to the corner of the fire, 
where let it simmer slowly from twenty 
minutes to half an hour ; when done, 
the bone in the centre will draw out 
easily ; if boiled too much, it would eat 
tough and stringy ; should the fish not 
be crimped, add more salt to the water, 
it will cause the fish to eat firmer. 

123.— COD FISH WITH OYSTER SAUCE. 

Boil three slices of the fish as above, 
drain and drtiss them upon a dish with- 
out a napkin, blanch three dozen oys- 
ters, by putting them into a stewpan, 



with their juice, upon the fire, move 
them round occasionally, do not let them 
boil ; as soon as they become a lit- 
tle firm, place a sieve over a basin, 
pour in the oysters, beard them, put the 
liquor again into the stewpan ; w^hen 
boiling, add two cloves, half a blade of 
mace, six peppercorns, and two ounces of 
butter, to which you have added a table- 
spoonful of flour, breaking it into small 
pieces, stir well together, when boiling, 
season with a little salt, cayenne pepper, 
and essence of anchovies ; finish with a 
gill of cream or milk, add the oysters, 
and sauce over. The remains of the fish 
may be taken from the bone and placed 
upon a dish, with a little of the above 
sauce (to which you have added the 
yolks of two eggs), then sprinkle over 
with bread-crumbs, and place it twenty 
minutes in a hot oven till the bread- 
crumbs become brown. 

124.— COD SOUNDS.— EAGOtTT. 

The sounds should not be much soaked, 
but thoroughly cleaned. Simmer them 
for a short time, broil them, having first 
floured them ; when they are just tender, 
stew them in white gravy which has 
been well seasoned, add a little cream, a 
bit of butter, a spoonful of flour, give it 
a boil, flavor with nutmeg, a small piece 
of lemon-peel, and a dash of pounded 
mace ; serve. 

125.— SLICES OF COD. 
Three slices make a small dish ; put 
them in a baking-dish, cover them over 
with some good second stock, a little es- 
sence of anchovies ; when done thicken 
the stock, and pass it through a tammy, 
pour it over your fish, season with cay- 
enne pepper, and salt, and lemon juice ; 
if for capers add them, if for maitre 
d'hotel, add cream and parsley chopped 
fine. 

126.— CODFISH AU GKATIN. 

I This is the best mode of using the re 



mains of a dressed codfish. Put soma 
cold oyster-sauce at the bottom of a pie- 
dish, then a hiyer of the codfish (season- 
ed with pepper, salt, and an atom of 
nutmeg), with any of the liver and 
sound that remains ; then repeat the lay- 
ers of sauce and fish until the dish is full ; 
cover it with bread-crumbs, sprinkle a 
little butter over, and bake for about 
half an hour, 

127.— COD OAIELETTE. 

Break into small pieces the thickest 
parts of a dressed cod, .season it with a 
little grated nutmeg and a little pounded 
mace, beat up six eggs well and mix with 
it, forming it into a paste, fry it as an 
omelette, and serve as hot as possible. 

128.— FISH CAKE. 

Take the meat from the bones of any 
kind of cold fish, which latter put with 
the head and fins into a stewpan with a 
pint of water, a little salt, pepper, an on- 
ion, and a fagot of sweet herbs to stew 
for gr^vy. Mince the meat, and mix it 
well with crumbs of bread and cold po- 
tatoes (equal parts), a little parsley and 
seasoning. Make into a cake, with the 
white of an egg, or a little butter or 
milk ; egg it over and cover with bread- 
crumbs, then fry a little brown. Pour 
the gravy over, and stew gently fifteen 
minutes, stirring it carefully twice or 
.thrice. Serve hot, and garnish with 
slices of lemon, or parsley. 

129.— TO COOK SlIEEPSHEAD. 

Rub it with salt and lemon before put- 




Fried Whiting, 
ting it into the water. To every six 



quarts of water add one pound of salt. 
Boil a twentj' pound fish twenty min- 
utes. Serve on a napkin ; garnish with 
parsley, and eat it with shrimp or lob- 
ster sauce. 

180.— WHITING AND GRATIN. 
Skin the whitings, and turn their tails 
into their mouths ; put them into a but- 
tered sauti';p:m, witli a table-spoonful of 
chopped onions and four of brown sauce 
over each ; sprinkle over them bread- 
crumbs and butter, and bake in a mode- 
rate oven half an hour. Dress them on 
a dish without a napkin. Put twelve 
table-spoonfuls more brown sauce into 
the pan. with a tea-spoonful of chopped 
mushrooms, one of chopped parsley, one 
of essence of anchovy ; pepper, salt, and 
sugar a little ; pour round the dish, and 
brown it with a salamandei'. 

131.-HALIBUT. 

Halibut should be cut into slices of 
four pounds each, and may be baked or 
fried. The skin on the back must be 
scored. When haked, use a sufficient 
quantity of butter to keep it moist. If 
boiled^ lay it in the kettle on a strainer, 
cover it with salted \\ ater ; boil it slowly 
half or three-quarters of an hour and skim 
it well. Garnish it with horseradish, 
serve it with melted butter. To fry hal- 
ibut, cut it in slices less than an inch 
thick ; and with this, as with all other 
fish, take care to have plenty of butter, 
lard, or oil in the pan, and that it be hot 
before the fish is put in. 

132.— HALIBUT— STEWED. 

Put into a stewpan half a pint of fish 
broth, a table-spoonful of vinegar, and 
one of mushroom ketchup ; add an ancho- 
vy, two good-sized onions cut in quarters, 
a bunch of sweet herbs, and one clove of 
garlic ; add a pint and a half of water, 
let it stew vn hour and a quarter, strain 



192 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



it off clear, put into it the head and 
shoulders of a fine halibut and stew un- 
til tender ; thicken with butter and flour, 
and serve. 

138— TO COLLOP HALIBUT. 

Cut the fish into nice cutlets of about 
an inch thick and fry them ; then put 
them into a broth made of the bones, 
four onions, a stick of celery, and a bun- 
dle of sweet herbs boiled together for 
half an hour. Strain this broth, thicken 
it, and stow the fish for half an hour, 
adding salt, pepper, a grating of nutmeg 
and pounded mace, a spoonfiil of soy or 
fish-sauce, and half that quantity of lem- 
on juice with a little shred lemon peel. 

134.— HALIBUT A LA CEfiME. 
Rub the halibut with salt and lemon ; 
put it to boil in a kettle, allowing one 
ounce of salt to every six quarts of wa- 
ter ; simmer over a moderate fire. A 
halibut of eight pounds should simmer 
twenty minutes or more. When it be- 
gins to crack slightly, lift it with a drain- 
er, and dish it without a napkin, having 
it first carefully drained, and absorbing 
the water that runs from the fish with a 
napkin. Put one pint of cream on the 
fire in a stewpan, and when near simmer- 
ing add half a pound of fresh butter ; stir 
it quickl}^ till the butter is melted, but do 
not let the cream boil ; add three yolks 
of eggs, season with salt, pepper and lem- 
on juice ; pour as much ovei' the halibut 
as will cover it, and serve the remainder 
in a boat. Or, if preferred, dish the fish 
on a napkin, garnish with parsley, and 
serve the sauce in a boat. This sauce 
must not be made until the moment it is 
wanted. 

185.— TO DRY HADDOCK 

Choose the finest you can obtain; 
clean them, remove the eyes, the entrails, 
and the gills ; clear away also all the 



blood from the backbone. Wipe them 
as dry as you can with a clean soft cloth, 
and fill in with salt the spaces which con- 
tained the eyes ; also rub in a quantity 
in the inside of the fish ; lay them in a 
cool place on a dry flag -stone, or a piece 
of board for eighteen or twenty hours, 
then hang them in a dry place. Four 
days will be found quite suiBcient to pre- 
pare them for eating. 

186.— TO DRESS DRIED HADDOCK. 

They should be skinned, rubbed with 
egg, and rolled in new bread-crumbs ; lay 
them in a dish before the fire to brown, 
baste with butter, and when well brown- 
ed serve with egg sauce. 

137. — TO DRESS HADDOCK. 
Clean them very thoroughly, and take 
off the heads and the skin ; put them 
into boiling water, throw in two moder- 
ate-sized handfuls of salt ; let them boil 
as fast as possible, and when they rise to 
the surface (which they will do, if they 
have sufficient ro.om), they are. done 
enough. They are sent to table with 
plain butter for sauce. 

138.— BAKED HADDOCK— (Soyer's.) 
FUl the interior of the fish with veal 
stuffing; sew it up with packthread, and 
truss it with the tail in its mouth, rub a 
piece of butter over the back, or egg and 
bread-crumb it over ; set it on a baking- 
dish, which put in a moderate oven to 
bake ; a common haddock would require 
but half an hour. The better plan is to 
run the point of a knife down to the back- 
bone, from which if the flesh parts easily, 
it is done ; dress it upon a dish without 
a napkin, and serve a sauce round. 

189.— TO BAKE HADDOCK. 

Cut off the heads, trim and bone them, 

season with pepper and salt ; chop very 

fine a small quantity of mu.shroom, onion 

and parsley ; spread it over the fish, la} 



on them small pieces of butter, and place 
them in a dish with crumbs of bread ; 
bake them from fifty minutes to an hour ; 
skim the gravy, and serve up in the same 
dish as that in which it was cooked. 

140.— HEBEINGS. 

Herrings are dressed in a variety of 
fashions ; they are fried, boiled, broiled, 
dried, potted, baked, smoked, pickled. 

There are three sorts of herrings, fresh, 
salted, and red herrings ; they are cleaned 
like any other sort of fish ; when fresh 
they are boiled and served with melted 
butter, white sauce, &c. ; the salted her- 
ring should be soaked in cold water be- 
fore it is cooked ; this is broiled. Some- 
times it is cut in pieces and eaten raw ; 
the red herring is split down the back, 
the head and tail taken off, and the fish 
broiled like the others ; they may be also 
dressed in the following manner : when 
they have lain in cold water some time, 
soak them in milk for two hours ; then 
split them down the back ; have ready 
Bome melted butter in which have been 
mixed basil and bay leaf minced small ; 
the yolks of two eggs, pepper and nut- 
meg ; rub the herrings well with this 
bread, then broil them over a gentle fire, 
serve with lemon juice ; the best red her- 
rings are full of roe, are firm and large, 
and have a yellow cast ; of the fresh her- 
rings the scales are bright ; if good, the 
eye is full and the gill red; the fish 
should be stiff. 

141.— FEESH HEEEINGS BAKED. 
Wash the herrings in clear spring wa- 
ter ; when they are thoroughly clean drain 
them, and then, without wiping them, lay 
them in a dish or baking pan ; pepper 
and salt them ; chop finely two or three 
onions, some parsley, thyme, and strew 
over them ; cover them with equal propor- 
tions of vinegar and small beer ; tie them 
over, and let them bake one hour in a 
slow oven. 



They should be kept in the pickle, and 
make a pleasant dish when cold. 

142.— TO POT HEEEINGS. 

Take from one to two dozen hernngs, 
according to the number you purpose 
potting ; choose them as large, fine, and 
fresh as you can. Take two ounces of 
salt, one of saltpetre, two of allspice ; re- 
duce them to an impalpable powder, and 
rub them well into the herrings ; let 
them remain with the spice upon them 
eight hours to drain ; wipe off the spice 
clean, and lay them in a pan on which 
butter has been rubbed ; season with 
nutmeg, mace, white pepper, salt, and one 
clove in powder, one ounce each, save the 
last ; lay in two or three bay leaves, cov- 
er with butter, and bake gently three 
hotirs. 

When cool, drain off the liquor, pack 
the fish in the pots intended for tneir use, 
cover to the depth of half an inch with 
clarified butter, sufiiciently melted just 
to run, but do not permit it to be hot ; 
they will be ready for eating in two days. 

143.— POTTED HEEEING. 
Take off" the heads and tails ; clean the 
fish and shake salt on them to draw out 
the blood ; leave them one night, then 
rub them with black pepper and allspice. 
Pack them in a tin pan ; put slices of 
onions and bay leaves between the layers, 
and pour on vinegar enough to cover 
them. Lay over them a sheet of butter- 
ed paper, or a crust of oatmeal bread; 
bake them till the bones are dissolved. 
A little mace, whole pepper, and butter 
improve them. 

144.— TO STEW MACKEEEL— (New Way.) 
Take off the heads, the fins, the tails, 
and, having opened the fish, and taken 
out all the hard roes, dry them with a 
cloth, and dredge them lightly with 
flour ; place three or four of them in a 



194 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



stewpan, with a lump of butter the size 
of a walnut, to each fish ; put into a 
Bmall basin a teacupful of water, a table- 
spoonful of finely chopped onions, the 
same of chopped parsley, a blade or two 
of mace, a little pepper and salt, a table- 
spoonful of anchovy essence, and a small 
teacupful of ale or porter (if not bitter). 
Add a tablespoonful of grated bread-crust, 
not burnt, but a light brown : pour all 
these ingredients over the fish, and let 
them stew gently for twenty minutes ; 
have ready the yolks of three eggs, well 
beaten, and when the fish is sufiiciently 
done, take some of the gravy and mix 
gradually with the eggs, and, pouring 
them on the fish, shake the stewpan a 
little over the fire to thicken the whole, 
but not to curdle the eggs ; the soft roes 
added are an improvement : have ready 
more grated crust, and having placed the 
fish whole in the dish, shake a little of 
the grated crust over the whole, so as to 
make it of a handsome brown. The re- 
ceipt requires to be carefully followed. 
If the gravy is too thick, more water 
may be added ; also a glass of sherry, if 
liked. 

145.— MACKEEEL 

Are generally served up plain boiled ; 
put them in a kettle containing enough 
boiling water according to the number, 
well salted ; let simmer nearly half an 
hour, take them up, drain, and dish them 
upon a napkin ; serve melted butter in a 
boat, with which you have mixed a table- 
spoonful of chopped fennel, boiling it a 
few minutes. 

146.— MACKEEEL. 
Cleanse the fish thoroughly inside and 
out, remove the roe carefully, steep it in 
vinegar and water, and replace it ; place 
the fish in water from which the chill 
has been taken, and boil very slowly, 
from fifteen to twenty minutes ; the best 
criterion is to be found in the starting of 



the eyes and splitting of the tail, when 
that takes place the fish is done ; take it 
out of the water instantly^ or you will 
not preserve it whole. Garnish with 
fennel or parsley, and serve up as sauce, 
either, chopped tine in melted butter. 
Gooseberry sauce is occasionally sent to 
table, but it does not suit every palate. 

An English cook says : They should be 
carefully cleaned both inside and out ; 
then washed in vinegar and water, and 
left to hang a little to dry before being 
put into the fish-kettle. A handful of 
salt should be put into the water, which 
should be at first cold, and only allowed 
to boil gently from fifteen to twenty 
minutes, though some prefer having the 
water boiling hot. The fish should be 
watched about that time, as " when the 
eye starts and the tail splits they are 
done, and should be immediately taken 
up ; if left in the water they will break." 

The most customary sauce is that of 
fennel, which has partly supei'seded the 
gooseberry ; but parsley and butter are 
still in use. 

To Broil. — Split them down the back, 
rub the inside with a little vinegar 
sprinkled with pepper and salt, floirr 
them, broil on a quick fire, and serve 
them up with melted buttei-, parsley, 
fennel, or lemon sauce. Or, if intended 
for breakfast, send up the fish plainly 
iroiled without .condiments or sauce, and 
merely rubbed, when done, with a bit of 
butter. 



147.— TO EOAST SHAD- (Sea-shore Receipt.) 
Split your fish down the back after he 
is cleansed and washed ; nail the halves 
on shingles or shortboard ; stick them 
erect in pie sand round a large fire ; as 
soon as they are well browned, serve on 
whatever you have ; eat with cold butter, 
black pepper, salt, and a good appetite. 
(This is a delicious way of cooking this 
fish.) 




148.— FOE PRESERVING SHAD. 

Place the shad, cleaned and washei^, 
on a layer of salt in the bottom of the 
vessel, alternating the layers of shad and 
salt ; the salt covering the top ones. 
Leave them twenty-four hours ; then 
take them out and wipe them dry. For 
fifty shad, make a pickle of quarter of a 
pound of saltpetre and a pound of brown 
sugar mixed with salt enough to cure the 
fish ; put the shad in alternate layers 
with this dry preparation ; and put them 
away. AVhen a shad is taken out to 
cook, it should be soaked a few hours 
before broiling. 

149.— TO BEOIL A SHAD. 

Shad should be well washed and dried. 
It maybe cut in half and broiled, or j'ou 
may split it open and lay a small quan- 
tity of salt over it, and la)^ it upon a grid- 
iron well buttered. It will broil in 
about twenty minutes, and should be 
thoroughly done. Melted butter may 
be served in a sauce-boat with it. Shad 
is even more palatable when baked than 
broiled. To hale Shad it should be stuff- 
ed with mashed potatoes and chopped 
parsley. Lay it in the oven on a pan 
which is well covered with butter 
chopped in pieces ; baste the fish with 
the butter and add fresh quantities as 
fast as it is absorbed. Half or three- 
quarters of a pound of butter should be 
used for large-sized shad. 

150.— TO EOAST PIKE— (Soycr.) 

This fish, in France, is found daily on 
the tables of the fish epicures. It is 
usually baked, when dressed plain. 
Having cleaned the fish, stuff it, and sew 
the belly up; butter a saucepan, (a shal- 
low frjnng-pan,) put the fish into it, and 
place it in the oven for an hour or more, 
according to the size ; when done, dish 
it without a napkin, and pour anchovy 
sauce round it. The fish, before baking, 



should be trussed with its tail in its 
mouth, and have four incisions cut in 
each side, and well buttered over. 

151.— FISH CAKES. 
Cold boiled fre.sh fish, or salt codfish 
is nice minced fine, with potatoes, moist- 
ened with a little water, and a little 
butter put in, done up into cakes of the 
size of common biscuit, and fried brown 
in pork -fat or butter. 

152.— TO COOK CAEP. 

Scour a fresh caught carp, and rub 
clean with salt and water ; but scale him 
not ; open him, and put him, with his 
blood and liver into a small pot; take a 
handful of sweet marjoram, thyme, or 
parsley, a sprig of rosemary and another 
of savory. Bind them in small bundles, 
and add them to the carp, with four or 
five whole onions, twcnt}^ pickled oysters, 
and three anchovies. Pour on claret 
wine enough to cover the carp seasoned 
with salt, cloves, mace and lemon-poel. 
Cover the pot, and set it on a quick fire. 
When done, take out the carp, lay it 
with the broth into a dish. Pour over 
it a quarter of a pound of butter, melted 
and beaten with six spoonfuls of the 
broth, the yolks of two or three eggs, 
and some of the herbs shred ; garnish 
the dish with 'lemons, and serve up, and 
much good to you. 

153. _TO COOK TEOUT. 
(Frank Forrester's Method.) 

This is the method of the woods, and 
in the woods I learned it : The trout 
must be cooked in the open air, by a 
wood fire on the ground, or a charcoal 
fire in a small Boston furnace 

Clean and scale your fish ; open, clean 
and wash the inside ; for a pound fish 
take two small skewers of red cedar 
wood ; upon each thread a piece of fat 
salt pork half an inch square ; with 



196 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



these fasten the belly of the fish asun- 
der, annex him by the tail to a twig of 
pliant wood, which suffer to bend over 
the fire so as to bring the fish opposite 
to the blaze ; place a large biscuit, or 
a thin slice of dry toast, under tlie drip 
of the gravy ; cook quickly. For a two 
pound fish ten minutes will suffice ; dish 
with the biscuit under him, and eat with 
salt and lemon-juice, or with shrimp or 
lobster sauce ; or a dash of Worcester- 
shire or Harvey sauce ; though I think 
these bad taste. 

154.— TO DRESS PICKEREL— (Nobbs.) 

Open and rub the fish within with salt 
and claret wine ; save the milt and a little 
of the bloody fat ; cut him in two or three 
pieces, and put him into boiling water, 
with sweet maijoram, savorj^, thyme, or 
fennel, and a good handful of salt. Boil 
nearly half an hour. For the sauce, take 
butter, anchovies, horseradish, claret 
wine, a little of the blood, shalot, or gar- 
lic, and lemon sliced ; beat all together, 
and serve. 

155.— STEWED CARP. 

Three carps will make a dish ; put 
them in a baking-dish, cut up in thin 
pieces a carrot, turnip, onion, celery, a 
fagot of sweet hei'bs, a bay -leaf, a little 
mace, six cloves, whole pepper, some 
good second stock, six anchovies, half a 
pint of port wine ; boil all this together, 
pour it over the carp while hot, put but- 
tered paper over them, do them in the 
oven ; when done, strain off the stock 
from the fish and thicken it, strain it 
through a tammy, add a glass more port 
wine, season it with sugar, lemon-juice, 
cayenne pepper, and salt. 

156.— SOLES, FRIED. 

Have about four pounds of lard or 

clean fat in a small fish-kettle, which 

place. over a moderate fire ; cut off the 

fins of the sole, and dip it into flour, 



skake part of the flour off", have an egg 
well beaten upon a plate, with which 
brush the fish all over, and cover it with 
fine bread-crumbs ; ascertain if the lard 
is hot, by throwing in a few bread- 
crumbs ; it will hiss if sufficiently hot ; 
put in the fish, which will require nearly 
ten minutes' cooking, and ought to be 
perfectly crisp ; drain it on a cloth, dish 
upon a napkin, garnish with parsley, and 
serve with shrimp sauce in a boat. 

The above quantity of lard or fat, if 
carefully used and not burnt, would do 
for several occasions, by straining it ofi" 
each time after using. All kinds of fish, 
such as eels, smelts, whitings, flounders, 
perch, gudgeons, &c., are fried precisely 
in the same manner. Regulate the time 
according to the size of your fish. 

157.— PIKE. 

Clean and stuff the interior as directed 
for haddocks, only adding some fillets of 
anchovies, if handy, and chopped lemon- 
peel with it ; curl round and put in a 
baking-dish, spread a little butter all 
over, put in a moderate oven ; when 
about half done egg over with a paste- 
brush, and sprinkle bread-crumbs upon 
it ; a middling-sized pike will take about 
an hour, but that according to the size 
and the heat of the oven ; when done, 
dress upon a dish without a napkin, and 
sauce round as directed for baked had- 
dock. 

158.— TO FRY SMELTS. 

Dry them slightly in a cloth, and dip 
them in flour ; then have half an ounce 
of butter or clear fat melted in a basin, 
into which break the yolk of two eggs, 
with which rub the smelts over with a 
brush, dip them in bread-crumbs, fry in 
very hot lard, dress them on a napkin, 
garnish with parsley, and serve with 
shrimp sauce in a boat. 

159.— BROILED SMELTS. 

When cleansed and wiped dry with a 



cloth, dip them lightly into flour, and 
put them upon a gridiron over a slow 
fire, for five or six minutes, turning them 
carefully when half done; serve plain, 
or with a little sauce. They are much 
relished by sick persons. 1 can highly 
recommend any kind of white fish cook- 
ed in this manner ; and it is well known 
that nothing in the way of food is more 
digestible than fish. 

Water souchet of flounders, soles, and 
slips may also be served to invalids, by 
proceeding the same as above. 

160.— STURGEON CUTLET8. 
Cut in slices one-quarter inch thick; 
dry, flour, and egg them ; dip them in 
crumbs, seasoned with pepper, salt, pars- 
ley, and thyme ; fry them, and serve 
with Indian pickle, tomato, or piquant 
sauce. 



161.— TO STEV STTTRGEON. 
Cut the fish in slices one and a half 
inch thick, dip them in vinegar, dry them 
well, flour, and broil the slices; then 
flour and lay them in a stewpan with 
some good broth, and let them stew 
gently until perfectly tender ; thicken 
the gravy with butter or cream, add a 
spoonful of Harvey's sauce, one-half a 
glass of wine, and serve it up with ca- 
pers strewed over the top, and garnished 
with slices of lemon. 



162.— ECONOMICAL MODE OF COOKING 
STURGEON. 

Take a piece of sturgeon about two 
pounds' weight, and on sending a piece of 
meat to the baker's to be baked on a 
stand in a dish, put the sturgeon under 
it, with a little water, salt, pepper, &c., 
and a little chopped eschalot may be 
used ; you can also put potatoes round 
it. Peas, if in season, are a good accom- 
paniment, with melted butter. 
13 



163.— SHRIMP TOAST— CROUTE AUX CRE- 

VELLES— (French.) 

Boil five pints of shrimps, and as soon 
as they are cold shell them ; take the 
heads and bruise them in a mortar, put 
them into barely a quart of water, and 
let them boil an hour, strain them very 
clear, and add three parts to half the 
quantity*of good veal stock. Put into 
a stewpan a lump of butter the size of 
an egg, and when it has commenced to 
bubble, stir in one teaspoonful of flour, 
a little grated nutmeg, a sprinkling of 
cayenne, and a small quantity of mace, 
the fourth of a teaspoonful ; when this 
browns, pour in the stock gradually, add- 
ing a glass of vin de Bordeaux, and let 
it boil, then add the shrimps, cut off" the 
bottom crust of a French loaf, hollow 
out the crumb, and fry the crust in fresh 
butter until a golden brown ; as soon as 
the shrimps are thoroughly heated, which 
will be in about three or four minutes, 
pour them into the hollowed toast. 

164— SMELTS.— (English). 

This is a very delicate fish, requires 
delicate handling, and is quickly cooked ; 
draw through the gills and wipe -VAith a 
soft cloth, but do not wash them ; dip 
them into the yolk of an egg beaten very 
smooth, and sprinkle them with bread- 
crumbs as finely as they can be powder- 
ed, a little flour may be mixed with the 
bread-crumbs ; fry them a clear light 
brown ; four minutes will suffice to cook 
them. 

The French method of serving is to 
skewer six through the gills with a sil- 
ver skewer, and serve them in sixes. If 
dished, lay them head and tail alternate- 
ly, serve with melted butter and garnish 
with parsley. 

165.— TO BAKE SMELTS. 
Prepare as above, and instead of 
strewing forcemeat over them, employ 



198 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



only bread crumbs, and moisten . with 
clarified butter ; mix in addition to the 
gravy a glass of JMadeira, with a dash 
of anchovies ; this must be added be- 
fore the smelts are laid in. They will 
be done in ten minutes. 

1G6.— TPvOUT. 
Scale, gut, clean, dry, and flour, fry 
them in butter until thej^ are a rich clear 
brown, fry some green parsley crisp, and 
make some plain melted butter, put in 
one teaspoonful of essence of anchovy, 
and one glass of white wine ; garnish 
when the trout are dished with the crisp- 
ed parsley and lemon cut in slices ; the 
butter may be poured over the fish, but 
it is most advisable to send it in a but- 
ter tureen. 

167.— TO FKY TEOUT. 

Scale, gut, and clean them ; take out 
the gills ; egg and crumb them ; then fry 
in lard or oil until of a light brown. 
Serve with anchovy-sauce and sliced 
lemon. 

16S.-IN THE FOEElCfN MODE. 

Cover the bottom of a small oval pa- 
per form with a few very thin slices of 
fat bacon ; cut down the back some nice- 
ly-washed small trout, and, having re- 
moved the bones, ]ay the fish open, flat 
upon the bacon ; sprinkle with chopped 
parsley, pepper, salt, a little mace, and 
two cloves finely pounded. Bake one- 
half hour in a quick oven, and serve in 
paper. 

169-TPvUITE 1 LA GENEVOISE. 

Clean the fish as above, lay them in a 
Btewpan with two glasses of champagne, 
two glasses of sherry, a fagot of pjfrsley, 
an onion stuck with cloves, thyme, pep- 
per, and salt, and a piece of the well 
baked ciust of French bread ; stew on a 



quick fire, take out the bread when the 
fish is done, brown it, mix in butter roll- 
ed in flour, and boil up to thicken the 
sauce ; the fish having been taken out 
when done, pour over them the thicken- 
ed sauce, serve with lemon sliced and 
fried bread. 

170.— TKUITE A Lk PEINCESSE EOTALE. 

Take equal parts of Madeira and 
water, and let them come to a boil, having 
emptied, cleansed, washed,- and wiped per- 
fectly dry the trout ; lay them in ; they 
should only be just covered with the li- 
quor, and will be done in twenty minutes 
if not boiled too fast ; take out the fish 
and thicken vv'ith a piece of butter rolled in 
flour ; add two well beaten eggs with one 
teaspoonful of cream to the sauce, pour- 
ing them from one vessel to another un- 
til they are of a creamy consistency; 
season with salt, pour the sauce upon 
the fish, and serve. 

171.— TEOUT A LA TWICKENHAM. 

When you have cleaned your trout, 
put them into a kettle of boiling water, 
to which you have added a good handful 
of salt, and a wine-glassful of vinegar; 
boil gently about twenty minutes, or ac- 
cording to their size ; dress upon a nap- 
kin, and serve melted butter, into which 
you have put a table-spoonful of chopped 
gherkins, two sprigs of chopped parsley, 
salt and pepper, in a boat. 

The remains of trout, salmon, or mack- 
erel, are excellent pickled: — put three 
onions in slices in a stewpan, with two 
ounces of butter, one turnip, a bouquet 
of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaf, pass 
them five minutes over the fire, add a 
pint of water and a pint of vinegar, two 
tcaspoonfuls of salt and one of pepper; 
boil until the onions are tender, then 
strain it through a sieve over the fish ; 
it will keep some time if required, and 



then do to pickle more fish by boiling 
over again. 

172. -TROUT STEWED. 

This is a pleasing and delicate fish 
when nicely stewed. It is dressed very 
much in the fashion of other small fish 
stewed, only that it requires perhaps 
more care in the different processes. 

First wash and clean the fish, wipe it 
perfectly dry ; put into a stewpan two 
ounces of butter, dredge in as it melts, 
flour, and add grated nutmeg, a little 
mace, and a little cayenne. Stew well, 
and when fluid and thoroughly mixed, 
lay in the fish, which, having sufiered to 
slightly brown, cover with a pint of veal 
gravy; throw in a little salt, a small 
fagot of parsley, a few rings of lemon- 
peel ; stew slowly forty minutes ; take 
out the fish, strain the gravy clear and 
pour it over the fish ; it maj- be strained 
over it ; before however, it is poured over ; 
a glass of bucellas may be added to the 
gravy. 

173.— TUEBOT. 
Place the turbot, previously to cook- 
ing, to soak in salt and water in which a 
little vinegar has been poured; lay it 
upon its back in the fish-kettle, fill the 
latter three parts full with cold water, 
throw in a handful of salt, a gill of vine- 
gar, let it boil very gi'adually, and when 
it boils, add cold water to check ; thirty 
minutes are suflQcient to cook it ; serve it 
upon a cloth as boiled with its back to 
the dish ; garnish tastefully with sprigs 
of parsley, and horseradish scraped into 
curls, or with fried smelts, or barberries, 
and parsley. Lobster sauce. 

174.— TURBOT A LA CEilME 
Is made from the remains of a turbot 
left from a previous dinner : pick all the 
flesh from the bones, which warm in salt 
and water, and have ready the following 
sauce : put one ounce of flour into a stew- 



pan, to which add by degrees a quart of 
milk, mixing it very smoothly ; then 
add two peeled eschalots, a bouquet of 
parsley, a bay-leaf and a sprig of thyme 
tied together ; add a little grated nutmeg, 
a teaspoonful of salt and a quarter ditto 
of pepper ; place it over the fire, stirring 
until it forms a thickish sauce; then 
take it from the fire, stir in a quarter of 
a pound of fresh butter, and pass it 
through a tammy ; lay a little of it upon 
the bottom of a convenient-sized dish, 
then a layer of the fish ; season lightly 
with a little white pepper and salt, then 
another layer of sauce, proceeding thus 
until the fish is all used, finishing with 
sauce ; sprinkle a few bread-crumbs over, 
and put it into a warm oven half an hour ; 
brown with the salamander, and serve 
upon the dish it is baked on. Any re- 
mains of boiled fish may be dressed the 
same way. 

175.— CRIMPED SALMON— 1 LA CR:6ME. 

The salmon, like cod, must be quite 
fresh or it will not crimp. Cut the body 
into slices about two inches thick ; have 
ready some salt and water in the propor- 
tion of three ounces of salt to a quart of 
water, with the smallest knob of salt- 
petre about the size of a nut ; dip the sal- 
mon slices into this as they are cut, hold 
them for half a minute, and then rinse 
them in clear cold spring water, and lay 
them upon a dish ; put a lump of butter 
well rubbed in flour into a stewpan ; while 
the butter is melting sprinkle in a little 
salt and cayenne, and when the butter is 
on the simmer stir in half a pmt of cream, 
keep stirring, and as it boils squeeze in 
the juice of a quarter of a lemon, and stir 
in a large teaspoonful of essence of an- 
chovies ; add a little more salt to taste. 

Having boiled the crimped salmon slices 
in quick boiling water ten minutes, take 
them out and let them drain one minute, 
put them in a clean stewpan, and pour 



200 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



over the prepuied cream and let it sim- 
mer ten minutes ; it should not if possible 
be suffered to boil. 

The lemon juice is sometimes deferred 
until the fish is removed from the cream. 
a minute's simmer is allowed, and it is 
then all poured over the salmon and sent 
very hot to table. 

176.— TO BOIL SALMON. 
(Frank Forrester's own receipt.) 

If you are ever so lucky as to catch a 
salmon, where incontinently you can pro- 
ceed to cook him — that is to say, in the 
wilderness, within ten yards of the door 
of your own shantee, with the fire burn- 
ing and the pot boiling — good. 

Stun him by a heavy blow on the head ; 
crimp him by a succession of cuts on each 
side, through the muscle, quite down to 
the back-bone, with a very sharp knife, 
in slashes parallel to the gill cover. 
Then place him for ten minutes in a cold 
spring, or under the jet of a waterfall. 
Meanwhile, keep your pot boiling, nay, 
screeching with intense heat, filled with 
brine strong enough to bear an egg. 
Therein immerse him, having cut out the 
gills, open the belly, and wash the inside ; 
boil him at the rate of seven minutes and 
a half to the pound ; dish him, and serv- 
ing him with no sauce, save a tureenful 
of the water in which he has been boiled, 
proceed to eat him, with no other condi- 
ments than a little salt and the slightest 
squeeze of a lemon. I do not object to 
cucumber sliced very fine, with a dressing 
of oil, three tablespoonfuls to one of vine- 
gar, salt and black pepper to taste ; but 
I regard green peas, or any vegetable, 
with this grand fish, as a Cockney abomi- 
nation. 

ITT.-SOYEE'S RECEIPT— SALMON AU 
NATUEEL. 

Clean and prepare as before ; but if he 
be not fresh enough to crimp, scale him 
and proceed as follows : 



Put your fish in cold water, using a 
pound of salt to every six quarts ; let it 
be well covered, and set it over a moder- 
ate fire; when it begins to simmer, set it 
on one side the fire. If the fish weigh 
four pounds, let it simmer half an hour ; 
if eight, three-quarters, and so on in pro- 
portion ; dish it on a napkin, and serve 
lobster or shrimp sauce in a bowl. 

178.— TO BOIL SALMON. 
Salmon is dressed in various ways, but 
chiefly boiled in large pieces of a few 
pounds' weight. The middle piece is 
considered, if not the riche.'^t, yet the 
most sightly; then that adjoining the 
jowl ; the tail part, though nearly as 
good, being usually kept for steaks. It 
requires great attention, and the boiling 
must be checked more than once ; a piece 
of four to five pounds, will take nearly 
an hour, but if double that weight will 
not require more than twenty minutes 
beyond that time, and if crimped, still 
less will be sufficient : let it, however, 
boil slowly, in the hardest water, on a 
strainer placed in a large fish-kettle, and 
be thoroughly done, for nothing is more 
disgusting than fish that is under cooked ; 
skim it well, or the color will be bad ; 
the moment it is ready, lift up the strain- 
er and rest it across the kettle, that the 
fish may drain ; cover it with a thick 
cloth. 

179.— TO BAKE S.VLMON. 
Scale it, and take out the bone from 
the part to be dressed, but fill up the 
cavity with forcemeat, and bind the 
piece with tape. Then flour it, rub it with 
yolk of egg, and put it into a deep baking- 
dish, covering it very thickly with crumbs 
of bread, chopped parsley, and sweet herbs, 
together with shrimps, if they can be got, 
and put into the covering a few small , 
bits of fresh butter; place it in a Dutch 
oven, or, if already boiled and thus re- 



dressed, heat it only before the fire until 
browned. 

180.— SALMON, PLAIN BOILED— (Soyer.) 
I prefer always dressing this fish in 
slices from an inch to two inclies in thick- 
ness, boiling it in plenty of salt and water 
about twenty minutes; the whole fish 
may be boiled, or the head and shoulders 
of a large fish, but they require longer 
boiling. Salmon eats finner by not 
being put into the water until boiling. 
Dress the fish upon a napkin, and serve 
with lobster sauce, shrimp ditto, or 
plain melted butter in a boat with 
fresh sprigs of parsley boiled a few 
minutes in it. A salmon weighing about 
ten pounds will require an hour's gentle 
boiling ; a head and shoulders weighing 
six pounds, half an hour ; the remains 
may be dressed a la cremc, as directed 
for turbot. 

181.— SALMON— TO BOIL. 
This fish cannot be too soon cooked 
after being caught ; it should be put into 
a kettle with plenty of cold water, and a 
handful of salt ; the addition of a small 
quantity of vinegar will add to the firm- 
ness of the fish ; let it boil gently ; if 
four pounds of salmon, fifty minutes will 
sufiice ; if thick, a few minutes more 
may be allowed. The best criterion for 
ascertaining whether it be done, is to 
pass a knife between the bone and the 
fish ; if it separates readilj^, it is done ; 
this should be tried in the thickest part ; 
when cooked lay it on the fish strainer 
transversely across the kettle, so that 
the fish while draining may be kept hot. 
Place a fish plate upon the dish on which 
the salmon is to be served ; fold a clean 
white napkin, lay it upon the fish plate, 
and place the salmon upon the napkin. 
Garnish with parsley. 

182.— BROILED SALMON. 

Dip each piece in flour, put it on a grid- 
iron, turn occasionally ; fifteen minutes 



will give it a nice pale yellow color ; it 
should be served with Dutch, or caper 
sauce. 

• 183.- SALMON BEOILED. 
Cut the fish in slices from the best 
part, each slice should be an inch thick ; 
season well with pepper and salt ; wrap 
each slice in white paper, which has been 
buttered with fresh butter ; fasten each 
end by twisting or tying ; broil over a 
very clear fire eight minutes. A coke 
fire, if kept clear and blight is best. Serve 
with butter, anchovy, or tomato sauce. 

184.— DEIED SALMON BEOILED. 
Cut and cook as above, save that when 
it is warmed through, it is enough. Serve 
plain for breakfast, or with egg sauce if 
for dinner. 

185.— TO DRY SALMON. 
Cut the fish down, take out the inside 
and roe, rub the whole with common salt 
after scaling it ; let it hang twenty-four 
hours to drain. Pound three or four 
ounces of saltpetre, according to the size 
of the fish, two ounces of bay salt, and 
two ounces of coarse sugar ; rub these, 
when mixed well, into the salmon, and 
lay it in a large dish or tray two days ; 
then rub it well with common salt, and 
in twenty-four hours more it will be fit 
to dry ; wipe it well after draining. Hang 
it either in a wood chimney or in a dry 
place, keeping it open with two small 
sticks. Dried salmon is eaten broiled in 
paper, and only just warmed through, 
egg-sauce and mashed potatoes with it ; 
or it may be boUed, especially the part 
next the head. 

186.— TO PICKLE SALMON.— The Newcastle 
Method. 

Put any quantity of salmon into an 
earthen jar ; cover it with equal parts of 
good vinegar and water; add cayenne 
pepper and salt in proportion to the fish, 
and bake it in a moderate oven. This 



202 



THE PRACTICAIi HOUSEKEEPER. 



pickle will keep a long time, with the ad- 
dition of a little fresh vinef^ar; and if 
mace or cloves be added, with a few bay- 
leaves laid in the mouth of the jar, it will 
be found an improvement. Trout may 
be preserved the same waj'. Fish thus 
pickled, must not be washed previOusl}', 
but rubbed with a dry cloth. 

Though generally eaten cold, yet in 
Newcastle it is ilot unfrequently warmed 
up in its pickle-liquor.* 

1S7.-SALM0N— TO PICKLE UNDRESSED. 
Scale the fish, rub well with a cloth, 
and scrape away all the blood about the 
backbone, but do not wash it ; cut oil" the 
head, and divide the fish into pieces about 
six inches long ; then boil the pieces in a 
pickle made of equal parts of vinegar and 
water, with a few cloves and two or 
three blades of mace until done. Skim 
carefully all the time the fish is boiling, 
and when done remove the fish and pour 
the liquor into a jar or tub. so that both 
may become cold; when cold, put the 
fish into the liquor, with one-third more 
vinegar, and some whole pepper. 

188.— SALMON SOTTED. 

Cut a handsome piece from the middle 
of the salmon ; remove the scales, and 
wipe it with a clean cloth. Rub into it 
some common salt thoroughly. 

Beat up some mace, cloves, and whole 
pepper ; season the salmon with it ; place 
it in a pan with a few bay leaves ; cover 
it with butter, and bake it until thorough- 
ly done ; remove it from the gravy, let- 
ting it drain thoroughly, then place it in 
the pots. Clarify sufficient butter to 
cover all the pots after the salmon has 
been put into them ; put it to cool. 

189.-TO PICKLE SALMON. 
Scale, clean, split, and divide into hand- 
some pieces the salmon ; place them in 



the bottom of a stewpan, with just suffi- 
cient water to cover them. 

Put into three quarts of water one pint 
of vinegar, a dozen bay leaves, half that 
quantity of mace, a handful of salt, and 
a fourth part of an ounce of black peppei , 

W hen the salmon is suESciently boiled 
remove it, drain it, place it upon a cloth. 
Put in the kettle another layer of salmon ; 
pour over it the liquor which you have 
prepared, and keep it until the salmon is 
done. Then remove the fish, place it in 
a deep dish or pan, cover it with the pic- 
kle, which, if not sufiiciently acid, may 
receive more vinegar and salt, and be 
boiled forty minutes. Let the air be 
kept from the fish, and, if kept for any 
length of time it will be found necessary 
to occasionally drain the liquor from the 
fish 5 skim, and boil it. 

190.— COLLARED SALMON. 
Cut off the head and shoulders, and 
the thinnest part of the tail, thus leaving 
the primest part of the salmon to be col- 
lared. Split it, and having washed and 
wiped it well, make a compound of cay- 
enne pepper, white pepper, a little salt, 
and some povmded mace. Rub the fish 
well with this mixture inside and out ; 
roll and bandage with broad tape ; lay 
it in a saucepan ; cover it with water and 
vinegar, one part of the latter to two of 
the former ; add a table-spoonful of pep- 
per, black and white whole, two bay 
leaves, and some salt. Keep the lid 
closed down. Simmer until enough, 
strain ofi" the liquor ; let it cool ; pour 
over the fish when cold, garnish with 
fennel. 

191.— COLLARED EELS. 
The eels destined to be dressed as 
above should be the fine-^t which can be 
selected : the skin must not be removed, 
but the bone must be carefully and cle- 
verly extracted. Sp: ead out the fish, 



and with some finely chopped sage, pars- 
ley, and mixed spices, rub the fish well 
over ; then take some broad white tape, 
bmd up the fish tightly ; throw a good 
handful of salt into the water in which 
it is to be boiled, and a couple of bay 
leaves. Boil three-quarters of an hour, 
and if the fish be taken out aud hung to 
dry for twelve hours, it will be the better 
for it when served. Add to the water 
in which the fish has been boiled a pint 
of vinegar, a little whole pepper, some 
knotted marjoram or thyme. This pickle 
also should, after boiling about twelve 
minutes, be suffered to stand as long as 
the eels are recommended to be hung ; 
previous to serving, the fish must be un- 
rolled so as to abrase the skin as little as 
possible, and put them into the pickle. 
Send up in shoes or whole, accprding to 
taste ; garnish with parsley. 

192— EELS BREAD CEUMBED. 

Cut into pieces same length as above, 
cleaned nicely and well dried ; let them 
be coated with yolk of egg, powdered 
with bread crumbs ; fry them brown ; 
serve with parsley and butter. Garnish 
with handsome sprigs of parsley. 

193.— SPITCnCOCKED EELS. 
There are several ways to spitchcock 
eels. They are either broiled or stewed. 
To broil them, see that the gridiron is 
cleansed and rubbed with suet, to prevent 
the adhesion of the skin of the fish, 
which must be suflFered to remain on ; 
cut the eels, which should be large, into 
lengths of six or seven inches, not less, 
and coat them well with yolk of egg. 
Pound in a mortar, pai'sley, nutmeg, mace, 
cloves, and pepper ; this should be rubbed 
over the fish, and they should be broiled 
a clear brown ; serve with melted butter, 
fish sauce, according to palate. 

194.— EELS FRIED. 

Cut your eels into pieces three inches 



long, trim them, dip the pieces into flour, 
egg over with a paste-brush, and throw 
them into some bread-crumbs ; fry in 
hot lard as directed for fried soles. 

195.— EELS A LA TAETARE. 
Fry as directed above, and serve on 
some Tartare sauce ; or partly stew first, 
and, when cold, egg, bread-crumb, and 
broil gently. This last I much prefer. 

196.-STEWED EELS. 

Procure as large eels as possible, which 
cut into pieces three inches long, and put 
them into a stewpan, with an onion, a 
bouquet of two bay-leaves, a sprig of 
thyme and parsley, six cloves, a blade of 
mace, a glass of sherry, and two of water ; 
place the stewpan over a moderate fire, 
and let simmer about twenty minutes, 
or according to the size of the eels ; when 
done, drain upon a cloth, dress them in 
pyramid upon a dish without a napkin, 
with a matelote sauce over, made as 
directed for salmon sauce matelote, but 
using the stock your eels have been cook- 
ed in to make the sauce, having previous- 
ly well boiled it to extract all the fat. 

197.— EEL PIE. 

Take six skinned eels, remove the 
heads, and cut them into pieces four 
inches long ; add two dozen oysters, boil 
them together in a very little water ; 
take out the oysters, and bone the eels 
by passing them through a sieve* 

Take six hard boiled eggs, parsley, 
fried herbs, lemon-peel, black pepper, 
salt, mace, nutmeg, and allspice; the 
whole ground very fine ; add these to 
the eels and oysters with the broth and a 
bit of fresh butter. 

Take a large, deep dish, of yellow 
earthen ware ; put the mass into it, and 
cover the dish with a fine pastry crust. 
Bake it in a very hot oven from half an 
hour to three-quarters according to the 
heat. 



204 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



198— SHELL FISH. 

Although crabs and lobsters may be 
bought the whole year round, they are 
yet only in high season, from the month 
of July till the close of October. They 
should be always purchased alive. 

If lobsters have not been long taken, 
the claws will have a strong motion when 
you put your finger on the eyes and 
press them. The heaviest, if of good 
size, are the best, but the largest are not 
the best. When you buy them ready 
boiled, try whether their tails are stiff, 
and pull up with a spring ; if otherwise, 
they are cither watery or not fresh. The 
•' cock-lohste)\^^ as the male is called, is 
known by the narrow back part of his 
tail, and the two uppermost fins within it 
are stiff and hard ; but those of the Jien 
are soft, and the tail broader. The male, 
though generally smaller, has the highest 
flavor ; the flesh is firmer, and the color, 
when boiled, is a deeper red ; but the fe- 
male has that fine coral so highly prized 
by cooks for the improvement of their 
sauces, which appears with the rudiments 
of the spawn. 



199.— TO BOIL LOBSTERS. 

Put them alive, with their claws tied 
together, into the water when boiling 
hot, and keep it so until the fish is done, 
which, if of a pound weight, will take 
about a quarter of an hour, and if larger 
will require not quite the same propor- 
tion of time, for if boiled too long the 
meat will be stringy. Many people are 
shocked at the apparent cruelty of thus 
killing them, but death takes place im- 
mediately, and life cannot be taken away 
without pain. 

When sent to table to be eaten cold, 
the tail and body sliould be split from 
end to end, the claws cracked, but not 
unshelled, and the meat may be made 
into salad, or mixed in such manner as 



each person pleases, and many persons add 
a teaspoonful of white powdered sugar, 
thinking that it gives a mellowness to 
the whole. It is scarcely necessary to 
mention that the head of a lobster, and 
what are called the " lady-fingers." are 
not to be eaten. 




Lobster as served. 
200.— TO STEW LOBSTERS. 

Pick the meat out of the shell, put it 
into a stewpan with half a pint of good 
gravy and a glass of claret ; add an onion 
minced fine, some sweet herbs, and pep- 
per and salt, stew till tender ; add a large 
spoonful of mushroom ketchup, one of 
essence of anchovy, and a lump of butter 
rolled in flour. Serve hot, and garnish 
with bread sippets. If brought on cold 
as .a supper dish, serve in a shape cover- 
ed with clear jelly. 

201.— BOILING LOBSTERS. 

Put the lobsters into boiling water, 
with a little salt, and boil them till they 
are cooked through ; the color of the 
shell is of importance, and is made bright 
by rubbing the sliell with sweet oil after 
it is wiped. Split tlie body and tail 
through, and crack the claws. It is then 
fit to go to tlie table, wliere it must be 
cut up fine before eating. A dressing, 
made of salt, nmstard, oil, cayenne pep- 
per and vinegar, mixed with the j'olk of 
an egg, is usually prepared for it. The 
white of an egg (boiled hard, of cour.-<e,) 
may be minced fine and strewn over it. 



SHELL-FISH. 



205 



202.- LOBSTER CUKEIED. 

Take the meat of a fine lobster, or 
two, if they should be small, place in a 
stewpan two dessert-spoonfuls of curry 
powder, add of butter two ounces, an 
onion cut in very fine strips, and three 
large spoonfuls of fish stock. When 
they are stewed well, add the lobster, 
simmer gently for an hour, squeeze in 
half a lemon, season with a little salt. 
In the eastern method the expressed 
luice of spinach is usually added. This 
is obtained by simply putting spinach, 
without any water, into a saucepan, and 
when done enough, press out the juice, 
and add it with butter, cayenne, and salt, 
to the gravy. Prawns may be dressed 
in this fashion. 



203.— CROQUETTES OF LOBSTER. 
Take the meat from the shell, chop it 
finely, mix it with a little salt, pepper, 
and pounded mace ; take one-fourth part 
of fine bread crumbs, make it up into 
balls with melted butter, brush the balls 
with yolk of egg, and- dredge them with 
bread crumbs, and fry them, serving with 
or without gravy : if dry, they must be 
sent up with crisped parsley. 



204.— GRATIN OF LOBSTER. 

Take out all the meat from a large lob- 
ster, then wash the body, tail, and shells 
if the lobster is first cut in halves down 
the back ; then dry and butter them, and 
sprinkle them with bread crumbs, cliop 
up the meat fine, with a little parsley 
and shalot, a few drops of essence of an- 
chovies, a spoonful of vinegar, cayenne 
pepper and salt, a little bechamel sauce, 
and boil all well together ; then add a 
yolk of egg, put it to cool, then fiil your 
shells or paper cases, cover it with bread 
crumbs and some pieces of butter, brown 
them in the oven, and dish on a napkin. 



205.— LOBSTER SALAD. 

Extract the fish from the shell, place 
it in the centre of the dish in which it is 
to be served, in the form of a pyramid ; 
arrange the salad round tastefully, and 
add salad mixture. This dish is not in- 
frequently garnished with the smallest 
claws of the fish. This is a matter of 
fancy — or it may be formed into a heap, 
ornamented with the claws of several 
lobsters. The first row is formed of cut 
cucumbers, the second of eggs boiled 
hard, and each egg split into four pieces, 
and the points laid round the salad ; the 
third and bottom row is composed of 
slices of beet-root and lobster. 

206.— LOBSTERS, IN AN ITALIAN SALAD. 

Take two lobsters, cut them into pieces 
by taking ofi" the claws and tail, each of 
which split in two ; the spawn rub. 
through a dry sieve to garnish the salad, 
made in the following manner : wash two 
or three cabbage lettuces, cut them in 
large shreds, shce a beet-root and cucum- 
ber, wash, pick, and cut into long shreds 
four anchovies, chop some tarragon and 
chervil, two boiled eggs, the yolks and 
whites chopped separately ; if you have 
any cauliflowers or French beans, boil 
and put them witli the other things to 
garnish. Having every thing prepared, 
place the lettuce in the centre of the 
dish in a heap, and place the lobsters and 
other things according to your taste, and 
just before you serve garnish with Ital- 
ian salad sauce. 

•207.- LOBSTER SALAD.— (Soyer's.) 

Dress a boi'der of hard-boiled eggs, as 
directed in salad of game, fill the centre 
with some nice fresh salad, then take the 
flesh from a middling-sized lobster, which 
cut into as large slices as jiossible, which 
put into a basin, and season with a little 
peppor, salt, oii, and vinegar, after which 
dress them pyramidically upon the salad 



206 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



and have ready the following sauce : put 
the yolks of two fresh eggs in a basin, 
with the yolk of a hard-boiled one rub- 
bed through a sieve ; add half a saltspoou- 
ful of salt, and half that quantity of 
white pepper, and commence stirring 
round with a wooden spoon with the 
right hand, holding a bottle of salad oil 
in the left, dropping it in by degrees 
and continually stirring ; when becoming 
thickish add a couple of spoonfuls of 
conunon vinegar by degrees, still keep- 
ing it stirred, then more oil, proceeding 
thus until you have used three parts of 
a pint of oil, and a corresponding quan- 
tity of vinegar ; by continually working 
it will form a stiffish cream-looking sauce 
perfectly smooth ; add a little more sea- 
soning if required, and a teaspoonful of 
chopped parsley, with half that quantity 
of chopped eschalots ; pour over the lob- 
ster and serve. Should the sauce curdle 
in making, the operation must be again 
performed, putting a yolk of an egg into 
another basin, working it with a little 
oil until forming a stiffish paste, then 
stir in the curdled sauce by degrees un- 
til the whole becomes smooth ; always 
choose a cool place to make it in. This 
requires a little practice. 



208.— ANCHOVIES, ESSENCE OF. 

A pound of the best anchovies, two 
quarts of water, two bay-leaves, some 
whole pepper, a little scraped horse- 
radish, a little thyme, two blades of 
mace, six shalots chopped small, a gill of 
port wine, half the rind of a lemon, a 
gill of ketchup ; boil them together for 
twenty minutes, then rub them through 
a tammy with a wooden spoon ; when 
cold put it into pint bottles, cork them 
close, and keep them in a dry place. 



'209.— TOAST OF ANCHOVIES. 

Prepare toast; fillet some anchovies, 



pound them in a mortar, add a little but- 
ter well pounded into it, a little cayenne 
pepper, a few drops of lemon-juice ; take 
it out and spread it on the toast. 

210. -ANCHOVIES WITH FRIED BREAD. 

Cut some bread thin, then cut out with 
a plain paste cutter the quantity you 
require, as you will put one on the other ; 
fry them in lard a very nice brown, then 
fillet and pound anchovies as before ; 
add a little parsley, and a grain of shalot, 
rub all through a fine wire or hair sieve, 
spread one of your toasts rather thick, 
place another piece of bread on the top ; 
have ready some more filleted ancho- 
vies, and garnish each toast, using 
pickles likewise, or parsley, 

211.— TO KNOW GOOD ANCHOVIES. 

The best look red and mellow, and the 
bones moist and oily, the flesh high fla- 
vored, and a fine smell ; if the liquor and 
fish become dry, add to it a little beef 
brine. 

212.— CHOWDER-A SAILOR'S DISH. 
Cut salmon, halibut, or any rich 
fish, into steaks an inch thick ; season 
them highly with pepper, salt, and ca}"^- 
enne ; put a layer of sliced potatoes 
(raw) in the bottom of the stewpan ; 
then a layer of broken cabin-biscuit ; 
next the fish ; then a layer of thin sliced 
ham. Fill the stewpan in this manner ; 
finish with a large piece of butter. Add 
water enough to moisten the whole ; 
stew slowly two hours, never stirring, 
but occasionally shaking the pan to pre- 
vent it burning to the bottom. If it 
gets too dry, add a little more water. 

218. -CRAB, 

Though not so well-known as the lob- 
ster, is looked upon by many as being 
a better-flavored fish, and perhaps rather 



SHELL-FISH. 



207 



more digestible. The female is consider- 
ed inferior to the male, and may be known 
by the claws being smaller, and the tail 
much wider. The heaviest aro usually 
thousiht to be the best, but those of a 
middling size are the sweetest. If light, 
they are watery ; when in perfection, the 
joints of the legs are stiff, and the 
body has a very agreeable smell. The 
ej'es look dead and loose when stale, or 
when the fish have died a natural death. 
They are boiled in the same manner as 
lobster, but require rather longer time, 
and are most usually eaten cold with oil 
and vinegar, as thus : — Pick out all the 
fish from the shell, divide it into small 
pieces, mixing the rich part well with the 
rest ; moisten it with salad dressing, and 
return it to the shell with an edge all 
round with sliced lemon. 

If liot, pick the fish out as above ; then 
put the meat, with a little nutmeg, salt, 
pepper, bits of butter, crumbs of bread, 
and three spoonfuls of vinegar, into the 
shell again, and set it before the fire. 
You may brown it- with a salamander, 
but it should be always served in the 
shell. Dry toast should be served to eat 
with it. Observe to remove "the lady," 
as it is called. 

214. -TO BOIL CRABS. 

Having boiled them twenty minutes, 
wipe them, crack the claws, rub the shells 
with oil, and dish them as lobster. To 
cook soft crabs, take away the claws, cut 
them open, and remove the sand bag and 
spongy part ; then put some butter into a 
frying-pan, and do them brown on both 
side.i. 

w 

215.— TO STEW CEABS. 
Pick the meat carefully out of a large 
craV) and ics claws; cut intp small pieces, 
mix it with about a fourth part of bread- 
crumbs, and a very small quantity of 
lin' ];• shred parsley. Season it well, and 



return it to the shell with some small 
bits of butter here and there, enough, 
when warmed, to keep it moist. Squeeze 
the juice of a lemon over it, or a spoonful 
of lemou-pickle or acid sauce. Put a 
thick layer of crumbs of bread upon the 
top with small bits of butter laid all over 
it, and bake it in the shell before the fire, 
or in the oven. Tlie shell of one crab 
will contain the meat of two. 

Or : — Boil them, take the meat out of 
the bodies and the large claws, put it into 
a stewpan with half a pint of claret, a 
spoonful of eschalot-vinegar, a little cay- 
enne, some salt, and a piece of butter : 
let them stew for an hour over a g-entle 
fire, until they are almost dry. Then 
add a small quantitv of fish-stock or 
gravy, a table-spoonful of essence of an- 
chovy, and a small piece of butter rolled 
in flour. Serve with sippets of fried 
bread round the dish. 

Another way is to put the meat into a 
stewpan with half a pint of white wine, 
a spoonful of eschalot or garlic vinegar, a 
little parsley and thyme minced fine, the 
yolks of three eggs boiled hard and 
minced small, and some salt and cayenne 
pepper. Let it stew gently till quite 
tender and almost dry ; then add a 
piece of butter stir it about for a few 
minutes over the fire, wash the shells, 
butter them, put the stewed meat into 
them, and serve on a napkin. 

216.— SMALL CPvABS AND CRAYFISH 

Are made sometimes into soup, but 
more commonly plain, boiled for about a 
quarter of an hour and eaten cold. In 
the lower parts of Germany they are 
eaten hot, with rye-bread and butter, 
and are there a favorite supper dish in 
the heat of summer. 

21T.— TO STEW CRAYFISH. 
Boil them in salt and water, pick the 
meat out of the tails and claws, put them 



208 



THE PRACTICAL IIOUSEKEBPEK. 



into a stewpan with a little butter, some 
mushrooms, and truffles; moisten them 
with a little fish-stock, and simmer a 
short time over a gentle fire. When 
nearly done, beat the yolks of two or 
three eggs with a teacupful of cream and 
a little chopped parslej^ ; let all stew to- 
gether for a few minutes, stirring it all 
the time, and serve up in a deep dish. 

218.-80FT SHELLED 0EAB8. 

Fry the crabs in lard, having taken off 
the spongy substance, and the sand bag. 
Crisp parsley in the fat after they come 
out, and add pepper and salt and rich 
milk, for the gravy. 

219.— TERRAPINS. 
Put them in boiling water to kill 
them ; then skin them and take off the 
nails, wash and put them on again to 
boil, adding a teaspoon of salt to every 
two. When tender, remove the shells, 
sand bags, and gall, carefully ; cut up the 
meat, season it with pepper, mace, and 
nutmeg, and put it in a stewpan with 
the juice that has come out, and for 
every two terrapins, four ounces of 
butter in flour, a glass of white wine and 
the yolks of two eggs beaten. The wine 
and eggs to be added after the whole is 
stewed perfectly tender. 

220.— CEABS MINCED. 

Remove the meat, mince small and 
])lace in a saucepan with a wineglassful 
of white wine, pepper and salt, nutmeg, 
cayenne pepper, and two table-spoonfuls 
of vinegar. Let it stew for ten minutes ; 
melt a piece of butter the size of a hen's 
egg, with an anchovy and the yolks of 
two eggs ; beat up and mix well, stir in 
with the crab, and add sufficient stale 
bread-crumbs to thicken. Garnish with 
thin toast cut with a pastry leaf-cutter, or 
with the claws, and parsley. Lobster 
may be dressed in the same manner. 



221.— CRAYFISH BUTTER. 

Take the shells of twenty-four cray- 
fish, clean them well from skin and 
fibre, put them into an oven to dry, with- 
out burning or browning, until they can 
be beaten to a fine powder ; mix the 
powder very well with three ounces of 
fre.-h butter, then put it into a stewpan 
with a spoonful of hot water, mixing it 
well together ; then squeeze the whole 
through a tamis over a stewpan of boil- 
ing water ; skim and butter off into a 
basin of cold water, that it may set ; 
when cold press it in a napkin. 

It forms a beautiful coloring addition 
to many kinds of dishes, fish especially, 
and, when mixed with the meat pounded 
after being taken from the shells, makes 
fine sauce. 

222.— OYSTERS 

Depend very much for goodness upon 
the beds from which they have been 
taken. There are several kinds. 

They all come into season, according 
to an old saying, " so long as there is an 
R in the month." They are, however, 
not perfectly good until the beginning of 
October, and should go out at the end of 
March. 

When the fish is alive and strong, the 
shell closes on the knife. They should 
be eaten as opened, the flavor becoming 
poor if long exposed to the air. 

223.— TO SCALLOP OYSTERS. 

Take twelve of the smaller sort, beard 
them, cut out the hard part which ad- 
heres to their shells, and leave them in 
their liquor ; have ready a quantity of 
crumbs of fresh bread, not too finely 
grated, and mixed with a little pepper 
and salt ; then -grease a scallop-shell, 
strew upon it some of the crumbs with 
bits of butter, and lay upon them a layer 
of the oysters ; then crumbs, bits of 
butter, and oysters, layer upon layer. 



SHELL-FISH. 



209 



until the shell is filled up ; cover it with 
a thick coatiug of the crumbs well but- 
tered, and brown it in a Dutch oven. A 
dozen oysters, with a proper quantity of 
crumbs, will fill up the largest scallop- 
shell, and take an hour to be thoroughly 
done. 

Some cooks scald the oysters for five 
minutes, in their own liquor, and mix 
with them minced shalot, or chives, and 
jiot-herbs ; but these, although they may 
please an epicurean palate, will destroy 
the natural flavor of the oyster. 

224.— TO SCALLOP OTSTEES. 

For one hundred oysters, take four 
eggs, boiled hard, and chopped very fine ; 
mix them with a sixpenny loaf crumbled 
or grated, and add pepper and salt to 
taste. Put some of the mixture in the 
bottom of a pie dish, and lay on it light- 
ly a layer of oysters, previously rinsed 
and drained; add a few bits of butter, 
then cover the oysters with a layer of 
bread-crumbs and eggs ; another layer 
of oysters, and so on ; covering the top 
with bread-crumbs. Bake it three-quar- 
ters of an hour. 

225.— TO MAKE OYSTEE FEITTEES. 

Make a batter with milk, flour, and 
eggs, beatea light. Have some lard quite 
hot ; dip out a tablespoonful of the bat- 
ter, put an oyster into it. and let it down 
into the boiling lard carefully and fry it 
on both sides. This is a better plan than 
mixing the oysters and batter together. 

226.— TO BEOIL OYSTEES. 

Take them from the shells, beard 
them, and put them with their liquor 
into tin shapes made to imitate scallops, 
six in a shell (not more), with a little 
.pepper and butter. Put the shells upon 
a gridiron over a good fire, and serve 
them when plump and quite hot. They 
are delicious this way ; but to be eaten 
in perfection should be cooked in the 



room where they are eaten. Squeeze a 
little lemon-juice over them when they 
come from the fire. 

Or : — They may be put singly in their 
under shells along with their own liquor, a 
little minced parsley and spice, and a bit 
of butter, and thus put upon the gridiron, 
to be taken off when thoroughly heated. 

227.— WITH WHITE SAUCE. 

Beard the oysters wash them in their 
own liquor, then strain it, thicken it with 
melted butter, or white sauce made of 
cream, not milk, and flour ; season it with 
a blade of mace and a few whole pepper- 
corns tied in a muslin bag. Simmer the 
oysters very gently, and serve up with 
sippets of bread : they will require only 
a few minutes, and if allowed to boil will 
become hard. 

228.— WITH BEOWN SAUCE. 
"Wash the oysters in their liquor, and 
then strain it, add a glass of wine, two 
spoonfuls of beef-gravy, some whole pep- 
per, a little salt, a piece of butter, and a 
spoonful of lemon-juice ; boil the whole, 
stirring it until it is smooth, then put in 
the oysters, and warm or plump them up 
without boiling. 

229.— OYSTEE EOLLS. 

Take about a quart of the largest and 
finest oysters you can procure, stew 
them in their own liquor with some pep- 
per, a very little mace, and some green 
onion chopped fine, thicken them with a 
little butter and a dust of flour when 
nearly done enough. Take two French 
rolls of the square sort baked in tins, 
cut a piece off the top, and scoop out the 
greater part of the crumb, fill your roll 
with the oysters and the liquor, and set 
them near the fire on a chafing-dish fill- 
ed with hot coals ; as the liquor soaks in 
fill them with more, or if you have not 
any left, add a little good gravy boiling- 
hot. 



210 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



Or : — Let them first soak ; then fasten 
in the top, cover the entire of the roll in 
batter, and bake it in the Dutch oven till 
well browned. 

Or : — Mince the o-'sters, season them 
only with mace and nutmeg, and fill the 
rolls up with cream or rich white sauce, 
and bake them as above: even one large 
roll will make a nice little dish, and is 
better than the smaller sort. 

230.— OYSTER SAUSAGES 
May also be made of the larger kind, 
bearded and minced small, together with 
a moderate quantity of beef suet and 
bread-crumbs, to which should be added 
a forcemeat of pounded pork or veal, 
seasoned with spice and put into the 
usual skins. If well seasoned, they will 
keep good for a full week : one pound of 
beef suet shred fine, and the same quan- 
tity of forcemeat, with bread-crumbs, 
should be put to each pint of oysters. 

Or : — Take one-half pound of lean 
beef or mutton, three-quarters pound 
of beef suet, two score of oysters beard- 
ed and scalded in their own liquor, then 
dried and all chopped together, adding 
bread-crumbs and yolks of eggs to bind 
the materials. Season well with salt, 
white pepper, mace, and a grate of nut- 
meg ; or if you wish to make it very 
savory, leave out the mace and nutmeg, 
but add a little cayenne, with a minced 
shalot and a spoonful of garlic-vinegar. 
They may be either made as sausages, or 
fried into shapes in the usual way. 

231.— OYSTERS A L'IMPERIALE. 

Procure, quite fresh, a barrel of oys- 
ters, packed as for transmission to 
the country. Put into a vessel large 
enough to contain the barrel sufficient 
water, that when the barrel is in, it may 
be covered. Heat the water to a boil ; 
when it is boiling, put in the barrel of 
oysters just as you have received it from 



the oysterseller ; let it boil twelve min- 
utes ; take it out, knock off the head, 
and serve immediately. The flavor of 
the hot oyster will be found delicious. 

282.— OYSTER CURRY. 

Blanch and beard six dozen oys- 
ters, leaving them in their own liquor ; 
then cut two middling-sized onions 
into small dice, and saute them in a 
stewpan, with an ounce of butter ; when 
done, mix in two teaspoonfuls of curry 
powder and one of curry paste, and pass 
all through a tammy — it ought to be 
thick ; then add the oysters with their 
liquor, and keep stirring over the fire 
until the oysters become enveloped in a 
thick sauce, which they should be in two 
minutes, when turn them out upon your 
dish, and serve with rice separately. 

283.— ROAST OYSTERS. 

Large oysters not opened, a few min- 
utes before they are wanted, put on a 
gridiron over a moderate fire. When 
done they will open ; do not lose the 
liquor that is in the shell with the oys- 
ter ; send them hot upon a napkin. 

234— AN OYSTER PIE, WITH SWEET- 
BREADS. 

Blanch them and take off the beards, 
separate them from the liquor, blanch 
some throat sweetbreads, and when cold 
cut them in slices, then lay them and the 
oysters in layers in your dish, season 
with salt, pepper, a few grains of mace 
and nutmeg; add some thick sauce, a 
little cream, and the oyster liquor, and 
some good veal stock ; bake in a slow 
oven. 

235.— BREADED OYSTERS. 
Scoop out the crumb from a small loaf, 
or some small rolls of bread, and put 
into the cavity oysters stewed with but- 
ter and mace, and a little of their liquor, 
with two or three spoonfuls of rich milk 



SHELL-FISH. 



211 



added as they are done. Put on the top 
of the rolls, the pieces sUced oflf"; set 
them in the oven a few minutes, and 
serve on a dish, hot. 




Stewpan. 



236— STEWED OYSTERS. 

The oysters should be bearded and 
rinsed in their own liquor, which should 
then be strained and thickened with 
flour and butter, and placed with the 
oysters in a stewpan ; add mace, lemon- 
peel cut into threads, some white pepper 
whole ; these ingredients had better be 
confined in a piece of muslin. The stew 
must simmer only ; if it is suffered to 
boil, the oysters will become hard ; serve 
with sippets of bread. This may be 
varied by adding a glass of wine to the 
liquor, before the oysters are put in and 
warmed. 

287.— SCALLOrED OYSTERS. 

Beard the oysters, wash in their own 
liquor, steep bread-crumbs in the latter, 
put them with the oysters into scallop 
shells, with a bit of butter and season- 
ing of salt, pepper, and a little grated 
nutmeg ; make a paste of bread-crumbs 
and butter; cover, and roast them be- 
fore the fire, or in an oven. 



288.— PICKLED OYSTERS IN THE FRENCH 
WAY.— (A supper disli.) 

Take four dozen oysters, strain the 
liquor, add six blades of mace, twelve 
peppercorns, a little grated lemon-peel, 
and two or three bay-leaves. Put the 
liquor to boil ; when boiling, add the 
oysters for two minutes. (Some per- 
sons put half vinegar, half liquor.) 



When cold, strain off the liquor. Place 
the oysters in a small dish, and garnish 
with parsley. 

239.— PICKLED OYSTERS. 
(By a Lady of New York.) 

Scald the oysters in their liquor, or in 
water with a little salt ; take them out 
with a skimmer, and throw them into 
cold water. Take whole allspice, black 
pepper and mace, and boil it up in the 
liquor in which the oysters were boiled ; 
when it tastes enough of the spices take 
it oflf. Let the 03fsters drain on a sieve. 
When the liquor is cold add vinegar to 
taste, and then put in the 03'sters. 

240.— TO DRESS COLD FISH. 

Dip a flat dish in hot water, to prevent 
cracking; smear it with butter, and 
sprinkle white pepper on it ; then a 
thick la3-er of stale bread, grated flne;" 
a layer of the lisli, picked from bones, 
and broken small ; a little melted butter 
— prepared without milk — poured over 
another layer of bread — then of fish, 
with butter as befoVe ; repeated as often 
as required for quantity of fish, and size 
of dish. Smooth the surface with a 
spoon, and sprinkle slightly fine bread, 
mixed with white pepper on the top. 
Place it for twenty or thirty minutes, 
according to thickness, before a brisk 
fire, with a tin shade at back of dish, 
to reflect the heat. Cold washed mut- 
ton may be redressed the same way; 
first wiping the meat, quite free from 
gravy, in a napkin. 




Fish Scissors, to trim pan-fish for frying. 
241.— CASSEROLE OF FISH 

Is a title given, among others, by 



212 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



French cooks, to '■'• pokson rechauffe^'' 
or fish which has been left after being 
dressed, and is meant to be re-heated. 
There are ahuost as many modes of 
doing this, as of originally dressing the 
various sorts ; but we here only retain 
a few of the most simple : — 

Take any kind of cold fish, and divide 
it into large flakes ; boil two or three 
eggs hard, and cut them into slices ; 
have also some mashed potatoes ; butter 
a mould, and put in the fish, eggs, and 
potatoes, with a little delicate seasoning 
of white pepper ; moisten the whole with 
cream, or thin melted butter, and a spoon- 
ful of essence of anchovies ; boil the 
mould and turn it out. 

Or : — Take some fish which has been 
dressed, and rub it through a sieve ; to 
half a pound of fish allow a quarter of a 
pound of bread-crumbs, two eggs well 
beaten, one tablespoonful of essence of an- 
chovies, one of Harvey sauce, and a little 
salt and cayenne pepper ; mix all well to- 
gether, and put it into a mould ; let it boil 
half an hour, and serve it with a good 
fish-sauce in the dish. 

Or : — Take half a pint of good gravy, 
with a couple of glasses of wine, two 
tablespoonfuls of anchovy liquor, and 
two of vinegar, seasoned high with cay- 
enne, mustard, salt, and shalot ; mince 
the fish, but do not put it in the mortar, 
and either warm it as a fricassee, and 
bring it up in a dish with sippets ; or, 
put it into a form, piled up high in the 
centre, cover it with bread-crumbs and 
bits of butter, and brown it with a sala- 
mander. 



242.— risn TURTLE. (English.) 

For this imitation, sturgeon is the 
best material, but, if not in season, cut 
some ling into handsome pieces, and fry 
it ; then boil ari equal quantity of skate, 
also cut in pieces j and having cleaned 



and soaked two or three cod-sounds, 
stew them until green, with a little 
spinach, and cut them into pieces ; then 
have a sufficient quantity of good gravy, 
into which the liquor of two or three 
dozen of oysters has been strained ; thick- 
en it with cream or butter ; put it into 
a stewpan with the fish already named, a 
lobster cut in pieces, a spoonful of es- 
sence of anchovies, and a glass of Madeira. 
Warm the whole together, and send it to 
table with a lemon garnish. The sauce 
to this dish must be very rich, and of a 
fine dark color. 



213.— FISH PlTfi.* 

This is a pretty mode of enclosing a 
fricassee of fish with a potato wall with- 
out a crust of pastry. Mash in a mortar 
as many potatoes as you may want, with 
a good piece of butter ; then, with the 
bowls of two silver spoons, raise a wall 
of it two and a half inches high within the 
rim of the dish to be used. Let the 
upper part be a little thinner than the 
lower ; smooth it ; and, after brushing 
it all over with egg, put it into the oven 
to become hot, and a little colored. Be- 
fore egging it, the outside may be orna- 
mented with flowers, leaves, &c., by the 
small tin shapes used to cut paste. 

Beat the whole of a crab picked clean 
from the shell in a marble mortar, with 
white pepper and salt, nutmeg, and a 
very few crumbs of bread ; warm it with 
a little gravy thickened with cream or 
butter and a spoonful of wine, and. when 
thoroughly warmed, add a little lemon- 
juice. Pour it into potato walls pre- 
viously baked, but not covered Uke a 
pie, and serve it up hot. either browning 
it with the salamander, or covering the 
top with fancifully arranged small claws. 

244.— FISH CAKE. 

Cut the meat from the bones, put 



DRESSED FISH. 



213 



them, the head and jBns, over the fire to 
stew for gravy, with a pint of water, an 
onion, herbs, pepper, and salt. Mince 
the meat, put to it one-third part of 
crumbs of bread, a little minced onion, 
parsley, pepper, salt, and a very small bit 
of mace ; mix well, and make it into a 
cake with white of egg and a little melt- 
ed butter ; cover it with raspings, and fry 
it a pale brown, keeping a plate on the 
top while doing. Then lay it in a stew- 
pan, with the fish gravy, and stew it 
gently a quarter of an hour ; turn it twice, 
but with great care not to break it : cover 
it closely while stewing. 

Cake of dressed meat, done in the same 
way, is remarkably good. 



245.— FISH-CUTLETS. 

Chop a considerable quantity of herbs 
with a small piece of shalot, season it 
with pepper and salt, and put it into a 
stewpan with two ounces of butter ; as 
the butter is melting add a teaspoonful 
of essence of anchovies. Do not allow 
the butter to more than melt, and mix 
the whole well together ; then cut any 
kind of white fish, dressed or raw, into 
handsome cutlets, and, when the herb 
seasoning is nearly cold, spread it on the 
fish thickly with a knife; dredge the 
fish with bread-crumbs, and cook them 
on buttered pans in an oven, or before the 
fire. Stew a few silver button-onions, 
or a chopped onion, with any green vege- 
tables in season, cut it into dice in a little 
broth, add nasturtiums and a little of the 
pickle ; keep them in the middle of a 
dish, and lay the cutlets round. 

Or : — Take any fish previously dress- 
ed, pull it in pieces, and mix it with a 
little good stock, and any fish sauce 
which may have been left from table ; 
spread it on a flat dish, brush it with egg 
and sprinkle thick with bread-crumbs, 
cut it out in cutlets, and fry brown. 
14 



• 246.— KEDGEREE FOE BREAKFAST. 

Boil two tablespoonfuls of rice, add any 
fish previously cooked (salmon or turbot 
is preferable), and nicely picked ; beat 
up an egg well, and stir it in just before 
serving. The egg must not boil. 

247.— FEICANDELLES OF FISH. 

Take any quantity that may be con- 
venient of either dressed or undressed 
fish of firm quahty; skin and bone it; 
mince it of the size of dice, with a few 
anchovies, say two to each pound, rea- 
soned with mace, cayenne, and a grating 
of nutmeg ; soak the crumb of a French 
roll, one to each pound, in milk, and 
beat it up with the yolks of two eggs to 
each roll, so as to make it into a puree, 
and put the fish into it ; warm the whole 
gently, and add to it a moderate quan- 
tity of cream. 

Put the fish thus prepared into a but- 
tered mould, cover it thickly with bread- 
crumbs, and either bake it in a Dutch 
oven, or warm it before the fire, and 
brown it with the salamander. 

A few oysters are an excellent addi- 
tion ; and if xoim be employed instead of 
mill;, the dish may be dressed in the same 
manner, but rather more highly sea- 
soned. 

248.— A MATELOTE OF FISH. (English.) 

Take carp or tench, or both, together 
with an eel and any small fi,sh ; cut them 
into pieces, and put them along with a 
quantity of button-onions into a stewpan 
containing just wine or gravy enough of 
any sort to cover them, and let them 
stew very gently until nearly done ; then 
have ready a couple of minced truflJe? 
and a good handful of shrimps to mix 
into the sauce, which may be made of 
either white or red wine ; the red may 
be made the more savory, but the white 
wine will be found the most delicate : it 
should be thickened with yolk of egg.; 



214 



THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



and the dish garnished with sippets of 
fried bread. 

249— RAGOtTT OF FISH. 

Take carp, perch, pike, and eels ; clean 
and scale them well, and cut them into 
pieces for serving; put in your stew- 
pan a good-sized piece of butter, let it 
fry to a pale brown, fry some flour in it, 
and add a quart or two of good bouillon 
with a glass or two of red wine, and a 
few cloves and onions. When boiling 
put your ragout into it, let it well boil, 
and add some lemon-juice before serving 
it up. 

250.-A VOL-AU-VENT 

Of fish, of any sort, is an elegant side- 
dish when prepared either with meat 
gravy or made up maigre. 

Muscles also make an excellent vol- 
au-vent. 

251.— STEWED FISH, HEBREW FASHION. 

Take thiee or four parsley-roots, cut 
them into long thin slices, and two or 
three onions also sliced, boil them to- 
gether in a quart of water until quite 
tender ; then flavor it with ground white 
pepper, nutmeg, mace, and a little saffron, 
the juice of two lemons, and a spoonful 
of vinegar. Put in the fish, and let it 
stew for twenty, or thirty minutes ; then 
take it out, strain the gravy, thicken it 
with a little flour and butter, have balls 
made of chopped fish, bread-crumbs, 
spices, and the yolk of one or two eggs 
mixed up together, and drop them into 
the liquor. Let them boil, then put in 
the fish, and serve it up with the balls 
and parsley-roots. 

252.-SAUCES FOR PISH. 
The stock for fish sauces should be 
made of the water in wliich fish has been 
boiled, adding the bones, fins, &c., all well 



stewed down ; when fish is filleted, the 
bones should always be employed in this 
way : Stew them with an onion and a 
little white pepper; strain the broth, 
which will be very rich, thicken it with 
cream, butter, and flour, or roux. and add 
whatever the sauce is to be made of. The 
following may be generally used, accord- 
ing to fancy, for nearly every species of 
fish: 

253.— HOPvSEEADISH SAUCE. 

Stew an onion in a little fish-stock un- 
til it will pulp ; add a teaspoonful of 
grated horseradish, and one or two spoon- 
fuls of essence of anchovies. Beat all to- 
gether over a fire, thicken it with a little 
butter, and finish with a spoonful of lem- 
on pickle or lemon juice. ' Vinegar may 
be substituted, in which case it must be 
mixed with the horseradish, and boiled 
with it ; while the lemon, or lemon pic- 
kle, being of a more delicate flavor, should 
only be warmed. 

07' : — Scrape the horseradish thin and 
chop it small, or grate it. which is better; 
warm it in melted butter, adding a spoon- 
ful of mushroom ketchup, and one of wal- 
nut, or the vinegar from walnut-pickle. 

254.— FOE ALL SORTS OF FISH. 

Take a spoonful of vinegar, one of In- 
dian soy, the same of mushroom ketchup 
aud Harvey's sauce, with a little cayenne. 
Add three large spoonfuls of melted but- 
ter; stir all well, and heat it over the 
fire. 

07': — Put equal quantities of water 
and vinegar into a saucepan, and thicken 
it with the jolk of an egg to every four 
spoonfuls of the water and vinegar. JNIake 
it quite hot, but do not boil it ; stir it or 
shake the pan all the time ; season it to 
your liking, and add a spoonful of the 
liquid to every three of melted butter. 

255.— WHITE SAUCE. 

Haifa pint of cream, two tablespoonfuls 



SAUCES FOB FISH. 



215 



of mushroom ketchup ; one of essence of 
anchovy, with a little cayenne pepper, 
and an ounce or two of butter rolled in 
flour ; boil all together for five minutes. 

256.— BROWN SAUCE. 

Fry an onion in butter and flour until 
it becomes brown ; then simmer it in a 
glass of port wine, with a tablespoonful 
of soy and walnut ketchup, seasoned with 
salt and cayene ; strain it, and thicken it 
with the necessary quantity of melted 
butter. 

26T.— ANCHOVY SAUCE. 
To about half a pint of melted butter 
put two tablespoonfuls of good essence of 
anchovies, with the juice of half a lemon. 
Serve very hot. 

258.— FENNEL SAUCE. 
This is a sauce principally used for 
boiled mackerel. Make the same quan- 
tity of melted butter as in the last, to 
which add a good tablespoonful of 
chopped fennel ; it is usually served in a 
boat. 

259. -BUTTER OF ANCHOVIES. 
To make this butter you must have 
yoimg anchovies. Take them out of the 
pickle and wash them well. Take off the 
bones and head, and then pound them in 
a mortar with fresh butter, till very fine 5 
rub this through a hair sieve. Put this 
butter when made, into a pot well cover- 
ed, to use when wanted; observe, how- 
ever, that it soon becomes rank. 

260.— EGG SAUCE 
Is generally served with salt fish or 
haddock. Boil six eggs ten minutes ; let 
them get cold ; then cut them in pieces 
about the size of dice ; put them into a 
stewpan with three parts of a pint of 
melted or drawn butter; add an ounce 
more fresh butter, with a little pepper and 



salt ; keep the stewpan moving round over 
the fire until the whole is very hot, and 
serve in a boat. 

261.— CAPER SAUCE FOE FISH. 
Take some melted butter, into which 
throw a small bit of glaze, and when the 
sauce is in a state of readiness throw into 
it some choice capers, salt and pepper, 
and a spoonful uf essence of anchovies. 

2B2.— NEW LOBSTER SAUCE. 

If you use the solid flesh for salad, 
pound the soft part and shell together (in 
a mortar) very fine, which put into a 
stewpan, covered with a pint of boiling 
water; place it over the fire to simmer 
for ten minutes, then pass the liquor 
through a hair sieve into a basin ; put 
three ounces of butter into a stewpan. 
into which rub (cold) a good tablespoon- 
ful of flour, add the liquor from the lob- 
ster, place it upon the fire, stirring until 
the point of boiling ; season with a little 
cayenne, and add a piece of auchovy but- 
ter, the size of a walnut ; or, if any red 
spawn is in the lobster, mix it with butter, 
as in the last, and add it, with the juice 
of half a lemon, just before serving. An 
anchovy pounded with the lobster-shells 
would be an improvement, and part of 
the flesh of the lobster might be served 
in the sauce. 

263.— LOBSTER SAUCE 1 LA CRfiME. 

Cut a small lobster into slices the size 
of half-crown pieces, which put into a 
stewpan ; pound the soft and white parts 
with an ounce of butter, and rub it 
through a sieve ; pour ten spoonfuls of 
melted butter, and two of cream, over 
the slices in the stewpan, add half a 
blade of mace, a saltspoonful of salt, a 
quarter ditto of pepper, and a little cay- 
enne ; warm gently, and when upon the 
point of boiling, add the butter and two 
tablespoonfuls of thick creamy shake 



216 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



round over the fire until quite hot, when 
it is ready to serve. 

264.- -LOBSTER SAUCE SIMPLIFIED. 

Put the slices of lobster into a stew- 
pan, with ten tablespoonfuls of milk ; 
add a little pepper, salt, cayenne, two 
cloves, and half a blade of mace ; set it 
upon the fire, and when on the point of 
boiling, add a piece of butter the size of 
two walnuts, with which you have mix- 
ed a little flour ; shake round over the 
fire, and when getting rather thick, add 
two spoonfuls of cream, if at hand, and 
serve very hot. 

265.— LOBSTER SAUCE.— (French receipt.) 
A hen lobster is indispensable for this 
sauce. Put some of the spawn of the 
fish into a mortar, to be pounded very 
fine ; add to it a small bit of butter. 
When very fine, rub it through a hair 
sieve, and cover till wanted. Break the 
lobster with great care, cut all the flesh 
into dice, not too small ; dilute some of 
the red spawn in melted butter, with 
two spoonfuls of essence of anchovies, 
a little salt and cayenne pepper, two 
spoonfuls of thick cream, and mix all 
well before the meat is added, as that 
must retain its dice-like form. Do not 
let this sauce boil. It must be very red. 
Add to it a teaspoonful of cavice, and 
observe that the cavice should be very 
old ; two or three years' age renders it 
excellent. 

266.— SOTER'S LOBSTER AND SHRIMP 
SAUCE FOR SALMON. 

Lobster. — Put twelve spoonfuls of 
melted butter into a stewpan; cut a 
middle-sized hen lobster into dice, make 
one-quarter pound of lobster butter 
with the spawn by pounding it well in a 
mortar, adding one-quarter pound fresh 
butter, and rubbing the mixture through 
a hair sieve ; add this to the melted but- 
ter when just boiling ; stir it over the 



fire till the butter is melted ; season with 
a little essence of anchovy, the juice of 
half a lemon, and a quarter of a tea- 
spoonful of cayenne ; pass it through a 
tamis (a coarse flannel) into another 
stewpan ; then add the flesh of the lob- 
ster. Serve it hot. This sauce must be 
red ; if not red in the lobster, use live 
spawn. 

Shrimj}. — Make the melted butter as 
above, but finish with essence of shrimps, 
and serve half a pint of pickled shrimps 
in the boat with it ; or the anchovy 
sauce may be served with shrimps in it 
as a substitute, if there is no essence of 
shrimps. 

267.— SHRIMP SAUCE 

Is also very good as follows : Pound 
half a pint of shrimps, skins and all, in a 
mortar, and boil them ten minutes in 
half a pint of water ; pass the liquor 
through a hair sieve into a stewpan, and 
add a piece of butter the size of two 
walnuts, with which you have mixed a 
good teaspoonful of flour, stir it round 
over the fire until upon the point of 
boiling ; if too thick, add a little more 
water ; season with a little cayenne and 
a teaspoonful of essence of anchovies ; 
serve very hot ; a few picked shrimps 
might also be served in it. 

268.— LOBSTER SAUCE. 

Put twelve tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter in a stewpan. cut up a small-sized 
lobster into dice ; make a quarter of a 
pound of lobster butter with the spawn, 
as directed ; when the melted butter is 
upon the point of boiling, add the lobster 
butter, stir the sauce round over the fire 
until the butter is molted, season with a 
httle essence of anchovies, the juice of 
half a lemon, and a quarter of a salt- 
spoonful of cayenne pepper; pass it 
through a tammy into another stewpan, 
and add the flesh of the lobster. This 
sauce must be red. 



r" 



SAUCES FOR FISH. 



217 



269.— MATELOTE SAUCE. 

For about a pound slice of salmon 
make the following quantity of sauce: 
— Peel thirty button onions, and put 
half a teaspoonful of sugar in a quart- 
sized stevvpan, place it over a sharp fire, 
and when melted and getting brown, add 
a piece of butter (the size of two wal- 
nuts) and the onions, toss them over 
now and then until rather brown, then 
add a glass of sherry ; let it boil ; then 
add half a pint of brown sauce and a 
gill of broth ; simmer at the corner of 
the fire until the onions are quite tender ; 
skim it well, and add a few mushrooms, 
if at hand ; season with a little. salt and 
sugar, and sauce over any kind of fish 
where described. The addition of a tea- 
spoonful of essence of anchovies is an 
improvement. Use where directed. 

270.— MATELOTE SAUCE SIMPLIFIED. 

Proceed as above respecting the on- 
ions, only add a fourth more butter, and 
fry them a little browner ; then add a 
glass of sherry and two teaspoonfuls of 
flour, which stir round gently with a 
small wooden spoon ; add to it about a 
pint of water, stir now and then till boil- 
ing, add three saltspoonfuls of salt, two 
of sugar, one of pepper, and a bouquet 
garni ; simmer and skim, add a few drops 
of coloring to give it a nice brown color ; 
when ready to serve, add a good table- 
spoonful of anchovy essence ; it ought to 
adhere lightly to the back of the spoon, 
but not be too thick ; sauce over or un- 
der, as directed ; small pieces of glaze, 
if thickened with the eggs — (great care 
must be exercised, for if it should be- 
come too hot the eggs would curdle, and 
render the sauce useless ;) then add half 
a pint of melted butter ; stir all together 
over the fire. 

271.— OYSTER SAUCE. 
Blanch three dozen oysters,which again 



put into the stewpan, with their liquor 
(after having detached the beards) ; add 
six peppercorns and half a blade of mace ; 
place them over the fire, and when be- 
ginning to simmer, add a piece of butter 
the size of a walnut, with which you 
have mixed suflBcient flour to form a 
paste, break it in four or five pieces; 
shake the stewpan round over the fire, 
and when upon the point of boiling, and 
becoming thick, add half a gill of milk, or 
more if required ; season with a little 
caj^enne,' salt, pepper, and a few drops of 
essence of anchovies : serve very hot. 

272.— MUSSEL SAUCE. 
Proceed exactly the same as for oyster 
sauce, using only the hquor of the mus- 
sels (not the beaids) instead of the 
oysters, and serving the mussels in the 
sauce ; about four dozen would be suffi- 
cient. 

273.— COD SAUCE. 

Take a bunch of parsley, chervil, two 
shalots, two cloves, a bay-leaf, some 
mushrooms, and a bit of butter, soak all 
together on the fire, adding a small 
spoonful 'of fiour, and milk or cream 
sufficient to boil to the consistence of a 
sauce, and add to it some chopped pars- 
ley first scalded. 

274.— EEL SAUCE. 
Cut the eels into large pieces and put 
them into a stewpan with a few slices of 
bacon, ham, veal, two onions, with all 
sorts of roots; soak it till it catches, 
then add a glass of white wine and good 
broth, a little cuUis, thi"ee or four tarra- 
gon leaves, chervil, a clove of garlic, two 
of spices, and a bay-leaf; simmer for an 
hour, skim it very well, and sift it in a 
sieve for use. 

275.-8AUCE FOE FISH. 

Twenty-four anchovies chopped; ten 



218 



THE PBACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



eschalots ; two ounces of horseradish, 
scraped ; four blades of mace ; one lemon 
sliced ; twelve cloves ; qua'rter of an 
ounce of black pepper, whole; one gill 
of the anchovy liquor ; one quart of best 
vinegar ; one quart of water. Let the 
whole simmer on the fire until reduced to 
one quart, in a covered saucepan ; strain 
and bottle for use. If required for long 
keeping, add a quarter of an ounce of cay- 
enne pepper. 



276.— LOBSTER SA.UCE. 
Pick tlie meat from a lobster and cut 
it into small pieces. Break the shell, 
and stew it with the legs, &c., in a pint 
and a half of water, until reduced to the 
quantity required ; then strain ; add 
flour and water to thicken it. Pound 
some of the live spawn from the tail, add- 
ing a little water to it ; when well pound- 
ed pour it by degrees into the sauce ; let 
it boil up ; add fresh butter to it in the 
proportion of three-fourths of a pound 
of butter to a quart of sauce ; throw in 
the lobster: season with a little anchovy, 
cayenne, salt, and a small quantity of 
lemon-juice. It should be thick rather 
than thin. 

Or : — Take a cold boiled hen lobster ; 
split the ta^l, and pound the coral, which 
is found in the tail and in the body, in a 
mortar, adding a little sweet oil. Then 
chop the meat of the body into very small 
pieces, and rub it, along with the soft 
parts and coral, through a sieve. That 
done, cut up the flesh of the claws and 
tail into dice, and stir the entire mixture 
gradually into the proper quantity of 
melted butter, without suffering it to 
boll ; as, if too much heated, the flavor 
and color of the sauce will be injured. 
The seasoning should only be a moderate 
quantity of mace and cayenne, with half 
a glass of while wine, or a cup of cream, 
to a pint tureen of s.iuce. 



Crai Sauce is made in the same man- 
ner ; but crabs, being without coral, and 
the flesh less firm than that of lobster, 
form a rather inferior sauce. 

277.— SHRIMP SAUCE. 

Pick the heads and skins from some 
fresh shrimps and stew these ofiuls for 
half an hour in a small quantity of 
boiling water to extract their flavor ; 
then strain the liquor and make use of it 
in melting the butter in which the shell- 
ed shrimps are to be dressed ; these are 
then to be put into the butter and liquor 
to simmer gently for about twenty min- 
utes, in which time they will be sufl3- 
ciently done, and their flavor is so deli- 
cate that neither anchovy sauce, mace, 
cayenne pepper, nor any other condiment 
than salt, should be put to them ; add a 
little cream. 

A pint of unshelled shrimps will make 
a tureen of sauce large enough for four 
or five persons. 



GRAYY, SAUCES, ETC. 

Thkre is nothing that requires more 
attention on the part of the cook than the 
sauces which are wanted to all made 
dishes. Where a calf's head or a breast 
of veal is stewed, nothing more will be 
required, as both will yield an abundant 
supply, and it will only be necessary to 
give it the proper flavor with ham, or 
beef-bone, and ketchup. 

GllAVY 
May be made quite as good of the 
skirts of beef, kidney, or of the liver of a 
fat ox, as of any other kind of meat, if 
cut in pieces, fi-ied with onions, and sea- 
soned with herbs and spices, as other 
gravies. A clever servant will contrive 
to supply at a trifling expense, as much 
gravy as is wanted for the use of a small 



GRAVIES. 



219 



family by stewing down the trimmings 
of meat and bones. * It may even be made 
of the shank-bones of legs and shoulders 
of mutton ; they should be thrown into 
water, and, after a good soaking and 
brushing, be long boiled. The water in 
which they are done will add greatly to 
the richness of gravy, as does the jelly of 
cow-heels. The latter must he all night 
in water, which causes the jelly to be of 
a good color. When boiled three hours, 
and become cold, let the fat be carefully 
taken off; and when apparently quite 
clear, lay some white paper upon it, rub- 
bing it close with a spoon, which will re- 
move every particle of grease, and it will 
be as pure as the jelly of a calf's foot. 

In preparing meat to stew for gravy ^ 
beat it with a mallet or rolling-pin, and 
score it across in various places, as this 
will make it give out its juices ; season 
it with pepper and salt, and put it into 
a stewpan with butter only, heating it 
gradually until it becomes brown, but 
shaking the pan frequently to see that it 
does not burn or stick to the bottom. It 
will generally be browned sufficiently in 
half an hour. If kept in a very cool 
place and covered closely in a stone jar, 
it will keep good for two or three days in 
summer, and more than a week in winter, 
but should not be thickened until it is 
meant to be used. 

Tarragon and knotted marjoram, by 
some called " London thyme," are a great 
improvement to gravies, as also all those 
condiments enumerated in the chapter on 
soups, but should be added only a short 
time before serving. 

Truffles and morels also thicken and 
improve the flavor of gravies and soups ; 
half an ounce being carefully washed 
of each, simmer them in a pint of water, 
and add the whole. 

In the preparation of large dinners for 
company, it is indispensable to procure 
strong gravy to color and impart flavor 
to sauces and ragouts, and this can be 



done by using coarse pieces of the lean of 
beef or veal, and the giblets or trimmings 
of poultry and game, with a small portion 
of a knuckle of ham ; but for this purpose 
it must be stewed for a long time, skim- 
med, strained, thickened, and afterwards 
flavored with whatever condiments are 
most suited to the dish it is to accompany. 

278.— STOCK FOR GEAVY. 

A good mode of making stock for gra- 
vies is to cut lean beef thin, put it into a 
gravy pot without any butter or fat, and 
set it on a fire covered, but take care it 
does not burn ; let it stay till all the gra- 
vy that comes out of the meat is dried up 
into it again, often shaking it; put as 
much water as will cover the meat, and 
let that stew away. Then put to the 
meat a small quantity of water, herbs, 
onions, spice, and a bit of lean ham ; sim- 
mer till it is rich, and keep it in a closet 
refrigerator. Do not take off the fat till 
going to be used. 




Closet Refrigerator. 

Or, an excellent stock may be made in 
this manner : — Put into a casserole three 
ounces of butter, four large caiTOts, .six 
middling-sized onions, three roots of pars- 
ley sliced ; a small sprig of thyme ; three 
cloves ; three bay-leaves ; two pounds of 
small fresh fish cut fine, with salt, pep- 
per, and one-half a bottle of white (but 
not sweet) wine, and nearly as much 
broth. Cover close, and simmer until the 



220 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



whole be mashed ; strain it through a 
fine sieve. In another casserole stew a 
pint of mushrooms, a little parsley and 
herbs, in half a pint of water, till the 
flavor of all be obtained ; strain both li- 
quors, and heat them together. 

2T9.— BEEF GRAVY. 
Cut a piece of the cheek or neck into 
pieces ; strew some flour over it ; mix it 
well with the meat, and put it into the 
.saucepan with as much water as will cov- 
er it ; an onion, a little allspice, a little 
pepper, and some salt ; cover it c'.ose, and 
when it boils skim it ; then throw in a 
small crust of bread, or raspings, and stew 
it till the gravj is rich and good ; strain 
it ofl' and pour it into a sauce boat. 

2S0.-GEAVY FOE A HAUlSfCH OF VENISON. 
Cut off the fat from two or three pounds 
of a Icin of old mutton, and set it in 
steaks on a gridiron for a few minutes, 
just to brown one side ; put them into 
a saucepan with a quart of water ; cover 
quite close for an hour, and simmer it 
gently ; then uncover it, and stew till the 
gravy is reduced to a pint ; season with 
salt only. 

281.— VEAL GEAVY. 
When all the meat has been taken from 
a knuckle of veal, divide the bones, and 
, lay them in a stewpot, Avith a pound of 
the scrag of a neck, an ounce of leau ba- 
con, a bunch of parsley, a little thyme, 
a bit of lemon peel, and a dessert-spoon- 
ful of pepper ; add as much water as -will 
cover them. Boil and skim it ; stop the 
pot down close, and let it simmer as slow- 
ly as possible three hours. Strain oti', 
and let it stand till cold; then skim it, 
and take the jelly from the sediment. 
Pound some mace tine, and boil it with 
two spoonfuls of water, and add to the 
gravy. If cream is to be put to it, do 
not add the salt until the gravy comes 
otJ" the fire. 



282.- 



-GEAVY TO MAKE MUTTON EAT 
LIKE VENISON. 



Pick a very stale woodcock or snipe ; 
cut it in pieces (but first take out the 
bag from the entrails), and simmer with 
as much unseasoned meat-gravj^ as you 
will want. Strain it and serve in the dish ; 
but if the mutton be not long kept, it 
will not acquire the venison flavor. 

283.— VELOUT^. 

Take one pound of veal, witli the re- 
mains of a fowl and a dozen full-grown 
mushrooms, or a smalkr lunnber of green 
truffles ; heat tliese in melted butter, or 
beef fat, without browning ; season with 
salt, pepper, nutmeg, or mixed spices, to 
which may be added a couple of carrots 
and onions, with a table-spoonful or two 
of flour. When boiled, skim off the fat, 
and let it simmer for one and a half hours, 
after which strain it, and keep it closely 
stopped for further use. 

284— BEEF GExWY. (French Eeceipt.) 
Trim with laj^ers of fat bacon the bot- 
tom of a thick stewpan ; cut four large 
onions in halves, and lay the flat part 
over the bacon ; take a few pieces of beef, 
put them in the same manner as in the veal 
gravy ; moisten with the first broth only. 
Let this sweat, to get all the gravy out of 
the beef, and when the brotii is reduced, 
thrust a knife into the meat ; lut it stew 
gently on a sk)w fire till the gravy is a 
light brown color. Next moisten with 
some broth ; throw in a large bunch of 
parsley and of green onions ; a little salt, 
and a peppercorn. Let the whole boil 
for an hour ; take the liat off. and drain 
it through a silken sie^e, to use when 
wanted. 

285.— GE A V Y— CLE AE. 

Slice some beef thinly, broil a part of 
it over a very clear, quick fire, just 
enough to give color to the gravy, but 



GRAVIES. 



221 



not to dress it ; put that with the raw 
into a tinned stewpan with a couple of 
onions, one or two cloves, whole black 
pepper, berries of allspice, and a bunch 
of sweet herbs ; cover it with hot water, 
give it one boil, and skim it two or three 
times, then cover it, and let it simmer 
till quite strong. 

286.— CUERY POWDERS. 

One ounce of ginger, the same of cori- 
ander-seed, one-half ounce of cayenne 
pepper, and two ounces of fine pale tur- 
meric ; these ingredients to be pounded 
separately to a fine powder, and then 
warmed by the fire, and mixed together. 
Put the powder into a wide-mouthed 
bottle, cork it well down, and put it into 
a dr}- place. 

Or : — One tablespoonful of coriander- 
seed, one teaspoonful of cumin-seed, the 
same of turmeric and of cayenne pepper, 
and one table-spoonful of commou flour. 
When to be used mix all these ingredi- 
ents in their .several proportions, with 
two table-spoonfuls of lemon-pickle and 
four of cream adding this mixture to the 
fried onions and butter, &c. 

Or : — One and a half ounces of mus- 
tard-seed scorched and finely powdered, 
four ounces of coriander seed powdered, 
four and a half ounces of turmeric, three 
ounces of black pepper, one and a quar- 
ter ounces of cayenne pepper, one ounce 
of the lesser cardamoms, one-half ounce 
of ginger, and one of cumin-.*: eed, all 
finely powdered. The flavor may be 
varied by the addition of all or any of 
the following ingredients : cinnamon, in 
powder, one ounce ; cloves, ditto, one- 
half ounce ; mace, ditto, one-h;df ouucc. 

287.— CURRY POWDER. 
(Kitchlner's tried Receipt.) 

Dry and reduce to a fine powder the 
following spices : 

Coriander-seed, three ounces, 



Turmeric, three ounces, 

Black pepper, one ounce, 
Mustard, one ounce, 

Ginger, one ounce, 

Lesser cardamoms half an ounce, 
Cayenne pepper, a quarter of an ounce, 
Cumin-seed, a quarter of an ounce. 
Thoroughly pound and mix, and keep 
them in a closely stopped bottle. Three 
ounces of the powder steeped ten days 
in a quart of vinegar or white wine, will 
impregnate it with the flavor. 

288.— DELHI CURRY POWDER. 
Twenty tea.spoonfuls of turmeric, 
eight of pounded chilis or cayenne pep- 
per, aud twelve each of cumin, corian- 
der-seed, and dried cassia-leaves. 

289.— A PLAIN CURRY. 
Put into a fryingpan a piece of butter, 
a small onion cut into pieces, aud two 
cloves of garlic ; fry these until brown, 
put the meat to the above, and add the 
curry powder, and sufficient cold water 
to cover the meat, and boil the whole 
gently until 'the meat is cooked ; then 
add the juice of a lemon, and a little 
salt. 

290.— THE ASPIC, A JELLY. 

Take a handfa! of aromatic herbs, 
such as burnct, chervil, aud tarragon. 
Boil them in white vinegar ; when the 
vinegar is well scented, pour into the 
stewpan some consomme of fowl reduc- 
ed ; season well before you clarify. 
When tl;e aspic is highly seasoned, break 
the whites of four eggs into an earthen 
[ pan, and beat tnem with an osier rod ; 
! tiirow the aspic into the whites of eggs, 
I and put the whole on the fire in a stew- 
j pan ; keep beating or stirring till the 
jelly gets white ; it is then very near boil- 
ing. Put it on jtlie corner o'f the stove, 
with a cover over it. and a little fire on 
the top of it. When quite clear and 
bright, strain it through a bag, or sieve. 
or napkin, to be used when wanted. 



222 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



N. B. If this is wanted for a mayon- 
aise, or as a jelly in moulds, make sure 
of its being stiff enough. Then put a 
knuckle of veal in a small stock-pot, a 
small part of a knuckle of ham, and two 
calves' feet, some trimming of fowl or 
game. Season this with onions, carrots, 
and a bunch of herbs well seasoned ; 
pour into it half a bottle of white wine, 
and moisten with good broth ; let it boil 
gently for four, hours, then skim away 
all the fat, and drain it through a silken 
sieve ; put that in a stewpan, with two 
spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, and four 
whites of eggs, salt, and pepper, to 
clarify ; and keep stirring it on the fire 
till the whole becomes very white, then 
put this on the side with a little fire 
over the cover ; when you find it clear, 
drain it in a cloth or jellj^-bag, and use 
it for aspic ; if not, do not put in any 
vinegar : jelly for pie or galantine does 
not require acid. 

291.— EPICUKEAN SAUCE. 
Indian soy, two ounces ; ■ walnut and 
mushroom ketchup, of each eight ounces ; 
port wine, two ounces; white pepper, 
briii. ed, half an ounce; shalots, three 
ounces ; cayenne, a quarter of an ounce ; 
cloves, half an ounce. Macerate for four- 
teen days in a warm place ; strain, and 
add sufficient white wine vinegar to make 
exactly one pint. The above forms a 
piquant sauce for chops, steaks, &c. For 
fish, a little essence of anchovy, and an 
additional quantity of vinegar, should be 
added. 



292.— CAEEACK OE INDIAN SAUCE FOE 
COLD MEAT. 

Two heads of garlic sliced, five spoon- 
fuls of soy, five spoonfijs of mushroom 
ketchup, eight spoonfuls of walnut pickle, 
fifteen anchovies, or five spoonfuls of es- 
sence of anchovies, three spoonfuls of 
mango pickle, one quart of vinegar — mix 



in a bottle and set it in the chimney corner; 
shake daily for a month. It is excellent 
without the mango. [This is an excel- 
lent sauce, and without the mango would 
be mild.] 

293 —HOT SPICE— A DELICIOUS ADJUNCT 
TO CHOPS, STEAKS, GEAVIES, SOUPS, &c. 

Three drachms each of ginger, black 
pepper, and cinnamon ; seven cloves ; 
mace half an ounce ; cayenne one quarter 
of an ounce ; nutmegs one ounce ; white 
pepper, one ounce and a half; mix. The 
quantity of cayenne may be increased, 
should the above not be enough to suit 
the palate. 

294.— A EICH GEAVT. 

Cut beef into thin slices, according to 
the quantity wanted ; slice onions thin, 
and flour both ; fry them of a light pale 
brown, but do not on any account suffer 
them to get black : put them into a stew- 
pan, pour boiling water on the browning 
in the frying-pan, boil it up, and pour on 
the meat. Put to it a bunch of parsley, 
thyme, and savory, a small bit of knotted 
marjoram, the same of tarragon, some 
mace, berries of allspice, whole black 
pepper, a clove or two, and a bit of ham, 
or gammon of bacon. Simmer till you 
have extracted all the juices of the meat, 
and be sure to skim the moment it boils, 
and often after. If for a hare, or stewed 
fish; anchovy should be added. 



295.— MELTED BUTTEE. 

Although it may be presumed that 
every cook who understands her business 
knows how to melt butter, it is yet con- 
stantly brought to table either too thick 
or too thin, and not unfrequently filled 
with lumps of flour or in a state of oil, 
and requires more care in the manage- 
ment than is generally thought neces- 
sary. 



SAUCES. 



223 



The excellence of melted butter greatly 
depends upon the pains taken to blend it 
with the flour before it is put upon the 
fire, the best plan of doing which is to 
rub them together with a knife on a 
wooden trencher. When well mixed, 
add two table-spoonfuls of hot water, or 
the same quantity of milk ; put it into a 
small pipkin, shaking it one way until it 
boils, and not leaving it an instant ; it 
must boil a minute to take off the raw- 
ness, and if made of fresh butter add a 
little salt. Remember that 'if you set 
it on the hot coals, or over the fire, it 
will be oily; if the butter and flour be 
not well mixed, it will be lumpy ; and 
if you put too much water, it will be thin 
and poor. By attending to these direc- 
tions, and only using sufficient flour to 
prevent the butter from oiling, it will 
be rich and smooth. 

Or : — Mix together by degrees two 
spoonfuls of flour in cold water ; make it 
sn ooth and thin ; then put on a pint of 
water, let it boil, stir in the flour and 
water to make the required thickness, 
cut half a pound of fresh butter in small 
pieces, put it into the flour and water, 
let it boil well ; it is then fit for use ; a 
pinch of salt may be required. 

When thin melted butter is required to 
pour over puddings, roast veal, &c., make 
it the same way, adding a larger propor- 
tion of water or milk, the latter render- 
ing it rather whiter than the water ; and 
if meant to be more rich than common 
use cream instead of milk. Indeed the 
Fi'ench frequently enrich melted butter 
by adding the yolk of a raw egg. 

296.— MAtTEE D'H6TEL BUTTEK. 
Put one-fourth of a pound of fresh butter 
uj on a plate, the juice of ^wo lemons, and 
two large table-spoonfuls of chopped pars- 
lej', half a teaspoonful of salt, and half 
that quantity of white pepper ; mix all 
well together, and keep in a cool place for 
use. 



297.— TO BROWN MELTED BUTTER. 

Put a lump of butter into a frying-i^an, 
and toss it round over the fire until it 
becomes brown ; then diedge some flour 
over it, which has been also browned by 
putting it either in the oven or before the 
fire, and stir it round with a spoon until 
the butter boils. 

By adding some of the flavored vine- 
gars and compound sauces to melted but- 
ter thus prepared, most of the fish-sauces 
can be made, and many of those in com- 
mon u«e are composed in tlii.5 simple 
mannei'. 

29S.— PARSLEY AND BUTTICR. 

Scald a large handful of parsley in 
boiling water that has some salt in it; 
when tender chop it fine, and stir it into 
some rather thick melted butter. There 
should be suflicient parsley to make the 
sauce green, and the parsley should not 
be put to the melted butter until about 
to be served, otherwise it will burn 
brown. 

299.— FENNEL SAUCE. 

Proceed as for parsley and butter. 

The first is used for the various pur- 
poses of fish, poultry, and fresh boiled 
meats; fennel mostly for mackerel. 

300.— CAPER SAUCE, WHITE. 
Put whole capers into melted butter, 
adding a littlc of the vinegar they are 
pickled in, a pinch of salt, and sufficient 
cream to make it white. This is used 
principally for boiled mutton. 

801.— CAPER SAUCE, BROWN. 

Take some thick' brown sauce, adding 
the vinegar the capers are pickled in; 
season it highly with cayenne and salt. 
Put capers to the sauce just before serv- 
ing ; and they must be used liberally. 

Nasturtium buds or seeds are some- 
times used as a substitute. 



224 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



802.— EGG SAUCE. 
Boil the eggs hard, cut them in small 
dice, and put the pieces into melted but- 
ter. The yolk may hou-ever be crushed 
to a powder, and used to thicken the 
butter. Or, if a more savor/ sauce is re- 
quired, boil two eggs hard, mince them 
very fine, add a third portion of grated 
ham or tongue, a very little white pepper, 
and the juice of a lemon ; warm it up in 
melted butter. It is chiefly used for 
roast fowl and salt codfish ; and if the 
butter be sound, the salted will be found 
quite as good for all these purposes as 
the fresh, 

303.— SAUCES FOR ROAST BEEF OK 
MUTTON. 

Grate horseradish on a bread-grater 
into a basin, then add two table-spoonfuls 
of cream with a little mustard and salt ; 
mix them well together ; then add four 
table-spoonfuls of the best vinegar, and 
mix the whole thoroughly. The vinegar 
and cream are both to be cold. This is 
a very fine sauce ; it may be served in a 
small tureen. 

Or : — Scrape the horseradish thin and 
chop it small, or grate it, which is better ; 
warm it in melted butter, adding a spoon- 
ful of mushroom ketchup, and one of 
walnut, or the vinegar from walnut 
pickle. 

Or: — Scrape very fine or grate the 
horseradish ; add a little made mustard, 
and two spoonfuls of pounded white 
sugar to four of vinegar : mix the whole 
well together, and place it under the 
meat, when nearl}^ done, to catch the 
gravy which drops from it while roast- 
ing. This sauce should be very thick. 

804.— HORSERADISH SAUCE 

Two teaspoonfuls of mustard, two of 
white sugar, half a one of salt, and a 
little more than a wineglass of vinegar — 



mixed and poured over a stock of grated 
horseradish. This sauce is good for 
beef. 

305.- QUEEN MARY'S SAUCE. 

Take a shoulder of mutton that has 
hung till it is tender. When three parts 
roasted, put a soup-plate under it, with 
three spoonfuls of hot water, the same 
of port ■wine, a shalot, an anchovy 
chopped fine, and a little pepper ; baste 
the meat with this and the gravy that 
drops from it. When the mutton is 
taken up, turn the inside upwards, score 
it various ways, pour the gravy over, 
and cover it with a quantity of fried 
crumbs of bread. 

806.— MANDEAM, 

Is a sauce commonly used in the West 
Indies with roast beef and mutton. It 
is made with a sliced cucumber, a chop- 
ped shalot, and a minced green capsicum, 
mixed up in a couple of table-spoonfuls 
of Madeira wine and vinegar ; and as 
capsicums can be had green during great 
part of the autumn, it can be a'so made 
elsewhere ; but neither chilis nor capsi- 
cums, if dried, will impart the same 
flavor. 

307.- MINT SAUCE, FOR ROAST LAMB. 

Pick the leaves off* the stalks ; wash 
and dry them carefully ; chop them with 
a sharp knife very quickly to preserve 
their green color ; put it into a boat ; add 
sufiicient vinegar to make it liquid, and 
powdered sugar to take ofi" the acidity 
of the vinegar. 

308.— MUSHROOM SAUCE. 

White. — Put the mushrooms into a 
stewpan with one ounce of butter, some 
pepper and salt, and squeeze over them 
the juice of half a lemon ; set them over 
the fire ; when they have given out their 
liquor, thicken it with flour and butter, 



and add suflScient cream to whiten the 
sauce. This is a very excellent sauce 
for fowls, rabbits, and all sorts of white 
fricassees. 

Or : — Wash and pick a pint of young 
mushrooms, and rub them with salt, to 
take off the tender skin ; put them into 
a saucepan with a little salt, some nut- 
meg, a blade of mace, a pint of cream, 
and a good piece of butter rubbed in 
flour. Boil them up, and stir them till 
done ; then pour it round the chickens, 
&c. Garnish with lemon. If you can- 
not get fresh mushrooms, use pickled 
ones, done white, with a little mushroom- 
powder with the cream. 

Brown. — It may also be made brown 
by either putting the iuttons into a pip- 
kin, and frying them with a little butter 
until they become of a delicate brown, 
and then stewing them in strong gravy 
of either beef or veal ; or by making it 
of old mushrooms chopped small, fried 
and stewed in the "same manner, and 
then seasoned according to taste. It is 
much used for cutlets and many sorts of 
ragouts. 

809.-CELERT SAUCE. . 

Strip the outer parts of the stem, and, 
after carefully washing the remaining 
portion, cut it into small pieces ; put to 
it a blade of mace, without any other 
spice, and stew it in good veal broth 
until very tender ; it will take a good 
deal of time, more particularly the thick 
hard end of the root. After this thicken 
it with melted butter, and flavor it with 
a small quantity of white wine ; or it 
may be thickened with boiled cream 
without wine. It is usually served with 
boiled turkey, but is very delicate with 
any kind of white poultry or veal. 

810.— ONION SAUCE. 

The onions must be peeled, and then 
boiled till they are tender, then squeeze 



the water from them, chop them, and 
add butter that has been melted, rich 
and smooth, with a httle good milk in- 
stead of water ; give it one boil, serve it 
with boiled rabbits, partridges, scrag or 
knuckle of veal, or roast mutton ; a 
turnip boiled with the onions draws out 
the strength. 

811.— ONION SAUCE, BEOWN. 

Peel and dice the onions ; some put 
an equal quantity of cucumber and of 
celery, into a quart stewpan, with an 
ounce of butter ; set it over a slow fire, 
and turn the onion about till it is slight- 
ly browned, then gradually stir in half 
an ounce of flour, add a little broth, 
and a little pepper and salt, boil up for 
a few minutes ; add a table-spoonful of 
claret, or port wine, and mushroom- 
ketchup ; you may add, if you think 
proper, lemon-juice or vinegar, and rub 
it through a tammy or fine sieve. 

812.— OYSTER SAUCE. 

In opening the oysters, save the liquor, 
and boil it with the beards, a bit of mace, 
and lemon-peel ; in the mean time throw 
the oysters into cold water, and drain it 
off; strain the liquor, and put it into a 
saucepan with the oysters just drained 
from the cold water, with sufficient quan- 
tity of butter, mixed with as much milk 
as will make enough sauce, but first rub 
a little flour with it ; set them over the 
fire, and stir all the while, and when the 
butter has boiled a few times, take them 
off, and keep them close to the fire, but 
not upon it, for if too much done, the 
oysters will become hard ; add a squeeze 
of lemon-juice, and serve ; a little is a 
great improvement. 

813.— SAUCE, HAREVT. 
Chop twelve anchovies, bone and all, 
very small, with one ounce of cayenne 
pepper, six spoonfuls of soy, six ditto of 



226 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEE. 



good walnut pickle, three heads of garlic 
chopped not very small, a quarter of an 
ounce of cochineal, two heads of shalots 
chopped rather large, one gallon of vine- 
gar ; let it stand fourteen days, stir it 
well t^vice or thrice every day, then pass 
it through a jelly bag, and repeat this till 
it is quite clear ; then bottle it, and tie a 
bladder over the cork. 

314.— SAUCE (Italian) FOR SALADS. 
Mix together three table-spoonfuls of 
sauce tournee, one of mustard, some tar- 
ragon and chervil shred small, with three 
table-spoonfuls of Florence oil ; putting 
in, however, a little at a time ; when per- 
fectl}' smooth, add also, by degrees, a glass 
of tarragon vinegar, and a little salt. 
This sauce cannot be too much mixed. 

ai5.-TAERAG0N SAUCE. 
Put two table-spoonfuls of tarragon 
vinegar into a saucepan, and reduce it to 
half the quantity, then put to it six 
spoonfuls of good butter sauce and mix 
all well together, and if not suflSciently 
strong put to it a little bit of glaze, and 
a very little more tarragon vinegar. 

316. -TOMATO SAUCE. 
Fresh tomatoes ; take out stalk, press 
them all tightly down in a stewpan, 
cover them, put them on the fire, strain 
off the liquor that is drawn from them, 
add to the tomatoes a slice of raw ham. 
two shalots, a few spoonfuls of good 
stock ; let it stew for an hour, then rub it 
through a tammy sieve. Have in an- 
other stewpan a little good brown sauce, 
put your tomato into it, boil all together, 
sea.son with cayenne, salt, sugar, and 
lemon-juice. 

817. -ORANGE GRAVY SAUCE. 

Put half a pint of veal gravy into a 

saucepan, add to it half a dozen basil 

leaves, a small onion, a roll of orange or 

lemon-peel, and let it boil for a few min- 



utes, and strain it off; put to the clear gra- 
vy, tlie juice of a Seville orange or lemon, 
half a teaspoonful of salt, the same quan- 
tity of pepper, and a glass of red wine, 
serve it hot ; shalot and cayenne may be 
added. 

318.— SAUCE A LA TAETAEE. 
Take the yolk of an egg, and drop 
into it verj^ slowly a table-spoonful of 
sweet oil, beating it up by degrees until 
perfectly mixed ; add a table-spoonful of 
vinegar, a little chopped parsley, a table- 
spoonful of French mustard, pepper and 
salt ; beat up the whole togetlier : make 
and keep the sauce in a cold place ; put 
it into a dish, and lay the boiled fowl 
upon it. This sauce should be beaten 
till it resembles cream. 

319.— MINT SAUCE. 

Make mint vinegar by adding a very 
little cod vinegar to the chopped leaves, 
with powdered sugar. 

820.— FENNEL SAUCE. 

Take as many branches of green fennel 
as you may require ; pick and wash it in 
the same inanner as parsley ; chop it very 
small, scald and then lay it on a sieve to 
cool ; put two spoonfuls of veloute, and 
the same of butter sauce into a saucepan, 
make them quite hot, take care to stir it 
well, that they ma}^ be properly mixed ; 
rub the fennel in a little butter, and 
then throw it into the sauce ; mix it in 
thoroughly, and season it with salt, pep- 
per, and nutmeg. 

821.— FRESH PORK SAUCE. 

Cut two or three good-sizf^^ onions 
into slices, and fry them -gUtly, then 
add two spoonfuls of cuUis, a- little 
broth, a few mushrooms chopped, a clove 
of garlic, vinegar, and spice ; let it boil 
half an hour, reduce to a proper consist- 
ence, skim and strain it. 



822.— GLAZE.— (A French Receipt.) 
Glaze is very peldom made on purpose, 
except on particular occasion.';. Lay on 
the fire a stock-pot, with plenty of veal, 
and a small quantity of beef and ham ; 
moisten with broth ; when stewed for a 
proper time, skim it well. The glaze of 
sweated broth is not so bright. Season 
the broth with carrots and onions, a large 
bunch of parsley, and green onions ; but 
no turnips or celery, for they give a 
bitter taste. If you should have a grand 
dinner, and wish to glaze of a nice co- 
lor, put more veal into your Espagnole 
(Spani.^h sauce.) The moment it comes 
to a glaze, put part of it into a small 
stewpan for the purpose of glazing only. 
The most common glaze is made of rem- 
■ nants of broth, the liquor of braize, or 
fricandeaux, &c., which are to be reduced 
on a brisk fire. If you keep your re- 
duction too long, it will become black 
and bitter. Always warm your glaze in 
the hot water bath, that it may not get 
too brown when you have a grand 
dinner. 



823.— SAUCE ROBERT.— {French Receipt.) 
Cut some onions into small dice, fry 
them of a fine brown, dust them with 
flour, and moisten them with some Span- 
ish sauce. Skim it, that the sauce may 
look bright ; put in a little pepper and salt, 
and just before you send up mix a spoon- 
ful of mustard. 

824.— SAUCE ROBERT. 
Cut a few onions into dice, which put 
into a frj-ing-pan with a bit of butter, 
and fr}' them lightly ; when nicely 
browned, add a dessert spoonful of flour, 
a ladleful of stock, the same of vinegar, 
some salt, and pepper ; reduce it to a 
, proper thickness, and when ready for 
table stir in two dessert-spoonfuls of 
mustard. 



825.— PURfiE OF ONION, OR SOUBISE 
SAUCE. 

Take a dozen white onions. After 
having peeled and washed them, cut them 
into halves, take off" the tops and bottoms, 
mince them as fine as possible, and blanch 
them to make them taste sweeter, and 
take off" the green color. Then let them 
melt on a small stove, with a little butter. 
"When they are thoroughly done, and no 
kind of moisture is left, mix four spoon- 
fuls of bechaiel. Season them well, 
rub the puree through a tammy, and 
keep the sauce hot, but without boiling. 
You mu.stalso put a small lamp of sugar 
with the sauce if necessary. When you 
have the oven hot put the onions herme- 
tically closed in a small stewpan, and let 
them simmer for one hour, with a small 
bit of ham. This method gives a better 
flavor. 

826.-BECnAMEL SAUCE. 

Take about half a quarter of a pound 
of butter, about three pounds of veal cut 
into small slices, a quarter of a pound of 
ham, some trimmings of mushrooms, two 
small white onions, a bunch of parsley 
and green onions ; put the whole into a 
stewpan, and lay it on the fire till the 
meat be made firm Then put three 
spoonfuls of flour ; moisten with some 
boiling-hot thin cream and a ladle of 
consomme. Keep this sauce rather thin, 
so that whilst you reduce it the ingre- 
dients may have time to be stewed 
thoroughly. Season it with a little salt, 
and strain it through a tammy. This 
sauce should retain no taste of flour, and 
be very palatable. 

327.— DUTCH SAUCE.— (French Receipt.) 

Put into .a stewpan a teaspoonful of 
flour, four spoonfuls of elder vinegar, a 
quarter of a pound of fresh butter, the 
j-olks of five eggs, and a little salt. Put 
it on the fire and keep continually stir- 
ring it. When it has acquired thickness 



228 



THE PRACTICAL HOTTSEKEEPEE. 



enough, work it well, that you may re- 
fine it. If it should not be curdled, you 
have no occasion to strain it through a 
tammy; season well and serve it up. 
Some people do not like elder vinegar ; 
in that case use tarragon or plain vine- 
gar. But odorous vinegar is far prefera- 
ble. 

328.— SAUCE BLANCHE— (Or French Melted 

Butter.) 
Put into a stewpan, a quarter of a 
pound of fresh butter, a spoonful of flour, 
a little salt, half a gill or glass of water, 
half a spoonful of white vinegar, and a 
little grated nutmeg. Put it on the fire : 
let it thicken, but do not allow it to boil, 
for fear it should taste of the flour. 
Serve hot. 

329.-WHITE EOUX *— (WHITE THICKEN- 
ING.)— (A French Receipt.) 

Put a good lump of butter into a stew- 
pan, let it melt over a slow fire, and, 
when melted, drain the butter and take 
out the buttermilk ; then put in the but- 
ter two or three spoonfuls of good flour, 
• enough to make a thin paste : keep it on 
the fire for a quarter of an hour, and 
take care not to let it color ; pour it into 
an earthen pan to use when wanted. 

330.— BEOWN THICKENING. 
(A French Eeeeipt.) 

Put into a stewpan a piece of butter 
proportionate to the quantitj^ of thick- 
ening intended to be prepared. Melt it 
gently ; take out the buttermilk, then 
put flour enough to make a paste. Fry 
it on a slow tire, and then put it again 
over very red ashes, till it "be of a nice 



* This is an indispensable article in cookery, and 
serves to thicken sauces ; the brown is for sauces of 
i,ho same color ; and the color must be obtained by 
glow degrees otherwise the flour will burn and 
pve a bitter taste, and the sauces become spotted 
with black. 



color. Observe, this is only to be ob- 
tained by slow degrees. When of a light 
brown pour it into an earthen pan and 
keep it for use. It will keep a long 
time. 

331.— LEMON SAUCE, WHITE, FOR BOILED 

FOWLS. 

Put the peel of a small lemon, cut 
very thin, into a pint of sweet, rich 
cream, with a sprig of lemon, thyme, and 
ten white peppercorns. Simmer it gen- 
tly till it tastes well of the lemon, then 
strain it and thicken it with a quarter of 
a pound of butter rubbed in a dessert- 
spoonful of flour ; boil it up ; then pour 
the juice of the lemon strained into it, 
stirring well ; dish the fowls, and then 
mix a little white gravy, quite hot, with 
the cream, but do not boil them together ; 
add salt according to taste. 

332.— LEMON SAUCE FOR BOILED FOWLS. 

Out small slices of lemon into very 
small dice, and put them into melted 
butter, give it one boil, and pour it over 
boiled fowls. 

833. -BREAD SAUCE. 

Cut in slices the crumb of a 
French roll, to which add a few pepper- 
corns, one whole onion, a little salt, and 
boiling milk enough to cover it ; let it 
simmer gently by the side of the fire till 
the bread soaks up the milk, add a little 
thick cream, take out the onion, and rub 
the whole through a sieve ; make it very 
hot, and serve with game or fowls. 

3.34.— BilCHAMEL SAUCE. 

Take some veal and ham, cut them 
into dices ; some carrots, cloves, onions, 
laurel leaves, shalots, parsley, and seal- 
lions, all chopped fine; pepper, grated 
nutmeg, a little salt and butter, a little 
veloute and consomme, reduce it to half, 
and then put in some cream ; mix it well 
with your sauce, boil it all together over 



SAUCES. 



229 



a quick fire, shaking it constantly for an 
hour ; if thick enough, strain it through 
a sieve. 

335.— LIVEE SAUCE. 
Take the hvers of poultry or game, 
chop them very small with parsley, seal- 
lions, tarragon leaves, and shalots ; soak 
them in a little butter over the fire, and 
then pound them ; add cullis stock, pep- 
per and salt. Give the whole a boil with 
two glasses of red wine, coriander, cin- 
namon, and sugar ; reduce and strain it, 
thicken with a bit of butter rolled in 
flour ; serve it in a sauce-boat. 

836.— LIVER SAUCE FOR BOILED 
CHICKENS. 

Boil the livers till you can bruise them 
with the back of a spoon ; mix them in 
a little of the liquor they were boiled in, 
melt some butter very smooth and put 
to them ; add a little grated lemon-peel, 
and boil up altogether. 

837.— TRUFFLE SAUCE. 

Take a pound of trufiies ; brush and 
wash them carefully ; put them in a 
stewpan with some good gravy, two wine- 
glasses of white wine, a small onion, a 
fiiggot of parsley and thyme, and an ounce 
of bacon fat. Let them stew gently un- 
til quite tender; take them out, strain 
and skim the gravy, thicken it with roux 
or a lump of flour and butter ; peel the 
truffles, cut them in slices as thick as a 
penny-piece, warm them in the sauce, and 
serve. 

888.— CHESTNUT SAUCE. 
Scald a score of chestnuts in hot water 
for ten minutes ; skin them ; let them 
stew gently for about half an hour in 
some good gravy seasoned with a glass 
of white wine, a httle white pepper, salt, 
and mace or nutmeg ; and when quite 
soft, serve them in the dish. 
15 



Or : — Pulp them through a colander 
to thicken the gravy, making it either 
iroicn or white, by using in the former 
heef-gravy., and in the latter veal-lroth, 
with pounded almonds, and without 
pepper. 

Either of these is equally fit for sauce 
to guinea-bird or turkey, as well as for 
stufiing the body of the bird. 

889,— SAUCES FOR WHITE POULTRY. 
BOILED. 

Liver-sauce. — Take the livers of as many 
fowls as may be required for the intend- 
ed quantity of sauce, or, that of a rabbit 
being much larger, take one liver, boil it 
with some sprigs of thyme and parsley ; 
dissolve in the water, after taking it out, 
two anchovies, boned; boil two eggs 
hard, leave out one white, and shred the 
rest with the hver, herbs, and anchovies ; 
pound them together in a mortar, adding 
a saltspoonful of grated lemon-peel and a 
little pepper and salt. Put it into the 
saucepan, squeeze upon it the juice of 
half a lemon, thicken the hquor with 
butter and a little flour, add to it the 
pounded ingredients, and stir it until fin- 
ished. 

Or: — If gravy be used instead of 
water, and hutter be omitted, the above 
may be properly employed as an excel- 
lent sauce for roasted rabbit, or for full- 
grown poultry. 

340.— WHITE SAUCE. 

Boil a large blade of mace, a few cloves 
and peppercorns, in half a pint of soft 
water, until the flavor be obtained ; 
strain it off, put it into a saucepan with 
four anchovies chopped fine, a quarter of 
a pound of butter rolled in flour, and 
half a pint of cream: boil and stir it 
well two minutes. Put some in a tu- 
reen, and the remainder in the dish. 

841.— FOR CHICKENS. 

Take the legs and necks, with a small 



230 



THE PRACTICAL nOUSEKEEPEK, 



bit of the scrag of veal or mutton ; put 
them into a saucepan with two blades of 
mace, a few white peppercorns, an an- 
chovy, a head of celery sliced, a bunch of 
sweet herbs, and a small bit of lemon- 
peel ; boil these in a quart of water to 
half a pint ; strain, and thicken it with 
a quarter of a pound of butter and some 
flour ; boil it five minutes, then put in two 
spoonfuls of mushrooms, and, having beat- 
en up the yolks of two eggs with a teacup- 
ful of cream, put it into the sauce, and 
keep shaking it one way over the fire till 
it is nearly boiling ; then put it into a 
sauce- tureen. 

342— VEGETABLE MAEPvOW SAUCE. 

Few sauces are more delicate as an ac- 
companiment for young chickens, whether 
roast or boiled, than vegetable marrow 
when deprived of its seeds, if stewed to 
a pulp and passed through a fine sieve, 
so as to form it into a puree, which may 
be then thinned either with fowl-broth 
seasoned with mace, or with cream and 
nutmeg. 

843.— SAUCES FOE KOAST FOWLS. 

Stew any moderate quantity of ham, 
veal, and mushrooms, with sweet herbs, 
a shalot, a little allspice, and a piece of 
butter, until all become brown ; then 
let the whole simmer gently for a long 
time in either weak broth or water, until 
they form a strong gravy ; strain it. and 
season it with any additional flavor 
that may be given by some of the made 
sauces. Serve hot in a sauce-tureen. 

Or : — Put into a small stewpan two 
slices of ham, a clove of garlic, a laurel- 
leaf, and sliced onion : add a little good 
gravy, a sprig of knotted marjoram, and 
a spoonful of tarragon vinegar ; simmer 
slowly an hour, strain off, and put into 
the dish or a boat. 

Or : — Boil some veal-gravy, pepper, 
salt, the juice of a Seville orange and a 
lemon, and one-quarter as much of port 



wine as of gravy ; and pour it into the 
dish or a boat. 

Or : — If wanted in a hurry, cut a few 
slices of calf's liver, or any kind of brown 
meat ; fiy them with a little lean bacon 
and an onion, and, when browned, pour 
upon them boiling water to what 
strength you please, and strain it. 

344.— WHITE SAUCE. 

It is seldom necessary to buy meat for 
this favorite sauce, as the proportion of 
that flavor rs but small. The water that 
has boiled fowls, veal, or rabbit, or a 
little broth that may be in the house, or 
the feet and necks of chickens, or raw 
or dressed veal, will suffice. Stew any 
of these with a little water, a bit of 
lemon-peel, some shced onion, a few 
white peppercorns, a little pounded mace 
or nutmeg, and a bunch of sweet herbs, 
until the flavor be good ; then strain it, 
add a little good cream, a piece of butter, 
and a little flour : salt to your taste. A 
squeeze of lemon may be added after the 
sauce is taken off the fire, shaking it 
well. Yolk of egg is often used in fric- 
assee ; but if you have any cream it is 
better, as the former is apt to curdle. 

Or: — Boil a stick of celery and a 
bunch of parsley in a pint of milk, add- 
ing white pepper and a littlp salt ; then 
put two ounces of butter into a sauce- 
pan, let it melt, add to it an onion sliced 
thin, dredge in flour until it is a paste, 
but do not allow it to become brown. 
Strain the milk, and add it by degrees to 
the butter and flour, stirring it very 
well ; then boil the whole together, stir- 
ring all the time, and boiling it until it 
is quite thick and smooth ; pass it 
through a fine sieve or tammy. If want- 
ed to be very rich, let it cool a little, and 
then add an egg previously beaten, and 
mix very gradually ; warm it over the 
fire, stirring it well, but do not let it 
boil, or it will curdle. 



SAUCES. 



231 



Or : — IMix a teaspoonful of flour with 
one-quarter pound of butter, a little salt, 
and ground white pepper ; let them be 
well blended together with a wooden 
spoon, then add a spoonful of vinegar, 
and one or two of water ; mix the whole 
together, stirring it one way over the 
fire. 

845.— CULLIS. 

Lay over the bottom of a stewpan as 
much lean veal as will cover it an inch 
thick : cover the veal with thin shces of 
undressed gammon, two or three onions, 
two or three ba3--leaves, some sweet 
herbs, two blades of mace, and a few 
cloves. Cover the stewpan, and set it 
over a slow fire ; but when the juices 
come out, let the fire be a little quicker. 
When the meat is of a fine brown, fill 
the pan with good beef broth, boil and 
skim it, then simmer an hour ; add a 
little water, mixed with as much flour as 
will make it properly thick ; boil it half 
an hour, and strain it. This will keep a 
week. 

846.— EOUX. 

WTiite. — Put two ounces of butter into 
a stewpan over a slow fire, allow it to 
melt, then drain off the buttermilk : 
make it into a paste by dredging flour 
over it, and keep it on the fire for a quar- 
ter of an hour, taking care that it does 
not lose its color. 

Broicn is made in the same manner, 
only allowed to fry of a dark color. 
French cooks use no other kind of 
browning. 

847.— LIAISON. 

To thicTcen or enrich WTiite or Fish 
Sovps, use the following : — Pour the soup, 
boiling hot, on the beaten yolks of two 
or three iresh eggs, from which the small 
tough substance found in it, and called 
'•the tread," should be removed, nor 
should the soup be suffered to boil after 



the eggs are added, as it is then apt to 
curdle. 

Or : — Break the yolk of an egg with 
three spoonfuls of cream, beat them up 
in the tureen and pour the boiling soup 
upon it. This may be made in the same 
proportion, and kept in a basin for other 
dishes. 

348.— SAUCE FOR FEICANDEAU, OE EOAST 
VEAL. 

Boil an unwashed anchovy cut small, 
with a cup of gravy, a glass of port wine, 
a shalot minced, and the juice of half 
a small lemon ; strain, and mix in the • 
dish with the gravy of the meat. Or 
use sorrel sauce. 

849.— SAUCE 1 LA MAtTEE D'H6TEL. 

Put eight table-spoonfuls of white 
sauce in a stewpan with four of milk ; 
boil it five minutes, then stir in three 
ounces of maitre d'hotel butter ; stir it 
quickly over the fire till the butter is 
melted, but do not let it boil. This 
sauce should be made at the time of 
serving. 

850.— SAUCES FOE GEESE. 

For a Green Goose. — Take half a pint 
of sorrel-juice, two glasses of white wine, 
a nutmeg quartered, a cupful of fried 
crumbs, and two lumps of sugar ; let all 
boil together, then beat it smooth, add- 
ing a piece of fresh butter, and serve it 
very hot in a tureen, or in the dish with 
the goose. It should not be made too 
thick with the bread-crumbs ; and if 
much acid should not be approved, the 
wine must be equal in quantity to the 
sorrel-juice. 

851.— GOOSEBEEET SAUCE. 

Wash some sorrel, put it into a cloth 
and press out the juice ; melt a piece of 
butter with flour, using this juice instead 
of water; let it be very thick. Scald 
green gooseberries until very tender, &nd 



add them to the sauce. This is a fine 
acid sauce if not spoiled with sugar. If 
not sweetened add a little cayenne pep- 
per. 

852.— APPLE SAUCE. 

Pare, core, and slice some apples ; and 
put them in a stone jar, into a saucepan 
of water, or on a hot hearth. If on a 
hearth, let a spoonful or two of water be 
put in to hinder them from burning. 
When they are done, bruise them to a 
mash, and put to them a piece of butter 
the size of a nutmeg, and a little brown 
"sugar if required; but it destroys the 
slight acid flavor of the apples, and its 
corrective to goose and pork. 

853.-SAVOEY APPLE SAUCE. 

Pulp the apples, and, if wanted of a 
good color, add to them a little juice of 
beet-root or cochineal : season with cay- 
enne pepper, and a glass of vinegar or 
lemon-pickle, taking care not to make it 
too acid. This will prove a substitute 
for tomato or sorrel sauce, when neither 
can be obtained ; if for the latter, a little 
spinach-juice will give it a color. 

854— SAUCE FOE DUCKLINGS. 
Take yoimg green onions or chives ; 
chop them very small, then put them 
into some thick melted butter, with pep- 
per, salt, and a spoonful of lemon-pickle ; 
stir it well together, and, when very hot, 
put it into the dish with the ducks upon 
it. Should the flavor of the onions be 
thought too strong, they may be scalded 
previously. 

Or : — Mix one-quarter pint of sorrel- 
juice, a glass of white wine, some scalded 
gooseberries, some white sugar, and a 
bit of butter. Boil them up and serve 
in a boat. 

855.— SAUCE FOR SUCKING-PIG. 

Take the inside of a French roll and 
boil it to a pulp, along with an onion and 



a little salt ; chop the brains and put 
them into a teacupful of the gravy that 
runs from the pig ; then take as much 
butter as will be sufficient for the sauce, 
and put into it a good squeeze of lemon, 
with half a glass of white wine. • 

Some cooks make a stuffing for the 
pig in nearly the same manner, only 
making it with less butter and more 
bread, besides sometimes seasoning it 
with sage. 

856,— CUPvRANT SAUCE. 

Clean an ounce of currants, and boil 
them in one-half pint of water for a few 
minutes, pour the whole over a teacup- 
lul of bread-crumbs ; let it soak, and 
then add a piece of butter rolled in flour, 
four or six cloves, and a glass of port 
wine ; beat it a httle, and stir it over the 
fire until it is quite smooth. 

357,— SAUCES FOR "WILD-FOWL. (English.) 

A teaspoonful of made mustard, the 
same of essence of anchovies and red 
pepper; a tablespoonful of ketchup, and 
a glass of claret. This receipt is from 
the Palace, and comes highly recom- 
mended. 

Or : — Simmer a teacupful of port wine, 
the same quantity of good meat gravy, 
a little shalot, a little pepper, salt, a grate 
of nutmeg, and a bit of mace, for ten 
minutes : put in a bit of butter and flour, 
give it all one boil, and pour it through 
the birds. In general they are not stufi"- 
ed, but may be done so if liked. 

Or : — Mince some shalots very fine, 
put them into a small saucepan with 
some peppercorns, two tablespoonfuls of 
strong, clear gravy, and the same quan- 
tity of vinegar ; when sufficiently boiled 
add a little salt, and strain it through a 
sieve. It may be served either hot or 
cold. 

858.— WHITE SAUCE. (Soyer's.) 

Cut and chop a knuckle of veal weigh- 



SATTCES. 



233 



ing about four pounds, into' large dice; 
also half a pound of lean bacon ; butter 
the bottom of a large stewpan with a 
quarter of a pound of butter ; add two 
onions, a small carrot, a turnip, three 
cloves, half a blade of mace, a bouquet of 
a bay-leaf, a sprig of thyme, and six of 
parsley ; add a gill of water ; place over 
a sharp fire, stirring round occasionally, 
until the bottom of the stewpan is cover- 
ed with whitish glaze ; then fill up with 
three quarts of water ; add a good tea- 
spoonful of salt, and let it simmer at the 
corner of the fire an hour and a half, 
keeping it well skimmed ; pass it through 
a hair sieve into a basin. In another 
stewpan put a quarter of a pound of but- 
ter, with which mix six ounces of flour, 
stirring over the fire about three minutes 5 
take off, keep stirring until partly cold, 
when add the stock all at once, contin- 
ually stirring and boiling for a quar- 
ter of an hour ; add half a pint of boil- 
ing milk ; stir a few minutes longer, add 
a few chopped mushrooms ; if handy, pass 
through a hair sieve into a basin, until re- 
quired fur use, stirring it round occasion- 
ally until cold. The above being a sim- 
plified white sauce, will be referred to 
very often in receipts. 

859.— BROWN SAUCE. (Soyer's.) 
Put two ounces of butter into a stew- 
pan ; rub it over the bottom ; peel two 
or three large onions ; cut them in thick 
slices ; lay them on the bottom ; cut in- 
to small pieces about two pounds of 
knuckle of veal,* all meat, or three 
pounds if with bone ; a quarter of a 
pound of lean bacon, cut small, two cloves, 
a few peppercorns, a table-spoonful of 
salt, two bay-leaves, a gill of water ; set 
it on a brisk fire ; let it remain ten min- 
utes, when stir it well round, subdue the 
fire, let it remain twenty minutes longer, 

* Half veal and beef can be used ; or if no veal, 
all beef. 



and stir now and then until it has a nice 
brown color; fill your pan with three 
quarts of water ; when boiling, set it on 
the corner of the stove, with the lid three 
parts on the saucepan ; when boiling, 
skim fat and all ; after one hour, or one 
hour and a half simmering, pass it through 
a sieve into a basin. To make the thick- 
ening or Rouxfor it, proceed as follows : 
— Roux. Put two ounces of butter into 
a pan, which melt on a slow fire, then 
add three oimces of flour, stir it with a 
wooden spoon until getting a thin deep 
yellow color ; this in France is called Roux, 
being very useful in cookery, and will be • 
often referred to in these receipts. This 
process will take ten minutes, when re- 
move from the fire for two minutes to 
cool ; then add at once three pints and a 
quarter of the above stock ; very quickly 
set it on the fire to boil ; remove it to the 
comer to simmer, and skim. It ought to 
be entirely free from grease, and of a light 
chestnut color. 

360.— DEMI-GLAZE— THIN BROWN SAUCE 
FOR MADE DISHES. 

When I have a small dinner-party, I 
always, as I told you before, make small 
quantities of white and brown sauce as 
above, but this is a nice way of clarifying 
a brown sauce without much trouble, and 
makes it a beautiful transparent brown 
color ; but although I have made it quite 
a study that each entree, or made dish 
for daily use, should make its own sauce, 
yet I must impress upon you that this 
sauce is the real key to cooking a good 
and ceremonious dinner. Put a pint of 
brown sauce, in a middle-sized stewpan ; 
add to it half a pint of broth or consom- 
me, put it on the stove, stir with woodeu 
spoon, let it boil as fast as possible, take 
the scum off which will rise to the sm'- 
face ; reduce it until it adheres lightly to 
the spoon, pass it through a sieve or tam- 
my into a basin ; stir now and then until 
cold, to prevent a skin forming on the top ; 



234 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



put it by until wanted for use. It will 
keep for a week in winter, by adding half 
a gill of white broth every other day, and 
giving it a boil ; the addition of a table- 
spoouful of tomato sauce gives it a beau- 
tiful color ; use where indicated. 

861.— THIN BEOWN SAUCE OF MUSH- 
ROOMS. 

Put twelve table-spoonfuls of thin 
brown sauce in a small stewpan to boil, 
then have six or eight small mushrooms, 
well cleaned and washed, chop them fine, 
and place in sauce, and boil for five min- 
utes; taste if it is to your liking; the 
addition of a little sugar is an improve- 
ment; a little cayenne, if liked, may be 
introduced. The sauce is good for cutlets, 
broiled fowl, and game, &c, 

862.— ESCHALOT SAUCE. 

Chop fine about a good table-spoonful 
of eschalot, place it in the corner of a 
napkin, and pour water over ; press un- 
til dry, and put in a small stewpan with 
two table-spoonfuls of vinegar, one clove, 
a little mace ; boil two minutes, add ten 
table-spoonfuls of demi-glaze, boil a little 
longer, add a little sugar, and serve. 

863.— PIQUANT ok SHAEP SAUCE. 
Put two table-spoonfuls of chopped 
onions, or eschalots, cleaned as above, into 
a stewpan ; put also four table-spoonfuls 
of vinegar, and a bay-leaf, and boil ; then 
add ten table-spoonfuls of brown sauce, 
half a one of chopped parsley, ditto of 
green gherkins ; boil five minutes ; skim, 
add a little sugar, taste if well seasoned, 
take out bay-leaf and serve. 

864.— TAPvKAGON SAUCE. (Soyer's.) 
Put eight table-spoonfuls of demi-glaze, 
and four of broth, into a stewpan ; boil 
for a few minutes ; add a table-spoonful 
of vinegar; have ready picked twenty 
leaves of fresh tarragon ; put in to sim- 



mer two minutes, and serve with any 
kind of poultry, but especially spring 
chickens. 

865.— BKOWN CUCUMBER SAUCE. 
Peel a small fresh cucumber ; cut it in 
neat pieces ; put in a stewpan with a lit- 
tle sugar ; add half an ounce of butter ; 
set it on a slow fire ; stir it now and 
then ; add twelve table-spoonfuls of brown 
sauce, and eight of broth ; let it simmer 
till tender ; skim the butter off; remove 
the cucumber into another stewpan ; pass 
the sauce, reduce it a little, taste it, pour 
over, and serve. 

866.— MINCE HEEB SAUCE. 
Put two table-spoonfuls of finely chop- 
ped onions in a stewpan, and a table- 
spoonful of oil ; place it on the fire ; stir 
a few minutes, add ten table-spoonfuls of 
demi-glaze, and four of broth or water ; 
boil, skim ; if too thick, and the scum 
should not rise, add half a gill of broth 
or water; boil, and reduce to a proper 
thickness, and add a table-spoonful of 
chopped parsley ; if at hand, one of mush- 
rooms, and season with a little cayenne ; 
the juice of a quarter of a lemon; serve. 
I often introduce a little garlic in this. 

867.-EOBEET SAUCE. (Soyer's.) 
Peel and cut up two good-sized onions ; 
put them in a stewpan with an ounce of 
butter, till they are a nice yellow color ; 
then add eight table-spoonfuls of demi- 
glaze, and two of water or broth ; skim, 
boil quickly ; when of a proper thickness 
add a good table-spoonful of French mus- 
tard ; season rather hiah ; if no French 
mustard, use English, but it completely 
changes the flavor, though still very pal- 
atable. 

36S.— EAYIGOTE SAUCE. 

Put in a stewpan one middle-sized 
onion sliced, with a little carrot, a little 



SAUCES. 



235 



thyme, bay-lea^ one clove, a little mace, 
a Uttle scraped horseradish, a little but- 
ter ; fry a few minutes, then add three 
teaspoonfuls of vinegar, ten table-spoon- 
fuls of brown sauce, four of broth ; when 
boiling, skim, add a table-spoonful of cur- 
rant jelly ; when melted, pass all through 
a tammy, and serve with any kind of 
meat or poultry j with hare or venison 
it is excellent. 

369. -BROWN MUSHROOM SAUCE. 
Clean and cut twelve small mushrooms 
in slices ; place them in a stewpan with 
a little butter, salt, pepper, the juice of a 
quarter of a lemon ; set it on a slow fire 
for a few minutes, then add ten spoonfuls 
of demi-glaze ; boil till they are tender, and 
sei-ve. A little mushroom ketchup may 
be introduced. 

3T0.— ORANGE SAUCE FOR GAME. 
Peel half an orange, removing all th« 
pith ; cut it into slices, and then in fillets ; 
put them in a gill of water to boil for 
two minutes ; drain them on a sieve, 
throwing the water away ; place in the 
stewpan two spoonfuls of demi-glaze, or 
ten of broth ; and, when boiling, add the 
orange, a little sugar ; simmer ten min- 
utes, skim, and serve. The juice of half 
an orange is an improvement. This is 
served with ducklings and water fowl : 
those that like may add cayenne and 
mustard. 

871.— GAELIC SAUCE. 
Though many dislike the flavor of this 
root, yet those that like it ought not to 
be deprived of it. Put in a stewpan ten 
table-spoonfuls of demi-glaze, a little 
tomato sauce, if handy ; boil it a few min- 
utes, scrape half a clove of garlic, put it 
in with a little sugar, and serve. 

872.— MINT SAUCE FOR LAMB. 
Take three table-spoonfuls of chopped 
leaves of green mint, three table-spoon- 



fuls of brown sugar, and put into a basin, 
with half a pint of brown vinegar ; stir 
it well up, add one salt-spoonful of salt, 
and serve. 

873.— LIAISON OF EGGS. 

Break the yolks of two eggs in a ba- 
sin, with which mix six spoonfuls of milk, 
or eight of cream ; pass it through a fine 
sieve, and use when directed. 

874— ANCHOVY BUTTER SAUCE. 

Put into a stewpan eight spoonfuls of 
demi-glaze, or three of broth ; when boil- 
ing, add one ounce of anchovy butter ; stir 
continually till melted ; serve where di- 
rected. 

875.— SOTER'S SAUCE. 

Put six spoonfuls of demi-glaze into a 
stewpan ; when hot, add four spoonfuls 
of Soyer's Brown Sauce ; let boil, and 
serve with either chop, steak, cutlet, poul- 
try, or game. 

376.— PAPILLOTTE SAUCE. 

Scrape half an ounce of fat bacon, put 
it in a pan with four table-spoonfuls of 
chopped onions ; stir over the fire for a few 
minutes, then add ten table-spoonfuls of 
brown sauce and boil ; then add a table- 
spoonful of mushrooms chopped, one ditto 
of parsley, a little nutmeg, a little pepper 
and sugar, a quarter of a clove of scraped 
garlic ; reduce till rather thickish ; put 
on dish till cold, and use it for any thing 
you may put up '"en Pai)illotte.''^ 

377.— TOMATO SAUCE. (Soyer's.) 

if fresh, put six in a stewpan ; having 
removed the stalk, and squeezed them in 
the hand to remove pips, &c., add half an 
onion, sliced, a sprig of thyme, a bay- 
leaf, half an ounce of celery, one ounce 
of ham or bacon, same of butter, teaspoon- 
ful of sugar, same of salt, a quarter one 
of pepper, set on fire to stew gently j 



236 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



when all tender, atld a table-spoonful of 
flour, moisten with half a pint of broth, 
boil five minutes ; add a little cayenne, 
taste if highly seasoned, pass it through 
sieve or tammy, put it back in stewpan, 
until it adheres rather thick to the back 
of the spoon, and use it for any kind of 
meat or poultry. If preserved tomato, 
proceed as for poivrade sauce, respecting 
the vegetables, omitting the vinegar, and 
adding the tomato, instead of the brown 
sauce, with a table-spoonful of flour and 
broth to bring it to a proper thickness ; 
pass it through a sieve, and serve as 
above. 

8T8.-CUEET SAUCE. (Soyer's.) 

Put into a pan four good-sized onions, 
sliced, and two peeled apples, with a 
quarter of a pound of butter, the same of 
lean ham, a blade of mace, four pepper- 
corns, two bay-leaves, two sprigs of 
thyme ; stir them over a moderate fire 
until the onions become brown and ten- 
der, then add two table-spoonfuls of the 
best curry powder, one of vinegar, two 
of flour, a teaspoonful of salt, one of su- 
gar ; moisten it with a quart of broth or 
milk, or even water, with the addition of 
a little glaze ; boil till in a pulp, and ad- 
hering raiher thickly to the back of the 
spoon ; pass all through a fine sieve or 
tammy ; give it another boil for a few 
minutes, put it in a basin, and use when 
required. Any kind of meat, poultry, 
and fish, or parts of game, are excellent 
warmed in this sauce, and served with 
well boiled and dry rice. I have kept 
this sauce in a cool place in the winter 
for a month, boiling it now and then. 
The quantity of powder may be omitted, 
and a spoonful of curry paste used, or 
some mangoes. 

870.— A VERY GOOD AND USEFUL WHITE 
SAUCE — (quite new.) 

Put a quart of white sauce in a stew- 
pan of a proper size on a fii-e ; stir con- 



tinually until reduced to one-third ; put 
two yolks of eggs in a basin, stir them 
well up, add your sauce gradually, keep 
stirring, put back in stewpan, set it to 
boil for a few minutes longer, then add 
one pint of boiling milk, which will 
bring it to its proper thickness ; that is, 
when it adheres transparently to the 
back of a spoon ; pass through a tammy 
into a basin, stir now and then till cold. 
If not immediatel}' required, and I have 
any stock left, I use half of it with half 
of milk. I also try this waj', which is 
very convenient ; when the yolks are in, 
and well boiled, I put it in a lar'ge galli- 
pot, and when cold, cover with pieces of 
paper; it will keep good in winter for 
two or three weeks, and above a week in 
summer : when I want to use a little of 
it, I only take a spoonful or two and 
warm it on the fire, and add enough 
milk or white broth to bring it to a 
proper thickness, and use when required. 
This sauce is very smooth, and never 
turns greasy ; it lies beautifully on fowl, 
or any white made dish ; the addition of 
a drop of cream gives it a ver >■ fine white 
appearance. 

880.— ONION PUE^E SAUCE. 

Peel and cut six onions in slices ; put 
in a stewpan, with a quarter of a pound 
of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, one of 
sugar, a half one of pepper ; place on a 
slow fire to simmer till in a pulp, stir- 
ring them now and then to prevent them 
getting brown, then add one table-spoou- 
ful of flour, a pint of milk, and boil till 
a proper thickness, which should be a 
little thicker than melted butter ; pass 
through a tammy, warm again, and serve 
with mutton cutlets, chops, boiled rab- 
bits, or fowl 5 by not passing it, it will 
do for roast mutton and boiled rabbit as 
onion sauce. 

381.— PUE^E OP CAULIFLOWEE SAUCE. 

Boil a caulitlower well in three pints 



SAUCES. 



237 



of water, in which you have previously 
put one ouuce of butter, one tables poon- 
ful of salt ; when done, chop it up, hav- 
ing prepared and slowly cooked in a 
stewpan an onion sliced, a little celery, 
half a turnip, one ounce of ham, two of 
butter, a little bay-leaf, mace, add then 
the cauliflower, stir round, add a table- 
spoonful of flour, moisten as above for 
onions, pass, and finish the same way. 
It may be made of Jerusalem artichoke 
or turnip. 

882— BROWN SHARP SAUCE, OR POI- 
VRADE.— (French Receipt.) 

Put a small bit of butter, a small car- 
rot cut into dice, a few shalots cut in the 
same way, some parsley roots, six green 
onions, some parsley, a few slices of ham, 
a clove, a little thyme, the half of a bay- 
leaf, a few grains of peppercorn and all- 
spice, with a little mace, in a small stew- 
pan. Let the stewpan be put on a slow 
fire, till it begins to be of a fine brown 
all round; then keep stirring with a 
wooden spoon ; pour into the stewpan 
four spoonfuls of white vinegar and a 
small bit of sugar. Let this reduce 
nearly to a glaze ; then moisten with 
some Spanish sauce and a little consom- 
me, that you may be enabled to take the 
fat off from the sauce ; season with cay- 
enne and a little salt. Taste whether it 
be salt enough, but obsei've that it 
should not be too acid ; skim off" the fat, 
and strain the sauce through a tammy, 
and serve up. When this sauce is well 
made, not too thick, and of good color, 
it is good with the following entrees : — 
Cotelettes Maintenon, broiled chicken, 
broiled pigeon, fried chicken, marinades 
of all sorts, such as calf's feet, lamb'.s 
ears, trotters, calf's head, and generally 
with every thing requiring tart sauces. 
You may add to it a little preserved to- 
matoes, to give a good color and sharp 
taste. 



383.— WHITE CUCUMBER PUR^E. 

Peel two, or one larga one, cut in slices, 
put in the stewpan with the same veg- 
etables, &c. as for the cauliflower ; when 
tender, add a table-spoonful of flour, four 
gills of milk or broth, boil, finishing aa 
the cauliflower. 

884.- SORREL SAUCE, OR PURfiE. 

Wash well six handfuls of sorrel, put 
it nearly dry into a middle-sized stewpan 
with a little butter ; let it melt, add a ta- 
ble-spoonful of flour, at easpoonful of salt, 
half one of pepper ; moisten to a thick 
puree, with milk, or broth, or cream; 
pass it through a sieve, put it back in a 
stewpan, warm again, add two whole 
eggs, two ounces of butter, and stir well, 
and serve where directed. 

885.- SPINAGE PUR^E. 

Endive puree is often used in France, 




Spice Box. 

and called chicoree. This puree maj' be 
made like the cauliflower, or only plain 
boiled, plainly chopped, put into a pan 
with two ounces of butter, a gill of white 
sauce, a little grated nutmeg, and a little 
salt, pepper, and sugar. 

386.— INDIA-PICKLE SAUCE. 

Take some gravy, thicken with flour 
and butter ; cut in small dice some In- 
dia-pickle, add a little of the vinegar, 
let it boil up, throw in the dice, and 
serve hot. This is for salmon cutlets ; 



238 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



it is also good for broiled mackerel or 
for grilled chicken. 

887.— SAUCE PIQUANTE. 

Put into a stewpan the miiscles of a 
knuckle of veal, some slices of ham or 
bacon, a cupful of gravy, a spoonful or 
two of strong vinegar, a bay-leaf, a clove 
of garlic, a little thyme, one clove, and a 
little salt; skim it, and, vrhen it has 
stewed a quarter of an hour, pass it 
through a sieve : then add sorrel, parsley, 
and mushrooms, all chopped fine, and 
whole capers ; heat it again, and serve it 
in the dish. 

Or : — Put one or two ounces of but- 
ter, with two shred onions, a carrot, a 
parsnip, a little thyme, laurel, basil, two 
cloves, two shalots, a clove of garlic, and 
some parsley, into a stewpan ; turn the 
whole over the fire till it becomes brown, 
then shake in some fl.our, and moisten it 
with some broth and a spoonful of vine- 
gar. Let it boil over a slow fire ; skim 
and strain it ; then add pepper and salt ; 
and serve with any dish of which you 
would wish to have the flavor heightened. 

388.— 1 L'ESPAGNOLE— (or Spanish Sauce.) 

Besides a few slices of ham and veal, 
put into a stewpan any remains which 
you may have of poultry and game, and 
let them boil for one hour in water more 
than sufficient to cover them ; after 
which skim off the fat from the gravy, 
add fried onions, sweet herbs, a bay-leaf, 
spice, mace, and mushrooms, with minced 
carrots, celery, shalots, and a small 
clove of garlic, and leave the whole to 
stew until quite mashed: it will take 
full two hours. Then strain it, and if 
the gravy be not strong enough add suf- 
ficient coulis or glaze to make it so. If 
it wants flavor, add soy, and if mush- 
rooms have not been one of the ingredi- 
ents, put in ketchup : if not thick enough. 
a little arrowroot, or common flour, with 



a piece of butter, will have the effect ; 
but if the gravy be truly rich, it will not 
require the addition. 

Such is the foundation of the sauce ; 
but in most cases white wine is added, 
for the purpose of stewing game : it is 
needless to say that Madeira and sherry 
are best, but Cape or ginger wine wUl 
be found good substitutes. 

889.— SAUCE, A LA PEOVENgALE. 

Put into a casserole two spoonfuls of 
sweet oil, a shalot, a clove of garlic, and 
some mushrooms, all minced, and placed 
upon the fire in any sort of good strong 
broth, seasoned with pepper and salt, to- 
gether with pot-herbs ; leave it there for 
half an hour ; then skim it so far as to 
remove much of the appearance of the 
oil ; strain it, and add some white wine 
to suit the taste. 

890.— SAUCE MAIGEE. 

Fry a large quantity of onions and put 
them along with the above into the casse- 
role, with white wine, until well brown- 
ed ; then strain it ; add a table-spoonful 
of salad-oil with a little flour, and mix 
it gently, but continually, for a few min- 
utes, until completely mingled. 

891.— A L' H0LLANDAI8E, 

For meat, fowl, or fish. Put six 
spoonfuls of water and two of tarragon 
vinegar, with one ounce of butter, into 
a stewpan ; warm and thicken it with 
the yolks of two eggs. Make it quite 
hot, but do not boil it ; stir it all the 
time ; squeeze in the juice of half a 
lemon, and strain it through a sieve. 
Season with salt and cayenne. It should 
be quite thick. 

892.— SPINACH SAUCE. 

Pick off the stalks of the spinach ; 
wash and drain it ; then, without water, 
stew tUl it will beat to a mash. Put in 



a good piece of butter and some milk ; 
simmer, and stir over a slow fire till the 
sauce be of the consistence of thick melt- 
ed butter. Add a little pepper and salt 
while dressing. 

898.— PUE^E OF CUCUMBERS. 

Slice thin some middling-sized cucum- 
bers, drain the liquor from them, and 
put them, with four onions, into a stew- 
pan, with a piece of butter ; when suffi- 
ciently stewed to pulp through a col- 
ander, add a large teacupful of cream, a 
little flour and pepper. Boil twenty 
minutes and, when going to serve, put 
in salt. 

894.— SAUCE 1 LA SAINTE MENEHOULD. 

Put some butter into a stewpan, shake 
over it a little flour; add a cupful of 
cream, parsley, young onions, one-half a 
bay-leaf, and a shalot. Put it on the 
fire, keeping it stirred. Then pass it 
through a sieve : put it on the fire again 
with some chopped parsley, a little pep- 
per, and minced mushrooms. Serve it 
over boiled fowls. 

895.— LA MAGNONNAISE. 

Perhaps the most esteemed mode of 
making sauce for any sort of cold meats 
or fish is that known in France 1 y this 
title. 

Put into a round-bottomed basin the 
yolk of an egg and a pinch of salt ; stir 
in very quickly, drop by drop, two table- 
spoonfuls of sweet oil, working the spoon 
very rapidly round, to work in the oil ; 
when it is thick add a few drops of tar- 
ragon vinegar, then moi'e oil, until there 
is sufficient sauce; thin it with a li'tle 
more vinegar. It should be quite thick, 
and rather acid. 

896.— CARACHI. 

Take one head of garlic and cut each 
clove into two pieces ; two teaspoonfuls 



of cayenne pepper, three tablespoonfuls 
of soy, three of mu.shroom ketchup, 
three of walnut pickle, six anchovies dis- 
solved, two or three spoonfuls of man- 
goe or India pickle liquor, and a pint of 
the best vinegar, with sufficient cochi- 
neal to color. 

Both the above are thus sauces mai- 
gi'es, but when not intended for fast-daj'S, 
may be much impi'oved by being made 
into a puree with an admixture of melt- 
ed calf's-foot jelly. 

89T.— SAUCE KOYALE 

Is made by cutting a slice of white 
bread, and stewing it iu white broth 
until it is quite thick ; then take it off 
the fire ; pound in a mortar the yolks of 
two hard-boiled eggs, and half a dozen 
almonds reduced to paste, with the breast 
of a cold roast fowl ; mix this with the 
eggs and bread, and pound them all to- 
gether with a little pepper and salt; 
add a sufficient quantity of cream to 
make it of a proper consistence, and sim- 
mer the whole over the fire, stirring it 
all the time without letting it boil. 

898.— SAUCE A LA REINE 

Is nearly the same. Bruise the breast 
of a chicken to a paste, and moisten it 
with a consomme of veal or fowl broth ; 
let it stew gently over a slow fire, and 
then pass it through the tamis and mix 
with it some bechamel sauce. Then 
have ready the yolks of two eggs beaten 
up with a large spoonful of thick cream, 
and stir the mixture into the sauce a 
minute or two before serving it up. 

Both the above are served at the most 
fashionable tables, and may be used with 
turkey-poults and guinea-birds. 

899.— THE OEIGINAL OUDE SAUCE 

Is made with two ounces of butter 
put into a stewpan ; when melted add 
six onions shred ; as soon as they begin 



240 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



to take color, put in one and a half dozen 
of chilis chopped fine ; stir it well to- 
gether for four minutes, then put in a 
small quantity of dried salt fish, not ex- 
ceeding two square inches, chopped very 
fine; keep stirring, and, as the butter 
dries, add a large cupful of the pulp of 
fresh tomatoes, a teaspoonful of salt, the 
juice of a lemon, and a little water ; mix 
the whole very well together, and let it 
be of the consistence of a paste, though 
not too dry. It is eaten with cold meat, 
but will not keep. 

400.— CHETNEY AND QUIHI SAUCE. 

Take eight ounces of sharp apples 
pared and cored, eight ounces of toma- 
toes, eight ounces of salt, eight ounces of 
brown sugar, eight ounces of raisins, 
four ounces of red chilis, four ounces of 
ginger powdered, two ounces of garlic, 
and two ounces of shalots. Pound all 
these ingredients separately in a mortar, 
using cayenne pepper if chilis are not to 
be had. Mix the whole together, and 
add three quarts of vinegar and one 
quart of lemon-juice. Place the jar con- 
taining this composition on a stove, or 
by the side of a fire in a heat not less 
than one hundred and thirty degrees 
Fahrenheit, and stir it twice a-day for a 
month ; then strain, but do not squeeze 
it dry. Bottle the liquor, which is an 
excellent sauce for anj' kind of fish or 
meat, hot or cold. A teaspoonful will 
impart a fine flavor to any ragout, or be 
sutficient for a pint of broth. The resi- 
due, which is the chetney, should be 
put into pots or jars. It may also be 
used in sauces and gravies, or eaten like 
mustard, with cold meat, or spread upon 
g]-ills, being an excellent ingredient for 
devils, wet or drj\ 

401.— VEAL GRAVY, OR BLOND OF 
VEAL. (Ude.) 

Put a few slices of Westmoreland ham 
(the lean only) into a pretty thick stew- 



pan, and lay over them some fleshy pieces 
of veal. The rump may be used. Pour 
into the stewpan a sufficient quantity of 
stock -broth to cover about half the thick- 
ness of the meat. Let it sweat on a stove 
over a brisk fire. Watch the stewpan 
and the contents for fear of burning. 
When the broth is reduced, thrust a 
knife into the meat that all the gravy 
may run out ; then stew the glaze more 
gently. When the whole is absolutely 
glazed, of a good color, let it stew til) 
brown, but take care it does not burn, to 
prevent which, put it on red-hot ashes. 
Keep stirring the stewpan over the fire, 
that the glaze may be all of the same 
color, and turn the meat upside down, 
that it may not stick. When the glaze 
is of a dark-red color, moisten with some 
hot broth, and let the glaze detach before 
the stewpan is put on the fire, for it might 
still burn. Season with mushrooms and 
a bunch of parsley and green onions. 
When the gravy has boiled for two hours, 
it will be done. Take off" the fat, and 
strain it through a silken sieve. 

402.— THE CULLIS— (a Brown Jelly.) 

^lake the cullis in the same manner as 
veal gravy, with slices of ham and slices 
of veal, &c. When the glaze is of a nice 
color, moisten it, and let it stew entirely. 
Season it with a bunch of parsley and 
green onions, mushrooms, &c. Then mix 
some brown thickening with the veal 
gravy, but do not make it too thick, as 
the fat could not be got out of the sauce ; 
and a sauce with fat has neither a pleas- 
ing appearance nor a good flavor. Let it 
boil for an hour on the corner of the 
stove ; skim off the fat, and strain it 
through a tammy, &.c. 

403.— SAUCE TOURN:feE.* 

Take some white thickening, dilute it 

* Sauce tournOe is the sauce that the modern 
cooks call vcloute; but veloutii, properly so called 
will be found hereafter. 



SAUCES. 



241 



•Rrith some consomme or broth of fowl ; 
neither too thin nor too thick. A sauce 
when too thick will never admit of the 
fat being removed. Let it boil on the 
corner of the stove. Throw in a few 
mushrooms, with a bunch of parsley and 
green onions. Skim it well, and when 
there is no grease left, strain it through 
a tammy, to use when wanted. 

404— SAUCE A L' ALLEMANDE.— (German 
Sauce.) 

This is the same as the last sauce, with 
the addition of a thickening* of eggs well 
seasoned. This sauce is always used for 
the following sauces or ragouts, viz., 
blanquettes, or white fricassees, of all des- 
criptions, of veal, of fowl, of game, or pal- 
ates, ragout, loin of veal, with bechamel, 
&c., &c. 

405.— THE VELOUT:^. 

Take about the same quantity of stock- 
broth, and sauce tourn6e, and boil them 
down over a large fire. When this sauce 
is very thick, have some thick cream boil- 
ing and reduced, which pour into the 
sauce, and give it a couple of boilings ; 
season with a little salt, and strain through 
a tammy. If the ham t-hould be too salt, 
put in a little sugar. Observe, that this 
sauce is not to be so thick as the becha- 
mel. 

406.— VELOUTi:, OR B:feCHAMEL, A NEW 
METHOD. (Ude.) 

Put into a stewpan a knuckle of veal, 
some slices of ham, four or five pounds 
of beef, the legs and loin of a fowl ; all 
the trimmings of meat or game that you 
have, and moisten with boiled water suffi- 
cient to cover half the meat; make it 
sweat gently on a slow fire, till the meat 
is done through ; this you may ascertain 
by thrusting your knife into it ; if no 

* This thickening i^ what is called in French, lia- 
ison ; the yolks of two or four eggs. 



blood follows, it is time to moisten with 
boiling water suflBcient to cover all the 
meat. Then season with a bundle of 
parsley and green onions, a clove, half a 
bay-leaf, thyme, a little salt, and trim- 
mings of mushrooms. When the sauce 
has boiled long enough to let the knuckle 
be well done, skim off all the fat, strain 
it through a silken sieve, and boil down 
this consomme till it is nearly a glaze ; 
next take four spoonfuls of very fine flour, 
dilute it with three pints of very good 
cream, in a stewpan big enough to con- 
tain the cream, consomme, flour, &c. ; 
boil the flour and cream on a slow fire. 
When it boils, pour in the consomme, 
and continue to boil it on a slow fire if 
the sauce be thick, but on the contrary, 
if the sauce be thin, on a quick fire, in 
order to thicken it. Season with salt, 
but put no pepper. No white sauce ad- 
mits pepper, except when you introduce 
into it something chopped fine. Pepper 
appears like dust, and should therefore 
be avoided. This sauce should be very 
thick. Put it into a white basin through 
a tammy, and keep it in the larder out of 
the dust. 

This sauce is the foundation, if I may 
so speak, of all sorts of little sauces 
where white sauces are preferred. It 
should always be kept very thick, as you 
can thin it whenever you please, either 
with stock-broth or with cream. If too 
thin, it could not be used for so many 
purposes. 

407.— CAPER SAUCE A LA FRANQAISE. 

Take some capers, cut them small, put 
some essence of ham into a small sauce- 
pan with some pepper ; let it boil ; then 
put in the capers ; let them boil two or 
three times, and they are ready to serve. 

408.— CAPER SAUCE, TO IMITATE. 

Boil some parsley very slowly to let 
it become of a bad color ; then cut it up, 



242 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



but do not chop it fine ; put it into melt- 
ed butter, with a teaspoonful of salt, 
and a dessert-spoonful of vinegar; boil 
up, and then serve. 

409.-CAPER SAUCE FOll MEAT. 
Take some capers, chop half of them 
very fine, and put the rest in whole ; 
then chop some parsley with a little 
grated bread, and put to it some salt ; 
put them into butter melted very smooth, 
let them boil up, and then pour them 
into a sauce-boat. 

410.— TOMATO SAUCE FKANgAISE. 

Cut ten tomatoes into quarters and 
put them into a saucepan with four on- 
ions sliced, a little parsley, thyme, one 
clove, and a quarter of a pound of but- 
ter ; set the saucepan on the fire, stirring 
occasionally, for three-quarters of an 
hour ; strain the sauce through a horse- 
hair sieve, and serve with the directed 
articles. 

411— TOMATOES, GAENITUEE OF. 

Take thirty tomatoes, all as near of a 
size as possible, and of a good form, cut 
them in halves, press out the juice, seeds, 
and pieces by the side of the stalk, but 
do it with great care, lest the skins 
should be injured ; make a farce as fol- 
lows : — take a little ham, garlic, parsley, 
shalots, champignons shred, the yolks of 
two hard boiled eggs, crumb of bread, 
an anchovy, butter, salt, nutmeg, and all- 
spice ; give all these a boil, then pound 
them well, adding at times a little oil, 
strain it through a quenelle sieve ; fill 
the tomatoes with this farce, place them 
on a baking tin, cover them with grated 
bread crumbs and Parmesan cheese, 
moisten them with a little oil, and bake 
them in a hot oven ; serve the tomatoes 
as a garnish to a rump of beef, or any 
other joint you may think proper. 



412.— TOMATO SAUCE A L'lTALlENNE. 

Take five or six onions, slice, and put 
them into a saucepan with a little thyme, 
bay-leaf, twelve tomatoes, a bit of but- 
ter, salt, half a dozen allspice, a little 
Indian saffron, and a glass of stock ; set 
them on the fire, taking care to stir it 
frequently, as it is apt to stick ; when 
you perceive the sauce is thick strain it 
like a puree. 

KETCHUPS. 

413.— MUSHROOM KETCHUP. 

Take the full grown flaps of mush- 
rooms, wipe them clean, crnsh them with 
the hands, throw in a handful of salt with 
every peck of mushrooms, and let them 
stand all night ; then ' put them into 
stewpans, and set them in a quick oven 
for twelve hours ; strain them through a 
hair sieve and press out all the juice. 
To every gallon of liquor put of cloves, 
Jamaica and black pepper, and of ginger, 
one ounce each, and half a pound of 
common salt. Set it on a slow fire and 
let it boil until half the liquor is wasted, 
then put it into a clean china vessel, and 
when cold bottle it. 

Another mode of making mushroom 
ketchup, is to take a stewpan full of the 
large flap mushrooms that are not worm 
eaten, and the skins and fringe of those 
you have pickled ; throw a handful of 
salt among them, and set them by a slow 
fire. They will produce a great deal of 
liquor, which you must strain, and put 
to it four ounces of shalots, two cloves 
of garlic, an ounce of pepper, a table- 
spoonful of ginger, mace, and cloves ; 
boil the liquor slowly and skim it well. 
When cold, bottle and cork it close. In 
two months boil it again with a little 
additional spice, and a stick of horse- 
radish, — it will then keep a year ; which 
mushroom ketchup rjrely does, if not 
boiled a second time. 



KETCHUPS. 



243 



414— WALNUT KETCHUP. 

Take six half-sieves of green walnut- 
shells, put them into a tub, mix them up 
well with common salt, (from two to 
three pounds.) let them stand for six 
days, frequently beating and mashing 
them ; by this time the shells become 
soft and pulpy. Then by banking it up 
on one side of the tub, and at the same 
time by raising the tub on that side, the 
liquor will drain clear off to the other ; 
then take that liquor out ; the mashing 
and banking up may be repeated as often 
as liquor is found. The quantity will be 
about six quarts. AVhen done let it be 
simmered in an iron boiler as long as any 
scum arises ; then bruise a quarter of a 
pound of ginger, a quarter of a pound of 
allspice, two ounces of long pepper, two 
ounces of cloves, with the above ingredi- 
ents ; let it slowly boil for half an hour. 
When boiled, let an equal quantity of 
the spice go into each bottle ; when cork- 
ed, let the bottle be filled quite up ; cork 
them tight, seal them over, and put them 
into a cool and dry place for one year 
before they are used. 

415.— TOMATO KETCHUP. 

Take six pounds of tomatoes, sprinkle 
them with salt and let them remain for 
a day or two, then boil them until the 
skins will separate easil}^; pour them 
into a colander or coarse sieve, and press 
them through, leaving the skins behisd ; 
put into the liquor a pint of Chili vinegar, 
half a pint of wine, pepper, cloves, ginger 
and allspice ; boil them together until a 
third part has wasted — bottle them tight. 
The ketchup must be shaken before it is 
used. If it is boiled down to one-third, 
and the corks sealed, it will be much 
richer, and keep for years. 

416.— SAUCE FOR CHOPS AND STEAKS. 

Pound together in a mortar one ounce 
of black pepper, half an ounce of allspice, 
one ounce of salt, half an ounce of liorse- 



radish scraped, half an ounce of eschalots. 
Pour on this half a pint of mushroom ket- 
chup, and half a pint of walnut pickle. 
Infuse for a fortnight, and strain for use. 

417.— NASTUETIAN SAUCE 

Is eaten with boiled mutton. It is 
made with the green seeds of nasturtians, 
pickled simply in cold vinegar. Cut about 
six ounces of butter into small bits, and 
put them into a small saucepan. Mix 
with a wine-glass of water sufficient flour 
to make a thick batter, pour it on the 
butter, and hold the saucepan over hot 
coals, shaking it quickly round, till the 
butter is melted. Let it just boil up, and 
then take it from the fiie. Thicken it 
with the pickled nasturtians, and send it 
to table in a boat. 

418.— CRANBERRY SAUCE. 

This sauce is very simply made. A 
quart of cranberries is washed and stew- 
ed with sufficient water to cover them ; 
when they burst mix with them a pound 
of brown sugar, and stir them well. Be- 
fore you remove them from the fire, all 
the berries should have burst. When 
cold they will be jeUied, and if thrown into 
a form while warm, will turn out whole. 

419.— CELERY SAUCE. 

Wasb, and pare a bunch of celery, cut 
it into pieces, and boil it gently until it 
is tender ; add half a pint of cream, and 
a small piece of butter rolled in flour; 
now boil it gently. This is a good sauce 
for fowls of all kinds, either roasted or 
boiled. 



FAECES AlsT> STUFFrnGS. 



420. -PANADA. 



Put into a small stewpan one ounce of 
fresh butter, a table-spoonful of chopped 
mushrooms, a little chopped thyme and 



244 



THE PRACTICAIi HOrSEKEEPEE. 



parsley, half a blade of mace, pepper and 
salt ; stew the whole over the fire for a few 
minutes, then add to it a spoonful of white 
broth, the crumb of two French rolls 
previously soaked in milk and squeezed 
thoroughly dry ; stir over the fire until 
it no lon(;:er adheres to the stewpan ; 
take it off, add the yolks of two eggs, 
turn it out and leave it to cool ; it is then 
ready for use. 

421.-UDDER. 

Boil a calf's udder in broth or water ; 
when cold trim off the outside : pound 
and rub through a sieve. 

422. -QUENELLE. 

This is one of the most delicate prepa- 
rations of forcemeat that we have, and 
requires practice, care and attention to 
make it in perfection. It is called accord- 
ing to the meat of which it is composed ; 
quenelles of rabbit, chicken, fish, or game. 

Take the meat of two rabbits, pound it 
and rub it through a sieve ; take the same 
quantity of panada, and also of udder or 
very sweet fresh butter, pound these in- 
gredients for a quarter of an hour, add a 
table-spoonful of white sauce, two eggs, 
and two yolks ; take a small piece, roll 
it in a ball, and throw it in boiling water ; 
when done it should cut firm and consist- 
ent, yet light and delicate ; if more sea- 
soning is required it should be added be- 
fore it is taken out of the mortar. 

To mould them : have two table-spoons, 
fill one with the fixrce, shape with a knife, 
dipping it in boiling water to make it 
perfectly smooth ; dip the other spoon in 
hot water, with which take out the que- 
nelle and lay it in a buttered stewpan ; 
they should be egg-shaped, and perfectly 
smooth, and boiled for a quarter of an 
hour. 



423.— PANADA FOR FISH QUENELLE, OR 
FORCEMEAT. 

Put two-thirds of half a pint of water 



into a stewpan holding a quart, with 
nearly one ounce of butter ; when boiling, 
stir in a quarter of a pound of flour ; keep 
it moving over the fire until it forms a 
smooth and tough paste. Take it off the 
fire, add the yolks of three eggs. When 
cold, use it where directed. 

424.— FORCEMEAT. 

Take equal quantities of cold chicken, 
veal, and beef, shred very small, and 
mixed together ; season, at the same time, 
with a moderate quantity of pepper, salt, 
sweet herbs, and grated nutmeg — that is 
to say, if intended for white meat, or for 
any thing delicately flavored ; but if meant 
for a savory dish, add a little minced 
ham, and an atom of garlic or a shalot. 
Put the whole in a stone mortar, and 
pound it until quite fine, then make it 
into a paste with a raw egg, some butter, 
marrow, or fat of some kind. When 
used, it may either be rolled into round 
balls and fried for any made dish, or put 
into any joint of meat or poultry as stuf- 
fing ; and if kept in a cool place, and well 
seasoned, it will keep good for several 
days. 

Indeed, ly mixing with any potted meat 
or game an equal proportion of panada, 
which will always be lighter than bread- 
crumbs, the cook will have at once a very 
fine species of farce, to be employed in 
stuffing olives, fillets of fowl, &c. 

The "farce" is sometimes a delicious 
preparation of sausage-meat, and is served 
up alone ; but it enters into the composi- 
tion of numerous other dishes. 

425.— ANOTHER FORCEMEAT. 

Take a pound and a half of lean veal, 
pound it, and pass it through a sieve ; 
one pound of chopped beef suet, and six 
ounces of panada, pounded well together ; 
add the veal, season with pepper, salt, 
and a little nutmeg ; mix well ; then add 
the yolks of six eggs and the whites of 



FARCES AND STUFFINGS. 



245 



three ; when these are thoroughly mixed, 
whisk the other three whites of eggs to a 
very stiff froth, and add it to the force- 
meat ; when all is well mixed together, it 
is fit for use. 

426.— FAECE CUITE. 

Cut in small pieces some undressed 
fowl ; put them into a stewpan with a piece 
of butter, a little salt, pepper, and a little 
nutmeg ; shake them over the fire for ten 
minutes, drain, and let them cool. Put 
an equal portion of crumbs of bread in 
the same stewpan with some broth, and 
a little parsley chopped fine ; stir it with 
a wooden spoon till it becomes quite soft. 
Let it get cold, then pound the fowl until 
it will pass through a tamis ; pound the 
bread also, and put it through the sieve ; 
then put equal parts of the meat, butter, 
and bread together, and pound them with 
yolks of eggs sufficient to make it into a 
proper consistence, and keep it in a jar 
for use. 

427.— FAECE OF HAM AND VEAL. 

Mince equal quantities of ham and veal. 
a bunch of parsley, and some pepper ; 
put it on the fire with a little broth ; let 
it stew very gently, then pound it in a 
mortar; add to it an equal portion of 
bread soaked in milk and pounded ; pound 
the whole together with some butter, and 
mix it with the yolks of eggs. 

Bacon and veal which have been used 
in braising, or any thing highly impreg- 
nated with the flavor of herbs and onions, 
and very rich, may be employed after- 
wards as a farce, pounded and mixed 
with panada.* 

428.— STUFFING. 

Take equal quantities of beef suet and 

crumbs of bread; chop the suet very 

finely; chop together marjoram, thyme, 

and parsley, having as much parsley as 

* Farce for pies. 

16 



there is thyme and marjoram together ; 
add to them a salt-spoonfui of grated 
lemon peel, pepper, salt, and a little 
grated nutmeg; add eggs sufficient to 
bind it together. 

429.— SEASONING FOE STUFFING. 
One pound of salt dried and sifted, half 
an ounce of ground white pepper, two 
ounces of dried thyme, one ounce of dried 
marjoram, and one ounce of nutmeg. 
When this seasoning is used, parsley 
only is required to be chopped in suffi- 
cient quantity to make the stuffing green. 
The proportions are — half a pound of 
bread-crumbs, three eggs, a quarter of a 
pound of suet, half an ounce of season- 
ing, and peel of half a lemon grated. 

480.-FOECEMEAT. 
Shred a little ham or gammon, some 
cold veal or fowl, some beef suet, a small 
quantity of onion, some parsley, very 
little lemon-peel, salt, nutmeg, or pounded 
mace, and either white pepper or cayenne, 
and bread crumbs. Pound it in a mor- 
tar, and bind it with one or two eggs, 
beaten or strained. For forcemeat pat- 
ties, the mixture as above. 

481.— FOE HAEE, OE ANY THING IN IMI- 
TATION OF IT. 

The scalded liver, an anchovy, 'some 
fat bacon, a little suet, some parsley, 
thyme, knotted marjoram, a little shalot, 
and either onion or chives, all chopped 
fine ; crumbs of bread, pepper, and nut- 
meg, beat in a mortar with an egg. 

432.— FISH FOECEMEAT. 
Chop, and afterwards pound in a mor- 
tar, any kind of fish, adding an anchovy 
or two, or a tea-spoonful of the essence 
of anchovies, but do not allow the taste 
to prevail, and the yolk of a hard-boiled 
egg. If for maigre, pound butter with 
it ; but otheiwise, the fat of bacon pound- 
ed separately, and then mixed. Add a 



246 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



third portion of bread, prepared by soak- 
ing and pounding previously, and mix 
the whole up with raw eggs. For mack- 
erel, pike, haddock, and soles, take the 
Teal forcemeat, add a little anchovy es- 
sence, and use rather less herbs. 

483— OYSTER FORCEMEAT. 

Take a dozen oysters, strain them from 
the liquor, mince them, and add a quarter 
of a pound of finely grated bread-crumbs, 
one ounce and a half of butter broken 
very small, a dessert-spoonful of parsley, 
the grated rind of half a lemon ; season 
with a little mace, cayenne, and salt ; 
mix well ; then bind together with the 
yolk of an egg unbeaten, and a little of 
the oyster liquor. Care must be taken 
that the oyster flavor predominates. 

434— FORCEMEAT BALLS FOR SOUP 
MAIGRE. 

Forcemeat balls for maigre soups of 
any description should be always used to 
compensate for the savor of which they 
are deprived by the want of meat-broth ; 
and may be made of fish and sweet herbs, 
or only of herbs and crumbs of bread, in 
the following manner : — 

Pound in a mortar the soft parts of a 
crawfish, or a few shrimps, with an an- 
chovy, and the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, 
beaten up with crumbs of stale bread, 
pounded mace, cayenne pepper, salt, and 
a very little finely minced garlic. Then 
work it up into a paste with a raw egg to 
bind it into dough ; roll it out, cut it into 
small balls of the size of marbles, and 
fry them of a fine brown. 

Or: — Leave out the fish, and make 
them entirely of bread and savory chop- 
ped herbs — chervil, tarragon, marjoram, 
and thyme, with a little garlic and a 
shalot — and bind them up as above, with 
egg, butter, and crumbs of bread. 

Or : — Chop, and afterwards pound in a 
mortar, any kind of fish, adding an an- 
chovy or two, or a tea-spoonful of the es- 



sence of anchovies, but do not allow the 
taste to prevail, and the yolk of a hard- 
boiled egg : pound butter with it ; add a 
third portion of bread, prepared by soak- 
ing and pounding previously, and mix the 
whole up with raw eggs. 

Or : — Beat the flesh and soft parts of a 
middling-sized lobster, half an anchovy, 
a large piece of boiled celery, the yolk of 
a hard egg, a little cayenne, mace, salt, 
and white pepper, with two table-spoon- 
fuls of bread-crumbs, one ditto of oyster 
liquor, two ounces of butter warmed, and 
two eggs long beaten: make into balls, 
and fry of a fine brown in butter. 

Or : — Take a few shrimps, stripped of 
their shells, an anchovy, and the yolk of 
a hard-boiled egg, with bread-crumbs and 
seasoning as above, but adding some 
finely minced sweet herbs, ijnd omitting 
the oyster liquor: make all this into a 
paste with a little butter and a raw egg, 
made up in balls and fried as before. 

Or : — Instead of making the balls of 
fish and frying them, it is a more simple 
way to make them merely of bread- 
crumbs, hard-boiled egg, and sweet herbs 
seasoned with raw egg: drop the balls, 
one by one, into the boiling soup a few 
minutes before serving. Two eggs and a 
quarter of a pound of bread should make 
twelve or fifteen balls. 

Or : — Pound in a mortar, into a smooth 
substance, an anchovy, the yolk of a 
hard-boiled egg, a head of boiled celery, 
and some sweet herbs, with a couple of 
table-spoonfuls of biead-crumbs, seasoned 
with mace, a grating of nutmeg, cayenne, 
and salt ; then add two ounces of butter 
melted, and work it into a paste with a 
little flour and the yolk of a raw egg; 
make it into balls the size of marbles, 
and fry them quite brown. 

435.— FORCEMEAT FOR TURTLE.-(A8 at the 
Bush, Bristol.) 

One pound of fine fresh suet, one pound 



FAUCES A2TD SEASONING. 



247 



of ready-dressed veal or chicken chopped 
fine, crumbs of bread, a little shalot or 
onion, salt, white pepper, nutmeg, mace, 
pennyroyal, parsley, and lemon-thyme 
finely shred; beat as many fresh eggs, 
yolks and whites separately, as will make 
the above ingredients into a moist paste ; 
roll into small balls, and boil them in 
fresh lard, putting them in just as it boils 
up. When of a hght brown, take them 
out, and drain them before the fire. If 
the suet be moist or stale, a great many 
more eggs will be necessary. 

Balls made this way are remarkably 
light ; but being greasy, some people pre- 
fer them with less suet and eggs. They 
may therefore be made thus : — Chop up 
the materials with a little white pepper 
and salt, a sage leaf or two scalded and 
finely chopped, and the yolk of an egg ; 
make them into small cakes or fritters, 
and fry them. 

486.— EISSOLES .OF ALL KINDS. 
Chop some dressed chicken or veal 
very fine, fry a little chopped parsley, 
shalot, and mushrooms, very fine, and a 
little slice of tongue or ham or not, fry 
them in one ounce of butter a few min- 
utes, stirring it with a wooden spoon all 
the time ; dry the butter up with flour, 
then add a few small spoonfuls of good 
veal stock, a gill of cream, three spoon- 
fuls of bechamel sauce; now put in all 
your chopped meat, add a little sugar, a 
few drops of lemon juice, cayenne pepper 
and salt, and the yolks of three eggs, boil 
all well until quite stiff, take it out of 
your stewpan on to a dish to get cold ; 
when cold form them into a shape, either 
as pears or long balls, using bread-crumbs 
to form them ; put them to get cold ; in 
the mean time break two eggs in a basin, 
and then egg the forms once or twice, and 
bread-crumb them; have your fat quite 
hot to fry them, dish them on a "napkin 
with fried parsley. 



487.— EGGS FOR TUETLE. 
Beat three hard yolks of eggs in a mor- 
tar, and make into a paste with the yolk 
of a raw one ; roll it into small balls, and 
throw them into boiling water for two 
minutes to harden. Though formerly 
much used, they have latterly gone out 
of fashion. 



4SS.— PASSOVEE BALLS FOE SOUP. 
Chop an onion and half a pound of 
suet very finely; stew them together 
until the suet is melted, then pour it hot 
upon eight spoonfuls of biscuit-flour ; 
mix it well together ; add a little salt, a 
little grated nutmeg, lemon-peel, and gin- 
ger, and six eggs. Put the balls into the 
soup when it boils, and boil them for a 
quarter of an hour. The quantity of 
eggs and flour may appear disproportion- 
ed, but the flour employed is of a peculiar 
kind, used for the purpose in Jewish fami- 
lies. Nothing can exceed the excellence 
of the balls made after this receipt : they 
are applicable to any kind of soups. 



489.— FAECE OF VEAL OR FOWL. 
Cut up a fowl, or some veal, form the 
fillet into small dice, cut in the same 
quantity of good fat ham cut small, and 
a few trufiies, a little parsley, shalots, and 
a little of all kinds of fine sweet herbs, 
and a few chopped mushrooms, and one 
blade of mace, three cloves, put it all in a 
stewpan to draw down, with half a pound 
of butter for one hour; season it, add 
bread-crumbs to dry up the fat. then put 
it into your mortar and pound it very 
fine, then rub it through a wire sieve, re- 
turn it back into the mortar, and work in 
three or four eggs, leaving out one or two 
whites ; mix it welL up together, and put 
it into the larder until required. If you 
want any green, color some with prepared 
spinach juice; this will do for all cold 



248 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



pies, or game, or filling turkeys, or boned 
fowls, or galantine. 

You may make this farce with dressed 
meat, then you must not place it to draw 
down on the fire ; all the rest the same, 
only truffles, and mushrooms as well as 
the rest must be first dressed. 

440.— SEASONING FOE EOAST PORK, 
DUCKS, OE GEESE. 

Two-thirds onion, one-third green sage, 
chopped fine, bread crumbs equal to 
weight of both ; season with pepper and 
salt, and mix with a bit of butter and the 
yolk of an egg. 

441.— FOE A SUCKING PIG. 

A teacupful of grated bread, two ounces 
of butter seasoned with salt, pepper and 
nutmeg ; scald and chop fine two small 
onions and thirty leaves of young sage ; 
mix with a beaten egg, and sew it in the 
pig- 

442.— FOE A GOOSE. 

Scald and chop fine the liver, crumb 
twice its weight in bread, chop fine four 
small onions, half their weight of green 
sage, with half an ounce of butter, the 
yolk of an egg, and a table-spoonful of 
potato starch ; season highly with salt 
and pepper. 

448.— GAENISHES. 

Parsley is the most universal garnish 
to all kinds of cold meat, poultry, fish, 
butter, cheese, etc. Horseradish is the 
garnish for roast beef, and fish in general ; 
sometimes, for the latter, it is alternated 
with slices of lemon. Slices of lemon gar- 
nish boiled fowl, turkey, fish, roast veal, 
and calf's head. 

444.— FAECES AND STUFFINGS. 

A veal stuffing. Chop some suet fine, 
a little parsley, a small piece of shalot, 
rub through a dry sieve a small quantity 
of basil, knotted marjoram, thyme, add 



these to your suet, a grating of half a 
lemon, a few grains of nutmeg, a few 
bread-crumbs, and one or two eggs, mix 
all well up together, season with pepper 
and salt. 

If for game, scrape the raw livers into 
the stuffing, prepared as above, only in, 
addition pound it all fine. 

445.— FOECEMEAT INGEEDIENTS. 
Forcemeat should be made to cut with 
a knife, but not dry or heavy, no one 
flavor should predominate ; according to 
what it is wanted for, a choice may be made 
from the following list ; be careful to use 
the least of those articles that are most 
pungent; cold fowl, or veal, or ham, 
scraped fat bacon, beef suet, crumbs of 
bread, parsley, white pepper, salt, nut- 
meg, yolks and whites of eggs beaten to 
bind the mixture. Any of the following 
articles may be used to alter the taste ; 
oysters, anchovies, tarragon, savory, 
pennyroyal, marjoram, thyme, basil, 
yolks of hard eggs, ca3^enne, garlic, sha- 
lots, endives, Jamaica pepper in powder, 
or two or three cloves. 

446.— FOECEMEATS, ETC. 
Cold fowl, veal, or mutton. 
Scraped ham, or gammon. 
Fat bacon, or fat ham. 
Beef suet. 
Veal suet. 
Butter. 
Marrow. 

Soaked bread, and crumbs of bread. 
Parsley and white pepper. 
Salt and nutmeg. 
Cold soles. 
Oysters. 
Anchovies. 
Lobster, tarragon. 
Savoy, pennyroyal. 
Knotted marjoram. 
Thyme and lemon thyme. 
Basil and sage. 
Lemon peel. 



Yolks of hard eggs. 

Whites and yolks of eggs. 

Mace and cloves. 

Cayenne and garlic. 

Shalot and onion. 

Chives and chervil. 

Ground pepper and two or three cloves. 

44T.— BEOWN COLOEING FOB MADE 
DISHES. 

Take four ounces of sugar, beat it fine, 
put it into an iron fryingpan or earthen 
pipkin, set it over a clear fire, and when 
the sugar is melted it will be frothy ; put 
it higher from the fire until it is a fine 
brown, keep it stirring all the time ; fill 
the pan up with red wine, take care that 
it does not boil over, add a little salt and 
lemon, put a little cloves and mace, a 
shalot or two, boil it gently for ten 
minutes, pour it in a basin till it is cold, 
then bottle it for use. 



BEEF. 



Beef is dressed in various ways all 
the year round; but, for roasting, the 
best season is from November to the 
end of March. For joints, the only 
really good roasting pieces are-the sir- 
loin and the long ribs ; the short ribs, 
which are cut near the neck, never roast 
well, and should not be used for this 
purpose ; the middle ribs are the best. 
The under part, or fillet, of the sirloin, 
if cut out, may be made into a delicious 
stew ; or, if cut crosswise into steaks, 
they will be found more tender than 
those of the rump. 

Beef requires to be hung a long time, 
in order to insure its being tender. 
When however the weather is not favor- 
able for keeping, it will be much improv- 
ed by being laid for a few hours, previ- 
ous to roasting, in a marinade of this 



kind — three parts water to one of vine- 
gar, some salt, with a few peppercorns. 
Each joint must be carefully examined 
before it is spitted, and any portions that 
may have been injured cut away. 

The round is, in large families, one of 
the most profitable parts : it is usually 
boiled, and, like most of the boiling parts 
of beef, is generally sold at less than the 
roasting joints. 

The brisket is also less in price than 
the roasting parts ; it is not so economi- 
cal a part as the round, having more 
bone to be weighed with it, and more fat. 
Where there are children, very fat joints 
are not desirable, being often disagreea- 
ble to them, and sometimes prejudicial, 
especially if they have a dislike to it. 
This joint also requires more cooking 
than many others ; that is to say, it re- 
quires a double allowance of time to be 
given for boiling it : it will, when served, 
be hard and scarcely digestible if no 
more time be allowed to boil it than that 
which is suflBcient for other joints and 
meats. When stewed it is excellent ; 
and when cooked fresh, («'. e, unsalted,) 
an excellent stock for soup may be ex- 
tracted from it, and yet the meat will 
serve as well for dinner. 

The edgebone, or aitchbone, is not con- 
sidered to be a very economical joint, 
the bone being large in proportion to the 
meat ; but the greater part of it, at least, 
is as good as that of any prime part. 

The rump is the part of which the 
butcher makes profit, by selling it in the 
form of steaks. In the country, as there 
is not an equal demand for steaks, the 
whole of it may be purchased as a joint, 
and at the price of other prime parts. 
It may be turned to good account in pro- 
ducing many excellent dishes. If salt- 
ed, it is simply boiled ; if used unsalted, 
it is usually stewed. 

The veiny piece is sold at a low price 
per pound ; but if hung for a day or two, 
it is very good and very profitable. 



250 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



Where there are a number of servants 
and children to have an early dinner, 
this part of beef will be found desira- 
ble. 

From the leg and shin excellent stock 
for soup may be drawn ; and if not re- 
duced too much, the meat taken from 
the bones may be served as a stew with 
vegetables ; or it may be seasoned, 
pounded with butter, and potted ; or 
chopped very fine, and seasoned with 
herbs, and bound together by egg and 
bread-crumbs ; it may be fried in balls, 
or in the form of large eggs, and served 
with a gravy made with a few spoonfuls 
of the soup. 

Of half an ox-cheek excellent soup 
may be made : the meat, when taken 
from the bones, may be served as a stew. 

When one or two ribs are purchased 
by a small family, it is a good plan to 
have the bones taken out, and the meat 
rolled round in the shape of a fillet ; a 
considerable saving is efiected by this 
jilan, as, when not so prepared, the thin 
part of the extremity of the bone is fre- 
quently wasted. The bone cut out when 
the meat is raw will assist in making 
soap, and is much preferable to a cold 
beef-bone. They are sometimes cut off 
short, and salted or stewed, but rolled is 
the better plan; and in this manner a 
single rib ca^ be skewered into a hand- 
som3 fillet; the fat and lean being mar- 
bled, and the appearance of the whole 
improved. 

448.— TO COLLAR RIBS OF BEEP. 

Take two or three ribs of beef; cut it 
from the bones; rub it well with salt, 
brown sugar, and saltpetre ; let it remain 
a fortnight, turning it every day ; then 
season it with pepper, mace, cloves, all- 
spice, and a clove of garlic chopped very 
fine ; cover it well with parsley, thyme, 
and sweet marjoram ; roll it up very 
tight, and bind it round with tape ; put 
it into a pot with some water, cover it 



close up, and send it to the oven to be 
baked very slowly three or four hours ; 
then take it out, and press it between 
two boards with weights. This is an 
excellent dish for luncheon or break- 
fast. 

449.— A MARINADE TO BASTE ROAST 

MEATS. 

Chop up some fat bacon with a clove 
of garlic and a sprig of parsley ; add salt, 
pepper, a spoonful of vinegar, and four 
spoonfuls of oil ; beat it up well, and 
baste the meat with it. 

450.— SIRLOIN OP BEEF ROASTED. 

Break the upper part of the chine 
bones, cut them out, and cut through 
the strong gristle on the top about an 
inch apart, and skewer it in its place, 
which will prevent its drawing up or 
looking unsightly. Run the spit just 
under the bark at the thin end, and 
bring it out between the joints. By 
spitting it thus you avoid showing where 
the spit has gone through. Cover the 
fat with a sheet of buttered paper, and 
roast gently for three or four hours, ac- 
cording to the size of the joint. The 
under part is sometimes stufied with 
forcemeat, in the following manner : — 

Carefully lift up the fat from the in- 
side of the sirloin with a sharp knife ; 
take out all the meat close to the bone, 
and mince it small ; take one-half pound 
of suet, and chop it fine ; mix with it some 
grated bread-crumbs, a little lemon-peel, 
thyme, eschalot minced verj^ fine ; mix 
all together with a glass of port wine ; 
put it back again into the same place, 
and cover it with ihe skin and fiit; 
skewer it down neatly with small wooden 
skewers, and cover it with paper. The 
meat should be spitted before you take 
out the inside ; and when done do not 
take ofi" the paper until the joint is put 
into the dish : then serve it up garnished 
with scraped horseradish. 



BEEF. 



251 



The method of taking the meat from 
the bone, and rolling it so as to have the 
forcemeat in the middle, is easier, but 
adds its flavor to the whole joint ; while 
this way keeps the upper and the under 
part separate. 

451.— TO DEESS THE INSIDE OF A 8IEL0IN. 

Cut it out in one piece, if not used at 
table ; stew it with good broth or gravy, 
a little spice, and a table-spoonful of 
walnut ketchup. Serve with chopped 
pickles. 

452.— TO DEESS THE INSIDE OF A COLD 
SIELOm. 

Cut out all the meat, and a little fat, 
into pieces as thick as your finger, and 
four inches long ; dredge them with flour, 
and fry in butter of a nice brown : drain 
the butter from the meat, and toss it up 
in a rich gravy, seasoned with pepper, 
salt, anchovy, and shalot. Do not let it 
boil on any account. Before you serve, 
add two spoonfuls of vinegar and a glass 
of port wine. Garnish with crimped 
parsley. 

Or : — Cut the meat in slices about 
four inches long, and one-half an inch 
thick, the fat with the lean ; season them 
with pepper and salt, and fry them in 
good fresh butter ; have ready some 
good brown gravy, and stew them gently 
for half an hour ; add a little mush- 
room ketchup, and a table-spoonful of 
eschalot vinegar, with a wine glass of 
port, and just before serving put in a 
small piece of butter rolled in flour. 
Serve hot in a covered dish. This part 
is called the "fillet," and, when raw, 
may be either stewed whole or in the 
above manner. 

453.-ANOTHEE WAY. 

Cut the inside of the sirloin into pieces, 
dredge it with flour, put it into a frying- 
pan in which some butter is boiling; 



when it is browned, put it into a stew- 
pan with some brown gravy, highly sea- 
soned, squeeze in half a lemon, and 
serve. 

454.— ANOTHER WAT. 

Cut it in strips, as for coUops, flatten 
it, flour, and fry in butter ; lay in the 
centre of a hot dish a mound of spinach, 
with poached eggs on the top : lay the 
beef round the spinach. 

455.— FILLET OF BEEF, E0A8TED. 

If unaccustomed to the use of the 
knife, the butcher's aid may be obtained 
to cut the fillet, which "comes from the 
inside of the sirloin ; it may be larded 
or roasted plain ; for high dinners it is 
larded ; baste with fresh butter. It 
must be a large fillet which takes longer 
than an hour and twenty minutes ; serve 
with tomato sauce, garnish with horse- 
radish, unless served with currant jelly, 
then serve as with venison or hare, on 
warmed dishes and plates. 

456.— FILLET OF BEEP. 

To dress the inside of a Sirloin of Beef 
to taste like Hare. Take the inside of 
a large sirloin that has hung until ten- 
der ; soak it twenty-four hours in a few 
glasses of port wine and vinegar. Have 
ready a good stuffing as for hare ; do 
not spread, but put it into the middle 
of the beef, and roll it up tight. Roast 
it on a hanging spit, and baste it with 
a glass of the wine and vinegar, mixed 
with a teaspoonful of Jamaica pepper, 
and a clove or two, in the finest powder, 
until it is all dried up ; then baste with 
butter. Serve with a rich gravy in the 
dish, and currant-jelly sauce in a tureen. 

457.— EUMP OF BEEF. 

If of a well-fed ox, and hung til! ten- 
der, this is one of the most juicy and best 
flavored of all the joints of beef, but is 



252 



THE PRACTICAL H0U8EKEEPEK. 



more frequently stewed than roasted. It 
is generally sold in the country undivided 
from the aitch-bone ; or cut across, and 
not lengthwise, whicli makes it too large 
for one dressing, and neither fit for boil- 
ing nor roasting. 

At family dinners, a Yorkshire pudding 
is a usual accompaniment, but now sel- 
dom served at genteel tables. 

468.— TO STEW BEEF. 

It should be put down in a pot with 
just sufficient cold water to cover the 
meat, and closely covered After boiling 
three or four hours, according to the size 
of the piece, cut in small pieces, not larger 
than dice, two or three carrots and heads 
of celery, with a little sweet herbs, and 
put them into the pot along with pepper- 
corns, mace, and a couple of large onions 
stuck full of cloves, and let it then sim- 
mer by the side of the fire for two or 
three hours, taking care to skim off' any 
grease that may appear on the top. 

By this time the meat will probably be 
tender enough ; when take out the whole 
onions, mince them, and fry them in but- 
ter, to be mixed in the gravy made by the 
meat, which season with salt and cayenne, 
or Chili-vinegar, to which add some mush- 
room or walnut ketchup. Thicken the 
gravy with a little flour, and brown it, 
if necessary, with a spoonful of sugar 
burnt soft ; which, besides imparting its 
color, adds an agreeable flavor. Such is 
the most simple mode ; but the sauce 
may be much improved by a glass or two 
of port wine and a spoonful of curiy pow- 




Stewed Beef. 

der ; if the odor of garlic be not objected 



to, a clove boiled in the stew will be found 
to give it a fine flavor. Garnish with 
vegetables. 

A small piece of beef — say of four 
pounds — will take the time mentioned ; 
but the large Joints will require full 
double that time ; and should be put to 
stew overnight, adding the vegetables in 
the mornin";. 



459.— EUINIP OF BEEF STEW. 

Half roast it ; then put it into a pot 
with three pints of water, a pound of 
sliced bacon, a bunch of sweet herbs, two 
wine-glasses of vinegar, and a bottle of 
cider or small wine ; stick cloves into a 
couple of large onions, add a few sage- 
leaves, and cover the beef closely, adding 
more water should there not be sufficient 
gravy from the meat. Let it simmer for 
three hours ; then strain the gravy. Boil 
or bake some button onions, and lay 
them round the beef; cover it also with 
forcemeat balls, fried ornaments of paste, 
and mushrooms, if in season ; add to the 
gravy a glass of port wine, a spoonful of 
soy and Oude sauce ; boil dawn a part to 
a glaze, and put it on the beef: thicken 
the remainder if necessary, and pour it 
round, garnishing the dish with pickles. 

Or: — Season it high with cayenne, 
salt, allspice, cloves, and a blade of mace, 
all in fine powder. Biu-l it up tight, and 
lay it into a pot that will just hold it : 
resting it on two or three twigs, to pre- 
vent the meat from sticking. Fry three 
large onions sliced, and put them to it, 
with carrots, turnips, a shalot, a blade of 
mace, and some celery. Cover the meat 
with good beef-broth, and simmer it as 
gently as possible for several hours until 
quite tender. Clear off the fiit ; and add 
to the gravy half a pint of port wine, & 
small glass of Chili vinegar, and a large 
spoonful of ketchup; simmer half an 
hour, and serve in a deep dish. The 
herbs to be used should be burnet, tarra- 



BEEF. 



253 



gon, parsley, thyme, basil, marjoram, and 
all or any of the most savory sort. 

Or : — Prepare the beef as directed in the 
foregoing receipts, and glaze it twice ; 
stew some white haricot beans in good 
brown gravy, with an onion sliced, a car- 
rot, some parsley, and a bunch of sweet 
herbs, a clove of garlic, a bay -leaf, and a 
slice of lean ham ; let all simmer gently 
together till the beans are sufficiently 
tender ; then separate them from the other 
vegetables, and put them in a sieve to 
drain ; pass the sauce and vegetables 
through a tammy, add a table-spoonful 
of vinegar, and if not thick enough, a 
bit of butter rolled in flour; put in the 
haricot beans, make all boiling-hot, and 
pour the sauce into the dish round the 
beef. 

460.— BRISKET OF BEEF STEWED. 

Stew it in sufficient water to cover the 
meat ; when quite tender, take out the 
bones, and skim off the fat ; add to the 
gravy, when strained, a glass of wine and 
a little spice tied up in a muslin bag. 
Have ready either muishrooms, truffles, 
or vegetables boiled, and cut into shapes. 
Lay them on and round the beef ; reduce 
part of the gravy to a glaze ; lay it on 
the top, and pour the remainder into the 
dish. 

It is a good piece to be stewed, as it 
may be cut from the bone, and of any 
size. 

461.— LEG OF BEEF STEWED. 

Salt six pounds of the half-leg, or stift" 
marrow-bone of beef for three or four 
days. Make holes in it about one and a 
half inches deep, and press in, very hard, 
forcemeat made in the following manntr : 
one and a half pounds of suet sliced very 
fine ; pepper, salt, and a few cloves, some 
winter savory, and sweet marjoram, mix- 
ed well together. The beef must be 
baked in a deep pan, with water reaching 
about three-quarters of the way up, and 
forcemeat spread over the top, which, 



when the meat is baked, is taken off, cut 
into shapes, and laid round the dish. 

462.— BOUILLON 

Is the common soiip of France, and is 
in use in almost every French family. 
Put into an earthen stock-pot in the pro- 
portion of one pound of beef to one quart 
of cold water. Place it on the side of the 
fire, and let it become slowly hot. By so 
doing the fibre of the meat is enlarged, 
the gelatine is dissolved, and the savor- 
ous parts of the meat are diffused through 
the broth. When the object is simply to 
make a good, pure-flavored beef broth, 
part of the shin or leg will answer the 
purpose, adding some vegetables, and let- 
ting it stew four or five hours ; but if the 
meat is to be eaten, the rump or leg-of- 
mutton piece should be used 

463.— BOUILLI. 

The rump of beef is best for this pur- 
pose, as the meat is to be served up in a 
separate dish, and will make a finely fla- 
vored sort of soup. Take as much of it 
as may be thought necessary ; but for a 
small party, say from four to six pounds, 
along with two or three large roasted 
onions, in one of which some cloves may 
be stuck, and a moderate quantity of 
whole pepper, with a bunch of sweet 
herbs ; to which an anchovy may be add- 
ed ; put it in a stewpan. covered with 
rather more than a pint of cold water to 
every pound of meat ; and let it simmer 
by the side of the fire for four or five 
hour.<, or until it has become quite ten- 
der ; then take out the herbs and onions, 
and add carrots, turnips, and celery, 
either cut into small squares or sliced, and 
let the whole boil until sufficiently stew- 
ed, and ready for the table. 

The soup should then be strained off 
and served separately, leaving only so 
much as may be necessary for making 
sauce for the vegetables. The sauce 
should be a little thickened, and seasoned 



254 



THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



to the palate ; if a clove of garlic, or a 
teaspoonful of garlic and Chili vinegar, be 
added, it will improve the flavor. In 
Ireland it is not uncommon to send up 
the bouilli smothered in onion sauce, the 
other vegetables being either not used, or 
brought up in the soup ; in France it is 
very usual to dress cabbage and sausages 
as an accompaniment to the bouilli , in 
England, it is more customary to serve it 
up with the vegetable-sauce as above- 
stated. Cucumbers cut into dice and 
stewed, with a spoonful of Chili vinegar 
added, are .^erved at most of the German 
hotels. The meat if gently stewed until 
quite tender, without being boiled to rags, 
will be found excellent, and the whole an 
admirable dish. 

. 464— TO RESTORE TAINTED MEAT. 

Pour a few drops of hydrochloric acid 
in water till of a slight sour taste, and 
immerse the tainted meat in it for an 
hour or so, and it will become quite sweet 



465.— BROILING. 

The cook must prepare her fire in due 
time. When ready, it should be clear 
and bright, so clear from black coal and 
smoke that the chop or steak may come 
from the gridiron without blemish or 
taint of sulphur or smoke. The best 
fuel for a broil is composed of charcoal 
and coke, as little smoke is emitted from 
either, even on commencing the fire, and 
when w^l ignited, it is entirely free from 
it ; coke, added to a brisk coal fire, also 
burns bright, and is well suited for the 
operation, though with care a proper fire 
may be made of good hard coal. There is 
this amongst other disadvantages, in cut- 
ting too thick a steak, the outside is 
likely to be scorched to homy hardness 
before the interior is half cooked ; hence, 
to say nothing of the misery of those 
who have not large mouths, the disap- 



pointed epicure must either wait until it 
is put again on the gridiron, or instead 
of eating it rare, be constrained to eat it 
raw. No gridiron should be used but 
those with fluted bars, which, forming 
channels, the greater part of the fat 
which otherwise falls into the fire, and 
scorches the steak, is drawn off into a 
gutter at the bottom ; the gridiron 
should be thoroughly heated, and the 
bars rubbed with beef or mutton suet 
previously to putting on the steak, to 
prevent its being marked by, or adhering 
to, the bars. A close eye should be 
kept on the steak to watch the moment 
for turning it. which is repeatedl}^ done 
during the process; broiling tongs of 
convenient size should be used, with 
which, by a httle practice, the steak may 
be turned with ease and despatch ; the 
cook must have her dish thoroughly 
heated to receive the broil when done, 
and the cover hot to place on it instant- 
ly. Even when she has accomplished 
her task, if the servant who is to take it 
to table loiters on the way, the steak 
will have lost its zest. A steak or chop 
should be briskly cooked, speedily con- 
veyed to table, and served with despatch. 



466.— BEEF STEAKS, BROILED. 

Be particular that the fire is clear ; it 
is of no use to attempt to broil a steak 
over a dull, smoky, or flaring fire ; see 
that the gridiron is clean, and the bars 
rubbed with suet preparatory to laying 
on the steak ; when they are browned 
turn them; do not be afraid of doing 
this often, as this is the best plan to pre- 
serve the gravy. When they are done 
rub them over with a piece of fresh but- 
ter, pepper and salt them, spiinkle the 
shalot or onion cut very small, and send 
them to table with oyster sauce, a dish 
of nicely cooked greens, and well boiled 
potatoes : they are frequently and pleas- 



antly garnished with scraped horse- 
radish. 

467.— THE ENGLISH DISH OF BEEF STEAK 
AND ONIONS. 

Pound the steak, season, and fry it in a 
saute or frying-pan ; then dredge flour 
over it, and add, by degrees, a cup of 
boiling water with more seasoning. 
Di'ain the onions, which must have been 
boiled, cut them up. and put them into 
the pan, having taken out the steak ; 
add a lump of butter and a l.ttle more 
flour ; stir them to prevent scorching ; 
and when the onions are well browned, 
put in the steak, and place the whole over 
the fire till heated thoroughly. In serv- 
ing, heap the onions upon the steak. 

468.— BEEF STEAKS ROLLED AND 
ROASTED. 

Cut handsome steaks from the rump, 
and if not suflBciently tender let them be 
well beaten ; make a rich stuffing of equal 
parts of ham and veal well peppered ; 
stew it for a short time, and pound it in 
a mortar with breaa steeped in milk, a 
lump of butter, and the yolk of two or 
three eggs ; spread this forcemeat over 
the steaks, roll them up and tie them 
tightly, roast them before a clear fire. 
They will occupy an hour and twenty 
minutes to an hour and a half roasting ; 
baste well with butter while roasting, 
and serve with brown gravj-. 

469.— STEWED BEEF STEAKS. 

Stew the steaks in three parts of a 
pint of water, to which has been added a 
bunch of sweet herbs, two blades of 
mace, an onion stuck with cloves — say 
three, an anchovy, and a lump of butter 
soaked in flour ; pour over a glass of 
sherry or Madeira. Stew with the pan 
covered down, until the steaks are ten- 
der, but not too much so ; then place 
them in a fryiugpan with enough of fresh 



butter, hissing hot, to cover them, fry 
them brown, pour off" the fat, and in its 
place pour into the pan the gravy in 
which the steaks were stewed ; when 
the gravy is thoroughly heated, and is of 
a rich consistency, j^lace the steaks in a 
hot dish, pour the sauce over them. 
The steaks should be large, the finest 
from the rump, and have a due propor- 
tion of fat with them. 

470.— BEEF STEAKS, A LA FEANQAISE. 

Take a fine steak and dip it into cold 
spring water, let it drain a few minutes, 
lay it in a dish and pour over it sufficient 
clarified butter hot, and cover it ; let it 
remain twelve hour.?, then remove the 
butter, and roll the steak with the roll- 
ing-pin a dozen times rather hardly, let 
it lie in front of a clear fire ten minutes, 
turning it once or twice, put it into a 
fryingpan, with Water half an inch in 
depth, and let it fry until it browns. 

Mince some parsley very fine, chop an 
eschalot as fine as can be, and season 
them with cayenne, salt, and a little 
white pepper ; work them with a lump 
of fresh butter, and when the steak is 
brown take it from the pan, rub it well 
with the mixture on both sides, and re- 
turn it to the pan until done enough ; dish 
it, thicken the gravy in the pan with a 
little butter rolled in flour if it requires 
it, and pour it over the steak and serve. 

471.- BEEF STEAKS A LA PAEISIENNE. 

Cut thin steaks from the finest and 
tenderest part of the rump, sprinkle 
pounded salt, a little cayenne and white 
pepper combined, over them ; lay them in 
a pan with an ounce of fresh butter, cut 
in pieces ; work half a teaspoonful of 
flour with three ounces of fresh butter, 
as much parsley minced exceedingly fine 
as would lie on a shilling, roll it, and cut 
in large dice, lay it in a dish, squeeze the 
half of a lemon over the butter, and 



256 



THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



when the steaks are done lay them upon 
the butter ; have ready a quantity of 
raw peeled potatoes, cut in thin slices, 
and washed in milk and water ready, fry 
them in the butter and gravy left by the 
steak, and lay them round the dish ; they 
will be done when they are a rich 
brown. 

472.— PALATES OF BEEF. 

Four white skinned palates ; if for a 
white dish lay them all night in salt and 
water, wash them well, put them on to 
scald, take off all the skin, then put them 
into your stock pot, let them boil several 
hours until so tender that you can pass 
a straw through them, then take them 
up and lay them flat on a large dish 
separate, placing another on the top of 
them with a weight to keep them flat : 
if to be dressed whole turn the sides 
smooth, spread each with quenelle or 
forcemeat, roll them up and tie them ; 
it will take six for this dish; steam 
them for a quarter of an hour, take them 
up and glaze them well, and take off the 
string ; if for a turban or tim bales, cut 
them out with a plain round cutter, 
either using two small moulds or one 
large ; proceed with those two as you 
would for the timbale of macaroni, leav- 
ing out the cheese and any other layer ; 
introduce slices of truffles all round, and 
then palates, then mushrooms until your 
mould is full, put a layer of quenelle on 
the top, paper it on the top with but- 
tered paper, steam as other timbales; 
haricot roots, truffles, mushrooms, to- 
mato, piquant, any of these will do for 
sauces, or I talienne ; glaze the tops when 
turned out. 



478.— BEEF PALATES. 

Take as many as required, let them 
sinmicr until they peel, put them in a 
rich gravy, stew mitil very tender, sea- 



son with cayenne, salt, two teaspoonfuls 
of mushroom ketchup — serve. 



474.— BEEF COLLOPS. 

Any part of beef which is tender will 
serve to make coUops ; cut the beef into 
pieces about three inches long, beat them 
flat, dredge them with flour, fry them in 
butter, lay them in a stewpan, cover 
them with brown gravy, put in half an 
eschalot minced fine, a lump of butter 
rolled in flour to thicken, with a little 
pepper and salt ; stew without suffering 
it to boil ; serve with pickles, or squeeze 
in half a lemon, according to taste ; 
serve in a tureen, and serve hot. 

475.— A BEEF STEW. 

Take two or three pounds of the rump 
of beef, cut away all the fat and skin, and 
cut it into pieces about two or three 
inches square, put it into a stewpan, and 
pour upon it a quart of broth, let it boil, 
sprinkle in a little salt and pepper to 
taste ; when it has boiled very gently, or 
simmered two hours, shred finely a large 
lemon, add it to the gravy, and in twenty 
minutes pour in a flavoring composed of 
two table-spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce, 
the juice of the lemon the rind of which 
has been sliced into the gravy, a spoonful 
of flour, and a little ketchup, add at 
pleasure two glasses of Madeira, or one 
of sherry, or port, a quarter of an hour 
after the flavoring, and serve. 

476.— BEEP HASHED. 

Take the bones of the joint to be hash- 
ed, and break them small, stew them in 
very little water, with a buncii of sweet 
herbs, and a few onions ; roll a lump of 
butter in flour, brown it in a stewpan, 
pour the gravy to it, and add the meat to 
be hashed, cut two small onions in thin 
slices, a carrot also, and a little parsley 
shred finely ; stew gently until the meat 
is hot through, and serve. 



477.— HASH BALLS. 

Mince cold roast meat very fine, mix 
it with cold boiled potatoes chopped; 
season with pepper and salt, and a little 
of the gravy ; make it into cakes as large 
as a biscuit, cover each with beaten egg 
and then with bread crumbs, and fry the 
cakes a light bro^vn in butter, lard, or 
dripping. 

478.— BEEF TONGUE— TO CUEE. 

Throw a handful of salt over the 
tong-ue, seeing that it is sprinkled on both 
sides, let it remain to drain until the fol- 
lowing day, make a pickle of a table- 
spoonful of common salt, half that quan- 
tity of saltpetre, and the same quantity 
of coarse sugar as of salt ; rub this mix- 
ture well into the tongue, do so every 
day for a week ; it will then be found 
necessary to add more salt, a table-spoon- 
ful will suffice ; in four more days the 
tongue will be cured sufficiently. 

Some persons do not rub the pickle 
into the tongue, but let it absorb it, 
merely turning it daily ; this method will 
be found to occupy a month or five weeks 
before it will be cured. When the tongue 
is to be dried affix a paper to it with 
a date ; smoke over a wood fire four days 
xmless wrapped in paper, and then as 
many weeks will be required. 

479.— TO DEESS BEEF TONGUES. 
To dress them, boil the tongue tender, 
it will take five hours ; always dress 
them as they come out of the pickle, un- 
less they have been very long there, then 
they may be soaked three or four hours 
in cold water, or if they have been smok- 
ed, and hung long, they should be soften- 
ed by tying in water five or six hours. 
They should be brought to a boil gently, 
and then simmer until tender; when 
they have been on the fire about two 
hours, and the scum removed as it rises, 
throw in a bunch of sweet herbs of a 



tolerable size ; it will improve the flavor 
of the tongue. 

480.— A FAMILY STEW OP BEEF. 

Take any piece of beef good for stew- 
ing, cut it into small pieces, slice two or 
three large onions, and put them into the 
stewpan with two ounces of butter or 
good beef-dripping. When melted, dredge 
in some flour, add the meat also dredged 
with flour, and enough water to keep it 
from burning. When the gravy has 
drawn, fill up with boiling water, let it 
come to a boil gently, skim the pot well, 
then add a spoonful of mixed spices, and 
a bay-leaf or two ; set the pan by the 
side of the fire to stew slowly for a 
couple of hours. Eleven pounds of meat 
will take four hours. This dish may be 
thickened like Irish stew, with potatoes, 
or it may be served with the addition of 
chopped vegetables of all kinds, previ- 
ously fried. 

481.— TONGUE LARDED. 

This when well cooked is especially 
pleasant to some palates. Take a tongue 
which has been pickled, a small one 
is the best, cut off the root, and put it 
into a pan ; cover it with water, and let 
it boil five-and-twenty or thirty minutes. 
Take it out, and then dip it in scalding 
water to blanch, and remove the skin. 

Take a piece of fat bacon, cut it into 
strips for larding. Make a seasoning of 
pounded sweet herbs, eschalot, mace, and 
a little cayenne pepper mixed with white 
pepper and salt ; sprinkle the bacon 
strips with it, and leaving a line for divi- 
sion down the centre of the tongue. Lard 
it all over. Braise the tongue, and then 
glaze ; separate it in the space left, but 
leave it attached at either end, so that 
when laid open on the dish it is not en- 
tirely divided in two. Have ready some 
brown sauce, flavored with minced capers, 
sliced pickled gherkins, the juice of half 
a lemon, ana half a small tea-spoonful of 



258 



THE PKACnCAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



cayenne pepper. Pour it when ready 
into a dish ; lay the tongue upon it, and 
serve as hot as possible. 

482.— BEEF OLIVES. 
Cut some handsome steaks, flatten 
them -well with a roller, dredge them 
well with a small quantity of white pep- 
per and salt, have some forcemeat, made 
with the fat and lean of veal mixed to- 
gether, a small bit of lean ham or bacon, 
parsley, and sweet herbs, with a few 
bread crumbs, all beaten in a mortar, and 
mixed with an egg ; lay a little over each 
steak, and roll them up tightly, fastening 
with a skewer ; dip them in the yolk of 
an egg, then in crumbs of bVead, and fry 
them of a pale brown; rolling up each 
separate steak, and binding it together 
with thread ; dish them with brown sauce, 
in which put a glass of white wine, with 
some strong gravy, seasoned with cayenne. 

483.— BCEUF TEEMBLANT. 
Cut a handsome piece of beef from the 
rump, either a fillet or square ; hang it 
up for four days, then put it all night to 
soak in a pickle of salt and vinegar ; put 
it into a stewpan, and let it be covered 
with water; add a seasoning of whole 
pepper and salt, a bundle of sweet herbs, 
and an onion. Let it simmer very slowly 
as long as it will hang together, taking 
care to skim it well. Strain the gravy, 
and add to it carrots previously boiled, 
and cut into pieces an inch long ; add also 
a few capers and a mushroom, with a 
glass of wine and the juice of a lemon. 
"W hen the beef has been sufficiently 
stewed take it up, and set it for a short 
time in a Dutch oven, and glaze it, or 
brown it with a salamander. 

484.— SPICED BEEF. 

A joint from the round, rump, or flank, 
from ten to fourteen pounds, is the usual 
weight of the piece intended to be thus 
dressed. Make a mixture of the follow- 



ing ingredients, and let them be well 
amalgamated ; pound finely as much mace 
as will quite fill a teaspoon, grind a nut- 
meg to powder, and add it, also two spoon- 
fuls of cloves, one-fourth of that quantity 
of cayenne pepper, and half a pound of 
coarse brown sugar; rub the beef well 
with this mixture for three days, turning 
it each day once ; add three-quarters of a 
pound of salt, and then continue rubbing 
well each .day, for ten days more ; at the 
expiration of that time dip it into some 
cold clear spring water, twice or thrice, 
secure it into a handsome shape, put it 
into a stewpan with a quart of good beef 
broth, let it come to a boil, skim as the 
scum rises, and as soon as it boils put in 
three carrots cut in slices, a bundle of 
sweet herbs, a little parsley, and an onion ; 
stew gently four hours. 

If it is intended to serve this dish cold, 
let it remain until it is cool in the liquor 
in which it was boiled, but take the pre- 
caution to put the meat into a clean pan, 
and pour the liquor over it. 

485.— A PICKLE FOR BEEP. 

To one gallon of water put two pounds 
and a half of common salt, one ounce of 
saltpetre, half a pound of coarse sugar, 
boil it for a quarter of an hour, and be 
particular while boiling to remove every 
particle of scum while rising, that it may 
be as clear as possible, let it be cold when 
poured upon the beef. If it is desired to 
make the pickle last for a very long time, 
add a gallon of spring water to the above 
quantity, which should, if for keeping, be 
also spring water, add three ounces of 
saltpetre, two pounds of bay salt, and a 
pound and a half of coarse brown sugar. 
Whatever joints are put into this pickle, • 
they should be kept closely covered down. 
Prepare thus the beef for pickling, keep 
it as long as you can without taint, spread 
over it coarse sugar, and let it remain for 
two days to drain. Rub the beef thor- 
oughly with the pickle, and let it remain * 



in it eight, ten, twelve, or fourteen days, 
according to its size and quantity ; a con- 
siderable quantity of beef may be pickled 
together, indeed the closer it is packed 
the better, so that it is covered with the 
pickle and kept tightly down ; when they 
are taken out of the pickle, lay some sticks 
across the pan and let them drip into it, 
when as much has fallen from them as 
will, wipe them dry, and they may either 
be cooked at once or dried ; if the latter 
be determined upon, after having well 
dried them, smoke eight hours over burnt 
sawdust and damp straw, or sew them in 
a cloth and send them to the baker, and let 
them hang seven or eight days. Do not, 
as in the other receipt, boil the pickle 
before using the first time, but after it 
has been once used, and every succeeding 
time, observing that it must be kept 
skimmed, and each time of boiling add a 
quart of water and a couple of pounds of 
salt. This pickle will answer equally 
well for hams or tongues. 

4S6.— HTTNG BEEP 

Take twelve to fourteen pounds of the 
flank of beef, throw over it a handful of 
salt ; let it drain twenty-four hours. 
Make a brine of one pound of salt, one 
ounce of saltpetre ; let them be quite dry, 
and pound them to a fine powder before 
using, a quarter of a pound of bay salt 
and two ounces of coarse sugar. If it is 
intended to make the beef red, add three 
grains of cochineal ; rub the beef with 
this brine for a week, and then turn it ; 
let it remain two days, and then rub it 
again for seven or eight days ; then let 
it drain from the pickle. Send it to the 
baker's to be smoked. When wanted for 
dressing, put it into cold water more than 
enough to cover it, boil gradually until 
enough, and put it under a heavy weight 
while hot. It may be served with car- 
rots and greens, or, if for grating, choose 
a lean piece, put it in boiling water ; keep 



it boiling rapidly ; four pounds will take 
an hour. 

4ST.— BEEF HUNG. 

The best piece is the navel piece, it 
must be hung up in a cellar imtil it is a 
little damp, but not long enough to change, 
take it down and wash it well in brown 
sugar and water, dry it with a cloth, cut 
it in two or three pieces, take half a pound 
of brown sugar, two pounds of bay salt 
dried and pounded smal', six ounces of 
saltpetre dried and beat fine, rub it well 
into the beef, then rub common salt over 
it as much as will make it salt enough ; 
let it lie together ten days, changing the 
pieces from the bottom to the top ; hang 
it where it may have the warmth of the 
fire, but not too near ; when it is dres.sed 
boil it in hay, and water until tender; 
it will keep two or three months ; when 
mouldy dip it in water. 

48S.— DUTCH HONG BEEF. 

Rub a lean piece of beef— about twelve 
pounds — with molasses, and turn it fre- 
quently, in three days wipe it dry, salt it 
with a pound of salt and an ounce of salt- 
petre in fine powder, rub well in, turning 
every day for fourteen days, roll it as 
tightly as you can in a coarse cloth, lay 
a heavy weight upon it, hang it to dry in 
the smoke from wood, reversing it every 
day, boil in spring water, press it while 
hot and grate or rice it to fanc3^ 

489.— EUMP STEAK STEWED. 

Cut a steak about an inch thick with a 
good bit of fat, fry it over a brisk fire, 
place it in a stewpan with the gravy, a 
little good stock, a little port wine, and 
some chopped mushrooms, stew gently ; 
when tender put into it some good brown 
sauce, shake it gently about ; dish it, and 
put scraped or grated horseradish on the 
top ; if for oysters or mushrooms, see 
those sauces ; season with salt, cayenne 
pepper, and sugar. 



260 



THE PKACTICAIi HOUSEKEEPER. 



490.— EUMP STEAK PLAIN BROILED. 

Cut your steak not so thick as for the 
former; have ready a good clear fire, 
put your gridiron to get quite hot, then 
put on the steak at full length, frequently 
stirring it with your steak tongs, a few- 
minutes accoi'ding to taste will do it, 
place it on your dish, put a good shce of 
butter rubbed all over it, and now pepper 
and salt it. Horseradish on the top of 
it, and frequently sauces. 

491.— BAKED BEEP. 

A Sump of twenty to twenty-five 
pounds weight. — Take two ounces each 
of pepper and allspice; one ounce of 
pounded cloves, and the same quantity 
of mace; rub this all over the joint, 
which should be hung up for a fortnight 
or three weeks, according to the weather 
— taking care to keep it dry, and to occa- 
sionally renew the seasoning. When 
ready for baking, wash off the spice with 
port wane, and lard the rump throughout 
— not in the common mode used by poul- 
terers, but by inserting large lardoons in 
different parts of the meat. Then put a 
large quantity of suet, shred fine, both 
under and over it, and cover it with 
coarse flour and water paste, between 
which and the suet > ou may put a few 
bay-leaves or some sweet herbs. If eaten 
hot, the dough, bay-leaves, and suet must 
all be taken off; the joint basted, sprin- 
kled with a little salt and flour, over 




Self-Basting Dutch Oven. 

which a salamander should be passed ; 
and served up with strong gravy or brown 



sauce. If cold, leave on the dough till 
wanted. 

It should be baked in a moderately- 
heated oven, and will take, according to 
the size, from six to eight hours' bak- 
ing. 

A Hound of Beef may be dressed in 
the same manner ; but the bone should 
in that case be taken out, and the hole 
filled up with forcemeat. The flap should 
be filled in like manner, skewered, and 
tightly bound round with linen or strong 
tape, in which case the dough and the 
lai'ding may be omitted, though the latter 
will be found an improvement. It should 
be always left until cold. 

492.— BEEP BEAINS FRIED. 

Let your brains be properly marina- 
ded, then leave them to drain ; make a 
preparation with warm water, a little 
butter, and salt, some flour, and a spoon- 
ful of oil, and the whites of eggs whipped 
to snow, mix all together till like batter; 
dip 3'our brains into this battel*, and then 
fry them a nice brown color ; when fried 
let them drain on a dry cloth, garnish 
with fried parsley. 

493.— BEEP BRAINS 1 LA SAUCE 
PIQUANTE. 

Cook your brains in a marinade ; drain 
them, put them on a dish, and pour a 
sauce piquante all over them. 

494— BUBBLE AND SQUEAK. 

Sprinkle some slices of cold boiled beef 
with pepper ; fry them with a bit of but- 
ter of a light brown ; boil a cabbage , 
squeeze it quite dry and chop it small ; 
take the beef out of the frying-pan and 
lay the cabbage in it ; sprinkle a little 
salt and pepper over it ; keep the pan 
moving over the fire for a few minutes ; 
lay the cabbage in the middle of the dish 
and the beef around it. 



BEEF. 



261 



495.— BUBBLE AND SQUEAK 

Cut slices from a cold boiled round or 
rump of beef; let them be fried quickly 
until brown, and put them into a dish to 
be kept hot. Clean the pan from the fat ; 
put into it greens and carrots previously 
boiled and chopped, small, or, instead of 
these, large onions sliced thin and fried, 
though both the latter are sometimes 
omitted. Add a little butter, pepper, 
and salt ; make them very hot, and put 
them round the beef with a little gravy. 

Cold pork boiled is thought by some 
to be a better material for bubble and 
squeak than beef, which is sometimes 
hard. In either case the slices should be 
very thin, and lightly fried. 

496.— OX-TAILS. 

Cut the tails in pieces ; lay them in a 
stewpan, with butter and a large onion ; 
set them over a smart fire to make them 
brown ; peel and boil a couple of dozen 
of button onions in "about three pints of 
water, for fifteen or twenty minutes ; set 
them by and pour the liquor they were 
boiled in upon the tails, adding sufficient 
boiling water to cover them ; put in six 
ounces of carrots, and eight of turnips, 
cut into slices, or balls the size of nut- 
megs ; put in the carrots twenty minutes 
before the turnips. Be careful that they 
are not stewed too fast or too much. 
When they are tender, pass the gravy 
through a sieve ; skim off" the fat, and pay 
great attention in doing so, as the fat 
rises while the tails are stewing. Keep 
the meat and vegetables hot. Thicken 
the gravy by putting an ounce of butter 
into a stewpan ; when melted, stir in as 
much flour as will stiffen it. Pour the 
gravy in by degrees, stirring it till it boils ; 
strain it through a sieve into a stewpan, 
and let it simmer gently till the meat and 
vegetables are dished. Lay the tails 
round the dish, and the vegetables in the 
middle ; pour the gravy over ; minced 
17 



gherkins or capers may be added. Pour 
boiling water over the onions to warm 
them, and put them round the dish the 
last thing. 

Or :— Divide them at the joints, blanch, 
and parboil them ; put them into a stew- 
pan with just water or weak broth 
enough to cover them ; let them simmer 
over a gentle fire, and remove the scum 
carefully as it rises ; then put in an onion, 
a blade of mace, and a little pepper and 
salt ; put them on again to simmer, and 
when sufficiently done add a spoonful of 
essence of anchovy and some flour rolled 
in butter. This is an excellent and nour- 
ishing dish. 

497.— TEIPE. 

Tripe may be dressed in several ways, 
but whatever mode may be employed, it 
will always be found an improvement to 
soak it for a whole night in milk. Some 
say, seven or eight days in salt and wa- 
ter. If left in the milk until that gets 
sour, the acidity thus imparted to it will 
render it still better. 

Take two pounds of fresh tripe, cleaned 
and dressed by the tripe-dresser; cut 
away the coarsest fat, and boil it in equal 
parts of milk and water ; twenty minutes 
to half an hour will be long enough. Boil 
in the same water which boils the tripe, 
four large onions ; the onions should be 
put on the fire at least half an hour be- 
fore the tripe is put in the stewpan, and 
then made into a rich onion sauce, which 
serve with the tripe. 

Tripe is cleaned, dried, cut into pieces, 
and fried in batter, and served with melt- 
ed butter. 

Tripe is cut into slices ; three eggs are 
beaten up with minced parsley, sweet 
herbs, onions chopped exceedingly fine, 
parsley, and mushrooms. The tripe is 
dipped into this mixture, and fried in 
boiling lard. 

Tripe may be cut into coUops, covered 
with a mixture of parsley, onions, and 



262 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



mushrooms, minced exceedingly fine, and 
fried in clarified or fresh butter. Serve 
mushroom sauce with it. 

Tripe can be stewed in gravy in which 
put parsley, onions, and mushrooms, or 
in lieu of the latter, mushroom ketchup. 
Thicken the sravy with flour and butter. 
When the tripe is tender, it will be done. 
A lemon ma}' be sent to table with it. 

498.— TO STEW OX-CHEEK. 

Clean the head nicely, then soak it for 
Sun e hours in cold water; put it into a 
stewpan, and let it simmer gently till it is 
quite tender ; then take out the bones, and 
tie the meat up in a cloth ; put a weight 
upon it, and let it stand till the next day ; 
nitike a forcemeat of anj^ white meat, and 
boil six eggs hard; cut the cheek in 
slices ; put some at the bottom of a dish, 
then a layer of forcemeat, then one of the 
shced eggs, another of meat, and so on 
till the dish is full ; season with pepper 
and salt, and pour in as much of the 
gravy as the dish will hold ; either stew 
it in the usual way, or cover it with a 
coart-e paste and send it to the oven to be 
baked slowl}^ The paste to be removed 
before brouglit to table. 

499.— BEEF TONGUE. 

If it has been dried and smoled^ before 
it is dressed it should be soaked over- 
night ; but if only piclded, a few hours 
will be sufficient. Put it into a pot of 
cold water, and set it over a slow fire for 




Tongue Garnished, 

an hour or two before it comes to a boil : 



then put it aside, and keep it simmering 
for three and a half to four hours, ac- 
cording to its size : you can ascertain 
when it is done by probing it with a 
skewer. Peel it, trim the root, glaze it, 
and before serving surround the root 
with a paper frill, aad stick a flower or 
two on the top. 

Its appearance, and its flavor, also, 
may be improved by rubbing it over, 
when skinned, with yolk of egg, on 
which crumbs of bread and finely minced 
sweet herbs may be strewed ; then 
slightly basting it with butter, and 
browning it with a salamander. 

500.— TO STEW TONGUE. 
Salt a tongue with saltpetre and com- 
mon salt for a week, turning it every 
day ; boil it tender enough to peel ; when 
done, stew it with a moderately strong 
gravy ; season with soy, mushroom- 
ketchup, cayenne pepper, pounded cloves, 
and salt, if necessary. Serve with 
truffles, morels, and mushrooms, stewed 
in gravy. 

501.— AN EXCELLENT WAT OF PREPAR- 
ING TONGUES TO EAT COLD. 

Season with common salt and salt- 
petre, brown sugar, a little bay-salt, 
pepper, cloves, mace, and allspice, in fine 
powder, for a fortnight ; then take away 
the pickle, put the tongue into a small 
jmn, and lay some butter on it ; cover it 
with brown crust, and bake it slowdy till 
so tender that a straw will go through 
it ; put it into a tin mould, and press it 
well, laj'ing in as nuich fat as possible. 

The thin part of tongues, if hung up 
to dry, grates like hung beef, and also 
makes a fine addition to the flavor of 
omelets. 

502.— TO ROAST A BEEF TONGUE. 

Take a fine large fiesh tongue, scald it, 
and take off the skin ; cut it off* at the 
root and trim it neatly ; stick a few 



BEEF ENTREES. 



263 



cloves here and there in it, and put it in 
a cradle-spit; sprinkle it with salt, and 
baste it well with butter. Serve it with 
a good sauce in a sauceboat, made as 
follows : — Put into a stewpan half a pint 
of port wine, with about half the quan- 
tity of well seasoned gravy ; reduce it to 
one-half; then stir in a good piece of 
butter and a table-spoonful of flour ; add 
a squeeze of lemon ; when the butter is 
melted and the sauce done, place the 
tongue in a dish, and serve hot with the 
sauce poured round. In Spain, the sauce 
is strongly impregnated with saffron. 

503.— FKESH BEEF TONGUE. 
Take a green tongue, stick it with 
cloves, and boil it gently for three hours ; 
then brush it over with the yolk of an 
egg, dredge it well with bread-crumbs, 
and roast it, basting it well with butter. 
When dished, serve it with a little brown 
gravy flavored with a glass of wine, and 
lay .slices of currant-jelly round it. A 
pickled tongue, well washed, may be 
dressed in the same way, and beef- 
udders also. 

504— A FEESH NEAT'S TONGUE AND 
UDDEB 

May be roasted together in the manner 
thus described ; but when ready to be 
dished, instead of currant-jelly, put half 
a pint of gravy into a saucepan, with the 
juice of a Seville orange, two lumps of 
sugar, a glass of claret, and a piece of 
butter : toss the whole over the fire, and 
serve it up with the tongue and udder, 
garnishing the dish with slices of lemon. 
The udder should be stuck with cloves, 
and both should be continually basted. 

505.— BRISKET OF BEEE, STEWED. 

Take any quantity of brisket of beef 
required, say eight or ten pounds, cover 
it with water, stew it tender, bone the 
beef and skim off" the fat, strain the 
gravy, add a glass of port wine, flavor 



with spice tied in a bag. Have boiled 
vegetables ready ; cut them into squares, 
and garnish the beef from the gravy 
round it, and serve. 

506.— ENTElsES 

Are, in common terms, what are call- 
ed made-dishes ; of course, these are the 
dishes upon which, in the high class of 
cookery, the talent of the cook is dis- 
played. Great care should be observed 
in dishing them up, for the eye is a great 
assistance to the palate : it often happens 
that the carelessness of the servant de- 
stroys the labors of the cook, by the 
manner in which the dish is taken from 
the kitchen to the dining-room. In some 
measure to avoid that, Soyer directs a 
small thin border of mashed potatoes, 
about half an inch wide and a quarter of 
an inch deep, to be placed on the bottom 
of the dish, which keeps each object in 
its place ; they should always be served 
exceedingly hot. 

507.— COW-HEELS. 

Ox-feet^ or Cow-heels, are not highly 
esteemed, but they contain much nutri- 
ment, and may be dressed in the various 
ways already stated for tripe, with which 
they are commonly boiled. They are 
frequently eaten cold, with mustard and 
vinegar. 

Soak them well ; boil, and serve in a 
napkin, with thick melted butter, a large 
spoonful of vinegar, and a little mustard 
and salt. Or boil, and then stew them 
in a brown gravy. Or cut the heel in 
four parts, dip each in egg, flour, and fry 
them in butter. Or fry, and serve with 
onions fried and put round them : sauce 
as above. 

The water in which they are boiled 
will make equally good jellies, either 
relishing or sweet, with that of calves' 
feet, if duly prepared ; and at a far less 
expense. This jelly gives great addi- 



264 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



tional richness, likewise, to soups and 
gravies. 

508.— TO FEY OX-FEET, OR COW-HEEL. 

After preparing them as above, cut 
them into small pieces ; have ready some 
bread finely crumbled, dip the pieces into 
the yolk of an egg beaten up, and roll 
them in the bread-crumbs mixed with 
chopped parsley, pepper, and salt ; fry 
them in butter or fresh lard, of a fine 
brown color, 

509.— TO POT OX-FEET, OR COW-HEEL. 

Boil them in fresh water till the bones 
can be easily removed ; cut them into 
small pieces, add a little of the liquor, 
just enough to moisten it, and mix with 
it a spoonful of vinegar, some pepper and 
salt, and a little pounded mace ; put it 
into a mould and turn it out when cold. 
It is eaten with vinegar and mustard. 

510.— MARROW-BONES. 

If too long to serve undivided, saw 
them in two ; cover the open end with 
a lump of paste and a cloth floured and 
tied close ; the paste must be removed 
before sent to table. Boil one and a 
half or two hours according to the size ; 
put a rufiie of paper round each, and 
serve in a napkin, with very hot toast. 
The marrow is spread upon the toast, 
and seasoned with pejiper and salt. 

511.— B(EUF A-LA-MODE. 

Cut out the bone from the beef; then 
stuff the orifice with rich forcemeat, 
made with veal and oysters, and the crumb 
of a roll steeped in milk. Half roast it, 
and before it is put into the stewpan in- 
sert in the top dried and pickled mush- 
rooms, adding mushroom-powder in the 
orifices ; then put in two quarts of 
gravy made from the bones and trim- 
mings, a large onion stuck with cloves, 



and two carrots cut in slices. When the 
beef has stewed till it is quite tender, 
strain and thicken the sauce ; add to it 
a glass of wine, mushrooms and oysters, 
and sippets of fried paste ; either the 
mushrooms or oysters may be omitted, 
if the pure flavor should be more de- 
sirable: warm a few pickles with the 
garnish and send it up very hot. 

512.— BEEF A-LA-MODE.— (a PMladelpUa 
Receipt.) 

Cut the bone out of a round of fresh 
beef, and put into several incisions a 
dressing made of bread-crumbs, sweet 
herbs, and two small onions, chopped 
fine, with seasoning of salt, pepper, mace, 
and butter. Lard the beef, and fasten 
up the slits, and tie it firmly with tape. 

Put into a kettle a pint and a half of 
water, with a few slices of pork ; and 
put in the beef, stuck with a few cloves ; 
cover closely, and bake it several hours. 
When it is cooked through, dish it and 
pour over the gravy, which may be in- 
creased in quantity b}^ the addition of a 
little boiling water, and flour to thicken 
it, with a spoonful of brown sugar, and 
a glass of wine. Serve this gravy in a 
tureen, moistening the meat with it, and 
garnishing with sliced carrots and beets, 
and parsley or celery, 

518.— THE BATH RECEIPT. 

« 

Take three pounds of the rump, or any 
part of the beef which will stew well ; 
trim it nicely, and cut otf all the ftit. 
Chop all sorts of sweet herbs together 
very finely, with a little shalot and a 
great deal of spice, and put them into a 
saucer that has been rubbed with gar- 
lic, and cover them with vinegar. Cut 
fat bacon into long slips, dip it into the 
herbs and vinegar, and let the herbs be 
very thick upon the bacon ; lard the 
beef regularly on both sides, if neces- 
sary, in order that it should be thorough- 



BEEF. 



265 



ly flavored. Rub the beef over with the 
remainder of the herbs and spice. Flour 
the meat, add a piece of butter, the size 
of a walnut, rolled in flour, and a pint of 
water. Bake the beef in an oven, strain 
the gravy, which will scarcely require 
either thickening or browning, and serve 
it up with pickles on the top. It is 
most excellent when cold, but should be 
served up hot at first. The gravy may 
be boiled to a glaze if necessary. It 
will require a good deal of spice, a tea- 
spoonful of cayenne pepper, one of white 
pepper, a salt-spoonful of allspice, half 
the quantity of pounded cloves, and a 
blade of mace pounded. 

514— FILLETS OF BEEF. 

Cut the inside of a sirloin or rump in 
slices half an inch thick ; trim them neat- 
ly ; melt a little butter in a saute or fry- 
ing-pan; season the fillets; fry them 
lightly ; serve with tomato sauce, sorrel, 
anchovy butter, or gherkin sauce. 

515.— FILLET OF BEEF BRAISED. 

Take the inside of a sirloin of beef, 
stuffed or plain, but rolled together so as 
to bring the fat into the centre. Then 
strew the bottom of the stewpan with a 
few slices of ham, in which a small quan- 
tity of gravy has been put, just to pre- 
vent the bottom of the pan from burning ; 
and on this place the meat, covering it 
with chopped carrots, celery, button 
onions, and a pickled chili, together with 
a sliced gherkin, sweet herbs, salt, mace, 
and a little allspice, and simmer until 
tender, then brown it before the fire or 
with a salamander, skim and season the 
sauce, and send the meat, sauce, and veg- 
etables up in the same dish. 

516.— BEEFSTEAK A LA FRANCAISE 

Must be cut either from the sirloin or 
some other prime part of the beef, as 
riimp steaks are not known in France. 
Pour over it two large spoonfuls of the 



best Lucca oil, and let it remain all night ; 
then put it and the oil into a frying-pan, 
with some finely-chopped parsley, pep- 
per, and salt ; fry it until the gravy dries 
up and it becomes rather brown. Pour 
the contents of the pan over the steak as 
sauce. The steaks are usually garnished 
with shoes of fried potatoes. As butter 
is not known in the southern states of 
Europe, oil is there constantly used in 
lieu of it, and this Parisian pi-actice is 
borrowed from those countries. 



51T.— BEEF IN A MARINADE. 
Cut the inside of a sirloin in slices, put 
them into a marinade made as follows : — 
Take equal quantities of vinegar and 
water, slice some carrots and onions, add 
some salt and a few pepper-corns with a 
clove of garlic. Let all stew together 
till the goodness be extracted from the 
vegetables, then strain it. and let it stand 
till cold. Let the meat lie in this pickle 
for twenty-four hours before it is dressed ; 
then let it stew gently in a little good 
gravy till quite tender. Add a wine- 
glassful of port wine, a table-spoonful of 
mushroom ketchup, a teaspoonfnl of 
shalot vinegar, and some butter rolled in 
flour ; place the meat neatly in the dish, 
and pour the sauce over it. 

518.— BEEF 1 LA POLONAISE. 

Take a few pounds of the best beef, 
without bones, and, after having beaten 
it for some time with a rolling-pin, make 
in it deep incisions, but without cutting 
the meat asunder. Mince some onions, 
mix them with bread-crumbs, butter, 
pepper, and salt ; fill the incisions with 
this forcemeat, and skewer up the meat. 
Put it with some butter into a stewpan, 
and stew it upon a moderate fire. It 
should be served with brown sauce made 
from the gravy which is Urawn from the 
meat. 



2G6 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



519— A LA H0US3AED. 

Take an}- piece of fresh beef, prepared 
as nearly as possible in the f-ame manner ; 
but instead of forcemeat, fill the incisions 
with pledgets of fat ham or bacon : sea- 
son with pepper, salt, and onion ; lay it 
in an iron stewpan that has a cover to fit 
quite close, and set it by the side of the 
fire without water. Take care it does 
not burn, but it must have a strong heat ; 
in two or three hours it will be quite 
tender, and then serve with its own gravy. 

520.— BEEF A LA MODE. 

There are several methods of making 
this dish ; the hash erroneously termed 
alamode beef, sold at eating-houses, is a 
very different dish to the true beef a la 
mode. The following is called the " old 
Bath " receipt. 

Take a quantity of the buttock, or the 
leg-of-mutton piece, the clod, or where ex- 
pense is not an object, the rump of beef 
as lean as possible ; cut away the fat if 
there is any, make a mixed powder of 
cloves, a!:out twenty or thirt}^, the same 
quantity of mace, with half an ounce of 
allspice, savory, parsley, a handful of 
thyme, knotted marjoram, and all other 
sweet herbs chopped very fine ; mix them 
in a glass of vinegar. Take some fat 
bacon, cut it into slices as long as the 
beef is thick, and about a quarter of an 
inch in thickness, roll it well in the pow- 
dered spice and herb.s, make incisions of 
the requisite depth, and insert the bacon 
in the beef, which may be rubbed well 
over with what remains of the powdered 
spice, &c.. in the vinegar ; then dredge 
flour over the beef, place it in a baking 
dish with a lump of butter rolled in flour, 
with a pint of water ; bake it in the oven, 
strain the gravy, and serve with pickles 
on the top ; if after being larded it should, 
instead of being baked, be put into the 
stewpan, add to it as much water as will 
%over it, four onions chopped fine, half a 
dozen cloves of garlic, as many bay leaves, 



a few champignons, half a pint of ale, as 
much port wine ; add white pepper, cay- 
enne pepper, and salt, a teaspoonful of 
pyroligneous acid ; strew three parts of a 
pint of fine bread raspings over it. cover 
down close and stew six or eight hours, 
according to the size of the beef; when it 
has stewed sufficiently, take out the beef, 
keep it hot over boiling water, strain the 
gravy, remove the fat, champignons, &c. ; 
boil up again, season to palate, pour the 
gravy over the beef and send to table. 

This is sometimes preferred cold, in 
which case serve it cut in slices, with the 
gravy, which will be a jelly. 

521.— BEEP A LA MODE. (Soyer's.) 
Have ready six pounds of rump of 
beef, cut into pieces two inches square, 
each of which lard through with two or 
three strips of bacon; .have also two 
pounds of streaked bacon, which clear 
from the rind, and cut into squares half 
the size of the beef, put the whole into an 
earthen pan, with two calf's feet, (cut up 
small,) half a pint of sherry, two ba}'- 
leaves, a sprig of thyme, a bunch of pars- 
ley, four onions, with a clove stuck in 
each, a blade of mace, and half a pint of 
water, cover the pan as in the last, and 
put it in a moderate oven for three hours ; 
when done, do not remove the lid until 
three parts cold, then take out the meat, 
lay some of the beef at the bottom of a 
stewpan, (not too large ) then a little 
bacon, then more beef, and so on alter- 
nately, press them lightly together, pass 
the gravy through a hair sieve over, and 
leave it until quite cold and set, when dip 
the stewpan into hot water, and turn it 
out upon a dish to serve. 'J'he calf's feet 
may be made hot in a little of the stock, 
to which add two pats of butter, with 
which you have mixed a teaspoonful of 
flour, season with a little chopped parsley 
and half a spoonful of vinegar, and serve 
as an entree. The above is excellent 
either hot or cold. 



522.— ALAMODE BEEF. (KItchiner's Receipt.) 

Take about eleven pounds of the mouse 
buttock, clod, or blade-bone of beef, or 
like weight of veal ; cut it into pieces of 
three or four ounces each ; put two or 
three ounces of beef drippings, and a 
couple of large onions, into a large deep 
stewpan ; as soon as it is hot, flour the 
meat and put it into the stewpan, stirring 
it constantly with a wooden spoon ; when 
it has been on about ten minutes, dredge 
it with flour and keep doing so till you 
have stirred in enough to thicken it ; then 
cover it with boiling water, added by 
degrees, and stirring all together, (it will 
take about a gallon,) skim it when it 
boils, and then put in one drachm of 
ground black pepper, two of allspice, and 
four bay-leaves ; set the pan by the side of 
the fire, and let it stew very slowly about 
three hours; when the meat is tender, 
put it into a tureen, and it is ready for 
the table. A nice salad may be served 
with it. 

623.— A EEICANDEAU OF BEEF. 

Take a nice piece of lean beef; lard it 
with bacon very closely ; put it into a 
stewpan with a pint of broth, a glass of 
white wine, a bundle of parsley, all sorts 
of sweet herbs, a clove of garlic, a shalot 
or two, four cloves, pepper and salt. 
When the meat is become tender, cover 
it close ; skim the sauce well, and strain 
it ; set it on the fire, and let it boil till 
it is reduced to a glaze. Glaze the lard- 
ed side with this, and serve the meat on 
sorrel sauce. 

524.— POTTEB BEEP. 

To a pound of common salt, put a 
quarter of an ounce of saltpetre, and two 
ounces of coarse sugar. Rub three 
pounds of lean beef with this, and let it 
remain in the brine fifty hours. Drain 
and dry it, pepper it well with black 
pepper, put it into a pan ; cut half a 



pound of butter in slices, and lay round 
it ; lay a paste crust over it, and bake it 
very slowly for four hours and a half. 
Let it get cold, and then cut oS" the meat, 
being careful to separate the stringy 
pieces from it : pound it in a mortar, 
working up with it four ounces of fresh 
butter, and some of the gravy from the 
meat when baked, seasoned with ground 
allspice, a little mace, and pepper. When 
the meat has been combined with the 
butter and gravy, until it is worked into 
an even paste, put it into jars, and cover 
with clarified butter. 

If it is purposed to keep it long, cover 
it with bladder skin. The beef may be 
potted without in the first instance being 
salted, but if it is done it should have 
salt worked up with it; and be soon eaten 
after potting. Some persons make their 
potted beef of meat that has been previ- 
ously cooked, but the above will be found 
to be the best receipt. 

525.— COW-HEEL. 
Having been thoroughly washed, scald- 
ed, and cleaned, cut' them into jceces 
about two inches long, and one wide ; 
dip them into yolk of egg, cover them 
with fine bread-crumbs mixed with pars- 
ley minced, cayenne pepper, and salt, 
and fry them in boiling butter. 

526.— ANOTHER WAT. 

Having cleaned the feet, bone them, 
boil them, and stew them in a rich brown 
gravy ; serve them with Indian pickle. 
Or, if plainly cooked, boil until enough ; 
then serve them on a napkin, with melt- 
ed butter, flavored with a spoonful of 
vinegar, and one of made mustard. Lem- 
on pickle may be served with them. 

527.— BEEF SAUSAGES. 

To three pounds of beef, very lean, put 
one pound and a half of suet, and chop 
very finely ; season with sage in powder. 



268 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEK^EPEE. 



allspice, pepper, and salt; have skins 
thoroughly cleaned, and force the meat 
into them. 

52S.— BEEF HEART. 

Wash it very carefully, stuif it the 
same as you would a hare ; roast or bake 
it, and serve with a rich gravy and cur- 
rant jelly sauce, hash with the same and 
port wine. 

529.— BEEF HEART ROASTED. 

Wash thoroughly, stuff with force- 
mejit, send it to table as hot as it is pos- 
sible with currant jelly sauce ; it will 
take about forty minutes roasting, but 
this depends upon the fire. 

530.— BEEF HEART. 

Let it be thoroughly well cooked, and 
the skin removed. Wipe it dry with a 
clean cloth; stuff it with veal stuffing; 
roast two hours and a quarter. Make a 
brown gravy, as for hare ; and serve 
with the gravy and currant jelly. 

The most pleasant way to the palate 
of dressing this dish, is to roast the 
heart for rather less than two hours, let 
it get cold, cut it iu pieces, and jug it the 
same as hare. 

531.— STEWED RUMP OP BEEF. 

Half roast the beef; then place it in 
the stewpan, add three pints or two 
quarts of water, according to the weight 
of the joint, two wine glasses of vine- 
gar, three of red wine, more if expense 
be not considered, a bottle not being too 
much ; cider is sometimes used, but the 
meat may be stewed without it; add 
three spoonfuls of walnut ketchup two 
or three blades of mace, a shalot, a des- 
sert-spoonful of lemon pickle, cayenne 
pepper, and salt, cover the ptewpan close 
down, stew gently for two hours, or 
three if the rump of beef be large, take 
it up and place it in the dish in which it 



is to be served, keeping it hot in the 
manner previously prescribed ; remove 
the scum from the gravy in which it has 
been stewed, and strain it; add half a 
pint of mushrooms, three table-spoon- 
fuls of port wine, a spoonful of Harvey's 
sauce, thicken with flour and butter, 
pour over the beef, garnish with pickles, 
forcemeat balls, and horseradish. 

532. —HUNTER'S BEEF. 

Hang for three days a round of beef 
of twenty pounds ; at the expiration of 
that time rub it with brine composed of 
three ounces of sriltpctre, twelve ounces 
of salt, a spoonful of allspice, one of 
black pepper, an ounce of coarse brown 
sugar ; before it is rubbed with this mix- 
ture it must be boned, and it must be 
rubbed well eveiy day, turning for a 
fortnight. When it is to be dressed put 
it into a stewpan, pour in a pint of water, 
shred a quantity of mutton suet, cover 
the meat with it, layover it a thick crust, 
attaching it round the edge of the pan, 
tie over securely with paper, and bake 
for six hours in an oven moderately heat- 
ed ; take away the paper and crust, chop 
some parsley very fine, sprinkle it over 
the beef, and serve it cold. 

It will keep some time ; the gravy will 
make a good flavoring for soups. 

533.— MINCED BEEF WITH CUCUMBERS. 

Take a fine rump-steak undressed, and 
with a sharp knife shred it very fine. 
Put it into a stewpan with a little clari- 
fied biitter and some salt ; stir it over a 
quick fire for a few minutes, then add 
half a pint of good beef gravy ; let it^boil 
gently till it becomes of a proper thick- 
ness. Cut two fine cucumbers in slices 
the thickness of a crown-piece, and put 
them with an onion sliced in a stewp&n 
with some clarified butter, a little vinegar, 
a lump of sugar, and fry them of a fine 
I brown color ; put them into a stewpan 



with some plain sauce ; let it simmer 
gently till suflBciently clone ; then lay the 
mince in the dish, and pour the cucum- 
bers over it ; thicken the sauce with a 
little flour and butter ; add the squeeze 
of a lemon just before serving. 

534— BEEF COLLOPS. 

Cut the inside of a sirloin, or any other 
convenient piece, into circular shapes, the 
size and thickness of a half-crown, flour 
and fry them ; sprinkle with pepper, salt, 
chopped parsley, and shalot ; make a lit- 
tle gravy in the pan ; send to table with 
gherkin or tomato sauce. 



SOYER'S RECEIPTS. 



635.— BUBBLE AND SQUEAK. 

I am certain you must know, as well 
as myself, our hereditar}' dish called bub- 
ble and squeak ; but, like the prepara- 
tion of other things, there is a good way 
and a bad ; and, as you prefer the former 
to the latter, proceed as follows : — Boil a 
few greens, or a savoy cabbage (which 
has been previously well washed), in 
plain water until tender, which then 
drain quite dry in a colander or sieve, 
put it upon a trencher, and chop it rather 
fine with a knife ; then for a pound of 
salt beef you have in slices, put nearly a 
quarter of a pound of butter into a fry- 
ing-pan, in which saute the beef gentlj^ 
but not too dry ; when done, keep it hot, 
put the cabbage in the frying-pan, season 
with a little sa't and pepper, and when 
hot through, dress it upon a dish, lay the 
beef over, and serve. Endive or large 
cabbage-lettuces may be used instead of 
cabbage, but cai*e must be taken to drain 
off all the water. 

536.- BROILED BONES. 

Divide them, rub with mustard, pep- 
per, and salt, and broil over a clear fire ; 



serve with fried potatoes ; and a little 
gravy may be added. 



537.-TR1PE, LYONS FASHION. 

When there is any remaining from a 
previous day, dry it on a clean cloth; 
cut them into pieces an inch square ; put 
into an omelette or .saute pan one or two 
ounces of butter, according to the quan- 
tity ; slice thin a large onion, which fry 
in the pan ; then add the tripe, saute 
them for five minutes, season with salt, 
pepper, and a spoonful of vinegar ; serve 
very hot. 

538.— OX TAILS A LA JARDINlfeKE. 

Cut and cook two ox tails as directed 
for soup, but just before they are done, 
skim well, and take out the pieces of 
tails, which put upon a dish ; then in 
another stewpan put two ounces of but- 
ter, to which, when melted, add three 
ounces of flour, stirring it over the fire 
until forming a brownish roux (thicken- 
ing), then mix by degrees two quarts of 
the stock the tails were boiled in, and 
boil all together ten minutes ; then put 
in the tails, with one carrot and two tur- 
nips (cut into small dice, or any other 
shape, with a vegetable cutter), and about 
thirty button onions; let the whole sim- 
mer very gently upon the corner of the 
fire, keeping it well skimmed, until the 
vegetables are tender, and the sauce suffi- 
ciently thick to adhere to the back of the 
spoon ; dress the meat upon a dish, re- 
duce the sauce, which pour over and 
serve. 

539.— OX TAILS AU GEATIN, 

Cook two ox tails as before, and when 
cold, dry them upon a cloth, season with 
pepper and salt, have a couple of eggs 
well bt aten upon a plate, into which dip 
each piece singly, afterwards throwing 
them into a dish of bread-crumbs, to cov- 



270 



THE PEACTICAI, HOTTSEKEEPEK. 



er every part, then beat them hghtly 
with a knife, and again egg and bread- 
crumb them, broil them upon a gridiron, 
(ir place them in a very hot oven until 
of a brownish color, when serve with any 
sauce you may fancy, or a little plain 
gravy. 

540 —OX HEART. 

This dish, although not very reclierche^ 
is a good family one, and remarkable for 
its cheapness. Put it into lukewarm wa- 
ter, one hour to disgorge ; then wipe it 
well with a cloth, and stuff the interior 
with a highly seasoned veal stuffing ; tie 
it up in paper, and pass a small spit 
through the sides ; set it before a good 
file for about two hours to roast, keep- 
ing it well basted — being almost deprived 
of fat, basting is thus required ; when 
done, take off the paper, and serve with 
any sharp sauce, or a little plain gravy. 
Two hours will be sufficient to roast a 
large heart ; but if smaller of course le.'^s 
time in proportion would be required. 
I have also stufl'ed a heart with sage and 
onion, and even ventured the apple sauce ; 
both succeeded admirably, and it can be 
baked as well as roasted. 

I remember, when in business, upon 
one occasion, having a few friends pop in 
unexpectedly about luncheon-time upon 
a Saturday (which is a day I always con- 
trive to keep my larder as short as possi- 
ble), and having nothing but a heart as 
a meal to give them, I immediately gave 
orders to the cook to cut it into slices 
half an inch thick ; dip each piece in flour, 
and afterwards egg and bread-crumb 
them ; then to put four spoonfuls of oil 
in the frying-pan, lay part of the pieces 
in, and saute of a nice color, then to keep 
them hot in a dish, and saut6 the remain- 
der ; and when all done, to pour off part 
of the oil ; put a teuspoonful of flour in 
the pan. mixing it with the remaining oil 
and gravy, then pouring in a gill of wa- 



ter, season with a little pepper and salt, 
four spoonfuls of the vinegar from picca- 
lilly, and a little of the pickle finely chop- 
ped ; boil the whole a minute ; pour over 
the heart, and serve very hot. It pleased 
very much, and they made a hearty meal 
from it ; and I have since had some with 
a little plain gravy, and broiled bacon : 
in both instances it was very good. 

541.— POTATO SANDWICHES. 

Saute the slices of beef as directed for 
bubble and squeak, cover one side of each 
piece with mashed potatoes a quarter of 
an inch in thickness, egg and bread-crumb 
over, then proceed the same with the 
other sides ; fry in hot fat of a light brown 
color, as you would a sole, and serve. 
Any kind of fresh meat may be used the 
same way. 

542.— FILLET OF BEEF SAUTfi. 

After having cut the fillet in slices, 
put two ounces of butter into a clean 
frj'ing-pan, which set upon the fire, and 
when melted, lay in the meat, seasoned 
with a salt-spoonful of salt, and half that 
quantity of pepper to each piece ; turn 
them over three or four times whilst cook- 
ing, and, when done, dress upon your 
dish, with either anchovy or maitre d'ho- 
tel butter. 

543.— ANOTHER METHOD. 

When the fillets are dished up, put a 
table-spoonful of chopped onions into 
the pan they were cooked in, which 
cook for about a minute, but not letting 
them burn, then pour oft" part of the fat, 
if too much, and add two teaspoonfuls 
of flour ; stir with a wooden .spoon until 
becoming brownish, then add nearly a 
pint of water, a tablQ-spoonful of vinegar, 
and a few drops of browning ; let it boil 
a few minutes, seasoning with a little 
pepper, salt and sugar ; when of the con- 
sistency of a thin sauce, pour over the 
fillets and serve, A few chopped pickles 



SOYBK 8 BEEF RECEIPTS. 



271 



of any description (but not too hot) 
might be introduced, but then half the 
quantity of vinegar would be sufficient. 
A spoonful of Harvey's sauce may be 
added, and a little glaze improves it. 

Mutton, lamb, or pork-chops, or veal- 
cutlets, may be dressed in a similar man- 
ner. 

544_MINCED BEEF. 

Cut a pound and a half of lean cooked 
beef into very small dice, which put 
upon a plate; in a stewpan put a good 
teaspoonful of finely chopped onions, 
with a piece of butter of the size of a 
walnut, which stir over the fire until the 
onions become lightly browned, when 
stir in half a table-spoonful of flour, 
with which mix by degrees half a pint 
of broth (or water) to which you have 
added a few drops of browning and a tea- 
spoonful of vinegar ; let it boil five min- 
utes, stirring it the whole time, then 
throw in the meat, season rather highly 
with a little pepper and salt, and, when 
hot, pour it into a deep dish, and serve 
with sippets of toasted bread round, or 
poached eggs on it. 

546. -CROQUETTES OF BEEF. 
Proceed precisely as in the last, but 
omitting the vinegar ; when done, stir in 
two yolks of eggs quickly, stir another 
minute over the fire, then pour it upon 
a dish until cold ; have a couple of eggs 
well beaten upon a plate, also some 
bread-crumbs in a separate dish, then 
divide the preparation into about a 
dozen pieces, which roll up into round 
balls, or any other shape, and throw 
them into the bread-crumbs, move them 
over until well covered, then roll them 
into the egg, then the bread-crumbs 
again, from which take them gently, 
patting the surface lightly with a knife, 
put them into very hot lard or fat to fry 
of a yellowish-brown color, being careful 
not to break them whilst frying ; when 



done, drain them upon a cloth, and serve 
either upon a napkin, or with fried par- 
sley. 

546.— A FAMILY FRENCH SALAD FOE THE 
SUMMER. 

Cut up a pound of cold beef into thin 
slices, which put into a salad-bowl, with 
about half a pound of white fresh lettuce, 
cut into pieces similar to the beef, season 
over with a good teaspoonful of salt, half 
that quantity of pepper, two spoonfuls 
of vinegar, and five of good salad oil, 
stir all together lightly with a fork and 
spoon, and when well mixed it is ready 
to serve. 

For a change, cabbage-lettuce may be 
used, or, if in season, a little endive (well 
washed), or a little celery, or a few gher- 
kins ; also, to vary the seasoning, a little 
chopped tarragon and chervil, chopped 
eschalot!?, or a httle scraped garlic, if ap- 
proved of, but all in proportion, and used 
with moderation. White haricot beans 
are alt^o excellent with it. Remains of 
cold veal, mutton, or lamb may be dress- 
ed the same way. 

547.— POTATOES AND MEAT SALAD. 

Proceed as in the last, but omitting 
the lettuce ; if any cold potatoes remain 
from a previous dinner, peel and cut 
them in halves if small, but in quarters 
if largo, and then into pieces the size of a 
shilling, but four times the thickness ; 
put them into a salad-bowl with the 
meat, seasoning as before, but using more 
oil and vinegar, and adding a teaspoonful 
of chopped parsley. A small quantity 
of any description of pickles might be 
added to this salad, as also some ancho- 
vies or olives. The remains of any fowls 
or turkey may be mixed in salads, but 
according to our habits, many persons 
would fancy they were not nutritious ; of 
that I can assure them to the contrary. 

The quantity of the meat and vege- 



272 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEE. 



table should pretty equally balance with 
each other ; after such a meal, a man's 
appetite is perfectly satisfied, and he is 
ready for an afternoon's work if required. 
It also does not require the aid of any 
fire, which we so ungratefully abhor in 
hot weather. Mr. B. very much ap- 
proves of this dish once a week in sum- 
mer 

548.— OX KIDNEYS. 

Cut a nice fresh ox-kidney into slices, 
each being about the size of a half crown 
piece, but double the thickness (avoiding 
the white part, or root, which is tough 
and indigestible), then put a quarter of a 
pound of butter into a stevvpan upon the 
fire, and when very hot but not black, 
put in the pieces of kidney, stirring them 
round with a wooden spoon three min- 
utes over a brisk fire ; then add for each 
pound weight of kidney, half a table- 
spoonful of flour, half a teaspoonful of 
salt, half that quantity of pepper, and a 
little sugar, moisten with a gill of water 
and half a glass of sherry, add a little 
browning, if handy, and let simmer 
gently for five minutes, stirring them 
round occasionally ; if too thick, add a 
few drops more water, the same should 
be sufficiently thick to adhere to the 
back of the spoon, pour them out upon 
your dish, and serve very hot. Broth 
u.ight be used instead of water if conve- 
nient, but then the seasoning should be a 
little diminished, a little chopped escha- 
lot, parsley, or a few mushrooms, would 
be an improvement. 

By cutting an ox-kidney lengthwise in 
three slices, it might be broiled or sau- 
teed; if for gentlemen season rather 
highly, but if ladies are to be the par- 
takers, season more moderately ; a little 
gravy ma}^ be served with it, to which 
you have added at little ketchup ; the 
root of the kidnej'^ must not be cut away 
in this case, although not eatable. Ox- 



kidneys are also an excellent addition ta 
beef-steak puddings and pies. 

549.— OX-FEET or COW-HEELS 

Are very nutritious, especially when 
well boiled : they may be served in either 
of the methods directed for tripe, or with a 
plain parsley-and-butter sauce, to which, 
for a change, the juice of a lemon or a 
drop of vinegar may be added. Should 
any be left from the first day's dinner it 
may be served a la Lyonnaise, as dhected 
for cold tripe. 

550.— REMAINS OF OX-TONGUE. 
The remains of a tongue from a pre- 
vious dinner may be again served thus ; — 
Cut it into thin slices, put a small piece 
of butter into a frying-pan, lay the pieces 
of tongue over, which warm a few min- 
utes in a saute-pan, and serve wath veal 
or fowl if any ; when at home alone, I 
frequently have it with mashed potatoes 
under it ; it makes a very good dish for 
luncheon. The pieces of tongue might 
also be egged and bread-crumbed pre- 
vious to cooking as above, and served 
with a plain gravy, or any sharp sauce. 
(^See Sauces.) Or should you have any 
tongue, and veal, and beef remaining, 
sprinkle a little chopped shalots at the 
bottom of a pie-dish, lay a layer of meat 
over, season with a little salt, pepper, 
and chopped parsley, then a layer of the 
tongue ; have some yellowish crusts of 
bread grated, a teaspoonful of which 
sprinkle over the tongue, then again a 
layer of the meat proceeding thus until 
the dish is nearly full, when sprinkle 
more of the brown bread-crumbs over 
tlie top, placing a small piece of butter 
here and • there , pour in two wine-glass- 
fuls of water, set it in a warm oven half 
an hour, and serve ver^- hot. Or instead 
of bread-crumbs, make a httle good 
mashed potato, which spread over it 
smoothly with a spoon or knife, bake 
half an hour in a warm oven, and serve. 



80YER 8 BEEF RECEIPTS. 



273 



Should the remains of a tongue be but 
small, and if well pickled and boiled, the 
root and all would be excellent in any 
kind of beef, lamb, mutton, veal, or pork, 
hashed, or in pies or puddings made from 
these meats. 

551.— REMAINS OF SALT BEEF. 
The remains of salt beef are very ex- 
cellent served in the few following ways, 
no matter from what joint, or from what 
part of the joint : Cut as large and thin 
slices as possible, dip each slice into some 
vinegar from mixed pickles, previously 
poured upon a plate in small quantities ; 
lay about a pound of the meat thus pre- 
pared upon a flat dish, pour a wine-glass- 
ful of water over, warm it through in the 
oven, or before a slow fire, and serve. 
Another way is, after having dipped the 
beef in the vinegar, roll them in flour, 
and proceed as above, adding double the 
quantity of water. Another way is to 
saute the slices with a little butter in a 
frying-pan, have ready some nice mashed 
potatoes very hot, lay the beef over, and 
serve. 

552.— COLD BEEF. 

If any be lelt from a previous dinner, 
put it in a dish, placing the meat in the 
centre, rather higher, cover over with 
some delicate mashed , potatoes, about 
two inches in thickness, to form a dome, 
rub some egg over with a paste-brush 
and sprinkle crumbs of bread (either 
grated or otherwise) upon the top, and 
set it in the oven until well browned, 
when serve. 

553. -BEEF BEOTH. 

Take a leg of beef, wash it clean, crack 
the bone in two or three parts, put it 
into a pot with a gallon of water, skim it 
well, then put two or three blades of 
mace in a little bundle of parsley, and a 
crust of bread, let it boil till the beef is 
quite tender, toast some bread, cut it into 



dice, put them into a tureen, lay in the 
meat, and pour the soup over it. 

554.— MARROW BONES. 

They must be sawn into convenient 
sizes ; cover the ends with a little dough 
made of flour and water, and tie them in 
a floured cloth, boil them an hour and a 
half, serve on a napkin with dry toast. 

555.— BAKED MARROW BONES. 

The bones should be prepared as above 
and laid in a deep dish, then put into an 
oven and bake gently for two hours. 
They are sometimes cooked in batter, 
but if so, the marrow should be cleared 
from the bones and put in buttered cases 
made of clean foolscap paper ; let them 
lie in the batter and serve with them in 
it ; when the batter is baked the marrow 
will be also done. 

556.— CURRIED BEEF, MADRAS WAT. 

Take about two ounces of butter, and 
place it in a saucepan, with two small 
onions cut up into slices, and let them 
fry until they are of a light brown ; then 
add a table-spoonful and a half of curry 
powder, and mix it up well. Now put 
in the beef cut into pieces about an inch 
square ; pour in from a quarter to a third 
of a pint of milk, and let it simmer for 
thirty minutes ; then take it off, and 
place in a dish, with a little lemon juice. 
Whilst cooking stir constantly, to prevent 
it burning. Send to table with a wall of 
mashed potatoes or boiled rice round it. 

It greatly improves any curry to add 
with the milk a quarter of a cocoa-nut, 
scraped very small, and squeezed through 
muslin with a little water ; this softens 
the taste of the curry, and, indeed, no 
curry should be made without it. 

557.— BEEF PALATES. 

Simmer them in water several hours, 
till they will peel ; then cut the palates 
into slices, or leave them whole, as you 



274 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



choose, and stew them in a rich gravy 
till quite tender. Before you serve, sea- 
son them with cayenne, salt, and ketchup. 
If the gravy was drawn clear, give it a 
boil with some butter and flour. 

If to be served white, boil them in milk, 
and stew them in fricassee-sauce ; adding 
cream, butter, flour, and mushroom pow- 
der, and a little pounded mace. 

558.— PRESSED BEEP. 

Procure a piece of brisket of beef, cut 
off the bones, and salt it. adding a little 
sal prunella to the brine and a little 
spice ; let the beef remain in pickle rather 
better than a week ; when ready to cook, 
roll it round, tie it in a cloth, and let it 
simmer gently in plenty of water about 
seven hours if a whole one, but four 
hours if only the thin end ; when done 
take it up, remove the string, and tie the 
cloth at each end, put it upon a dish with 
another dish over, upon which place half 
a hundred weight, leaving it until quite 
cold, then take the meat from the cloth, 
trim and glaze it lightly, and serve gar- 
nished with a few sprigs of fresh parsley. 

559.— PICKLE FOR BEEF A LA GARRICK. 

Take twenty pounds of salt, three- 
quarters of a pound of saltpetre, four 
cakes of sal prunella, two pounds of moist 
sugar, two cloves of garlic, with which 
rub the meat well, and leave it rather 
more than a week, rubbing and turning 
it over every day. 

This pickle is adapted for any thing 
that is required red. 

5G0.-8PICED BEEF. 

Procure a piece of thin flank of beef 
about ten pounds in weight, which salt 
as the last for about a week ; when ready 
split it open with a knife and lay it out 
flat upon a dressor, having previously 
prepared six onions chopped very fine, 
with about ten sprigs of parsley, and the 



leaves of ten sprigs of thyme, the same of 
maijoram, two ounces of mixed spice, 
(without cinnamon,) and half an ounce 
of black pepper, mix all together, spread 
half upon the beef as it lays before you, 
then fold it over to its original shape, lay 
on the remainder of the preparation, roll 
it up tightly in a cloth, boil, press, and 
serve as directed in the last article. 

561.— TO FRICASSEE COLD ROAST BEEF. 

Cut the beef into slices, which should 
be very thin, put it with some strong 
broth into a stewpan, add parsley chopped 
small, an onion scored, and a piece of 
butter, simmer fifteen minutes, add a 
glass of port wine, a teaspoonful of pyro- 
ligneous acid, and the yolk of a couple of 
eggs ; mix well, stew quickly, pot the 
dish, rub it with a shalot, pour fricassee 
into it, and serve. 

562.— BEEF FRICANDEAU. 

Take a piece of beef as lean as you can 
obtain it, lard it well over on one side 
with pieces of bacon. Place in a stewpan 
an eschalot, a bunch of sweet herbs, a 
faggot of parsley, a little cloves, three 
parts of a quart of good broth, one glass 
of sherry, and pepper and salt to palate. 
A clove of garlic may be added to the 
eschalot if it is not found of sufficient 
strength to flavor it without. Put on 
the meat, and stew until tender, take out 
the gravy, keep the meat covered down 
close, skim and strain the sauce, boil it 
until reduced to a glaze. Glaze the b,eef 
with it on the side larded, and .serve with 
sauce piquante, or sauce sorrel. 

563.— 8TRASBURG POTTED MEAT. 

Take a pound and a half of the rump 
of beef, cut into dice, and put into an 
earthen jar, with a quarter of a pound 
of butter at the bottom, tie the jar close 
up with paper, and set over a pot to boil ; 
when nearly done, add cloves, mace, all- 



BEEF. 



275 



spice, nutmeg, salt, and cayenne pepper 
to taste ; then boil till tender, and let it 
get cold. Pound the meat, with four 
anchovies washed ana boned, add a quar- 
ter of a pound of oiled butter, woik it 
well together with the gravy, warm a 
little, and add cochineal to color. Then 
press into small pots, and pour melted 
mutton suet over the top of each. 

6&4.— A CULLIS. 

You must take meat according to the 
number of guests ; if ten or twelve, a leg 
of veal and a ham will be necessary, with 
all the fat, skin, and outside cut off; cut 
the leg of veal into pieces about three 
or four inches thick each way, place them 
in a stewpan. and then the slices of ham, 
two carrots, and an onion cut in two, 
cover it close, let it stew gently at first, 
and as it begins to brown, take (>ff the 
cover and turn it to color on all sides the 
same, but lake care not to burn the meat ; 
when it has a prtjtty brown color, moisten 
you]- cullis with broth made of beef or 
other meat, season the cullis with a little 
sweet basil, some cloves, and a little gar- 
lic ; pare a lemon, cut it in slices and put 
it into the cullis with some mushrooms. 
Put into a stewpan a good lump of but- 
ter, and set it over a slow fire ; put into 
it two or three handfuls of flour, stir it 
with a wooden ladle, and let it take a 
color ; if the cullis be pretty brown you 
must put in some flour, the flour being 
brown with the cullis, pour it gently into 
the cullis, keeping it stirring with a 
wooden ladle, then let the cullis stew 
softly and skim off" all the fat ; put in two 
glasses of champagne or other white 
wine, but take care to keep the cullis 
very thin, so that you may take the fat 
well off" and clarify it ; you must clarify it 
by putting it into a stove that draws 
well, cover it close and let it boil without 
uncovering imtil it boils over, then un- 
cover and take off* the fat that is round 
the stewpan, then wipe it off' the cover 



also and cover it again ; when the cullis 
is done take out the meat and strain the 
cullis through a silken strainer ; this cul 
lis is for all sorts of ragouts, fowls, pies. 
and tureens. 

565.— BUBBLE AND SQUEAK. (New Receipt.) 

Cut into pieces, convenient for frying, 
cold roast or boiled beef; pepper, salt, 
and fry them ; when done, lay them on a 
hot drainer, and while the meat is drain- 
ing f om the fat used in frying theui, have 
iu readiness a cabbage already boiled in 
two waters ; chop it small, and put it in 
the frying-pan with some butter, add a 
little pepper and salt, keep stirring it, 
that all of it may be equally done. When 
taken from the fire, sprinkle over the 
cabbage a very little vinegar, onl}^ enough 
to give it a slight acid taste. Place the 
cabbage in the centre of the dish ; and 
arrange the slices of meat neatly ai^ound 
it. 

566.— LOBSCOUS. 

Mince, not too finely, some cold roast 
beef or mutton. Chop the bones, and 
put them in a saucepan with six potatoes 
jieeled and sliced, one onion, also sliced, 
some pepper and salt ; of these make a 
gravy. When the potatoes are completelj'' 
incorporated with the gravy, take out the 
bones, and put in the meat; stew the 
whole together for an hour before it is to 
be served. 



56'.— BEEF RISSOLES. 

Mince and season cold beef, and flavor 
it with mushroom or walnut ketchup. 
Make of beef dripping a very thin paste, 
roll it out in thin pieces about four inches 
square ; enclo.se in each piece some of the 
mince, in the same way as for puff's, cut- 
ting each neatl}^ all round ; fry them in 
dripping of a very light brown. The 
pasie can scarcely be rolled out too thin. 



276 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER, 



SEA COOKERY. 

668.— FIRST WATCH STEW. 

Cut pieces of salt beef, and pork into 
dice, put them into a stewpan with six 
whole peppercorns, two blades of mace, 
a few cloves, a leaspoonful of celery- 
seeds, and a faggot of dried sweet herbs ; 
cover with water, and stQw gently for an 
hour, then add fragments of carrots, tur- 
nips, parsley, or any other vegetables at 
hand, with two sliced onions, and some 
vinegar to flavor ; thicken with flour, or 
rice, remove the herbs and pour into the 
dish with toasted bread, or freshly baked 
biscuit broken small, and serve hot. 
When they can be procured, a few pota- 
toes improve it very much. 

569.— SEA PIE. ■ 

Make a thick pudding crust, line a dish 
with it, or what is better, a cake tin, put 
a layer of sliced onions, then a layer of 
salt beef cut in slices, a layer of sliced 
potatoes, a layer of pork, and another of 
onions ; strew pepper over all, cover with 
a crust, and tie down tightly with a cloth 
previously dipped in boiling water and 
floured. Boil for two hours, and serve 
hot in a dish. 



YEAL. 



The failing of this meat is its tendency 
to turn ; should it show any symptoms 
of doing this, put it into scalding water 
and let it boil for seven or eight minutes, 
with some pieces of charcoal affi.xed ; 
plunge it into cold water immediately 
after taking it out of the hot, and put it 
into the coolest place you have at com- 
mand ; the skirt from the breast, and 
the pipe from the loin should always be 
removed in hot weather. 

Veal of about two or three months old 
is the best ; the flesh ought to be white, 
approaching to pink, and the fat firm ; 



it is cut up the same as mutton, except 
that, in the hind-quarter, the loin is cut 
straight, leaving the aitch-bone on it, 
which may be either dres.'^ed on the loin 
or .separate. The fore-quarter consists 
of the shoulder, neck, and breast. The 
hind-quarter, of the knuckle, leg, fillet, and 
the loin. The head and pluck consist of 
thcr heart, liver, nuts, skirts, melt, and 
the heart, throat, and sweetbread. 

The bull-calf is the best ; the flesh is 
firmer grained or redder, and the fat 
more curdled than the cow-calf, which 
latter is in general preferred, being more 
delicate and better adapted for made 
dishes, as having the udder. To Iceep 
veal, we have to observe — the first part 
that turns bad of a leg of veal is where 
the udder is skewered back. The skewer 
should be taken out, and both that and 
the whole of the meat wiped every day ; 
by which means it will- keep good three 
or four days in hot weather, if the larder 
be a good one. Take care to cut out 
the pipe that runs along the chine of a 
loin, as you do of beef, to hinder it from 
tainting. The skirt of the hreast is 
likewise to be taken off", and the inside 
wiped and scraped, and sprinkled with a 
little salt. 

If veal is in danger of not keeping, 
wash it thoroughly, and boil the joint 
ten minutes, putting it into the pot when 
the water is boiling hot; then put it 
into a very cool larder, or plunge it into 
cold water till cool, and then wipe and 
put it by. If in the least tainted, it can- 
not be recovered, as brown meats are, 
by the use of charcoal or pyroligneous 
acid. 

570.— VEAL— THE FILLET. 

The fillet derives much of its pleasant 
flavor from being stufled. Veal in it- 
sel being nearly tasteless, the stufiing 
should be placed in the hollow place 
from whence the bone is extracted, and 



VEA.L. 



277 



the joint should be roasted a beautiful 
brown ; it should be roasted gradually, 
as the meat being solid will require to 
be thoroughly done through without 
burning the outside ; like pork, it is 
sufficiently indigestible without being 
sent to table and eaten half cooked; a 
dish of boiled bacon or ham should ac- 
company it to table, a lemon also. 

In roasting veal, care must be taken 
that it is not at first placed too near the 
fire ; the fat of a loin, one of the most 
delicate joints of veal, should be covered 
with greased paper; a fillet also, should 
have on the caul until nearly done 
enough : the shoulder should be thorough- 
ly boiled ; when nearly done dredge with 
flour, and produce a fine froth. 

571. -FILLET OF VEAL, BOILED. 

Bind it round with tape, put it in a 
floured cloth and in cold water, boil very 
gently two hours and a half, or if sim- 
mered, which is perhaps the better way, 
four hours will be taken ; it may be sent 
to table in bechamel or with oyster 
sauce. 

Care should be taken to keep it as 
white as possible. 

5T2.— FILLET OF VEAL EOASTED. 

Take out the bone, fill the space with 
a fine stufBng, and let the fat be skewer- 
ed quite round ; stufiF it also well under 
the skin with bread, sage, chopped onions 
and parsley, as much depends on the quan- 
tity and flavor of the stuffing, and send 
the large side uppermost. Put a paper 
over the fat ; and take care to allow a 
sufficient time for roasting ; put it a good 
distance from the fire, as the meat is 
very solid, and must be so thoroughly 
done as not to leave the least appearance 
of red gravy ; serve it with melted butter 
poured over, and gravy round. Ham or 
bacon should be served with it, and fresh 
cucumbers if in season. 
18 



Although considered very indigestible, 
it is a favorite joint and generally roast- 
ed, although it may be easily divided 
into three parts and each dressed sepa- 
rately ; that piece known in a " round of 
beef" as the " silver side," being roasted, 
and the remaining two stewed in differ- 
ent ways. 

In Paris, a longe de veau is cut some- 
what in the shape of a haunch of mutton, 
with the fillet and part of the loin joined 
together. 

573.— TO ROAST 

A fillet of veal, it should be stuffed 
with the following ingredients : thyme, 
marjoram, parsley, savory, finely minced 
lemon-peel, mace, pepper, nutmeg, with 
bread-crumbs ; to which add two eggs. 
and four ounces "of marrow-suet: lay 
this stuffing in the udder, and, if any 
remain, in such holes as you think proper 
made in the fleshy part. Sei-ve with 
melted butter, and garnish with the lem- 
on-peel sliced. 

574.— FILLET OF VEAL BOILED. (English.) 

Choose a small delicate fillet for this 
purpose ; prepare as for roasting, or stuff 
it with an oj^ster forcemeat; bind it 
round with a tape ; after having washed 
it thoroughly, cover it with milk and 
water in equal quantities, and let it boil 
very gently three and a half or four 
hours, keeping it carefully skimmed. 
Send it to table with a rich white sauce, 
or. if stuffed with oysters, a tureen of 
oyster sauce ; garnish with stewed celery 
and slices of bacon. A boiled tongue 
should be served with it. 

575.— LOIN OP VEAL ROASTED. 

Take a loin of veal ; run a lark-spit 
along the chine-bones ; then tie the ends 
of the lark-spit on the usual spit, draw- 
ing down the flap over the kidney. Cover 
it well with buttered paper, and tie it up 



278 



THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



carefully; let it roast gently for three 
hours. When about to serve, remove 
the paper, sprinkle well with salt, dredge 
it with flour, and finish basting with a 
small piece of fresh butter. 

This joint is frequently divided ; the 
kidney end and the chump. The Mdney 
end sent up with a toast under the fat ; 
the clnimp end should be stuffed like the 
fillet, or sent up with balls of stuflBng in 
the dish ; pour melted butter over the 
joint, and gravy round. It also forms an 
excellent stew if served up in winter 
with rice, and in summer with green 
peas. 

576.-BPvEAST OF VEAL. 

Cover it with the caul, and if you re- 
tain the sweetbread, skewer it to the 
back, but take off the caul when the 
meat is nearly done ; it will take two 
and a half to three hours roasting. 

Or : — Remove the tendons, and insert 
in their place a stuflBng ; then roast as 
before. 

Or : — Raise the skin, and force in as 
much stuffing as possible ; skewer it up ; 
this will give a very good flavor to the 
joint. 




A Breast of Veal Boasted. 
577.— TO STEW. 

Cut a breast, or a portion, in pieces ; 
fry them with a little butter, an onion 
and a cabbage-lettuce shred small ; when 
browned, add a little flour, shake it well 
together ; then add a small quantity of 
broth or water ; let it stew gently ; when 



nearly done, throw in green peas suffi- 
cient for the dish ; when the peas are 
done, add a little pounded sugar, pepper, 
and salt. It may require a little more 
thickening, in which case knead a little 
flour and butter together. 

F'78.— LOIN OF VEAL BOILED. 

Take a loin about eight pounds, skewer 
down the flap without distiirbing the 
kidney, put the loin into a kettle with 
enough cold water to cover it, let it come 
gradually to a boil (it cannot boil too 
slowly), continue for two hours and a 
quarter, but it must boil ; remove the 
scum as it rises, send it to table in 
bechamel, or with parsley and melted 
butter. 

579.— KNUCKLE OF VEAL. 
Get a knuckle of a leg of veal, saw it 
in three parts, but not to separate it, 
scald it, and put it for a few minutes in 
cold water, then place it in a stewpan 
with some good second stock, an onion 
or two, a faggot of herbs, a few sprigs of 
parsley, a cai rot, a turnip, and a head of 
celery, a blade of mace, a slice of raw 
ham, fat and lean ; stew it for several 
hours, until the gristle is soft, take out 
the veal, cover it over to keep it white ; 
strain the liquor, wash a pound of rice 
and boil it in this liquor, add li:ilf a pint 
of cream or milk, when the rice is done 
put your veal again into it, to make hot ; 
dish your veal carefully, and season the 
rice with pepper and salt, and pour over 
the veal ; if with parsley and butter in- 
stead of water, use the stock from it, and 
chop fine some boiled parsley and mix 
into it. 

580.— KNUCKLE OF VEAL, BOILED. 

Put sufficient water over it to cover it. 
let it boil gently, and when it reaches a 
boil as much salt as would fill a dessert- 
spoon may be thrown in, keep it well 
skimmed, and boil until tender, serve 



VEAL. 



279 



with parsley and butter, and a salted 
cheek. 

Allow twenty minutes to each pound. 

Three quarters of a pound of rice may 
be boiled with it, or green peas, or cu- 
cumbers ; turnips and small spring onions 
may be put in, allowing them so much 
time from the cooking of the veal as they 
will require. 

581.— KNUCKLE OF VEAL STEWED. 

Place your knuckle of veal in a stew- 
pan, if the knuckle is a very large one it 
may be divided into two or three pieces 
for the sake of convenience, put in the 
pan with it a few blades of mace, a little 
thyme, an onion, some whole pepper, a 
burnt crust of bread, and cover with from 
three to four pints of water, cover down 
close, and boil ; when it has boiled place 
it by the side of the fire and let it sim- 
mer for at least two hours, take it up. 
keep it hot while you strain its hquor, 
then pour the gravy. over it, and send it 
to table with a lemon garnish. 

582.— NECK OF VEAL WITH PEAS. 
Add to the meat, half an hour previous 
to its being done, one quart of peas, 
twelve button onions, and a little more 
sugar ; remove the fat, and serve as be- 
fore. 

588. -NECK OF VEAL WITH NEW POTA- 
TOES. 

As before, using new potatoes in place 
of the peas. Any other vegetable, as 
French beans, broad beans, &c., mav be 
served with it in the same way. 




Neck of veaL 
584- NECK OF VEAL 

May be boiled or roasted — the latter 



only if it be the best end, and sent to table 
garnished as in the above engraving — it 
may be broiled in chops, but is best in a 
pie ; it may be, however, larded and stew- 
ed as follows : — 

585.— NECK OF VEAL STEWED. 

Lard it with square pieces of ham or 
bacon which have been previously rubbed 
in a preparation of shalots, spices, pep- 
per, and salt ; place it in the stewpan 
with about three pints of white stock, 
add a bay or laurel leaf, and a couple of 
onions ; add a dessert-spoonful of brandy 
or whiskey, the latter if brandy is not at 
hand, stew till tender, dish the meat, 
strain the gravy, pour over the joint, and 
serve. . 

586.— BEE AST OF VEAL FOPvCED. 

After taking out the tendons and all 
the rib bones, trim the veal, spread it all 
over with forcemeat, sprinkle ovar, if 
you have got it, a little chopped truffle or 
mushrooms, sprinkle a little pepper and 
salt over it, then roll it tightly up and 
tie it, then put it into a cloth and stew 
it for several hours, take it up, and take 
off the cloth and strings ; dry it and glaze 
it, have some good sauce. 

587.— SHOULDER OF VEAL. 

Remove the knuckle and roast what 
remains, as the fillet ; it may or may not 
be stuffed at pleasure; if not stuffed, 
serve with oyster or mushroom sauce ; 
if stuffed, with melted butter. 

588.— NECK OF VEAL BEAISED. 

This is done much in the same manner 
as the neck of veal stewed ; it is larded 
with bacon rolled in chopped parsley, 
pepper, salt, and nutmeg, placed with the 
scrag in a tosser, in which place lean 
bacon, celery, carrots, one onion, a glass 
of sherry or Madeira, with sufficient 
water to cover it all, stew over a quick 
fire until it is sufficiently tender, remove 
the veal and strain the gravy, place the 



280 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



veal in a stewpan in wliich some butter 
and flour has been browned, let the 
bones be uppermost, when the veal is 
nicely colored it is enough ; boil as much 
of the liquor as may be required, skim 
it clean, squeeze a lemon into it, pour it 
over the meat, and serve. 

589— VEAL CUTLETS. 
The cutlets should be cut as hand- 
somely as possible, and about three 
quarters of an inch in thickness, they 
should before cooking be well beaten 
with the blade of a chopper, if a proper 
beater be not at hand, they should then 
be fried a light brown and sent up to 
table, garnished with parsley and rolls 
of thin sliced, nicely fried bacon ; they 
are with advantage coated previously to 
cooking with the yolk of an egg, and 
dredged with bread-crumbs. 

590.— VEAL CUTLETS. 
A very nice way to cook cutlets is to 
make a batter with half a i)int of milk, 
an egg beaten to a froth, and fiour enough 
to render it thick. When the veal is 
fried brown, dip it into the batter, then 
put it back into the fat, and fry it until 
brown again. If you have any batter 
left, it is nice dropped by the large spoon- 
ful into the fat, and fried till brown, then 
laid over the veal. Thicken the gravy 
and turn it over the whole. 

591.— ANOTHER WAT. 
Procure your cutlets cut as above, coat 
them with the yolk of eggs well beaten, 
strew ovf r them bread-crumbs powdered, 
sweet herbs, and grated lemon-peel and 
nutmeg, put some fresh butter in the pan, 
and when boiling put in your cutlets; 
now make some good gravy ; when the 
cutlets are cooked take them out and 
keep them before the fire to keep hot, 
dredge into the pan a little flour, put in a 
piece of butter, pour a little white stock, 
squeeze in juice of lemon to taste, sea- 



son with pepper and salt, add mushroom- 
ketchup, boil quickly until a light brown, 
pour it over the cutlets, and serve, the 
cutlets being laid in a circle round the 
dish, and the gravy in the centre. 

592.— VEAL CUTLETS CURRIED. 
The cutlets may be prepared as for 
collops by cutting them into shape, dip- 
ping them into the yolk of eggs, and 
seasoning them with fine bread-crumbs 
about four table-spoonfuls, two spoonfuls 
of curry-powder, and one of salt ; fry 
them in fresh butter ; serve with curry 
sauce, which may be made with equal 
parts of curry-powder, flour, and butter, 
worked well together into a paste ; put 
it into the pan from which the cutlets 
have been removed, moisten with a cup- 
ful of water in which cayenne and salt 
have been stirred; let it thicken and 
serve very hot. 

593.— VEAL CUTLETS— CRUMBED OR 
PLAIN. 

If you have not got the leg of veal or 
the cutlet piece, get a thick slice of veal 
and cut fourteen good sized cutlets, not 
too thin, flatten each, and trim them 
a good shape, wet your beater in cold 
water to keep the veal from sticking, 
if for plain cutlets flour them well 
and dry them, then again have ready 
your saute-pan or fryingpan quite hot, 
with a good bit of lard or butter, 
then put in your cutlets, and fry a nice 
light brown ; pepper and salt them ; if 
to be bread-crumbed, trim them as be- 
fore ; have ready a little clarified butter, 
some chopped parsley, and shalot, pepper, 
and salt, all mixed together with a yolk 
or two of eggs well mixed ; .have ready 
some bread-crumbs, put a spoonful of 
flour amongst them well mixed ; dip each 
cutlet into this omelet, and thin bread- 
crumb them, patting each cutlet with 
your knife to keep it in the proper shape, 
making the bread-crumbs stick to the 



cutlet ; melt some lard in your saute-pan, 
and place your cutlets in it ready to fry 
a nice brown. 

594— VEAL CUTLETS— 1 LA MAINTENON. 

Half fry your cutlets, dip them in a 
seasoning of bread-crumbs, parsley, sha- 
lots, pepper and salt, and the yolk of an 
egg ; enclose them in clean writing paper, 
and broil them. 

595.— C0LL0P3 OF VEAL. 

The piece of veal as before named, or 
irf you have it, a leg of veal ; if not, get a 
cutlet and cut it into thin pieces, and 
beat very thin, saut ' them off, and when 
all done trim them round the size of a 
crown piece ; pepper and salt them, place 
in a stewpan with some brown sauce if 
for brown, and if for white bechamel 
sauce ; add some forcemeat balls, some 
stewed mushrooms, and some whole 
dressed truffles ; season with pepper, salt, 
sugar, and lemon ; dish the collops round 
as you would cutlets, putting the mush- 
rooms, and balls, and truffles in the mid- 
dle. 

596.— TENDONS OF VEAL. 

This is from a breast of veal. Turn 
up the breast and with a sharp knife cut 
oflF the chine-bone all along, taking -rare 
you do not take any of the gristle with 
the bone ; when you have cut off this 
bone, place your knife under the gristle 
and follow it all along until you have 
raised it up ; then cut off the tendons by 
keeping close to the rib bones ; when 
you have got it out cut twelve or four- 
teen tendons endwise, keeping your knife 
slanting, as each may be the size of a 
small p_attie round, but not too tliin ; 
then put them on in cold water to scald, 
then put them in cold again ; prepare a 
stewpan lined with fat bacon or ham, 
trim each tendon round, throw the tur- 
nip in your braise, cover them with 



second stock, and some of the skim- 
mings ; let them stew gently for six or 
seven hours ; be careful in taking them 
up, and place them separately upon a 
drying sieve ; glaze them two or three 
times ; dish them on a border ; they 
should be so tender that you might suck 
them through a auill. 



59T.— GALANTINE VEAL. 

Take a large breast of veal ; take off 
the chine-bone, then take out the gristle 
called tendons, then take out all the rib 
bones ; flatten it well, have ready some 
good forcemeat or sausage meat ; spread 
it all over with your forcemeat, then 
make a line of green gherkins, then a 
line of red capsicums, then a line of fat 
ham or bacon, then some hard boiled 
yolks of eggs, then a line of truffles ; if 
you have any boiled calves' feet left from 
jelly stock, sprinkle it in with pieces of 
breast of fowl ; sprinkle pepper and salt 
all over it, then roll it up tightly, and 
likewise do so in a cloth ; tie it up lightly ; 
stew it for two hours or more ; take it 
up and press it flat ; let it lie until quite 
cold ; take oiF the cloth. It will make 
excellent cold dishes. 



598.— OLIVES OF VEAL— E6TL 

Cut some cutlets a moderate thickness 
from the chump end of the loin of veal, 
beat them and trim them, eight or a 
dozen, according to dish ; get some slices 
of ham or bacon, cover the veal with 
forcemeat and with the fat, sprinkle be- 
tween a little chopped ro.ushrooms, pep- 
per and salt, roll each up, and tie and 
skewer each, then egg and bread-crumb 
them, bake them in the oven with but- 
tered paper over them, cut the string 
when done, and before you send them to 
table, draw the skewer, put asparagus 
sauce, tomato, or mushroom in the dish. 



282 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



599.— POTTED YEAL. 

This may be potted as beef, or thuS : — 
pound cold veal in a mortar, work up 
with it in powder mace, pepper, and salt, 
shred the leanest part of tongue very 
finely, or ham is sometimes used ; place 
in a jar or pot a layer of the pounded 
veal, and upon that a layer of the tongue, 
and continue alternately until the pot is 
full, seeing that every layer is well press- 
ed down ; pour over the top melted 
clarified butter. If it is desired, and 
which is frequently done, to marble the 
veal, cut the tongue or ham in square 
dice instead of shredding it, but care 
must be taken that they do not touch 
each other or the eflfect is destroyed. 

600.— LOIN OP VEAL BRAISED. 

This joint generally weighs from 
twelve to fourteen pounds, when off a 
good calf. Have the rib bones carefully 
dkrided with a saw, so as not to hurt the 
fillet, prepare the braising-pan, and pro- 
ceed with the addition of one pint of 
water, but take care not to cover the 
meat, which might happen if your stew- 
pan was too deep, (this would be boil- 
ing instead of braising ;) it will take 
about three hours : be careful to remove 
the fat, as this joint produces a great 
deal. Taste the sauce before serving, 
in case more seasoning is required, 
which might be the case, depending on 
the nature of the veal. A good cook 
should taste all sauces before serving. 



601.— CALF'S-IIEAD RAGOUT. 

Parboil the head, and cut off the meat 
into thin broad pieces, return the bones 
to the water in which it was boiled, with 
a beef-bone or a piece of gravy beef, and 
ham or bacon bones ; add herbs, and, 
making two quarts of good gravy, strain 
it, and put in the meat. When it has 
stewed three-quarters of an hour, add an 



anchovy, a little beaten mace, cayenne 
pepper, two spoonfuls of lemon pickle, 
half an ounce of trufiies and morels, a 
slice or two of lemon, and a glass of 
wine : thicken the gravy with butter and 
flour, adding forcemeat balls fried, paste 
fried, and brain-cakes as a garnish. 

602.— BOILED CALF'S HEAD. 

Boil the head gently until the bone 
will leave the meat easily ; take some fine 
forcemeat, made with ham, egg-balls, and 
small pieces of very nice pickled pork 
previously boiled ; lay them evenly over 
the inside of one half of the head, and 
roll it up ; tie it lightly in a cloth ; put 
it into a stewpan to braise : cut the other 
portion of the head into small pieces ; 
thicken and flavor the stock in which it 
was boiled, and warm it up in it, adding 
forcemeat and egg-balls, brain cukes, and 
fried paste. Place the rolled head in the 
centre of the dish, with the hash round, 
and the brain cakes, fried paste, and 
slices of lemon as garnish. Truffles may 
be added with advantage to any dish com- 
posed of calf's head. 



603.— HASHED VEAL. 

If to he hasJied, from any joint not over- 
done, cut thin slices, remove the skin 
and gristle, put some sliced onions and a 
shalot over the fire with a piece of but- 
ter and some flour ; fry and shake them. 
Put in some veal gravy and a bunch of 
sweet herbs ; simmer ten minutes ; strain 
off" the gravy, and put it to the veal, with 
some parsley chopped small, and a little 
grated lemon peel and imtmeg ; let it 
simmer one minute. 

If to he stewed, then add the yolk of 
two eggs, beaten up with two spoonfuls 
of cream and a very little pepper, and stir 
over the fire one way until it becomes 
thick and smooth ; squeeze a little lemon 
juice in, and serve. 



604— SCOTCH COLLOPS. 

If hrown, cut the coUops thin, beat 
them a little, fry them in butter for 
about two minutes, after having seasoned 
them with a little beaten mace; place 
them in a deep dish as they are fried, 
and cover them with gravy. Put some 
butter into the frying-pan, and allow it 
just to change color. Then strain the 
coUops through a colander from the 
gravy, and fry them quickly ; pour the 
burnt butter from the pan, and put in 
the gravy, adding a little lemon-juice. 
The gravy may be made of the trimmings 
of the veal ; serve it up with forcemeat 
balls. 

If white, cut the collops the size of a 
crown piece, and not much thicker ; but- 
ter the bottom of the stewpan and lay 
the meat piece by piece upon it, having 
shaken a little flour upon the butter ; 
add two blades of mace and a little nut- 
meg. Set the stewpan on the fire, and 
toss it together until the meat is very 
white ; then add half a pint of strong 
veal broth and one quarter of a pint of 
cream ; toss the whole, and when sim- 
mered enough, let them just boil ; add a 
little lemon juice, some forcemeat balls, 
and either oysters or mushrooms, which 
must both be very white; if necessary, 
thicken the sauce with the yolk of eggs, 
but do not let it boil afterwards. 

605.— TO DEES8 COLLOPS QUICKLY. 

Cut them as thin as paper with a very 
sharp knife, and in small bits. Throw 
the skin, and any odd bits of the veal, 
into a little water, with a dust of pepper 
and salt ; set them on the fire while you 
beat the collops ; and dip them into a 
seasoning of herbs, bread, pepper, . salt, 
and a scrape of nutmeg, but first wet 
them in egg. Then put a bit of butter 
into a frying-pan, and give the collops a 
very quick fry ; for as they are so thin, 
two minutes will do them on both sides : 



put them into a hot dish before the fire ; 
then strain and thicken the gravy. 

O)- : — Cut the collops thin; flatten 
them with a beater ; have a large dish, 
dredge it with flour, and sprinkle a little 
black pepper over it ; as the collops are 
flattened, lay them in the dish ; put a 
piece of butter in a frying-pan, and when 
it is melted and hot, lay in the collops ; 
do them quickly ; when hghtly browned, 
dish them up, and serve with a mushroom 
sauce. 

606.— CALF'S HEAD CUEET 

Is usually made with the remains left 
from a previous dinner ; if about two 
pounds of meat remaining upon the bone, 
cut it whilst cold into thin slices, then 
cut two onions and two apples into small 
dice, which put into a stewpan with an 
ounce of butter and half a clove of garlic 
cut in shces, stir with a wooden spoon 
*over the fire until sauteed nice and 
brown, when add a table-spoonful of 
curry powder, half one of flour, mix well, 
then pour in a pint of broth, add a little 
salt, and boil twenty minutes, keeping it 
well stirred ; then put in the calf's head, 
and let it remain upon the fire until quite 
hot through ; add the juice of half a 
lemon, which stir in very gently without 
breaking the meat, dress it upon a dish, 
and serve with rice separately. Curry 
sauce may be passed through a sieve pre- 
viously to putting the head in. 

607.— VEAL CUTLETS EN PAPILLOTE. 

Prepare, half-fry, — and put them in a 
pie-dish and pour the sauce over, and let 
them remain until cold ; then cut a sheet 
of foolscap paper in the shape of a heart 
and oil or butter it ; lay one of the cutlets 
with a little of the sauce on one half of 
the paper, turn the other half over, then 
turn and plait the edges of the paper 
over, beginning at the top of the heart 
and finishing with an extra twist at the 



284 



THE PRACTICAL H0U8EKEEPEK. 



bottom, which will cause the sauce to 
remain in it ; broil slowly on a gridiron 
for twenty minutes on a very slow fire, 
or place it in the oven for that time, and 
serve. 

608— CUTLETS AND EICE. 

Boil a cupful of rice in milk until quite 
soft, then pound it in a mortar with a 
little salt and some white pepper; pound 
aiso separately equal parts of cold veal 
or chicken : mix them together with yolk 
of egg, form them into cutlets, brush 
over with yolk of egg, and fry them ; 
send them up with a very piquant sauce, 
made of good stock, thickened and flavor- 
ed with lemon juice, lemon pickle, or 
Harvey's sauce. The cutlets may be sent 
to table covered with the small pick'.ed 
mushrooms. 

609.— CUTLETS AND CELEET. 

t 
The cutlets may be cut from the best 
part of the neck, taking care in removing 
the meat from the bones to cut it in a 
good shape ; make gravy of the bones ; 
stewing them with three or four heads 
of celery cut and scalded, a little salt, 
pepper, and stewed onion : strain the 
gravy, returning the celery into it ; thick- 
en it with butter and flour, and pour it 
boiling hot upon the cutlets. Stew them 
till they are quite tender, and garnish 
with lemon and small forcemeat balls 
fried. 

610.— A LITALIENNE. 

Chop a quantity of sweet herbs, pars- 
ley being predominant; melt a little 
butter on the fire and then warm the 
herbs in it ; cut the cutlets into handsome 
shapes, bruslt them with the yolk of an 
egg, then lay on the butter and herbs 
with a knife, and cover them well with 
bread-crumbs ; this process should be re- 
peated ; fry them of a fine brown ; if 
glazed, they must be put between papers 



to press all the grease out. then brush 
them over with the glaze, and send them 
to table. Serve with Italian sauce. 

611.— A LA IIOLLANDAISE. 

Cut some large cutlets from a fillet of 
veal, beat themi with a rolling-pin, then 
dip them into batter made very rich with 
egg. Make a fine forcemeiit with pound- 
ed ham. chopped oysters, &c.. lay it upon 
the cutlets, ro!l them up, dip them again 
in egg-batter, roll them in bread-crumbs, 
and tie them up ; roa>t them upon skew- 
ers or in a Dutch oven; chop .ind pound 
the trimmings of the vea!, add them to 
the oysters and ham forcemeat with two 
raw eggs, make it into balls and fry 
them ; have some stock ready and stew 
it with an anchovy, a shalot, some white 
pepper and salt ; strain, and thicken it with 
butter, add the juice of one-half a lemon 
and a glass of white wine ; give it one 
boil and pour it into the dish, with the 
rolled cutlets in the centre and the balls 
round them. 

612.— A LA HOLLANDAISE, WITH WHITE 
SAUCE. 

Cut thin slices of undressed veal, hack 
them with the back of a knife each way, 
dip them in eggs and bread-crumbs, with 
a little chopped parsley ; fry them in but- 
ter, lay them on a sieve as they are done, 
and serve them with white sauce as for 
fricassee. 

613.— FARCIES OF VEAL. 

Chop off the thick bone of a small neck 
of veal to the end of the fifth rib ; divide 
the cutlets and with a broad knife beat 
the meat of each flat, and cover it with 
forcemeat of lean veal, beef suet, parsley, 
a small bit of garlic, a little salt, mace, 
and pepper. Then roll the meat round 
the bone, the end of which leave out at 
one extremity, put over a thin slice of fat 
bacon, and, having stuffed in the remain- 



VEAL. 



286 



der of the forcemeat at the ends of the 
roll, bind up with twine. At the bottom 
of a small stewpan lay slices of turnip, 
onion, three inches of celery, and two 
large carrots cut lengthways, and the 
steaks over : add as much water, or beef 
broth, as shall half cover them ; set the 
pan on a moderate stove, and some wood 
embers on the lid ; simmer slowly for 
two hours, then remove the twine, and 
placing the bones upwards, leaning on 
each other, strain the gravy over them. 

Or : — Take cutlets from the chump 
end of a loin of veal ; beat them well ; 
cover them with slices of bacon, then 
with a fine forcemeat ; roll them round : 
tie them into shape ; then dip them in the 
yolks of eggs and the raspings of bread ; 
roast them, basting well with butter ; 
then put them into a sauce thickened 
with mushrooms ; squeeze lemon juice 
over them ; let them stew till very tender, 
and serve them up. 

614— KOLLED VEAL. 

The breast is the best for this purpose. 
Bone a piece of the breast, and lay a 
forcemeat over it of herbs, bread, an an- 
chovy, a spoonful or two of scraped ham, 
a very little mace, white pepper, and 
chopped cliives; then roll, bind it up 
tight, and stew it in water or weak 
broth with the bones, some carrots, 
onions, turnips, and a bay-leaf. Let 
the color be preserved, and serve it in 
veal gravy, or fricassee sauce, with mush- 
rooms and artichoke bottoms. 

Or : — Put the breast into a stewpan 
with just water enough to cover it, an 
onion, a stick of celer}'-, and a bundle of 
sweet herbs ; let it stew very gently, 
adding more water as it stews, until it is 
tender ; then take out the bones, and re- 
move the skin ; return the bones into 
the liquor, which will be a fine jelly, and 
serve as the sauce for several dishes. 
Cover the veal with a fine forcemeat, 



season it well, add egg-balls, and roll it 
up, securing it with tape. Put it into a 
stewpan with the fat procured from pork 
chops, a slice or two of fat bacon or a 
lump of butter, and a teacupful of the 
liquor it was stewed in ; shake the stew- 
pan about until the fat has melted, and 
turn the veal in it, that it may be all 
equally done, adding an onion and an- 
other bunch of herbs ; let it braise one 
and a half or two hours, then strain the 
gravy, and thicken it ; garnish with 
forcemeat-balls, egg-balls, and fried paste 
cut in shapes. Peeled mushrooms may 
be given by way of variety. When 
well done, this is an excellent dish. 

615.— CALF'S LIVEE.— (English way.) 

Cut the liver into thin slices, dip them 
in flour, and put it in a saute or frying- 
pan in which some slices ot bacon have 
been previously cooked, with sufiicient 
fat left in it ; saute the liver until quite 
brown and rather crisp, when take out 
and place it upon a dish with the bacon, 
then dredge a spoonful of flour in the 
pan, or enough to absorb all the fat in it, 
then add a little broth or water so as to 
make it a thinnish sauce, season it, and 
add two spoonfuls of Harvey's sauce or 
mushroom ketchup. If the above is nice- 
ly done, and the pieces cut the size of 
cutlets, it will make a nice entree for an 
ordinary dinner. It should be served 
immediately, and very hot. 

616. -STEWED CALF'S LIVER.— (Soy er's.) 

Choose a nice fat one, rather white in 
color, lard it through with bacon, put 
one-quarter of a pound of butter in a 
pan ; when melted, add a table-spoonful 
of flour, keep stirring until a nice yellow 
color, then put in the whole of the liver ; 
turn round now and then until it is a 
little firm, then add a pint of broth or 
water, and a glass of any kind of wine, 
a bouquet of parsley, thyme, bay-leaves, 



286 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



a little salt, pepper, and sugar, thirty- 
button onions ; simmer one hour ; take 
the fat off and the bouquet out, dish the 
liver with the onions around it, reduce 
the sauce, so that it adheres lightly to 
the back of the spoon, sauce over and 
serve. Any^ vegetables may be used, as 
carrots, turnips, peas, haricots ; and if a 
Uttle gelatine or isinglass is added to the 
sauce, and the liver v?ith the sauce only 
put into a round basin and pressed down 
and left until cold, it will make a nice 
dish for supper, lunch or breakfast. If 
required to be rewarmed, cut into slices, 
put it in the pan with a drop of water 
added to the gravy. 

617.— CALF'S LIVER FRIED. 

Cut in slices, and fry it in good beef- 
dripping or butter ; let the pan be half 
full, and put the liver in when it boils, 
which is when it has done hissing; 
have some rashers of toasted bacon, and 
lay round it, with some parsley crisped 
liefore the hre ; always lay the bacon 
in boiling water before it is either broil- 
ed, fried, or toasted, as it takes out the 
salt, and makes it tender. Sauce — plain 
melted butter, a little poured over the 
liver, the rest in the sauce-boat. 

618.— CALF'S HEAD CHEESE. 

Boil the head until the bones will come 
out, then put the head, tongue, and 
brains, into a mould with spices and 
parsley chopped fine until the mould is 
quite full ; put a plate and a weight over 
it, and when cold turn out. Serve with 
parsley, and slices of rolled ham, placed 
round the dish. 

619.— FRICANDEAU OF VEAL. 

In France the fricandeau is not unfre- 

quently larded in the interior as well as 

■ the outside, by having pieces of the size 

of a little finger cut off the meat with 



taster, and then refilled with pledgets of 
bacon, or " lardons. " The meat is also 
very generally served upon spinach, 
dressed with cream or sorrel. 

The meat, being cut into a handsome 
shape, should be larded, and put into a 
stewpan of small size, with just suffi- 
cient water, or veal broth, to cover it, 
and there allowed to simmer gently over 
a slow fire for about three hours: or 
until it has become so tender as to be cut 
with a fish-slice. The gravy is then sea- 
soned at pleasure, but most generally 
made into white sauce. 

Or : — Cut a nice piece from the fillet, 
lard it all over as thickly as possible ; 
put it into a stewpan with a few slices of 
fat bacon, some trimmings of veal, a cai'- 
rot, turnip, and a head of celery, a few 
allspice, two blades of mace, and four 
baj'-leaves ; let it stew very gentlj^, until 
thoroughly done, boil the gravy down to 
a glaze, cover the veal with it, and 
serve it upon a puree of sorrel. Grena- 
dines of veal are cooked in the same 
way, only made of smaller pieces, four 
for a dish. 

620.— FRICANDELS. 

Take three pounds of the best end of 
a loin of veal, chop the fat and lean to- 
gether very fine ; then soak a French 
roll in some milk ; beat three eggs ; add 
pepper, salt, nutmeg, and mace. Make 
the mixture up about the size, and some- 
what in the shape, of a chicken ; rub it 
over with egg and bread-crumbs, fry 
until it is brown, pour off the fat, boil 
water in the pan, and stew the fricandels 
in this gravy ; two will make a hand- 
some dish. Thicken the gravy before it 
is sent to table. 

621.— MIROTON OF VEAL. 

Chop very fine some cold dressed veal 
and ham or bacon ; mix it with a slice 



an instrument something like a cheese- | of crumb of bread soaked in milk, two 



VEAL. 



287 



onions chopped and browned, a little salt, 
pepper, and a little cream. Put all these 
ingredients into a stewpan until they are 
hot, and are well mixed together ; then 
add one or two eggs according to the 
quantity, butter a mould, put in the 
whole, and bake it in an oven until it is 
brown ; turn out of the mould, and serve 
with fresh gravy. 

622.— A GALANTINE. 

Take out the long bones from a breast 
of veal, and beat the veal for four min- 
utes with the flat part of a hand-chopper, 
in order that it may roll easily. Spread 
it on the table, and brush it over thickly 
with the yolk of an egg, and then sprin- 
kle it with chopped herbs ; season with 
pepper, salt, and pounded mace ; make 
two omelettes, one of the yolk and one 
of the white of egg ; cut them in strips ; 
lay them upon the veal, with layers of 
pounded ham or farce between ; cut some 
pickled cucumbers or mushrooms into 
small pieces, with some sweet herbs well 
seasoned ; strew them over the surface, 
then roll up the veal very tightly, tie it 
in a cloth, and let it stew gently for six 
hours ; then put a heavy weight upon it, 
and let it stand two days before it is cut. 
Serve it in slices, with savory jelly ; any 
kind of boned game or fowl may be add- 
ed. It requires to be highly seasoned. 

623.— VEAL OLIVES. 
Cut long thin shces ; beat them, lay 
them on thin slices of fat bacon, and over 
these a layer of force meat seasoned high 
with some shred shalot and cayenne. 
Roll them tight, about the size of two 
fingers, but not more than two or three 
inches long ; fasten them round with a 
small skewer, Vub egg over them, and fry 
of a light brown. Serve with brown 
gi'avy, in which boil some mushrooms, 
pickled or fresh. Garnish with balls 
fried. 



624. -HARICOT OF VEAL. 

Take the best end of a small neck; 
cut the bones short, but leave it whole ; 
then put it into a stewpan just covered 
with brown gravy ; and when it is nearly 
done, have ready a pint of boiled peas, 
four cucumbers pared and sliced, two 
cabbage-lettuces cut into quarters, and 
half a pint of carrots and turnips cut in 
shapes, all stewed in a little good broth ; 
put them to the veal, and let them sim- 
mer ten minutes. When the veal is in 
the dish, pour the sauce and vegetables 
over it, and lay the lettuce with force- 
meat-balls round it. 

625.— VEAL CURET. 

Cut up about two pounds of lean veal 
into small .square pieces, half the size of 
walnuts; then put a large onion cut into 
small dice, in a stewpan, with a clove or 
garlic and one apple cut into slices, and 
one ounce of butter ; keep them stirred 
over a moderate fire, until lightly brown- 
ed, when stir in a good table-spoonful of 
mild curry powder, half a one of flour, 
mix well, then add a pint of water, let it 
just boil up, put in the veal, which stir 
round two or three times, to mix with 
the curry, and put the stewpan over a 
slow fire, or in a warm oven for an hour 
and a-half ; when done (which you may 
ascertain by pressing a piece between the 
finger and' thumb, if done it would be 
quite tender and separate.) add the juice 
of a lemon and a little salt, stir the whole 
round three or four times very gently, 
to mix, and turn it out upon your dish ; 
serve with rice separately. 

Should you require a veal curry made 
in less time, the better plan would be to 
saute the veal in butter previously, then 
putting it with its own gravy to the cur- 
r}', and boiling the whole gently a quar- 
ter of an hour. 

To make a veal curry with curry paste, 
saute the veal in butter ; when becoming 



288 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



slightly browned, add a good table-spoon- 
ful of the paste, with half ^ a pint of wa- 
ter ; leave it to stew about half an hour, 
when it will be ready to serve. 

Beef, mutton, lamb, and pork curries 
are made precisely the same as directed 
for veal curries. 

626.— CALF'S HEART BAKED. 

Clean and stuff as for roasted beef hearty 
then bake instead of roasting, and after- 
wards serve with rich gravy or liver 
sauce. 

627.-CALVES' FEET. 

Stewed. — When properly cleaned, rub 
the feet over with pepper, a very little 
salt, a little ground ginger, and mace; 
cut the feet into moderately sized pieces, 
and put them into a stewpan with a lit- 
tie shalot, and a beefsteak also cut into 
pieces. Cover all with cold water, and 
let them simmer together for three hours. 
When quite tender, take them off the fire ; 
strain the gravy through a sieve. The 
next day when cold, take off all the fat ; 
boil a small quantity of saffron in cream, 
and a little cayenne pepper ; mix it with 
the gravy, and warm the whole without 
boiling ; one foot and one pound of steak 
will make a dish. 

Fricasseed. — Boil the feet in water un- 
til the bones will come out, witli an onion 
and a bunch of sweet herbs ; take the 
bones out, and when the meat is cold stuff 
it nicely with a very finey«?*ce, or force- 
meat ; make the pieces up into handsome 
shapes of an equal size ; then take some 
of the stock in which the feet were boil- 
ed, removing the fat, and straining it 
when melted ; make this into thick white 
sauce with cream and roux ; warm up 
the calves' feet in it, and send it to table 
either plain or with a quantity of aspara- 
gus tops, previously boiled, and cut into 
small pieces. 

Or : — Boil tender two feet in a shallow 



pan. observing not to break them ; throw 
them into cold water for an hour ; divide 
and lay them in a little weak veal broth, 
and simmer them half an hour, with a 
blade of mace and a bit of lemon peel, 
which take out when you add half a tea- 
cupful of ci'eam, and a bit of flour and 
butter. 

Fried. — Take calves' feet which have 
been boiled until very tender ; remove 
the bones ; let them get cold ; cut them 
into well-shaped pieces ; season them 
with white pepper and salt ; dip them 
into buttci', fry them, and serve them up 
with a sharp sauce or garnish of pickles. 

Calves' feet may also be plainly boiled, 
and served with parsley and butter, or 
eaten cold with oil and vinegar. 

628.— QUEUES DE VEAU. 

Having nicely cleaned and soaked four 
calves' tails, cut off the small ends, and 
blanch them ; dry, flour, and fry them a 
fine brown in butter ; drain the fat from 
them, and having ready a pint of weak 
broth, with a bunch of sweet herbs, chi- 
bols, two bay -leaves, half a pint of mush- 
rooms, pepper and salt, boiled up and 
skimmed ; wipe the sides of the casserole, 
put the tails in, and simmer very slowly 
until they are quite tender ; keep them> 
hot while the gravy is strained, and boil- 
ed to a glaze, to cover them. If you 
have no mushrooms, mix a little of the 
powder into gravy just before serving ; 
have ready small onions, and peel to one 
size to send up in the dish. 

629.— CALVES' EAES STUFFED. 
The hair being scalded off the ears, 
after they have been cut quite close to 
the head, scald and clean them as well as 
possible ; boil them quite tender, and 
blanch them in cold water. Observe that 
the gristle next the head be cut so 
smooth as to allow the ears to stand up- 
right ; they may be boiled in white gi-avy 



VEAL. 



289 



instead of water, which will make them 
richer. When become cold, fill up the 
cavity with a fine stuffing of calf's livqr, 
fat bacon, grated ham, bread soaked in 
cream or gravy, herbs, an unbeaten egg, 
a little salt, and a small piece of mace ; 
rub egg over the ears and stuffing, dip in 
bread-crumbs, and fry of a beautiful 
light brown. Serve in brown or white 
gravy, or tomato-sauce. If the ear be 
large, one will be sufficient for a corner 
dish. 

Or : — When prepared as above, boil 
them quite tender in gravy, and serve 
them in chervil-sauce ; or else boil cher- 
vil to a mash, put to it melted butter, 
pass it through a sieve, and add to it 
white sauce, or use the latter solely, in 
which case put a little mushroom-pow- 
der into it ; the same forcemeat may be 
used, or the ears may be served without. 
They likewise eat well, cut into slices, 
served in white or brown gravy. In the 
latter case, fry them "before stewing in 
gravy. 



630.— CALVES' BEAINS. 
Remove all the large fibres and .skin ; 
soak them in warm water for four hours ; 
blanch them for ten minutes in boiling 
water, with a little salt and vinegar in it ; 
then soak them three hours in lemon- 
juice in which a bit of chervil has been 
steeped ; dry them well, dip them in bat- 
ter, and fry them. Make hot a ladleful 
of glaze, some extremely small onions 
browned in butter, artichoke bottoms 
divided in half, and some mushroom- 
buttons, and serve round the brains ; or, 
after preparing as above, serve in a rich 
white acidulated sauce, with lemon-juice 
or tomato-sauce. 

Or: — Blanch the brains, and beat 
them up with an egg, pepper, and salt, a 
small quantity of chopped parsley, and a 
piece of butter. Make them into small 



cakes, put them into a small frying-pan, 
and fry them. 

Or : — Prepare them as above ; wet 
with egg. and sprinkle crumbs, salt, pep- 
per, and chopped parsley, and finish 
dressing in a Dutch oven. Serve with 
melted butter, with or without a little 
mushroom-ketchup. 

631.— CROQUETTES OF BRAINS. 
Take calf's brains, blanch, and beat 
them up with one or two chopped sage- 
leaves, a little pepper and salt, a few 
bread-crumbs soaked in milk, and an egg 
beaten; roll them into balls, and fry 
them. 

632.— CERVELLES DE VEAU AU MARI- 
NADE. 

Cut a carrot, a turnip, and an onion 
into pieces; let them stew in a little 
butter ; then add a bundle of sweet herbs, 
and pour over them a pint of vinegar 
and water in equal parts ; then strain the 
liquor, and pour it over calves' brains 
cleaned and blanched ; let them stew in 
it till they are firm, then fr}^ them in 
butter, and serve up with crisped parsley. 

633.— CERVELLES DE VEAU FRICASSEES. 

Having cleaned and blanched the 
brains, render them white and firm by 
squeezing lemon-juice over them ; then 
put them into a stewpan with a piece of 
butter ; stew slowly, that they may not 
brown ; dredge in a small quantity of 
flour ; add a bunch of parsley, and one of 
chives ; moisten with clear veal broth ; let 
the brains stew until they are firm ; then 
send them up in the sauce, thickened 
with a little cream and flour and butter. 

634— FRIED LIVER AND BACON, ETC. 

Cut the liver rather thin, say about 
half an inch thick, but first soak it in 
warm water about one hour; chop a 
quantity of parsley, season it with pep- 
per, and lay it thick upon the hver; cut 



290 



THE PRACTICAI. HOUSEKEEPER. 



slices of bacon, and fry both together, 
but put the bacon first into the pan; add 
a little lemon-pickle to the gravy made 
by pouring the fat out of the pan, flour- 
ing, and adding boiling water. 

Or : — Cut the liver in handsome pieces, 
lard them very nicely, and chop some 
parsley and spread it over tl*i surface 
with a little pepper and salt ; put a small 
piece of butter well mixed with flour in 
the bottom of a stewpan, and put in the 
liver, and allow it to stew gently in its 
own juices until it is done enough. 

635.— TO DEE88 LIVER AND LIGHTS. 

Half boil an equal quantity of each ; 
then cut them- into a middling-size mince; 
put to it a spoonful or two of the water 
they were boiled in, a bit of butter, flour, 
salt, and pepper; simmer ten minutes, 
and serve hot. 

636.— TO DEESS CALF'S HEART. 

Stuff and roast the same as beef heart ; 
or, being sliced and seasoned, make it 
into a pudding as directed for steak or 
kidney pudding. It may be either roast- 
ed or baked, but in either way should be 
well basted, stuffed with forcemeat as 
for veal, but made rather more savory, 
and served up in the same manner as 
beef heart. 

When tlie Tcidney is cut from the loin 
and dressed separately, chop the kidney, 
with some of the fat ; likewise a little 
leek or onion, pepper, and salt. Veal 
forcemeat may also be used, but it rather 
weakens the pungency of the seasoning. 
Roll it up with an egg into balls, and 
fry them. 

6.3T.-SWEETBREADS. 

For every mode of dressing, sweet- 
breads should be prepared by blanching, 
or rather parboiling them. 

Thej may be larded and braised ; and, 



being of themselves rather insipid, they 
will be improved by a relishing sauce, 
anfi by a large quantity of herbs in the 
braise. Slices of lemon put upon the 
sweetbreads while braising, will heighten 
the flavor and keep them white, which 
is very desirable when sent to table with 
white sauce. Stuffed with oysters, they 
make a very good vol-cm-vent. 

63S.— SWEETBREADS A LA DAUBE. 

Blanch two or three of the largest 
sweetbreads ; lard them ; put them into 
a stewpan. with some good veal gravy, 
a little browning, and the juice of half 
a lemon ; stew them till quite tender, 
and just before serving thicken with 
flour and butter ; glaze them ; serve 
with their gravy, with bunches of boiled 
celery round the dish. 

639.— SWEETBREADS STEWED. 

After blanching, stuff them with a 
forcemeat of fowl, fat and lean bacon, an 
anchovy, nutmeg, lemon-peel, parsley, 
and a very little cayenne and thyme; 
when well mixed, add the yolks of two 
eggs, and fill the sweetbreads. Fasten 
them together with splinter-skewers, and 
lay them in a pan, with slices of veal 
over, and bacon under them ; season 
with pepper and salt, mace, cloves, herbs, 
and sliced onion; cover close over the 
fire ten minutes, then add a quart of 
broth, and stew gently two hours ; take 
out the sweetbreads, strain and skim the 
broth, and boil it to half a pint ; warm 
the sweetbreads in it, and serve with 
lemon round. 

610. -FRIED. 
Cut them in slices about three-quar- 
ters of an inch thick, dry and flour, egg 
them, and dip them in fine bread-crumbs ; 
fry them of a light brown ; serve on 
spinach, endive, or sorrel ; or cut 8on\e 



VEAL. 



291 



toasted bread, dish them on it, and serve 
them with a sauce piquante. 

For an invalid, boil them we.ll, cover 
them with bread-crumbs, a little pepper 
and salt, with a small bit of butter ; 
brown them lightly with a salamander. 

641— BOASTED. 

Blanch, dry, egg and bread-crun-b 
them ; pass a small skewer through each ; 
tie on a spit ; roast gently ; baste \\ ith 
fresh butter ; serve nicely frothed, and a 
inushroon\ sauce under them. 

642.— SWEETBREADS FEICASSEED "WHITE. 

Blanch and slice them ; thicken some 
veal gravy with flour and butter mixed ; 
a little cream ; a little mushroom pow- 
der, and add white pepper, nutmeg, and 
grated lemon-peel; stew these ingredi- 
ents together a little, then simmer the 
sweetbreads twenty minutes. When 
taken off the fire, add a little salt and 
lemon-peel ; stir well, and serve. 

643.— IF FEICASSEED BEOWN, 

Cut them about the size of a walnut, 
flour, and fry them of a fine brown ; 
pour to them a good beef gravy, season- 
ed with salt, pepper, caj^enue. and all- 
spice ; simmer till tender ; thicken with 
flour and butter. Morels, truffles, and 
mushrooms may be added, and mush- 
room ketchup. 

644.— CEOQUETTES. 

Take two sweetbreads or half a pound 
of roast veal, one onion chopped fine, 
mixed with a small piece of butter, one 
egg, and a little cream ; season with 
white pepper, cayenne, and salt. This 
will make eight or nine croquettes. Roll 
them in egg and then in biead-crumbs ; 
fry them in lard a nice brown color; 
strew them in a circle round the dish, and 
serve fried parsley in the centre. 



Cold veal chopped, and stewed in a 
little gravy, and when cold made up as 
above, makes excellent rissoles. 

645.— TO EOAST SWEETBREADS. 

Sweetbreads should be soaked in warm 
water, and then blanched by being 
thrown into boiling water, boiled for a 
few minutes, and then put into cold 
water. They may then be larded and 
roasted or fried, and afterwards stewed 
in butter with crumbs of iiread. Sweet- 
breads may also be larJed and braised, 
and being of themselves rather insipid, 
they will be improved by a relishing 
sauce and by a large quantity of herbs 
in the brai.se. Skin.s of lemon put upon 
the sweetbreads while braising will 
heighten the flavor, and keep them white ; 
which is very desirable when sent to 
table with white sauce. The usual sauce 
with which they arc served is butter and 
mushroom ketchup. They may be roast- 
ed in a Dutch oven. 

646.— CERVELLE DE YEAU 1 LA MAITEE 
D' HOTEL. 

Let them be prepared. Cut some bread 
into the shape of cocks'-combs. which 
fry in butter till of a fine color. Dish 
them between each half of the brains, 
which you have divided, and cover the 
brains over with a ma tre d' hotel sauce, 
two spoonfuls of bechamel, a small bit of 
fresh butter, some pai'sley chopped fine, 
the juice of half a lemon, and let it be 
well seasoned. 

64T.— TONGUE, ETC. 

Neat's tongue should he boiled full 
three hours. If it has been in salt long, 
it is well to soak it over night in cold 
water. Put it to boil when the water is 
cold. If you boil it in a small pot, it is 
well to change the watei-, when it has 
boiled an hour and a half; the fresh 
water should boil before the half-cooked 



292 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



tongue is put in again. It is nicer for 
being kept in a cool place a day or two 
after being boiled. Nearly the same 
rules apply to salt beef. A six pound 
piece of corned beef should boil full three 
hours ; and salt beef should be boiled 
four hours. 

648.— CROQUETS OF SWEETBREAD. 
(French Receipt.) 

Take such sweetbreads as have already 
been served, cut them into as small dice 
as possible. Have some good veloute 
boiled down ready. Throw the dice of 
sweetbreads into the veloute, and give 
them a boil, that they may taste of the 
sauce. Then lay them on a plate to 
cool. When cold, roll them into any 
shape you like, round, oval, or long. Of 
all things avoid giving them the shape of 
pears, as some persons do. for in that 
case they must be more handled, without 
at all improving the quahty. Serve up 
with parsley, fried green, in the middle. 
If you have some mushrooms left in the 
larder, cut some likewise in dice, and 
mix them with the croquets. 

649.— ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU AUX 
POIS, OR SCOLLOPS OF SWEETBREADS 
WITH GREEN PEAS. 

Take four fine sweetbreads, let them 
disgorge, and blanch them thorough^. 
Next, cut them into scollops, as large as 
possible. Mark them in a saute-pan, or 
frj'ingpan, with melted butter and a little 
salt. A quarter of an hour before you 
send up, fry them lightly over a stove, 
with a clear fire; turn them round, and 
when done, drain the butter, and put a 
little glaze into the pan. Keep stining 
the sweetbreads in the glaze ; dish them 
miroton way, and send up the peas in 
the middle. 

When you have sweetbreads left at 
table, cut them into scollops, make them 
hot in a little light glaze, and after hav- 



ing dished them miroton way, mask them 
with the peas. Scollops of sweetbreads 
are easier to dress when you put them 
between a slice of fried bread cut round, 
and the green peas in the middle ; with- 
out the fried bread they do not keep 
the shape in which you dish them. 

650.-FOIE DE VEAU A LA PO^LE, OR SCOL- 
LOPS OF CALF'S LIVER WITH FINE 
HERBS. 

Take a nice calf's liver as white as 
possil)le, cut it into slices of a good 
and equal shape. Dip them in the 
flour, and fry them in a black fryingpan, 
of a nice color, with a little butter. 
When they are done, put them in a dish, 
and take some fine herbs which you have 
previously chopped fine, such as pars- 
ley, shalots, mushrooms, &c. Stew them 
slowly on the fire with a little butter, 
and when the herbs are sufficiently done 
add a teaspoonful of fiour, and moisten 
with gravy, if you have any, or with 
water, and add a small bit of glaze. 
When done, put the liver in the sauce, 
which warm, but do not allow it to boil ; 
add a little salt, pepper, lemon, and serve 
very hot. 

This is again a common dish, yet it is 
very palatable. You may put the liver 
in the sauce ; but mind that it does not 
boil. It is a dish for a breakfast a la 
fourchette. 

651.— CALF'S HEAD. 
Let the head be thoroughly cleaned, the 
brains and tongue be taken out, boil it in 
a cloth to keep it white, (it is as well to 
soak the head for two or three hours pre- 
viously to boiling, it helps to improve 
the color,) wash, soak, and blanch the 
brains, then boil them, scald some sage, 
chop it fine, add pepper, salt, and a little 
milk, mix it with the brains ; the tongue, 
which should be soaked in salt and 
water for twenty-four hours, should be 



VEAL. 



293 



boiled, peeled, and served on a separate 
dish. The head should boil until tender, 
and if intended to be sent to table plainly, 
should be served as taken up. with melt- 
ed butter and parslej^ ; if otherwise, when 
the head is boiled sufficiently tender, 
take it up, spread over a coat of the yolk 
of egg well beaten up, powder with bread- 
crumbs, and brown before the fire in a 
Dutch or American oven. 

652.— CALFS HEAD BAKED. 
Butter the head, and powder it with a 
seasoning composed of bread-crumbs, very 
fine, a few sweet herbs and sage, chopped 
very fine, cayenne, white pepper, and salt. 
Divide the brains into several pieces, not 
too small, sprinkle them with bread- 
crumbs, and lay them in the dish with 
the head. Stick a quantity of small 
pieces of butter over the head and in the 
eyes, throw crumbs over all, pour in 
three parts of the dish full of water, and 
bake in a fast oven two hours. 

653.— CHITTEELINGS, 

Or calf's tripe, stewed tender and serv- 
ed on toast with a sauce of onions boiled 
and mashed in milk, with butter added, 
form a nice dish. They are eaten with 
pepper and vinegar. 

654.— HASHED CALF'S HEAD. 
Put into a stewpan one table-spoonful 
of chopped onions, and three of vinegar, 
take the remains of the head which cut 
into slices, place them on a dish, add a 
table-spoonful of flour to them, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, a quarter of one of 
pepper, put the stewpan on the fire to 
boil for one minute, add the pieces of 
head, and moisten with half a pint of broth, 
water, or milk; let it simmer for ten 
minutes and serve on toast or plain, or 
with sippets round. The addition of a 
few gherkins sliced or any mixed pickle 
is an improvement. A little thj-me or 
b?y-leaf, if at hand, may be added. If 
19 



with water or gravy a little coloring will 
improve the appearance. This receipt is 
for one pound of meat. It may also be 
warmed in curry-sauce, and is excellent. 

655.— CALF'S HEAD A LA TOETUE. 

Bone a calf's head whole ; after being 
well scalded and cleaned cut off the ears, 
take out the tongue, cut the gristle and 
bones from the tongne ; prepare a good 
forcemeat, add some chopped truffles into 
it, and some mushrooms ; lay the head on 
a clean cloth on the dresser, spread it 
thickly over with the forcemeat, blanch 
and take off the skin of the tongue ; cut 
each ear in half longways, place them in 
different parts on the forcemeat and the 
tongue in the middle, lap it over keeping 
it high in the middle, tie the ends, and 
brace it all over tightly with some loose 
string, as by doing so it will leave all the 
marks appearing when glazed like the 
back shell of turtle, then tie it up in a 
cloth ; it will take some hours to boil ; 
when done, which will be in your second 
stock, take it up and take off the cloth, 
put it upon the dish, dry it and glaze it 
several times ; have ready cut from the 
crumb of bread the form of a turtle's 
head and the four fins, fry them a nice 
light brown, and glaze them with the 
head, placing them to the head on the 
dish, as to look like a turtle crawUng, for 
the eyes use whites of hard boiled eggs ; 
a sauce you will find among the sauces. 

656.— CALF'S HEAD. 
Choose one thick and fat, but not too 
large ; soak for ten minutes in lukewarm 
water, then well powder with rosin, have 
plenty of scalding water ready, dip in 
the head, holding it by the ear, scrape 
the hair off with the back of a knife, 
which will come off easily if properly 
scraped, without scratching the cheek ; 
when perfectly clean, take the eyes out, 
saw it in two lengthwise, through the 
skull, without spoiling the brain, which 



294 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



take carefully out, and put to disgorge for 
a few hours in lukewarm \yater ; pull the 
tongue out, break the jaw-bone, and re- 
move the part which contains the teeth, 
put the head into plenty of water to dis- 
gorge for one hour ; make the following 
stock and boil for about two hours and a 
half, and it will be ready to serve. 

The stock is made by putting into a 
braising-pan two carrots, three onions, a 
quarter of a pound of butter, six cloves, 
a bouquet of parsley, thyme, and bay- 
leaves ; set it on the fii'e for about twenty 
minutes, keep stirring it round, then add 
a pint of water, and when warm mix a 
quarter of a pound of flour, add a gallon 
of water, one lemon in slices, and a quar- 
ter of a pound of salt, then lay the head 
in ; take care it is well covered, or the 
part exposed will turn dark; simmer 
gently till tender. 

65T.— EIS DE VEAU EN CAISSES. 

Blanch three sweetbreads, and simmer 
in a strong, well flavored gravy till quite 
done. Have ready three round pieces of 
white paper oiled, and lay them thereon ; 
having left them lightly wetted with 
gravy, sprinkle over them the finest 
crumbs or raspings of bread, pepper, salt, 
and a very little nutmeg ; do them slowly 
on a gridiron, and serve in the cases. 
Any of the vegetable sauces may be 
served with them. 

65S.— GARNITURE EN RAGOUT. 

Having prepared and blanched sweet- 
breads of veal or lamb (house-lamb is the 
best), liver of lamb and rabbits, truffles 
and mushrooms, simmer gently half an 
hour in rich veal Ijroth ; then divide the 
several articles into fit bits for helping, 
and stew the whole until very tender. 
If, when finished, the gravy wants con- 
sistence, boil up in it a good piece of 
butter rolled in flour. Season it fifteen 
minutes before serving, with white pep- 



per, salt, and nutmeg only. Have ready 
and hot, forcemeat balls, in which finely 
scraped ham, beef suet, the breast of a 
fowl, or cold veal, are the principal ingre- 
dients. 

It may be served in a tureen as soup, 
or in an ornamented crust previously 
baked. If to be white, beat as man}^ 
yolks of eggs as the quantity nray re- 
quire, and simmer in the ragout two 
minutes : it must not boil. Sometimes 
one or two whole pigeons, nicely pre- 
pared, form a part of this much admired 
dish, which in one way or other is rarely 
omitted on well covered tables. 

659.— VEAL CAKE. 

Bone a breast of veal, and cut it in 
slices ; cut also slices of ham or lean ba- 
con, and boil six eggs hard ; butter a 
deep pan, and place the whole in layers 
one over the other, cutting the eggs in 
slices, and seasoning with chopped herbs 
and cayenne pepper, and wetting the 
herbs with anchov}- or other highly-fla- 
vored sauce. Cover up the whole, let it 
bake for four hours, and when taken 
from the oven, lay a weight upon it to 
press it well together. When cold, turn 
it out. 

660.— ANOTHER. 

Boil six or eight eggs hard ; cut the 
yolks in two, and lay some of the pieces 
in the bottom of the pan ; shake in a lit- 
tle chopped parsley, some slices of veal 
and ham, and then eggs again, shaking in 
after each some chopped parsley, with 
pepper and salt, till the pan is full. Then 
put in water enough to cover it, and lay 
on it about an ounce of butter ; tie it 
down with a double paper, and bake it 
about an hour. Then press it close to- 
gether with a spoon, and let it stand till 
cold. It may be put into a small mould, 
and then it will turn out beautifully for 
a supper or side dish. 



VEAL. 



295 



661.— ANOTHER. 

Chop very finely cold dressed veal and 
ham or bacon ; mix it with a slice of 
bread-crumb soaked in milk, two onions 
chopped and browned, a little salt, pep- 
per, and an egg beaten. Put all these 
ingredients into a stewpan until they are 
hot and are well mixed ; then oil or but- 
ter a mould, put in the whole, and bake 
it in an oven until it is brown ; then take 
it out, and send it to table with fresh 
gravy. 

662. -VEAL ROLLS 

Are cut from any cold joint, or pre- 
pared in the same manner from the raw 
meat. Cut thin slices, and spread on 
them a fine seasoning of a very few 
crumbs, a little chopped or scraped bacon, 
parsley and shalot, some fresh mush- 
rooms stewed and minced, pepper, salt, 
and a small piece of pounded mace. This 
stuffing may either fill up the roll like a 
sausage, or be rolled with the meat. In 
either case, tie it up very tight, and stew 
very slowly in a gravy and a glass of 
sherry. Serve it when tender,, after 
skimming it nicely. 

663.-BLANQUETTES. 

Melt a piece of butter the size of a 
walnut in a stewpan ; then put in a little 
thyme, parsley, or any herbs you like the 
flavor of, and a little onion, all chopped 
fine, with a pinch of flour. Brown the 
herbs ; add pepper and salt, with a clove 
or two. Then put in cold or undressed 
veal, cut in thin slices the size of half a 
crown ; add gravy or broth, half a pint, 
or according to the quantity of meat you 
want to dress. It should not be too large 
a dish. Let it stew very gently over a 
stove ; if of dressed meat, one hour will 
be sufficient ; add half a teacupful of 
cream, and stir it well together for a few 
minutes ; then take it up, and before you 
turn it out have two yolks of eggs well 
beaten, and add to your dish. Give it a 



few shakes over the fire. It must not 
boil, or it will curdle. 

Or : — Cut rabbits, fowl, veal, or lobster 
in pieces, steep them (except the veal and 
fish) in water for half an hour, changing 
the water. Put some butter in a stewpan 
to melt, but do not let it fry ; put in the 
meat with a very little flour, and keep 
shaking it well ; pour in by degrees some 
broth mado of white meat, add a bunch 
of parsley, an onion, salt, mace, and white 
pepper. Stew it well a quarter of an 
hour before it is dished; take out the 
parsley and onion, and add some raw 
parsley chopped, and the yolk of an egg 
and cream beaten together. You must 
never cease shaking the pan until the 
blanquette is put over the dish. 

664.— VEAL 1 LA CHARTREUSE. 

Lme a copper mould with fat bacon, 
lay sliced carrots and turnips round the 
edges, then cover with a forcemeat, and 
put in a fricassee of veal or fowl. Cover 
the top of the mould with a paste, steam 
it an hour, and serve it turned out upon a 
dish. 

665.— TO MARBLE VEAL. 
Boil tender, skin, and cut a dried 
neat's tongue in thin slices, and beat it as 
fine as possible, with half a pound of 
butter and some mace pounded. Have 
ready some roasted fillet of veal, beaten 
with butter, and seasoned with white 
pepper and salt ; of this put a thick layer 
in a large potting-pot, then put in the 
tongue, in rough irregular lumps, not to 
touch each other; fill up the pot with 
veal, and press it down quite close. Pour 
clarified butter thick over ; keep in a dry 
cool place, and servp in thin slices, taking 
oflf the butter. Garnish with parsley. 

666.— SCALLOPS OF COLD VEAL. 
Mince the meat extremely small, and 
set it over the fire, with a scrape of nut- 
meg, a little pepper and salt, and a little 



296 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



cream, for a few minutes ; then put it 
into the scallop-shells, and fill them with 
crumbs of bread, over which put some 
bits of butter, and brown them before 
the fire. 

Either veal or chicken looks and eats 
well prepared in this way, and lightly 
covered with crumbs of bread fried ; or 
these may be put on in little heaps. 

667.— TO MINCE VEAL. 

Cut cold veal as fine as possible, but do 
not chop it ; put to it a very little lemon- 
peel shred, two grates of nutmeg, some 
salt, and four or five spoonfuls of either 
broth, milk, or water; simmer these 
gently with the meat, but take care not 
to let it boil, and add a bit of butter 
rubbed in flour. Put sippets of thin 
toasted bread, cut into a three-cornered 
shape, round the dish. Fried crumbs of 
bread lightly strewed over, or served in 
little heaps on the meat, are an improve- 
ment to the look and flavor. A little 
shred of shalot may occasionally be added. 

Or : — Stew a few small mushrooms in 
their own liquor and a bit of butter a 
quarter of an hour ; mince them very 
small, and add them (with their liquor) 
to minced veal, with also a little pepper 
and salt, some cream, and a bit of butter 
rubbed in less than half a teaspoonful of 
flour. Simmer three or four minutes, and 
serve on thin sippets of bread. 

66S.— THE TURKISH MODE 
Take equal quantities of cold dressed 
veal, minced very fine, fat, and crumbs of 
bread, and season it well ; add chopped 
onions, parsley, salt, and cayenne pepper ; 
wet it with one or two eggs, according to 
the quantity, adding, if necessary, a little 
cold melted butter; make the mixture 
into balls or egg-shapes, and roll them in 
as much boiled rice as they will take 
round them. Stew them for an hour and 
a half in good gravy, well seasoned, and 
serve them up in it. 



In all these modes, the addition may 
be made of sauce atix trv^^es^ or any of 
the approved sauces ; and a squeeze of 
lemon will in all cases be found to give a 
pleasing zest to their flavor. 

669.— CUIIRT OF VEAL. 
Cut part of a breast of veal in moderate 
sized pieces, put it in a stewpan with an 
onion and a shalot sliced fine, a slice of 
lemon, one ounce of butter, a little pars- 
ley and thyme, and a table-spoonful of 
curry -powder mixed with the same quan- 
tity of flour ; add sufficient broth or 
water for the sauce ; let it boil gently 
till the veal is done ; strain the sauce 
through a sieve, pour it over the veal 
quite hot, and serve with rice in a sepa- 
rate dish. 

6T0.— A ROAST BEEF OP LAMB.* 

Take the saddle and the two legs of a 
lamb, cut on the middle of each leg a 
small rosette, which is to be larded, as 
also the fillets. Roast the whole, and 
glaze the larded parts of a good color. 
In France it is served up with maitre 
d'hotel sauce, but in England with gravy 
under it, and mint-sauce in a boat. 



MUTTON. 

This is a delicate and a favorite meat. 
It is susceptible of many modes of cook- 
ing, and should always be served very 
hot and with very hot plates, except of 
course in cases where it may be sent to 
table as a cold dish. It is a meat which 

* The appellation of " roast beef of lamb" must 
sound very extraordinary to an American ear, but the 
singularity of the name is as nothing when com- 
pared with the importance and necessity of the dish. 
At a very great dinner, it is essential to have some 
dish of magnitude. This has a very good appearance, 
and is truly excellent. I beg to recommend the 
trial of a maitre d'hotel sauce under, as the butter, 
parsley, salt, pepper, and lemon-juice, agree well 
with the gravy of the meat. — Ude. 



MUTTON. 



297 



requires care in the cooking, which it will 
amply repay. The roasting parts are the 
better for hanging some time, especially 
the haunch or saddle, but not for boiling, 
as the color is apt to be injured. One of 
the most favorite dishes is the 



671.— HAUNCH OF MUTTON. 

The haunch should be hung as long as 
possible without being tainted ; it should 
be washed with vinegar every day while 
hanging, and dried thoroughly after each 
washing ; if the weather be muggy rub- 
bing with sugar will prevent its turning 
sour ; if warm weather, pepper and ground 
ginger rubbed over it will keep off the 
flies. 

"When ready for roasting, paper the fat, 
commence roasting some distance from 
the fire, baste with milk and water first, 
and then when the fat begins dripping, 
change the dish and baste with its own 
dripping; half an hour previous to its 
being done remove the paper from the 
fat, place it closer to the fire, baste well, 
serve with currant jelly. 



6T2.— TO STUFF A LEG OF MUTTON. 

Take a leg of mutton, cut oflf all the 
fat, take the bone carefully out and pre- 
serve the skin whole ; take out the meat 
and mince it fine, and mix and mince with 
it about one pound of fat bacon and 
some parsley ; season the whole well with 
pepper and salt, and a small quantity of 
eschalot or chives chopped fine ; then put 
the meat into the skin and sew it up 
neatly on the under side ; tie it up in a 
cloth and put it into a stewpan with two 
or three slices of veal, some sliced carrots 
and onions, a bunch of parsley, and a 
few slices of fat bacon ; let it stew for 
three or four hours, and drain the liquor 
through a fine sieve ; when reduced to a 
glaze, glaze the mutton with it and serve 
in stewed French beans. 



673.— TO DEESS A LEG OF MUTTON WITH 
OYSTERS. 

Parboil some fine well-fed oysters, take 
ofi" the beards and horny parts ; put to 
them some parsley, minced onion, and 
sweet herbs, boiled and chopped fine, and . 
the yolks of two or three hard boiled 
eggs. Mix all together, and cut five or 
six holes in the fleshy part of- a leg o 
mutton, and put in the mixture ; and 
dress it in either of the following ways : 
— Tie it up in a cloth and let it boil 
gently two and a half or three hours, ac- 
cording to the size. 

Or : — Braise it, and serve with a pun- 
gent brown sauce. 

674.— SADDLE OF MUTTON. 
This joint, like the haunch, gains much 
of its flavor from hanging for some pe- 
riod. The skin should be taken off", but 
skewered on again until within rather 
more than a quarter of an hour of its 
being done; then let it be taken off, 
dredge the saddle with flour, baste well. 
The kidneys may be removed or remain 
at pleasure, but the fat which is found 
within the saddle should be removed 
previous to cooking. 

675.— LEG OF MUTTON ROASTED, 

Like the haunch and saddle, should be 
hung before cooking, should be slowly 
roasted and served with onion sauce or 
currant jelly. 

676.— EOAST LEG OP MUTTON.— ANOTHER 
RECEIPT. 

Put the leg into an iron saucepan with 
e'jough cold water to cover it, let it come 
to a boil gently, parboil it by simmering 
only ; have the spit or jack ready, and 
take it from the hot water and put it to 
the fire instantly; it will take from an 
hour to an hour and a half if large, and 
less time If small. 

677.— ROAST LEG OP MUTTON BONED AND 
STUFFED. 

The principal skill required in accom- 



plishing this dish is the boning ; this must 
be done with a very sharp knife. Com- 
mence on the underside of the joint, 
passing the knife under the skin until 
exactly over the bone, then cut down to 
it, pass the knife round close to the bone 
right up to the socket, then remove the 
large bone of the thickest end of the leg, 
seeing the meat is clear of the bone ; you 
ma3' then draw out the remaining bones 
easily. Put in the orifice a highly sea- 
soned forcemeat, fasten the knuckle end 
tightly over, replace the bone at the 
base of the joint, and sew it in; roast it 
in a cradle spit pr on a jack ; if the latter 
let the knuckle end be downwards as it 
is less likely to suffer the forcemeat to 
drop out. It must be well basted, and 
should be sent to table with a good 
gravy. 

678.— LEG OF MUTTON BOILED, 
Should be first soaked for an hour and 
a half in salt and water, care being taken 
that the water be not too salt, then 
wiped and Loiled in a floured cloth ; tlie 
time necessary for boiling will depend 
upon the weight ; two hours or two 
hours and a half should be about the 
time ; it should be served with turnips 
mashed, potatoes, greens, and caper 
sauce, or brown cucumber, or oyster 
sauce. 

CT9.-LEG OF MUTTON BRAISED. 

Procure a leg of mutton of choice fla- 
vor, take off the knuckle neatly, divide it 
into two or three pieces, trim the leg of 
all the superfluous edges, and then half 
roast it ; place it with the broken knuckle 
ill a stewpan. add the trimmings with 
half a dozen slices of rich fat bacon, 
thyme, knotted marjoram, and other 
sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, 
and about half an ounce of butter rolled 
in fk>urj stew the whole gently, shaking 
it occasionally and turn it while stewing; 
when it is tender take it up, skim the 



gravy, strain, boil it fast until reduced to 
a glaze, make a puree or soup of vege- 
tables and place the mutton upon it, cover 
the mutton with the glaze, and serve. 

680.— TO SEND A LEG OF MUTTON NEATLY 
TO TABLE WHICH HAS BEEN CUT FOE 
A PEEVIOUS MEAL. 

Too much must not have been cut from 
the joint or it will not answer the pur- 
pose. Bone it, cut the meat as a fillet, 
lay forcemeat inside, roll it, and lay it in 
a stewpan with sufficient water to cover 
it ; add various kinds of vegetables, onions, 
turnips, carrots, par.sley, &c., in small 
quantities ; stew two hours, thicken the 
gravy, serve the fillets with the vegetables 
round it. 

681.— SADDLE OF MUTTON, A LA POLO- 
NAISE. (Soyer's.) 

This is my econom.ical dish, ^?ar excel- 
lence, and very much it is liked every 
time I use it. Take the remains of a 
saddle of mutton, of the previous day, cut 
out all the meat close to the bone, leav- 
ing about one inch wide on the outside, 
cut it with a portion of the fat, into small 
dice ; then put a spoonful of chopped 
onions in a stewpan, with a little butter ; 
fry one minute, add the meat, with a 
table-spoonful of flour, season rather high 
with salt, pepper, and a little grated nut- 
meg ; stir round, and moisten with a gill 
or a little more of broth, add a bay-leaf, 
put it on the stove for ten minutes, add 
two yolks of eggs, stir till rather thick, 
make about two pounds of mashed pota- 
toes firm enough to roll, put the saddle- 
bone in the middle of the dish, and with 
the potatoes form an edging round the 
saddle, so as to give the shape of one, 
leaving the midd'e empty ; fill it with your 
mince meat, which ought to be enough to 
do so; if you should not have enough 
with the remains of the saddle, the re- 
mains of any other joint of mutton may 
be used; egg all over, sprinkle bread- 



MUTTON. 



299 



crumbs aroimd, put in rather a hot oven, 
to get a nice yellow color, poach six eggs, 
and place on the top, and serve brown 
gravy round ; white or brown sauce, if 
at hand, is an improvement. You may 
easily fancy the economy of this well- 
looking and good dish ; the remains of a 
leg, shoulder, loin, neck of mutton, and 
lamb, may be dressed the same way, keep- 
ing their shape of course. 

6S2.— SOTEE'S NEW MUTTON CHOP. 

Trim a middling-sized saddle of mut- 
ton, which cut into chops half an inch in 
thickness with, a saw, without at all 
making use of a knife (the sawing them 
off jagging the meat and causing them to 
eat more tender,) then trim them into 
shape ; season well with salt and pep- 
per, place them upon a gridiron over 
a sharp fire, turning them three or four 
times; they would require ten min- 
utes' cooking; when done dress them 
upon a hot dish, spread a small piece 
of butter over each, (if approved of.) 
and serve ; by adding half a table-spoonful 
of good sauce to each chop when serving, 
and turning it over two or three times, 
an excellent entree is produced : the bone 
keeping the gravy in whilst cooking, it is 
a very great advantage to have chops cut 
after this method. At home, when I 
have a saddle of mutton, I usually cut two 
or three such chops, which I broil, rub 
maitre-d'h6tel butter over, and serve with 
fried potatoes round, using the remainder 
of the saddle the next day for a joint. 
The above are also very excellent, well 
seasoned and dipped into egg and bread- 
crumbs previous to broiling. Lamb chops 
may be cut precisely the same, but re- 
quire a few minutes' less broiling. 

You must remark that, by this plan, 
the fat and lean are better divided, and 
you can enjoy both ; whilst the other is 
a lump of meat near the bone and fat at 
the other end, which partly melts in 



cooking, and is often burnt by the flame 
it makes ; the new one not being divided 
at the bone, keeps the gravy in admirably. 
If well sawed it should not weigh more 
than the ordinary one, being about half 
the thickness. Do try them, and let me 
know your opinion. 

683.— NECK OF MUTTON 

Is particularly useful, as many dishes 
may be made of it. The best end of the 
neck may be boiled for one hour and a 
half, and served with turnips ; or roast- 
ed ; dressed in steaks ; in pies ; a-la- 
Turc ; or en haricot. 

The scrag may be stewed into broth ; 
or with a small quantity of water, some 
small onions, a few peppercorns, and a 
little rice, and served together. 

684— SHOULDER OF MUTTON 

Must be well roasted and sent to table 
with skin a nice brown ; it is served 
with onion sauce. This is the plainest 
fashion, and for small families the best. 

685.— A SHOULDER OF MUTTON "WITH 
RICE. 

Take a shoulder of mutton and half 
boil it, then put it into a stewpan, with 
two quarts of mutton gravy, a quarter 
of a pound of rice, a teaspoonful of mush- 
room powder, with a little beaten mace, 
and stew it till the rice is tender ; then 
take up the mutton and keep it hot ; put 
to the rice half a pint of cream, and a 
piece of butter rolled in flour ; stir it 
weU round the pan, and let it boil a few 
minutes; lay the mutton in the dish, 
and pour the rice over it. 

686.— LOIN OF MUTTON STEWED. 

Remove the skin, bone it, and then 
roll it ; put it in a stewpan with a pint 
and a half of water, two dessert-spoon- 



300 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



fills of pyroligneous acid, a piece of but- 
ter, sweet herbs, and an onion or two ; 
when it has stewed nearly four hours, 
strain the gravy, add two spoonfuls of 
red wine, take up and serve with jelly 
sauce. 

68T.— BREAST OF MUTTON 

]May be stewed in gravy until tender, 
bone it, score it, season well with cay- 
enne, black pepper, and salt ; boil it, and 
while cooking skim the fat from the 
gi-avy in which it has been stewed, slice 
a few gherkins, and add with a dessert- 
spoonful of mushroom ketchup ; boil it, 
and pour over the mutton when dished. 

6SS.— BREAST OF MUTTON CRUMBED OR 
GRATIN. 

If one breast of mutton, cut off the 
chine-bone down to the gristle ; if you 
have a stock pot on, put the breast of 
mutton into it, let it boil until tender, 
then take it up to cool ; have leady as 
for the crumbed cutlets, adding in the 
butter and egg a little chopped mush- 
room ; put it all over the breast with a 
paste brush, then put it on a dish and 
in the oven to hi-own ; the sauce will be 
under it when dished. 

689.— NECK OF MUTTON. 

This dish is most useful for broth but 
may be made a pleasant di,sh by judi- 
cious cooking. To send it to table merely 
boiled or baked is to disgust the partaker 
of it. When it is cooked as a single 
dish, first boil it slowly until nearly 
done, then having moistened a quantity 
of bread-crumbs and sweet herbs, chop- 
ped very fine, with the yolk of an egg, 
let the mutton be covered with it, and 
placed in a Dutch or American oven be- 
fore the fire, and served when nicely 
browned. The breast may be cooked in 
the same manner. 



690.— STEAKS FROM A LOIN OF MUTTON - 
Are done in the same way, only trim- 
ming some of the fat oti". Cut thick and 
stew instead of frying them. 

691.— MUTTON STEAKS. 

The steaks are cut from the thick or 
fillet end of a leg of mutton, and dressed 
as rump steaks. 

692.— MUTTON CHOPS BROILED. 

Cut from the best end of the loin, trim 
them nicely, removing fat or skin, leav- 
ing only enough of the former to make 
them palatable : let the fire be very clear 
before placing the chops on the gridiron, 
turn them frequently, taking care that 
the fork is not put into the lean pait of 
the chop ; season them with pepper and 
salt, spread a little fresh butter over each 
chop when nearly done, and send them 
to table upon very hot plates. 

693.— MUTTON CHOPS FRIED. 

The fat in which the chops are to be 
fried should he boiling when the chops 
are put into it. They should be pared of 
fat and well trimmed before cooking; 
they should be turned frequently, and 
when nicely browned they will be done ; 
of course if they are very thick judg- 
ment must be exercised respecting the 
length of time the}' will occupy in cook- 
ing. 



Mutton Chop. 
694.— CHOPS AS BEEFSTEAKS. 

Cut thick from a leg of mutton, and 
rub each steak with a shalot ; boil over 
a qu ck fire; rub your dish with shalot ; 
when on the dish pepper and salt it ; 
send it up quite hot. 



MUTTON. 



301 



695.— MUTTON CUTLETS. 

Loin chops make the best cutlets. 
Take off the vertebrae or thickest end of 
each bone and about an inch off the top 
of the bone ; put the chops into a stew- 
pan in which has been previously melt- 
ed a little butter seasoned with salt ; 
stew for a short time, but not until they 
are brown, as that appearance is accom- 
plished in another manner. Chop some 
parsley very fine, add a little thyme, 
mix it with sufficient yolk of egg to 
coat the chops, which will have been 
suffered to cool before this addition to 
them ; then powder them with bread- 
crumbs over which a pinch of cayenne 
pepper has been sprinkled ; broil them 
upon a gridiron over a clear but not a 
brisk fire ; when they are brown dish 
them ; lemon-juice may be squeezed over 
them, or the dish in which they are serv- 
ed may be garnished with thin slices of 
lemon in halves and quarters. 



696.— MUTTON CUTLETS— ANOTHER WAT. 

Not a very fat neck, take off the scrag 
and the breast bones, leaving the re- 
mainder the length you intend the cut- 
lets, then take the chine bone clean off. 
then the skin and some of the fat ; you 
will now have the mutton free from 
bones to cut your cutlet'* ; you will find 
you can cut fourteen good cutlets from 
this trimmed neck without any hacking ; 
beat each cutlet with your beater, trim 
them neatly ; be sure to cut out the pac- 
wax, and leave a little fat to each cutlet. 
If for gratin or bread crumbed, prepare 
some chopj^ed parsley and shalot, and 
bread-crumbs ; put some butter to melt 
in a stewpan, a little of the parsley and 
shalot and some yolk of egg. mix it well 
up together ; put your bread-ciumbs on 
a sheet of paper, add to it a little salt 
and pepper ; dip each cutlet into melted 
butter, put down the bread-crumbs with 



your knife, lay them on a buttered saute- 
pan until wanted to fry. 

697.— CUTLETS SAUT^. 

Cut your neck of mutton precisely as 
for the crumbed cutlets; have ready a 
piece of butter melted in your saute-pan ; 
dip each cutlet both sides in the butter ; 
when required fry them a very light 
color, pepper and salt them ; when done 
take them up to drain from the fat, have 
some good glaze melted, and glaze each 
cutlet both sides ; dish them round with 
or without a rim of mashed potato. 

698.— MUTTON CUTLETS— MAINTENON. 

Trim the cutlets as for former cutlets ; 
half fry them, then cover them with line 
herbs and bread-crumbs, and season with 
pepper and salt. Lay all to cool ; have 
some fresh parsley to add to the already 
fried herbs and shalot. When cool, 
spread the butter and herbs thick upon 
each cutlet; sprinkle them with bread- 
crumbs ; wrap them in buttered foolscap 
paper, and broil them over a slow fire 
until done. 

G99.— BRAISED CUTLETS. 

Trim your mutton from the bones as 
before ; then put it whole into a good 
braise ; let it stew gently until tender ; 
put it aside to get cold ; when so, cut 
your cutlets as thick as the former ; trim 
them neatly, make them hot and glaze 
them. 

700.— EILLET OF MUTTON. 

Choose a very large leg ; cut from four 
to five inches in thickness from the large 
end of the leg; take out the bone, and in 
its place put a highly savory forcemeat ; 
flour and roast it for two hours. When 
done, it may be sent to table with the 
same accompaniments as a fillet of veal. 



302 



THE PRACTICAL H0U8EKEEPEK. 



with melted butter poured over it, or a 
rich brown gravy and red currant jelly. 

TOl.— FILLET OP MUTTON STEWED. 

Cut and prepare stuff as above, flour 
and brown in a little butter, and put it 
into a stewpan with a pint and a half of 
gravy ; with it a small bundle of sweet 
herbs, two or three small onions, or eight 
or ten small button onions peeled, a tea- 
spoonful of whole black pepper ; stew 
slowly three hours and a half. The fillet 
may be salted, and being half I'oasted may 
be stewed with its trimmings. 

702.— FILLETS IN MARINADE. 

Cut from the loins of mutton ; pre- 
pare some carrots, turnips, onions, and 
celeiy, thyme, mace, cloves, and whole pep- 
per ; cut up in thin slices ; boil a little vin- 
egar and water, put your fillets in a deep 
dish, pour the vinegar over the roots and 
mutton when cold ; let it lie all night ; 
next day trim neatly and braise them ; 
take them out, and when required glaze 
them, sauce under them. 

703.-BLANQUETTE DE MOUTON 

Is generally made from a former day's 
saddle of mutton ; cutting out the fillets, 
trimming it neatly, you will be able to 
cut clearly pieces the size of a shilling, 
which you will put into some good 
sauce, you may then put two or three 
gherkins into it ; this is dished better in 
a tin. 

T04.— HARICOT OF MUTTON. 

Cut a neck or loin of mutton into thin 
chops ; flour and fry them brown in a 
small quantity of butter; drain them on 
a sieve ; then put them into a stewpan 
and cover them with gravy ; add a carrot, 
two leeks, a faggot of parsley and thyme ; 
two or three blades of mace, some all- 
spice, a whole onion, and two turnips ; 
stew them until the meat is tender ; then 



take out the chops, strain the gravy, and 
skim off all the fat ; put a little butter 
mixed with flour into the stewpan ; stir 
it until melted and made quite smooth, 
adding the gravy by degrees, stirring all 
the time ; then put in the chops, with 
some carrots and turnips ready blanched 
and cut into pretty shapes, with a dozen 
silver onions whole, and also half boiled 
season slightlj^ with pepper and salt, a 
very little soy, and a teaspoonful of Tar- 
ragon vinegar; stew the whole gently 
for a quarter of an hour, and serve them 
while quite hot. 

T05.— MUTTON HAEICOT. 

Take a loin of mutton, cut it into small 
chops, season it with ground pepper, all- 
spice and salt ; let it stand a night, and 
then fry it. Have good gravy well sea- 
soned with flour, butter, ketchup, and 
pepper if necessary. Boil turnips and 
carrots, cut them small, and add to the 
mutton, stewed in the gravy, with the 
j^olks of liard boiled eggs and forcemeat 
balls. Some green pickles will be an im- 
provement. 

706.— HARICOT MUTTON— ANOTHER WAY. 

Cut into chops the best end of the 
neck of mutton ; fry them a light brown 
in fat made boiling-hot before the chops 
are put into it ; some pieces cut from the 
neck will be the best, dredge them with 
flour; sprinkle them with pepper and 
salt, ])ut in a stewpan three parts of a 
pint of water, an onion stuck with cloves, 
parsley, a few spring onions, and a bay- 
leaf; stew gently till the meat is nearly 
done, then add turnips and carrots cut 
small ; fry a large onion cut in slices 
brown ; add it to the gravy, which when 
just done must be thickened; take out 
the sweet herbs when the whole has 
stewed an hour, and serve. 

707.— MUTTON KEBOBBED. 

Take all the fat out of a loin of mat 



MUTTON. 



303 



ton, and that on the outside also if very 
fat, and remove the skin ; cut it into 
steaks ; mix a small nutmeg grated with 
a little salt and pepper, crumbs, and 
herbs ; dip the steaks into the yolks of 
three eggs, and sprinkle the above mix- 
tuie all over them ; then place the steaks 
together as they were before they were 
cut asunder, tie them, and fasten ttiem 
on a small spit ; roast them at a quick 
fire J set a dish under, and baste them 
with a good piece of butter and the 
liquor that comes from the meat, but 
throw some more of the above seasoning 
over. "When done enough, take it up. 
and lay it in a dish ; have half a pint of 
good gravy ready besides that in the dish, 
and put into it two !-p(jonfuls of ketchup, 
and rub down a teaspoonful of flour with 
it ; give this a boil, and pour it over the 
mutton, but first skim oif the fat. Mind 
to keep the meat hot, till the gravy is 
quite ready. 

708.— HASHED MUTTON. 

This is a favorite method of disposing 
of the cold shoulder, especially if it should 
happen to be underdone ; cut it into 
slices, take the bones (if of a shoulder or 
leg break them), and put them in a stew- 
pan with the trimmings ; cover them 
with water, put in a faggot of thyme, pars- 
ley, whole pepper, allspice. &c., cover 
down and simmer for three-quarters of an 
hour; while the bones, &c., are stewing, 
fry an onion brown in a little butter and 
flour; put ic into the stewpan with the 
gravy, stew gently twenty minutes, strain 
it, lay in the slices of mutton in the stew- 
pan, pour over them the strained gravy ; 
pi'Ur in a spoonful of walnut ketchup, or 
any suitable preferred sauce, season it, 
simmer until the meat is hot through, 
dish and serve. 

A spoonful of curry powder is some- 
times added, and is always a palatable 
addition. 



T09.— IltlSH STEW. 

Cut a neck of mutton as for the hari- 
cot ; blanch the chops in water ; take and 
put them into another stewpan with four 
onions cut in slices ; put to it a little of 
your second stock, let it boil a quarter 
of an hour ; have ready some potatoes 
pared ; put them into the stewpan with 
the mutton, with salt and pepper; as 
some like the potatoes whole and some 
mashed as to thicken the stew, you must 
boil them accordingly ; dish the meat 
round and the vegetables in the middle. 

no.— CHINA CUILO. 

Mince a pint basin of undressed neck 
of mutton or leg, and some of the fat ; 
put two onions, a lettuce, a pint of green 
[.eas, a teaspoonful of pepper, four spoon- 
fuls of water, and two or three ounces of 
clarified butter into a stewpan closely 
covered ; simmer two hours, and seive in 
the middle of a dish of boiled rice; if 
cayenne is approved, add a little. 

711.— CHINA CHILO— ANOTHER WAY. 

Chop verj' fine two small young let- 
tuces, two onions, a pint of green peas, 
and a couple of young cucumbers, or the 
fourth of a pint of n)Ushrooms ; season 
with a teaspoonful of salt and half a tea- 
spoonful of pepper ; mince the meat of a 
neck of mutton uncooked, and mix it with 
the vegetables in a stewpan; add four 
table-spoonfuls of water and two ounces 
of butter, clarified will be proved the 
best ; let them well amalgamate over a 
slow fire ; keep them stirred for fifteen 
minutes, then cover down close and sim- 
mer «ery slowly for two hours; serve it 
in the centre of boiled rice. 

712.-MINCED MUTTON. 

Mince dressed meat very finely, season 
it, make a very good gravy, warm the 
meat up in it, and serve with fried bread 
round the dish, or with poached eggs. 



304: 



THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



Or : — Mince cold leg of mutton freed 
from the skin and fat, ^A-arm it with stew- 
ed cucumbers, taking care that it does 
not burn after the meat is put in. 

ri8.— AU GRATIN, OR AS SCALLOPS. 
Mince dressed mutton with a yery little 
fat, season lightly with pepper and salt. 
and put into scallop-shells about half full. 
Then put potatoes mashed with a little 
milk, and a very small bit of butter; 
smooth with a spoon, and brown in a 
Dutch oven. 

714.— AS RISSOLES. 

Enclose the minced meat in a paste or 
browning of egg and crumbs of bread, but 
season it as if for forcemeat. 

715.— MUTTON LIKE VENISON. 
A haunch or leg will be the most ap- 
propriate. The joint should be hung as 
long as it can be with safety, and dressed 
exactly like a haunch of venison, and 
served with the same sauces, but to make 
the taste more perfectly resemble that of 
venison it should, after having been hung 
to the turn, be skinned, and laid in a 
pan with vinegar and water ; two parts 
of the former to one of the latter, not 
enough to cover it; put in a fagot of 
herbs, a clove of garlic, one or two bay- 
leaves, a spoonful of whole pepper, and a 
couple of onions cut in slices ; let it soak 
three days, dry it well, hang it for a day 
and roast as venison. It may also be put 
into a stewpan with half a pint of gravy, 
and simmered four hours; serve with 
venison sauce. 

716.— TO MAKE A SCOTCH HAGGIS. 

Take the stomach of a sheep. The 
washing and cleaning is of more couse- 
(luence than all, as it will be of a bad color 
and a bad taste if not well cleansed ; 
when clean, turn it inside out, then let it 
lie for a day or two in salt and water. 
Blanch the liver, lights, and heart of the 



sheep, lay them in cold water, chop all 
very fine ; the liver you had better grate, 
chop a pound of the suet very fine, dry 
in the oven a pound of oatmeal ; mix all 
this well together season with pepper and 
salt, a little chopped parsley, and a little 
chopped onion ; then sew up the bag ; 
befoi-e you finish sewing it, add a few 
spoonfuls of good white stock ; put it in 
a stewpan with a drainer ; boil it in 
water, keeping it well covered all the 
time, prick it all over with a small lard- 
ing pin to keep it from bursting ; it will 
take several hours to boil ; be careful in 
taking it up, and let your dish be large 
enough. , 



717.-EOGNON DE MOUTON A LA FEAN- 
QAISE. 

Take half a dozen fine mutton kidneys, 
clear them of fat and skin, and cut them 
into thin slices ; powder them immedi- 
ately with sweet herbs in fine powder, 
parsley which has been chopped, dried, 
and powdered, cayenne, and salt: put 
into a stewpan two ounces of clarified 
butter or fresh if the former is not in 
reach, put in the slices of kidney, fry 
them ; they will brown very quickly, they 
must be done on both sides ; dredge fiour 
over them, moisten with lemon juice ; in 
five minutes the kidneys will be done ; 
lift them out into a very hot dish around 
which are laid sippets fried ; pour into 
the gravy two glasses of champagne, give 
it a boil, pour it over the kidneys, and 
serve. 

It may here be stated that the French 
cooks vary constantly the herbs which 
they employ, according to any known 
preference for the palate of those for 
whom they cook. Various kinds of 
wines and sauces may be used for flavor- 
ing, and this is constantly done as much 
for variety and the ability of giving a new 
name to a dish, which is vari?>d only in 
some such small feature. 



MUTTON. 



305 



718.— LOIN OF MUTTON LIKE VENISON. 
(French Eeceipt.) 

Remove the skin from the joint and 
bone it. and do it neatly ; lay it in a stew- 
pan with about a pint of weak broth, an 
onion stuck with cloves, two glasses of 
red wine, and a teaspoonful of pyrolig- 
neous acid; let it boil, put in a bundle of 
sweet herbs ; stew, turning frequently ; 
add as it progresses a little gravy ; some 
very good may be made from the bones ; 
it will take from two hours and a half to 
three hours. 

719.— TO DRESS MUTTON HAMS. 
Soak the ham for five or six hours in 
cold spring water, unless it has only re- 
cently been cured, then one hour will 
suffice ; put it into cold water, boil gently ; 
it will be done in two hours and a half. 
It is eaten cold. 

720.— MUTTON KIDNEYS BROILED. 

Skin and spit without parting asunder, 
skewer them through the outer edge and 
keep them flat, lay the opened sides first 
to the fire, which should be clear and 
brisk, in four minutes turn them, sprinkle 
with salt and caj-enne, and when done, 
which will be in three minutes afterwards, 
take them from the fire, put a piece of 
butter inside them, squeeze some lemon 
juice over them, and serve as hot as pos- 
sible. 

721.-SHEEFS TONGUES STEWED. 

Put them into cold water and let them 
boil ; when they are sufficiently tender to 
remove the skin easily, take them out, 
split them, and lay them in a stewpan 
with enough good gravy to cover them. 
Chop parsley, and mushroom, with a lit- 
tle eschalot finely, work a lump of but- 
ter with it, add pepper and salt to flavor ; 
stew them in the gravy until the tongues 
are tender, lay them in a dish, strain the 



it hot over the tongues, 



gravy and pour 
and serve, 

722.— C6TELETTES A LA MAINTENON. 
(Ude's Receipt.) 

Pare the chops neatly. Chop fine 
some sweet herbs, such as parsley, sha- 
lots, and mushrooms, which fry in a little 
butter. When they are done, fry the 
chops a little in that seasoning till nearly 
done, let them cool in the herbs ; then 
have some strong foolscap paper cut in 
the form of the cutlet, put some of the 
herbs and ham chopped very fine, if you 
have it ready in the larder ; put the cut- 
lets in and a little of the herbs over 
them ; wrap them in the paper, and broil 
them on a veiy clean gridiron and very 
equal fire till of a good color ; serve them 
very hot, and a little Italian sauce sepa- 
rate. Mind to wipe the grease with a 
clean towel before serving them. 

728.— MUTTON CUTLETS WITH SOUBISE, 
OR ONION SAUCE. 

Take a neck of mutton, and cut the 
chops one by one without flattening 
them ; cut off some of the flat bone at the 
extremity of the chops. Put them into 
a stewpan with all the parings, together 
with the parings of the onions to make 
the soubise. Season the whole well with 
carrots, a bunch of parsley, and green 
onions, salt, and a very small quantity 
of spice, &c. ; throw in four or five spoon- 
fuls of good broth to braize them. When 
done, drain them, and let them cool. 
Strain the liquor through a silk sieve. 
Then reduce it to a glaze. Next pare the 
chops nicel}-, and put them with the 
glaze. This being completed, dish them 
miroton way, and pour the soubise or 
onion sauce into the middle. 

Some persons take two necks of mut- 
ton, cut two bones to each chop, lard 
them with bacon, and braize, them as 
above ; but mutton, being in general fat, 
is better without being larded. With 



306 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



regard to the two bones, you must take 
care not to let them be too thick ; if they 
are too thick you cannot dish them well. 

724.— ANOTHER, AND A MUCH BETTER 
METHOD OF PREPARING CUTLETS A LA 
80UBISE. 

Cut the mutton chops a little thicker 
than when you wish to broil them. Pare 
them nicely, and put them into a stew- 
pan, where they may all lie flat. Put an 
onion or two, a few carrots, a little salt, 
a bundle of parsley and green onions sea- 
soned, four or five .spoonfuls of good con- 
somme, and sweat the whole till it is en- 
tirely done. Then take out the roots, 
put in a little glaze, and reduce over a 
large fire. When entirely boiled down 
to a glaze, take them off the fire for a few 
minutes, let the cutlets settle in the 
glaze, take out the trimmings and vege- 
tables, turn over the cutlets in the glaze, 
and take out the grease or fat, lay them 
on a cover to drain the fat, and serve up 
before they can get dry. — This method is 
preferable to the other. You must not 
in either case lard your chops with bacon. 
These cutlets may be served up with all 
sorts of puree of vegetables. 

725.— FOR C6TELETTES DE MOUTON EN 
RAGOUT. 

Take oflF all the fat from the cutlets, 
dredge the meat with flour, and put them 
into a stewpan with the fat melted, a bun- 
dle of sweet herbs, and two shalots minced ; 
let them brown, then strain the gravy, 
add a glass of wine, and one of good 
sauce ; thicken, if necessary, with a little 
roux, and let the whole stew until very 
tender. 

726.— TO DRESS CATELETTES DE MOUTON 
A LA POLONAISE. 

Remove all the fat, put the meat into 
a covered stewpan, with a carrot and a 
turnip sliced, two onions, a bundle of 
sweet herbs, a little pepper and salt, and 



enough broth to moisten the whole ; let 
it stew very gently until the meat is per- 
fectly done, then take it out, strain the 
gravy, put it over a brisk fire, and reduce 
it to a glaze ; then cover the cutlets with 
the glaze, and serve them up with tomato- 
sauce, or a vegetable pur^e of any kind. 




Mutton C jtlets. 

727.— FOR CATBLETTES A LA MAINTENON. 

Cut and trim cutlets from a neck or 
loin of mutton ; chop very finely a quan- 
tity of parsley, a little thyme, and a sha- 
lot ; put them with butter into a stew- 
pan, and fry the chops a little ; then take 
out the chops ; allow them to cool ; add to 
the herbs some fresh parsley chopped and 
a few crumbs of bread, and seasoning . 
spread this over the cutlets with a knife, 
wrap them in buttered paper, and broil 
them over a slow fire. Serve a sauce 
piquant in a boat. 

Or : — Cut them handsomely from the 
loin or back end of the neck ; half fry 
them, and then cover them with herbs, 
crumbs of bread, and seasoning ; lay this 
on very thickly, and put them into a 
stewpan with a little gravy ; stew until 
tender, then wrap them in writing-paper, 
and finish them on the gridiron. 

728. -C6TELETTE9 AUX HARtCOTS VERTS. 

Having dressed French beans as usual, 
drain the water from them, and simmer 
them with pepper and salt in a good piece 
of butter. A few minutes before serving 
add the beaten yolk of an egg, and shake 
the pan over the fire ; but they must not 



MUTTON. 



307 



boil. In the mean time have ready three 
mutton cutlets, neatly trimmed, seasoned 
with pepper, salt, and a few crumbs, and 
nicely fried ; and serve them on the 
French beans. 

729.— SCRAGS OF MUTTON 1 LA 8AINTE 
MENEHOULD. 

Order the narrow part o+ a neck of 
small mutton to be cut off before the 
sheep be divided ; which leaves the two 
scrags united. Soak in warm water, then 
hang it two days ; lay it in a stewpot, 
with slices of fat bacon over and under, 
two pounds of scrag of veal, three large 
carrots, three onions, a large bunch of 
sweet herbs, two bay-leaves, and a table- 
spoonful of whole white pepper ; cover the 
vHiole with beef broth, and simmer four 
hours. Drain the gravy from the meat, 
wJiich cover on all sides with crumbs of 
bread mixed with pepper and salt, and 
brown it with a salamander. In the 
mean time boil the gravy, uncovered, 
very quickly, having strained it first, and 
serve in the dish ; add salt. Serve in the 
dish endive, tomato sauce, or stewed 
spinach, 

730.— MUTTON KIDNEYS. 

Split, pepper, and broil them, broiling 
the cut side first, which will make a cup 
for the gravy when the outer part is 
turned to the fire. Chop some parsley 
very fine, mix it well with a little fresh 
butter, the juice of a lemon, pepper and 
salt, and put a little on each. A sheep's 
heart may be split open, and broiled in 
the same way. 

With a very sharp knife cut mutton 
kidneys in the thinnest possible slices ; 
flour, and fry quickly till they are quite 
crisp. While fiying. add pepper and 
salt. SeiTC them in a good gravy, to 
which a bit of garlic has given a very 
slight flavor. 

731.— ROGNONS, AU VIN BE CHAMPAGNE. 
Slice or mince them, and fry them with 



a little chopped parsley and eschalot until 
they become of a light brown, seasoning 
them with pepper and salt ; then dust 
them with flour, moisten them with a 
little strong gravy and a glass of Cham- 
pagne, and let them stew for a few mo- 
ments,. 

732.— SHEEP'S TAILS AND KIDNEYS. 

Cut the tails, boil them for fifteen 
minutes, then put them into a stewpan 
with half a pint of gravy, an onion stuck 
with cloves, a little s-alt, and cayenne 
pepper. Stew till tender, strain the 
gravy, thicken it with flour and butter, 
and add the juice of half a lemon. Boil 
until the whole is very smooth, broil 
half a dozen kidneys, and place them in 
the middle of a dish with the tails and 
sauce round. 

These are the most tasty modes, but 
kidneys, when meant for breakfast, are 
usually broiled upon the gridiron, with- 
out parsley or lemon ; being only split 
open, well peppered, and a bit of butter 
put upon them when broiled. They 
must not be much done, and may be 
brought to the table in less than ten 
minutes. If not quite hot, they are not 
worth eating. 

733.— MUTTON RUMPS AND KIDNEYS. 

Stew six rumps in some good rputton- 
gravy half an hour ; then take them up, 
and let them stand to cool. Clear the 
gravy from the fat ; and put into it four 
ounces of boiled rice, an onion stuck 
with cloves, and a biade of mace; boil 
them till the rice is thick. Wash the 
rumps with yolks of eggs well beaten ; 
and strew over them crumbs of bread, a 
little pepper and salt, chopped parsley 
an! thyme, and grated lemun-peel. Fry 
in butter of a fine brown. While the 
rumps are stewing lard the kidneys, and 
put them to roast in a Dutch oven. 
When the rumps are fried, the grease 
must be drained before they are put on 



308 



THE PKACTICAI. HOUSEKEEPER. 



the dish, and the pan being cleared like- 
wise from the fat, warm the rice in it. 
Lay the latter on the dish ; the rumps 
put round on the rice, the narrow ends 
towards the middle, and the kidneys be- 
tween. Garnish with hard eggs cut in 
half, the white being left on ; or with 
different-colored pickles. 

784— SHEEP'S HEAD.— (English.) 

Though this may be seen in every part 
of London inhabited by the working 
classes, and may be procured ready 
cooked, I prefer always to prepare it at 
home, and very good it is. Choose a 
fine one. as fat as possible, and put it 
into a gallon of water to disgorge for two 
hours ; wash it Avell, saw it in two from 
the top, take out the brain, cut away 
part of the uncovered part of the skull, 
and also the ends of the jaws ; wash it 
well, put into the stewpan, with two 
onions, one carrot, two turnips cut in 
slices, a little celery, four cloves, a bou- 
quet of four sprigs of thyme, a bay-leaf, 
one ounce of salt, a quarter of an ounce 
of pepper, three quarts of water ; set on 
the fire ; when near boiling, add half a 
teacupful of pearl or Scotch barley ; let 
it simmer for three hours, or till tender, 
which try with a fork ; take out vege- 
tables, cut in dice, remove bouquet, skim 
off the fat, and pour all into tureen. 
Or. lay the head on a dish, and serve 
with either onion sauce over, parsley and 
butter, or any sharp sauce ; or egg and 
bread-crumb it over, put it in an oven for 
half an hour till getting a nice yellow 
color, and serve with sharp sauce under. 
Or, with the brain, thus : having boiled 
the brain for ten minutes in a little vine- 
gar, salt, find water, cut it in pieces, warm 
it in jiarsley and butter, season it a lit- 
tle, and put it under the head and serve. 

735.— SHEEP'S HEADS, HEARTS, TAILS, 
AND TONGUES. 

A great variety of excellent dishes 
may be made from a slieeph head, which 



in India, where veal is not so easily pro- 
curable, answers all the purposes for 
mock turtle, rolled head, rich hash, or 
ragoflt : the bones make excellent jelly 
either savory or sweet. Parboil the 
head ; cut the meat from the bone ; stew 
the former in a little of the liquor until 
quite tender ; send it to table with a glass 
of wine in the sauce, forcemeat-balls and 
brain-cakes for garnish ; or roll up the 
pieces seasoned in the inside with a thick 
covering of chopped herbs well seasoned 
brush the outside with yolk of egg 
dredge it with bread-crumbs ; fry it 
and send to table with a rich gravy made 
of the bones and pickles warmed up in it. 
Take a sheep^s heart and stuff it 
throughout, using a considerable quali- 
tity of chopped bacon in the stufifing ; 
half boil it, and when cooled a little rub 
it over with pepper and salt, and wrap it 
in paste in the shape of a cone. Rub the 
paste over with the yolk of an egg, and 
strew vermicelli loosely over it. Set it 
with the broad end downwards, and 
bake it in the oven. When baked, send 
it to table with gravy sauce. 

786.— SHEEP'S TAILS AND TONGUES. 
Take three tails and three tongues, cut 
the tails in half and split the tongues. 
Stew them gently for three hours in as 
much water as will cover them, adding 
three spoonfuls of vinegar, three onions. 
a teaspoonful of mixed spices, and one of 
salt : these ingredients to be put in after 
the pot has been skimmed. When the 
tails, &c , are very tender, take them out, 
score them, dip them in drawn butter, 
roll them in grated bread-crumbs, and let 
them lie for a few minutes, then put on 
more butter with a knife, and additional 
bread-crumbs, which latter should be 
slightly seasoned ; brown them before the 
fire. Strain the gravy, enrich it with 
butter, squeeze lemon juice over the 
tongues and tails, and serve them in the 
gravy. 



MUTTON. 



309 



737.— SHEEP'S TE0TTEE3. 

Boil the trotters, or rather stew them 
gently, for several hours, until the bones 
will come out. The liquor they are 
boiled in will make excellent stock or 
jelly. Take out the bones without in- 
jury to the skin, stuff them with a fine 
forcemeat ; stew them for half an hour in 
some of the stock, which must be well 
flavored with onion, seasoning, and a lit- 
tle sauce; take out the trotters, strain 
the sauce, reduce it to a glaze, and brush 
it over the feet. Serve with any stewed 
vegetable. 

Or : — Prepare them in the same way, 
and dip them in a batter and fry them. 
The paste, or batter, for frying, is best 
made thus : mix four spoonfuls of flour 
with one of olive-oil, and a sufficient 
quantity of beer to make it of the proper 
thickness ; then add the whites of two 
eggs well beaten and a little salt. Serve 
with tomato sauce. 

Or : — Simply boil them, and eat them 
cold with oil and vinegar. 

788.— SHEEP'S TROTTERS.— (Soyer.) 

I get a dozen of them from the tripe- 
butcher, all cleaned and ready, and beg 
of him to extract the long bone from 
them. I put a quarter of a pound of 
beef or mutton-suet in a stewpan, with 
two onions and one carrot sliced, two 
bay-leaves, two sprigs of thyme, one 
ounce of salt, a quarter of an ounce of 
pepper; put on the fire, and cook five 
minutes ; add two tablespoonfuls of flour, 
and stir it round ; add two quarts and a 
half of water, then put in the feet, stir 
till boiling; simmer for nearly three 
hours, or until the feet are perfectly 
tender ; when done, take them out, and 
lay on a sieve ; take a quarter of a pound 
of fresh butter, a teaspoonful of salt, 
the same of flour, a quarter of one of 
pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the juice 
of a lemon; mix all these well together 
20 



on a plate with the back of a spoon ; put 
the feet with a gill of milk in a stewpan 
on the fire ; when very hot, put in the 
butter, stir continually till melted, hav- 
ing previously well mixed two yolks of 
eggs with five table-spoonfuls of milk, 
which put in the stewpan ; keep moving 
the pan round ovier the fire continually 
for one minute, serve in a very hot dish 
with croutons of fried bread cut in tri- 
angular pieces round the dish. The 
stock may be used for any puree or thick 
soup. 

739.— FRENCH RAGOUT OF MUTTON. 

Take about two pounds of the scrag 
of the neck, breast, chump, or any other 
part, with as httle fat as possible, cut it 
into pieces of about two inches square, 
put into a pan two ounces of butter, or 
good fat; when melted, add two table- 
spoonfuls of flour, stir with a wooden 
spoon till forming a brownish roux, add 
the meat, and stir it round for twenty 
minutes ; add a little water, but not 
enough to cover the meat ; one salt- 
spoonful of pepper, four ditto of salt, and 
four ditto of sugar, a bouquet of six 
sprigs of parsley, stir till boiling, set it 
to simmer. Having previously peeled a 
few turnips, cut in large dice one inch 
square, about thirty pieces, put some fat 
in the fryingpan, and fry the turnips 
until rather brown, take them out, and 
put them in a stewpan with the meat 
when it is done, which will be in about 
one hour froai the time it was put on; 
when ready to serve, take out the meat 
and turnips, squeeze the bouquet, which 
throw away, skim ofi" the fat ; if too 
thick, add a little broth or water ; or, if 
too thin, boil it a little more, Jish it up 
by placing the pieces in a circle and the 
turnips in the centre, sauce over, and 
serve very hot — (if not, it is spoiled.) 
For those who Uke it, a small piece of 
scraped garlic may be added. Onions, 



310 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



carrots, peas, &c., may be used in place 
of the turnips. 

This is a very favorite dish in France ; 
I learnt it from an old French emigre, 
who used to visit us ahout ten years 
since. When I have company, I use the 
chops of the neck, dress them in a crown, 
placing the vegetables, in the centre ; I 
find them very much liked. I have at 
some houses partaken of harico-mutton 
which has been tolerably good, but 
nothing in flavor to this plan. If there 
is any left, it is good warmed again, or 
even cold. 

T40.— IRISH STEW. 

Cut up about two pounds of the neck 
of the mutton, into small cutlets, which 
put into a proper sized stewpan with 
some of the fat of the mutton ; season it 
with half a table-spoonful of salt, a 
quarter of an ounce of pepper, the same 
of sugar, six middle-sized onions, a quart 
of water; set them to boil and simmer 
for half an hour, then add six middling- 
sized potatoes, cut them in halves or 
quarters, stir it together, and let it stew 
gently for about one hour longer ; if too 
fast, remove it from the top, but if well 
done the potatoes will absorb all of it, 
and eat very delicate ; any other part of 
the mutton may be served in the same 
way. 

T41.— TUEESICU8. 

Mince very fine part of a cold boiled 
leg of mutton, and mix it with rice, sea- 
son it very high with black pepper, add 
salt, and make it into balls the size of a 
cabbage-leaf. 

Tie each ball separately in a cabbage- 
leaf; boil it about half an hour, and 
Berve immediately, very hot. 

742.— A SCOTCH HAGGIS. 

Take the stomach of a sheep ; wash it 
with cold water until perfectly clean ; 



then turn it inside out, scald it, scrape it 
with a knife quickly, and then put it into 
cold salt and water till wanted. Take 
the liver, lights, and heart, and parboil 
them ; grate the liver, and raince the 
other parts quite fine ; mince also half a 
pound of suet, three or four onions, 
toast half a pound of round oatmeal 
cakes before the fire, and pound them 
into powder, which is to be thickly sprin- 
kled over the mince ; mix all well to- 
gether; season with pepper and salt; 
then fill the bag, and before sewing it up 
put in a large teacupful of any kind of 
strong broth or gravy. Put the bag, 
neatly sewed up, in a pan with enough 
of boiling water to cover it, and a small 
plate under it ; prick over with a needle 
to prevent it bursting, and let it boil four 
or five hours, keeping the haggis con- 
stantly covered with boiling water. 

743.— THE ENGLISH MODE IS 

To mince the heart, the tongue, the 
kidneys, and a part of the liver of the 
sheep, with a third of its weight in fat 
bacon, two anchovies chopped small, and 
the crumb of' a penny-roll grated, a salt- 
spoonful of grated lemon-peel, pepper, 
salt, two eggs beaten, and a glass of wine ; 
mix all well together ; butter and mould ; 
put in the mixture, and let it boil for 
two hours : or it may be boiled in a veal 
caul. 

744.— A CAMP DISH. 

Take any joint of mutton, put it into 
a pot with a good many onions cut small, 
and as many vegetables as can be obtain- 
ed to add to it ; two table-spoonfuls of 
vinegar, five of port wine ; season it with 
black and red pepper ; add a spoonful of 
flour, and, if at hand, four dessert-spoon- 
fuls of Harvey's sauce and essence of 
anchovies. Cover the meat with water, 
and let it stew one and a half hour ; it 
should be stirred frequently to prevent 



IVrUTTON. 



311 



it from burning, as there should be only- 
water sufBcient to cook it. Should there 
be a steam apparatus do not add the 
water. This is an excellent dish in camp, 
and it also suits a fomily where there 
are many persons to be fed from one 
joint. A fowl may be added to or sub- 
stituted for the mutton. 

745.— SHEEP'S TONGUES WITH TUENIPS. 

Take eight tongues of an equal size; 
let them disgorge in a little water and 
flour, and next blanch them. When 
thoroughly blanched, put them in a stew- 
pan, to braise them. In case you should 
have a braise of beef, or of mutton, or any 
others, they will all equally answer the 
purpose for sheep's tongues ; when they 
are done, peel them and cut them in two. 
Dish them miroton way, and cover them 
with the sauce of the haricot, the turnips 
of course being put in the middle. It is 
customary in French cookery to call any 
thing made with turnips haricot. 

746.— THE SAME WITH CABBAGE LETTUCES. 

The tongues are to be braised as above, 
the same as those you wish to cook in any 
way whatever. Take a dozen and a half 
of good cabbage-lettuces, wash them very 
clean and blanch them. When they are 
cold and you have squeezed all the water 
out of them, open them in two, take oif 
the stalks, powder a little salt and pep- 
per over them ; then shut them and give 
them a good form ; mark them in a stew- 
pan, surrounded with layers of bacon; 
moisten them with a little braise, or any 
thing to give them a good taste ; other- 
wise take the pot-top, with a little broth 
and salt. When the lettuces are quite 
done, drain them,' and squeeze them in a 
cloth to extract the grease. Dish them 
in rosettes, a tongue, a lettuce, and so on 
successively. Put a large tongue in the 
middle, to improve the look of the rosette. 
Another time cut the tongues in two, and 
dish them miroton way, that is, one half 



of a tongue, and lettuce, alternately. In 
this case, put a jardiniere in the middle, 
and cover both the tongues and the let- 
tuce with the Espagnole (Spanish sauce.) 
This is likewise a common dish in a first 
course. 

74T.— MUSETTE OF MUTTON WITH ENDIVE. 
(MUTTON BAGPIPE WITH ENDIVE.) 

Take a shoulder of mutton that has 
been kept for some while ; bone it with- 
out taking off the thin skin that is found 
near the joint ; powder it over with a lit- 
tle pepper and salt. Then pass a piece 
of packthread round, as tailors do round 
a button, fasten the packthread, and 
mould the shoulder of mutton quite 
round. You must preserve the knuckle 
so that it may resemble a bagpipe. 
Braise it, and season it well. After 
having drained and glazed it, send it up 
with either endive or sorrel. 

N. B. It may also be stuffed and lard- 
ed, and a floweret larded in the top part, 
and sent up with white beans a la Lyon- 
naise. This is also a common dish. 




Meat Safe, of inood and wire- 



LAMB. 

748.— FOEE-QUAETER OF LAMB. 

This is the favorite and indeed the best 
joint. Do not put it too near the fire at 
first, -n hen it gets heated baste it well; 
the fire should bo quick, clear, but not 



312 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



fierce ; the usual weight of ^ fore-quarter 
is between nine and eleven pounds, it 
will take two hours ; when it is done, 
separate the shoulder from the ribs, but 
before it is quite taken off lay under a 
large lump of butter, squeeze a lemon, 
and season with pepper and salt ; let it 
remain long enough to quite melt the 
butter, then remove the shoulder and 
lay it on another dish. 




Fore-Quarter of Lamb. 

749.— SADDLE OF LAMB. 

Roast it quickly, but be very careful 
neither to scorch it nor to take it from 
the fire until it is done ; baste with the 
fat and gravy which fall from it, and in 
an hour and three-quarters it will be 
done, unless larger than common, and 
then it will take two hours ; serve with 
mint and cucumber sauce. 

750.— TO ROAST A LEG OF LAMB. 

The rules laid down for roasting mut- 
ton must be scrupulously observed with 
respect to lamb ; let it roast gradually, 
and commence a distance from the fire ; a 
leg of five pounds will take an hour and 
a quarter, one of six pounds will take an 
hour and a half. 

751. -TO BOIL A LEG OF LAMB. 

Put it in sufficient clear cold soft wa- 
ter to cover it. let it remain half an hour, 
a table-spoonful of vinegar or half a hand- 
ful of salt may be thrown in ; put it into 
a thin white cloth which has been floured, 
and boil it in enough water to cover it. A 
good-sized bundle of sweet herbs may be 



thrown into the saucepan ; if six pounds 
it will fee done in an hour and a half; serve 
with spinach or French beans ; if sent to 
table cold lay handsome sprigs of parsley 
about it tastefully ; it may, while hot, be 
garnished with parsley, with thin slices 
of lemon laid round the dish. 

752.— A SHOULDER OF LAMB 

Will be found best cooked when done 
with the fore-quarter, but if roasted sin- 
gly will take an hour. 

753.— SHOULDER OF LAMB LARDED. 
Cut your lardous small, of fine white 
fat bacon, cover them with pounded mixed 
spices, cayenne pepper, and salt ; bone 
the shoulder of lamb, lard the under side, 
roll the joint, and bind it with narrow 
white tape ; braise it, and when done 
glaze it. Serve it on mushroom sauce ; 
any sauce applicable to lamb will serve 
except mint sauce, which should not be 
eaten with this dish. 

754.— TO GRILL A LOIN OF LAMB. 

Boil half an hour, take it out and score 
it like pork, brush it all over with well 
beaten yolk of eggs, and powder over it 
bread-crumbs mixed with minced parsley, 
put it into an American oven and roast 
it until brown ; serve with melted butter 
and lemon pickle, or tomato sauce, the 
last especially, if cold. A shoulder and 
breast may be dressed in the same man- 
ner. 

755.— SHOULDER OF LAMB FORCED AND 
BRAISED. 

Take out the bone from the shoulder ; 
j'ou must be very particular and careful 
in removing the blade bone that you do 
not cut a hole through the skin ; when 
you have done it lill up the vacancy with 
some good veal forcemeat, cover it with 
fat bacon or ham ; then put it into a good 
braise and let it boil gently for about an 
hour, when required glaze it well ; you 



LAMB. 



313 



can make it after you have put in the 
forcemeat and sewed up the cut part, 
either as a shoulder of lamb, or form it into 
a swan by adding the shank bone for a 
neck, and form the beak or bill with 
paste ; if plain, put a paper ruffle or orna- 
mented silver skewer ; the sauce as may 
be approved of, as peas, or spinach, or 
puree, turnips, or French beans, or truf- 
fles, or mushrooms. 

756.— STEWED LOIN OF LAMB. 

The loin may be stewed whole or in 
steaks ; in the former the flap being se- 
cured by a skewer, is put into a stewpan, 
with a quarter of a pound of butter, and 
covered down close ; let it simmer one 
hour, then turn it, let it simmer again for 
an hour and a quarter, and then have 
ready some rich brown gravy hot, Uft out 
the meat, pour the gravy over it, and 
send it to table with mint sauce, a lettuce, 
and a few radishes and spring onions. 

757.— NECK OF LAMB A LA JAEDINLfcEE. 

Plain roast the neck, as you would that 
of mutton ; and whilst it is roasting, cut 
one middle-sized carrot in small dice, the 
same quantity of turnip, and thirty but- 
ton onions ; wash all in cold water, put 
them in a small stewpan, with one ounce 
of butter and half a teaspoonful of sugar, 
place on the fire till no liquid remains in 
the stewpan ; add to it a gill of brown 
sauce, half a one of broth, add a small 
bouquet of parsley and bay-leaf; after 
once boiling, set it to simmer on the cor- 
ner of the stove, skim off all the fat; 
when ready, taste if very palatable ; it 
must be a nice brown color, and the 
sauce lightly adhere to the back of the 
spoon ; serve on the dish, place the neck 
over; white sauce maybe used instead of 
brown, only add a spoonful of liaison 
when ready to serve. The sauce is 
equally good with almost any kind of 
meat, game, and poultry ; it will often be 



referred to, therefore be particular in 
making it ; you can shape the vegetables 
in twenty diflerent ways, by using either 
green peas, French beans, or Brussels 
sprouts ; sprue-grass may be added, 
when in season, but should be boiled 
separately, and added just previous to 



753.— SADDLE OF LAMB, EUSSIAN FASH- 
ION. 

Roast a small saddle of lamb, keeping 
it pale; having had it covered with 
paper, take ten good-sized boiled pota- 
toes, mash them with about two ounces 
of butter, a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter 
ditto of pepper, a table-spoonful of chopped 
parsley, and a little grated nutmeg ; mix 
all well together with a fork, adding half 
a gill of milk and one egg ; when cold, 
roll them into a long shape the size of 
plover's eggs, egg and bread-crumb twice, 
and fry light colored ; dress the saddle, 
surround it with the potatoes, make a 
sauce of melted butter and maitre d'hotel 
butter, put in it, and pour it round, and 
serve. All joints of lamb can be dressed 
thus. 

759.— LEG OE SHOULDEE OF LAMB WITH 
PEAS. 

These must be plain roasted ; when 
done, serve with peas in the bottom of 
the dish. 

760.— LEG OE SHOULDEE WITH FEENCH 
BEANS. 

Plain roast as before ; prepare beans as 
directed. 

761.— BOILED LEG OF LAMB WITH 

SPINACH. 

Procure a very small leg, and cut the 
end of the knuckle-bone, tie it up in a 
cloth and place it in cold water, with two 
ounces of salt ; boil it gently according to 
size ; when done, remove the cloth, and 
dish it up with spinach imder it, pre- 
pared as directed. (See Vegetables.) 



314 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



T02.— SHOULDEE OF LAMB BRAI8ET). 

Take the blade bone from a shoulder of 
lamb, and have ready ten • long strips of 
fat bacon, which season rather highly 
with peppei', salt, and a teaspoonful of 
chopped parsley ; place the pieces, one 
after the other, in your larding needle, 
which draw quickly through the fleshy 
part of the shoulder, leaving the bacon in 
the meat ; after having used 'all the 
bacon, roll the meat round, and tie it up 
with a piece of string ; then put it into a 
stewpan containing a quarter of a pound 
of butter, over a slow fire, stirring it oc- 
casionally until of a light golden color, 
pour in a quart of water or broth, and 
add forty button onions and a bunch of 
parsley ; let simmer very slowly until the 
onions are quite tender, then take up the 
meat, pull off the string, and dress it 
upon a dish with the onions round ; take 
the parsley out of the liquor, carefully 
skim oft' all the fat, and reduce it until 
forming a thinnish glaze, when pour it 
over the meat and serve. Mushrooms 
may be added ten minutes before sending 
to table. 

T63.— BREAST OF LAMB BRAISED, BROILED. 

Saw off the breast from the ribs of 
lamb, leaving the neck of sufficient size 
to roast, or for cutlets; then put two 
onions, half a carrot, and the same of 
turnip, cut into thin slices, in a stewpan 
with two bay-leaves, a few sprigs of pars- 
ley and thyme, half an ounce of salt, and 
three pints of water; lay in the breast, 
which let simmer until tender, and the 
bones leave with facility ; take it from 
the stewpan, pull out all the bones, and 
press it between two dishes ; when cold, 
season with a little salt and pepper, egg 
and bread-crumb it lightly over, and 
broil gent;y (over a moderate fire) of a 
nice yellowish color, turning it very care- 
fully ; when sufficiently browned upon 
one side, serve with plain gravy in the 
dish, and mint sauce separately, or with 



stewed peas or any other vegetable sauce J 
tomato sauce is likewise very good serv- 
ed with it. 

764.— LAMB'S HEAD. 
Parboil the head, rub it over with yolk 
of eggs, cover it thickly with chopped 
herbs, crumbs of bread, and clarified but- 
ter, and put it into a Dutch oven before 
the fire. Mince the heart and the liver 
very finely, and stew them in a little 
good gravy, adding a spoonful of lemon- 
pickle ; make some forcemeat-balls and 
brain-cakes, and fry them ; place the 
mince in the dish with the head upon it, 
and garnish with the balls, brain-cakes, 
and lemon sliced,' or pickles. 

765.— LAMBS FRT. 
Take about a pound and boil for ten 
minutes in half a gallon of water, take it 
out and dry on a cloth ; have some fresh 
crumbs, mix with them half a spoonful 
of chopped parsley, salt, pepper; egg 
the fry lightly with a paste-hrush. dip it 
in the crumbs, fry for five minut>-s, serve 
very hot on a clean napkin in a dish, with 
fried parsley over. 

766.— LAMB'S HEAD WITH HOLLANDAISE. 

If you want it very white, make stock 
as for sheep's feet, put it to stew, when 
done lay on dish with about twelve new 
potatoes (boiled) round it, pour over 
some cream-sauce, and serve. 

767.— LAMB'S HEAD WITH BRAIN OR 
LIVER. 

Blanch the brain or liver, and mince 
them as for sheep's head, introducing 
only the 3^ oik of an egg; mix with a 
little milk, stir in quickly, add a table- 
spoonful of chopped parslej^, the juice of 
half a lemon, lay it on the dish with the 
iiead over, and serve. 

768.- TO BONE A QUARTER OF LAMB. 

Take the fore quarter, remove the 
shoulder and take out the bone ; stuff" it 



LAMB. 



315 



with fine forcemeat, and skewer it in a 
handsome shape. Braise it with two 
ounces of butter, add a teacupful of 
water, stirring the braise until the gravy 
is drawn. Then cut the brisket into 
pieces, and stew them in white gravy ; 
thicken it with cream and eggs so that it 
shall be very white ; cut the long bones 
into chops and fry them ; thicken the 
gravy of the braise, add to it haricots, 
minced truffles, or any thing else of vege- 
table in season. Place the shoulder in 
the centre of a dish with its own sauce, 
lay the brisket covered with white sauce 
round it, and place the fried chops at the 
edge. 

769.— LAMB A LESPAGNOLE. 

An entire lamb is frequently roasted in 
the Peninsula, without any other prepa- 
ration than merely skinning it, taking out 
the fry, and cutting off the feet. It is 
then, however, extremely young — not 
more than perhaps six weeks or two 
months old; the bones eat like gristle, 
and the meat is singularly delicate. It is 
sometimes, but only rarely, stuffed with 
bread and sweet herbs, and served with 
bread-sauce ; but more frequently eaten 
with lemon-juice. 

7T0.— AU PASCAL. 

May be a httle older, and is also roast- 
ed whole, but boned from the neck up to 
the shoulders, and the legs fixed into the 
body, which is then covered with slices 
of bacon, kept on with small skewers, or 
tied with twine ; aU, however, being re- 
moved when the meat is nearly done. 
Both should be placed in a cradle-spit, 
and will take about two hours in roasting. 

771.— TO FEICASSEE LAMB-STONES WITH- 
OUT ANY ADDITION. 

Skin, wash, and parboil, and then cut 
them in half, dry and flour them ; fry of 
a beautiful brown in hog's lard. Serve 
with the following sauce : thicken some 
veal gravy with a bit of flour and butter, 



and then add to it a slice of lemon, a 
large spoonful of mushroom ketchup, a 
teaspoonful of lemon-pickle, a grate of 
nutmeg, and the yolk of an egg beaten 
well in two large spoonfuls of thick 
cream. Put this over the fire, and stir it 
well till it is hot and looks white : do not 
let it boil, or it will curdle. Then put in 
the fry, and shake it about for a minute 
or two. Serve in a very hot dish. 

772.— TO STEW A BEE AST OF LAMB. 

Cut it into pieces, pepper and salt well, 
stew in sufficient gravy to cover the 
meat until tender, then thicken the sauce, 
pour in a glass of sherry, serve on a dish 
of stewed mushrooms. 

773.— CHEVAIJX-DE-FEISE LAMB. 

Get two necks of lamb of the same 
size, take off the chine -bone, not leaving 
a particle of bone adhering to the ribs, 
or it cannot be caiTed clean down be- 
tween the bones when at table ; blanch 
them a few minutes, put them to cool, 
then scrape about one inch down from 
the ends of the ribs between each bone, 
the skin, and fat ; then put the bones to 
meet regularly, and put one between the 
other, which will form a chevaux-de-frise ; 
braise them the same as the former ; 
when done, glaze the fat and meat but 
not the white rib bones :*any of the sauces 
named or cucumbers. 

« 
774.— CHEVAUX-DE-FEISE WITH LAMB 
8WEETBEEADS. 

Do the same as before ; when it is done 
and glazed, have ready some good lamb 
sweetbreads, about six larded ones and 
glazed, put them on the top between the 
bones, when the two necks are put to- 
gether. 

775.— BLANQUETTE D'AGNEAU 1 LA PEO- 
VENgALE. 

Of the best end of the brisket take 



316 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



two or three pounds, cut it into dice of 
four inches, rinse them in clear water, 
■wipe them with a cloth, and flour them ; 
take two ounces of the fat of boiled 
bacon, five of fresh butter, chop some 
parsley, and boil ten minutes ; put in the 
lamb dice, cut up an onion small, squeeze 
in the juice of half a lemon, and season 
with pej^per and salt; let it simmer 
gradually for two hours ; beat up the 
yolk of three eggs, and add them to the 
gravy ; keep the pan moving about the 
fire for three minutes : dish and serve. 



7T6.— LAMB CHOPS. 

Lamb chops and lamb cutlets are cook- 
ed in the same manner as mutton chops 
and cutlets, but require more care in the 
cooking ; they are sent to table with va- 
rious garnishes, and arranged in many 
forms, frequently accompanied with a 
puree of vegetables, or ranged round a 
pyramid of mashed potatoes ; the most 
simple manner is to garnish with crisped 
parsley. 

T77.— ANOTHER. 

Take a loin of lamb, cut chops from it 
half an inch thick, retaining the kidney 
in its place ; dip them into egg and bread- 
crumbs, fry and serve with fried parsley. 

When chops are made from a breast of 
lamb, the red bone at the edge of the 
breast should be cut off, and the breast 
parboiled in water or broth, with a sliced 
carrot and two or three onions, before it 
is divided into cutlets, which is done by 
cutting between every second or third 
bone, and preparing them, in every re- 
spect, as the last. 

If hrotcn, season them • with pepper, 
6alt, nutmeg, grated lemon-peel, and 
chopped parsley ; but dip them first into 
egg ; fry them quickly. Thicken some 
gravy with a little flour and butter, and 
add to it a spoonful of port wine. 



7T8.-SWEETBPvEADS. 

Two good throat sweetbreads or three 
will make an entree ; blanch them until 
fit to eat, take them up and lay them in 
cold water ; when cold dry them well, 
egg and bread-crumb them with or 
without herbs-; put them on a dish and 
brown them in the oven ; mushroom 
sauce, or endives, or sorrel, or spinach, 
or tomato will do if approved of. 

779.— SWEETBREADS FRICASSEED, WHITE. 

Blanch, and cut them in slices. To a 
pint of veal gravy put a thickening of 
flour and butter, a table-spoonful of 
cream, half a toaspoonful of mushroom 
powder, grated lemon-peel and nutmeg, 
and white pepper, to flavor. Stew ten 
minutes, add the sweetbreads, let them 
simmer twenty minutes. Dish, add salt, 
thin pieces of lemon-peel ; mix up, and 
serve. 

780.— SWEETBREADS FRICASSEED, BROWN. 

Cut them in small pieces, flour, and 
fry them. When a good brown, pour 
over them a pint of good beef gravy, 
highly seasoned ; stew gently until the 
sweetbreads are tender. Add a litt'e 
flour and butter to thicken ; add trufl3es 
and nnishroom ketchup to flavor; morels 
or mushrooms may be substituted, or all 
may be cooked with the sweetbreads. 

781.— TO STEW SWEETBREADS— RIS DE 
VEAU. 

Make a forcemeat of the tendcrest 
parts of boiled or roast fowl, some bacon, 
a little parsley chopped, a little thyme, 
lemon-peel, the yolks of two eggs, cay- 
enne pepper, and nutmeg. Lay the 
sweetbreads in a pan, upon a layer of 
slices of veal, cover tliem with slices of 
bacon, put in a bunch of sweet herbs, an 
onion sliced, a little mace, and pepper 



and salt. Pour in a qnart of good broth, 
and stew for two hours ; remove them, 
and reduce by boiling the broth to a 
fourth : heat the sweetbreads in it, gar- 
nish with lemon in slices. 

782.— SWEETBREADS LARDED— A LA 
DAUBE. 

Blanch and lard them with bacon, put 
them into a stewpan with a pint of veal 
broth ; add a little browning, with the 
juice of half a lemon. Stew until ten- 
der ; thicken the gravy with a little flour 
and butter. Lay bunches of boiled cel- 
ery round the dish when you serve. 

783.— PIEDS D' AGNEAU. 

Have six lambs' feet scalded, take out 
the shank-bone very carefully, so as not 
to cut or break the skin ; soak for three 
hours in cold water ; put them in a stew- 
pan with cold water and the juice of two 
lemons ; let it boil for ten minutes, take 
out the feet, throw them into cold water, 
cut off the bones of the cleft part of the 
foot, and remove the curl of hair that 
lies in the cleft. Boil very gently for 
three or more hours in some poclee 
(which see), to keep them very white. 
Serve with asparagus, peas, and mush- 
room, or white cucumber sauce. 

784.— HEART SWEETBREADS LARDED 
WITH BACON OR TRUFFLES. 

The same quantity, either one larded 
and two plain, or two if fine larded with 
bacon ; when blanched for two or three 
minutes, put them in a small dish or 
stewpan, with a little stock ; cover them 
over, and boil them either in the oven or 
over the fire for about twenty minutes ; 
take them up and glaze them several 
times, keeping them hot ; lamb sweet- 
breads will take eight for a dish, and re- 
quire to be neatly trimmed, cutting away 
the pipe and dish them on a rim of force- 
meat or mashed potatoes, or spinach. 



785. -SWEETBREADS AS CUTLETS. 

If you cannot get heart sweetbreads, 
you must use the throat. Blanch them 
for about ten minutes, then put them to 
cool into cold water ; take thetn out and 
dry them in a cloth, then cut longways, 
twelve or fourteen pieces for cutlets, 
making them a nice shape ; if you wish 
them to be white saute cutlets, you 
must put some butter or lard in your 
cutlet-pan, a juice of lemon, a little white 
pepper, and salt ; do not color them, take 
them up and lay them upon white paper 
to soak up the grease from them ; dish 
them round upon a tureen, pouring the 
sauce in the middle. 

786.— ROAST SWEETBREAD. 

Boil sweetbreads, either heart or 
throat, trim them and dry them, then 
egg and bread-crumb them, brown them 
before the fire or in the oven ; put good 
clear gravy under them, and water- 
cresses, as a garnish. 

787.— SWEETBREAD CUTLETS— CRUMBED 
AU GRATIN. 

Cut the sweetbreads as before, a nice 
thickness, but not too thick ; dry them, 
then egg and bread-crumb theui as you 
would veal or other cutlets ; use any 
sauce that may be j)referied. 

788.— LAMB'S HEAD AND :feMINCfiES. 

Wash well a lamb's head and pluck, 
take out the brains, blanch them by 
themselves, boil the head and pluck for 
about a quarter of an hour, take it up to 
cool, take out the tongue, trim the two 
halves of the head neatly, then score it. 
then egg and bread-crumb them as 3^011 
would cutlets, and brown them in the 
oven or before the fire. Cut up in small 
dice in equal quantities, the tongue, liver, 
heart, and lights ; fry in a stewpan a 
little chopped parsley, shalot, and mush- 
room if you have it, to a nice light 



318 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



brown, dry up the butter with flour, use 
some good second stock or brown sauce ; 
season with lemon, cayenne pepper, salt, 
and a dust of sugar; put tlie emincees 
under the head, the brains, egg, and 
bread-crumb in four pieces and put 
round. 

789.— SHEEP OR LAMBS' TROTTERS. 

Get a dozen or two of trotters, stew 
them for several hours, until all the 
bones will com« from them ; save this 
liquor ; do not break the skin ; stuff them 
with good quenelles or forcemeat; re- 
turn them again into the same stock, 
boil them about fifteen minutes, glaze 
them ; soubise sauce or tomato sauce is 
good with them, or you may fry them 
with butter. 



PORK. 



The proportion of persons who are fond 
of pork to those who dislike it, are as a 
hundred to one, and yet it is falsely con- 
sidered a vulgar taste. The passion for 
it possessed by the Chinese has been il- 
lustrated by many tales, and when in 
season, the frequency of its appearance 
upon a homely English table is no small 
proof of the estimation in which it is 
held. It should be thoroughly cooked to 
place its digestibility beyond a doubt. 
In roasting, or in boiling, ample time 
should be allowed for the joint. Pork is 
always salted for boiling, and is much 
liked in this form. When sent to table 
roasted apple sauce should in every case 
accompany it. 

It is universally used in every family, 
and little used for company. 

The griskin and the sparerib are cer- 
tainly improved by being powdered with 
chopped sage, but this is all a matter of 



taste. The skin of the leg and loin must 
be scored previous to roasting ; but take 
care to preserve the skin, or eracMing, 
of a fine brown, as many persons look 
upon it to be the best part of the pork ; 
it should therefore be well basted, and 
guarded from being burned by a sheet of 
oiled paper. Send both up with a glass 
of vinegar mixed with two teaspoonfuls 
of made mustard in the dish. 

If you kill a young pig of four or five 
months, take off the skin of the fore-quar- 
ter, roast it, and serve with mint sauce 
and salad. 

790.— PORK GRISKIN 

Is usually very hard ; the best way to 
prevent this is to put it into as much 
cold water as will cover it, and let it boil 
up ; then instantly take it off, and put it 
into a Dutch oven ; a very few minutes 
will do it. Remember to rub butter over 
it, and then flour it, before you put it to 
the fire. Lay it in a dish on melted but- 
ter and mustard. It should be seasoned 
with pepper and salt before roasting. 

791.— SPARERIB 

Should be basted with a very little 
butter and a little flour, and then sprin- 
kled with dried sage crumbled. 

792.— TO ROAST A SUCKING PIG. 

A sucking pig, which should be about 
three weeks old, must be dressed as soon 
after being killed as practicable. When 
scalded and prepared for cooking, lay in 
the belly a stuffing of bread, sage and 
onions, pepper and salt, with a piece of 
butter ; sew it up, rub the skin of the pig 
with butter, skewer the legs back, that 
while roasting, the inside as well as out- 
side of the pig may be thoroughly brown- 
ed ; it must be put to a quick fire, but at 
such a distance as to roast gradually, and 
a coating of flour should be dredged over 



POEK. 



319 



it that it may not blister, or it should 
not be left a minute ; if floured, when the 
pig is done, scrape the flour off with a 
wooden, or very blunt knife, and rub it 
with a buttered cloth ; cut off the head, 
and dividing it take out the brains, mix 
them with a little gravy or bread sauce, 
divide the pig in half, from neck to tail, 
and lay each inside flat upon the dish, so 
that the two edges of the back touch ; 
place each half of the head with the outer 
side uppermost at each end of the dish, 
and an ear on each side ; the gravy should 
be poured in the dish hot, and the whole 
served as hot as possible ; as a matter of 
convenience it is often sent to the baker's 
oven ; a large piece of butter should ac- 
company it for the baker to baste it with, 
and upon its return it should be cut and 
served as above. 

The gravy may be heightened in its 
flavor by various additions, or two or 
three sauces and gravies may be served 
with it, such as veal gravy thickened and 
flavored with wine, lemOn-juice, and cay- 
enne, and also bread sauce and a plain 
gravy ; this may be a matter of taste. 

It is usual to procure the pig from the 
butcher ready prepared for cooking, but 
in the event of its being required to scald 
it after killing, we subjoin the following 
receipt. 

793.— TO SCALD A SUCKING PIG. 

Plimge the pig into cold water the in- 
stant it is killed, let it remain five min- 
utes, have ready pounded resin, and rub 
well with it over the skin, plunge it into 
a tub of scalding water, letting it remain 
only half a minute, remove it. and imme- 
diately take ofl" the hair ; lose no time, if 
the hair should not come freely fro^a 
yome parts, rub it again with resin, and 
put it into the scalding water, and then 
remove the hair. When it is all oft' wash 
it well with warm water, and then in 
cold, changing the water several times 



that no flavor of the resin may be re- 
tained ; cut off" the feet at the first joint, 
slit down the belly, and remove the en- 
trails ; put aside the heart liver and lights, 
with the feet, wash again inside and out 
the pig, dry it well, and keep it from the 
air by covering it with a cloth. 

794.— TO EOAST A PIG. CPliiladelphia.) 

Take a ,pig not more than a month old, 
remove the eyes and tongue, trim the 
ears, cut off" the feet, and clean it thor- 
oughly. Wash and dry it ; rub it well, 
inside and outside, with sage and season- 
ing of salt and cayenne pepper. Boil 
twenty good sized potatoes, mash them 
while hot, add butter, a little milk, and 
two minced onions and minced sweet 
herbs, with seasoning of salt and pepper, 
and bread-crumbs. Stuff the pig, and 
fasten the opening with skewers. Roast 
(or bake) it for three hours in a pan, 
with water sufficient to form the gravy, 
thickened with a Httle flour, and well 
stirred. Baste the pig, while roasting, 
with oil or butter, to malce it brown ; and, 
if necessary, add a little boiling water to 
the gravy. The taste of a pig roasted 
before the fire is preferable to one baked 
in an oven. 

Make the sauce of the feet, tongue, 
liver and heart. The tongue must be 
scalded and skinned, then boiled with the 
feet, liver and heart ; and when done, 
minced fine and seasoned, with the addi- 
tion of an onion, parsley and sweet herbs. 
Boil all together ; rub a little butter with 
flour, and stir it in with moi'e seasoning 
if desired, adding a glass of wine when 
the sauce is taken up. 

795.— HIND-QUARTEE OP SUCKING PIG. 

(Yorkshire Fashion.) 

Cut ofi' the skin, cover with paper, and 
roast before a quick fire about three-quar- 
ters of an hour ; ten minutes before being 
ready, remove the paper and baste it; 
serve with gravy under, and mint sauce 
and salad. 



320 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



796— ROAST PIG. 

Soak in milk some light bread, boil 
some sage and onions in plenty of water, 
strain it off and chop it all very fine, press 
the milk from the bread, and then mix 
the sage and onion with pepper and salt; 
in the bread put the yolk of an egg to 
bind it a little, put this in the inside of 
the pig, rub the pig over with milk and 
butter, paper it, roast it a beautiful brown, 
cut off the head before it is drawn from 
the spit, and likewise cut it down the 
back, and then you will not break the 
skin ; take out the spit, cut off the ears 
from the head, and crack the bone and 
take out the brains, put them in a stew- 
pan with all the inside stuffing and a lit- 
tle brown sauce ; dish the pig, the backs 
outside, and put the sauce in the middle, 
and some in a boat, the ears at each end. 

797— A LEG OF POEK ROASTED. 

The pork should be young and dairy- 
fed ; score the skin with a sharp penknife, 
a little ft'esh butter is sometimes rubbed 
over the skin to make it brown, and 
crisp without blistering. Chop some 
sage that has been scalded, very fine, add 
to it an onion parboiled, mix bread- 
crumbs and a small portion of apple chop- 
ped very fine, mix all together, season 
with pepper and salt, make an incision, 
separating the skin from the fat in the 
under and fillet end of the leg, and place 
the stuffing there ; the time of roasting 
will depend upon the size of the leg ; serve 
up with apple sauce. 

798.— A LEG OF PORK BOILED. 

After having been salted, it should be 
washed in clean cold water, and scraped 
thoroughly white and clean preparatory 
to cooking ; it should then be put into a 
floured cloth and into cold waLer on the 
fire ; when the rind is quite tender the 
pork will be done ; let the water be well 
skimmed, and serve with such vegetables 



as are in season ; should the joint be large 
allow a quarter of an hour to each pound, 
with an additional twenty minutes from 
the time it boils. 

799.— LOIN OF PORK 

Should, like the leg, be scored before 
roasting, and well jointed to make the 
chops separate easily, and then roast as 
a loin of mutton ; or it may be put into 
enough water to cover it, simmer until it 
is nearly done, then take it out, take the 
skin off, coat it well with yolk of egg 
and bread-crumbs, roast for about a quar- 
ter of an hour, until it is thoroughly 
done. 

800.— A FILLET OF PORK TO RESEMBLE 
VEAL. 

The fillet should be cut from the leg 
of a very large pig ; remove the bone 
and fill the orifice with veal stuffing; 
roast it until it is more than half done, 
then take some thin broth and put it in 
the stewpan, put in the pork, stew until 
it is thoroughly done, then thicken the 
gravy, and send it to table with force- 
meat balls and lemon cut in slices. 

801. -NECK OF PORK ROLLED. 

Bone it. chop sage finely, mix it with 
well powdered bread-crumbs, cover the 
meat with it on both sides, roll the pork, 
fasten it securely, and roast it gently. 

A hand and spring are sometimes 
dressed thus. 

802.— SPARERIB OF PORK— ROAST. 

You must paper and joint this down 
the middle, and sprinkle it with a little 
fine sage and salt ; baste and flour it 
well ; apple sauce in a boat. 

803.— SPARERIB. 

A sparerib will take two hours and a 
half to roast unless very large, and then 



PORK. 



321 



three hours will be required to cook it 
thoroughly ; while roasting baste with 
butter and dredge with flour; pound 
some sage and powder the sparerib with 
it about twenty minutes before it is done ; 
a pinch of salt may be added. 

804.— CHINE OF PORK. 

This joint is usually sent to table with 
turkey ; it should be salted for about 
sixty or seventy hours previous to cook- 
ing, and then be roasted ; it is usually 
prepared so. 

805.— LEG OF PORK. 

To Bake. — Rub it well over with salt 
and saltpetre mixed; let it lie five or 
six days in the brine ; then hang it up 
to smoke for five or six days. Take off 
the skin, put it into an earthen dish, and 
pour a little red wine over it ; stick a 
few cloves in it, or beat them to powder, 
and rub them over it. When it has 
been in the oven a short time, take some 
hard biscuit, pounded with sugar, and 
spread it all over. Serve it up with 
gravy, and port wine sauce. 

To Roast. — Choose a small leg of fine 
young pork: cut a slit in the knuckle 
with a sh|irp knife, and fill the space 
with sage and onion chopped, and a little 
pepper and salt. Score the skin in slices, 
but do not cut deeper than the outer 
rind. Put it at first a good distance 
from the fire, but baste it frequently to 
prevent its scorching : then, when about 
three parts done, rub the skin rathei- 
firmly with raw butter, after which flour 
it lightly, and put close to the fire 
to crisp the crackling. Apple sauce 
should be served with it. 

To Boil. — Salt it eight or ten days, 
turning it daily, but do not rub it after 
the first. When it is to be dressed 
weigh it : let it lie half an hour in cold 



water to make it white : allow a quarter 
of an hour for every pound, and half 
an hour over, from the time it boils up : 
skim it as soon as it boils, and frequent- 
ly after, but do not boil it fast, or it will 
be hard. Allow water enough. Save 
some of the water to make pea-soup. 
Some boil it in a cloth, floured, which 
gives a very delicate look, but destroys 
the value of the liquor for making soup. 

806.— PORK CUTLETS. 

Perhaps few things of a simple nature, 
and served in a plain way, are better 
than a hot pork chop, cut about half an 
inch thick, trimm3d neatly, and broiled 
upon the gridiron. 

Or : — Fry in salad-oil ; serve with 
sauce Robert or gherkin sauce, the gher- 
kins being shred fine into some good 
thick brown gravy. 

Or : — Marinade the cutlets four hours 
in oil with an onion in slices, parsley, 
bay-leaf, pepper, and salt ; fry them in 
the marinade ; serve with tomato sauce. 

807.— MOCK GOOSE, OR LEG OF PORK 
ROASTED WITHOUT THE SKIN. 

Parboil it, and take off the skin ; then 
put it down to roast ; baste it with but- 
ter, and make a savory powder of minced 
or dried sage, ground black pepper, salt, 
and fine bread-crumbs ; add a little very 
finely minced onion : sprinkle the leg 
with this when almost roasted ; put half 
a pint of made gravy into the dish, and 
gai-nish the dish with balls of tliis dress- 
ing fried or broiled. — {Recommended ly 
a Lady of New Yorl:) 

808.— CHINE OF PORK 

Generally used at Christmas. This, 
when properly cured, is mostly used cold ; 
boil it in a cloth, with a sauce of red 
cabbage, or sauer kraut if cold ; garnish 
with f arsley. 



322 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



809— ALL EOAST POEKS. 

Be sure to cut the skin lengthways 
into small strips, not verj' deep, to reach 
the meat ; send up apple sauce to all 
roast porks. 

810.— TO PICKLE PORK. 

Dredge it with salt, pounded nearly as 
fine as flour ; place upon four sticks cross- 
ed upon a dry cold flag-stone, or in an 
earthenware dish ; let it remain to drain 
from eighteen to twenty-four hours, 
then rub it well in with a brine, consist- 
ing of one pound of salt, half a pound 
of coarse brown sugar, two ounces of 
saltpetre, and a quarter of an ounce of 
salt prunel ; the last, if the pork is deli- 
cate, may be omitted. If many pieces 
are being salted, put them into a tub and 
pack them closely, filling up the inter- 
stices with common salt, place a weight 
upon the top to keep the meat down, as 
well as to prevent the admittance of any 
air, and when taken out for cooking, 
scrape off" the salt, wash the pork in 
several waters, or place it under a water 
tap, letting the water run upon it two 
or three minutes, turning it occasionally, 
or it may lie in soak half an hour ; it 
should be put to boil in cold water, and 
when the rind is tender it will be done 
enough. 

811.— BOILED POEK OF ALL KINDS. 

The leg you must skin the same as 
ham, and dish its back part upwards, 
and glaze it ; place a rufile at the knuckle ; 
sauce, sauer kraut, or stewed red cab- 
bage ; peas pudding to all pork when 
boiled. 

812.— PIG'S CHEEK— A HALF ONE. 

Boil and trim in the shape of ham, 
and if very fat, carve it as a cockle sliell ; 
glaze it well, or put bread-crumbs and 
brown them : sauce as before. 



813.— PIG'S CHEEK. (A new method.) 

Procure a pig's cheek nicely pickled ; 
boil well until it feels very tender, tie 
half a pint of split peas in a cloth, and 
put them into a stewpan of boiling water, 
boil about half an hour, take them out, 
pass through a hair sieve, put them into 
a stewpan with an ounce of butter, a 
little pepper and salt, and four eggs, stir 
them over the fire until the eggs are 
partially set, then spread it over the 
pig's cheek, egg with a paste-brush, sprin- 
kle bread-crumbs over, place in the oven 
ten minutes, brown it with the salaman- 
der, and serve. 

814.~PIG'S FACE FOR BREAKFAST. 

Cut the ears off", and take out the 
tongue and brains, then lay them in salt 
for two days, take them out of that, and 
then use the ingredients as for tongues, 
and dry them the same as hams. 

815.— POEK CUTLETS. 

Cut from a neck, or what is called fore- 
loin of pork, the best end, trim it as you 
do lamb or mutton, leaving a little fat ; 
scrape the bone, rub or chop some sage 
fine, with a very little piece of shalot, 
mix it up with only sufficient bread- 
crumbs, put black pepper and salt into 
the crumbs, herbs, dish eac^ cutlet in 
clarified butter or melted lard, press the 
crumbs well upon the cutlets, have a 
saute pan greased with lard, lay them 
into it, fry them a nice light brown, 
take them up and dry them on paper, 
dish upon mashed potatoes, use sauce 
Robert, or soubise, or tomato, or any 
other to taste. 

816.— PORK CUTL"ETS. 

Cut them from a small delicate loin of 
pork, bone, and trim them neatly, fry 
them a light brown, put into a small 
stewpan a little vinegar, and eschalot 
chopped very finely, two table-spoonfuls 



PORK. 



323 



of tomato sauce, and suflBcient brown 
gravy to make it tasty ; stew the cutlets 
in the sauce five minutes, and send them 
to table dished handsomely ; if the cut- 
lets are broiled they may be dipped in 
yolk of egg and bread-crumbs, and broil- 
ed over a clear fire, and served with to- 
mato sauce, or sauce Eobert. 

8ir.— PORK CHOPS OR STEAKS. 

Cut from the best end of the loin, or 
from the chump or leg if steaks; re- 
move the fat and skin, turn them fre- 
quently and quickly while broiling ; if 
your gridiron be of the old fashion, it is 
better to keep it aslant on the fire, the 
handle being the lowest part, it prevents 
very much of the fat from falling into the 
fire, the flare of which is apt to impart a 
disagreeable flavor to the chops ; this ob- 
servation applies also to mutton chops, 
and will be found useful if followed : 
sprinkle them with salt when nearly 
done, and rub with a -little fresh butter 
previous to serving ; if for a side dish gar- 
nish with crisped parsley. 

818.— PORK SAUSAGES. 

There are many receipts for the mak- 
ing of pork sausages. The peculiarity in 
sausages being the quantity and variety 
of herbs introduced, the prevalence of 
some particular one gives the flavor, as 
well as the peculiarity to each. The 
presence of so many herbs is, however, 
not always considered an agreeable fea- 
ture, and many palates are ofiended at 
that which forms to others the great 
merit. The following is a very simple 
receipt. 

Take of the fat of pork one pound, that 
of the loin of a large richly fed pig, or the 
inward fat of a small one. Chop it fine- 
ly with half a pound of lean pork ; add 
to it four or five sage-leaves finely chop- 
ped, some lemon thyme in a small quan- 
tity, and three dessert-spoonfuls of crumb 
of bread powdered ; be careful not to put 



too much of the latter, as it tends to 
turn the sausages sour if kept. Amalga; 
mate these ingredients well, dust on 
grated nutmeg, mace, and cloves in pow- 
der, and finish with black pepper and 
salt, being sure to season well ; the meat 
may then be put into the skins, or may 
be put in jars covered down from the air, 
to be used for rolls or stuffing, or any re- 
quired purpose. 

All skin must be pared from the fat 
before chopping, and every sinew re- 
moved from the lean pork, as well as 
any bone, or any thing which may im- 
pair the taste when eaten. 

819. -SAUSAGES. (Mrs. Ellis.) 

Chop fresh pork very fine, the lean and 
fat together. Then fill the skins, which 
should be previously cleaned thoroughly. 
A little flour mixed in with the meat, 
tends to prevent the fat from running 
out when cooked. Sausage-meat is good 
done up in small cakes and fried. In 
summer, when fresh pork cannot be pro- 
cured, very good sausage-cakes may be 
made of raw beef, chopped fine with salt 
pork, and seasoned with pepper and sage. 
When sausages are fried, they should not 
be pricked, and they will cook nicer to 
have a little fat put in the frvingpau with 
them. They should be cooked slowly. 
If you do not like them very fat, take 
them out of the pan when nearly done, 
and finish cooking them on a gridiron. 
Bologna sausages are made of equal 
weight each, of ham, veal, and pork, 
chopped very fine, seasoned high, and 
boiled in casings till tender, then dried. 

820.— THE UNIVERSITY RECEIPT FOE 
PORK SAUSAGES. 

To a couple of pounds of lean pork, 
young, white, and delicate, put three 
quarters of a pound of minced beef suet ; 
the pork must first be chopped very fine ; 
add three dessert-spoonfuls of bread 
which has been dipped in port wine, 



824 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



dried and grated fine ; work it together 
with the yolks of three eggs smoothly- 
beaten : season it with pepper and salt, 
and dried sage ; a very little cayenne 
may be introduced, and a tery small piece 
of garlic. "W ork the whole well together 
in a mortar until it forms a paste ; it nx&y 
then be put into wide skins, or pressed 
down into jars for future use. It is cut 
into square pieces, dredged with flour, 
fried in fresh butter, and sent to table on 
a toast as a breakfast dish. 

821.— SAUCISSES A L'ESPAGNOLE. 

Out into chops the loin of a good sized 
pig, bone it, and cut the meat into dice, 
keeping the fat and lean separate, three 
quarters of an inch square. Chop two 
corns of garlic fine, add to it black pep- 
per, Spanish pepper, and salt ; mix it well 
together, and season the meat with it : 
pour over it half a pint of an acid wine, 
and when it has been drawn in by the 
meat, add more, until the expiration of a 
week ; then lay the meat in skins, alter- 
nately fat and lean, and if any moisture 
appears to be required give a little more 
wine. Twist the skin, and tie it in the 
lengths you require, and keep them in a 
cool dry place. They may be boiled, 
fried, broiled, grilled, toasted, served with 
poultry or veal, or may be eaten with 
bread alone. 

822.— POEK SAUSAGES. 

Chop, particularly fine, about two or 
three pounds of lean pork, and an equal 
quantity of fat ; have ready some sage, 
either dry or green, either passed through 
a sieve or chopped very fine, a small 
piece of shalot, a few grains of ground 
cloves, season it with pepper and salt, 
mix a few fine bread-crumbs up with it, 
have your skins ready cleaned ; then fill 
them, or if preferred roll into balls and 
fry them ; you will tie them the length 
you wish the sausages to be, prick the 
skins with a fork before you fry them ; 



you may do them in the oven if it should 
be hot. 

823.— ANOTHER WAT. 
Chop the pork as before, only add half 
the quantity of lean veal, a pound of suet 
chopped equally fine, have ready a French . 
roll soaked in milk but no crust, season 
it well with pepper and salt, mix it all 
well together. 

824— LIVER PUDDING. 

Boil pigs' livers, mince, and season 
them with pepper, salt, and chopped 
sweet marjoram and sage, adding cloves. 
Put them in skins, prick them, and boil 
slowly an hour or so. Keep them in 
covered jars, to eat cold in slices, or to 
fry in larger pieces. Boiled pigs' feet 
may be mixed with the livers. 

825.— BOLOGNA SAUSAGES. 
To ten pounds of beef take four of 
pork ; chop and mix it. season well with 
six ounces of salt, and some black and 
cayenne pepper, cloves powdered, and 
chopped garlic. Put the mixture into 
beef skins, tie them, and put them into 
brine strong enough to bear an egg, for 
three weeks, turning them every day. 
Then dry and hang them up to smoke. 

826. -HEAD CHEESE. 

Boil the head, tongues, and feet of 
freshly-killed pigs ; taking the skin from 
the head first. When tender, chop the 
meat, season it with salt, pepper, cloves, 
minced sweet herbs, and mix thoroughly. 
Put the mixture into deep pans, press it 
down, cover it with an inverted plate, and 
place a heavy weight on the bottom of 
the plate. In three days take it out. and 
serve in slices, to be eaten with mustard 
and vinegar, at breakfast or supper. 

827.— A DIFFERENT TO A DIFFERENT 
PALATE. 

Chop pork as before, and an equal 
quantity of fat, and the quantity of lean 



PORK. 



325 



veal, and the same of suet, and two or 
three handfuls of fine bread-crumbs ; have 
ready a few sage-leaves, a few of knotted 
marjoram and one shalot ; pound all well 
together, season with white pepper and 
salt, either put them in skins or roll 
them, and fry them as above. 

828.— SPICED SAUSAGES. 
Rub well into a piece of pork some 
saltpetre, allspice, and black pepper, let it 
lie several days, rubbing it each day, then 
chop it small, and add to it two shalots 
chopped fine, have ready cleaned well an 
ox-gut, fill it with this meat quite tight, 
tie both ends firm, let it be smoked as 
hams, wrap it in a thin cloth, then let it 
be well dried ; you may tie it into what 
lengths you please before smoking; this 
will eat hot or cold. 

829.— WHITE SAUSAGES. 

Have ready some well-dried oat-meal, 
two or three onions to- boil in milk, chop 
them very fine, chop two pounds of suet 
very fine, mix about a pint of oatmeal to 
the suet, add the onions, season all with 
pepper and salt, rather predominant with 
pepper and onions, filling the skins as 
for former sausages ; if approved of add a 
few currants and boiled rice in milk to 
them. 

You may make sausages of any dressed 
meats, either chicken or rabbits ; chop 
up the meat very fine, adding onions and 
seasonings as in the above, with chop- 
ped parsley and a few grains of pounded 
mace ; add some bacon chopped instead of 
suet, mix all together with two yolks of 
eggs, a few bread crumbs and a few drops 
of lemon-juice ; fill this in the skins as 
before, and broil or fry them. 

830.— SAUCISSE3 AUX CHATAIGNES.— STEW- 
ED SAUSAGE MEAT WITH CHESTNUTS. 

Take twenty or thirty sound chest- 
nuts, roast them over a slow fire, and 
when sufficiently roasted to remove the 
21 



husk take them off, peel them, removing 
the inner skin as well as the husk, and 
put them aside sufficiently near the fire 
not to cool too readily. Cut into dia- 
monds half a dozen thin slices of sausage 
meat, and fry them brown in a little 
fresh butter. When they are a good 
color, take them out, and pour three 
parts of the butter in which they have 
been fried into a small well-tinned or 
earthenware saucepan. Thicken it while 
heating with a spoonful of flour, and 
pour in gradually a pint of good gravy, 
with a glass of old brown sherry, or two 
of Madeira. Put in a fagot of herbs, 
and season to palate, a little cayenne may 
accompany the common pepper. As 
soon as it boils, lay the sausage cakes 
round the saucepan close to the sides, 
leaving the centre clear, and in this space 
put the chestnuts. Let them stew slow- 
ly three quarters of an hour ; then dish 
them, arranging the sausage meat and 
chestnuts in the same manner as in the 
stewpan ; pour the gravy over them, re- 
moving the fagot of herbs first, and serve. 

831.— TO COLLAE A PIG'S HEAD. 
Clean thoroughly, and put it in pickle 
for a week, boil it tender, then take out the 
bones carefully, turn the upper part of 
one cheek to the snout of the other 
cheek, season them with pepper and salt, 
roll it lightly in a cloth, and secure it, 
then boil until it is very tender. Do not 
remove the cloth when done, but place it 
upon an earthenware dish, lay a heavy 
weight upon it, and unbind when cold ; if 
the cheek is a large and fat one. it will be 
improved by laying a slice or two of lean 
pork, or ham, between the cheeks before 
binding them in the cloth, 

832.— PIGS HEAD BAKED. 

Let it be divided, and thoroughly 
cleaned; take out the brains, trim the 
snout and ears, bake it an hour and a 
half, wash the brains thoroughly, blanch 



326 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



them, beat them up with an egg, pepper, 
and salt, and some finely chopped or 
pounded sage, and a small piece of butter ; 
fry them or brown tliem before the fire ; 
serve with the head. 

Pig's head is profitable to buy. It is 
often despised because cheap ; but well 
cooked, it is delicious. Well cleaned, the 
tip of the snout chopped off, and put in 
brine a week, it is in order for boiling. 
The cheeks are better than any other 
pieces of pork to bake. The head is 
good baked an hour and a half, and yields 
abundance of sweet fat for shortening. 
The butchers of Philadelphia make what 
they call scrapple out of pig's cheek, boil- 
ed and chopped very fine. The water in 
which this meat has been boiled is thick- 
ened with buckwheat and Indian meal 
boiled in it till suflSciently done. The 
meat is added. When cold, it forms cakes, 
which are sold in market — and fried in 
slices for breakfost by the purchaser. 

833.— PIG'S HEAD BOILED. 
This is the most profitable dish, though 
not so p'easant to the palate ; it should 
first be salted, which is usually done by 
the pork butcher ; it should be boiled an 
hour and a qunrter, it must boil gently 
or the meat will be hard ; serve with 
vegetables. 

834— PETTITOES. 

Put them in just sufficient water to 
cover them, add the heart and liver, boil 
them ten minutes, take out the liver and 
heart, and mince them small, and return 
them to the feet, stew until quite tender, 
thicken with flour and butter, season 
with pepper and salt, serve up with sip- 
pets of plain bread, or toasted bread ; 
make a pyramid of the minced heart and 
liver, and lay the feet round them. 
,4 _ When pettitoes are fried, they should 
be first boiled, then dipped in butter, and 
fried a light brown. 



835.— PIGS' FEET A LA ST. M:feN:6nOUI.D. 

Clean the feet perfectly, cut them down 
in two, then bind them with a tape to 
prevent their shrinking or opening, and 
boil them gently until they are rather 
soft, with carrots, onions, parsley, thyme, 
allspice, and bay-leaf; let them cool in the 
liquor. When required for use. take oif 
the tape, dip them in yolks of eggs and 
butter about three parts melted; season 
them, then cover them with crumbs of 
bread and finely minced parsley, with the 
smallest quantity of shalot. Broil them 
until highly browned, and serve dry, or 
with sauce Robert. 

836.— SOUSj!i. 

Take pigs' feet, ears, &c., well cleaned, 
simmer four or five hours, till they are 
too tender to be taken out with a fork. 
Take from the boiling water and put 
them into cold water. Boil the jelly- 
like liquor in which they were cooked, 
with an equal quantity of vinegar ; add 
cloves, allspice, cinnamon, and sufficient 
salt to the souse, pack it down tight, and 
put the liquor over it. 

837.— SOUSE. 

Take pigs' ears and feet, clean them 
thoroughly, then soak them in salt and 
water, for several days. Boil them ten- 
der and split them, they are then good 
fried. If you wish to souse them when 
cold, turn boiling vinegar on them, spice 
with peppercorns and mace. Cloves im- 
prove the taste, but turn them a dark 
color. Add a little salt. They will keep 
good pickled five or six weeks. Fry 
them in lard. 

838.— PIGS' FEET STEWED. 

. Clean, split, and boil tender, put them 
into a stewpan with enough gravy to 
cover them, an onion sliced, a few sage 
leaves, whole black pepper, allspice, and 
salt ; stew forty minutes, strain off the 



gravy, thicken with flour and butter, add 
two spoonfuls of vinegar or one dessert- 
spoonful of lemon pickle ; serve it up 
with the feet. 

889.— PIGS' FEET AND EAES FRIED. 

They must be well cleaned, and boiled 
Tintil tender, and laid in vinegar and 
water, with salt in it, until they are re- 
quired for use ; to prepare them for cook- 
ing, cut the feet in two, slice the ears, 
dip them in butter, dredge with flour, 
fry a nice color, and serve with melted 
butter and lemon pickle. 

840.— PIGS' HAESLET 

Is made with the liver and sweetbreads, 
which must be well cleaned; add to 
them pieces of pork both fat and lean, 
chop finely sage and onions, season with 
pepper and salt, and mix with the pre- 
ceding ; put them in a cowl, tie it closely, 
and roast. It may also be baked. Serve 
with a sauce of port wine and water and 
mustard, just boiled up, and put it into 
the dish. 

841.— BAKED FAGOTS. 
Having procured your pig's-fry, (the 
quantity to be regulated by the size of 
family.) wash and set it on the fire, in a 
saucepan, with just sufficient water to 
cover ; add a bunch of sage, and four or 
five onions; let all boil ten minutes; 
take out the meat, and cut in slices ; then 
take out the sage and onions, and chop 
it all finely together ; season with pepper 
and salt ; cut the caul in pieces, and fill 
with the meat about the size of an or- 
dinary teacup , place them on a tin and 
bake in a moderate oven ; do not throw 
away the water it was boiled in, but boil 
it down to a sufficient quantity to serve 
with the fagots as gravy. 

842.— WHITE PUDDINGS 

Are made with beef suet and oatmeal. 



flavored and seasoned. Take a pound 
and a half of beef suet, chop it very 
fine, and, having boiled a pound of oat- 
meal, tightly wedged down in a small 
white basin closely covered with a cloth 
for five hours, scrape it into powder, and 
mix it with the suet, two small onions 
boiled and chopped fine, and season well 
with white pepper and salt ; a small quan 
tity of thyme and marjoram may be add- 
ed at pleasure. Boil them an hour. 
Like all sausages they must be pricked 
while cooking, to suffer the hot air gene- 
rated to escape, or they will burst. 

84-3.— BLACK PUDDINGS. 

Stir three quarts of sheep's blood with 
one spoonful of salt till cold, boil a 
quart of grits in sufficient water to 
swell them, drain, and add them to the 
blood with a pound of suet, a little 
pounded nutmeg, some mace, cloves, and 
allspice ; a pound of the hog's fat cut small, 
some parsley finely minced, sage, sweet 
herbs, a pint of bread-crumbs, salt, and 
pepper ; mix these ingredients well to- 
gether, put them into well cleaned skins, 
tie them in finks, and prick the skins, 
that while boiling they may not burst. 
Let them boil twenty minutes, and cover 
them with clean straw until they are 
cold. 

844 -BLACK AND "WHITE PUDDINGS. 

Procure the pig's blood, then add half 
a pound of half-boiled rice, set it to cool 
keeping it stirred , take a little more rice 
boiled in milk, add it to the blood, cut 
up about one pound of fat pork into 
large dice, melt half a pound of lard and 
pour into the blood and rice, then add 
your fat, with a few bread-crumbs, three 
shalots, a little parsley, some black pep- 
per, cayenne pepper, and salt; mix all 
well together, then fill into skins as be- 
fore ; tie them the length you wish them, 
then boil them a quarter of an hour, take 



them out and lay them on some new 
clean straw until cold, then give them 
another boil for a few minutes, then turn 
them as before until wanted ; put them 
in the oven when you require them, or 
fry them or broU them. 

845. -TO MELT LAED. 

Take the inner fat of a newly killed 
pig and strip off the skin completely and 
carefully, slice it and put it into a jar, a 
sprig of rosemary may be placed with it, 
and set the jar in a pan of boiling water ; 
let it melt, and when perfectly fluid 
pour it into dry clean jars, and cover 
them closely ; it may be kept some time 
in a dry place, and when used may be 
mixed with butter for pastry, for frying 
fish, and many other purposes in cook- 
ing. 

846.— HOG'S LAED 

Should be carefully melted in a jar 
put into a kettle of water and boiled: 
run it into bladders that have been ex- 
tremely well cleaned. The smaller they 
are the better the lard keeps, as, after 
the air reaches it, it becomes rank. 
Put in a sprig of rosemary when melt- 
ing. 

This being a most useful article for 
frying fish, it should be prepared with 
care. Mixed with butter, it makes fine 
crust for tarts. 

847.— HAMS— BOILED HAM. 

The ham should be soaked about 
twelve hours, then wrapped in a clean 
cloth, and laid upon stone flags for two 
days, the cloth being kept moistened 
with c'ean soft water ; this will render 
it tender when cooked ; let it be thor- 
oughly scraped and cleaned, and placed 
in the kettle, which in small families 
will be found the most convenient mode 
of cooking it ; they should be put in suf- 
ficient water to cover them, which water, 



when the ham is cooked, will be found 
of the greatest service in making stocks 
for soups ; the time it will require to 
boil will depend upon the weight of the 
ham : a small one three hours and a 
half, which may progress according to 
the weight to six hours ; when it is done 
remove the skin, if possible, without 
breaking it, it prevents the ham when 
cold becoming dry ; spread over the ham 
bread-raspings, the dish should be gar- 
nished with sliced boiled carrots. 

Si8.— TO COOK A HAM. 

An excellent manner of cooking a ham 
is the following: Boil it three or four 
hours, according to size ; then skin the 
whole and fit it for the table ; then set 
in the oven for half an hour, cover it 
thickly with pounded rusk or bread- 
crumbs, and set back for half an hour 
longer. Boiled ham is always improved 
by setting it in an oven for nearly an 
hour, until much of the fat dries out, 
and it also makes it more tender. 

849.— HAM, TO BOIL IN A 8UPEEI0E WAT. 

Parboil the ham, then allow it to re- 
main in the water all nighty and finish 
boiling the next day, so as to be in time 
for dishing up; skim, and dust with 
raspings, the same as directed before, and 
you will have a moie tender ham than 
one dressed almost any other way. 

860.— ECONOMICAL DISH. 

Cut some pretty fat ham or bacon into 
slices, and fry of a nice brown ; lay them 
aside to keep warm ; then mix equal 
quantities of potatoes and cabbage, 
bruised well together, and fry them in 
the fat left from the ham. Place the 
mixture at the bottom, and lay the 
slices of bacon on the top. Cauliflower 
or broccoli, substituted for cabbage is 
truly delicious, and, to any one possess- 
ing a garden, quite easily procured — as 



POEK. 



329 



those newly blown will do. The dish 
must be well seasoned with pepper. 

851. -TO CUKE A HAM. 

For a ham of sixteen pounds, take a 
pound and a half of common salt, with 
an ounce of saltpetre. Leave it some 
days, then put in one pound of molas- 
ses ; let the ham lie a month in the 
pickle ; then hang it up. 

852.— PEACTICAL HOUSEWIFE'S CHRIST- 
MAS HAM. 

Soak the ham. be the weight whatever 
it may, half the usual time in water ; 
remove, wash well with cold water, place 
in a pan large and deep enough to con- 
tain it, cover with beer or good ale, and 
let it remain until the required time for 
soaking a ham of the size used has ex- 
pired. Boil as usual until the skin can 
be readily removed ; then place the ham 
in a tin or an earthenware dish, and 
cover with a common flour and water 
paste, or surround with batter. Bake 
in a moderately heated oven until done, 
remove the paste or batter, cover with 
bread-raspings, and serve hot. 

Cooked in this manner, a ham acquires 
the most delicious flavor. 

863.— HAMS. 

Skimmed milk, or milk and water, will 
be found preferable to plain water for 
soaking hams ; and they may also be 
boiled in milk and water. 

Where vegetables are plentiful, it is 
desirable to boil ham with three heads of 
celery, a couple of turnips, half a dozen 
small onions, and a large bunch of sweet 
marjoram, thyme, &c., put in after the pot 
has been skimmed. These will extract 
the salt and soften the meat. A piece of 
coarse fresh beef, or any kind of meat, in 
addition, will materially improve the ham, 
as, in this manner of boiling it, the juices 
of the meat and vegetables insinuate 



themselves between the fibres of the ham, 
after having dislodged the salt, by which 
means the meat is enriched and rendered 
tender. At first sight this will appear 
an extravagant way of boiling a ham, 
but it should be considered that the 
broth will serve the purposes of the 
family." If the meat and vegetables are 
not approved, two pounds of fresh beef 
diipping will answer nearly as well. 

854— TO BOIL. 

If long hung, soak it for twenty-four 
hours in lukewarm water, changing it 
frequently. Wash and brush it well: 
trim off any rusty parts ; put it into a 
boiler of water, and let it simmer from 
three hours and a half to five hours, ac- 
cording to its size. It is best to allow 
time enough, as it is easy to take up the 
ham when done, and keep it hot over 
boiling water, covered closely. Take off" 
the skin as whole as you can, as it keeps 
the cold ham moist when skewered on 
again after dinner. 

There can be no doubt that the fore- 
going is an excellent mode of hoiling a 
ham, but many people prefer to have it 
laJced, in which case send it to the oven 
in a deep pan, with half a pound of suet 
over it to baste it occasionally ; or skin 
it, cover it with a crust of coarse paste, 
and, when taken from the bakehouse, 
strip off* the crust, rub it with yolk of 
egg, on which put finely powdered crumbs 
of bread strewed with a dredging-box, in 
the same manner as when the ham is 
boiled. 

In Spain and Portugal, where the hams 
are generally fine, the method of dressing 
them is to put the ham in cold water with 
a large handful of brown sugar, to which 
some persons add a quantity of the com- 
mon country wine, and let it simmer on 
the fire until parboiled, keeping the pot 
well skimmed ; when taken out, the skin 
is stripped off, and the ham covered with 
brown sugar to the thickness of an inch, 



after which it is sent to the oven and 
baked until thoroughl}' done. 

A ham of fifteen pounds should be al- 
lowed nearly two hours before the water 
begins to boil, and as much more for sim- 
mering until half done ; then from three 
to four hours' baking, according to the 
heat of the oven, which however should 
never be allowed to be too hot. 

When cold, twist some neatly fringed 
letter-paper round the shank-bone. 

655.— TO EOAST. 

Take a very fine ham (a Westphalia, if 
you can procure it), soak it in lukewarm 
water for a day or two, changing the 
water frequently. The day before you 
intend to cook it, take the ham out of the 
water, and, having removed the skin, trim 
it nicely, and pour over it a bottle of an 
inferior white wine ; let it steep till next 
morning, frequently during the day wash- 
ing the wine over it ; put it in a cradle- 
spit in time to allow at least six hours 
for slowly roasting it ; baste with hot 
water continually. When done, dredge 
it with fine bread raspings, and brown 
before the fire. 

856.— SPRING, OE FOEEHAND OF PORK. 

Cut out the bone; sprinkle salt, pep- 
per, and sage dried, over the inside ; but 
first warm a little butter to baste it, and 
then flour it; roll the pork tight, and tie 
it ; then roast b}' a hanging jack. About 
two hours will do it. 

857.— HAM GRAVY. 

Take the wine in which the ham was 
steeped, and add to it the essence or juice 
which flowed fiom the meat when taken 
from the ispit ; squeeze in the juice of two 
lemons ; put it into a sauce[)an, and boil 
and skim it ; send it to table in a boat. 
Cover the shank of the ham (which 
should have been sawed short) with 
bunches of double parsley, and ornament 
it with any garnish you may think proper. 



858.— TO BOIL MUTTON HAM. 
Put it on the fire in cold water ; let it 
warm quickly, and allow it to boil only 
twenty minutes ; then leave it in the pan 
of water till cold. This plan renders it 
moist, and answers when it is to be eaten 
cold. 

859. -HAM AND EGGS FRIED. 

Cut some nice slices of ham, put them 
in a frying-pan ; cover them with hot 
water, and set the pan over the fire. Let 
it boil up once or twice ; then take out 
the slices and throw out the water ; put 
a bit of lard in the pan ; dip the slices in 
wheat flour or finely rolled crackers, and 
when the fat is hot, put them into the 
pan ; sprinkle a little pepper over ; when 
both sides are a fine brown, take them on 
a steak dish ; put a little boiling water into 
the pan and put it in the dish with the 
meat. Now put a bit of lard the size of 
a large egg into the pan ; add a salt-spoon- 
ful to it ; let it become hot ; break six or 
eight eggs carefully into a bowl ; then 
slip them into the hot lard ; set the pan 
over a gentle fire. When the white be- 
gins to set, pass a knife-blade, so as to 
divide an equal quantity of white to each 
yolk ; cut it entirely through to the pan, 
that they may cook the more quickly. 
When done, take each one up with a 
skimmer spoon, and lay them in a chain 
around the edge of the meat on the dish. 
Fried eggs should not be turned in the 
pan. 

Spinach boiled and pressed free from 
water, and chopped small, may be put on 
the centre of a steak dish ; lay the fried 
ham on it ; pour the gravy over ; place 
the fried eggs around it. Vinegar may 
be eaten with the spinach. 

860.- POACHED EGGS WITH FRIED HAM. 

Fry the ham as above directed ; take a 
clean frjdng or omelette-pan ; nearly fill 
it with boiling water; set it over a gentle 
fire ; break the eggs singly into a cup, and 



slip each into the boiling water; cover 
the pan for four or five minutes. When 
done, take them up with a skimmer on 
to a dish ; sprinkle a little pepper and salt 
over ; add a small bit of butter, and sei^e 
in a dish or over the ham. 

861.— TO CUKE HAMS. 

[The lady from whom this receipt is 
procured, prides herself much on her 
curing ; and often when asked her opinion 
of a ham at the houses of her friends — 
speaking well of what is before her, will 
add, " It is not like hams of my oicn 
curing, of course ; but very nice," &c.] — 
Editor. 

One ounce of saltpetre, one ounce of 
allspice, one ounce of cayenne pepper, one 
pound of brown sugar, one pound of salt, 
for every two hams ; mix and rub well 
over the hams for three or four days, lay- 
ing them with the skin down in the tub 
in which you mean to keep them. Then 
make a pickle strong enough to bear an 
egg, of cold water and salt : add to the 
pickle about a pound of sugar, and one 
ounce of saltpetre ; if for sixteen hams, 
less in proportion. After lying three 
weeks in pickle the hams will be fit to 
smoke. After the hams come out, I al- 
ways put in the pickle some plate pieces, 
rumps and rounds of beef ; so that nothing 
is wasted. 

862.— TO CURE HAMS. 

Pound some rock salt, saltpetre, and 
common salt, and some coarse brown 
sugar, mix it all well together, then put 
it all to get hot, and while hot rub the 
hams well with this, repeating it every 
morning for a week ; let them lie in the 
brine for another week, until all is well 
incorporated in the meat ; then take them 
out to drain on dishes, flour them and 
hang them up to dry ; you must be 
guided a good deal by the size of the 
hams. 

The Virginia method of curing hams, 



(which is considered very superior,) is to 
dissolve two ounces of saltpetre, two tea- 
spoonfuls of saleratus, in a salt pickle, as 
strong as possible ; for every sixteen 
pounds of ham, add molasses in the pro- 
portion of one gallon to a hogshead of 
water, then put in the hams and let them 
remain three or four weeks. Then take 
them out of the brine and smoke them 
with the hocks downward, to preserve 
the juices. They will smoke tolerably 
well in the course of a month ; but they 
will be much better to remain in the 
smoke-house two or three months. Hams 
cured in this manner are well flavored, 
and will keep a long time. 

863.— TO RESTORE PORK. 
•In warm weather, the brine on pork 
frequently becomes sour and the pork 
tainted. Boil the brine, skim it well, and 
pour it back on the meat boiling hot. 
This will restore it even when it is much 
injured. 

864.-TONGUES 
You will first lay in salt ; then use the 
same hot preparations daily ; about ten 
days will do for the tongues ; sheep's 
tongues may be done the same, but less 
time. 
865.— ANOTHER RECEIPT TO CURE HAM. 
Let the ham hang for three days, 
sprinkle it well during the time with salt. 
Make a pickle of eight ounces of rock salt, 
an equal quantity of common salt, two 
ounces of saltpetre, the same of black 
pepper, half a pound of common brown 
sugar, and a quart of beer ; boil it, pour 
hot' upon the ham, turn it every day in 
the pickle for three weeks, wipe it as dry 
as possible, and bury it in bran. Smoke 
it for a month over wood smoke ; it must 
be sewed in a coarse strong wrapper. 

866.— TO BAKE A HAM. 
Put the ham in soak previous to dress- 
ing it; if an old one, two hours will be 



832 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



required, but if not very old, an hour will 
suffice. Wipe it very dry, and cover it 
with a paste about an inch in thickness. 
The edges being first moistened must be 
drawn together and made to adhere, or 
the gravy will escape. Bake it in a re- 
gular well heated oven ; it will take from 
three to six hours, according to its weight ; 
when done remove the paste, and then the 
skin. This must be done while the ham 
is hot. If well baked and not too salt, 
it will prove of finer flavor than if boiled. 

867.— TO MAKE HAM 9UPEEI0E TO WEST- 
PHALIA. (Ude.) 

As soon as the pig is cold enough to be 
cut up, take the two hams, and cut out 
the round bone, so as to have the ham 
not too thick: rub them with common 
salt, and leave them in a large pan for 
three days ; when the salt has drawn out 
all the blood, throw the brine away, and 
proceed as follows : for two hams of 
about eighteen pounds each, take one 
pound of moist sugar, one pound of com- 
mon salt, and two ounces of saltpetre, 
mix them together, and rub the hams 
well with it, then put them into a vessel 
large enough to contain them in the 
liquor, always keeping the salt over them ; 
after they have been in this state three 
days, throw over them a bottle of good 
vinegar. One month is requisite to cure 
them ; during which period they must be 
often turned in the brine ; when you take 
them out, drain them well, powder them 
with some coarse flour, and hang them in 
^ dry place. The same brine will serve 
again, except that you must not put so 
much salt on the next hams that you 
pickle. If the hams are smaller put only 
three-quarters of a pound of salt, but the 
salt will not do any harm if you do not 
let them remain too long in the brine ; 
if you can get them smoked, they are 
then not so subject to be infested by ver- 
min; no insect whatever can bear the 
bitterness of the soot; the smoke of 



wood is preferable to the smoke of coal. 
Be particular that the hams are hung as 
far as possible from the fire, otherwise 
the fat will melt, and they will become 
dry and hard and rank. 

868.— TO BEAISE A HAM IN THE FEENCH 
FASHION. 

It is prepared for cooking in the same 
manner as in the preceding receipt, but 
when cleaned it is placed upon a layer 
of new hay, which has previously been 
laid evenly upon a clean white cloth, 
which should also be thin, that the flavor 
of the braise may be imparted. 1 1 is then 
placed in a stewpan, with two parts water 
to one part vin ordinaire, or any light 
white wine, and suflered to come to a boil. 
The scum must be removed, and then 
vegetables added ; four carrots, three 
onions, a fagot of herbs, and, if approved, 
a little corn of garlic, perhaps less of that 
powerfully flavored root. Simmer from 
three hours and a half to six, according 
to the weight ; when tender it is enough. 
The skin should then be stripped off 
cai-efuUy, and bread raspings strewed 
over it. Powdered herbs, or parsley 
chopped very fine, are sometimes mixed 
with the raspings, but taste must regulate 
its admission or omission. 

869.— TO BEAISE A HAM. 

Put the ham into water the night pre- 
vious to cooking, and next day wash it in 
warm water, trim it by cutting away all 
the yellow fat and rusty parts ; take off 
the knuckle, and pare down all the under 
part ; put it in a stewpan, and just cover 
it with water ; lay in a shce of beef cut 
into pieces, a few onions, a fagot of 
sweet herbs, three small carrots, and a 
little allspice ; simmer from three to six 
hours ; it must depend entirely upon the 
size and weight. Take out the ham, and 
skin it ; glaze, and serve it upon a pur^e 
of vegetables. The braise may be made 
into a rich brown soup, thickened and 



flavored with wine ; it may serve also for 
the flavoring of soups. 

8T0.— HAM KA8HEES OE SLICES 

May be toasted, broiled, or fried. May 
be served with spinach and poached eggs. 
or boiled green peas. Stewed with green 
peas, or cut in thin slices, divided in four 
pieces, each piece rolled and fastened with 
a skewer, roasted in a Dutch oven, and 
served with peas. They should in all 
cases be cut an even thickness, and cooked 
without injuring the color. Bacon may 
be dressed in tlie same manner. 



871. 



-TO CURE BACON.— COBBETTS 
RECEIPT. 



The two sides that remain, and which 
are called Ji itches, are to be cured for ba- 
con. They are first rubbed with salt on 
their insides, or flesh sides, then placed 
one on the other, the flesh sides upper- 
most, in a salting trough which has a gut- 
ter round its edges to drain away tlie 
brine, for to have sweet and fine bacon, 
the flitches must not be sopping in brine, 
which gives it the sort of taste that bar- 
rel pork and sea pork have, and than 
which nothing is more villanous; every 
one knows how different is the taste of 
fresh dry salt from that of salt in a dis- 
solved state, therefore change the salt 
often, once in four or five days ; let it 
melt and sink in, but let it not lie too 
long ; change the flitches, put that at bot- 
tom which was first on the top, do this 
a couple of times ; this mode will cost 
you a great deal more in salt than the 
sopping mode, but without it your bacon 
will not be so sweet and fine, nor keep so 
well. As for the time required in making 
your flitches sufficiently salt, it depends 
on circumstances, the thickness of the 
flitch, the state of the weather, the place 
wherein the salting is going on ; it takes 
a longer time for a thick than a thin 
flitch; it takes longer in dry than in 
damp weather ; it takes longer in a dry 



than in a damp place ; but for the flitches 
ot a hog of five score, in weather not very 
dry or damp, about six weeks may do • 
and as vours is to be fat, which receives 
little injury from over salting, give time 
enough, for you are to have bacon until 
Christmas comes again. 

The place for salting should, like a 
dairy, always be cool, but always admit 
of a free circulation of air ; confined air, 
though cool, will taint meat sooner than 
the mid-day sun accompanied by a breeze. 
With regard to smoking the bacon, two 
precautions are necessary : first, to hang 
the flitches where no rain comes down 
upon them, and next, that the smoke 
must proceed from wood, not peat, turf, 
nor coal. As to the time it requires to 
smoke a flitch, it must depend a good deal 
upon whether there be a constant fire 
beneath, and whether the fire be large or 
small ; a month will do if the fire be 
prett}' Constant, and rich as a farm-house 
fire usually is; but over-smoking, or 
rather too long hanging m the air. makes 
the bacon mist; great attention should 
therefore be paid to this matter. The 
flitch ought not to be dried up to the 
hardness of a board, and yet it ought to 
be perfectly dry ; before you hang it up 
lay it on the flooi", scatter the flesh side 
pretty thickly over with bran, or with 
some fine sawdust, not of deal or Jir ; 
rub it on the flesh, or pat it well down 
upon it ; this keeps the smoke from get- 
ting into the little openings, and mal.es 
a sort of crust to be dried on. 

To keep the bacon sweet and goofl, 
and free from hoppers, sift fine somo clean 
and dry wood ashes. Put some at the 
bottom of a box or chest, long enough to 
hold a flitch of bacon. Lay in one flitch, 
and then put in more ashes, then another 
flitch, and cover this with six or eight 
inches of the ashes. The place where 
the box or chest is kept ought to be dri;, 
and should the ashes become damp, they 
should be put in the fire-place to dry, and 



334 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



when cold put back again. With these 
precautious, the bacon will be as good at 
the end of the year, as on the first day. 

It may be as well to observe in refer- 
ence to the above receipt, given by the 
very celebrated WiUiam Cobbett, in his 
Cottage Economy, that most counties in 
England have their peculiar method of 
•curing hams and bacon, each varying in 
some slight degree from the other, and, 
of course, each is considered orthodox. 
But for simple general rules, the above 
may be safely taken as a guide ; and those 
who implicitly follow the directions given, 
will have at the expiration of from six 
weeks to two months, well flavored, and 
well cured bacon. 

872.— TO CURE BACON FOR LARDING. 
It is of little use preparing a small piece 
of bacon for larding, for different joints 
require lardings of different lengths ; a 
piece of beef, for example, will, if of a 
tolerable size, require very lengthy lard- 
ings, as a fowl will require but small ones. 
Ten to twenty pounds should at least be 
prepared. Take fifteen pounds, and the 
ftitter it is the better ; rub it well with a 
pound and a half of pounded common 
salt ; if in one piece, lay it upon a board 
with another over it ; if in more than 
one piece, let each piece have a board 
with a weight at the top ; keep it in a 
cool place four or five weeks ; hang it to 
dry but not to be smoked. 

873.— TO BOIL BACON. 

If very salt, soak it in soft water two 
hours before cooking. Put it into a 
saucepan with plenty of water, and let it 
boil gently ; if two or three pounds, it 
\\ill take from an hour to an hour and a 
quarter: if larger, an hour and forty 
minutes will suffice. If a fine piece of 
tlie gammon of bacon, it may when done 
have the skin, as in hams, stripped off, 
and have finely powdered bread raspings 
strewed over it. It will improve the ap- 
pearance when sent to table. I 



8T4.— BACON, TO BROIL. 

Mate up a sheet of paper in the shape 
of a dripping-pan, cut your bacon into 
thin slices, cut off the rind, lay the bacon 
on the paper, put it over the gridiron, 
set it over a slow fire, and it will broil 
clearly. 

875.— BACON, TO MAKE. 

Rub the bacon with a little common 
salt, and let them lie till the brine runs 
from them ; in a week rub off all the salt, 
and put them in a tub, then rub into the 
flitches a pound of saltpeti'e pounded and 
heated, the next day do the same with 
common salt, also heated ; let them lie a 
week, often rubbing them ; do the same 
for three weeks or a month, at the end 
of that time dry and hang them up for 
use. 

876.— BACON AND CABBAGE. 

Boil some fine streaked part of bacon 
with a little stock, and the ends of eight 
or ten sausages, boil in the same stock 
some white cabbages for two hours ; add 
salt and spice, and serve very hot ; place 
your sausages and cabbage round your 
dish, and the bacon in the middle. 

877.— MOCK BRAWNS. 

Put four feet, two ears, and two chops 
of a pig into two quarts of water, and let 
it boil for several hours, till the bones can 
be picked from the meat ; then pour it 
into a basin ; skim off the fat, and take 
away all the bones ; put it again into a 
saucepan witli a little chopped parsley 
and sweet herbs, dried and rubbed small, 
cayenne pepper, salt, and pounded mace, 
let it boil for ten minutes ; dip a mould 
into cold water, pour in the mixture ; let it 
get cool ; turn out, and garnidh with 
parsley and barberries, or slices of lemon. 

878.— EXCELLENT SAUSAGE CAKES. 

Chop some lean pork very fine, having 
previously detached all the skin and 



PORK. 



335 



bone, and to every pound of meat add 
three-quarters of a pound of fat bacon, 
half an ounce of salt, a salt-spoonful of 
pepper, the quarter' of a nutmeg grated, 
six young green chopped onions, and a 
little chopped parsley ; when the whole 
is well chopped, put into a mortar and 
pound well, finishing with three eggs ; 
then have ready a pig's caul, which cut 
into pieces large enough to fold a piece 
of the above preparation the size of an 
egg, which wrap up, keeping the shape 
of an egg, but rather flattened, and broil 
very gently over a moderate fire. 

879.— PIGS' FEET. (Soyer.) 

Procure six pigs' feet nicely salted, 
which boil in water, to which you have 
added a few vegetables, until well done, 
cut each one in halves, take out the long- 
bone, have some sausage-meat as in the 
last, and a pig's caul, which cut into 
pieces eich large enough to fold half a 
foot, well surrounded with sausage-meat ; 
when well wrapped up broil slowly half 
an hour over a moderate fire, and serve. 
Or, when the pigs' feet are well broiled, 
egg over, and throw them into some 
gi'ated crust, of bread, with which you 
have mixed a little parsley, broil a nice 
color, and serve with a little plain gravy. 
This is called a la Ste. Menehould. 

880.— PIGS' KIDNEYS. 

Cut them open lengthwise, season well 
with pepper and salt, egg over with a 
paste brush, dip into bread-crumbs, with 
which you have mixed some chopped 
parsley and eschalot, run a skewer 
through to keep them open, and broil for 
about a quarter of an hour over a good 
lire ; when done place them upon a dish, 
have ready an ounce of butter, with 
which 3^ou have mixed the juice of a 
lemon, a little pepper and salt, and a tea- 
spoonful of French or common mustard ; 
place a piece upon each of the kidneys, 



place in the oven for one minute, and 
serve. Pigs' kidnej'^s may also be sauted 
as directed for ox kidneys. 

DISHES PR03I THE REMAINS OF PORK. 
881.— HASHED PORK. 

Put t^io spoonfuls of chopped onions 
into a stewpan, with a wineglas-ful of 
vinegar, two cloves, a blade of mace, and 
a bay-leaf; reduce to half, take out the 
spice and bay-leaf, add half a pint of 
broth or water, cut some pork previously 
cooked into thin, small slices, season v.ell 
upon a dish with pepper and salt, shake 
a good teaspoonful of flour over, mix all 
together, and put into the stewpan ; let 
simmer gently ten minutes, pour out 
upon your dish, and serve with slices of 
gherkins in it ; a little mustard may be 
added, if approved of or a little picc;i!illy 
with the vinegar is excellent. 

The remains of salt pork, though very 
palatab'e cold, if required hot, may be 
cut into large thin slices, and placed in a 
buttered saute or fryingpan, with a little 
broth, or merely fried in the butter, and 
served with a puree of winter peas, made 
by boiling half a pint of peas until ten- 
der (tied up in a cloth); when done, put 
them into a stewpan with two ounces of 
butter; season with pepper and salt, add 
a gill of milk or cream, pour into the 
dish, and dress the pork over. 

It may also be cut into thin slices and 
put into a soup i)late, and pour some 
ketchup or Harvey sauce over it, and let 
it remain for half an hour ; butter the 
inside of a pudding basin, and lay some 
of the remains of peas pudding round it, 
and then place in the pork, cover it with 
some of the pudding, place it in a sauce- 
pan with a little water to get hot, for 
about half an hour, and then turn it out 
and serve. Should you not have quite 
pork enough, you may make it up with 
a little sausage-meat or any other kind 
of meat. 



336 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK, 



882.— FEITADELLA. (Twenty receipts in one.) 
Put half a pound of crumb of bread 
to soak in a pint of cold water, take the 
same quantity of any kind of roast or 
boiled meat, with a little fat, chop it up 
like sausage-meat, then put your bread 
in a clean cloth, press it to extract all 
the water, put into a stewpan two ounces 
of butter, a table-spoonful of chopped 
onions, fry for two minutes, then add the 
bread ; stir with a wooden spoon until 
rather dry, then add the meat, season 
with a teaspoonful of salt, half the same 
of pepper, a little grated nutmeg, the 
same of lemon-peel, stir continually until 
very hot ; then add two eggs, one at a 
time, well mix together, and pour on a 
dish to get cold. Then take a piece as 
big as a small egg, and roll it to the 
same shape, flatten it a little, egg and 
bread-crumb over, keeping the shape ; do 
all of it the same way ; then put into a 
saute-pan, a quarter of a pound of lard, 
or clean fat, or oil ; 'when hot, but not 
too m.uch so, put in the pieces, and saute 
a very nice 3'ellow color, and serve very 
hot, plain, on a napkin, or on a border of 
mashed potatoes, with any sauce or gar- 
niture you fancy. These can be made 
with the remains of any kind of meat, 
poultry, game, fish, and even vegetables ; 
hard eggs, or cold mashed potatoes may 
be introduced in small quantities, and 
may be fried instead of sauted, in which 
case put about two pounds of fat in the 
frying-pan, and if care is used it will do 
several times. This is an entirely new 
and very economical and palatable dish, 
and fit for all seasons, and if once tried 
would be often repeated ; the only ex- 
pense attending it is the purchase of a 
small wire sieve for the bi'ead -crumbs 
The reason I call it twenty receipts in 
one is, that all kinds of food may be 
used for it, even shrimps, oysters, and 
lobsters. 

8S2.— PvAMIFOLLE. 

These are a little more expensive than 



the fritadella, and worthy the table of a 
crowned head. The flesh of fowls in- 
stead of lamb or veal, with the addition 
of one or two fat livers cut in dice. 
Proceed as in the former receipt using 
the crumb of French rolls, and one or 
two truffles cut fine : then make some 
pancake batter, and saute two pancakes 
about one-eighth of an inch thick, cover 
one with the meat &c., and lay the other 
over, and put by until cold ; when so, 
cut them to anj'- shape you like, but if 
like cutlets add the small bone of fowl 
or pigeon, or the stalk of a sprig of pars- 
ley ; egg and bread-crumb them, and 
saute them in oil or lard of a nice yel- 
low color, and dish them like cutlets, 
with any of the sauces or garnitures de- 
scribed for mutton cutlets ; or if plain, 
with fried parsley. They may be made 
of any kind of meat, fish, or poultry. 
I have latterly had them sent up to table 
when we have had a few friends, and 
they have been very much liked ; and, 
on inquiring the name, I baptized them 
RamifoUe, without any particular mean- 
ing, which name having pleased as much 
as the dish, therefore let them be called 
RamifoUes. 

They may be made a plainer way 
with various meats or liver, and spread 
over one pancake, which roll over, and 
when cold cut it into three equal lengths, 
egg, bread-crumb, and saute as above. 

884.— PRUSSIAN CUTLETS. 

*Take a piece of veal, say one pound, 
from any part of the calf, free from nerve, 
with a little fat, chop it up, but not too 
fine, add to it two leaspoonfuls of chop- 
ped eschalot, one of salt, half a one of 
pepper, a little grated nutmeg, chop it a 
little more, and make it into pieces of 
the size of two walnuts, to which give 
the shape of a cutlet ; egg and bread- 
crumb each ; insert a small bone at the 
small end, saute it in fat, oil, lard, or 
butter, give it ten minutes on a slow fire 



SATTSAQ-ES. 



337 



till a nice brown color, dish and serve 
with demi-glaze sauce, in which you have 
put a spoonful of Harvey's, and serve 
with any brown or white sauce of stew- 
ed vegetables you like. Any kind of 
meat may be used. 

885.— CUTLETS 1 LA VICTIME, OR VICTIM- 
IZED CUTLETS, 

Invented by a culinary artist in the 
time of Louis XVIII. , of France, at the 
palace of the Tuileries, and first partaken 
of by that intellectual monarch and 
gourmet, who, at the end of his stormy 
reign, through a serious illness, was com- 
pletely paralyzed. The functionary or- 
gans of his digestion were much out of 
order ; being a man of great corpulence, 
and a great admirer of the festive board, 
much food was required to satisfy his 
royal appetite : and the diflBculty which 
his physicians experienced was to supply 
this want of food in the smallest com- 
pass. The head-cook, on being consult- 
ed, begged a few hours for reflection be- 
fore he could give an answer to so im- 
portant a question, as nothing but mut- 
ton entirely deprived of fat was to com- 
pose his Majesty's meal. After profound 
study by the chief and his satellites, a 
voice was heard from the larder, which 
was a considerable ways from the kitchen, 
crying, "I have found it, I have found 
it." It was that of a young man of the 
name of Alphonse Pottier, who, in say- 
ing so, made his appearance in the 
kitchen with three beautiful mutton cut- 
lets tastefully trimmed and tied together ; 
he then, with a small skewer, fastened 
them to a spit, and placed them, to the 
astonishment of all present, close to the 
bars of the grate : two of the cutlets 
soon got brown (observe, not a word 
was to be said until the trial was made), 
from brown they soon turned black ; 
every one gazed at each other with as- 
tonishment, whilst Pottier, with quite a 
composed countenance, terminated his 



scientific experiment took them oiF the 
spit, drew the skewer out, cut the .string, 
threw the two burnt cutlets away, and 
merely served the middle one, which 
seems to have received all the nutriment 
of the other two ; it was served, and 
greatly approved of by the physicians, 
as well as by the gourmet potentate, 
who, in consequence of two being sacri- 
ficed for one, named it, " Cutlet a la Vic- 
time," and often afterwards used to par- 
take of them when in the enjoyment of 
health. 

886.— CUTLET A LA VICTIME. 

Cut three cutlets from the neck of 
mutton, about half an inch thick, trim 
one very nicely, fi'ee from fat, leave the 
other two as cut off, put the trimmed 
one between the two, flatten them to- 
gether, so that the fat of the outside 
ones meet over the middle one ; tie 
them together thus, and broil over a very 
strong fire for ten minutes ; remove it 
from the fire, cut the string, and dish up 
the middle one only on a very hot dish, 
with a little salt sprinkled over it. If 
wanted roasted, proceed as above. 



SAUSAGES AND FOECE- 
MEAT. 

887.— SAUSAGES. 

In making sausages there is so great 
a variety of both meat and condiments, 
that the cook need not be tied down to 
any rule of composition. The usual mode 
is to put the preparation into the cleaned 
skins of the entrail-puddings of the 
smaller animals ; in which the sausages, 
being always well seasoned, will keep 
sound for a few days, and are then broil- 
ed as a garnish for large dishes, or fried 
for breakfast. As these skins are, how- 
ever, not always to be found, the sau- 
sage meat may then be bound together 



338 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



with the yolk of egg and bread-crumbs, 
made into the form of sausages, or as 
croquettes of any small size ; then flour- 
ed, nicely warmed, and browned in the 
frying-pan or Dutch oven until perfectly 
done. 

If more be made than is wanted for 
immediate use. it may be put away in a 
cool place, packed closely down, in a 
stone jar, and securely covered for some 
other occasion. For the spicing of sau- 
sages no rule can be laid down, as tastes 
and custom are constantly varying. 

888.— COMMON SAUSAGE-MEAT. 

Take any quantity of lean beef or 
pork, with half the quantity of fat. and 
having freed the lean of every particle of 
skin, sinew, and gristle, then mince both 
it and the fat as fine as possible ; putting 
to, each pound of meat a large teaspoon- 
ful of pepper and the same quantity of 
salt; strew this on the meat, and mix 
the whole thoroughly together, as a 
stock for further seasoning. 

Take six pounds of meat, fat and lean ; 
cut the fat into small pieces, and pound 
the lean portion in a mortar, with two 
table-spoonfuls of salt, one of moist 
sugar, a teaspoonful of saltpetre, and two 
table-spoonfuls of mixed spices. To this 
may be added the grated peel of a lem- 
on, and a small portion of sage and 
thyme, well chopped. 

Or : — To the meat of a leg of pork of 
about four pounds' weight, add two 
pounds of fat from the fore loin, chop 
both very fine ; then add two nutmegs 
grated, twenty cloves, a teaspoonful of 
pounded or grated lemon-peel, two or 
three blades of mace pounded, one oimce 
of the best salt, and one-half ounce of 
black pepper; mix all together and stuff 
it into the skins, which should be well 
cleansed, and salted the night before. 
This sausage-meat would be much im- 
proved for immediate use. by pounding 



the meat and mixing it with a third por- 
tion of white bread soaked in milk and 
also pounded, blending the whole to- 
gether with a beaten egg. 

889.— BEEF SAUSAGES, 

Though not nearly so good as those of 
pork, yet, if made at home, may be found 
a pleasant and economical mode of using 
the scraps of raw meat. Proceed as for 
pork sausages. 

890.— MUTTON SAUSAGES. 
Take a pound of undressed mutton, or 
that which has been underdone, chop it 
very small, and season it with pepper, 
salt, and beaten mace. Chop also half 
a pound of beef .suet, two anchovies, a 
pint of oysters, a quarter of a pound of 
grated bread, and a boiled onion ; mix 
the whole with the oyster liquor, and 
the whites and yolks of two eggs well 
beaten ; pound the whole in a mortar. 
Roll into lengths, corks, or balls, and fry 
them. 

891.— AN EXCELLENT SAUSAGE TO EAT 
COLD. 

Season fat and lean pork with some 
salt, saltpetre, black pepper, and allspice, 
all in fine powder, and rub into the meat ; 
the sixth day cut it small, and mix with 
it some shred shalot, or garlic, as fine as 
possible. Have ready an ox-gut that 
has been scoured, salted, and soaked well, 
and fill it with the above stuffing ; tie 
up the ends, and hang it to smoke as you 
would hams, but first wrap it in a fold 
or two of old muslin. It must be high- 
dried. Some eat it without boiling, but 
others like it boiled first. The skin 
should be tied in different places, so as 
to make each link about eight or nine 
inches long. 

892.— OYSTER SAUSAGES. 
Take one pound of veal and a score of 
oysters bearded, then pound the veal very 
finely in a mortar with a little suet, sea- 



SAUSAGES. 



339 



son with a little pepper, soak a piepe of 
bread in the oyster-liquor, pound, and 
add it with the oysters cut in pieces to 
the veal ; beat up an egg to bind them 
together, and roll them into little lengths, 
like sausages ; fry them in butter a deli- 
cate brown. 

Or : — Take half a pound of lean mut- 
ton or beef, with three-quarters of a 
pound of beef suet, and two score of 
oysters bearded. Mince the whole and 
add bread-crumbs, with two yolks of 
eggs to bind the materials together. 
Season with salt, white pepper, a little 
mace, and mushroom powder. 

Put it either in skins, or fry the sau- 
sage-meat of a light brown in small 
pieces. 

893.— VEAL AND POULTRY SAUSAGES. 

Sausages may also be made of the re- 
mains of veal, turkey, or Jhwl, which 
have been dressed. Of either of these 
put equal quantities of meat and bread- 
crumbs, with half that of ham, seasoned 
with parsley, lemon-thyme, and chives. 
Mix the materials with a little pepper, 
salt, and pounded mace, the yolk of an 
egg, and half a teaspoonful of flour; 
make it up as saugages or small rolls to 
garnish fricassees or minced meat, or as 
a nice supper dish, piled round a sweet- 
bread. 

Or: — Chop equal quantities of lean 
veal and fat bacon, a handful of sage, a 
little salt and pepper, and a few ancho- 
vies, beat all in a mortar ; and when used, 
roll and fry it, and serve it with fried 
sippets, or on stewed vegetables, or on 
white coUops. 

894.— FOWL OR RABBIT SAUSAGES. 

Take the remains of a fowl, rabbit, or 
hare ; when boiled or roasted, free it 
from the bones, and cut it small. Boil 
some onions in strong gravy ; when the 
onions are quite soft pound thom, season 



with salt, pepper, parsley, two cloves, 
and a blade of mace ; pound the meat 
al.so, cut some bacon into small pieces, 
and add it. Mix up these ingredients 
with the 3'olk of an e^^:. add a little 
lemon-juice or lemon-pickle, or chop a 
little sorrel with the herbs, fill the skins, 
and broil them. 

Such are the sausages usually made 
in this country, and most commonly 
eaten fresh ; but, in Europe, many sorts 
are made of a rather large size, sea- 
soned in different modes, and smoked, 
with the intention of keeping them good 
for a long ti ne, as tlie BrmmcicJc, Bay- 
onne^ and Bologna, which may always 
be found m the foreign oil-shops in Eng- 
land. There is, however, another kind, 
which we Jo not recollect to have ever 
seen in London, though constantly used 
throughout the peninsula. 

895.— SPANISH AND PORTUGUESE SAU- 
SAGES 

Are made from the fat and lean of the 
back and loins of a well-fed two-year- 
old hog, cut into small pieces of less than 
half an inch square, and then either fine- 
ly minced or pounded together, and 
strongly seasoned with cloves of garlic 
and green or red capsicums or chilis ; 
but as these cannot always be conveni- 
ently procured in this country, cayenne 
pepper may be substituted. The whole 
should then ba covered with any sort o>. 
strong, dry wine, until absorbed by the 
ingredients, which will occupy perhaps a 
few days, according to the quantity. 

Fill the largest skins you can get with 
the meat, fat and lean, alternately, occa- 
sionally adding some of the wine. Tie 
up in links, and hang them in a room 
where they will not get damp or become 
too dry, and they will keep twelve 
months. 

They are sometimes fried, and eaten 
either alone or as a relish with poultry, 
but more frequently put into stews ; and. 



340 



THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



in Spain, always boiled along with the 
olla, under the name of '^ Ohorisos.^^ 

896.— BLACK PUDDINGS. 

The blood must be stirred with salt till 
cold. Put a quart of it, or rather more, 
to a quart of whole grits, to soak one 
night ; and soak the crumb of a wheat 
loaf in rather more than two quarts of 
new milk made hot. In the mean time 
prepare the guts by washing, turning, and 
scraping, with salt and water, and chang- 
ing the water several times. Chop fine 
a little winter savory and th3-me, a good 
quantity of pennyroyal, pepper, and salt, 
a few cloves, some allspice, ginger, and 
nutmeg ; mix these with three pounds of 
beef suet, and six eggs well beaten and 
strained ; and then beat the bread, grits, 
&c., all up with the seasoning ; when well 
mixed, have ready some hog's fat cut into 
dice, and, as you fill the skins, put it in 
at proper distances. Tie in links only 
half filled, and boil in a large kettle, 
pricking them as they swell, or they will 
burst. When boiled, lay them between 
clean clothes, or upon straw, till cold, and 
hang them up in the kitchen. When to 
be used, scald them a few minutes in 
water; wipe, and put them into a Dutch 
oven. 

if there are not skins enough, put the 
stuffing into basins, and boil it covered 
with floured cloths ; and slice and fry it 
when used. 

Or :— Soak all night a quart of bruised 
grits in as much boiling hot milk as will 
swell them, and leave half a pint of liquid. 
Chop a good quantity of pennyroyal, 
some leaves of sage, savory, and thyme, 
with salt, pepper, and allspice finely pow- 
dered. Mix the above with a quart of 
the blood, prepared as before directed; 
then half fill the skins, after they have 
been cleaned thoroughly, and put as much 
of the flare (that is, the inward fat) of the 
pig as will make it pretty rich. Boil as 
before directed. A small quantity of 



leeks, finely shred and well mixed, is a 
great improvement. 

897.-WHITE PUDDINGS. 

To two parts of beef suet chopped, add 
one part of oatmeal previously toasted 
before the fire ; boil an onion or two, and 
chop them with pepper and salt ; mix the 
whole well together; put the ingredients 
into skins, and boil them for an hour, 
pricking them as they boil to prevent 
their bursting. They will keep for some 
time in bran after they have been allowed 
to become cold. Parboil them when 
wanted, and then broil them on a grid- 
iron. 

The quantity of suet may seem dispro- 
portioned to the oatmeal ; but unless 
there are two-thirds of the former to one 
of the latter, the puddings will be dry 
and fat. They require to be highly sea- 
soned with pepper and onions. 



FORCEMEAT. 

French cooks pride themselves, and 
very justly, on the pains which they be- 
stow on the elaboration of their force- 
meat, or farce. It is an art in which 
they have attained superior excellence, 
but in which there is no great difficulty. 

At many tables, where every thing else 
is well done, it is common to find very bad 
stuffing, which, according to what it is 
wanted for, should be a judicious se- 
lection, observing that of the most pun- 
gent articles least must be used. A gen- 
eral fault is, that the tastes of lemon- 
peel and thyme overcome all others, 
therefore they should only be used in 
small quantities ; and except in a few 
very savory dishes, caj^enne. and pepper 
of all kinds should be sparingly used. 
No one flavor should predominate great- 
ly ; yet if several dishes be served the 
same day, there should be a marked va- 



FORCEMEAT. 



341 



riety in the tastes of the forcemeats as 
well as of the gravies. 

The forcemeat should be consistent 
enough to be cut with a knife, but not 
dry and heavy. Herbs are a very essen- 
tial ingredient, and it is the copious but 
judicious use of them that chiefly gives 
the cookery of the French its superior 
flavor. 

Bacon or butter must always be sub- 
stituted for suet when the forcemeat is 
to be eaten cold. 

The flavor given to the bread, or panada, 
is considered to be of great importance, 
and the highest point of perfection may 
be obtained by attending to the following 
directions : — 

898.— now TO MAKE QUENELLES OF 
FORCEAIEAT. 

Have two table-spoons, dessert or tea- 
spoons, according to the size you intend 
making quenelles ; fill one of them with 
the forcemeat ; dip the other spoon into 
boiling water, and with it remove the 
forcemeat from the first spoon, and slip 
it from that into a buttered saute-pan, 
proceeding thus until j'ou have as many 
as you require ; then cover them with 
some second stock, and boil them about 
ten minutes, or until firm, and they are 
ready for use. 

899— PANADA FOE FOECEMEATS. 

Put two-thirds of half a pint of water 
into a stewpan holding a quart, with near- 
ly an ounce of butter ; when boiling, stir 
in a quarter of a pound of flour ; keep it 
moving over the fire until it forms a 
smooth and toughish paste ; take it out 
of the stewpan, and when cold, use it 
where directed. 

900.— STUFFING FOE VEAL. 

Chop up half a pound of beef suet verj- 

fine ; put it in a basin, with eight ounces 

of bread-crumbs, a table-spoonful of 

chopped parsley, a little powdered thyme 

22 



and marjoram, half the rind of a lemon 
grated, and the juice of half a one ; sea- 
son with a spoonful of salt, and a quarter 
one of pepper, and one- quarter of a nut- 
meg J mix the whole with three whole 
eggs ; this will do also to stuff turlcey or 
haked fisTi^ adding some more chopped 
parsley. 

901.— STUFFING FOB HAEE OE TUEKET. 
Take half a pound of beef suet chopped 
very fine, some parsley, a little thyme, 
pepper, salt, and spices, the same quantity 
of crumbs of bread as of suet, an egg or 
two, and mis the whole with a little 
milk. It would not be amiss to put to 
it a very small bit of butter, and to pound 
the whole in a mortar for a short time. 
This stuffing may be used with baked 
pike, or with either roasted or boiled 
turkey, roasted hare, &c. ; in short, with 
all such articles as will be mentioned in 
this work. If the taste of shalot is not 
objected to, it will be found to add to the 
flavor of the stuffing. If you do not like 
to put it into the mortar, take the roll- 
ing-pin and mix it with it on the table, 
which is a better method. 



CUEING MEAT, POTTINQ, 
AND COLLARING. 

902.— CUEING. 

In salting all meat, care should be taken 
to remove the kernels, otherwise it will 
soon become tainted. It should be sprin- 
kled with a handful of common salt to 
fetch out the blood, the brine thrown away 
on the following day, and the meat wiped 
with a dry cloth ; it is then ready to be 
cured in any of the undermentioned ways. 
Too much care cannot be talven in the 
first salting to rub between every muscle 
or under every flap of the meat ; as for 
want of this care it may have an un- 
pleasant taste, though sufficiently salted. 



3i2 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER 



The brine will serve again, by being 
boiled and skimmed, which may be re- 
peated as long as any scum will rise. 
Hams should be laid with the rind-side 
downwards : and it is a good plan to heat 
a quarter peck of common salt in a fry- 
ing-pan, and lay it at the bottom of the 
pan. A small quantity of saltpetre is 
necessary to produce the fine red color 
either in ham or beef; but much will 
make the meat hard, and the proportions 
of sugar and salt should be varied accord- 
ing to the preference given to highly- 
salted provisions, or those which are cured 
milder. 

903.— TO CORN BEEF. 

A Round of Beef of eighteen or ticenty 
pounds' tceight. — Mix an ounce and a half 
of sal-prunella, three ounces of brown 
sugar, half an ounce of black pepper, six 
ounces of fine salt, a quarter of an ounce 
of cloves pounded, the same of nutmeg, 
and half a pound of common salt: take 
out the bone, and rub the piece over with 
common salt : let it remain for a day or 
two, and then rub into it the above in- 
gredients finely powdered and thoroughly 
mixed ; let it lie a fortnight, and turn it 
daily. It should then be hung up in a 
dry place ; and, if possible, smoked till 
wanted for use, when it should be either 
boiled gently, or baked in a deep dish 
covered with coarse paste. 

This, it may however be observed, is 
rather a superior mode ; as the common 
way is merely to use fine salt, with occa- 
sionally a little saltpetre to give a tinge 
of redness to the meat, which is seldom 
smoked, except for very large joints. 
Many persons, indeed, think the meat 
best when stewed; in which case, put no 
more water in the pot than will barely 
cover the meat, and keep it gently sim- 
mering for four, five, or six hours, accord- 
ing to the size of the joint. 

904.— TO SALT BEEF RED. 

Choose a piece of beef with as little 



bone as you can (the flank is the best), 
sprinkle it, and let it drain a day ; then 
rub it with common salt, a small propor- 
tion of saltpetre, fine salt, and a little 
coarse sugar ; you may add a few grains 
of cochineal, all in fine powder. Rub the 
pickle every day into the meat for a week, 
then only turn it. 

It will be excellent in eight days. In 
sixteen, drain it from the pickle ; and let 
it be smoked at the oven's mouth when 
heated with wood, or send it to the 
baker's. A few days will smoke it. It 
is extremely good eaten fresh from the 
pickle, boiled tender with greens or car- 
rots. If to be grated, then cut a lean 
bit; boil it till extremely tender, and 
while hot, put it under a press. When 
cold, fold it in a sheet of paper, and it 
will keep in a dry place two or three 
months, ready for serving on bread and 
butter. 

905.— THE DUTCH WAY TO SALT BEEP. 

Take a lean piece of beef; rub it well 
with treacle or brown sugar, and turn it 
often. In three days wipe it, and salt it 
with common salt and saltpetre beaten 
fine ; rub them well in, and turn it every 
day for a fortnight. Roll it tight in a 
coarse cloth, and press it under a heavy 
weight ; hang to dry in wood-smoke ; but 
turn it upside down every day. Boil it 
in pump Avater, and press it ; it will grate 
or cut into shivers, and makes a good 
breakfa'^t dish. 

To twelve pounds of beef the proportion 
of common salt is one pound. 

906.— SPICED BEEF. 

Make a brine with half a pound of salt, 
half an ounce of saltpetre, half a pound 
of sugar, thirty cloves, as many allspice 
and black peppercorns, six bay-leaves ; 
crack the spice ; put it on to boil for a 
few minutes in a pint of water ; when 
cold, pour it over a piece of beef about 
ten pounds. Turn it every day for a fort- 
night 



CTJEING MEAT. 



343 



When required for use, put the beef 
into a deep pan with the brine, a little 
water, and about one pound of suet. Bake 
it until tender; let it get cold in the 
brine. 

907.— HUNG BEEF, (the Deirynane Receipt.) 

Rub the beef well with salt and salt- 
petre, in the proportion of two ounces of 
saltpetre and seven pounds of salt to 
fifty pounds of beef. Put the beef into 
a cask or tub, place a board over it, and 
weights upon that ; leave it so for about 
a fortnight, then take it out and hang it 
in the kitchen to dry, which will gene- 
rally take about three weeks. Some 
persons leave it for a longer time in the 
tub, which they merely cover without 
the weight ; but the above is the better 
way, 

908.— TO CURE TONGUES. 

Neats' tongues cured with the whole 
root on look much larger, but have not 
any other advantage, being too hard to 
cut pleasantly when salted. If the root 
is to be removed, cut it off near the gul- 
let, but without taking away the fat that 
is under the tongue. The root must be 
soaked in salt and water a night, and ex- 
tremely well cleaned before it be dressed, 
when it is very good stewed with gravy ; 
or it may be salted two days, and used for 
pea-soup. Having left the fat and a little 
of the kernel under the tongue, sprinkle 
it with salt and let it drain until the 
next day. Then for each tongue mix a 
large spoonful of common salt, the same 
quantity of coarse sugar, half as much 
saltpetre, a teaspoonful of ground pep- 
per, and two cloves of garlic or shalot 
chopped very fine ; rub it well in, and do 
60 every day for a week ; then add an- 
other large spoonful of salt. If rubbed 
daily, a tongue will be ready in ten days ; 
but if only turned in the pickle, it will 
not be too salt in four or five weeks, but 



should not be kept longer. When to be 
dried, write the date of the day on 
parchment, and tie it on. Smoke three 
days, or hang them in a dry place with- 
out smoking. When to be dre.=;sed, boil 
the tongue extremely tender ; allow five 
hours, and if done sooner it is easily kept 
hot. The longer it is kept after smoking, 
the higher will be the flavor ; but in the 
estimation of many persons, they are 
best dressed out of the pickle ; if hard, 
it njay require soaking four or five hours. 

Or : — Put the tongue into an earthen 
pan, rub into it a table-spoonful of salt- 
petre, a good handful of salt, and the 
same quantity of coar.se brown su^ar ; 
allow the tongue to remain in the pickle 
for three weeks, and rub it over every 
day. Then take it out and put it into 
the meat-screen before the fire for two or 
three days, till the pickle has entirely 
drained from it. Then sprinkle it over 
with bran, and hang it up in any part of 
the kitchen with the root-end upper- 
most; sew salt tongues up in coarse 
linen. 

909.— TO CURE SHEEP'S TONGUEis. 

Let the tongues be well washed and 
cleaned, and lay them in spring water for 
half an hour. Take one pound of salt, 
a gill of molasses, and half an ounce of 
saltpetre ; rub the tongues well with it, 
and put them into the pickle : a week 
or ten days will be sufficient to cure 
them. 

910.— FOR CURING HAMS. 

Choose the leg of a hog that is fat and 
well fed, as well as of* a certain age ; for 
if poor, it is not worth curing, and if not 
one year old it will never acquire the fine 
flavor of a mellow ham. Sprinkle it 
with a little salt, and let it drain for a 
day ; then put to it one pound each of 
coarse salt and the coarsest sugar, with a 



su 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



large handful of common salt and four 
ounces of saltpetre ; rub it thoroughly 
with this ; lay the rind downwards, and 
cover the fleshy parts with the salt, with 
which baste it frequently, and turn it 
every second day. Keep it in this for 
four weeks, then drain it and throw bran 
over it ; hang it up in a cool place to dry, 
then sow it up in a coarse linen wrapper 
rubbed with lime, and do not dress it 
until full three months old. 

The better way is, however, to smohe 
it. In country places this is not uncom- 
monly done by hanging it in a kitchen 
chimney where wood is burnt, or in any 
spare chimney where a smothering fire 
can be kept up, made of wet straw and 
horse-litter, with sawdust or shavings ; 
but be particular to have them of oak^ 
for, if of pine, it will give the ham a bad 
flavor. It will take three weeks' smok- 
ing. 

Or : — Hang the ham, and sprinkle it 
with salt as above ; then rub it every 
day with the following, in fine powder : 
a pound of common salt powdered fine, 
two ounces of salt-petre, and two ounces 
of black pepper, mixed with one and 
a half pints of molasses. 

911.— ANOTHER WAY, THAT GI7ES A 
HIGHER FLAVOR. 

When the weather will permit, hang 
the ham three days ; mix one ounce of 
saltpetre with half a pound of common 
salt, and also of coarse sugar, and a quart 
of strong beer ; boil them together, and 
pour them immediately upon the ham ; 
turn it twice a-day in the pickle for three 
weeks. One ounce of black pepper, and 
the same quantity of allspice, in fine 
powder, added to the above, will give 
still more flavor. 

Or : — Sprinkle the ham with salt, af- 
ter it has hung two or three days ; let it 
drain ; make a pickle of a quart of strong 
beer, half a pound of molasses, one ounce 



of coriander-seeds, two ounces of juni- 
per-berries, one ounce of pepper, the 
same quantity of allspice, one ounce of 
saltpetre, half an ounce of sal-prunella, 
a handful of common salt, and a head of 
shalot, all pounded or cut fine. Boil 
these all together a few minutes, and 
pour them over the ham : this quantity 
is for one of ten pounds. 



912.— FITZ8IM0N FAMILY RECEIPT FOE 
CURING HAMS. 

Mix one ounce of saltpetre, one pound 
of common salt, and one pound of coarse 
brown sugar, all together, and rub the 
ham well. Let it lie for a month in this 
pickle, turning and basting it every dav ; 
then hang it in wood- smoke in a dry 
place, where no heat can come to it, and, 
if to be kept long, hang it for a month 
or two in a damp place, and it will eat 
firm and short. Observe, hams thus 
made need not be soaked ; put them into 
cold water, and let them be three or four 
hours before they boil, skimming the pot 
well and often until it boils. These 
hams have been made with a less quan- 
tity of salt and an additional quantity of 
saltpetre, and it has been found to an- 
swer well, the hams being in that case 
soaked before boiling;. 



913.— WESTPHALIA HAMS. 

Prepare the hams in the usual manner 
by rubbing them with common salt and 
draining them; take one ounce of salt- 
petre, half a pound of coarse sugar, and 
the same quantity of salt ; rub it well 
into the ham, and in three days pour a 
pint of vinegar over it. A fine foreign 
flavor may also be given to hams by 
pouring old strong beer over them, and 
burning juniper-wood while they are dry- 
ing : molasses, juniper-berries, and high- 
ly-flavored herbs, such as basil, sage, 
bay-leaves, and thyme, mingled togethei; 



and the hams well rubbed with it. using 
only a sufBcient quantity of salt to as- 
sist in the cure, will afford an agreeable 
variety. 

914— MUTTON HAM. 

Cut a hind quarter of mutton in the 
shape of a ham, and allow it to hang for 
two or three days. Mix half a pound of 
coarse salt, two ounces of saltpetre, half a 
pound of common salt, and half a pound 
of coarse sugar, all well pounded to- 
gether, and make them quite hot before 
the fire. Then rub it well into the meat, 
turning it in the liquor every day ; after 
four days add two ounces more of com- 
mon salt. Let it remain twelve days in 
the brine, then take it out, dry it, and 
hang it up in wood-smoke for a week. 

Another pickle for mutton-ham may 
be made with one ounce of saltpetre to 
one pound of coarse sugar, and one pound 
of salt ; the ham to be kept in this 
pickle for a fortnight, then rolled in saw- 
dust, and hung in wood-smoke for four- 
teen days. 

915.— GOOSE HAMS 

Are made by splitting the goose down 
the back, rubbing it with a quarter of 
an ounce of saltpetre, and then salting it 
well with common salt and coarse brown 
sugar ; let it lie in pickle for ten days in 
summer and fourteen in winter, rub and 
turn it every day, roll it in sawdust and 
smoke it. 

In Pomerania, on the shores of the 
Baltic, where vast numbers are cured, 
the breasts are prepared separately as 
hams, and being much dried in smoking, 
are always eaten without further dress- 
ing. In the fens of Lincolnshire the 
geese, when their feathers have been 
plucked, are also salted. 

916.— BACON. 
The method of curing Malines Bacon, 



so much admired f orbits fine flat or . — Cut 
off' the hams and head of a pig, if a 
large one ; take out the chine and leave 
in the sparerib, as they will keep in the 
gravy and prevent the bacon from i-ust- 
ing. Salt it first with common salt, and 
let it lie for a day on a table that the 
blood may run from it; then make a 
brine with a pint of bay-salt, a quarter 
of a peck of common salt, about a quar- 
ter of a pound of juniper-berries, and 
some bay-leaves, with as much water as 
will, when the brine is made, cover the 
bacon ; when the salt is dissolved, and 
when quite cold, if a new-laid egg will 
swim in it, the brine may be put on the 
bacon, which after a week must be rub- 
bed with the following mixture : — half 
a pound of saltpetre, two ounces of sal- 
prunella, and one pound of coarse sugar ; 
after remaining four weeks it may be 
hung up in a chimney where wood is 
burned ; shavings, with sawdust and a 
small quantity of turf, may be added to 
the fire at times. 

91T.— THE BLACK POOL RECEIPT FOR 
CUEING BACON. 

For a middling-sized hog take twelve 
pounds of the best common salt, and one 
pound of saltpetre pounded very finely ; 
rub it in well, and cover the meat about 
an inch thick, hams, chaps, and all ; 
placing it with the rind downwards. 
Let it remain for a week ; then take off" 
the salt ; turn the whole with the rind 
upwards ; then lay the salt on again for 
another week. Then remove the salt, 
and tui*n it a second time ; lay on the salt 
and let it remain four days longer. It 
will then be properly salted. Wipe it 
clean ; rub it all over with dry salt ; and 
hang it where it will have a little air of 
the fire, until it is dry. Then sew it up 
in whity-brown paper, and hang it in a 
dry place where no heat can come to it ; 
and, if these precautions are taken, it will 
not get rusty. 



3i6 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



The meat must bg salted on a board 
that is well perforated with holes, to let 
the brine run from it ; and it must be 
covered up closely with a coarse cloth to 
keep out the air ; and, while salting, take 
care to lay the pieces as close as possible 
one upon the other. 

91S.— WILTSHIRE BACON. 
Sprinkle each flitch with salt ; and let 
the blood drain off for twenty-four hours. 
Then mix one pound and a half of coarse 
sugar, the same quantity of fine salt, six 
ounces of saltpetre, and four pounds of 
coarse salt; i*ub this well on the bacon, 
tuining and wetting it in every part, 
daily for a month ; then hang it to dry, 
and afterwards smoke it ten days. 

919.— TO CUEE BACON FOE LARDING AND 
BEAI8ING. 

Take the fattest part of the pork, and to 
every ten pounds use one pound of pound- 
ed salt ; rub it very well over ; put the 
pieces one upon another upon boards, and 
lay boards with a heavy weight upon the 
top ; leave it in a dry cool place for about 
a month ; then hang it up to dry without 
smoking. The hardest is the best for 
larding ; and bacon cured in this way is 
preferable for culinary purposes, since the 
saltpetre usually emplo3^ed will turn veal 
or poultry red, when braised with any 
portion of the lean. 

920.— HOG'S CHEEKS. 
Cut out the snout ; remove the brains ; 
and split the head, taking oiF the upper 
bone, to make the chowl a good shape ; 
rub it well with salt; next day take away 
the brine, and salt it again the following 
daj' with three quarts of common salt, 
and a pound and a quarter of brown 
sugar ; put into a gallon and a half of 
spring water ; stir it until the whole is 
dissolved. This quantity will be suflB- 
cient for three pair of chaps ; be care- 
ful to turn them in the brine at least 



every other day, and to keep them well 
covered. Dry them in wood-ashes. 

921.— BRAWN. 

Split and nicely clean a hog's head; 
take out the brains ; cut off the ears, and 
rub a good deal of salt into the head ; let 
it drain twenty-four hours ; then lay up- 
on it two ounces of saltpetre, and the 
same of common salt, for three days ; lay 
the head and salt into a pan, with just 
water to cover it. for two days more. 

Wash it well, and boil until the bones 
will come out; remove them, and chop 
the meat as quickly as possible in pieces 
of an inch long ; but first take the skin 
carefully ofi" the head and the tongue ; 
the latter also cut in bits. Season with 
pepper and salt. Put the skin of one side 
of the head into a small long pan ; pi'ess 
the chopped head and tongue into it, and 
lay the skin of the other side of the head 
over, and press it down. When cold, it 
will turn out. The head may probably 
be too fat ; in which case, prepare a few 
bits of lean pork with the head. Boil 
two ounces of salt, a pint of vinegar, and 
a quart of the liquor, and, when cold, 
pour it over the head. The ears are to 
bo boiled longer than the head ; cut in 
thin strips, and divided about it, the hair 
being nicely removed. Eeboil the pickle 
often. 

922.— ANOTHEE MOCK BRAWN. 

Boil a pair of neat's feet very tender; 
take the meat ofi", and have ready the 
belly-piece of pork, salted with common 
salt and saltpetre, for a week. Boil this 
till nearly done ; take out the bones, and 
roll the feet and the pork together. Then 
roll it very tight with a strong cloth and 
coarse tape. Boil it till very tender; 
then hang it up in the c'oth till cold; 
after which keep it in a sousing liquor. 

923.— TO KEEP BRAWN, THE CAMBRIDGE 
WAY. 

To two gallons of water, put one pound 



POTTING AND COLLABING. 



347 



of wheat-bran, and one pound of salt; 
boil one hour ; when cold, strain it ; and 
keep the brawn in it. In ten or twelve 
days fresh pickle will be required. If, 
by length of carriage or neglect, the brawn 
be kept too long out of pickle, make as 
above ; and when rubbed well with salt, 
and washed with some of the pickle, it 
will be quite restored to its former good- 
ness. 

924.— TO PICKLE POEK. 

Take half a bushel of common salt, 
one pound of coarse salt, half a pound of 
saltpetre, and six pounds of coarse brown 
sugar ; make hams of the legs. Take the 
sides of the pork, and rub them well with 
common salt ; lay a thin bed of salt in the 
tray, and place one of the sides in it; 
sprinkle with salt to cover it ; lay the 
other side on the top, and sprinkle it 
also. Let them lie two or three days, 
rubbing the salt wefl in ; then cover the 
whole with the other ingredients ; and, as 
soon as the salt begins to give, rub them 
well in ; turn the sides frequently, and 
let them be covered with brine ; it will 
be fit for use in six or eight weeks. 

925.— A PICKLE 
That will heep for years, for Jiams, 
tongues, or ieef if boiled and shimmed 
ietween each parcel of them. — To two 
gallons of spring water put two pounds 
of coarse sugar, two pounds of coarse, and 
two and a half pounds of common salt, 
and half a pound of saltpetre, in a deep 
earthen glazed pan that will hold four 
gallons, and with a cover that will fit 
close. Keep the beef or hams as long 
as they will bear before you put them 
into the pickle ; and sprinkle them with 
coarse sugar in a pan, from which they 
must drain. Rub the hams, &c., well 
with the pickle ; and pack them in close, 
putting as much as the pan will hold, 
so that the pickle may cover them. 
The pickle is not to be boiled at first. A 



small ham may lie fourteen days ; a large 
one three weeks ; a tongue twelve days ; 
and beef in proportion to its size. They 
will eat well out of the pickle without 
drying. When they are to be dried, let 
each piece be drained over the pan ; and 
when it will drop no longer, take a clean 
sponge and dry it thoroughl3% Six or 
eight hours will smoke them ; and there 
should be only a little sawdust and wet 
straw burnt to do this ; but if put into a 
baker's chimney, sew them in a coarse 
cloth, and hang them a week. Add two 
pounds of common salt, and two pints 
of water, every time you boil the liquor. 

926. -POTTING AND COLLAEING. 

To pot and collar are only diiFerent 
modes of preserving fish and meat for a 
longer time than they could be kept fresh ; 
chiefly, in the instance of potting, by 
pounding the materials with seasoning, 
when dressed, and then putting small 
portions in closely covered jars or pots ; 
while collaring is done by slicing portions 
of the meat or fish ; and, when well sea- 
soned, rolling it in round pieces ; to be 
eaten cold, as savory dishes, at breakfast 
and luncheon. 

In potting, take care to wait until the 
meat is cold; press the meat firmly into 
the pots; but, before putting it there, 
drain the gravy thoroughly from the 
meat, or the gravy will turn it sour ; then 
cover well with clarified butter, and tie 
over it oil-skin, or oiled paper, to exclude 
the air. 

92T.-TO CLARIFY BUTTER. 

Put your boat into a saucepan of cold 
water, and set it over a slow fire until it 
melts ; then take it off the fire ; take off 
the scum, and again warm it gently. 
After being used, it will still serve for 
basting, or for meat-pie paste, and is also 
excellent for fish sauce. 

In Collaring, be careful to roll the 
meat tightly, and bind it firmly. Let it 



348 



THE PRACTICAL nOUSEKEEPEB. 



also be thoroughly done ; left in a cool 
place ; sometimes rubbed with pickle, but 
always wiped perfectly dry. 

928.— TO POT SHFLL-FISH. 

Boil lobsters and shrimps in salt and 
water ; pick the meat out of the tails and 
claws ; put them into a stewpan, with a 
little butter, some chopped muslirooms 
or truffles, and simmer a short time over 
a gentle fire. When nearly done, beat 
tlie yolks of two or three eggs, with a 
teacupful of cream, and a little chopped 
parsley; let all stew together for a few 
minutes, until rendered as consistent as 
paste, and set it as above stated. 

Or: — When boiled, take them out of 
their shells, and season them with salt. 
white pepper, and a ver}' little mace and 
untnieg ; but u.se the spice very sparingly, 
only just sufficient to preserve the fish 
fur a few days in a fresh state, as they 
will not keep good much longer. Press 
them into a pot ; lay a little butter over 
them ; and bake in a slow oven foi* ten 
minutes. When cold, cover with clari- 
fied butter. 

Shrimps may also be potted wJiole^ by 
putting them for a few minutes in clari- 
fied butter, seasoned as above, and gently 
heated ; then put into pots, and cover 
with more butter, to totally prevent the 
admission of air. Cover the pots also 
with oil-skin. 

929.— TO POT POULTPvY AND GAME. 

Chiclceiis. — Take as much lean of boiled 
ham as you may think proper, and half 
the quantity of fat; each cut as thin as 
possible; beat it very fine in a mortar, 
with a little clarified butter, pounded 
mace, pepper, and salt — if the ham be 
not suHiciently impregnated. To this 
add the white part of the fowl, also 
pounded, but without seasoning, as it is 
only intended to qualify the savoriness of 
the ham. Then either mix the whole 



together, or put a layer of ham and chicken 
alternately ; press it hard in the pots ; 
bake in a cool oven for half an hour ; 
pour over it clarified butter to the thick- 
ness of a crown piece, and paste over it a 
piece of paper, which may be oiled when 
the paste is dry. 

Let them be quite fresh ; clean them 
carefully, and season them with salt and 
pepper ; lay them close in a small deep 
pan ; for, the smaller the surface, and the 
clo.ser they are packed, the less butter 
will be wanted. Cover them with but- 
ter; then with very thick paper; tie 
down and bake them. When cold, put 
them dry into pots that will hold two or 
three in each ; and pour butter over 
them, using that which was baked as 
part. Observe that the butter should be 
pretty thick over them if they are to be 
kept. If pigeons were boned and then 
put in an oval form into the pot, they 
would lie closer and require less butter. 
They may be stuffed with a fine force- 
meat made with veal, bacon. &c. If a 
jiigh flavor is ajjproved of, add mace, 
allspice, and a little caj'cune, before 
baking. 

980.— PAPvTRIDGES AND PHEASANTS. 

Clean them nicely, and season with 
mace, allspice, white pepper and salt, in 
fine powder, or seasoning spice. Rub 
every part well ; then lay the breasts 
downwards in a pan, and pack the birds 
as close as you possibly can. Put a good 
deal of butter on them ; then cover the 
pan with a coarse flour paste, and a paper 
over ; tie it close, and bake. When cold, 
put the birds into pots, and cover them 
with butter. 

Or : — When baked and grown cold, 
cut them into proper pieces for helping ; 
pack them close into a large potting-pan, 
and (if possible) leave no s[)aces to receive 
the butter. Cover them with butter, 
and one-third part less will be wanted 
than when the birds are done whole. 



POTTING. 



349 



931.— HARE. 

Hang up a hare four or five days, with 
the skin on ; then case it, and cut it up as 
for eating ; put it in a pot, and season it 
with mace, pepper, and salt ; put one 
pound of butter upon it ; tie it down, and 
bake in a bread oven till tender. When 
it comes out, pick it from the bones, and 
pound to a smooth consistence with the 
fat from the butter, and pot it in the 
usual way. 

932.— RABBITS. 

Cut up two or three young, but full- 
grown ones ; and take the leg-bones off 
at the thigh ; pack them as closely as 
possible in a small pan, after seasoning 
them with pepper, mace, cajj^enne, salt, 
allspice, all in very fine powder. Make 
the top as smooth as you can. Keep out 
the liver and the carcases ; but take off 
the meat above the neck. Put a good 
deal of butter ; and bake the whole gently. 
Keep it two days in the pan ; then shift 
it into small pots, adding butter. The 
livers also should be added, as they eat 
well. 

933.— BEEF POTTED. 

Take three pounds of lean beef, salt it 
two or three days with half a pound of 
salt and half an ounce of saltpetre ; di- 
vide it into pieces of a pound each, and 
put it into an earthen pan just sufiicient 
to contain it ; pour in half a pint of 
water, cover it close with paste, and set 
in a slow oven for four hours. When 
taken from the oven pour the gravy from 
it into a basin, shred the meat fine, 
moisten it with the gravy poured from 
the meat, and pound it thoroughly in a 
marble mortar with fresh butter until it 
becomes a fine paste ; season it with 
black pepper and allspice, or cloves 
pounded, or nutmeg grated ; put it in 
pots, press it down as close as possible, 
put a weight on it and let it stand all 



night ; next day, when quite cold, cover 
it a quarter of an inch thick with clari- 
fied butter, and tie it over with paper. 

9.34.— BEEP POTTED LIKE VEXISON. 

Take a whole thin flank of beef, pull 
off the inward skin, and cut it across and 
across, particularly in the thickest parts, 
lay it for six hours in hard water, take 
as much saltpetre as the quantity of an 
egg, mix with about two pounds of white 
salt, and rub it well into the meat ; then 
sprinkle upon it nearly a pint of wine 
vinegar, and then let it lie for three or 
four days, turning and rubbing it once a 
day, then rinse it out of the brine with 
a ])int of claret, and season it with cloves, 
mace, and nutmeg white and Jamaica 
pepper, of each a quarter of an ounce ; 
bake all together with savory, thyme, 
sage, and the rind of a lemon shr^' I to- 
gether, and then well rubbed into the 
cuts and slashes on the inside ; then bind 
it up with tape, and lay it in a long pot ; 
put in the claret, and lay the skins at 
the top to save it, then bake it. 

935.— BIRDS POTTED— HOW TO PRESERVE 
WHEN THEY BEGIN TO GROW OLD. 

When birds are sent a long way they 
often smell so bad that they can hardly 
be borne, from the rankness of the but- 
ter; by doing them in the following way 
they will be as if only fresh done. Set 
a large saucepan of clean water on the 
fii'e, when it boils take off the butter at 
the top, then take the fowls one by one, 
throw them ia the saucepan of water 
half a minute, take one out and dry it 
well inside and out, do so till they are 
all done, scald your pot clean ; when the 
birds are quite cold season with mace, 
pepper, and salt, according to taste: 
put them down close in a pot, put clari- 
fied butter over them. 

936.— CHldKEN AND HAM POTTED. 

Season some pieces of chicken with 



350 



THE PRACTICAL HOTJSEKEEPEE. 



mace, cloves, and pepper, and bake it for 
about two hours in a cl6se covered pan, 
with some water, then pound them quite 
small, moistening with either melted 
butter, or the liquor that they are baked 
in, pound some, and put this with the 
chicken in alternate layers, in pots or 
pans ; press them down tight, and cover 
them with butter. 

937.— GAME OF ALL KINDS. 

Any dressed game you may have in 
your larder. Pound well in your mor- 
tar all the tender meat free from skin 
and bone ; add to it some pounded mace, 
allspice, cayenne pepper, salt, and white 
pepper, a few grains of powdered sugar, 
an equal quantity, if you have it, of 
good fat ham. When well pounded rub 
it through a wire sieve ; if you have no 
ham use an equal quantity of 1 mtter in- 
stead ; mix it well up again, and place it 
tightly in earthen shapes ; cover each 
jar over with clarified butter or lard; 
turn out with warm water ; when requir- 
ed either for breakfast or luncheon, or a 
second course, dish in or on aspic, gar- 
nish with fresh parsley. 

938.— PIGEONS POTTED. 

Be careful that they are fresh, clean 
and season them with salt and pepper, 
lay them close together in a small deep 
pan, for the closer they are put the less 
butter they will take. Cover them with 
butter, tie them over with a thin paper, 
and bake them ; when cold put them to 
dry in pots that will hold two or three 
in each, and pour butter over them, using 
that which was baked as some ; mind, 
the butter should be thick over them ; 
if they are done for keeping, the pigeons 
would lie closer and want less butter, if 
they are boned and put into the pot in 
an oval form. They may be stuffed with 
forcemeat, made with veal and bacon, 
&c., and thcv will eat very well. If a 



high seasoning is preferred, add more all- 
spice, and a httle cayenne pepper, before 



Woodcocks are done the same way. 

939.— SMELTS POTTED. 

Draw out the inside, season with salt, 
mace pounded, and pepper ; lay them in 
a pan with butter on the top, bake them ; 
when nearly cold take them out. lay 
them on a cloth, put them into pots, clear 
off the butter from the gravy, clarify, 
and pour it over them. 

940.— VEAL POTTED. 

Take one pound of lean veal, put it 
into a stewpan, with two ounces of fresh 
butter, the juice of a lemon, pepper, salt, 
sifted mace, a bay-leaf allspice, cloves, 
nutmeg, cinnamon, and mushroom pow- 
der, a small quantity of each ; a little 
thyme, savory, and a couple of shalots, 
chopped fine ; stew them ten minutes, 
then pound them, add a pound of the 
mellow part of a boiled tongue beaten 
to a paste, half a pound of cold fresh 
butter ; mix all well together, with two 
eggs, well beaten, then press the mixture 
down tight in small pots, cover them 
with paper, and put them into a moderate 
oven, bake twenty minutes, then pour 
over them clarified buttei*. 

941.— VENISON POTTED. 

Put the venison into a pan, and pour 
red wine over it, and cover it with a 
pound of butter ; put a paste over the 
pan, set it in the oven to bake. When 
done take the meat out of the gravy, 
beat it well with the butter that has 
risen to the top, add more if necessary, 
season with pepper, salt, and mace pound- 
ed ; put into pots, set them in the oven 
for a few minutes, take them out ; when 
cold cover with clarified butter. 

942.— NEAT'S TONGUE. 

Rub it with one ounce of saltpetre and 



COLLARING. 



351 



four ounces of brown sugar ; let it lie 
two days, then boil it till it is quite ten- 
der ; take off the skin and all the fibrous 
part of the root, cut it in thin pieces, 
and pound it with one pound of clarified 
butter, and seasoning to your taste. 

943.— TO POT BEEF IN IMITATION OF 
VENISON. 

Put eight or ten pounds of lean beef 
into a deep dish ; pour over it a pint of 
red wine, and let it lie in it for two days, 
seasoning it well with mace, pepper, salt, 
and a clove of garlic ; then put it into a 
closely covered pot along with the wine, 
and another glassful if it be not suffi- 
cient, and bake it for three hours in a 
quick oven ; when cold, pound it to a 
paste, and pot it as above. 

Venison may itself be potted in the 
same manner ; but if it be stale, rub it 
previouslj'' with pyroligneous acid. 

944.— HAM CAKE. 

Take the remains of- a ham that may 
be getting dry, pound it in a mortar very 
finely, with all the fat ; season it with 
pepper and mixed spice ; add to it clari- 
fied butter sufficient to make it moist ; 
put it into a mould, and place it in an 
oven for about half an hour ; it should 
be pi'epared the day before it is wanted : 
put the mould for a few minutes in warm 
water in order that it may turn out pro- 
perly. This may be made with equal 
quantities of cold beef pounded separate- 
ly, and placed in layers in the mould, or 
put together iu lumps to look like mar- 
ble. Tongue may also be substituted 
for the ham, but it must be mixed with 
a larger quantity of butter in the pound- 
ing. If not Avanted at the time, it may 
be potted with veal, and covered with 
clarified butter. It will keep well in 
winter if properly seasoned. 

945. -TO POT MUSHROOMS. 

Choose lars-e buttons, or those in 



which the inside is not yet the least 
brown ; peel and wipe out the fur of the 
larger ones ; and to every two quarts put 
half a drachm of pounded mace,, two 
drachms of white pepper, and six or 
eight cloves in powder: set them over 
the fire, shake, and 'et the liquor dry up 
into them. Then put to them two 
ounces of butter, and stew them in it 
till they are fit fpr eating ; pour the but- 
ter from them, and let them become cold. 
Pack them close into a pot, making the 
surface as even as possible ; add some 
butter lukewarm, and then lay a bit of 
white paper over them, and pour clari- 
fied suet upon it to exclude the air. 

The coUaring of Meat and Fish is an 
excellent method of preparing it to be 
eaten cod, having the advantage of keep- 
ing for a long time, and being at all times 
ready for breakfast or luncheon. 

946.-COLLARED EEL 

Cut off the head, then split and take 
out the bone, but do not skin the fish ; 
season them with mixed spices, some 
parsley and sweet marjoram shred very 
fine, and a few chopped sage leaves ; 
sprinkle a little dry isinglass over them ; 
roll them tightly up in a cloth, bind it 
well with strong tape. Boil them in 
good gravy with a little vinegar, accord- 
ing to the quantity of eels collared, a 
few pepper-corns, a sprig of sweet mar- 
joram, iwo or three onions, four bay- 
leaves, a blade or two of mace, and a 
dozen allspice. Boil them until tender ; 
take them up and tie them without tak- 
ing out of the cloth, let them stand until 
cold, then glaze them. They may be 
sent whole to table, or cut in slices, and 
garnished with jelly and barberries. 

As a standing dish, and only eaten 
cold as a relish, it ought always to be 
highly seasoned. 

947.— TO "CAVEACII" FISH. 

Bone the tail of a cod, and cut it into 



352 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



slices, season them with white pepper 
and salt, then fry them, and when cold 
put them into a pickle made of vinegar 
boiled with peppercorns, a few cloves, 
mace, and bay-leaves ; add when cold a 
teacupful of sweet oil ; lay the fish in a 
jar with slices of onion between each, 
and cover the whole with viae!i;ar. Sal- 
mon may be pickled in the same man- 
ner. When served up at tab'e put a suf- 
ficient number of pieces in the centre of 
the dishj and raise round it a wall of 
salad. 

948. -TO COLLAR BEEF. 

Make a pickle with six ounces of brown 
sugar, four ounces of common salt, and 
one ounce of saltpetre. Then take a 
flank of beef and leave it in the pickle 
for ten days or a fortnight, turning it 
every day. When taken out, remove the 
bone and gristle, but leave on the outer 
skin ; lay it upon the table, with the 
skin downwards, and beat the inside 
well with a rolling-pin or wooden mal- 
let until quite tender ; that done, score 
the flesh in rows, down and across, 
about the breadth of two fingers ; but 
in doing so take care not to cut the out- 
side skin. Then fill the scores alter- 
nately with slices of the fat of bacon 
and corned pork, and sweet herbs of all 
sorts, chopped and seasoned with spice, 
till you have filled them all ; after which, 
roll the flank up very tightly, and liind 
it round with coarse broad tape, wrap it 
in a cloth, and boil it gently, but steadily, 
for four or five hours, according to the 
size of the joint. When quite cold, take 
it out of the cloth, unbind the tape, and 
fasten the roll with small skewers. If 
you wish to improve its appearance, you 
may also glaze it, or rub it with yolk of 
egg, and brown it with a salamander. 

Another mode is, to take either the 
flanlc or hrisl-et^ and prepare it, as above, 
for boilir.j; ; but stew it with a very little 



water, and, when done, cover the meat 
with a coating of chopped parsley, thyme, 
chives, or shalot. seasoned with a little 
cayenne ; then put it under a board, and 
lay weights upon it for an hour or two. 
to press it close together ; but before it 
becomes quite cold, remove the weights, 
and roll the piece up in the manner al- 
ready directed, 

949.— AN ECONOMICAL WAY. 

Take the best part of a shin of heef 
of which soup has been made (for it 
must be stewed until very tender), and 
an ox-tail, also well stewed ; cut them 
into small pieces, season them well, add 
a glass of wine and a glass of ketchup, 
and put it into a stewpan covered with 
a part of the liquor in which the ox-tail 
has been boiled ; stew it for about twenty 
minutes, and then put it into a mould. 
It must be very cold before it is turned 
out. This is a good way of employing 
the beef and heel when soup or jelly is 
made ; a few chopped sweet herbs may 
be added, and hard eggs cut into slices, 
or pickles, such as sliced cucumbers, in- 
termingled. The flavor may be varied 
in many ways. 

950.— TO COLLAR CALF'S READ. 

Scald the skin of a fine head, clean it 
nicely, and take out the brains. Boil it 
tender enough to remove the bones ; then 
have ready a good quantity of chopped 
parsley, mace, ground nutmeg, salt and 
white pepper, mixed well : season it high 
with these ; lay the pai'sley in a thick 
layer, then a quantity of thick slices of 
fine ham, or a beautifully colored tongue 
skinned, and then the yolks of six nice 
eggs stuck here and there about. Ro'l 
the head quite close, and tie it up as 
tight as you can. Boil it till the tape 
slackens, and then lay a weight upon it 
(without removing the bandage) till 
quite cold. Keep it in a pickle of the 
liquor, vinegar, and salt. 



COLLARING. 



353 



A cloth must be put under the tape, 
as for other collars. 

Ox-cJieeh may be collared in the same 
way. 

951.— BEEAST OF VEAL. 

Bone it, take off the thick skin and 
gristle, and beat the meat with a rolling- 
pin. Season it with herbs chopped very 
fine, mixed with salt, pepper, and mace. 
Lay some thick slices of fine ham, 
or roll into it two or three calves' 
tongues boi'ed first an hour or two, and 
skinned. Bind it up tight in a cloth, 
and tape it. Set it over a slow fire to 
simmer in a small quantity of water, till 
it is quite tender : this will take some 
hours. Lay it on the dresser, with a 
board and weight on it, till quite cold. 

Pigs' and calves' feet boiled, and taken 
from the bones, may be put in or round 
it. The different colors laid in layers 
look well when cut ; and you may put 
in yolks of eggs boiled, beet-root, grated 
ham, and chopped parsley, in different 
parts. 

When it is cold, take off the tape, and 
pour over it the liquor, which must be 
boiled up twice a-week, or it will not 
keep. 

952.— BREAST OF MUTTON, 

Collared in this way, will also be 
found very nice. Bone the meat, and 
rub it over with yolk of egg, over which 
grate some lemon-peel and nutmeg, with 
a little pepper and salt ; then mince a 
large spoonful of capers with a couple of 
anchovies, shred a handful of parsley 
and a few sweet herbs, mixed with crumb 
of a French roll ; strew it over the mut- 
ton, and roll it up tight ; boil it gently 
for two hours, and, when taken up, put 
it in the same kind of pickle as that of 
the calTs head. 

958.— TO COLLAR A PIG. 

Take a fine fat pig of a month or five 



weeks old, prepared for the table ; cut off 
the head and split the pig down the back, 
and bone it ; chop a handful of sage very 
small, mix it with two nutmegs and three 
or four blades of mace beaten fine ; add 
to it a large handful of salt, and season 
the pig all over ; roll it hard, tie it with 
tape, sew it in a clean linen cloth, and 
boil it in water with a little oatmeal and 
a good seasoning of salt ; boil till very 
tender, which will take several hours. 
Keep it in the cloth in which it was 
boiled imtil quite cold. Then take the 
cloth from the pig, and let it lie for eight 
days in a marinade. Eat it with mus- 
tard, sugar, and vinegar. 

951— TO COLLAR PIG'S HEAD. 

Scour the head and ears nicely ; take 
off the hair and snout, and take out the 
eyes and the brains ; lay it in water one 
night : then drain, salt it extremely well 
with common salt and saltpetre, and let 
it lie five days. Boil it enough to take 
out the bones ; then lay it on a dresser, 
turning the thick end of one side of the 
head towards the thin end of the other, 
to make the roll of equal size ; sprinkle 
it well with salt and white pepper, and 
roll it with the ears ; and, if you ap- 
prove, put the pig's feet round the out- 
side when boned, or the thin parts of 
two cow-heels. Put it into a cloth, bind 
with a bi'oad tape, and boil it till quite 
tender ; then put a good weight upon it, 
and do not take off the covering till 
cold. 

If you choose it to be more like brawn, 
salt it longer, let the proportion of salt- 
petre be greater, and put in also some 
pieces of lean pork ; and then cover it 
with cow-heel to look like the horn. 

This may be kept either in or out of 
pickle of salt and water boiled, with 
vinegar; and is a very convenient thing 
to have in the house. 

If likely to spoil, slice and fry it either 
with or without butter. 



354 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



955.— A MARINADE FOR COLLARED 
MEATS. " 

Make thin water-gniel of oatmeal ; sea- 
son it well with salt ; add half a pint of 
white wine and half a spoonful of white 
pepper ; boil it all together for half an 
hour ; allow it to become cold before the 
collar is put into it. 

956.— TO SALT OR CORN A ROUND OP 
BEEF. 

Rub into it a pound and a half of salt, 
dried before the fire ; then put it into a 
salting-pan, set it in a cool place, and the 
brine that melts should be poured on the 
meat every day. It may remain in salt 
from three to ten days. 

957.— BEEF PICKLE. 

Five quarts white salt, one of coarse 
salt, one pound brown sugar, fourteen 
quarts soft water ; keep it simmering till 
it comes to a boil ; then add four ounces 
saltpetre, and give it a boil. Pack your 
beef in a close vessel, and when the pickle 
is cold, pour it over it. 

958.— TO PICKLE MEAT. 

To four gallons water put six pounds 
salt ; boil and skim well, and let stand 
till cold ; then put it into the vessel for 
your meat ; boil the pickle over in two 
months, adding one pound salt, and skim 
well ; keep a weight on the meat to keep 
it under the pickle ; if any part should 
be bloody, sprinkle salt on it, and let it 
stand all night ; then scrape and wipe it 
before it goes into the pickle. 

959.— VEAL POTTED. 

Pound the remains of a cold fillet with 
mace, peppercorns, two or three cloves, 
and a little salt, and press it well down 
into pots, then cover with clarified but- 
ter. Alternate lajaTS of pounded ham 
and veal, or both mixed, form a fine com- 
pound for the luncheon or breakftxst- 
table. 



960.— IIEREINGS, TO PICKLE. 

Let the fish be well cleaned and gutted 
but not opened ; take salt, pepper, mace, 
nutmeg, pound and mix these spices well, 
then rub a pan with an onion, strew 
some of the spices over the bottom, and 
put as many fish as will lie flat on the 
bottom, then put a laj^er of sliced onions, 
and then fish, and so on alternately till 
the pan is filled ; strew the pounded spice 
between each layer, pour over the best 
vinegar so as to cover the whole, tie a 
brown paper over the pan, and bake till 
the bones are soft. 

Sprats and mackerel are likewise done 
in this way. 

The heads and tails must be cut off". 

961.-SOTER'S SIMPLIFIED WAY OF MAKING- 
THE SAVORY JELLY CALLED ASPIC. 

Put a galantine in a stewpan with two 
onions, a carrot, half a head of celery, two 
cloves, a blade of mace, a good bunch of 
parsley, a little thyme, and bay-leaves, a 
knuckle of veal, the bones of a turkey, two 
calf's feet, two ounces of salt : add suffi- 
cient water to cover the whole ; and set 
the stewpan upon the fire, until upon the 
point of boiling; then draw it to the cor- 
ner ; skim, and let simmer for three 
hours ; then take it from the fire, leaving 
it in the stock until nearly cold; then 
take it out ; remove the string from the 
napkin, and roll the galantine up tighter, 
tying the napkin again at each end only ; 
then place it upon a dish ; the breast part 
upwards; set another dish upon it, on 
which place a fourteen pounds' weight, 
which will press and cause it to cut firm ; 
when quite cold, it is ready to serve ; 
having removed the napkin, and the 
string with which it was sewed ; the 
stock, however, should be clarified as di- 
rected in the next receipt, to make a 
savory jelly, which, when cold and firm, 
is cut in croutons and chopped; uith 
some also the galantine should be taste- 
fully garnished. 



MEAT JELLY. 



355 



Although at first I had some difficult}^ 
with this receipt, I can now see the vari- 
ety to which it leads, as the same process 
answers for fowls, green geese, ducklings, 
pheasants, grouse, partridges, &c., using 
game with the veal or pork for the inte- 
rior, and stewing them according to their 
size ; the bones of game being stewed with 
the stock, will give the flavor to the 
savory jelly. 

962— TO CLAEIFT MEAT JELLY. 

Having passed the stock (made as in 
♦he last) through the sieve into a ba- 
sin, leave it until quite cold ; then take 
off all the fat very carefully ; ascertain if 
sufficiently, or too stiff, by putting a 
small piece upon ice ; savory jelly requires 
to be rather stiller than sweet ; if too 
stiff, add a little more broth ; if the con- ' 
trary, the stock must be reduced upon 
the fire until of the proper consistency. 
When the stock is boiling, and you are 
perfectly assured of its strength, have the 
white of four eggs with their shells in a 
basin, with half a pint of water, two 
spoonfuls of tarragon or common vinegar, 
and a glass of sherry ; whisk all together ; 
then whisk the stock quickly a few 
seconds, and pour in the other ingredients 
while whisking ; continue whisking a few 
minutes until again upon the point, but 
not boiling ; then take it from the fire, and 
taste if palatable ; place a cover upon the 
stewpan. which stand a little distance from 
the fire, putting a few red-hot cinders 
upon the lid for five minutes ; tie a nap- 
kin by the four corners upon a jelly-stand, 
through which pass the jelly, having a 
basin beneath to catch it ; pour the first 
that runs through again into the napkin 
until it runs quite clear ; when all through, 
pour it in a plain mould or saute-pan, 
■which place upon ice until the jelly is 
quite firm ; then dip the liottom of the 
mould in hot water ; turn the jelly out up- 
on a cloth, and cut it into whatever shapes 



you ])lease. to garnish and ornament any 
cold savory dish : the jelly when warm, 
might be divided, one part kept white, 
and the other colored with a little brown 
gravy or coloring, thus enabling you to 
variegate in g.-unishing. 

Should the jellj' be required to orna- 
ment tongues, hams, pies, salads, or any 
article, when no galantine is made ; then 
to make the stock, cut the veal into 
small pieces, and split the calf's foot in 
two ; put a quarter of a pound of butter 
in a convenient-sized stewpan, with the 
veal, foot, a small piece of lean ham, and 
the othii ingredients as directed for 
galantine ; pour in half a pint of water ; 
put on the lid, and stand it upon the fire 
until the bottom o' the stewpan is covered 
with a white glaze ; then add a gallon of 
water ; let simmer three hours, keeping 
it well skimmed ; pass and clarify as 
above. 

The knuckle of veal and foot may be 
served hot with a little parsley and but- 
ter, for a dinner previous to your party, 
with a little fried bacon separately ; but 
for my own part I prefer them plain as 
they leave the stewpan. 

963.— SOYEPv'S COLD HAM. 

Procure a very nice but sm ill ham of 
about nine pounds in weight, which soak 
about ten hours in cold water, and sim- 
mer three hours in plenty of water ; when 
done, take out and let remain until cold ; 
then cut off the skin as tliinly as possible, 
but without leaving the marks of it ; let a 
piece remain upon the knuckle about two 
inches and a half in breadth, which either 
festoon or vandyke ; carve the fat neatly 
to form a shell, if you can, and glaze it 
over lightly ; serve with a paper frill upon 
the knuck'e, and garnish with savory 
jelly, or, if plain, .with a few bunches of 
fresh green parsley; A handful of fresh 
hay put in the water when boiling, is an 
improvement. 



356 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



POULTRY. 

Always have good and fat poultry 
where possible ; in the country you may 
command it. About three weeks before 
you w.int to use them, six or twelve 
fowls, according to your consumption, 
should be put into the coop, and as you 
kill one or more replace them to keep up 
the stock ; for the first week feed them 
alternate dnys with boiled rice and soak- 
ed bread and milk : the remainder of the 
time mix Indian meal with the skim- 
mings of your stockpot and a spoonful 
of moist sugar. The windows of your 
poultry house must be darkened. 

Fowls should be carefully drawn, so 
that the gall bladder is uninjured, and 
this should only be done through the 
vent. 

Roast with a brisk and clear fire. A 
capon will take five-and-thirty minutes ; 
smaller fowls a less time in proportion. 
A turkey of fourteen pounds will take 
two hours ; the time will increase or de- 
crease with the weight. The same rule 
applies to geese : a large one will take 
an hour and a half; chickens take half 
an hour, pigeons ten minutes less. It 
must be understood that the adherence 
to the time will depend on the state of 
the fire, &c. ; a slow fire will make a 
longer time necessary, and at the same 
time spoil the poultry. 

The French adopt the following 
method to make old poultry eat tender : 
— Let the bird soak in cold water for 
twenty -four hours, with a handful or two 
of wood-ashes ; pick off the feathers, 
and let it hang for another twenty-four 
hours ; truss it, and let it boil for a quar- 
ter of an hour in a little veal-broth ; 
take it out, lard, and roast it ; when 
nearly done, baste it with very hot but- 
ter. By observing these directions, you 
will impart to an old bird all the delicate 
flavor of a young chicken. 



964— TO BONE BIRDS. 

Begin to bone any birds by first taking 
out the breast bone, when you will have 
sulficient space to remove the back with 
a sharp knife, and then the leg bones ; 
the skin must not be broken, but the 
meat of the legs must be pushed in- 
wards. 

965.— TUEKET WITH SAUSAGE MEAT. 

At the messes of European regiments 
in India, it is no uncommon thing to bone 
a turkey and a fowl, and put one inside 
the otl*er, filling the interstices with sau- 
sage-meat, a small pig being killed for 
the purpose. A turkey thus prepared 
will take a long time roasting, and must 
be placed at a great distance from the 
fire at first. When carved the slices 
should be cut quite through ; and epi- 
cures aver that it is one of the finest 
dishes that come to table. 

966.— TUEKET EOAST. 
It is stufled with either sausage meat 
or fillet of veal stuffing, or crumbs of 
bread and veal. While roasting, a piece 
of paper should be placed over the part 
stuffed, as being bulky it will catch the 
fire and become scorched ; but keep the 
heat well to the breast, in order that it 
may be as well done as tlie rest of the 
bird. Baste well, and froth it up. Seiwe 
with gravy in the dish, and bread sauce 
in a tureen. To the sausage "meat, if 
used, add a few bread-crumbs and a 
beaten egg. Turkey is sometimes stuffed 
with truffles ; they are prepared thus : 
they must be peeled, and chopped, and 
pounded in a mortar, in quantities of a 
pound and a half will be found sufficient: 
rasp the same weight of fat of bacon, and 
mix it with the truffles. Stuff the tur- 
key with it ; this stuffing is usually 
placed in the turkey two days previous 
to cooking : it is supposed to impart a 
flavor to the flesh of the fowl. Cut thin 



TURKEY. 



357 



slices of fat bacon and place over the breast 
of the turkey. Secure it with half a sheet 
of clean white paper, and roast. Chestnuts 
dressed in the same fashion are found an 
excellent substitute for truffles. Two 
hours will roast it. If you wish to make 
plain stuffing, pound a cracker, or crumble 
some bread very fine, chop some i"aw salt 
pork very fine, or use butter ; sift some 
sage, (and summer-savory, or sweet mar- 
joram, if you have them in the house, 
and fancy them), and mould them all to- 
gether, season-with a little pepper. An 
egg worked in makes the stuffing cut 
better. 

967.— TUEKET BOILED. 

A hen bird is considered the best. It 
may be stuffed with truffles, chestnuts, 
or sausage meat. Boil it in a clean 
floured cloth ; throw some salt into the 
water in which it is boiled. Cover close, 
and simmer for two hours ; remove the 
scum frequently. White sauce, or pars- 
ley and butter ; the latter is now scarcely 
ever brought to table. 

963.— BOILED TURKEY. 

FiU the body with oysters, and let it 
boil by steam without any water. "When 
sufficiently done, take it up, strain the 
gravy that will be found in the pan, and 
which, when cold, will be a fine jelly; 
thicken it with a little flour and butter, 
add the liquor of the oysters intended 
for sauce, also stewed, and warm the 
oysters up in it ; whiten it with a little 
boiled cream, and pour it over the tur- 
key. 

969.— TURKEY "WITH SAUSAGE MEAT AND 
TONGUE. 

Bone the turkey, then fill the inside 
with sausage meat, with or without 
tongue : if with tongue the tongue should 
be boiled the day before ; cut off the root 
and tip to the length of the turkey ; if 
you have a fowl to spare, wrap the 
23 



tongue in this after it is boned, and place 
it in the middle of the turkey surround 
ed with sausage meat ; introduce trufiies 
if you like ; if roasted, a slow fire, and 
it will take a.long time to roast through ; 
if for boiling, cover it with fat bacon and 
slices of lemon tied in a cloth, pour 
whatever sauce you propose over the 
turkey. 

970.-TUKKEY HASHED. 

Cut up the remains of a roasted tur- 
key, put it into a stewpan with half a gill 
of sherry wine, shalots, truffles, mush- 
rooms, chopped parsley, salt, pepper, two 
spoonfuls of cullis, and a little stock ; 
boil half an hour, and reduce to a thick 
sauce. When ready add a pound of an- 
chovies, and a squeeze of lemon. Skim 
the sauce free from fat, and serve alto- 
gether. 

971.— FORCED TURKEY OR FOWL. 

Take all the bones from the turkey, fill 
it in again with either good sausage meat 
or veal forcemeat, with or without truf- 
fles as may be required, braise it in a 
cloth keeping it a good shape ; when 
done glaze the breast a good color ; use 
silver skewers to ornament with, and 
any of the sauces named or a fricandeau 
sauce under it. 



French Cooks' Knife. 

972.— TUIiKEY POULT 

Should be roasted without stuflBng ; it 
will be done with a clear fire in twenty 
minutes. Serve with bread or gravy 
sauce, 

973.— TURKEY "WITH FLAT SAUSAGE CAKE. 

Roast as before; fry thirty oval flat 
sausages, the same quantity of the same 
sized pieces of bacon, a quarter of an 



358 



TnE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



inch thick; make a border of mashed 
potatoes about the size y)f a finger, one 
inch inside the edge of the dish, dress 
your sausages and bacon on it as a 
crown alternately, put your turkey in 
the middle, and gravy over, or glaze, if 
at hand. Plain boiled tongue may, of 
course, be served with the turkey, or 
separate on a dish of greens. If any re- 
mains of tongue from a previous day, it 
may be served instead of the sausages, 
cut the same shape as sausages, and 
warmed in a pan ; if so, put a nice green 
sprout between each piece. Bread sauce 
is generally served with this dish. 

974— SOTEE'S BOILED BRAISED TURKEY. 

Truss it thus : cut the neck, leaving 
the skin on ; cut the legs ofi'; then run 
the middle finger into the inside, raise 
the skin of the legs, and put them under 
the apron of the turkey, put the liver 
and gizzard in the pinions, turn the small 
end of the pinions on the back, run a 
packing needle with string through the 
joint of the wing and middle joint of the 
leg, and through the body, and out at 
the opposite leg and wing, bring it round 
and tie it on the back, then run the 
needle and string through the ends of the 
legs or drumstick, press it through the 
back, and tie strongly ; it is then ready. 
When the turkey is trussed, then stuff 
it ; and if intended to have oyster sauce 
with it, chop about two dozen of oysters 
into small dice and mix them with the 
stuffing, and place inside the breast. Then 
rub the breast with half a lemon, and 
put it into a two-gallon pan, and cover it 
with cold water, to which are added two 
ounces of butter, one ounce of salt, four 
onions, a stick of celery, one carrot, two 
turnips sliced, a large bouquet of parsley, 
two bay leaves, two sprigs of thyme ; set 
it on the fire, when beginning to boil 
skim it. let it simmer two hours or more 
if large ; try the breast with a needle, if 
it goes in and out easily it is done ; take 



it out and set it on a dish to drain, re- 
move the string, serve on a fresh dish 
with a pint of good thick oyster sauce 
over it. By omitting the oysters in 
stuffing, you may serve the turkey with 
celery sauce, tomato, or mushroom, or 
good parsley and butter ;. and, as an ac- 
companiment, a piece of about two pounds 
of nice streaked bacon, which has bceii 
boiled with the turkey, and from which 
you have removed the skin, and serve on 
some greens, or Brussels sprouts, over 
which you have thrown ar little salt, pep- 
per, and two ounces of oiled butter. 

You see, dear , that this dish can be 

varied without much expense and 
trouble; observe, that this way, the 
broth is good for soup the same day, by 
the addition of two pounds of veal cut in 
small pieces, a quarter of a pound of lean 
bacon, one onion, one blade of mace, a 
leek, a wineglass of water ; put it into a 
separate stewpan, stew on fire till form- 
ing a white glaze, then add it to the tur- 
kej^, when on the point of boiling ; when 
done, skim off all fat, pass it through a 
tammy or cloth ; you may use it for any 
clear soup by adding a little brown gravy 
or coloring, and also for any kind of 
pur^e ; or, by reducing it a little, make 
white or brown sauce, adding to the last 
the proper color. 

I must observe, that this will be al- 
most inpracticable when you have a 
partj' ; the only plan would be to get the 
turkey done one hour before you require 
it, keeping it hot with its breast in some 
of the stock ; but, as the broth will keep 
well in small quantities, it can be reserv- 
ed for the next day. That is my plan of 
boiling, but the following is my new way 
of giving the flavor of vegetables to all 
poultry, which is a decided improvement. 
The aroma from the bird when the cover 
is removed is quite inviting, and the ap- 
pearance of it, which is as white as alabas- 
ter, and cuts also full of juice : I call 
it. 



TTJEKET. 



359 



975.— EOAST BRAISED TUEKET (Soyer.) 

Peel and wash two onions, one carrot, 
one turnip, cut them in thin slices, also 
a little celery, a few sprigs of parsley, 
two bay-leaves, lay three sheets of paper 
on the table, spread your vegetables, and 
pour over them two or three tablespoon- 
fuls of oil ; have your turkey, or poularde, 
trussed the same as for boiling ; cut a 
few slices of lemon, which you place on 
the breast to keep it white, then cover 
with thin slices of bacon, and place the 
back of the bird on the vegetables ; tie 
the paper round with string, then pass 
the spit and set it before the fire ; pour 
plenty of fat over to moisten the paper 
and prevent it from burning, roast three 
hours at a pretty good distance from the 
fire : capons will take two hours, pou- 
lardes one hour and a half, fowls one hour, 
and chickens half an hour. This way it 
may be served with almost any sauce or 
garniture, as stewed peas, oyster sauce, 
jardiniere, stewed celery, cauliflower, 
stewed cucumbers, Jerusalem artichokes, 
which should be turned in the shape of 
a pear : these should be dished on a 
border of mashed potatoes ; that is, an 
artichoke and a Brussels sprout alter- 
nately, or a small piece of white cauli- 
flower, and a small bunch of green as- 
paragus, or stewed peas, or stewed celery, 
of two inches long, never more ; or any 
other vegetable, according to season, 
which taste or fancy may dictate. When 
I want to serve them with brown gar- 
niture or sauce, I remove the paper and 
vegetables twenty minutes before it is 
done, and give it a light golden color, 
then I serve it with either a ragout finan- 
cier, or mushroom, or English truffle. I 
also often stuif it thus : I put two pounds 
of sausage meat in a basin with a little 
grated nutmeg ; I then take two table- 
spoonfuls of chopped onions, put them in 
a saute-pan with a little butter, and let 
them do for two minutes, which add to 



the meat, also two eggs well beaten up, 
and a quarter of a pint of white sauce, if 
at hand, and fifteen fine roasted chesnuts ; 
add this to the stuflBng, and fill the bird 
as usual, not too full at the breast ; roast 
as above, giving half an hour longer for 
the forcemeat ; put a quart of demiglaze 
and a glass of sherry in a stewpan, re- 
duce it to a pint and a half, add in it 
fifty button onions previously stewed, 
and twenty-five roasted chesnuts ; sauce 
under. 

976. -TUEKET, IP OLD. 

The French stew it exactly like the 
ribs of beef. Soyer says : — Put a quarter 
of a pound of butter into a convenient- 
sized stewpan, such as will conveniently 
hold it ; cut one pound of lean bacon in 
ten or twelve pieces, put a few minutes 
in the pan on the fire ; then add your 
turkey trussed as for boiling, breast 
downwards ; set it on a moderate fire for 
one hour, and until it is a nice color ; add 
two table-spoonfuls of flour, and stir well 
round until it forms a roux ; then add 
two quarts of water or broth ; when you 
have it on the point of boiling, add fifty 
pieces of carrot the size of walnuts, the 
like of turnip, ten button onions, a good 
bouquet of sprigs of thyme, two bay- 
leaves, and ten of parsley, a small glass 
of rum, a clove, a piece of garlic, and let 
it stew gently for four hours. If you use 
water, season in proportion. Take the 
turkey out, and put the vegetables and 
sauce in a smaller stewpan, which ought 
to be nearly full ; let it simmer on the 
corner of the fire, so that the fat rises and 
may be removed, and reduce it to a demi- 
glaze ; dish up the turkey, and serve with 
the sauce over it ; small new potatoes, 
about twenty, when in season, may be 
added to the sauce, or roasted chesnuts. 
The remains are excellent when cold, or 
ViU warm again with the addition of a 
little broth or water. 



360 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



FOWLS. 

Fowls, in a general sense, mean all 
kinds of poultry ; but, in a limited view, 
one species of bird. We distinguish this 
kind in cookery, as the chicken, capon, 
pullet, cock, and hen. Chickens from 
their age cannot be otherwise than ten- 
der. Capons should have a fat vein under 
the wing ; thick belly and rump ; comb 
short and pale; spurs short and blunt, 
and legs smooth. Pullets are best in the 
spring, just before they begin to lay. 
Cocks should have their spurs short, legs 
smooth, and comb short, smooth, and a 
bright color. Hens, legs and comb 
smooth, and full breast. Black legs are 
best for roasting and entrees, and white 
for boiling. 

For preparing them for table, M. Soyer 
invented a plan : — by cutting the sinews 
of the bird, it not only appears fuller and 
plumper when cooked, as the heat is lia- 
ble to contract the sinews, but it also af- 
fords facility for carving when the sinews 
are divided ; they are trussed in the usual 
way, only using strings instead of skewers. 

977.— TURKEY PULLED AND GRILLED 
Is a mode of preparing the remains of 
cold turkey, by mincing the white meat 
and fricasseeing it with white sauce ; the 
legs being scored, peppered, and salted, 
broiled, and sent up over the mince. 

Or devilled^ as thus: — On the rump, 
gizzard, and a drumstick, put salt, pep- 
per, and cayenne. Let them be broiled, 
and brought, to table as hot as possible ; 
cut them in small pieces ; pour over them 
a ladle of mustard, ditto of melted but- 
ter, a spoonful of soy, ditto of lemon-juice, 
and some of the gravy out of the dish; 
mix quickly and hand round. It forms 
an admirable relish ; fowls may be treated 
in the same manner. 

978.— CAPON, OR POULARDE, 

Should be stuffed and roasted, or other- 



wise dressed, in precisely the same man- 
ner as turkey. They are the male and 
female of the common fowl, but, when 
caponed, grow nearly to the size of tur- 
keys, and are very rarely, if ever, boiled. 

979.-1 LA PROVENgALE. 

Half roast the fowl ; cut it in pieces ; 
take a dozen onions ; cut them in rings ; 
add a little parsley chopped. Place them 
in a stewpan, laying a bed of onions and 
parsley, then fowl, till the whole are used ; 
add a glass of oil or cream, with one or 
two bay leaves and salt ; let them simmer 
slowly ; dish the fowl ; put the onions in 
the middle ; add a little sauce, and send 
it to table. 

980.— POELlfcE TO BOIL FOWLS IN. 

Take two pounds of veal and two 
pounds of bacon ; cut both into large dice ; 
cut also two large carrots and two onions 
into dice; put them, with a pound of 
butter, into a stewpan, the juice of four 
lemons, a little thyme or sweet fennel, 
and two laurel-leaves bruised ; season it 
with salt and pepper ; put them on a good 
fire ; add a spoonful of boiling broth, and 
boil it. 

981.— FOWLS, FORCED. 

Cut a large fowl down the back ; re- 
move the skin from the whole of the body 
very carefully ; cut the flesh from the 
bones, and chop it up finely with half a 
pint of oysters, and an ounce of beef mar- 
row ; then season with pepper and salt. 
Add suflBcient cream to mix it well ; lay 
the meat on the bones; draw the skin 
over, and sew up the back. Lay thin 
slices of bacon on the breast ; tie them on 
in diamonds, and roast it an hour by a 
moderate fire. Pour a good brown gravy 
sauce into the dish. Remove the bacon 
from the fowl, and then place the fowl in 
the dish. Garnish with oysters or mush- 
rooms, and serve hot. 



FOWL. 



361 



982.— E OAST FOWLS. 

If nicely trussed, make a stuflBng with 
butter and some pepper, dry up the butter 
with bread-crumbs, baste it well, and flour 
and salt before you take it from the fire. 
If approved of, stuff the fowl with some 
good sausage-meat, trufiies, or chestnuts, 
roast it twenty minutes, unless a very 
fine one, and then it will take three quar- 
ters of an hour ; serve with bread sauce, 
or parsley and butter ; egg sauce is some- 
times sent to table with it. 

If a small lump of salt butter. weU 
covered with black pepper, is placed with- 
in the fowl previous to roasting, it will 
be found to improve the fowl by remov- 
ing the dryness which is met with in the 
back and side bones. 

983.— BOILED FOWLS. 
Flour a white cloth, and put the fowls 
in cold water ; let them simmer three 
quarters of an hour, serve with parsley 
and butter, or oyster or celery sauce. 
The fowls may be covered with a white 
sauce if sent cold to table, garnished 
with colored calf's-foot jelly of the hue 
of beet-root. 

Boiled withOysters.— Take a joungfowl, 
fiU the inside with oysters, put it into a jar, 
and plunge the jar in a kettle or saucepan 
of water. Boil it for an hour and a hah". 
There will be a quantity of gravy from 
the juices of the fowl and oysters in the 
jar ; make it into a white sauce, with the 
addition of egg, cream, or a little flour 
and butter; add oysters to it, or serve 
it up plain with the fowl. The gravy 
that comes from a fowl dressed in this 
manner will be a stiff" jelly the next day ; 
the fowl will be very white and tender, 
and of an exceedingly fine flavor — ad- 
vantages not attainable in ordinary boil- 
ing — while the dish loses nothing of its 
delicacy and simplicity. 

984— TO BEAISE A FOWL. 

Bone the breast, and fill it with 



forcemeat. Lay the bones, and any 
other poultry trimmings, into a stew- 
pan, and the fowl on them. Put to 
them a few onions, a fagot of herbs, three 
blades of mace, a pint of stock, and a 
glass or two of sherry. Cover the fowl 
with slices of bacon, and then with white 
paper , cover the whole close, and put it 
on a slow stove for one hour. Then take 
it up, strain the braise, and skim off the 
fat carefully ; set it on to boil very quickly 
to a glaze, and put it over the fowl with 
a brush. Serve with a brown fricassee 
of mushrooms. Before glazing, put the 
fowl into an oven for a few minutes, to 
give a little color. 

With Bice. — The fowl should be stew- 
ed very slowly in some clear veal or mut- 
ton broth, well skimmed, and seasoned 
with pepper, salt, mace, and an onion. 
About half an hour before it is ready add 
a gill of rice, well washed and soaked ; 
simmer until tender, then strain the rice 
from the broth, and lay it on a sieve be- 
fore the fire to swell ; then dish the fowl 
with the rice round it. 

White sauce is the most fashionable 
accompaniment, the old method of dish- 
ing with parsley and butter being on the 
decline; but as parsley still maintains 
its ground with many people, it is advis- 
able to boil a sufficient quantity : press 
and chop it, garnishing the dish with 
small mounds thus prepared, which may 
be mixed at table with the white sauce 
by the guests who like the flavor of 
parsley. Liver-sauce is sometimes served 
with boiled fowls, but celery or oyster- 
sauce is preferable. 

985.- FOWL HASHED. 

This receipt will serve for any but the 
very larger species of poultry or game ; 
joint them and cut a cutlet from each 
side of the breast. If it has not been 
eaten when previously dressed, break the 
bones of the body, and put all into a 



362 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



stewpan with a pint of water, a small 
feggot of sweet herbs, one carrot sliced, 
and an onion ; let it stew an hour and 
three quarters, or two hours, skim the 
fat from the gravy as it rises, strain it, 
skim again, and pour it into another 
stewpan ; thicken with a little butter 
and flour, flavor with Harvey's sauce, or 
any «auce applicable to such a dish, a 
little pepper and salt, and ground nut- 
meg, or mace for seasoning ; add the 
fowl, and heat it thoroughly through 
without permitting the hash to come to 
a boil. Sippets of toasted or fried bread 
cut in dice surround the dish, in the 
centre of wnich the fowl is handsomely 
laid. 

9S6.— PPJED FOWL. 

When you have cut the pieces as be- 
fore, put them into a basin with a little 
salt and pepper, a spoonful of oil, and 
two of vinegar, and a httle chopped 
eschalot ; stir them well in it, and let re- 
main for half an hour ; have ready a quan- 
tity of batter, and take a fork and dip 
each piece one after the other into it, and 
then let it drop into the frying-pan, in 
which is sufficient hot fat to cover them ; 
fry a nice color, and serve in the form of 
a pyi'amid, with fried parsley over, or 
any sauce you hke under. 

987.— FOWL PILLAU. 

Put one pound of rice into a ftying- 
pan with two ounces of butter, which 
keep moving over a slow fire, until the 
rice is lightly browned ; then have ready 
a fowl trussed as for boiling, which put 
into a stewpan, with five pints of good 
broth ; pound in a mortar about forty car- 
damom seeds with the hu.sks, half an 
ounce of coriander seeds, and sufficient 
cloves, allspice, mace, cinnamon, and pep- 
percorns, to make two ounces in the ag- 
gregate ; which tie up tightlj'- in a cloth, 
and put into the stewpan with the fowl ; 
let it boil slowlj^ until tlie fowl is nearly 



done ; then add the rice, which let stew 
until quite tender and almost dry ; have 
ready four onions, which cut into slices 
the thickness of half crown pieces ; sprin- 
kle over with flour, and fry, without 
breaking them, of a nice brown color ; 
have also six thin slices of bacon, curled 
and grilled, and two eggs boiled hard ; 
lay the fowl upon your dish, which cover 
over with the rice, forming a pyramid ; 
garnish with the bacon, fried onions, and 
the hard-boiled eggs cut into quarters, 
and serve very hot. 

938.— TO BEOIL A FOWL. 

Split the fowl down the back ; season 
it very well with pepper, and put it on 
the gridiron with the inner part next the 
fire, which must be very clear. Hold 
the gridiron at a considerable distance 
from the fire, and allow the fowl to re- 
main until it is nearly half done ; then 
turn it, taking great care that it does not 
burn, BroU it of a fine brown^ and serve 
it up with stewed mushrooms, or a sauce 
with pickled mushrooms. A duck may 
be broiled in the same way. If the fowl 
is veiy lai'ge, half roast it ; then cut it 
into four quarters and finish it on the 
gi'idiron. 

9S9.— FRICASSEE OF FOWL. 

Put the fowl into a jar, with sliced 
onion, parsley, salt, and a piece of butter 
rolled in flour ; let it remain in a kettle 
of water on the fire until three parts done ; 
then skim and strain the liquor, and after 
draining, wipe the fowl dry. Put it into 
a .«tewpan, with a piece of butter and a 
.slice or two of ham ; throw in a little 
flour, and shake it until it is of a good 
color. IMoisten with the liquor taken out 
of the jar, adding parsley, young onions, 
a bay leaf, a clove, sorrel, and mushrooms 
cut into pieces ; skim it, and let it stew 
until done ; then take out the herbs, and 
thicken the sauce with a little cream, but 



do not let it boil: finish with a little 
lemon-juice, and pour the sauce over all. 

Or : — Kather more than half-boil in a 
smaU quantity of water: let the fowl 
cool ; then cut up, and put to simmer in 
a little gravy made of the liquor it is 
boiled in, and a bit of veal or mutton, 
onion, mace, and lemon-peel, some white 
pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs. 
When quite tender, keep it hot while you 
thicken the sauce in the following man- 
ner : strain it off, and put it back into the 
saucepan with a little salt, a scrape of 
nutmeg, and a bit of flour and butter; 
give it one boil ; and when you are going 
to serve, beat up the yolk of an egg, and 
half a'pint of cream, and stir them over 
the fire, but do not let them boil. 

990.— POillLife. (French.) 

Poel6 is almost the same operation as 
braising ; the only difference is, that what 
is poele must be underdone, and a braise 
must be done through- 

As the poele has no translation, it re- 
tains its name ; it is indispensable in fine 
cookery, and is made as follows : — 

Take one pound of beef suet, one pound 
of very fresh butter, and one pound of 
very fat bacon; cut the suet and the ba- 
con into very large dice ; put them into a 
stewpan with two pounds of veal cut in 
the same manner, fried till the veal be- 
comes very white, and then moisten with 
about three pints of clear boiling water, 
a handful of salt, one bay leaf, a few sprigs 
of thyme, one onion stuck with three 
cloves, and a great bundle of parsley and 
green onions : let the whole boil gently 
till the onion is done; then drain it 
through a hair sieve, and use it for any 
thing that may want poele. The use of 
poele is to make every thing boiled in it 
very white and tasty : in the winter it 
keeps for a week, and is very useful in 
the larder, particularly if you do not put 
in any of the fleshy part of the bacon ; 



otherwise the meat that you boil in it will 
turn quite red, on account of the saltpetre 
used in curing the bacon. 

991.— EISSOLES. 

Pick from the bones and skin any kind 
of cold poultry ; weigh it, and add one- 
thicd of grated bread-crumbs, a little cold 
melted butter, a small onion, previously 
boiled and finely minced, pepper, salt, and 
the yolks of two eggs, to bind it together. 
Roll out, thin, some trimmings of puflf- 
paste; cut it in two inch square pieces; 
put in the middle of each a teaspoonful 
of the mince ; fold the paste over it, and 
shape it with a cutter. Egg the shapes ; 
dip them in bread-crumbs, and fry them 
in lard ; serve dry ; garnish with fried 
parsley, and take care that the edges be 
perfectly closed. 

Or: — Pound any kind of cold meat; 
thicken a little good gravy with cream or 
butter ; season the meat, and mix it with 
the sauce, until it is well moistened ; then 
roll out some paste into oval pieces ; lay 
a large table-spoonful of the meat on one 
end ; double it over ; press the edges to- 
gether, and scallop them ; brush the paste 
over with yolk of egg ; sprinkle vermicelli 
upon it, and fry them. 

991.— PUE£E DE VOLAILLE. 

Mince the white part of a cold fowl or 
turkey very finely ; then pound it in a 
mortar : put in two or three spoonfuls of 
white sauce, and pass it through a sieve, 
adding a little salt and white pepper, and 
warm the whole. It may be served up 
with the legs grilled. It should not be 
too thin, but can be made the proper con- 
sistence by a greater or smaller quantity 
of white sauce or cream. Garnish with 
fried bread, or paste cut in shapes. It 
may also be served up in a casserolle, or 
wall of rice and mashed potatoes, or with 
poached eggs. 



364 



THE PRACTICAI. HOUSEKEEPER. 



993.— BOILED CHICKENS. 

Chickens should be plump, or they 
form a meagre dish ; they should receive 
much attention in the boiling ; they re- 
quire less time than a fowl, and are sent 
to table with white sauce, and garnished 
with tufts of white broccoli. 

994— CHICKENS PULLED. 

Remove the skin carefully from a cold 
chicken, then pull the flesh from the 
bones, preserving it as whole as you can. 
Flour them well, fry them a nice brown 
in fresh butter ; draw them, and stew in 
a good gravy well seasoned ; thicken a 
short time before serving with flour and 
butter, and add the juice of half a lemon. 

995.— CUEKIED CHICKENS. 

Lay the pieces of a dressed chicken 
into a stewpan with a sliced onion fried 
brown, a clove of garlic, and some good 
white gravy : simmer till the chicken is 
tender, add a spoonful of curry powder, 
flour rubbed smooth with a lump of but- 
ter ; a quarter of a pint of cream, with a 
little salt, may be added twenty minutes 
before serving : squeeze a little lemon 
into it, and put an edging of rice round 
the dish. 

99G.— TO BEAISE CHICKENS. 
Bone the chickens, stuff them with 
forcemeat, place in the stewpan the bones 
and trimmings : lay the chickens upon 
them with a braise of sweet herbs, onions, 
mace whole, some thin slices of bacon, 
about three parts of a pint of stock, or, 
if that is not handy, water, two glasses 
of sherry : the bacon should be added 
last. Cover close, and stew for two 
hours. Then take out the chickens, 
strain the braise, remove the fat, and 
boil the braise rapidly to a glaze, paint 
it over the chickens with a brush while 
the braise is being boiled ; brown the 
chickens before the fire ; it adds to their 



appearance. When glazed, fowls may be 
braised in the same manner. 

99T.— FPvIED CHICKEN A LA MALABAE. 

The Indian receipts for cooking chicken 
are very numerous ; we select the fol- 
lowing. Cut up the fowl as for a stew, 
removing the joints carefully and carving 
the body into handsome shapes ; remove 
all moisture with a clean dry cloth, and 
powder every part with curry ; fry it in 
fresh butter, to which half a teaspoon - 
ful of curry has been added, a pale 
brown ; cut into small pieces two or three 
onions, and fry in clear butter, sufficient 
to keep the pan from burning ; but not 
more than should be absorbed by the onion 
after some time frying. It is as well here 
to say, that as onions are frequently used 
in the curried poultry by the Indian 
cooks, they employ the following method. 
When to be cut small, they shce the 
onions and then separate them into rings, 
cutting these rings into the sizes they 
may require, which, if a little more labor, 
yet presents a better appearance ; when 
they are fried sufficiently to have absorb- 
ed the grease in the pan without in any 
degree having been burned, spread them 
over the chicken and serve ; a whole 
lemon should be sent to table with them. 

99S.— PIGEONS ROASTED. 
Veal stuffing for pigeons improves the 
flavor ; they must be fresh and well 
cleaned ; butter and parsley may be 
served with them, but parsley alone as a 
stuffing, though frequently used, is by no 
means so palatable as the veal stuffing, or 
one made with veal, the fat of bacon and 
the crumb of bread soaked in milk and 
well seasoned. Let j^our pigeons be 
piclced clean and washed, then stuff the 
whole inside of the pigeon with fine stuf- 
fing. 

To Broil. — Split the backs, season them 
highly, lay them over a clear brisk fire ; 
serve with mushroom sauce. 



PIGEONS. 



365 



To CooTc as WoodcocTcs. — Toast some 
bread as for woodcocks, butter it, and 
drop a few drops of essence of anchovies 
on the buttei-, spread it all over the 
toast, then put the toast under the pi- 
geons while roasting. 

To Stew. — Take a white cabbage, ci^t 
it as for pickling, rinse it in clear cold 
water, drain it well, put it into a sauce- 
pan with equal quantities of milk and 
water, boil it, strain off the milk, and 
take a portion of the cabbage and lay it 
in a stewpan ; soak the pigeons for half 
an hour in cold milk and water, season 
them well with salt and pepper, adding a 
little cayenne ; place them in the stew- 
pan with the cabbage, cover them over 
with what remains, add some white broth, 
stew slowly until the pigeons are tender, 
thicken with a little cream, flour, and 
butter; let it boil, and serve up the 
pigeon with a puree of the cabbage. 
Lard and braise them in the same man- 
ner as chickens. 

991).— C0MP6TE OF PIGEONS. 

Blanch four pigeons, then s.uff them, 
place them in a stewpan, put in an on- 
ion, a slice of lemon, and a small handful 
of mushrooms ; lay over them slices of 
fat bacon, add half a pint of good gravy, 
and stew gently until the pigeons are 
tender ; take them out of the gravy and 
keep them hot, strain off the gravy, skim 
it clear, then thicken with half a spoon- 
ful of flour, and a lump of butter, the 
size of a small walnut ; season with salt, 
pepper, and a little cayenne ; a few force- 
meat balls may be added at pleasure ; 
pour half into the dish with the pigeons, 
and serve the remainder in a tureen. 

1000. -PIGEONS IN JELLY. 



with a bunch of sweet herbs, a blade of 
mace, white pepper, a slice of lean bacon, 
some lemon-peel, and the pigeons, which, 
being trussed and their necks propped up 
to make them appear natural, season to 
your palate. Bake them ; when they are 
done remove them from the liquor, but 
keep them covered close, that their color 
may be preserved. Remove the fat, boil 
the whites of a couple of eggs with the 
jelly to clear it, and strain it ; this is 
usually done by dipping a cloth into 
boiling water, and straining it through it, 
as it prevents any thing like scum or dirt 
sweeping through the strainer. Put the 
jelly rough over and round the pigeons. 

1001.— PIGEONS OE ANY BIRD IN ASPIC 
JELLY. 

Get three pigeons, take out the bones, 
leaving on the neck and head ; fill the 
bii'ds with some forcemeat, making them 
the shape of the bird, cover them with 
fat bacon, put them on a dish, place them 
in the oven until done, take them out to 
get cold, have ready some very light 
colored a.spic jelly ; either chop your jelly 
round them on the dish or in a mould, if 
in a mould place the breast downwards, 
let the jelly be quite cold and beginning 
to set before you pour it in ; but if j^ou 
intend to ornament your mould, do it 
with green, red, and white devices, with 
what may then be in season ; radishes, 
whites of hard eggs, cucumbers, French 
beans, truffles, and any other eatable and 
wholesome thing: never use any thing 
that is injurious to health ; set it to get 
stiff, turn out with warm water. 

1002.-LAPvKS OE SMALL BIEDS. 

Be very particular in roasting ; melt a 



little butter, add to it a yolk of egg, and 

Make some jelly of calf's foot, or if i with your paste-brush egg all over them, 

you have the* liquor in which a knuckle and then bread-crumb them ; while roast- 

of veal has been boiled, it will answer ing frequently baste them and flour 

the same purpose ; place it in a stewpan j them, and before you take them up flour 



366 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



and salt them ; send them up with some 
brown bread-crumbs. 

1003— GUINEA FOWLS. 

These birds must be very young, for, 
being naturally very dry, they are not 
eatable if more than twelve months old ; 
they are generally larded, and served 
plain roasted, rather well done ; they are 
trussed like the common fowl, and re- 
quire neai-ly three-quarters of an hour to 
roast. It has very much the flavor of 
the pheasant, and should be allowed to 
hang as long as it can without being too 
far gone. Serve with a rich brown gravy 
and bread sauce ; it will take from forty- 
five to fifty minutes. 

lOOA— PEA FOWLS. 

These magnificent birds make a noble 
roast, and when young are very excel- 
lent ; they are larded, or plain roasted, 
and served with the tail feathers which 
have been preserved, stuck into the bird, 
the head, with its feathers on, being left 
folded up in paper, and tucked under the 
wing; roast about an hour and a half; 
take the paper from the head and neck ; 
dress it upon your dish with water- 
cresses, and the gravy and bread sauce 
separate in a boat. 



MADE DISHES OF POULTEY. 

1005.— FOWL A LA PEOVENgAL. 

Partly roast the fowl ; cut it up, de- 
taching the wings and legs, carefully di- 
viding side bones, neck bones, breast, and 
back in as handsome pieces as possible ; 
take eight or ten large onions, which cut 
in slices of moderate thickness, make in 
a stewpan a layer of the sliced onion 
with some chopped parsley, then lay 
upon it some qf the fowl, again a layer 
of the onion and parsley until the whole 



of the fowl and onion are used ; place in 
two bay-leaves and about as much salt 
as would fill a large teaspoon, four table- 
spoonfuls of olive oil, or, if that is not 
to the palate, substitute cream ; it should 
simmer gently until enough, and then be 
dished, the onion in the middle : serve 
With a little sauc 

1006.— FOWL A LA BlfeCHAMEL. 

If you have had a roast capon for the 
second course the day before, and only a 
little cut from the breast, take a sharp 
knife and cut through the breast bone 
down nearly to the rump, left of the 
breast, take off the skin and cut it up as 
you would for pulled fowl ; have ready 
in a stewpan a little good white sauce, 
chopped parsley, and shalot, a little piece 
of mushroom chopped ; boil all this to- 
gether, keeping it quite thick, scrape out 
any thing remaining in the inside of the 
fowl, then season with lemon-juice, salt, 
and cayenne pepper : fill in the fowl, imi- 
tating a whole fowl, cover it with bread- 
crumbs, sprinkle clarified butter all over 
the bread-crumbs, butter paper and tie 
round the fowl, put it into the oven to 
brown the top and get hot through ; 
when done a light brown take ofi' the 
paper, and put it into your dish with a 
good sauce under it. 

1007.— AN INDIAN PILAU. 

Truss a fowl as for boiling, pass it a 
few minutes in the oven, raising it up 
with fat bacon or buttered paper ; fry 
some onions, a few brui.sed coriander 
seeds, and a few cardamom seeds whole: 
fry a nice light color four onions cut in 
slices, add to this a gill or more of cream, 
having all fried in a little butter ; put in 
your fowl with some good veal stock, 
have ready some rice boiled in milk for 
two minutes, skim it off and add it to 
the fowl, frequently looking at it and 
moving it to keep it from sticking or 



DISHES OF POULTRY. GOOSE. 



367 



burning : let your fowl stew for a quar- 
ter of an hour before you add the rice : 
do not let the rice get mashed ; season 
with cayenne pepper and salt, put all the 
rice and liquor round the fowl : you can 
use rabbits, or chickens, or quails, or veal, 
instead of fowl, the same way. 

Gravy may be made thus : Nicely 
wash the feet of a fowl, and cut them 
and the neck into small pieces, simmer 
them with a little browned bread, a slice 
of onions, a bit of parsley, and thyme, 
some pepper, and salt, and the liver and 
gizzard in a quarter of a pint of water ; 
simmer them till they are reduced to a 
half; take out the liver, bruise it, and 
strain the liquor to it, then thicken it 
with flour and butter, and add a teaspoon- 
ful of mushroom ketchup. 

lOOS.— CUERY OP CHICKEN. 

Cut up a raw chicken ; put into a 
stewpan, with two ounces of butter, half 
a large onion sliced, thin, a few sprigs of 
parsley and thyme, and two ounces of 
lean ham ; let the whole sweat over the 
fire for a few minutes ; add a heaped ta- 
ble-spoonful of curry-powder, and a small 
one of flour ; shake the whole together 
for five minutes over the fire ; put to it 
a pint of either gravy or water ; let the 
whole go gently until the chicken is 
done ; take out the chicken, rub the sauce 
through a sieve, boil it up, skim, put in 
the chicken, season with salt and lemon- 
juice to palate. Plain boiled rice to be 
served in a separate dish. 

Croquettes. — Take the lean of the re- 
mains of a fowl from a previous dinner, 
and chop it up in small pieces, then put 
into a stewpan a teaspoonful of chopped 
eschalots, with half an ounce of butter : 
paos them for about three mirtutes over 
the fire, add a teaspoonful of flour, mix 
well, then add the fowl, and a gill of 
white sauce, or more if not sufficiently 
moist; season with pepper, salt, and 
sugar ; then stir in the yolks of two eggs 



very quickly, stir it a little longer on the 
fite, and turn it out on a dish to cool ; 
when cold, take twelve pieces, each the 
size of a walnut, roll them out an inch 
and a half in length, and bread-crumb 
twice over ; fry a good color. 

1009.— DUMPOKHT.* 

Clean and truss a fowl, or rabbit, as 
for roasting ; then stuff it with sultana 
raisins, pistachio-nuts, and boiled rice in 
equal parts. Rub fine one ounce of co- 
riander-seed, freed from the husks, four 
onions, a dozen peppercorns, six cloves, 
and a teaspoonful of pounded ginger. 
Set twelve ounces of butter in a stewpan 
over the fire, rub the pounded ingredi- 
ents over the fowl or rabbit, and let it 
fry until perfectly well browned and 
tender. Have boiled in a quart of white 
broth twelve ounces of rice, two ounces 
of raisins, two ounces of pistachio-nuts, 
and two of almonds, the two latter 
blanched, and cut into thin slices. When 
the rice is nearly tender, strain off the 
broth, and add the rice to the fried fowl ; 
stir the whole well, that the butter may 
completely saturate the rice, and keep it 
near the fire to swell till wanted. In 
serving surround the fowl wit'i the rice. 

Observe that, in pounding the onions, 
the juice only is used with the spices. 

1010.— TUEKEY GIBLETS A LA BOUE- 
GEOIS. 

The giblets consist of pinions, feet, 
neck, liver, and gizzard ; scald, and put 
them into a stewpan with a piece of but- 
ter, parsley, scallions. garlic, thyme, bay- 
leaf, basil, mushrooms, and a clove or two ; 
moisten with stock, season with pepper 
and salt, make it hot, thicken with a 
little flour, and when almost done add a 
few turnips tried slightly in a little but- 
ter. 

* A dish mentioned in the Arabian Nights as tba 
kid stuffed with pistachio-nuts. 



368 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



1011.— TO E0A8T A GOOSE. 

Goose in itself is of a^s*^rong rich fla- 
vor, and requires both nicety in the cook- 
ing as well as in the stuffing to obviate 
that strength of flavor. There are many 
modes of stuffing ; for one mode, take 
two moderate sized onions and boil them 
rapidly ten minutes, then chop them 
finely, mince sage to the quantity of 
half the onion, add of powdered bread 
twice as much as of onion, pepper and 
salt it, introducing a little cayenne, and 
then bind it with the beaten yolk of an 
egg. Potatoes mashed are sometimes 
introduced, but not frequently into the 
body ; they should be mashed with floury 
potatoes mixed with cream and a little 
fresh butter rather highly seasoned with 
cayenne and salt. Both ends of the 
goose should be secured when trussed, 
that the seasoning may not escape. It 
should be roasted before a quick fire and 
kept constantly basted ; a piece of white 
paper may be placed over the breast 
while roasting until it rises, and then it 
may be removed ; it will take from an 
hour and a half to an hour and three- 
quarters : serve with a rich brown gravy 
and apple sauce. 

Previous to sending to table, a flavor- 
ing may be made as follows : to a dessert- 
spoonful of made mustard add a quarter 
of a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, about 
the same quantity of salt, mix it evenly 
with a glass of port wine and two glasses 
of rich gravy, make it hot, cut a slit in 
the apron of the goose, and pour it 
through just previously to serving. 

A Green Qoose is seldom or never 
stuffed ; the inside may be well peppered 
and sailed, and it should be roasted be- 
fore a brisk fire about three-quarters of 
an hour ; it should be sent to table with 
no other accompaniment than a good 
brown gravy and apple or sorrel sauce. 

1012.— PRESERVED GOOSE FOR THE FARM 
OR COUNTRY HOUSE. 

In case you have more geese in condi- 



tion and season than what you consume, 
kill and cut them up into pieces, so that 
there shall be as little flesh left on the 
carcass as possible, and bone the leg ; 
rub into each piece with your fingei's 
some salt, in which you have mixed a 
little saltpetre ; put them into an earthen 
pan, with some thyme, bay-leaf, spice, 
a clove of chopped garlic, rub them for 
a couple of days, after which dip each 
piece in water, and dry on a cloth ; when 
you have chopped fine and melted all 
the fat you could get from the goose, and 
scraped a quarter of a pound of fat ba- 
con and melted with it, pass through a 
sieve into a stewpan, lay the pieces in it, 
and bake very gently in a slow oven, 
until a stiff piece of straw will go 
through it, then lay it in a sieve ; when 
nearly cold put it in a bowl or round 
preserving jar, and press a smaller one 
on the top, so that it all forms one solid 
mass, pour the fat over, when cold cover 
with a piece of bladder, keep it in a cold 
place, and it will be good for months to- 
gether, and is excellent for breakfast, 
luncheon, or supper, having previously 
extracted the fat. Last winter I kept 
some for three months quite sweet ; hav- 
ing half a one left, I put it by in the 
above way, bones and all, in a basin, and 
covered with the fat produced by roast- 
ing, and put it in the larder, and it was 
excellent. Ducks may be served in the 
same way. 

Marbled Goose. — Take a fine mellow 
ox-tongue out of pickle, cut off the root 
and horny part at the tip, wipe dry, and 
boil till it is quite tender ; then peel it, 
cut a deep sli': in its whole length, and 
lay a fair proportion of the following 
mixture witliin it : — ]Mace half an ounce, 
nutmeg half an ounce, clove half an ounce, 
salt two table-spo mfuls, and twelve 
olives. The olives should Ije stoned, and 
all the ingredients well pounded together. 
Next take a barn-door fowl and a good 
large goose, and bone them. Lay the 



DUCKS. 



369 



tongue inside the fowl, rub the latter out- 
side with the seasoning, and having ready 
some slices of ham divested of the rind, 
wrap them tightly round the fowl ; put 
these inside the goose, with the remain- 
der of the seasoning, sew it up, and 
make all secure and in natural shape 
with a piece of new linen and tape. Put 
it in an earthen pan or jar just large 
enough to hold it, with plenty of clari- 
fied butter, and bake it two hours and a 
half in a slow oven ; then take it out, 
and when cold take out the goose and set 
it in a sieve ; take off the butter and 
hard fat. which put by the fire to melt, 
adding, if required, more clarified butter. 
Wash and wipe out the pan, put the bird 
again into it, and take care that it is well 
covered with the warm butter ; then tie 
the jar down with bladder and leather. 
It will keep thus for a long time. When 
wanted for the table, the jar should be 
placed in a tub of hot water so as to 
melt the butter, the goose then can be 
taken out, the cloth taken off" it, and sent 
to table cold. A most delicious dish for 
breakfasts, suppers, pic-nics, &c. 



DUCKS. 

Ducks may be roasted as soon as kill- 
ed. Keep a clear bright fire. Let them 
be done of a light brown, but if wild they 
should not be much roasted, or the 
flavor will be spoiled. They take about 
an hour to roast, and should be well 
basted. The livers and gizzards are par- 
boiled, chopped fine, and thrown into the 
gravy. 

Canvas back ducks are roasted in half 
an hour ; they should always be served 
with currant jelly. For tame ducks apple 
sauce is more appropriate. 

1018.— TO STEW DUCKS. 

There is a difference between a stewed 



duck and stewed duck, and it is not the 
a alone ; in the one case the duck is 
stewed whole, and in the other in pieces. 
To stew a duck or ducks, they should be 
stuffed and roasted for twenty minutes, 
and then placed in a stewpan with an 
onion cut in slices, a little sage and mint, 
and sweet herbs chopped fine, and about 
a pint of good beef gravy, seasoned with 
pepper and salt ; let it stew gently for 
about twenty minutes, take out the duck 
carefully and keep it waim, strain the 
gravy, pour it into a clean stewpan, and 
add to it when well heated the duck and 
a quart of green peas ; let it simmer for 
half an hour, if not sufficiently thick add 
a little flour and butter, a glass of good 
old port wine, and send to table with the 
peas in the same dish as the duck. 

1014.— TO STEW A DUCK WITH CLAEET. 

Make a gravy of the giblets ; rub the 
duck inside and outside with pepper and 
a little salt; peel and mince two or three 
onions, and having half roasted the duck, 
put it into a stewpan with the gravy 
and onions. Stew it gently for two 
hours, adding toward the end a glass of 
claret or port wine. Squeeze the juice 
of a lemon over the duck, and serve it 
with toasted bread. 

What remains of a roasted wild duck, 
may be warmed the next day in heaters 
with a little currant jelly, when it is ex- 
cellent. 

Ducks may be hashed and stewed with 
a glass of port wine, thrown into the 
gravy. 

1015.— TO BOIL DUCKS. 

Clean and pluck them, let the skin be 
preserved from rents while plucking, salt 
them for about thirty hours previous to 
cooking, flour a clean white cloth and 
boil them in it ; a moderate sized duck 
will take about an hour's boilmg, make 
a rich onion sauce with milk, and send it 
to table vrith the duck. When the duck 



370 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



is boiled fresh it may be stuffed as for 
roasting, and served with the same de- 
scription of gravy. 

1016.— STEWED DUCK AND PEAS. 

Procure a duck trussed with the legs 
turned inside, which put into a stewpan 
with two ounces of butter and a quarter 
of a pound of streaked bacon, let remain 
over a fire, stirring occasionally until 
hghtly browned, when add a tablespoon- 
ful of flour mixed well, and a quart of 
broth or water : stir round gently until 
boiling, when skim, and add twenty but- 
ton onions, a bunch of parsley, with a 
bay-leaf, and two cloves, let simmer a 
quarter of an hour, then add a quart of 
nice young peas, let simmer until done, 
which will take about half an hour longer, 
take out the duck, place it upon your 
dish (taking awaj' the string it was truss- 
ed with), take ou ' the parsley and bay- 
leaf, season the peas with a little pepper, 
salt, and sugar, skim the fat, reduce a 
little if not sufficiently thick, pour over 
the duck, and serve. 

lOlT.— DUCKLING WITH TURNIPS 

Is a very favorite dish among the mid- 
dle classes in France. Proceed as in the 
last, but instead of peas use about forty 
pieces of good turnips cut into moderate- 
sized square pieces, having previously 
fried them of a light yellow color in a 
little butter or lard, and drained them 
upon a sieve ; dress the duck upon a dish 
as before, season the sauce with a little 
pepper, salt, and sugar : reduce until 
rather thick, a thin sauce not suiting a 
dish of this description ; the turnips 
must not, however, be in puree ; sauce 
over and serve. 

1018.— WILD DUCKS, OR TEAL. 

You must be very particular in not 
roasting these birds too much ; baste 
them very frequently ; teal will of course 



take less time ; but vour fire and motion 
of the spit must be attended to, and when 
you dish it, unless preferred to be done 
by the gentleman at the table, draw your 
knife four times down the breast; have 
ready a little hot butter, and juice of a 
lemon, cayenne pepper, a little dust of 
sugar, a glass of port wine, pour it all 
hot, the last minute, over your ducks 5 
the remainder left of those birds the next 
day makes excellent salmi or hash, tak- 
ing care of all the gravy that may re- 
main. 

They must be roasted at a very brisk 
fire ; they take from twelve to twenty min- 
utes, according to taste. Some people are of 
opinion that they should only fly through 
the kitchen : by epicures they are con- 
sidered to be in perfection when they 
come up dry and brown, and, when cut, 
flood the dish with gravy. The means 
of insuring success consists in a very ar- 
dent fire, rapid motion of the spit, and 
constant basting. The carver should 
score the breast of the duck, put a piece 
of butter on it, and cut a lemon in half, 
putting on one half a spoonful of salt, 
and on the other a cayenne -spoonful of 
cayenne ; put the two together, and 
squeeze vigorously over the duck. 

To stew. — Shred thyme, winter savory, 
and sage, very small, put them into some 
strong broth, with a little pepper, salt, 
and two spoonfuls of wine : stew them to- 
gether for one quarter of an hour ; nearly 
roast the ducks, add the gravy that falls 
from them, but not the fat ; then place a 
deep dish under them, and pour this sauce 
through, and over them into it. Remove 
the ducks, cut them up, and put them 
with the sauce into a stewpan over a 
stove, and let them stew till they are 
done enough. 

Canvas Back Duck should be cooked 
like wild duck, but nearer the fire, the 
fat being so delicate, that it requires to 
be cooked quickly ; good plain gravy is 



GAME. 



371 



all that is required to make them per- 
fect. 

1019— P.LOVEKS. 

Roast the golden plover in the same 
way as woodcocks and quails, without 
drawing ; and serve on a toast. 

Grey Plovers. — Draw them : they may 
be either roasted or stewed with gravy, 
herbs, and spice. , 

Plover'' s Eggs. — Boil them ten minutes.^ 
and serve either hot or cold ; the former 
on a napkin, the latter on moss. Send 
to table with the second course. 

1020.— PARTRIDGES, 

being less dry than pheasants, do not re- 
quire stuffing, although they are improv- 
ed by it, made either of chesnuts or 
truffles and bacon. They are sometimes 
roasted, wrapped in bacon and vine- 
leaves : bread-crumbs are essential. In 
some places pai'tridges are sent up with 
forcemeat-balls in the dish. 

1021— TO STEW PARTRIDGES. 

Truss them with the wings over the 
back, and the legs drawn in ; cut a piece 
of pork or bacon in long strips, and put 
them into a stewpan with a piece of 
butter the size of a walnut. Fry the 
bacon brown, and when quite done put 
in the partridges, and keep turning them 
until they are very brown, taking care 
that the bacon shall be as much on the 
breast as possible ; then add about a tea- 
cupful of gravy, and some trimmings of 
meat and vegetables. Have ready a 
large cabbage boiled ; when well drained, 
slice it with butter, pepper, and salt, put 
it while warm with the gi'avy to the par- 
tridges, and let them stew gently for an 
hour, turning the birds frequently. Serve 
up with the bacon underneath, and the 
cabbage round them, squeezed dry, and 
the sauce well skimmed. 



1022.— SALMI OF PARTRIDGE. 

Half roast the partridge.'^, cut them up 
neatly, take olF the skin ; put the trim- 
mings in a stewpan, with a bit of butter 
and a tablespoonful of flour; itir the 
whole over the fire ; then add a g^.ass of 
white wine and a littfe gravy or stock, 
some shalots; chopped parsley, thyme, 
bay-leaf pepper, salt; let it boil fast for 
half an hour ; strain, skim, add the juice of 
a lemon, and make the joints of the par- 
tridge hot in the sauce. 

Or : — Roast the partridges, leaving 
them underdone. When cold, cut them 
into pieces, taking ofl" tlie skin. Put three 
spoonfuls of oil in to a saT'cepan, a glass of 
claret, salt, pepper, a slialot, and the juice 
of a lemon. Toss the partridges in this 
sauce until they are sufficiently done to 
send to table. 

Or : — Cut up and place on a dish the 
breasts, wings, and legs of any roasted 
game you may have left; cover it with 
another dish, or tin cover, and set it over 
I a pan of boiling water to keep warm. 
j Then pound the small bones of the car- 
case, with the inside, in a mortar, and 
! put them into a saucepan with a little 
gravy thickened with some flour rolled 
in butter, a wine-glass of port wine, a 
spoonful of ketchup, a very small piece 
of shalot chopped fine, cayenne pepper, 
and salt. When it has been boiled for 
half an hour, strain it through a sieve, to 
form it into a perfect puree.^ and pour it 
over the game in your dish ; garnish with 
forcemeat-balls, and slices of lemon cut 
thin. 

1023.— BROILED PARTRIDGE. 

Cut the bird down the back ; break 
the merrj'thonght, wliich wi 1 allow it to 
be made quite fat ; cut off the feet at the 
joint, and skewer it as a fowl to broil ; 
dry. flour, egg, and spiinkle it with 
chopped herbs and bread-crumbs, well 
seasoned ; broil and serve with a little 



372 



THE PRACTICAL nOUSEKEEPER. 



good gravy, with a mushroom or two 
chopped up small. , 

1024— GROUSE. 
Mix a small lump of butter with a 
few bread-crumbs, and put it in the in- 
side of the birds — not in the crop — it 
keeps them moist. They require to be 
nicely roasted and well basted. 

1025.— RABBITS. 

To Fricassee a rabbit cut it in pieces, 
reserve the liver ; put a piece of bacon 
cut in slices into a stewpan, brown it 
well and lay it aside ; put the rabbit in 
the pan with a piece of butter ; turn and 
toss the rabbit well until it is quite 
white. When it is getting brown dredge 
a spoonful of flour over it, turning all the 
while, and when the flour is dry, put the 
rabbit in a plate. Then add another 
piece of butter to the remainirg sauce, 
and stir it well together, and when 
brown, add a cupful of water ; continue 
stirring, and put in the rabbit with 
plenty of very small onions, the bacon, 
some mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, 
and some salt and pepper ; let it stew 
very gently over a slow fire for four 
hours. Add the liver and a glass of port 
wine one hour before serving, and should 
there not be sufficient sauce, a little 
gravy from time to time, put in hot. 

When a rabbit is roasted, it should 
first be well stuffed. Serve it with sauce 
made of liver, parsley, and melted 
butter. Truss it like a hare. 

Rabbits may be stewed, or fried, or 
baked in a pie. 

Rabbits, being rather dry meat, are 
much improved by larding. Should the 
process be deemed too troublesome upon 
common occasions, a good effect may be 
produced by lining the inside of the rab- 
bit with slices of fat bacon previously to 
putting in the stuffing. This is a very 
easy method of improvement, and ought 
never to be neglected. 



A boned rabbit, larded, stuffed, and 
braised, affords a cheap and elegant side- 
dish for a dinner-party. 

1026.— TO MAKE RABBIT TASTE MUCH 
LIKE HARE. 

Choose one that is young, butfullgrown, 
hang it in the sk'u three or four days, 
then skin it, and lay it without washing 
in a seasoning of black pepper and all- 
spice in a very fine powder, a glass of 
port wine, and the same quantity of 
vinegar. Baste it occasionally for forty 
hours ; then stuff" it and roast it as a 
hare, and with the same sauce. Do not 
wash off" the liquor that it was soaked 
in. 

102T.— TO ROAST HARE. 
After it is skinned, let it be extremely 
well wiped ; and, if old, lard it, which 
will make it tender, as will also letting 
it lie in vinegar. If, however, it is put into 
vinegar, it should be exceedingly well 
washed in water afterwards. Put a large 
well-seasoned stuffing into the belly, and 
then sew it up. Baste it well with milk 
till half done, and afterwards with butter. 
The hare should be kept at a distance 
from the fire at first. Serve with a fine 
froth, rich gravy, and currant jelly sauce ; 
little gravy in the dish. For stuflBng 
use the liver pounded, an anchovy, some 
fat bacon, a little suet, herbs, pepper, 
salt, nutmeg, crumbs of bread, and an egg 
to bind it all. The ears must be nicely 
cleaned, singed, and made crisp, being 
reckoned a dainty. 

1028.— JUGGED HARE. 

Skin the hare, and cut it in pieces, 
but do not wash it ; strew it over with 
pepper and salt, fry it brown. Make a 
seasoning of two anchovies, a sprig of 
thyme, a little parsley, a nutmeg grated, 
a little mace, a few cloves pounded, and 
a teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel. 



KABBITS, &C. 



373 



Strew this over the hare, after having 
carefully taken it out of the pan clear of 
fat, slice half lb. of bacon very thin, put it 
into a jug or jar, a layer of hare and one 
of bacon upon it, until the whole is put 
in, then add rather less than half a pint of 
ale ; cover the jug very closely, so as per- 
fectly to keep in the steam ; put it into 
a kettle of cold water, lay a tile on the 
top of the jug, and let it boil three hours if 
the hare be young, or four or five if an old 
one. Take the jug out of the kettle, pick 
out all the bacon which has not melted, 
and shake the hare up in a stewpan, with 
a httle mushroom ketchup, a glass of 
port wine, a little mushroom powder if 
at hand, and a little butter and flour, 
well mixed together to thicken the 
gravy. A teaspoonful of lemon-pickle, 
and one of browning, will heighten the 
flavor. 

1029.— PILAU OF RABBIT. 

Cut up a rabbit or fowl ; pound a 
couple of onions in a mortar ; extract the 
juice, and mix it with a saltspoonful of 
ground ginger, a teaspoonful of salt, and 
the juice of a lemon: rub this into the 
meat ; cut up two onions in slices, and fry 
them in a quarter of a pound of butter. 
"When brown take them out and put in the 
meat ; let them stew together. Have one 
pound of rice half boiled in broth ; put the 
whole meat, &c., into a jar. with half a 
pint of milk, some whole peppercorns, half 
a dozen cloves, and a little more salt. Se- 
cure the mouth of the jar, and bake it un- 
til done enough, adding a little broth, 
should the butter and milk not be suffi- 
cient to moisten it. 

1030.— TO CRISP PARSLEY. 
Pick some bunches of young parsley, 
wash them, and swing them in a cloth to 
dry ; put them on a sheet of paper in a 
toaster before the fire, and keep them 
frequently turned, tUl they are quite 
crisp, which will be in about six or eight 
minutes. 

24 



1031.— TO FEY PARSLEY. 

When the parsley has been washed and 
thoroughly dried, throw it into lard or 
butter which is on the point of boiling ; 
take it up with a slice the instant it is 
crisp, and lay it on a paper on a sieve 
before the fire. A wire basket is the 
nicest thing to use for frying parsley, or 
any thing requiring to be fried. 

1032. FRIED BREAD FOR GARNISHING. 

Take slices of stale bread about a third 
of an inch thick, cut them into shapes 
with a paste-cutter, fry them in fresh 
butter a light brown, lay them upon a 
cloth to dry, and place them round the 
dish. They may be made to adhere by 
brushing the under part with a little flour 
mixed with white of egg. 

Bread crumhs. — All game and small 
birds are improved by the addition of 
bread crumbs, either fried or toasted ; 
the latter is the more delicate prepara- 
tion : grate the crumbs, and put them 
into a tin shallow dish before the fire, 
shaking them occasionally, until they are 
well browned : send them up in the dish ; 
with a tureen of good brown gravy made 
from the insides and trimmings of the 
birds, but without any kind of season- 
ing. 

1033.— RABBITS, TO SKIN, &c. 

Cut round the skin at the first joint 
of the hind legs, and pull the skin up a 
little, then run the knife between the 
sinew and the bone of the leg, so as to 
make a hole to hang it on a nail in a 
wall, with the head downwards ; run a 
knife along the skin inside the thigh as 
far as the tail, so as to cut it, then run 
the hand under the skin, and it will 
easily separate from the body ; pull it 
down towards the head, taking care not 
to tear the belly : when you have arriv- 
ed as far as the head, pull up the fore 
legs, cutting the feet off at the first joint ; 
then pull up the ears by running a 



374 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



skewer between the skin and the head, 
and pull the skin off, cutting the nose 
and lips ; remove it from the nail, cut off 
the hind feet at the fii'st joint ; cut open 
the body, remove the inside, reserve the 
liver, heart, and kidneys, and throw away 
the remainder ; wash out the inside. If 
for roasting, make the following stuffing : 
take the liver, heart, and kidneys, blanch 
them, put them into a fryingpan with a 
little fat, and one small onion chopped 
up ; saute a little, then remove and chop 
them up with two ounces of pork fat or 
bacon, a little parsley, and mix with 
bread crumbs and the yolk of an egg; 
stuff and sew up the belly. Trttss as 
follows : bring the hind and fore legs 
close to the body towards the head, run 
a skewer through each, then run a skew- 
er in at the mouth and through the neck, 
to keep it upright ; it should be exactly 
as if it was sitting. Put a string round 
the body from skewer to skewer, and it 
is ready. 



YENISON". 

1034.— THE HAUNCH. 

" The observed of all observers " when 
epicureans sit at table ; it is a joint, if 
properly kept, properly cooked and 
served hot, which must prove delicious. 
The delicacy of its flavor is obtained by 
hanging only: if it be cooked while 
fresh, it will not equal in any respect a 
haunch of mutton. 

The haunch of venison, when about to 
be roasted, should be washed in warm 
milk and water, and dried with a clean 
cloth ; if it has hung very long and the 
skin smells musty, it will be the safest 
plan to remove the skin and wrap the 
whole of the haunch in paper well greas- 
ed with fresh butter ; during the time it 
is at the fire, do not be afraid of basting 
it too much. If it be a buck haunch and 



large, it will take nearly four hours 
within five or ten minutes ; if compara- 
tively small, three hours and a half will 
suffice ; if a doe haunch, three hours and 
a quarter will be enough. 

All venison for roasting should have a 
paste made of lard over it ; after first 
having papered the meat with buttered 
paper, then your stiff paste upon the top 
of that, either dangle it or put it in a 
cradle spit ; a few minutes before you 
require to take it up take off the paste 
and paper, baste.it with some butter, 
salt it and flour it, when done give it a 
few more turns round, send it up very 
hot ; your dish and gravy is to be very 
hot also ; any dry pieces and the shank 
you will boil down with a little brown 
stock for the gravy ; send currant jelly 
in a boat, and French beans in a vege-, 
table dish. 

1035.— VENISON STEAKS. 

Cut them from the neck ; season them 
with pepper and salt. When the gridi- 
ron has been well heated over a bed of 
bright coals, grease the bars, and lay the 
steaks upon it. Broil them well, turn- 
ing them once, and taking care to save as 
much of the gravy as possible. Serve 
them up with some currant jelly laid on 
each steak. 

1036.— TO HASH VENISON 

Carve your venison into slices : let 
them be thin, and put them in a stewpan 
with two small glasses of port wine: 
add a spoonful of browning, one of ketch- 
up, an onion stuck with cloves, and half 
an anchovy chopped small, let it boil, 
then put in your venison, make it thor- 
oughly hot through. Lay sippets of 
toast, in various shapes in a soup dish, 
pour the hash upon it, and serve with 
currant jelly. 

10S7.— VENISON FRIED. 

Cut the meat into slices, fry a light 
brown, and keep hot before the fire. 



GAME. 



375 



Make gravy of the bones and any trim- 
mings, add a little floured butter, and 
stir until it is thick and brown, then add 
lemon-juice and port wine to taste, with 
pepper or cayenne. Warm the venison 
in the gravy, place in a dish, and strain 
the gravy over it. Serve with currant 
jelly in a glass. 

103S.— A SHOULDER OF VENISON STEWED. 

If you should have a very lean shoul- 
der, stew it in preference to roasting ; 
bone it, cover it with slices of mutton 
fat, which sometimes are first steeped in 
port to give a richer flavor, roll it up and 
bind it tightly. Lay it in a stewpan 
with a quantity of beef gravy, and the 
bones you have taken from the venison, 
add two glasses of port, a dessert-spoon- 
ful of whole pepper, and the same quan- 
tity of allspice. Cover down closely, 
and simmer until the venison is tender, 
take it out and remove the fat, thicken 
the gravy with flour and butter, and 
strain it over the meat. 

1039.-EOAST SHOULDER OF VENISON. 

Take the bones out of a shoulder of 
venison. Fill the cavity with the fat of 
a loin of mutton. Roast before a quick 
fire, basting it constantly with the drip- 
pings and a little port wine. It should 
be served underdone with a sauce of 
port wine, currant jelly and red pepper. 

The neck and shoulder, as together 
they may be termed the haunch joint, 
may be dressed exactly like the haunch, 
covered with a thin paste, and greased 
paper over that. 



Game ought not to be thrown away even 
when it has been kept a very long time ; 
for when it seems to be spoiled, it may 
often be made fit for eating by nicely 
cleaning it, and washing with vinegar 



and water. If there is danger of birds 
not keeping, draw, crop, and pick them ; 
then wash in two 'or three waters, and 
rub them with salt. Have ready a large 
saucepan of boiling water, and plunge 
them into it one by one, drawing theni 
up and down by the legs, that the water 
may pass through them. Let them stay 
five or six minutes in ; then hang them 
up in a cold place. When drained, pep- 
per and salt the inside well. By this 
method the most delicate birds may be 
preserved. Before roasting, wash them 
well. But, as a rule, no game should be 
washed, for one-half the game that is 
sent to table is spoilei by being satu- 
rated with water. 

In dressing Game be careful to keep a 
clear fire. Let it be done of a bright 
brown, but not much roasted, or the fine 
flavor will be destroyed. It requires to 
be continually basted, and to be sent up 
beautifully frothed. Wild-fowl take a 
much shorter time than domestic poul- 
try. 

1040.— TO DRESS A FAWN OK KID. 

They should be dressed as quickly af- 
ter being killed as it is convenient. If 
they are full grown they should be roast- 
ed in quarters, but if ver}^ young may 
be dressed, trussed, and stuffed exactly 
as a hare ; the quarters will be improved 
in flavor when the fawn is full grown, if 
they are covered with fat bacon, and 
basted as venison ; serve venison sauce 
with it. 

1041.— PHEASANTS. (English receipt.) 

Pheasants are rarely stuffed, it is more 
customary to send them to table accom- 
panied by forcemeat in the dish, in many 
cases with the simple gravy only; the 
real epicurean in game prefers the flavor 
of the bird uncontaminated by any ac- 
cessories save those which just assist to 



376 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



remove the dryness common to most 
game. Pheasants are sometimes lardecl, 
but as the flavor is entirely disguised by 
the taste of the bacon, incorporated 
with the flesh of the fowl, unless it is 
done more for appearance than palate, 
we would not advise it. 

In dressing the pheasant it should be 
drawn and cleaned as other game and 
trussed, should be roasted before a clear, 
not a fierce fire, and will take forty min- 
utes ; it must not be done too much, but 
must not on any account be sent to table 
underdone. 



1041.— WOODCOCK, SNIPE, ETC. 

To roast these birds, put them on a 
little spit, take a slice of wheaten bread, 
and toast it brown, then lay it on a dish 
under the birds ; baste them with a little 
butter, and let the trail drop on the 
toast. When they are roasted, put the 
toast in the dish, lay the woodcocks on 
it, and have a quarter of a pint of 
gravy ; pour it in a dish, and set it over 
a lamp or chafing-dish for three minutes ; 
and send them to table. Epicures say 
you should never take any thing out of 
a woodcock or snipe. The head of the 
woodcock is considered a great delicacy. 

To roast pheasants^ paTtridges^ qvails, 
and other small birds, pick and draw 
them immediately after they are brought 
in. If they are of a nature to be im- 
proved by it, lard them with small slips 
of the fat of bacon drawn through the 
flesh with a larding-needle. 

To roast reed-birds or ortolans^ put into 
every bird an oyster, or a little butter 
mixed with some finely sifted bread- 
crumbs. Dredge them with flour. Run 
a small skewer through them, and tie 
them on the spit. Baste them with lard 
or with fresh butter. They will be done 
in about ten minutes. Reed-birds are 
very fine made into little dumplings with 
a thin crust of flour and butter, and boil- 



ed about twenty minutes. Each must 
be tied in a separate cloth. 



VEGETABLES. 

The fresher all green vegetables are 
used after being taken from the ground 
the better ; and therefore nothing can 
be comparable to cutting them from your 
own garden ; but, when purchased in the 
market, care should be taken that those 
of the cabbage tril-e should appear crisp 
and vividly green : not too small, nor yet 
ovei-grown in size. 

When about to be used, the outer 
leaves should be stripped, the stalks cut 
short, and the vegetable immersed for an 
hour or two in cold water, into which 
should be put a handful of salt for the 
purpose of tlioroughl}' cleansing it from 
slugs, and those insects with which the 
leaves are commonly infested. All green 
vegetables should be put into boiling 
water. Never boil any species of greens 
with meat. Boil them in plenty of pure 
water, with salt, to which a little vinegar 
may be added with advantage ; do not 
cover the saucepan, but keep up a steady 
fire, so that they shall not be allowed to 
stop boiling until thoroughly done : drain 
them instantly, for if overboiled they 
lose their flavor and become insipid ; 
they should be well done, for if that be 
neglected for the purpose of preserving 
their crispness, they will be rendered in- 
digestible. 

Hard water spoils the color of such 
vegetables as should be green, but a very 
small bit of soda or carbonate of am 
monia will soften it, and even improve 
their brightness. The practice of putting 
pear lash in the pot to improve their 
color, should be strictly forbidden, as it 
imparts an unpleasant flavor ; as will also 
soda if not cautiously used. 



1042.— POTATOES 

Require no attention for the preserva- 
tion of their color, but their flavor will 
be spoiled if their dressing be not attend- 
ed to, which, although of the most 
simple nature, is frequently ill performed. 
The best mode of doing it is to sort 
the potatoes, and choose them of an 
equal size ; wash them with a scrubbing- 
brush, and put them into cold water suf- 
ficient to cover them, and no more. 
About ten minutes after the water has 
come to a boil, take out the half of it, 
and replace with cold water, to check it ; 
the reason assigned for which is, " that 
the cold water sends the heat from the 
surface to the heart, and makes the po- 
tatoes mealy." Then throw in a large 
handful of salt, leave the pot uncovered, 
and let it remain upon the fire to simmer 
until the potatoes are done ; this is the 
moment to be watched, for if overboiled, 
they will become waxy. The cook 
should, therefore, occasionally try them, 
by piercing them to the heart with a 
fork, and, when they are tender, the pot 
should be instantly taken ofi" the fire, 
and the potatoes passed through a colan- 
der to drain ; which being done, and the 
water thrown out, they should then be 
replaced upon a folded flannel, in the 
same pot, which should be left by the 
side of the fire to keep hot and to cause 
the evaporation of the steam. When 
served, they should be wrapped in a 
warmed cotton napkin. If of moderate 
size they will take about half an hour 
boiling, to which fifteen minutes must be 
added for evaporation, ere they can be 
sent to table. 




Potato Steamer and Saucepan. 



An iron pot is the best vessel for boil- 
ing potatoes in, since, after the water has 
been poured off, it retains sufficient heat 
to dry them thoroughly. 

A good and economical mode of 
dressing potatoes, when soup, meat, or 
other eatables are to be boiled, is to havo 
a tin strainer fitted to the mouth of the 
saucepan, so as to allow the steam to as- 
cend from the boiler. 

Notwithstanding the directions here 
given for coohing potatoes, there is a 
point, on which there exists a difference of 
opinion, that is resju'cting the peeling 
of the roots, whether before or after their 
being boiled ? 

In Lancashire, England, where they are 
largely grown and admirably boiled, they 
are first peeled ; while in Ireland they 
are invariably brought to table "with 
their jackets on." Count Rumford also 
recommends their being boiled in their 
skins; the cuisinier Bourgeois likewise 
thinks that " les p>om7ne8 des terre sont 
meuilleures en robe de cliambre?'' 

1043.— TO KEEP POTATOES. 

Buy them as dug from the ground, 
without taking off the earth which ad- 
heres to them, and never wash them un- 
til wanted to be dressed. Place them in 
a dry cellar, upon straw, and cover them 
in winter with straw or mats, to guard 
them from the frost. 

1044.— NEW POTATOES 

Should be dressed as soon as possible 
after being taken from the ground, and 
are always best when grown in frames. 
When washed, they should be rubbed 
with a coarse cloth, and a little salt to 
take off the thin outer skin, but they 
should not be peeled. Put them into 
boiling water ; they will require but a few 
minutes to do them ; send them to table 
in a hot napkin, unless covered with white 
sauce, which should be seasoned with a 



378 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



little salt and a slight gr{iting of nutmeg. 
When quite young they should never be 
sliced nor fried. 

1045.— POTATO FLOUK. 

Rasp the potatoes into a tub of cold 
water, and chani;e it repeatedly until the 
raspings fall to the bottom like a paste ; 
then dry it in the air, pound it in a mor- 
tar, and i^ass it through a hair sieve. It 
is nearly as nutritive, and much lighter 
than wheaten flour; it is, therefore, 
preferable for making puddings and 
pastry for infants and invalids ; a portion 
of it also improves the appearance of 
household bread, and dealers constantly 
pass it off as arrowroot. If kept dry, it 
will remain good for years. 

Jelly is made from the flour; only 
boiling water must be poured upon it, 
but care must be taken that it be ab- 
solutely boiling or the complete change 
into jelly will not take place. It does 
not take many minutes to thus change a 
raw potato into this substance, which is 
not only highly nutritive, but extremely 
agreeable to the palate, when flavored 
with a little sugar, nutmeg, and white 
wine. 

1046.— POTATO- WALL 
Or edging, to serve round fricassees, 
forms also a pretty addition to a corner 
dish. — Mash in a mortar as many boiled 
potatoes as you may want, with a good 
piece of butter ; then, with the bowls of 
two silver spoons, raise a wall of it two 
and a half inches high within the rim 
of the dish to be used. Let the upper 
part be a little thinner than the Jower ; 
smooth it ; and, after brushing it all over 
with egg, put it into the oven to become 
hot and a little colored. Before egging 
it, the outside may be ornamented with 
bits of paste cut into shapes. 

104T.— TO MASH POTATOES. 

Let them be thoroughly boiled ; peel 



them, and take out all the specks, and 
little hard lumps which are sometimes 
found. Beat them till quite fine in a 
wooden bowl or mortar, or break them 
thoroughly with a three-pronged fork ; 
sprinkle a little salt, and mix them up 
smoothly with butter or boiling milk. 
Take care that the potatoes shall not be 
too wet, or they will become heavy and 
watery ; great smoothness, lightness, and 
a rich taste arc required in mashed pota- 
toes : if required to be very fine, rub 
them through a colander or sieve before 
adding the boiling milk and butter. 




(Potato Masher.) 

104S.— POTATO-LOAVES 

Are very nice when eaten with roast 
beef or mutton, and are made of any por- 
tion of the mashed roots, prepared with- 
out milk, by mixing with them a good 
quantity of very finely minced raw 
shalot, powdered with pepper and salt ,• 
then beating up the whole with a little 
butter to bind it, and dividing it into 
small loaves of a conical form, and pla- 
cing them under the meat to brown, that 
is, when it is .so nearly done as to impart 
some of the gravy along with the fat. 

1049.— TO BROWN POTATOES. 

While the meat is roasting, and an hour 
before it is served, boil tne potatoes and 
take off" the skins ; flour them well, and 
put them under the meat, taking care to 
dry them from the dripping, before they 
are sent to table. The kidney potatoes 
are best dressed in this way. The flour- 
ing is very essential. 

Potatoes^ when boiled, if either waxy, 
or to be eaten with cold meat should be 
peeled and put whole upon the gridiron 
until nicely browned. 



Potatoes should always be toiled a 
little before being put into stews, &c., as 
the first water in which they are cooked 
is of a poisonous quality. 

Fried Potatoes may be cut from raw 
potatoes, pared round and round like an 
apple ; cut them in slices one half inch 
thick ; fry quickly, in plenty of hot fat, 
and with as little color as possible ; dry 
them well from the grease, and sprinkle 
with salt. When nicely done and piled 
up properly, fried potatoes make a 
beautiful side dish, which is always eaten 
with great relish. 

1050.— POTATO EISSOLES. 

Boil the potatoes floury ; mash them, 
seasoning with salt and a little cayenne ; 
mince parsley very finely and work up 
with the potatoes, adding eschalot also 
chopped small ; bind with yolk of egg ; 
roll into balls and fry with fresh butter 
over a clear fire. Meat shred finely, ba- 
con or ham may be added. 

1051. -POTATO 80UrFL:ft. 

Take any number of large potatoes, 
the less eyes and the firmer the skin the 
better. Clean them thoroughly and 
then bake them ; after which cut out a 
round piece, not quite so large as a half- 
crown, out of each potato, and remove 
as much of the inside as can be obtained 
without damage to the skin. Mash the 
potatoes with cream, adding a little but- 
ter, sprinkle over a little salt, and put to 
it half a pint of good milk ; give it all a 
boil ; take the white of three eggs, whip 
them until they froth, add them to the 
potatoes while they boil, and then make 
the potatoes into a paste ; return them 
through the orifice in the skin of the po- 
tato until each skin is full ; bake them, 
and serve. 

1052— POTATOES A LA MAITKE D'HOTEL. 

Boil the potatoes ; before they are 



quite done take them up, place them 
aside, and let them get cold ; cut them 
in slices of a moderate thickness ; place 
in a stewpan a lump of fresh butter, and 
a teaspoonful of flour ; let the butter 
boil, and add a teacupful of broth ; let 
it boil and add the potatoes, which you 
have covered with parsley, chopped fine, 
and seasoned with pepper and salt ; stew 
them five minutes, remove them from the 
fire ; beat up the yolk of one egg with 
a table-spoonful of cold water and a lit- 
tle lemon-juice. The sauce will set, then 
dish up the potatoes and serve. 

Or, Cold potatoes that have been 
boiled should be used for this purpose. 
Lay them in a frying pan with sufficient 
milk (or cream) to cover them, add a 
little butter, salt, and chopped parsley, 
and fry them until the milk thickens. 
They will be sufficiently cooked in a 
quarter of an hour, and make an excel- 
lent dish for breakfast. 

To Roast. — Clean thoroughly ; nick a 
small piece out of the skin, and roast in 
the oven of the range ; a little butter is 
sometimes rubbed over the skin to make 
them crisp. 

1053.— POTATO OMELETTE. 

May be made with a mashed potato or 
two ounces of potato-flour and four eggs 
and seasoned with pepper, salt, and a lit- 
tle nutmeg. It should be made thick, 
and, being rather substantial, a squeeze 
of lemon will improve it. Fry a light 
brown. 

1054— BISCUITS OF POTATOES AND POT A- 
TO FLOUK. (French.) 

Take fifteen fresh eggs, break the 
yolks into one pan and the whites into 
another. Beat the yolks with a pound 
of sugar pounded very fine, scrape the 
peel of a lemon with a lump of sugar, 
dry that, and pound it fine also ; then 
throw into it the yolks, and work the 



380 



THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



eggs and sugar till tliey are of a whitish 
color. Next, whip the whites well and 
mix them with the yolks. Now sift half 
a pound of flour of potatoes through a 
silk sieve, over the eggs and sugar. Have 
some paper cases ready, which lay on a 
plafond, with some paper underneath. 
Fill the cases, but not too full ; glaze the 
contents with some rather coarse sugar, 
and bake the whole in an oven mode- 
I'ately heated. 




Julienne Mill. 



1055.— GEEEN PEAS. 



A delicious vegetable, a grateful ac- 
cessory to many dishes of a more sub- 
stantial nature. Green peas should be 
sent to table green ; no dish looks less 
tempting than peas if they wear an au- 
tumnal aspect. Peas should also be 
young, and as short a time as possible 
should be suffered to elapse between the 
periods of shelling and boiling. . If it is a 
matter of consequence to send them to 
table in perfection, tliese rules must be 
strictly observed. They should be as 
near of a size as a discriminating eye can 
arrange them ; they should then be put 
in a cullender, and some cold water suf- 
fered to run through them in order to 
wash them ; then having the water in 
which they are to be boiled slightly salt- 
ed, and boiling rapidly, pour in the peas ; 
keep the saucepan uncovered, and keep 
them boiling swiftly until tender ; they 
will take about twenty minutes, barely 
so long, unless older than they should 



be ; drain completely, pour them into the 
tureen in which they are to be served, 
and in the centre put a slice of butter, 
and when it has melted stir round the 
peas gently, adding pepper and salt ; 
serve as quickly and as hot as possible. 

It is commonly a practice to boil mint 
with the peas ; this, however, is very re- 
pugnant to m my palates, and as it may 
easily be added if agreeable to the pal- 
ate, it should not be dressed with the 
peas, although it may accompany them 
to table for those who may desire the 
flavor. 

1056.— TO DRESS SPANISH ONIONS. 

Take off two skins, be particular in 
not cutting the stalk on the root of the 
onion too much away, if you do, when 
done it will drop to pieces. Take four 
large onions, put them in a stewpan suf- 
ficiently large, so that they may not 
touch each other, put in a small piece of 
lean York ham and a quarter of a pound 
of salt butter, cover them close, put them 
on a slow stove or oven, keeping them 
turned carefully until all sides are pro- 
perly done : they will take about two 
hours : then take them up and glaze 
them, thicken the gravy, and season 
with pepper and salt. 

105T.— SALSIFY AND SCOPvZANEKA. 

Blanch several heads until the skin 
will peel off; when you have done that, 
cut them all in equal lengths ; if to be 
done in batter^ dry them in bread-crumbs, 
if for sauce make them hot in a little 
veal stock, dish them, and pour a good 
white or brown sauce over them. 

1058.— ASPARAGUS. 

Great attention is necessary to boil as- 
paragus. It must be carefully washed 
and cleaned, the horny part must be cut 
away, leaving only enough to take it up 
with the fingers. After the white horny 



\ 



ASPARAGUS EGG-PLANT. 



381 



part has been well scraped, cut them all 
off at one length and tie them up in sepa- 
rate bundles ; lay them in boiling water 
with a little salt. Boil them briskly, 
and they are done enough when tender. 
Dip a round of toasted bread in the 
Mquor, and lay it in the dish ; then pour 
some melted butter over the toast, and 
lay the asparagus on the toast entirely 
round the dish. Serve with melted but- 
ter in a sauce-tureen. 

1059.— ASPARAGUS LOAVES. 

Boil three bunches of asparagus ; cut 
off the tops of two bunches when ten- 
der, leaving two inches of the white 
stalk on the rest, and keeping it warm ; 
stew the tops in a pint of new milk, 
with three table-spoonfuls of butter, 
rubbed in flour, the yolks of three eggs, 
nutmeg and mace ; when it boils put the 
mixture into loaves of rolls, with the 
crumb scooped out ; put on the tops of 
the rolls ; make holes in the tops, and 
stick in the remaining asparagus. 

1060.— ASPARAGUS FORCED. 

Scoop out the crumb of three or four 
French rolls, preserving the piece cut 
from the top, which will have to be fitted 
on to the part it was cut from ; put into 
a pan with some fresh butter, the rolls, 
and fry them brown, beat up with a pint 
of cream, the yolks of six eggs, flavor 
with some grated nutmeg and a little 
salt, put it into a stewpan, and over a 
slow fire ; let it gradually thicken, stir- 
ring it all the time. 

Have ready the tops of a bundle of 
asparagus, say a hundred, and having 
boiled them tender, put them into the 
cream and fill the rolls with the mix- 
ture, reserving a few tops to stick in 
each roll by way of garnish. 

1061.— ASPEEGE EN PETIT POIS, OR AS- 
PARAGUS PEAS. 

If the asparagus be properly dressed, 



it should taste like green peas. Take 
some young asparagus, which pick with 
great care ; then cut them into small 
equal pieces, avoiding to put in such 
parts as are hard or tough. Wash them 
in several waters, and throw them into 
boiling water, with a little salt. ^\'hen 
the asparagus are nearly done, drain 
them first through a sieve, and next 
wipe them quite dry with a towel. Then 
put them into a stewpan with a small bit 
of butter, a bunch of parsley and green 
onions, and toss them in the stewpan 
over the fire for ten minutes. Now add 
a little flour and a small lump of sugar, 
and moisten with boiling water. They 
must boil over a large fire. When well 
reduced, take out the parsley and green 
onions, and thicken with the yolks of 
two eggs beaten with a little cream and 
a little salt : remember that in this en- 
tremet sugar must predominate, and that 
there is to be no sauce. Asparagus are 
always to be dressed in this manner 
when to be served in the second course ; 
but for first course dishes, throw them 
into some good sauce tournee, well re- 
duced. Boil them a few times over a 
large fire, then powder a little sugar, and 
make a thickening of one egg. The 
sauce must be made thick, on account of 
the asparagus always 3-ielding a certain 
quantity of water, which will thin the 
sauce. 

1062.— EGG PLANT. 

Cut the egg plant in slices half 
an inch thick, and let it lie for several 
hours in salted water, to remove the bit- 
ter taste. To fry it put the slices in the 
frying-pan with a small quantity of bat- 
tel", and turn them when one side is done. 
Be sure that they are thoroughl}' cooked. 
Stuffed egg plant is sometimes preferred 
to fried. Peel the plant whole, cut it in 
two, and let it lies in salted water. Then 
scoop out the inside of the plant, chop it 
up fine, mixing crumbs of bread, salt and 



382 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



butter with it ; fry it, return it to the 
hollow egg plant, join the cut pieces to- 
gether, and let them bake awhile in an 
oven. The best way of cooking is to 
slice them, dip the slices into egg and 
bread-crumbs, and fry very brown in 
butter or lard. 

1063. -SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT. 

Scrape the salsify, cut it in long slips 
and parboil it, then chop it up fine and 
fry it with egg batter. 

It is sometimes served with the roots 
Avhole, having been first thoroughly boil- 
ed and then fried in egg batter. 

1064.— CAULIFLOWER DRESSED LIKE 
MACCARONI. 

Boil a cauliflower in milk and water, 
with a little butter, half an hour, skim- 
ming well; when tender, drain, and di- 
vide it small ; put a quarter of a pound 
of butter, half as much grated cheese, 
half a gill of milk, in a pan to boil up, 
and put in the sprigs of cauliflower — 
stew five minutes ; then put it into a 
dish, grate over it as much more cheese, 
and brown it with a shovel. 

To dress Cauliflowers, separate the 
green part, and cut the flower close to 
the bottom from the stalk ; let it soak 
an hour in clear cold water, and then lay 
it in boiling milk and water, or water 
alone, observing to skim it well. When 
the flower or stalk feels tender, it is done 
enough, and should be instantly taken 
up. Drain it for a minute, and serve it 
up in a dish by itself, with plain melted 
butter in a sauce-tureen. 

1065— SPINACH. 

Pick it clean, and wash it in five or 
six waters. Drain it, and put it in boil- 
ing water. Ten minutes is generally suf- 
ficient time to boil spinach. Be careful 
to remove the scum. "When it is quite 
tender take it up, and drain and squeeze 
it well. Chop it fine, and put it into a 



saucepan with a piece of butter and a 
little pepper and salt. Set it on hot 
coals, and let it stew five minutes, stir- 
ring it all the time. 

1066.— TURNIPS. 

White turnips require about as much 
boiling as potatoes. When tender, take 
them up, peel and mash them — season 
them with a little salt and butter. Yel- 
low turnips require about two hours 
boiling — if very large, split them in two. 
The tops of white turnips make a good 
salad. 

1067.- BEETS. 

Beets should not be cut or scraped be- 
fore they are boiled, or the juice will run 
out, and make them insipid. In summer 
they will boil in an hour — in winter, it 
takes three hours to boil them tender. 
The tops in summer are good boiled for 
greens. Boiled beets cut in slices, and 
put in cold spiced venegar for several 
days, are very nice. 

1068.— PARSNIPS AND CARROTS. 

Wash them, and split them in two — 
lay them in a stewpan, with the flat side 
down, turn on boiling water enough to 
cover them — boil them till tender, then 
take them up, and take off" the skin, and 
butter them. Many cooks boil them 
whole, but it is not a good plan, as the 
outside gets done too much, befoi'e the 
inside is cooked sufficiently. Cold boil- 
ed parsnips are good, cut in- slices and 
fried brown. 

1069.— SEA-KALE 

Requires to be very well done ; there is 
little occasion to fear doing it too much ; 
tie in bundles after washing and trim- 
ming, boil it in equal parts of milk and 
water, and serve it with melted butter. 

It may be laid on toast or not, accord- 
ing to taste. 



VEGETABLES. 



383 



After being well boiled it must be 
thoroughly drained before laying upon 
the toast ; five-and-twenty minutes will 
be found sufficient to boil it. Or, after 
being drained, it can be put in a stewpan 
and stewed in a rich gravy. 

lOTO.— TO STEW CELERY. 

Wash the heads, and strip off their 
outer leaves ; either halve or leave them 
whole, according to their size, and cut 
them into length of four inches. Put 
into a stewpan with a cup of broth or 
weak white gravy ; stew till tender ; 
then add two spoonfuls of cream, a little 
flour and butter, seasoned with pepper, 
salt, nutmeg, and a little pounded white 
sugar ; and simmer all together. 

Or : — Parboil it, cut it into quarters, 
fry it, and serve it on a napkin, or with 
beef gravy. 

Celery is a great improvement to all 
soups and gravies, and much used as a 
white sauce, either alone or with oys- 
ters; 

1071.— SAUER KRAUT, 

Or Sour-Kraut, is a German prepara- 
tion of cabbage, fermented in laj-ers, be- 
tween which salt is laid, and the whole 
pressed closely down with weights for a 
few days, at the end of which it becomes 
acid, and the greater part of the juice is 
drawn off. 

In preparing it, the outward leaves 
and the stalk are removed, the latter 
being sliced, and the -tf hole cabbage cut 
into small pieces, which are pressed 
heavily down, and placed in barrels in a 
warm cellar until the fermentation is 
over: when that is complete, put the 
kraut into a cool place, and it will re- 
main good for years. Some people think 
it improved by a mixture among the 
laj'ers of caraway, whole pepper, and 
juniper-berries, or to have the barrels 
smoked with the latter. 

It is extensively used throughout the 



northern parts of Europe, as a pleasant 
vegetable, particularly with salted meats 
and sausages ; and is considered so ex- 
cellent an antiscorbutic that it is largely 
employed in our navy. It requires 
nothing but care in the making ; and, 
when properly prepare i, may be served 
at any gentleman's table. Boil it for 
two hours, and skim the water j or 
change the water for gravy, and stew it. 

1072.— TO SERVE SOUR-KRAUT. 

Take out as much sour-kraut as you 
wish from the cask, and soak it for at 
least two hours in cold water, then take 
it into a colander to drain ; put it into 
a large stewpan or dinner-pot, put on it 
a piece of corned pork or bacon, and put 
hot water over nearly to cover it ; cover 
the pot and set it over a moderate fire 
for an hour or more until the pork is 
done. Serve with the meat on it. Or 
cut the bacon or pork in slices, strew 
pepper over them ; lay the sour-kraut 
on, put hot water nearly to cover it, 
cover the pot close and set it over a 
moderate fire for an hour and a half. 
Or it may be boiled with water, and fried 
sausages put over it and served ; or the 
sausages may be boiled with it, and the 
skins taken off, before serving. 

1078.— ARTICHOKES. 

Cut away the outside leaves and make 
the stalk as even as possible, put them 
into boiling water with some salt ; if they 
nre very young they will be tender in 
half an hour, if rather old they will re- 
quire an hour before they are thoroughly 
tender; drain and trim the points of the 
leaves, sei've with melted butter. 

They are better for being kept two or 
three days. 

The bottoms are sometimes added to 
ragouts or meat pies. 

If dried you must soak them well for 
some time, then stew them in some good 



384 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



second stock until tender ; take up the 
artichokes and reduce the stock, add to 
it a little brown sauce seasoned with 
pepper, salt, and sugar, a few green peas 
in the middle of each or alternately, some 
scooped turnips boiled, and put into each ; 
glaze the artichokes before you add 
those to them ; sauce in the dish 

For Salad. — The artichokes should be 
very young, the choke having scarcely 
formed, clean them and let them soak 
thoroughly, drain them, take off the 
stalks close and even, and send them to 
table with the vegetables to form the 
salad. This is a favorite mode in Paris 
of dressing them. 

10T4.— JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES. 

Pare them after being well washed, 
very smooth and of some kind of shape, 
boil them in milk and water, pay great 
attention to them, as, if not taken up the 
minute they are soft, they will break ; they 
are served up with various kinds of 
sauces, white and brown, or fried in but- 
ter, and dished upon a napkin with fried 
parsley. 

1075.— FRENCH BEANS. 

When very young the ends and stalks 
only should be removed, and as they are 
done thrown into cold spring water; 
when to be dressed put them in boiling 
water which has been salted with a 
small quantity of common salt; in a 
quarter of an hour they will be done ; the 
criterion is when they become tender ; 
the saucepan should be left uncovered, 
there should not be too much water, and 
they should be kept boihng rapidly. 

^V!lcn they are at their full growth, 
the ends and strings should be taken off 
and the bean divided lengthways and 
across, or according to the present fashion 
slit diagonally or aslant. 

A small piece of soda, a little larger 
than a good-sized pea, if put into the 



boiling water with the beans, or with any 
vegetables, will preserve that beautiful 
green which it is so desirable for them 
to possess when placed upon the table. 

1076.— FRENCH BEANS A LA MAtTRE 
D'H6TEL. 

Prepare your beans as for boiling ; put 
into a stewpan a piece of butter, shred 
parsley, and green onions ; when the but- 
ter is melted add the French beans, turn 
them a few times over the fii'e, shake in 
some flour, and moisten with a little good 
stock wel seasoned ; boil till the sauce is 
consumed, then put in yolks of three 
eggs, beat up with some milk, and add a 
little vinegar. Cullis of veal gravy may 
be used instead of the eggs. 

They may be fricasseed with a teacup- 
ful of gravy, and two spoonfuls of cream 
thickened with butter and flour. 

1077.— BAKED BEANS. 

Soak a quart of dried beans over night. 
in cold water ; drain ofi" the water in the 
morning and stew for half an hour in a 
little water, put them in a deep dish, 
with one pound of salt pork, cut the rind 
in strips, and place in the centre of the 
dish. The pork should be sunk a little 
below the surface of the beans. Bake 
for three hours and a half. A lump of 
saleratus should be thrown in while the 
beans are boihng, and a pint of water be 
added, when they are put into the bake- 
pan. « 

1078.- LIMA BEANS 

Should be gathered young. Shell 
them, lay them m a pan of cold water, 
and then boil them about two hours, till 
they are quite soft, Diain them well, 
and add to them some butter. 

1079.— SUCCOTASH 

Is made by boiling 3'oung lima beans 
with green corn cut from the cob. A 



VEGETABLES. 



385 



slice of fat pork may be boiled with it, 
ard the mixture must have a lump of 
butter stirred in before serving. The 
beans should be boiled before the corn is 
added, as they take longer to cook. 

lOSO.— PONE OF SWEET POTATO. 

To three pounds of sweet potatoes 
grated, add a pound of butter and a pound 
of sugar, with six eggs, a tea-cup of sour 
cream or buttermilk, and a teaspoonful 
of soda. Bake in a buttered dish, and 
serve hot. 

1081.-SQUASHES OE CTMBELINS. 

Cut up the squashes in pieces of an 
inch thick, having fir.-^t pared the squash ; 
if old, extract the seeds and boil the 
pieces until they break, mash them with 
a spoon, boil them a little longer, and 
when they are done, squeeze them 
thi-ough a colander. Mix them with a 
little salt and a small quantity of butter. 

1082.— WINTER SQUASH. 

Winter squashes are stewed in the 
same manner as others, but they require 
to remain over the fire a little longer. 

If kept in a dry place, they will remain 
good all winter ; but if they are once 
frozen, they lose their flavor, and are apt 
to decay. 

They are richer and firmer than the 
summer kind. After paring a winter 
squash, cut it in pieces, and, having 
taken out the seeds, boil it till it is toler- 
fibly soft in a small quantity of water. 
When you think it sufiiciently done, 
press out all the water, mash the squash, 
and add a httle butter, salt, and, if you 
fancy it, pepper. 

1083.— SWEET CORN. 

Corn is much sweeter to be boiled on 
the cob. Put a little salt into the water, 
and put in the com when it is cold. It 



requires boihng from fifteen to thirty 
minutes, according to its age. 

1084.- GREEN CORN PUDDING. 
Twelve ears of green corn, grated, a 
quart of milk, four ounces butter, the 
.came of sugar, four eggs beaten fight. 
Bake in a buttered dish, and eat with 
butter and sugar .'^auce. The corn may 
be previously boiled, when the pudding 
will bake more quickly. 

10S5.— GREEN CORN OMELET. 

Grate the corn from twelve ears of com 
boiled, beat up five eggs, stir them with 
the corn, season with pepper and salt, 
and fry the mixture brown, browning 
the top with a hot shovel. If fried in 
small cakes, with a little flour and milk 
stirred in to form a batter, this is very 
nice. 

10S6.— GREEN CORN FRITTERS. 

Six ears of boiled corn, grated, two 
eggs, a little milk, and just enough flour 
to mix it. Drop a spoonful of the batter 
into a frying-pan, and fry in butter. 

1087.— ONIONS. 
It is a good plan to boil onions in milk 
and water, it diminishes the strong taste 
of that vegetable. It is an excellent way 
of serving up onions, to chop them after 
they are boiled, and put them in a 
stew-pan, with a little milk, butter, salt, 
and pepper, and let them stew about fif- 
teen minutes. This gives them a fine 
flavor, and they can be served up very 
hot. 

1088.— TOMATOES, 
If very ripe, will skin easily ; if not, 
pour scalding water on them, and let them 
remain in it four or five minutes. Peel 
and put them into a stew-pan, with a 
tablespoonful of water, if not very juicy ; 
if so, no water will be required. Put in 
a little salt, and stew them for half an 



386 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



hour ; then turn them into a deep dish 
with buttered toast. Another way of 
cooking them, which is considered very 
nice by epicures, is to put them m a 
deep dish, with fine bread crumbs, 
crackers pounded fine, a layer of each al- 
ternately ; put small bits of butter ; a 
little salt and pepper on each layer — 
some cooks add a little nutmeg and sugar. 
Have a layer of bread crumbs on the top. 
Bake it three-quarters of an hour. 

10S9.— SCOLLOPED TOMATOES. 

Scald ripe tomatoes and peel them; 
put them in a dish with bread crumbs, 
layer over layer, seasoning with salt and 
red pepper. Have the bread crumbs on 
the top, and bake three hours. 

1090.— TOMATOES, TO STUFF. 

'I'ake some fine tomatoes and scoop 
the inside out, which should be set aside 
until required. Chop or mince fine some 
beef, mutton, or other fresh under-done 
meat, mix with a little pepper, salt, and 
a little sweet herbs ; or make a forcemeat, 
and mix with the scoopings of the 
tomatoes ; form into a good consistence, 
apd stufl'thc inside of the vegetable with 
the mixture. Set the prepared vegetables 
in a dish with a little lard in a slow 
oven, and bake until tender ; then serve 
with the liquor that exudes during the 
process ; but if not brown enough, color 
by means of a salamander held over the 
top of each. 

A good rich beef gravy poured over all, 
improves the flavor very much. This is 
the best way to dress these vegetables, 
and serves also to make cold meat more 
palatable, in addition to forming a pretty 
and economical side dish. 

1091.— GUMBO 

Two quarts fresh ochras, the same of 
ripe tomatoes scalded and peeled; put 
them in a pan to melt with butter, pep- 



per and salt ; strain through the colan- 
der, and dish the jelly, to eat with 
toast. 

1092.— HOPPING JOHN (A CAROLINA DISH.') 

This is made by boiling a kind of small 
bean, called cowpeas at the South, with 
an equal quantity of rice, and sending 
them mixed and hot to the table. 

1093.— SPLIT-PEAS PTTDDING. 

Take any quantity, say one pint, of 
yellow split peas ; allow them to remain 
in water the whole night before you wish 
to use them ; after which take them out 
and put them into a cloth so loose as to 
allow the peas to swell ; boil them for 
four hours, or until they are quite tender, 
then rub them through a colander, so as 
to render them perfectly smooth ; add to 
the pulp a lump of butter and some salt. 
After .being w ell mixed put the peas again 
into a cloth, tie tightly, and boil for about 
half an hour. Pour over it melted but- 
ter. 

A richer pudding may be made if two 
well-beaten eggs are added along with 
the butter. It is served with boiled 
pork. 

1094.— STEWED BEANS. 

Boil them in water in which a lump of 
butter has been placed, preserve them as 
white as you can, chop a few sweet herbs 
with some par.'^ley very fine, stew them in 
a pint of the water in which the leaves 
have been boiled, to which a quarter of 
a pint of cream has been added ; stew until 
quite tender, then add the beans, stew 
five minutes, thicken with butter and 
flour. 

1095.— BEANS, PUREE OP, WHITE. 
Chop some onions and fry them lightly 
in a little butter and flour, and moisten 
with a teaspoonful of broth ; let the 
onions be done ; boil the beans in this 
for half an hour, season them well, use 



VEGETABLES. 



387 



brown pepper, and strain them through 
a tammy ; reduce the puree over a brisk 
fire, take off the white scum, and before 
you serve refine it with a bit of fresh but- 
ter and two spoonfuls of thick cream, 
garnish it with fried crust of bread ; this 
may be made brown by frying the onions 
brown. 

1096— TO PRESERVE PEAS FOR WINTER 

USE.* 

Shell, scald, and dry them : put them 
on tins or earthen dishes, in a cool oven, 
once or twice, to harden. Keep them in 
paper bags hung up in the kitchei\. 
When they are to be used, let them lie 
an hour in water ; then set them on with 
cold water and a bit of butter, and boil 
them till ready. Put a sprig of dried 
mint to boil with them. 

Ap2Jert''s method. — Have the peas 
gathered when ripe, for if too young they 
will be watery and not fit to keep. The 
peas, when shelled, should be put into 
strong jars or open-mouthed bottles, and 
shaken, so as to make them sit closely to- 
gether. This done, the jars must be very 
tightly corked and tied down. The jars 
are then placed upright in a bain-marie, or 
any iron pot large enough to contain them, 
with hay placed between each, to prevent 
collision and breakage ; the pot is filled 
with cold water up to the neck of the 
jars, placed upon the fire, and allowed to 
boil for an hour and a half if in cool 
moist weather, but for two hours if it be 
hot and dry. The jars should not be 
taken out of the pot until the water be- 
comes cold. 

French beans and asparagus may be 
preserved in the same manner; they 
maintain their color, but lose much of 
their flavor, and require a little sugar 
to improve it. 

a09T.— HARICOT ROOTS. 
Pare three turnips, and scrape two or 

* As practised in the kitchen of the Emperor of 
Bossia. 



three good-colored carrots, about two 
dozen button onions, a head of celery ; 
cut out with a scoop-cutter sufiicient car- 
rots and turnips to pair the button 
onions ; la\' them for a few minutes in 
boiling water, keep all your roots in wa- 
ter until all is done, cut your celery 
to correspond as to size with the other 
roots ; when done blanch them, then 
strain them off, return them into the 
stewpan, and put to them some good 
brown stock ; boil them until reduced to 
nearly a glaze, then add some brown 
sauce to them, sugar, pepper, and salt, do 
not stir with a spoon to mash the roots, 
which should be quite perfect. 

1098.— WHITE HARICOT BEANS.— (Spanish 
Receipt.) 

Take a pint of beans, pour a quart of 
boiling water upon them anrl let them re- 
main in soak until the next day •. cut a 
lettuce in four pieces and put it with 
the beans in some fresh hot water, throw 
in a small fagot of parsley, and a slice 
of ham, boil them until the whole are 
tender. 

Chop up some onions, with a clove of 
garlic, fry them and then put them into 
a stewpan, put the beans to them with a 
well beaten egg and some spice, heat them 
and send them to table. 

1099.— BEET-ROOTS. 

Cut in equal-sized slices some beet 
root, boiled or baked, of a good color, 
make it hot between two plates in the 
oven, dish it as you would cut'ets, round ; 
make a good piquant sauce, boil some 
button onions white and tender, throw 
them in the middle of the dish with the 
sauce ; or, boil simply, and serve the 
slices with melted butter. 

1100.— FRENCH WAT OF DRESSING COLD 
BEET-ROOT. 

Take your cold beet-root — chop it very 
small and put it in a saucepan to heat, 
with a little cream ; immediately before 



388 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



serving, put in a spoonful of vinegar and 
a little brown sugar ; serve hot. 

1101.— BROCCOLI AND BUTTERED EGGS. 
Keep a handsome bunch for the middle, 
and have eight pieces to go round ; toast 
a piece of bread to fit the inner part of 
the dish or plate : boil the broccoli. In 
the mean time have ready six (or more) 
eggs beaten, put for six a quarter of a 
pound of fine butter into a saucepan, 
■^vith a little salt, stir it over the fire, and 
as it becomes warm add the eggs, and 
sliake the saucepan till the mixture is 
thick enough ; pour it on the hot toast, 
and lay the broccoli as before directed. 
This receipt is a very good one, it is oc- 
casionally varied, but without improve- 
ment, the dish is however nearly obsolete. 

1102.— CABBAGE— TO BOIL. 

Nick your cabbage in quarters at the 
stalk, wash it thoroughly clean, put it 
into boiling spring water with a handful 
of salt and a small piece of soda, boil it 
fast, when done strain it in a colander, 
press it gently, cut it in halves and serve. 
Savoys and greens may be boiled in the 
same manner, they should always be 
boiled by themselves. Should the cab- 
bage be left, it may be chopped, put into 
a saucepan with a lump of butter, and 
pepper, and salt, and made hot and sent 
to table. 

Small, close cabbages laid on a stone floor, 
before the frost sets in, will blanch and be 
very fine, after man}' weeks' keeping. 

1103.-STEWED WATER-CRESS. 
The following receipt may be new, and 
will be found an agreeable and wholesome 
dish : — Lay the cress in strong salt and 
water, to clear it from insects. Pick and 
wash nicely, and stew in water for about 
ten minutes ; drain and chop, season with 
pepper and salt, add a little butter, and 
return it to the stewpan until well heated. 
Add a little vinegar first before serving ; 



put around it sippets of toast or fried 
bread. — The above made thin, as a sub- 
stitute for parsley and butter, will be 
found an excellent covering for a boiled 
fowl. There should be more of the cress 
considerably than of the parsley, as the 
flavor is much milder. 

1104.— MUSHROOMS. 

The mushrooms proper to be used in 
cookery grow in the open pasture land, 
for those that grow near or under trees, 
are poisonous. The eatable mushrooms 
first appear very small, and of a round 
form, on a little stalk. They grow very 
rapidly, and the upper part and stalk are 
white. As they increase in size, the 
under part gradually opens, and shows a 
fringed fur of a very fine salmon color, 
which continues more or less till the 
mushroom has gained some size, and 
then turns to a dark brown. These marks 
should be attended to, and likewise whe- 
ther the skin can be easily parted from 
the edge, and middle, and whether they 
have a pleasant smell. Those which are 
poisonous have a yellow skin, and the 
under part has not the clear flesh color 
of the real mushroom ; besides which, 
they smell rank and disagreeable, and the 
fur is white or yellow. 

In Stewing^ if you wish to have the 
full taste of the mushroom only, after 
washing, trimming, and peeling them, 
put them into a stewpan with a little salt 
and no water. Set them on coals, and 
stew them slowly till tender, adding 
nothing to them but a little butter rolled 
in flour, or else a little cream. Be sure 
to keep the pan well covered. 

1105.— BROILED MUSHROOMS. 

Pare some large open mushrooms, 
leaving the stalks on, paring them to a 
point ; wash them well, turn them on the 
back of a drying sieve to drain. Put 
into a stewpan two ounces of butter, some 



VEGETABLES. 



389 



chopped parsley, and shalots, fry them 
for a minute on the fire ; when melted 
place your mushroom stalks upwards on 
a saute pan, then pour the butter and 
parsley over all the mushrooms ; pepper 
and salt them well with black pepper, put 
them in the oven to broil; when done 
put a little good stock to them, give them 
a boil, and dish them, pour the liquor 
over them, add more gravy, but let it be 
put in hot ; an hour and a quarter before 
it is done add four table-spoonfuls of red 
wine and the liver ; serve very hot. 

1106— LETTUCES AND ENDIVES 
Are better, I think, only cut into pieces 
or into quarters, and dished neatly round ; 
but they must be done in some good 
stock and not put into the thick sauce, 
but when you take them out after being 
done, you will press and form them, then 
boil down their liquor to a glaze, which 
will, when added to your already thick 
sauce, give the desired flavor ; glaze the 
quarters before dishing them, pour the 
sauce under and round. 

1107.— TUENIPS, WHOLE. 
Pare several large turnips, scoop them 
out with an iron cutter for the purpose, 
throw them in water as you cut them, 
when done blanch them, then strain them 
off, if for white add bechamel to them ; 
if for brown, brown sauce ; season as be- 
fore. 

1108.— PUEfiE OF TURNIPS. 
Pare and cut up several turnips into 
slices, put them on to boil in milk and water 
until tender, strain them on the back of 
a sieve, throw away the liquor, and rub 
through the turnips ; when done put 
them into a stewpan with a piece of but- 
ter, a spoonful of flour, a gill of cream, 
a little sugar, salt, and cayenne pepper. 

1109.— TEUFFLES. 

The truffle, like the mushroom, is a 
25 



species of fungus common in France and 
Italy. It grows about eight or ten inches 
below the surface of the ground. As it 
imparts a most delicious flavor, it is much 
used in cooking. Being dug out of the 
earth, it requires a great deal of washing 
and brushing before it can be applied to 
culinary purposes. When washed, the 
water should be warm and changed fre- 
quently ; it loses much of its flavor 
when dried, 

Tmffles tcith Champagne. — Take ten 
or twelve well-cleaned trufiies, put them 
into a stewpan on rashers of bacon, add 
a bay leaf, a seasoned bouquet, a little 
grated bacon, some slices of ham, some 
stock, and a bottle of champagne ; cover 
them with a piece of buttered paper, put 
on the lid, and set the stewpan in hot 
ashes, put fire on the top, and let them 
stew for an hour ; when done drain them 
on a clean cloth, and serve on a folded 
napkin. 

To I'eep them. — After opening a fresh 
bottle and not requiring them all, return 
them into the bottle, filling up the bottle 
with some boiled sherry, cork them down 
until wanted again. 

1110 .— MOEELS. 
The morel is a kind of mushroom, and 
for a ragout or garnish they are prepared 
as follows : — take the largest morels, take 
oS" their stalks and split them in two or 
three pieces, wash and put them into aba- 
sin of warm water to free them from the 
sand and earth, then blanch and drain 
and put them into a stewpan with a piece 
of butter and lemon juice, give them a 
turn and moi«ten with white or brown 
sauce. They should be dried slowly, put 
in paper bags, and kept in a dry place. 

nil.— SIDNEY SMITH'S EECEIPT FOE 
SALAD. 

Two large potatoes, passed through 

kitchen sieve. 
Unwonted softness to the salad give, 



390 



THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



Of ardent mustard add a single spoon — 
Distrust the condiment which bites so 

soon : 
But deem it not, thou man of herbs, a 

fault 
To add a double quantity of salt ; 
Three times the spoon with oil of Lucca 

crown, 
And once with vinegar, procured from 

town. 
True flavor needs it, and your poet begs 
The pounded yellow of two well-boiled 

eggs. 
Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl, 
And, scarce suspected, animate the whole; 
And. lastly, on the flavored compound 

toss 
A magic teaspoon of anchovy sauce. 
Then, though green turtle fail, though 

venison's tough. 
And ham and turkeys are not boiled 

enough, 
Serenely full the Epicure may say, — 
Fate cannot harm me — I have dined to- 
day ! 

1112.- CHICKEN SALAD. 

Mince the meat of two cooked fowls, 
with a little ham or tongue ; cut up fine 
a nice lettuce head ; put it in a dish, with 
the chicken in the centre ; for the dress- 
ing, take the yolks of four eggs beaten, 
two teaspoonfuls of mixed mustard, two 
table-spoonfuls of vinegar, and four of oil, 
half a teaspoonful of Cayenne pepper: 
boil the mixture, and when cold pour it 
over the chicken, and ornament it with 
sliced white of egg and of beets. 

1113.— SALAD DRESSING FOR LETTUCE. 
Two hard-boiled eggs, the yolks 
mashed with four teaspoonfuls of sweet 
oil, a saltspoon of salt,- and a teaspoonful 
of mustard, with two table-spoonfuls of 
vinegar* Add the lettuce cut up fine, 
and mince the white of egg to throw 
over it. 



1114.— SALADS. 

Coss-lettuce and blanched endive make 
the best salad, the green leaves being 
stripped oflT, and leaving nothing but the 
close, white hearts, which, after being 
washed and placed for an hour or two in 
cold water, should be wiped quite dj-y. 
To this should be added a head or two 
of celery, a couple of anchovies (which 
are far preferable to the essence), and 
several chives, or young onions, all cut 
small, while the lettuces should be di- 
vided lengthwise into quarters, and cut 
into rather large pieces. 

TJie mixture or dressing. — For four 
persons bruise only the yolk of one hard- 
boiled egg (leaving out altogether the 
white), with some salt, and make it into 
a paste with two large teaspoonfuls of 
moatarde demaille; or, if obliged to use 
common mustard, add to it a drop or 
two of asafoetida, which will impart to 
it a slight flavor of garlic. Then add oil 
and vinegar in the following proportions, 
without using so much as to make the 
sauc« thin, and taking care to have the 
finest Provence or Lucca oil, and the 
very strongest species of real French 
vinegar : namely, to every one spoonful 
of vinegar add tioo of oil ; one spoonful 
of the vinegar being impregnated with 
chilis, which will add warmth to the 
salad, much more agreeably than cay- 
enne. A little tarragon may be an 
improvement, and a spoonful of Quihi or 
walnut ketchup is not objectionable ; but 
mushroom ketchup will destroy the pun- 
gency of flavor, and both may be left out 
without inconvenience. 

When this is done, mix the sauce well, 
but lightly, with the salad, to which a 
few slices of boiled beet-root, and the 
white of the egg sliced, will be a pretty 
addition. 

1 he excellence of a salad consists in 
the vegetables being young and fresh, and 
they should be prepared only a short 



SALADS. 



591 



time before they are wanted ; the salad 
mixture being either poured into the bot- 
tom of the bowl or sent up in a sauce- 
tureen, and not stirred up with the vege- 
tables until they are served. 

In summer salads the mixture must 
not be poured upon the lettuce or vege- 
tables used in the salad, but be left at 
the bottom, to be stirred up when want- 
ed, as thus preserving the crispness of 
the lettuce. 

In winter salads, however, the reverse 
of this proceeding must be adopted, as 
thus : the salad of endive, celery, beet, 
and other roots being cut ready for dress- 
ing, then pour the mixture upon the in- 
gredients, and stir them well up, so that 
every portion may receive its benefit. 

In doing this, it should likewise be re- 
collected that the spoon and fork should 
always be of wood, and of sufficient size 
to stir up the vegetables in large quan- 
tities.* 

1115.~CHICKEN SALAD. (English.) 

JPull the meat off the bones, put it 
into a small pan with a shalot cut in thin 
slices, a few sprigs of parsley, and a ta- 
ble-spoonful each of oil and tarragon 
vinegar ; season the chicken well with 
pepper and salt ; let it soak for about 
three hours. Boil three eggs hard, cut 
them in four pieces lengthways ; chop 
two anchovies, six olives, and a dessert- 
spoonful of capers ; take three lettuces, 
reserve the small hearts to garnish with, 
cutting them in four, shred fine the 
other leaves, that are white, and cut 
roughly some small salad ; put a layer of 
salad on the dish, then the chicken, sprin- 
kle the chopped anchovy, &c., then more 
salad and chicken until you have used 
up the whole of your materials ; then 

* As a substUute for egg in salad, mb down a 
dessert-spoonful of a mashed potato with mustard 
and salt, and some cream or thick melted butter, 
which answers for oil when that is not at hand ; 
then add the vinegar. 



mask it with a thick Mayonnaise sauce : 
garnish it round the bottom with the 
lettuce-hearts and eggs alternately. This 
salad is much improved if the dish can 
be placed on pounded ice whilst it is 
being prepared. 

The remains oiveal and icMte poultry, 
when minced and left cold, instead of 
being fricasseed, will thus be found an 
excellent addition to the dinner of a 
summer's day, with added slices of cu- 
cumber. 

1116.— CHICKEN SALAD. 

Boil a chicken that weighs not more 
than a pound and a half. When very 
tender, take it up, cut it in small strips, 
and make the following sauce, and turn 
over it — ^boil four eggs three minutes — 
then take them out of the shells, mash 
and mix them with a couple of table- 
spoonfuls of olive-oil, or melted butter, 
two-thirds of a tumbler of vinegar, a tea- 
spoonful of mixed mustard, a teaspoon- 
ful of salt, a little pepper, and essence of 
celery, if you have it — if not, it can be 
dispensed with. In making chicken salad, 
the dressing should not be put on till a 
few minutes before the salad is sent in ; 
as by lying in it, the chicken and celerv 
will become hard. 

HIT.— SALAD OP FOWL. 

Proceed as for that of game, so far as 
the eggs and the salad are concerned ; 
then have a chicken, which has been pre- 
viously plain roasted, or in vegetables, 
and cut it into ten neat pieces, put it 
into a basin, season with a teaspoonful 
of salt, quarter ditto of pepper, two table- 
spoonfuls of oil, one of vinegar, one on- 
ion sliced, and a few sprigs of chopped 
parsley ; mix them well, and let them 
remain for a few hours, if time will per- 
mit. Take the pieces of chickeh, and 
place in a dish with salad, as directed for 
grouse, with the sauce, &c., and serve. 



392 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



Nothing is better for ball-suppers thaji 
these kind of dishes ; they may be made 
of all kinds of solid fish, and the sauce 
is excellent ; any kind of cold meat, cut 
in slices, dressed round with the sauce 
over, may be served for supper or lunch- 
eon. It may be served with the same 
sauce or dressing as for lobster salad ; 
or make the following one, which differs 
a little : — Put into a middle-sized, round- 
bottomed basin, the yolk of two eggs, 
half a spoonful of salt, quarter of one of 
pepper, half a one of sugar, ditto of fine 
chopped onions, ditto of parsley, tarra- 
gon, or chervil, stir with the right hand 
with a wooden spoon, while you pour 
some oil out of the bottle by keeping 
your thumb on its mouth, so that it runs 
out very slowly ; when a few spoonfuls 
are in it, it will become quite stiff"; pour 
also, by degrees, a few spoonfuls of vine- 
gar, and so on until you have made 
enough for your salad ; try if the flavor 
is good and rehshing ; as the quality of 
these two last ingredients vary so much, 
I must leave it to your palate and correct 
judgment. If you should fail at first, 
try again until you succeed, and I am 
certain you will be delighted with the 
result; it ought to be made in a cold 
place, particularly in summer. Great 
taste should be observed in the decora- 
tion of the border, for which you should 
see the " Gastronomic Regenerator." 

1118.— FISH SALADS. 
All fish salads are made from the re- 
mains of fish from a previous dinner, es- 
pecially tui'bot and salmon ; but for fil- 
lets of soles they must be dressed thus : 
— When filleted, melt an ounce of butter 
in a sautcpan, lay the fillets in, season 
with pepper and salt, and the juice of 
half a lemon ; saut6 them on a slow fire 
until done, which may be from four to 
five minutes, and put by to get cold ; cut 
in middle-sized pieces and use as lob- 
ster. 



1119.— MAYONNAISE. 
[The following receipt is contributed 
to •' The Practical Housekeeper " by Mr. 
Delmonico, proprietor of the well-known 
establishments at the Irving House and 
at the corner of Beaver and William 
streets, New York.] 

In a middle-sized dish placed in crack- 
ed ice, put the yolks of two fresh eggs, 
a little salt, some white pepper, and some 
vinegar a I'estragon. Stir this mixture 
briskly with a wooden spoon, and as soon 
as it begins to thicken, mix in gradual- 
ly a table-spoonful of oil and a little 
vinegar, taking care to beat the sauce 
against the sides of the dish. On this 
repeated beating depends the whiteness 
of the sauce Maj^onnaise. In propor- 
tion to the bulk add oil and vinegar 
together, putting in but little at a time. 
As it comes nearer perfection it grows 
thick and strong-bodied. When finished 
add a squeeze of citron and some drops 
of water. This sauce is delicious for 
chicken salad — mayonnaise de volaille — 
and serves for all kinds of fish and poul- 
try. 

1120.— LOBSTER SALAD. 

Take out the meat of the claws and 
body, cutting it into small pieces, and 
mixing it with the lettuce or endive ; but 
previously separate the soft part of the 
fish adhering to the shell, with the red 
spawn of the hen-lobster, and blend 
them with the materials prepared for the 
dressing. It will perhaps require a little 
more pungency of flavor, which can be 
imparted by a small additional quantity 
of chili or tarragon vinegar. 

Crab^ or shrimps, may be used in the 
same manner ; and a great improvement 
in either will be found by throwing in a 
portion of savory calf's-foot jelly, di- 
vided into pieces. 

Although shell-Jish are very decidedly 
the best mixture to be put into this 
salad, yet any sort of firm fish, which 



PICKLES. 



393 



have been dressed, and partly left cold, 
may also be prepared in a similar way. 



PICKLES AND STOKE-EOOM 

SAUCES. 



Although meat, when cured and dried, 
is called " pickled," yet in that operation 
salt alone is employed as brine, while in 
the pickling of vegetables, of which we 
are about to treat, the means chiefly used 
is vinegar. 

In the making of all sorts of pickles, 
salads, and sauces, in which vinegar is 
employed, it is of much importance to 
have it of the strongest quality, as well 
as of the best flavor. If the flavor of 
chilis, capsicums, tarragon, eschalots, gar- 
lic, or any root, is wished to be imparted 
to the vinegar, it is only necessary to 
put a portion of either (say one oz.) into 
a bottleful of the liquid ; cork it closely, 
and in a very few weeks it will be found 
thoroughly impregnated with the pecu- 
liar taste ; then strain it off, and fill the 
bottle up again, as it will answer for 
more than once. The flavor of any herb 
will also be communicated by boiling it 
for a short time in the acid ; as well as a 
few fruits, the flavor of which is very de- 
licious when imparted to vinegar. 

PicMes should be made at home, as 
both cheaper and better. The pickles 
should be kept either in glass bottles, or 
in stone or unglazed jars, as the vinegar, 
or even soured vegetables, will corrode 
the glazing of the jars, which, being made 
from lead, is poisonous. Use saucepans 
lined with earthenware or stone pipkins 
to boil your vinegar in. If you are com- 
pelled to use tin, do not let your vinegar 
remain in it one moment longer than ac- 
tually necessary ; employ also wooden 
knives and forks in the preparation of 
your pickles. Fill your jax's three parts 



full with the articles to be pickled, and 
then add vinegar up to the neck of the 
jar or bottle. 

When greening, keep the pickles cov- 
ered down, or the evaporation of the 
steam will injure the color ; a httle nut 
of alum may be added to crisp the pic- 
kles, but it should be very small in pro- 
portion to the quantity, or it will give a 
disagreeable flavor. 

If any symptoms appear of the pickles 
becoming mouldy, boil the vinegar again, 
adding a little more spice; keep them 
also close stopped, as exposure to the air 
makes the pickle soft. 



1121.— TO PICKLE ONIONS. 

Silver Sort. — Choose small button 
onions, as near of a size as possible; 
throw them into warm water, which will 
prevent their affecting the eyes so much, 
while peeling them. As they are peeled, 
throw them into a strong brine of salt 
and water, with a small bit of alum ; let 
them remain in this till the next day, 
then put them on the fire, and boil them 
in it for a minute. Or, as they are peeled, 
throw them into milk and water ; drain 
them from this when they are all done, 
put them into a jar, and pour the brine 
on them boiling hot ; cover them close, 
and set them aside till the next day; 
drain and dry them in a cloth ; put them 
into cold vinegar, with a few blades of 
bruised ginger, some whole pepper, and, 
if approved, a little mace and sliced 
horseradish ; keep them always well 
covered with vinegar ; cork the jar close, 
and put it in a cool dry place. 

Full-grown Sort. — Peel and slice large 
onions, and sprinkle them with salt. To 
every gallon take about a dozen capsi- 
cums, either dry or green, slicing only a 
part ; add a few cloves, some pepper and 
allspice, all whole. Put the onions into 
jars, distribute the spices pretty equally 
among' them, fill up the jars with vine- 



39J: 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



gar, and set them in a pan of cold water 
over the fire, taking care that they are 
closely tied down with a bladder : keep 
a wet cloth over them to prevent the 
bladder from bursting. In about an 
hour and a half the onions will be soft 
enough. 

Onions and Cucumbers. — To every 
dozen of cucumbers put three large onions, 
cut botli in thick sUces, and sprinkle salt 
over them. Next day drain them for 
five or six hours, then put them into a 
stone jar, pour boiling vinegar over them, 
and keep them in a warm place. Repeat 
the boiling vinegar, and stop them up 
again instantly, and so on till green ; the 
last time put pepper and ginger ; keep in 
stone jars. The vinegar is very good for 
winter salads. 

1122. -GAELIC PICKLE. 

Steep one quarter of a pound of ginger 
in strong salt and water for five days, 
then cut it into slices and dry it in the 
sun ; put it into a large stone jar with a 
gallon of the best white-wine vinegar. 
Peel one pound of garlic, salt it well, and 
let it stand in the salt three days ; wipe 
it, and dry it in the sun, then put it into 
the pickle ; add also a quarter of a pound 
of long pepper steeped in salt and water 
and well dried, one pound of mustard- 
seed bruised, and a quarter of a pound 
of turmeric. Shake these ingredients 
well m the jar, and add any thing that it 
is desirable to pickle as it comes into 
season, salting and drying them pre- 
viously in the sun. When completed, the 
pickle should be kept a year or two be- 
fore it is used. 

Shalots may be pickled in the same 
way ; or if put, as we have already stat- 
ed, in a bottle of cold vinegar, their fla- 
vor will be imparted to it in the course 
of a month. 

1128.— CUCUMBERS. 
Iffull-groirn^ the small long sort are 



the best for pickling. Let them be fresh- 
gathered ; pull off the blossoms, but do 
not rub them ; pour over them a strong 
brine of salt and water boiling hot, cover 
them close, and let them stand all night. 
The next day stir them gently to take 
off the sand, drain them on a sieve, and 
dry them on a cloth ; make a pickle with 
the best white-wine vinegar, ginger, 
pepper (long and round), and a little 
garlic. When the pickle boils throw in 
the cucumbers, cover them, and make 
them boil as quickly as possible for three 
or four minutes ; put them into a jar with 
the vinegar, and cover them closely; 
when cold, put in a sprig of dill, the seed 
downward. They will be exceedingly 
crisp and green done in this manner ; but 
if they do not appear to be of a fine color, 
boil up the pickle the next day, and pour 
it boiling on the cucumbers. 

1124— MUSHROOMS. 

To picMe Mushrooms White. — Take 
the very small buttons, clean and rub 
them with a flannel, then put them into 
cold distilled vinegar, and allow it to 
come to a boil very slowly ; drain and lay 
them in a cloth till cold, and then put 
them into fresh distilled vinegar. If 
very small, the}' should not be allowed 
to boil, as so strong a heat might destroy 
them. It will, therefore, be sufficient to 
warm them ; and when dried, they may 
be again put into the vinegar in which 
they had been orighially placed, after it 
has been cooled. As to spice, a httle 
mace will improve their flavor, but no 
hot pepper should be used. Those which 
are red underneath, may also be used ; 
but those which are black are too old, 
and only fit for broiling or to make 
ketchup. 

To picMe Mushrooms Brown. — Choose 
them older, but see that they be fresh, 
and of a nearly pink color underneath ; 
clean, and sprinkle them with salt, put 
them in layers, and let them stand for a 



PICKLES. 



395 



couple of days; then add some whole 
pepper, cover them very close, and put 
them into an oven when bread is baking. 
That done, take them out, strain off the 
liquor, into which put cloves, mace, and 
allspice, and let the whole boil for a little 
while. While that is doing, put the 
mushrooms into the stewpan for a short 
time, then take the whole off the fire, 
and when perfectly cold pot them, with 
the addition of a little vinegar. 

An excellent way to preserve the flavor 
of mushrooms when ielng pichled, is, to 
rub them with a bit of flannel and salt, 
and from the larger take out the red in- 
side ; when they are black they will not 
do, being too old. Throw a little salt 
over, and put them into a stewpan with 
some mace ; as the liquor comes out, 
shake them well, and keep them over a 
gentle fire, till all of it be dried into them 
again ; then put as much vinegar into the 
pan as will cover them, give it one warm, 
and turn all into a glass or stone jar. 
They will keep two years, and are de- 
licious. 

1125.— MUSHROOM POWDER. 

Wash a half peck of large mushrooms 
while quite fresh, and free them from 
dirt and grit with flannel ; scrape out the 
black part clean, and do not use any that 
are worm-eaten ; put them into a stewpan 
over the fire without water, with two 
large onions, some cloves, a quarter of 
an ounce of maces, and two spoonfuls of 
white pepper, all in powder ; simmer and 
shake them till all the liquor be dried 
up, but be careful they do not burn. Lay 
them on tins or sieves, in a slow oven, 
till they are dry enough to beat to pow- 
der ; then put the powder in small bot- 
tles corked and tied closely, and keep in 
a dry place. 

A teaspoonful will give a very fine 
flavor to any soup or gravy, or any sauce. 
It is to be added just before serving, and 
one boil given to it after it is put in. 



1126.— TO PICKLE WALNUTS. 
Gather the walnuts when tender, and 
put them in salt and water : prick each 
with a needle several times ; let them 
stand two or three days, changing the 
water every day. Make a brine of salt 
and water strong enough to bear an egg ; 
it must be quite cold before being used, 
and be well skimmed while boiling. To 
every hundred walnuts allow one gallon 
of water. Let the walnuts soak six 
days, then change the brine, and let them 
stand six more; then drain them, and 
expose them to the sun that they may 
turn black ; pour over them, in a jar, a 
pickle of the best white-wine vinegar, 
with a good quantity of pepper, pimento, 
ginger, mace, cloves, mustard-seed, and 
horseradish, all boiled together, but cold. 
To every hundred walnuts allow six 
spoonfuls of mustard-seed, with an ounce 
of whole black pepper, and two or three 
heads of garlie or shalot, but the latter is 
least strong ; let them be quite covered 
with vinegar. This done, they will be 
good for several years, if closely covered. 
The air will soften them. They will 
not, however, be fit to eat under six 
months. 

1127.— TO PICKLE RADISH-PODS. 
Gather the radish-pods when they are 
quite young, and put them into salt and 
water all night ; then boil the salt and 
water, and pour it over the pods in jars, 
and cover them closely to keep in the 
steam. When the brine is cold boil it, 
and pour it hot upon the pods again, re- 
peating the process until they are green ; 
then put them in a sieve to drain, and 
make a pickle for them of white-wine 
vinegar, mace, ginger, long pepper, and 
horseradish ; pour it boiling hot upon 
the pods, and when nearly cold boil it 
again, and pour it over them. When 
cold, tie down the jars. 

1128.— TO PICKLE FRENCH BEANS. 

Gather them before they become 



396 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



stringy, and, without taking off the ends, 
put them into a very strong brine until 
they become yellow ; drain the liquor 
from them, and wipe them dry with a 
cloth. Put them into a stone jar by the 
fire, put in a little bit of alum, and pour 
boihng vinegar upon them every twenty- 
four hours, preventing the escape of the 
steam. In four or five days they will 
become green. Boil a little mace, whole 
pepper, and ginger ia the vinegar. 
Do sampMre the same way. 

1129— NASTURTIUMS 

So much resemble capers, both in fla- 
vor and the mode of pickling, as to be 
frequently used in the same manner ; 
the seeds should be allowed to get ripe 
after the buds and flowers have gone off. 
Gather them upon a dry day, and keep 
them for a few days after they have been 
gathered ; put them into a jar, and pour 
boiling vinegar well spiced upon them ; 
when cold, cover the jar. They will not 
be fit for use for some months, but will 
be finely flavored after keeping, and are 
sometimes preferred to capers, for which 
they are an excellent substitute, being 
useful also in serving up all dishes in 
which pickles are warmed with the 
gravy. Young red capsicums and elder- 
flowers before they open may be done in 
the same way. 

1130— TO PICKLE RED CABBAGE. 

Take those of a deep red or purple 
color, strip off the outer leaves and cut 
out the stalk ; quarter the cabbage 
lengthwise and cut it crosswise, but not 
in very thin slices ; put it into a sieve 
and sprinkle it with salt and saltpetre; 
let it drain for twenty -four hours, then 
squeeze it until it is very dry ; make a 
pickle with sufficient vinegar to cover the 
cabbages well, and made with equal quan- 
tities of cloves and allspice, with a little 
mace — to be put in whole, to which if a 
very small quantity of cochineal be add- 



ed, it will greatly improve the color; 
boil the vinegar and spices together for 
full five minutes, and strain it ; then, 
having put the cabbage into a stone jar, 
pour the vinegar over it boiling hot. 

This is opposed to the pi"actice of some 
persons, who object to boiling the vine- 
gar, and pour it cold upon the cabbage. 

1131.— CABBAGE, WHITE, PICKLED. 

Slice your cabbage thin, then lay it in 
salt for twenty-four hours ; strain it 
very dry, then put it in a stone jar with 
allspice, mace, and vinegar, and pour it 
on boiling hot. tie it very clo.se, repeat 
the vinegar three times, and it will be fit 
for use. 

1132.— CABBAGE, PURPLE, TO PICKLE. 

Take two cauliflowers, two red cab- 
bages, half a peck of kidney beans, stick 
with sis cloves of garlic on each stick, 
wash all well ; give them one boil up, 
then strain them in a sieve, lay them leaf 
by leaf upon a large table and salt them 
with coarse salt ; then lay them to dry in 
the sun, or in a slow oven, until as dry 
as cork. 

1133.— CELERY, TO PICKLE. 

Separate the stalks from the head, clean 
them thoroughly, and put them into salt 
and water strong enough to bear an egg ; 
let them remain in this for a w^eek or ten 
days, or until wanted to pickle ; then 
take them out, wash them well in clean 
water, drain dry, place in a jar, and pour 
boiling vinegar over, to which any ap- 
proved spices ma}' have been added. As 
is usual for pickling keep it well covered 
with vinegar ; if the celery is allowed to 
remain a long time in salt and water, it 
will be necessary to soak it in clean 
water for a day or two, changing the 
water occasionally. 

IISI— TO PICKLE CAULIFLOWERS. 

Take the closest and whitest cauli- 



PICKLES. 



397 



flowers you can get, and pull them in 
bunches, and spread them on an earthen 
dish, and lay salt all over them, let them 
stand for three days to bring out all the 
water, then put them in earthen jars, 
and pour boiling salt and water upon 
them, and let them stand all night, then 
drain them on a hair sieve, and put them 
into glass jars, and fill up your jars with 
vinegar, and tie them close down with 
leather. 

1185— PiCKLEr) TOMATOES. 

The tomatoes should not be very ripe. 

Mix in a large stone jar, one ounce of 
mustard, and half the same quantity of 
cloves and black pepper, and fill the jar 
half full of the best vinegar. Lay in the 
tomatoes, mixing with them a dozen or 
more whole onions. 

The jar should not be opened for a 
month, when the pickles will be fit for 
use ; great care must be taken to close 
the jar well whenever pickles are taken 
out. This done, they will keep a year. 

Anotlier. — Take a peck of ripe toma- 
toes, prick them with a fork, and lay 
them in a jar with layers of salt. Let 
them remain eight days in salt ; then 
take them out and put them for twenty- 
four hours in fresh water with a little 
vinegar. 

Take them out, press them gently, and 
lay them on a sieve to drain. Slice 
twelve large onions, or more smaller 
ones. Put a layer of the tomatoes in a 
stone jar, and cover them with a layer 
of slices of onion. Over this strew 
mustard, allspice, black pepper, and 
cloves — all but the cloves ground fine. 
Then place on the mass another layer of 
tomatoes, with another of sliced onions 
and the mixed spices. Place the layers 
alternately till the jar is filled. Then 
pour over it the best vinegar, filling the 
jar, and cover closely. The pickles will 
be fit for use in ten days. 



1136.— TO PICEXE LEMONS. 

Take the finest with the thickest rind 
you can get, cut them deeply from end 
to end in more than one place, but not 
quite through, and fill the incisions with 
salt ; put each on end, and lay them in a 
dish near the fire, or in the sun if the 
weather be hot, to dissolve the salt, and 
repeat this during three weeks ; then 
put them into a jar, with a handful of 
white mustard-seed if it be large, one- 
quarter to one-half a pound of bruised 
ginger, half that quantity of cloves and 
allspice, a few chilis, and a very little 
turmeric; boil in vinegar, and pour it 
upon the lemons when cold. It was 
originally prepared by the cook of the 
first Earl of Orford. 

Some people, however, add to it either 
shalot or garlic. It can hardly be ready 
in less than six months, but will keep 
for many years. 

For limes, or very small lemons,^ the 
same method must be pursued, only they 
will not require above half the time. 

1137.— MAJ^GOES. 

Cut a piece ofi" the top or side of young 
mush-melons, and remove the pulp and 
seeds ; tie on the pieces, green them, and 
fill the inside with grated horseradish, 
spices, cloves, ginger, mustard-seed, onion 
or garlic, and slices of the core of cab- 
bage. Tie on the pieces again, pour on 
them scalding vinegar, four days in suc- 
cession, and keep them in covered jars. 

Mangoes may be made of peaches. 

Observe that there be plenty of vine- 
gar, as pickles are spoiled if not well 
covered. Large cucumbers, called " green 
turley," prepared in the same way, are 
excellent, and are sooner fit to be eaten. 

The greater number of times boiling 
vinegar is poured over either sort, the 
sooner it will be ready. 

1188.— MIXED PICKLE. 
To one gallon of vinegar put four 



898 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



ounces of ginger bruised, two ounces of 
white pepper, two of allspice, two of 
chilis, four of turmeric, one pound of 
mustard-seed, one-half pound of shalots, 
one ounce of garlic, and one-half pound 
of coarse salt. Boil all together except the 
mustard-seed, which must be added af- 
terwards. Then mix very smoothly one- 
quarter of a pound of made mustard 
with some of the vinegar, when cold, in 
a basin, and add it to the remainder with 
the seed. Take broccoli, radish-pods, 
French beans, or any other vegetables or 
small fruit ; blanch the vegetables, lay 
them on a sieve, and sprinkle a little salt 
over them to draw out the water. Let 
them stand in the sun till very dry, then 
pour the vinegar boiling over them, sli- 
cing in some horseradish if approved. 

Pickle of this kind can be rendered 
hot at pleasure, by additions of chilis, 
green and red capsicums — which, when 
gathered young, add exquisite flavor — 
and all sorts of foreign peppers. As the 
spring advances, a portion of every small 
root produced in a garden, if collected 
and thrown into cold vinegar, till it can 
be conveniently made into a regular 
pickle, will be found most excellent, at 
no greater expense than the cost of the 
spice and vinegar, and the trouble of 
mixino; it. 



1139.— INDIA PICKLE 

Is made in nearly the same manner. 
Put two hundred gherkins, three pints 
of small onions, one quart of nastur- 
tiums, one ditto of radish-pods, one 
quart of French beans, six cauliflowers, 
and two hard white cabbages sliced, into 
a pan, and sprinkle them with salt, the 
onions having been previously peeled and 
laid in salt and water for a week to take 
off their strength. Then, after a day or 
two, take them out of the pan and dry 
them thoroughly in a warm place in the 
shade: they must be spread out sepa- 



rately. To two gallons of vinegar put 
one and a half ounces of allspice, the 
same of long pepper and of white, and 
two of ginger, tied up in muslin bags. 
When cold, mix with the vinegar one 
and a half pounds of flour of mustard, 
and two table-spoonfuls of cayenne pep- 
per. Boil it well together, and pour it 
on the pickle : the vegetables mentioned, 
not being all procurable at the same 
time, may be added separately, at differ- 
ent periods, but they must all undergo 
the salting and drying process. 

In choosing those vegetables some dis- 
crimination may also be used : when in 
season, few things add a higher flavor to 
the pickle than the buds and flowers of 
the elder. 

1140. -PLUMS, TO PICKLE LIKE OLIVES. 

T ake the plums before they are quite 
ripe, and put them into a saucepan with 
some white wine vinegar, salt water, fen- 
nel seed, and dill, as much of each as 
will impart a flavor to the pickle ; when 
it boils put in the plums, let it boil 
again, then take it off", let it stand till 
cold, then put them into jars. 

1141.— QUINCE, TO PICKLE 

Pare and cut half a dozen quinces into 
small pieces, and put them with a gallon 
of water and two pounds of honey into a 
large saucepan, mix them together well, 
and set them on a slow fire for half an 
hour, strain the liquor into a jar, when 
quite cold wipe the quinces perfectly dry, 
and put them into it ; cover them very 
close. 

1142.— PEACHES AND APEICOTS. 

Take those of a full growth, but per- 
fectly green. Put to a gallon of vinegar 
half an ounce of cloves, the same quantity 
of peppercorns, sliced ginger and mustard- 
seed — add salt and boil tne vinegar — 
then turn it on the peaches scalding hot. 



Turn the vinegar from them several 
times. Heat it scalding hot, and turn it 
back while hot. 

1143.— TO PICKLE GKEEN PEPPERS. 

The peppers must be pickled when 
half ripe, and the smallest ones chosen. 
Make a small hole at the top and another 
at the bottom of the pepper, and extract 
the core and seeds, A penknife should 
be used in performing this operation. 
Simmer the peppers for a whole day in 
salt and water over a very moderate fire 
— stir them every once and awhile that 
those at the bottom may not burn. 
Leave them over night to cool, and the 
next morning lay them gently into a jar, 
sprinkle a small quantity of mustard over 
them, and fill up the jar with cold vine- 
gar. 

1144— BUTTERNUTS. 

The nuts for pickling should be gather- 
ed as early as July. When a pin will go 
through them easily, they are young 
enough to pickle. Soak them in salt and 
water a week-:— then drain it off. Rub 
them with a cloth, to get oflF the rough- 
ness. To a gallon of vinegar put a tea- 
cup of salt, a tablespoonful of powdered 
cloves and mace, mixed together, half an 
ounce of allspice, and peppercorns. Boil 
the vinegar and spices, and pour it hot on 
the nuts. In a week scald the vinegar, 
and pour over them again. They will 
be fit for use in a fortnight. 

1145.— TO PICKLE GHERKINS AND KIDNEY 
BEANS. 

Put the beans and gherkins, dried 
with flannel, in salt and water that w^U 
bear an egg, leave them till quite yellow, 
stirring every day. Then put them in a 
brass kettle with cabbage leaves under 
and around them, so that they do not 
touch the brass. Put in one third vine- 
gar and two of water, put a leaf over, 
and cover close, bo as to confine the 



steam. Put them on a slow fire, but do 
not let them boil. Change the leaves as 
often as they grow yellow. When green, 
take out the pickles, and put them on a 
dish to cool and dry. Boil the vinegar 
with a spoonful of black pepper, and one 
of bruised ginger to a quart; throw it 
boiling over the pickles, and cover them 
closely in small jars. 

1146.— BARBERRIES. 

Barberries make very good pickles, 
and are always useful in ornamenting 
certain dishes. Leave the barberries on 
the stem, lay them in a stone jar and fill 
it up with cold vinegar. 

114T.— GRAPES. 

Cut them, when hardly ripe, in bunches, 
put them in a jar with vine leaves 
between each layer of giapes until the jar 
is filled ; then take as much spring water 
as wiU cover the grapes and the leaves. 
As it heats put in as much salt as will 
make a brine sufllciently strong to bear 
an egg, you may use common salt : 
when it boils skim it, strain it through 
a flannel bag and let it stand to set- 
tle ; by the time it is cold it will be 
quite settled; strain it a second time 
through a flannel bag, then pcur it 
into a jar upon the grapes, which must 
be well covered ; fill the jar with vine 
leaves, then tie it over with a double 
cloth and set a plate upon it ; let it stand 
for two days, then take off" the cloth, 
pour away the brine^ then take out the 
leaves and the grapes, and lay them be- 
tween two cloths to dry, then take two 
quarts of vinegar, one quart of spring 
water, and one pound of coarse sugar, 
boil it for a short time and skim it very 
clean as . it boils ; let it stand till it is 
quite cold. Wipe the jar very clean and 
dry, lay some fresh vine leaves at the 
bottom between every bunch of grapes 
and on the top ; then pour and strain the 
pickle on the grapes, fill the jar, let the 



400 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



pickle be above the grapes, tie up a thin 
piece of board in a flannel, lay it on the 
grapes to keei^ them under the pickle, 
tie them down with a bladder, and over 
that a leather, always keeping the grapes 
under the pickle. 

1148.— APPLE CODLINGS, TO PICKLE. 

Gather the codlings when of the size 
of a large double walnut ; take a pan and 
make a thick layer of vine leaves at the 
bottom ; put in the codlings and cover 
them well with vine leaves and spring 
water, and put them over a slow fire till 
they are sufficiently tender to pare the 
skins with ease with a small sharp knife, 
put them into the same water with vine 
leaves as before ; cover them close, and 
set the pan at a short distance from the 
fire until they are of a fine green, then 
drain them in a colander till they are 
cold ; put them into jars with some mace 
and a clove or two of garlic, according to 
the quantity of the apples, and cover 
them with distilled vinegar; pour over 
mutton fat, and tie them down with a 
bladder and leather very tight. 

1149.— AKTICHOKES PICKLED. 

Boil the artichokes till you can pull 
the leaves off"; take out the choke and 
cut away the stalk, be careful that the 
knife does not touch the top ; throw 
them into salt and water ; when they 
have lain an hour take them out and 
drain them, then put them into glasses 
or jars, and put a little mace and sliced 
nutmeg between ; fill them with vinegar 
and spring water, cover your jars close. 

VINEGARS. 
1150.— VINEGAR FOR INDIA PICKLE. 

Prepare a gallon of vinegar, more or 
les.s, according to the quantity of pickles 
to be done, in the following manner : — 

Mix gradually one-quarter of a pound 



of the best flour of mustard, and two 
ounces of powdered turmeric, Avith some 
of the cold vinegar at first, to ensure its 
being properly mixed ; then add the rest, 
with one-quarter of a pound of white 
mustard-seed. Bruise one-quarter of a 
pound of ginger, two ounces of white 
pepper, and one ounce of cliilis, and tie 
them in a muslin bag. Boil the whole 
gently for twenty minutes or half an 
hour, and pour it whilst boiling on the 
pickles, having previously drained off 
the vinegar they were first put in. In 
ten or twelve days repeat the boiling, 
pour it over the pickles whilst boiling 
hot, and they will be ready for use when 
cold. 

1151.— WALNUT VINEGAR. 

Put green walnut-shells into a brine 
of salt and water strong enough to float 
an egg ; let them lie covered in this ten 
or twelve days ; take them out, and lay 
them in the sun for a week ; put them 
into a jar, and pour boiling vinegar on 
them ; in about a week or ten days pour 
off the vinegar, make it boiling hot, and 
pour over them again. In a month it 
will be fit for use, and will be found ex- 
cellent to eat with cold meat, and par- 
ticularly useful in making sauces. 

1152.— CUCUMBER VINEGAR. 

Pare and slice fifteen large cucumbers, 
and put them in a stone jar, with three 
pints of vinegar, four large onions sliced, 
two or three shalots, a little garlic, two 
large spoonfuls of salt, three teaspoon- 
fuls of pepper, and half a teaspoonful of 
cayenne. After standing four days, give 
the whole a boil : when cold, strain, and 
filter the liquor through paper. 

1153.— CAMP VINEGAR. 

Slice a large head of garlic, and put it 
into a wide-mouthed bottle, with half an 
ounce of cayenne, two teaspoonfuls of 



TTNEGAES. 



401 



real soy, two of walnut ketchup, four 
anchovies chopped, one pint of vinegar, 
and enough cochineal to give it the color 
of lavender-drops. Let it stand six 
weeks ; then strain oflF quite clear, and 
keep in small bottles sealed up. 

Another : — Infuse in a quart of the best 
white-wine vinegar, a quarter of a pint 
of walnut ketchup, the same quantity of 
mushroom ketchup, and the same quan- 
tity of soy, half an ounce of cayenne, 
four heads of garlic, ten shalots, two 
ounces of black and two ounces of white 
pepper, the same quantity of pimento 
and ginger, one ounce of nutmeg, three 
blades of mace, and ten cloves, in a wide- 
mouthed, two-quart bottle; and cover 
very closely with cork, leather, and blad- 
der. Let it remain near the fire a month, 
shaking it frequently. When any is 
taken out, put in as much fresh vinegar. 
This is not only a very fine sauce, but a 
great preservative against infectious dis- 
eases, if taken freely. 

1154.— NASTUETICM VINEGAR. 

Pick full-blown nasturtium flowers; 
fill a wide-mouthed bottle with them ; 
add half a clove of garlic and a moderate- 
sized chalot chopped ; pour as much vine- 
gar as the bottle will take ; in two 
months' time rub the whole through a 
fine sieve; add a little cayenne pepper 
and salt. 

1155. -TARRAGON AND ELDER-FLOWER 
VINEGAR. 

Take either the young leaves of tarra- 
gon when the plant is going into bloom, 
or the buds of elder-flowers, and to 
every half peck put one gallon of vine- 
gar, leaving it for a fo"rtnight in a jug to 
ferment. Then drain it through a flannel 
bag, put into it a small bit of dissolved 
isinglass, and bottle it- 

The flavor of the herbs may also be 
extracted by boiling the herbs or leaves 
in vinegar, without fermentation : a mix- 
ture of both is very agreeable. 



1156.— RASPBERRY VINEGAR. 
To one quart of common vinegar put 
two quarts of fresh raspberries ; let them 
stand twenty-four hours ; then drain 
them off", but do not squeeze them. Put 
in two quarts more, let them stand as 
before, and this must be repeated a third 
time. After which, put the vinegar into 
a jar, measure it, and to every pint put 
one pound of lump-sugar. Set the jar 
up to the neck in boiling water, and let 
the vinegar boil for ten minutes, stirring 
it frequently. There should on no ac- 
count be fewer raspberries than the pro- 
portion mentioned, and the vinegar will 
not be fit for use until the following sum- 
mer. 

1157.— SUGAR VINEGAR. 
To every gallon of water put two 
pounds of coar.'^e brown sugar. Boil 
and skim this. Put it to cool in a clean 
tub; when about lukewarm, add a slice 
of bread soaked in fresh yeast Barrel 
it in a week, and set it in the sun in 
summer or by the fire in winter, for six 
months, without stopping the bung-hole ; 
but cover it with thin canvass or an in- 
verted bottle to keep out the flies. 

1158.— CIDER VINEGAR. 

Put a pound of white sugar to a gal- 
lon of cider, and shaking them well to- 
gether, let them ferment for four months ; 
a strong and well-colored vinegar-will be 
the result. 

1159.-FLAVORED VINEGARS. 

These are a cheap and agreeable addi- 
tion to sauces, hashes, &c. For one, infuse 
a hundred red chilis, fresh gathered, into a 
quart of good vinegar ; let them stand 
ten days, shaking the bottle every day. 
A half ounce of cayenne will answer the 
same purpose. This is good in melted 
butter for fish sauce, &c. 

1160.-CELERT VINEGAR. 

Pouud a half ounce of celery seed, and 



402 



THE PRACTICAL H0U8EKEEPEK. 



steep it for ten days ia a quart of vine- 
gar ; strain and bottle it. 

1161.— HOESERADISH VINEGAR. 

Pour a quart of strong vinegar, boil- 
ing hot, on three ounces of scraped horse- 
radish and a teaspoonful of pounded 
black pepper, and half the quantity of 
cayenne. Let it stand four days, tightly 
covered, then strain and put it in the 
cruet for use. It is good on cold roast 
beef, and excellent in the gravy for chops, 
steaks, &c. 

1162.— GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR. 

Boil water, and when cold put to every 
three quarts one quart of bruised goose- 
berries in a large tub. Let them remain 
sixty hours, stirring often ; then strain 
through a hair bag, and to each gallon of 
liquor add one pound of the coarsest 
sugar. Put it into a barrel, and a toast 
and yeast ; cover the bung- hole with a 
bit of slate. Set the barrel in the sun, 
observing that the cask be well painted, 
and the iron hoops all firm. The greater 
the quantity of sugar and fruit, the 
stronger the vinegar ; and as this is parti- 
cularly useful for pickles, it might be well 
to make it of double the strength for that 
purpose. 

1163.— CHILI VINEGAR. 

Fill a bottle with the chilis or capsi- 
cums-:— each of which will impart the 
proper warmth of flavor — and cover them 
with vinegar ; cork it up closely, let it 
stand for three weeks or a month, then 
pour off the vinegar, and fill up the bottle 
again : chilis are the most commonly 
used, but good capsicums will flavor 
several additions of vinegar. If capsi- 
cums are not procurable, put one ounce 
of cayenne pepper to a quart of vinegar, 
and let it stand some time, shaking it 
occasionally. Then strain it ofiF, and fill 
the bottle up again. 



1164.— LEMON FLAVORING FOR PUDDINGS. 

Peel six lemons very thin indeed ; put 
the peel into a glass bottle, and add a 
table- spoonful of bitter almonds,blanched, 
or the same quantity of peach or apri- 
cot kernels. Cover the whole with 
brandy ; shake it frequently, and in a 
month strain it, and if kept closely cork- 
ed it will keep for years. 

1165.— MUSHROOM KETCHUP. 

Take the full-grown flaps of freshly- 
gathered mushrooms, crush them with 
the hands, throw a handful of salt into 
every peck, and let them stand a night or 
two ; then put them into pans, and set 
them in a quick oven for twelve hours ; 
strain them through a hair sieve, ^nd 
press out all the juice. To every gallon 
of liquor put of cloves, Jamaica and black 
pepper, and ginger, one ounce each, and 
half a pound of common salt. Set it on 
a slow fire, and let it boil until half the 
liquor is wasted ; then put it into another 
vessel, and, when cold, strain and bottle 
it ; at the same time corking it up close- 
ly, and covering the cork with oiled 
paper. 

Or: — Take the largest broad mush- 
rooms, break them into an earthen pan, 
strew salt over, and stir them now and 
then for several days, till there is a thick 
scum over : strain and boil the liquor 
with Jamaica and black peppers, mace, 
ginger, a clove or two. and some mustard 
seed. Cayenne pepper is too hot, but a 
very little chili vinegar is an improve- 
ment. When cold, bottle it, and secure 
the corks as above, leaving the spice in. 
At the end of three months strain the 
liquor and boil it with fresh spice, which 
put into the bottles ; and in a cool place 
it will keep two or three years. 

We strongly recommend the addition 
of a moderate quantity of port wine — 
from half a pint to not quite a pint to 
every four quarts — both as greatly im- 



KETCHUPS. 



403 



proving the flavor of the ketchup and en- 
suring its better preservation. 

"With regard to the spice^ care should 
be taken not to allow it to overpower the 
natural flavor of the vegetable. 

116C.— WALNUT KETCHUP. 

Thoroughly bruise one hundred and 
twenty young walnuts ; put to them 
three-quarters of a pound of fine salt and 
a quart of vinegar ; stir them every day 
for a fortnight ; then strain ; squeeze the 
liquor from them through a cloth ; add 
to this one ounce of whole black pepper, 
forty cloves, half an ounce of nutmeg 
bruised, half an ounce of ginger, and a 
few blades of mace. Boil the whole for 
half an hour; strain and bottle it for 
use. 

Walnut KetcJmp of the finest quality 
— Boil or simmer a gallon of the express- 
ed juice of walnuts when they are tender, 
and skim it well ; then put in two pounds 
of anchovies, bones, and liquor, ditto of 
shalots, one ounce of cloves, ditto of 
mace, ditto of pepper, and one clove of 
garlic. Let all simmer till the shalots 
sink ; then put the liquor into a pan till 
cold ; bottle and divide the spice to each. 
Cork closely, tie the bladder over, and 
put it in small bottles. 

It will keep twenty years in the 
greatest perfection, but is not fit for use 
the first year. Be very careful to ex- 
press the juice at home, for it is generally 
adulterated if bought. 

Irish mode : — Take a few hundred 
green walnuts, scoop out all the whites, 
beat them in a mortar, and strain the 
juice through a cloth ; let it stand a day 
and night, strain it, and pour it off" clear. 
To one pint of this liquor put half a pint 
of vinegar with half a pound of anchovies, 
and to each pint thus made a clove or 
two of garlic, two or three shalots, some 
horseradish, and one onion cut in quar- 
ters ; boil it two houis, and then strain 



it off". When strained add to every pint 
of liquor half a quarter of an ounce of 
mace, the same quantity of cloves, of 
nutmeg, and of whole black pepper, half 
a pint of port wine, and two table-spoon- 
fuls of soy. Boil them together for half 
an hour. Then pour it off" into an earthen 
jar, and let it remain covered until it is 
cold ; bottle it off" into clean dry bottles, 
distributing the spice equally in each ; 
cork it down closely ; take care in boiling 
to keep the saucepan covered. 

1167.— CUCUMBER KETCHUP. 

Take an equal quantity of hirge cucum- 
bers and large onions, pare and slice 
them ; throw over them a handful of salt, 
and let them stand all night in a sieve 
placed over a pan. Take the liquor and 
boil it up, with a quarter of a pound of 
anchovies to every dozen of cucumbers, 
one pint of white wine, a nutmeg, a 
quarter of an ounce of mace, and half an 
ounce of whole pepper ; strain it, and 
when cold bottle it ; tie it down with 
bladder. It will keep for two years. 

The Suffolk Eeceipt. — Take a dozen 
well-grown cucumbers and four large 
onions, slice them into an earthen pan 
with a good handful of salt ; let them 
stand till the liquor begins to run, break 
them into small pieces, and let the whole 
stand another day and night : then strain 
it off" ; to every quart put the same quan- 
tity of white, but not sweet wine, half a 
pound of anchovies, and a large stick of 
horseradish ; boil them together for half 
an hour, then strain it again, and to 
every quart put a quarter of an ounce of 
white pepper, half the quantity of mace 
and nutmeg, all pounded, and boil it well 
again. When cold, bottle it with the 
spice, and put a piece of ginger into each 
bottle. A tablespoonful in a sauceboat- 
ful of cream or melted butter makes de- 
licious white sauce for fowls or made 
dishes of veal. 



404 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER, 



1168.— TOMATO KETCHUP. 
Take two dozen of ripe tomatoes and a 
handful of salt ; slice the tomatoes, and 
put a layer into a jar, sprinkle salt over 
it. then another layer of tomatoes and 
salt, until the jar is full. Stir the con- 
tents now and then for three or four 
days, keeping the jar in a warm place by 
the fire ; at the expiration of which time 
press the juice from the tomatoes by 
rubbing them with a wooden spoon 
through a sieve, and boil it with mace, 
pepper, allspice, ginger, and cloves, in the 
proportion of about two ounces in all to 
one quart of juice, a few blades of mace, 
twelve cloves, a spoonful of pounded 
ginger, and the remainder pepper and all- 
spice. In three months boil it again 
with fresh spice. 

1169.— TOMATO SAUCE FOE WINTER USE. 
One peck of tomatoes, six onions sliced, 
two heads of celery, a dozen shalots, one 
ounce of cayenne pepper, half an ounce 
of black pepper, one ounce of mace in 
powder. Slice them into a well-tinned 
saucepan, mixing the seasoning with them 
as they are cut up ; boil, keeping them 
well stirred ; when thoroughly soft, drain 
off the water, and rub through a hair 
sieve. Boil it again until it is as thick 
as apple-sauce Put it into bottles, and 
cork close. Put the bottles into a stew- 
pan, fill it with cold water, and let it 
boil for twenty minutes. Keep in a cool 
place. Examuie the bottles occasionally, 
and if there is the least indication of a 
change turn it into the kettle again, boil 
and skim it, keeping it well stirred from 
the bottom that it may not adhere, and 
put it into the bottles again. When re- 
quired for use, warm what is wanted 
with a little gravy. It is as nice as when 
fresh done, and will be found excellent 
with calf's head or brains, veal, beef, 
mutton, pork, or goose. An onion or a 
shalot, boiled in the gravy with which 
H is mixed, will be an improvement. 



1170.— CAMP KETCHUP. 

Take two quarts of old strong beer 
and one of white wine, add a quarter of 
a pound of anchovies, three ounces of 
shalots peeled, half aii ounce of mace, 
the same of nutmeg, three large races of 
ginger cut in slices ; put all together over 
a moderate fire till one third is wasted. 
The next day bottle it with the spice and 
the shalots. It will keep for many 
years. 

Or : — A pint of claret, the same quan- 
tity of ketchup, four ounces of ancho- 
vies, one ounce of fresh lemon-peel pared 
thin, two cloves of garlic minced fine, 
half an ounce of allspice, the same of 
black and of red pepper, one drachm of 
celery-seed bruised, and half a pint of 
pickle-liquor. Put these ingredients into 
a wide-mouthed bottle ; stop it close, 
shake it every day for a fortnight, and 
then strain it ofif. 

1171.— SEVEN-TEARS' KETCHUP. 

Take two quarts of the oldest strong 
beer, put to it one quart of red wine, 
three-quarters of a pound of anchovies, 
three ounces of shalots peeled, half an 
ounce of mace, the same of nutmegs, 
quarter of an ounce of cloves, three large 
races of ginger cut in slices, and boil all 
together over a moderate fire till one- 
third is wasted. When quite cold put 
it into a large jar, covered up, and leave 
it there for a week or two until the sedi- 
ment is wasted, and the clear liquor is 
perfectly transparent ; then strain it 
through a fine hair sieve, taste it, and 
add to it a little of any essence of spice, 
oil, or vinegar, which you think may im- 
prove it, and, if the liquid be not lucidly 
clear, give it one smart boil : let it rest 
till cool, and bottle it in very small bot- 
tles to prevent its frequent exposure to 
the air. 

It will improve by age, and may be 
carried on a voyage round the world. 

As may also 



STOKEEOOM SAUCES. 



405 



Sauce a la Ililitaire, made thus : — 
Put into an earthen pot six shalots 
sliced, a clove of garlic split, two laurel- 
leaves, a handful of thyme, basil, and tar- 
ragon-leaves, half an ounce of mustard- 
seed bruised, one teaspoonful of grated 
Seville orange-peel, quarter of an ounce 
of cloves, the same quantity of mace, 
half an ounce of long pepper, two ounces 
of salt, the juice of a lemon, six spoon- 
fuls of the strongest vinegar, and half a 
pint of white wine. Stop the pot very 
closely, and put it into an oven, or upon 
hot ashes, for twenty-four hours, to al- 
low the whole to infuse properly. Then 
allow it to settle, and strain it until it is 
quite clear : bottle it, and close the bot- 
tles tightly : a very small quantity will 
be sufficient, and it may be used with all 
sorts of meat, game, or fish. 

1172— ARTIFICIAL SAUCES FOE FISH. 

Those most commonly used are soy 
and anchovy, merely mixed from the 
cruets into melted butter by each indi- 
vidual of the company ; the butter, when 
brought to table in a prepared state, 
should be made as follows : — 

For Anchovy Scmce, the foundation 
should be some of the fish stock or gravy 
which has been already made and kept 
in the house for future use. Take two 
or three anchovies, scrape, but do not 
wash them, and boil them along with a 
minced shalot in some of the gravy, until 
they are soft enough to be pounded to a 
paste. Then strain the gravy and thick- 
en it with the body of the fish, after 
having removed the heads, tails, and 
bones. When that is done, put it, for 
about a quarter of an hour, in the stew- 
pan along with a glass of red wine, a 
squeeze of lemon, and the necessary 
quantity of butter. 

The common mode is, to chop three an- 
chovies, melt a quarter of a pound of 
butter in a teacupful of the water in 
26 



which the fish is boiled, add a spoonful 
of vinegar, and a little flour. Stir it 
well over the fire until it is quite thick.' 

Or : — Not unfrequently two or three 
spoonfuls of the prepared essence of an- 
chovy are put into the melted butter, 
seasoned with a little cayenne pepper. 

The savory store sauces for fish, as 
prepared and sold in the shops, are all to 
a certain degree agreeable to some pal- 
ates, but anchovy and soy seem the pre- 
vailing sort for fish. 

1173.-STOEE SAUCES. 

1. Take two wine-glasses of port, tWo 
of walnut and four of mushroom ketchup, 
four anchovies pounded, with two sha- 
lots, a table-spoonful of soy, and a tea- 
spoonful of cayenne pepper. Boil all 
well together ; when cold, put it into 
bottles well corked ; it will keep good 
for more than a twelvemonth. 

2. Take half an ounce of mace, one 
ounce each of cloves, ginger, and allspice, 
one pound of anchovies, a bottle of either 
white or red wine, half a pint of vine- 
gar, a couple of shalots and a clove of 
garlic chopped, and a stick of scraped 
horseradish, together with a bundle of 
pot-herbs. Let all simmer over a slow 
fire till the anchovies are dissolved ; then 
strain the liquor, bottle it when cold, and 
when wanted for use add a table-spoon- 
ful of the sauce to quarter of a pound of 
melted butter. 

3. Thicken a quarter of a pound of 
butter with flour, and brown it ; then put 
to it one pound of the best anchovies cut 
small, six blades of pounded mace, ten 
cloves, forty berries of black pepper and 
allspice, a few small onions, a fagot of 
sweet herbs (namely, savory, thyme, ba- 
sil, and knotted marjoram), and a little 
parsley and sliced horseradish ; on these 
pour half a pint of the best sherry and a 
pint and a half of strong gravy. Sim- 
mer all gently for twenty minutes, then 



406 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



strain it through a sieve, and bottle it 
for use. The way of using it is, to boil 
some of it in the butter while melting. 

4. Put into a saucepan a pint of fine 
port wine, a gill of mountain, half a pint 
of fine walnut ketchup, twelve anchovies, 
and the liquor that belongs to them, a 
gill of walnut pickle, the rind and juice 
of a large lemon, four or five shalots, 
some cayenne to taste, three ounces of 
scraped horseradish, three blades of mace, 
and two teaspoonfuls of made mustard : 
boil it all gently, till the rawness goes off' 
then put it into small bottles for use. 
Cork them very close, and seal the top. 
* 5. Chop twenty-four anchovies, not 
washed, and ten shalots, and scrape three 
spoonfuls of horseradish ; which, with 
ten blades of mace, twelve cloves, two 
sliced lemons, half a pint of anchovy 
liquor, a quart of hock or R,henish wine, 
and a pint of water, boil to a quart ; 
then strain off; and when cold, add three 
large spoonfuls of walnut ketchup. 

All or any of these will be found ex- 
cellent for family use ; as, when added 
to any common sauce for fish, or even to 
plain melted butter, a moderate quantity 
will impart to it a very fine flavor, and 
in many cases they may be used also for 
meat, if eaten cold. 

Pontac Ketchup is for this purpose 
both very simple and very good. Put 
ripe elderberries, picked from the stalk, 
into a stone jar, with as much strong 
vinegar as will cover them. Bake with 
the bread ; and, while hot, strain. Boil 
the liquor with a sufficient quantity of 
cloves, mace, peppercorns, and shalots 
to give it a fine flavor. When that is ob 
tained, put in half a pound of the finest 
anchovies to every quart of liquor ; stir, 
and boil only until dissolved. When 
cold, put it into pint bottles, and tie 
double hladdern over each cork. The 
same method should be observed for pre- 
serving all ketchups. 



An excellent and not common Pickle^ 
called " Salade^''' may be made thus : — 

Fill a pint stone jar with equal quan- 
tities of onions, cucumbers, and sour ap- 
ples, all cut into very thin slices, shaking 
in, as you go on. one teaspoonful of salt 
and three parts of a teaspoonful of cay- 
enne. Pour in a wine-glass of soy, the 
same of white wine, and fill up the jar 
with vinegar. It will be fit for use the 
same day. 

QuMs Sauce is also excellent. Half 
a pint of common mushroom ketchup, 
half a pint of walnut-liquor, eight an- 
chovies, eight cloves of garlic, four bruis- 
ed and four whole, three teaspoonfuls of 
cayenne pepper, three of mushroom- 
powder, all boiled together for five min- 
utes, and bottled when cold. 

1174.— CAYENNE PEPPER 

May be made by pounding the dry pep- 
pers, or chihs, to a fine powder, with 
salt, and keeping it in bottles. 

1175.— FRENCH MUSTARD. 

To mustard ground, add tarragon vine- 
gar and oil, with salt and garlic. Tarra- 
gon vinegar is made by covering the 
leaves with vinegar, and steeping them 
in it. 



PASTE- 



-MEAT PIES- 
PIES. 



-FISH 



11T6.— VARIOUS SORTS OF PASTE. 

In making paste for p>ies great care 
should be taken that the flour be well 
dried; for the finer kinds of paste it 
ought also to be sifted. The very best 
salt butter is perhaps the best material 
for making paste. Some persons employ 
lard, or equal parts of lard and butter ; 
and clarified dripping is an excellent sub- 
stitute. 



PASTE — RAISED PEES. 



407 



An adept in pastry never leaves any 
part of it adhering to the board or dish 
used in making. The best thing to make 
it upon is a slab of marble or slate ; 
which substances cause less waste, being 
cold and smooth. The coolest part of the 
house, and of the day, should be chosen 
for the process ; the hands should be 
previously washed in very hot water, and 
the less they touch the paste the better 
and lighter it will prove ; nor should it 
be rolled much. 

In whatever way paste be made, wet- 
ting it much will render it tough. 

Salt butter of the best quality makes 
a fine flaky crust ; for sweet things, wash 
it. In making pie-crust lard is. however, 
better than butter ; and in making the 
paste it is sometimes mixed with the 
flour in a dry state. 

Heating the oven properly is a very 
essential point in baking the various sorts 
of paste to be here enumerated. 

Raised pies must be put into a quick 
oven, or the crust will fall. The cook 
should accurately know the proper heat 
for each article, as opening the door to 
observe their progress lets in the air, and 
often spoils them. They require from 
one half to a full hour more than when 
baked in a dish. 

1177.— CRUST FOE RAISED PIES. 

Boil water with a little fine lard, and 
an equal quantity of fresh dripping, or 
of butter, but not much of either. While 
hot, mix this with as much flour as you 
will want, making the paste as stiff as 
you can to be smooth, which you will 
make it by good kneading and beating it 
with the rolling-pin. When quite smooth, 
put a lump into a cloth, or under a pan, 
to soak till nearly cold. 

In raising paste it should be brought 
to a firm consistence, and of sufficient 
thickness to hold the meat together ; it 
should therefore not be too rich, and it 



is easier to be worked if moderately 
warm than cold. The proper way to 
raise the crust is by placing the left hand 
on the lump of paste, and with the right 
keep working it up the back of the hand, 
till all be of the proper shape and thick- 
ness ; a mould, or a decanter, may be 
used. When worked into the desired 
form the meat is then put into the pie^ 
and, when quite full, the lid is put on and 
fixed to the wall or side ; the top being 
ornamented with some device, also made 
of paste. Before putting it in the oven 
glaze it all over with white of egg. 

Those who have not a good hand at 
raising crust may roll the paste of a 
proper thickness, and cut out the top and 
bottom of the pie, then a long piece for 
the sides ; then cement the bottom to the 
sides with egg, bringing the former 
rather farther out, and pinching both to- 
gether ; put egg between the edges of 
the paste to make it adhere at the sides. 
Fill the pie, put on the cover, and pinch 
it and the side crust together. The 
same mode of uniting the paste is to be 
observed if the sides are pressed into a 
tin form, in which the paste must be 
baked, after it shall be filled and cov- 
ered : * the tin should be buttered, and 
carefully taken off when done enough ; 
and as the form usually makes the sides 
of a lighter color than is proper, the pie 
should be put into the oven again for one 
quarter of an hour. 

For Venison Pasty or Perigord Pie. — 
To one quarter of a peck of fine flour 
use two and a half pounds of butter and 
four eggs : mix into paste with warm 
water, and work it smooth and to a good 
consistence. Put a paste round the in- 
side, but not to the bottom of the dish ; 



* In lining a tin form, put in the sides first, hav- 
ing cut the paste rather deeper than the tin, so as to 
allow for its lying a little on the bottom, and that 
no joint may appear; then cut apiece sufficiently- 
large to cover the whole bottom. 



408 



TKE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



and let the cover be pretty thick, to bear 
the long continuance in the oven. 

1178.— PUFF PASTE FOE PATTIES OR FIRST 
C0UE8E DISHES. 

One pound of butter salt or fresh, and 
one pound of flour will make a good 
dish of patty cases, or a large case for a 
vol-au-vent, and the remainder into a 
good dish of second course pastry. 

Put your flour upon your board, work 
finely in with your hands lightly a quar- 
ter of the butter, then add water suffi- 
cient to make it the stiifness or softness 
of the remaining butter ; each should be 
the same substance ; work it up smooth, 
then roll it out longways half an inch 
thick ; place the remainder of the butter 
cut in slices half way on the paste ; dust 
flour lightly over it, and double it up, 
press it down with your rolling-pin, let 
it lie a few minutes, then roll it three 
times thinner each time, letting it lie a 
few minutes betwecs each roll, keep it 
free from sticking to the board or rolling- 
pin. This paste is ready for patty cases 
or vol-au-vent, or meat pies. 

1179.— PUFF PASTE. 

To obtain this in perfection much will 
depend on the quality of the butter 
used, and on its being rolled out or 
turned a sufficient number of times, so 
that the butter may be mixed with the 
paste in minute layers. Salt butter will 
make as good, if not better paste than 
fresh. When salt butter is used, it 
should be broken into small pieces, and 
put into a pan or pail of clean cold 
water ; well work or squeeze it between 
the hands in the water, whicli will -de- 
prive it of the greatest portion of the 
salt it contains ; take it from the water 
and put it on a cloth, and mould or work 
it well, in the same manner as you would 
a piece of paste ; when the water is all 
worked out. and the butter appears dry 
and firm, make it in a roll and put it in 



a cold place for use. Fresh butter 
should be moulded in the same manner 
as directed for salt, but it does not re- 
quire being first put into water. In 
summer a few pieces of ice may be put 
into the water with the butter, to harden 
it. 




Scales. 

Weigh one pound of butter and one 
pound of sifted flour. Take two ounces 
of the butter and rub in with the flour ; 
make a hole in the middle, in which put 
a teaspoonful of salt, and pour in suffi- 
cient cold water to make it into a paste 
of nearly the same consistence as the 
butter. This should be more particularly 
observed in summer, as the heat then 
causes the butter to become very soft 
during the rolling of the paste, and to 
break through the surface, unless the 
dough is made of considerably less con- 
sistence in the first place, in order to al- 
low for this. To each pound allow two 
eggs, well-beaten and mixed with the 
water. 

Mix the dough into a clear, smooth 
paste, without toughness, by rubbing it 
well with the heel of the right hand on 
the board until it has acquired a clear, 
smooth, shining appearance ; mould it 
into a round lump, then press all the 
moisture from the remainder "of the but- 
ter, and form it into a ball, taking care 
not to soften it ; put this upon the paste 
and press it down, then enclose it with 
the paste like an apple-dumpling ; flour 
the marble well and roll it out ; this is 
called the " first turn ; " then fold it in 
throe, and roll it out again, which will be 
a second turn ; now fold it again in the 
same manner, and put it in a cold place, 
if convenient on ice, covered with a damp 



PASTE. 



409 



cloth, until it is required to be rolled out 
for use. Experience alone can deter- 
mine when the paste has been sufficiently 
rolled. 

1180— VERT LIGHT PASTE. 

Mix the flour and water together, roll 
the paste out, and lay bits of butter 
upon it. Then beat up the white of an 
egg, and brush it all over the paste be- 
fore it is folded ; repeat this when rolling 
out, and adding the butter each time till 
the whole of the white of egg is used. 
It wUl make the paste very flaky. 

1181.— TEANSPAPvENT CRUST FOE TARTS. 
Beat an egg, till it be quite thin ; have 
ready twelve ounces of the purest, well- 
washed butter, without salt, melted with- 
out being oiled ; and when cool mix the 
egg with it, and stir it into one pound of 
fine flour well dried. Make the paste 
very thin ; line the pattypans as quickly 
as you can, and. when putting the tarts 
into the oven, brush them over with 
water, and sift sugar on them. If they 
are baked in a lightly heated oven, they 
will look beautiful. 

1182.— BRIOCHE PASTE. 
This paste is essential in many of the 
finer kinds of cookery, and, though 
rather troublesome to make, will repay 
the pains bestowed, since, with a small 
addition of sauce, it will afford an ex- 
cellent side-dish in itself, and it wUl enter 
into the composition of, and improve, all 
the more elaborate entrees. Take seven 
fresh eggs, two pounds of flour dried and 
warmed at the fire, and one pound of 
fresh butter. Take half a pound of this 
flour, and pour into the middle of it a 
dessert-spoonful of yeast, which has been 
prepared by pouring water over it, stir- 
ring it, and allowing it to stand to settle, 
and then draining the water off. It is 
the sediment which must be employed. 
Pour a Uttle warm water over the yeast, 



and mix the paste up with it, which 
forms the leaven ; flour the pan, lay the 
leaven in it before the fire to rise, and 
slit it on the top. As soon as the paste 
has risen, proceed thus : — Make a hole ia 
the middle of the remaining flour, put 
into it a little salt, about a saltspoonful, 
the same quantity of powdered sugar, 
to take off" any bitter taste in the yeast, 
and a little water to melt it ; the butter 
broken into small pieces, and the eggs : 
work it all well together, and knead it 
thoroughly, spreading it out and working 
it well : then spread it out entirely, and 
lay the yeast or leavened paste all over 
it, taking the greatest care in kneading 
and shifting the paste about to mix both 
well together. When completed, flour a 
towel, wrap the paste up in it. and put it 
into a pan ; if in cold weather in a warm 
situation, and if in hot weather in a cold 
one. It is best made a day before it is 
wanted. Very minute pieces, shaped in 
any way, add greatly to the excellence 
of soup, to be boiled with it, or stewed 
in the gravy of a vol-au-vent^ and strewed 
over the top. It is cut into shapes also, 
and fried as the accompaniment of brais- 
ed dishes of every kind. It is an ex- 
quisite case for lobster and other patties, 
or, brushed over with egg, may be fried 
in shapes for a side-dish : or it may be 
boiled in cups, six in a dish, and served 
up with asparagus cut small and heaped 
upon the top, and a white sauce round. 
In fact, a clever cook, by employing dif- 
ferent flavoring ingredients, either sweet 
or savory, may make endless dishes of 
brioche. It should not, however, predom- 
inate ; and, therefore, it is best only to 
make a small quantity at a time, where 
the consumption of the family is not great. 
It will not heep long. 

1183.— MEAT PIES, PATTIES, &o. 

There are few articles of cookery more 
generally liked than relishing pies, if 



410 



THE PRACTICAL HOITSEKEEPEK. 



properly made ; and they may be formed 
of a great variety of things. 

Eaised Pies may be made of any kind 
of flesh, fish, fruit, or poultry, if baked in 
a wall of paste instead of a baking-dish ; 
but they are generally eaten cold, and 
made so large and savory as to remain a 
long time before being consumed, for which 
reason they also bear the name of 
"standing pies." In making them, the 
cook should always take care to have a 
good stock that will jelly, made from the 
bones and trimmings, to fill up the pie 
when it comes from the oven, and also 
that when cold there may be enough 
jelly. For want of this precaution pies 
become dry before they can be eaten. 
The materials are of course frequently 
varied, but the mode of preparation is so 
nearly the same as not to require the re- 
cital of more than a few prominent re- 
ceipts. 

1184.— SEASONING FOE PvAISED PIES. 
Three pounds of salt dried and pound- 
ed, three ounces of white pepper, half 
an ounce of cayenne pepper, two ounces 
of cloves, two ounces of allspice, one 
ounce of basil, one ounce of marjoram, 
one ounce of thyme, one ounce of bay- 
leaf one ounce of nutmeg, one ounce and 
a half of mace. 

Pound the spices and herbs by them- 
selves and sift through a fine sieve ; then 
mix with the salt, and put away in a 
stoppered bottle : three-quarters of an 
ounce is sufficient for one pound of farce, 
and half an ounce for one pound of boned 
game. 

1185.— JELLY FOE MEAT OE RAISED PIES. 
Take a quart of veal gravy, dissolve 
two ounces of isinglass in a little of it ; 
add the remaindei' with a quarter of a 
pint of tarragon vinegar ; boil all together 
for a quarter of an hour. Clarify it with 
the whites of six eggs, then pass it 
through a bag. 



1186.— PIE EAISED HOT, EU8SIAN. 

Take a salmon and a liver, cut them 
into scollops, and simmer both, but sep- 
arately, in some butter, with shred 
parsley, nnishrooms, truffles, shalots, 
salt, pepper, nutmeg ; mince the yolks of 
a dozen hard eggs. Make a raised crust 
in the usual manner, put in a layer of 
rice previously boiled in chicken broth, 
but cold, as should be all the materials ; 
on this lay some of the scollops of sal- 
mon, on which strew a layer of egg, then 
a layer of liver, strew the egg, then the 
salmon again, and so on till your pie is 
full ; then pour in the butter and herbs, 
cover the whole with rice, and finish the 
pie according to the above du'ections. 

1187.— PIE EAISED, TO BE SERVED HOT. 

Make a stiff" paste as directed for raised 
pics, which mis with warm water ; when 
well mixed together roll it out thin, cut 
a piece out for the bottom and two for 
the sides, according to the shape of the 
dish ; egg the edges you intend to join, 
and press them well together, so that the 
joining may not be seen ; shape it, gar- 
nish it with leaves or festoons, according 
to your taste, fill it nearly to the top 
with bran, egg it, and let it be baked in 
a moderate oven ; when done of a ligi:.t 
color turn out the bran, and set it ready 
for what jow intend to put in, which may 
be cutlets of mutton stewed with vege- 
tables, partridge farced with a brown 
sauce, chickens cut up, a ragout in a 
brown sauce, or stewed eels. 

1188. -RAISED PIE OF FOWLS. (Soyer.) 

Make the paste and forcemeat, bone a 
young fowl, which lay flat upon a clean 
cloth, breast downwards ; season the in- 
terior with a little pepper, salt, and chop- 
ped onions ; spread a layer of forcemeat 
over, half an inch in thickness ; have ten 
pieces of veal, of the thickness of j^our 
finger, and the same length as the fowl, 



lEAT PIES. 



411 



and the .same number of pieces of fat 
bacon, lay half of the veal and bacon al- 
ternately upon the fowl, well seasoned 
with pepper and salt, cover over with 
more forcemeat, then another layer of 
veal and ham, cover with more forcemeat ; 
then roll the fowl over, making the skin 
meet at the back ; you have previously 
lined a raised pie mould with paste, then 
line the pie with forcemeat, half an inch 
in thickness, lay in the fowl, sprinkle a 
little pepper and salt over, cover with 
the remainder of the forcemeat, to form 
a dome, place a pat of butter and two 
bay-leaves upon the top, and bake ; 
when done, pour in a gill of gravy made 
from the bones of the fowl ; serve cold. 

1189.— RAISED PIE OF PHEASAITT. 

Proceed precisely as for the pie of fowl, 
but of course using a pheasant ; an old 
one would answer the purpose if kept 
long enough, but all the sinews of the 
legs must be taken out in boning it ; the 
fillets of the breast also, being very thick, 
may be partly" cut out and used with the 
veal for the interior ; if in a situation to 
obtain rabbits, the fillets of them might 
be used instead of veal for the interior, 
and the legs for forcemeat. 

For gravy, break up the bones of the 
birds, which put into a stewpan with a 
glass of sherry, an onion, a few sprigs of 
thyme, parsley, and a bay-leaf; let it 
simmer a minute over the fire, then add 
a pint of broth and a little isinglass or 
gelatine, let the whole silnmer for an 
hour, giving it a nice brown color, when 
pass it through a sieve into a small stew- 
pan, place it again upon the fire, skim off 
all the fat, and reduce it to half a pint, 
and when the pie is baked, pour it in, 
shaking the pie a little to mix well; 
serve When cold. 

Pies of grouse, partridges, moor fowls, 
&c., are made precisely in the same man- 
ner, using one or more according to the j 



size you wish to make your pie. The 
fillets of hares are likewise excellent in 
pies, whilst the legs might be jugged or 
converted into soup. 

Capons, poulards, green geese, or duck- 
lings, may also be served in a pie, (pro- 
ceeding as directed for fowls), by manag- 
ing the size of the pie, and seasoning in 
proportion.' 

Pigeon pie can also be made in the 
same way, but then the meat with which 
the interior of the birds are filled must 
be cut much smaller, and requires less 
time in cooking. 

1190.— HOT LAMB PIE ^[raised.) 

To make this an oval, a tin or copper 
pie mould would be required, which you 
would choose of a size most generally 
useful. Butter the interior of the 
mould, which stand upon a baking sheet, 
then make the following paste : put a 
quarter of a pound of butter and the 
same of chopped suet into a stewpan, 
with three-quarters of a pint of water, 
or more if required, and let the whole 
boil together one minute, when strain it 
through a sieve into a basin containing 
two pounds of flour, mixing it first with 
a spoon, and when cool enough with the 
hand, until forming a smooth paste ; 
when partly cold roll it out into a sheet 
half an inch in thickness, with which line 
the mould, pressing the paste evenly at 
all parts ; have ready cut sufiicient small 
lamb chops from the loin, neatly cut 
away the bones, and lay them round the 
interior of the pie alternately with slices 
of raw potatoes (a quarter of an inch in 
thickness), season rather highly as you 
proceed, with pepper, salt, chopped on- 
ions, and parsley: make a neat cover 
with the trimmings of the paste, and 
bake it rather 'better than two hours in 
a moderate oven; when -done lift the 
cover, pour out as much of the fat as 
possible, add a little gravy, and serve. 



412 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



1191.— OTHER VARIOUS PIES. 
Hot raised pies may also be made with 
mutton by following the above directions. 
They are also very good made with fillet 
of leef cut into thin slices of the size of 
the lamb chops, or of rmni} steals^ by 
laying a piece at the bottom, seasoning 
and filhng alternately with potatoes and 
the meat ; veal and ham pies are also ex- 
cellent, but the potatoes in them had 
better be omitted, the veal, however, sea- 
soned and dipped in flour. Pies may 
also be made with veal sweetiread and 
ham, but then about three parts of a 
pint of white sauce should be poured in 
after the pie is baked, Foids or rabbits 
may likewise be cut into joints, and put 
into a stewpan, with a piece of butter, 
previously well seasoning them with 
pepper, salt, and chopped eschalots ; cover 
the stewpan close, and leave it twenty 
minutes over a slow fire, add a pint of 
white sauce, and simmer ten minutes 
longer ; when cold build them up in the 
interior of the pie, which cover and bake 
an hour in a warm oven. Pies of the 
abuve description can of course be made 
of any size, either large enough for a 
family meal, or very small and round, 
for a corner dish for a dinner party ; 
most people who are in the habit of mak- 
ing them, keep two different-sized moulds 
for the purpose. 

1192.— RUMP8TEAK PIE. 
Procure two pounds of rumpsteaks, 
which cut into slices half an inch thick, 
and season well with pepper and salt ; 
dip each piece into -flour, and lay them in 
a small pie-dish, finishing the top in the 
form of a dome ; add a wineglassful of 
water, then have ready half a pound 
of plain paste, cut off a small piece, 
which roll into a band, and lay round 
the edge of the di.sh, having previously 
wetted it with a paste-brush dipped in 
water, then roll out the remainder of the 
paste to about the size of the dish, damp 



the band of paste upon the dish, and lay 
the other piece over, make a hole with a 
knife at the top, press the edges evenly 
down with your thumbs, trim the pie 
round with a knife, egg over the top 
with a paste-brush, and ornament it with 
the trimmings of the paste, according to 
fancy ; bake it rather better than an hour 
in a moderate oven, and serve either hot 
or cold. 

1193.— VEAL AND HAM PIE. 

Cut about a pound and a half of veal 
into thin slices, as also a quarter of a 
pound of cooked ham ; season the veal 
rather highly with white pepper and 
salt, with which cover the bottom of the 
dish, then lay over a few slices of ham, 
then the remainder of the veal, finishing 
with the remainder of the ham, add a 
wine-glassful of water, and cover and 
bake as directed for beef-steak pie : a 
bay-leaf will be an improvement. 

1194— MUTTON PIE. 

Procure the chumps of three loins of 
mutton, from which cut the meat in 
moderately thin slices, put a layer at the 
bottom of the dish, which season well 
with chopped parsley, eschalots, pepper, 
and salt ; then put a layer of slices of 
raw potatoes and again a layer of mutton, 
seasoning as before, proceeding thus to 
the top, which form in a dome, finishing 
with mutton, cover with paste, and bake 
as directed for rumpsteak pie. 

1195.— pat:6 pe foils gras. 

[This receipt is famished by Mr. Del- 
M ON I CO, expressly for this work.] 

Prepare a stufiing of fresh pork, a 
pound of lean to a pound and a half of 
fat ; mince and choj) it : add your pre- 
paration of livers in the same manner as 
with truffles, seasoning the mixture with 
salt, pepper, spices, and aromatic herbs 
bruised and passed through a sieve. 
Have in readiness two fine, fat livers, 



MbAT PIES. 



413 



well cleaned. Make ready a pie of two 
and a half pounds of paste : surround 
this pie with thin slices of fat, and, in 
. the bottom, place some stuffing : season 
the livers, cover them with stuffing and 
truffles, and place them in your pie or 
dish, which fill up with stuffing and truf- 
fles, placing on the top a piece of fresh 
butter. Cover this with slices of fat 
and over it place a laurel-leaf. Moisten 
the edge of the pie and cover it with a 
crust of paste : fasten this on well, cut off 
the edges equally and crimp or decorate 
it. Make a covering of puff paste, and, 
in the middle, make a hole which is call- 
ed the chimney. Wash it over with 
eggs and let it bake in an evenly-heated 
oven, for three and a half hours. When 
cold, fill it with good meat-jelly. 

1196.— LAMB PIE. 

Cut a small neck of lamb into chops, 
which must not be too fat. season them 
lightly with pepper and salt, and lay 
them in your pie-dish, with a few new 
potatoes in slices, pour in a little water, 
then cover and bake as directed for 
rumpsteak pie. 

1197.— CHICKEN PIE. 
Cut up a nice plump chicken into 
joints, which lay upon a dish, and season 
lightly with chopped parsley, white pep- 
per, and salt, then lay the back, cut into 
three pieces, at the bottom of a pie-dish 
with the two legs on either side; have 
half a pound of cooked ham or bacon in 
slices, a layer of which cover over, then 
lay in the two wings, and over them the 
breast, cut into two pieces, which, with 
the remainder of the ham or bacon, form 
into a dome in the middle, pour half a 
pint of white sauce over, if handy, or a 
little broth or water, cover with paste, 
and bake as directed for the last. If no 
white sauce, dip each piece lightly in 
flour. 

1198.— GIBLET PIE. 

When the giblets have been taken 



from the goose, place them with the ex- 
ception of the liver, but with the pinions, 
feet, head, and neck, into boiling water 
to blanch ; remove the skm from the 
feet and beak ; put into a stewpan a piece 
of butter the size of a walnut, one onion 
cut in slices, a bay-leaf, a little salt, 
pepper, and sugar : place it on the fire 
until the onion is brown; place in the 
giblets with the head cut in two, let them 
remain on the fire for about three minutes, 
stirring them round, then add one quart 
of boiling water, and let them stew gent- 
ly for two hours, remove from the fire, 
and let them get cold. Take a pie-dish 
and place a piece of steak on the bottom, 
then place over that the giblets with the 
liver, and steak again over them, add the 
liquor the giblets were stewed in, season 
and cover with half pufi" paste. 

1199.— PvABBIT PIE. 

Cut a nice rabbit into joints, splitting 
the head in halves, and lay them in luke- 
warm water half an hour to disgorge, 
then dry them upon a cloth, season well 
with pepper, salt, chopped eshalots, pars- 
ley, two bay-leaves, and a spoonful of 
flour ; have also three-quarters of a pound 
of uncooked streaked bacon, cut into 
square pieces the size of walnuts, build 
up the pieces of rabbit and bacon to- 
gether, in a pie dish, commencing with 
the worst pieces, and forming a dome ; 
pour in a little water, cover with jjaste, 
and bake as directed for rumpsteak pie. 

1200.— PIGEON PIE. 

Line the bottom of a pie-dish with a 
pound of rumpsteak, cut into slices not 
too thin, seasoned with a Httle salt, 
pepper, and cayenne, and dipped into 
flour ; have ready picked and drawn a 
couple of pigeons, cut oS" the feet, turn 
the legs in, fold up the pinions of the 
wings, and lay them breast to breast upon 
the meat, have the yolks of four hard 
boiled eggs, which put at the sides. 



414 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



sprinkle a little pepper and salt over the 
pigeons, lay a bay-leaf upon the top, pour 
in a little water, cover with paste, stick 
the feet in the top, and bake as dii-ected 
for the last. The pigeons may be stuffed 
with a little veal stuffing, if handy. 

1201— PAKTEIDGE PIE. 

Line the bottom of a pie-dish with 
slices of veal, cut moderately thick, and 
rather lightly seasoned with white 
pepper and salt ; have ready picked, 
drawn, and trussed, a couple of young 
partridges, pour one glass of sherry over 
the veal, one of water, and lay in the 
partridges breast to breast, laying a piece 
of fat bacon over each, cover with paste, 
sticking the feet of the partridges in the 
top of the pie, and bake as before. 

1202.— GEOUSE PIE. 

Roast, very underdone, a couple of nice 
plump grouse ; when cold, cut into joints, 
having the two wings, two legs, and the 
breasts in two pieces each, season them 
lightly, and lay them in a pie-dish, build- 
ing them to form a dome, then break up 
the back-bone and other trimmings, which 
put into a stewpan, with a glass of sherry, 
a bay-leaf, an onion in slices, a few sprigs 
of parsley, three or four whole allspice, 
set the stewpan over the fire a few min- 
utes until the wine boils, when add half 
a pint of brown sauce, and half a pint of 
broth, stir it over a fire until again re- 
duced to half a pint, strain it through a 
sieve, over the grouse ; when quite cold 
cover with paste, as directed for rump- 
steak pie, and bake in a very hot oven ; 
about half an hour would be sufficient, 
as the paste requires to be laid on thinner, 
the contents of the pie having been pre- 
viously cooked. 

1208.— POT PIE. 

Two pounds of veal meat, two pounds 
of flour, one-quarter of a pound of lard 



or butter, half a dozen potatoes, one- 
quarter of a pound of pickled pork, cut 
into small pieces. Make the paste very 
soft, and roll it very thin ; put in the po- 
tatoes and meat, then the paste, layer 
after layer, with cold water enough to 
cover it ; boil it half an hour slowly. 

1204.— EEL PIE. 

Skin and cleanse three good-sized 
eels, which cut into pieces about two 
inches in length, put a good-sized bunch 
of parsley, thyme, and three bay-leaves, 
all tied together, into a stewpan, with 
an onion, into which you have stuck four 
cloves, a glass of port-wine, and a pint of 
broth, lay in the pieces of eels, and set 
them upon the fire to simmer for ten 
minutes, take them out, laying them upon 
a cloth to drain, skim off all the fat from 
the stock the eels were cooked in, to 
which add rather more than half a pint 
of brown sauce, let the whole boil until 
reduced to three parts of a pint, when 
dress the pieces of eels up in a pie-dish, 
strain the sauce over through a sieve, 
and when cold, cover with paste, as di- 
rected for rumpsteak pie, and bake about 
an hour in a moderate oven ; serve it hot. 
If for a small pie they may be used raw, 
and season accordingly, after having roll- 
ed each piece in flour. 

1205.— BEEFSTEAK PUDDING. 

Put a pound of flour upon a dresser, 
with which mix half a pound of beef 
suet, very finely chopped, make a hole in 
the middle, into which put a teaspoonful 
of salt, and sufficient water to form a 
rather stiflBsh paste, mix it well together, 
using a little more flour to dry it and 
prevent its sticking ; then lightl}^ butter 
the interior of a round-bottomed pudding 
basin, roll out two-thirds of the paste to 
half an inch in thickness, with which line 
the basin ; have ready cut into slices, 
about the size of the palm of the hand, 



and a quarter of an inch in thickness, 
two pounds of rumpsteak with a little of 
the fat included ; lay them upon a dish, 
season with two teaspoonfuls of salt 
and one of black pepper, sprinkle a little 
flour over, move them about a little un- 
til each piece is well covered with flour 
and seasoning ; then lay them within the 
paste, also putting in whatever seasoning 
may remain upon the dish, (some add 
two dozen of oysters, blanched and 
bearded, which is excellent,) pour a gill 
of water over, moistening the edges of 
the paste ; then roll out the remainder of 
the paste to form a lid, which place over, 
pressing it down with the thumb, then 
tie the basin in a pudding-cloth, and put 
into a saucepan, containing about a gallon 
of boiling water, and keep continually 
boiling for nearly two hours, adding a 
little more water occasionally to keep 
up the quantity ; then take it up, untie 
the cloth, run a sharp-pointed knife into 
the pudding, and if the meat feels tender 
it is done (if not, it will require more 
boiling), turn it over upon your dish, lift 
the basin carefully from it, and serve, 
without opening the pudding to add 
gravy, as many persons do, for a pudding 
made as above ought to be full of gravy 
when cut at table. 

1206.— MUTTON PUDDING. 

Line a pudding-basin with paste, as 
directed in the last ; then have ready cut 
into slices the meat from two loin-chumps 
of mutton, which lay upon a dish, and 
season with a teaspoonful of chopped 
onions, the same of chopped parsley, 
rather more than half that quantity of 
black pepper, and salt in proportion ; 
then put a layer of meat into the pudding, 
then a layer of raw potatoes cut into 
slices ; proceeding thus until you have 
filled it up, but finishing with meat, 
cover it up as in the last, likewise tie it 
in a napkin, and boil, but rather better 



than two hours would be suflBcient ; serve 
as before directed. 

1207.— LAMB PUDDING. 

If convenient, procure the entire ribs 
of a lamb, sawing off the breast almost 
close to the lean part of the neck ; 
the breast may be cooked ; cut the 
neck into rather thin cutlets, which 
season lightly with white pepper, salt, 
and a little chopped parsley and onions ; 
you have previously lined a puddiug- 
basin with paste as before, fill it with 
the meat thus prepared, intermixing 
a few new potatoes cut in slices, finish 
the pudding, boil, and serve as before di- 
rected. 

1208.— VEAIi PUDDING. 

Cut two pounds of veal from any part 
of the leg into slices, about the size of 
the palm of the hand, and a quarter of 
an inch in thickness, put two ounces of 
butter into a frying-pan, and when melt- 
ed lay in the veal, and a few slices of 
streaked bacon, season the whole with 
pepper and a little salt, add one bay-leaf, 
and a few sprigs of thyme ; place the 
pan over a slow fire, saute the veal gent- 
ly for a quarter of an hour ; then take it 
from the fire, and leave it in the pan un- 
til cold, then have a pudding-basin lined 
with paste as before, lay in the veal and 
bacon, pouring the gravy over, cover, and 
boil as before, but an hour would be suf- 
ficient. 

1209.— PORK PUDDING. 

Line a pudding-basin with paste as be- 
fore, and spread three-quarters of a 
pound of sausage-meat of an equal thick- 
ness over the interior, have a pound and 
a half of lean pork, from the leg if pos- 
sible, cut into square pieces of the size 
of walnuts, which season rather highly 
with pepper, salt, a teaspoonful of chopped 
eschalots, and half that quantity of dried 



416 



THE PKACTICAI. HOUSEKEEPER. 



Bage ; put the meat into the centre of the 
pudding, cover over with a quarter of a 
pound more sausage-meat, over which 
put on the cover of paste, tie it in a 
cloth, and boil two hours and a half, as 
directed for beefsteak pudding. 

1210.— KIDNEY PUDDING. 

Procure one ox or eight mutton kid- 
neys, which cut into slices the thickness 
of half-a-crown piece ; lay them upon a 
dish, seasoning well with black pepper 
and salt, and shaking one ounce of flour 
over ; mix all well together, to absorb 
the flour and seasoning ; then have a 
pudding-basin, lined as directed for beef- 
steak pudding, finish, boil, and serve as 
there directed. 

A pudding made with one pound of 
steak and a beef kidney is also very ex- 
cellent. 

1211.— EABBIT PUDDING. 

Cut a rabbit up in joints, (splitting the 
head in halves,) and lay them in a basin 
of lukewarm water an hour to disgorge ; 
line a pudding-basin with paste as di- 
rected for rumpsteak pudding, dry the 
pieces of rabbit upon a cloth, and lay 
them in the pudding with half a pound 
of streaked bacon cut into square pieces, 
and seasoning rather highly with chopped 
eschalots, salt, pepper, and chopped pars- 
ley ; cover, tie it in a cloth, boil it two 
hours, and serve as before directed. 

1212.— OTSTEE PLE. 

As you open the oysters separate 
them from the liquor, which strain ; par- 
boil sweetbreads, and, cutting them in 
slices, lay them and the oysters in layers ; 
season very lightly with salt, pepper, and 
mace ; then put half a teacupful of 
liquor, and the same of veal gravy. 
Bake in a slow oven ; and before you 
serve, put a teacupful of cream, a little 
more oyster-liquor, and a cup of white 
gravy, all warmed, but not boiled. 



1218.— OTSTEE PIE. (English way.) 

Lay a tender beefsteak in the bottom 
of a dish and on it oysters and bread 
crumbs, with pepper and salt. Fill the 
dish with layers of beafsteak and oys- 
ters ; pour over it the liquor of the oys- 
ter, cover with a light paste and bake 
twenty minutes in a quick oven. 

1214— TOEKSHIEE PUDDING. 

Put six tablespoonfuls of flour into a 
basin, with six eggs, a pinch of salt, and 
a quarter of a pint of milk, mix well to- 
gether with a wooden spoon, adding the 
remaining three-quarters of a pint of 
milk by degrees ; you have previously 
set a shallow tin dish under a piece of 
roasting beef before the fire ; an hour 
before serving pour in the batter, leaving 
it under the meat until quite set and 
rather browned upon the top, when turn 
the pudding over upon the dish you in- 
tend serving it upon, and again place it 
before the fire until the other side is 
rather browned, when it is ready to serve 
with the meat. 

This pudding is very excellent baked 
under a small piece of beef of about five 
or six pounds. It is also frequently 
baked beneath a shoulder of mutton ; 
and sometimes in an oven separate, if the 
fire is not large enough, (with a few 
spoonfuls of gravy added). 

1215.— TOAD IN A HOLE. 

Make a batter as directed for the 
Yorkshire pudding, but with the addition 
of a spoonful more flour and six ounces 
of chopped beef suet ; butter a rather 
deep baking-dish, into which pour the 
batter, lay a solid piece of lean gravy 
beef about three pounds, in the centre, 
or a beef skirt, and bake it an hour and 
a half in a hot oven. 

Another method is to cut up about 
three pounds of rumpsteaks into about 
six pieces, and putting them in the bat- 



MEAT PIES. 



417 



ter at various distances apart, but the 
former method is most common. 

Any remains of cooked beef, veal, mut- 
ton, pork, roasted or boiled, salt or fresh, 
or gan:,e and fowl, cut in pieces, and sea- 
soned to taste, may be used in this dish, 
by adding it to the batter when in the 
dish. 

1216.— FISH PUDDING. 
Cut a slioe of salmon half an inch 
thick, and weighing about one pound ; 
remove the skin and bone, mix a salt- 
spoonful of salt, half one of pepper, one 
of finely chopped onions and parsley, and 
a spoonful of flour in a plate, and rub 
the fish with it ; make half a pound of 
flour into paste, roll it half an inch thick, 
place a .pudding-cloth in a middle-size 
basin, flour the cloth, lay the paste in it, 
place in the salmon with a little water 
and white wine, and a bay-leaf, bring the 
paste over so that the edges meet in the 
middle, having reserved a small piece 
which you have rolled out to place over 
the joint, after having wetted it. Tie the 
cloth, but not too tight, round the paste ; 
place it in a gallon of boiling water, let 
it simmer for one hour and a half, take 
it out, remove the cloth, and serve it 
with shrimp sauce over or separate. 
Fillets of soles, mackerel, turbot, or 
other fish, may be used. 

121T.— VEAL PIE IN A DISH. 

First of all get all your ingredients 
ready, namely, hop, parsley, shalots, or 
onions, mushrooms, pepper and salt, 
mint, four eggs boiled hard, a little good 
second stock, now your paste. After 
you have made patties or any first or 
second course pastry, the paste that re- 
mains will do, be sure to put an edging 
of paste to your dish ; first lay a layer 
of lean and fat ham, or mild bacon, then 
sprinkle it over with the prepared in- 
gredients, then a layer of veal, and 
part of an egg, then another layer of 



ham and parsnips as before, and keep on 
repeating it until quite full, letting the 
middle be much higher than the sides ; 
put a little drop of second stock into it, 
bake it in a slow oven ; be sure and cut 
a hole in the top, and if you like orna- 
ment it with leaves of paste ; after egg- 
ing the top, well notch the edge. Pour 
some good white stock into it when done 
and hot. 

1218.— BEEFSTEAK PIE. 

Take some good steaks, beat them 
with a rolling-pin, season them with pep- 
per and salt ; fill a dish with them, add- 
ing as much water as will half fill it, 
then cover it with a good crust, and bake 
it well. 

1219.— COLD VEAL OE CHICKEN PIE. 

Lay a crust into a shallow tart dish, 
and fill it with the following mixture : — 
shred cold veal or fowl, and half the 
quantity of ham, mostly lean, put to it 
a little cream, season with white and 
cayenne pepper, salt, a little nutmeg, and 
a small piece of shalot, chopped as fine 
as possible : cover with crust, and turn 
it out of the dish when baked, or bake 
the crust with a piece of bread to keep 
it hollow, and warm the mince with a 
little cream, and pour in. 

1220.— CALF'S HEAD PIE. 

Stew a knuckle of veal till fit for eat- 
ing with two onions, a little isinglass, a 
fagot of sweet herbs, a blade of mace, 
and a few peppercorns in three pints of 
water ; keep the broth for the pie. Take 
off" a little of the meat for forcemeat 
balls, and let them be used for the family, 
but boil the bones until the broth is very 
good : half boil the head, and cut it into 
square pieces ; put a layer of ham at the 
bottom of them, some head, first fat then 
lean, with forcemeat balls, and hard- 
boiled eggs cut in half, and so on till the 
dish is full, but be careful not to place 
the pieces close together or the pie will 



418 



THE PEACTICAIi HOUSEKEEPER. 



be too solid, and there will be no space 
for the jelly. The meat must be first 
pretty well seasoned with pepper and 
salt, and a Utile nutmeg ; put a little 
water and a little stock into the dish, 
and cover it with a thickish crust, bake 
it in a slow oven, and when done, pour 
into it as much gravy as it will possibly 
hold, and do not cut it till perfectly cold, 
in doing which use a very sharp knife, 
and first cut out a large slice, going down 
to the bottom of the dish, and when done 
thus thinner slices can be cut. The dif- 
ferent colors and the clear jelly have a 
beautiful appearance. 

1221.— DUCK PIE. 

Bone a full-grown young duck and a 
fowl, wash them and season with pepper 
and salt, a little allspice and mace pound- 
ed ; put the fowl within the duck, and 
on the former a calf's tongue pickled red. 
boiled very tender and peeled, press the 
whole close, the skins of the legs should 
be drawn inward, that the body of the 
fowl may be quite smooth ; if approved, 
the space between the sides of the crust 
may be filled with a fine forcemeat. Bake 
it in a slow oven, either in a dish or 
raised pie-crust, ornamented. 

1222.— FISH PIE. 

This pie may be made of any fish, sal- 
mon, pike, eel, or any other. Scale your 
fish and cut it into pieces, line your pie- 
dish with a good crust, put in the fish 
with a bunch of sweet herbs, a little 
salt, some bruised spices, and a layer of 
butter on the top, put on the crust and 
bake for an hour and a half; when done 
remove the fat and put in a vegetable 
ragout made thus : — Stir a little butter 
and flour over the fire until a pale brown, 
moisten with half a pint of sherry, some 
soup maigre, add a few mushrooms, a 
httle salt, and a bunch of herbs ; let it 
bo)l half an hour, and then put the ra- 



goftt into the pies. Any vegetable i-a- 
goilt may be used. 

1223.-GAME PIE. 

Cut up your game, and use truffles and 
whole mushrooms if you have them ; 
the seasonings as before, but no hard- 
boiled eggs, and add a little port wine 
with your gravy or stock If you take 
the bones from the birds or hare, use 
some forcemeat as layers instead as in 
former pies, veal and steaks, but no eggs ; 
if boned you will prepare a good stock 
from the bones, making the pie taste of 
the very essence of the game, or poultry, 
or whatever it may consist of. 

1224— SNIPE PIE. 

Bone three snipes, fill them' with a 
hght forcemeat, adding the trails and 
some truffles pounded, put the birds in a 
deep dish, with a small laj'er of force- 
meat all round ; cover with a pufF-paste, 
egg it, ornament it to fancy, and put it 
into the oven. When about three parts 
done, lift up the lid, pour in some good 
cullis, a glass and a half of Madeira. 
Season with cayenne pepper and lemon- 
juice, cover down, atid finish baking. 

1225.— GEEEN GOOSE PEE. 

Bone two young green geese of a good 
size, but first take away every plug and 
singe them nicely, wash them clean, and 
season them high with salt, pepper, mace, 
and allspice. Put one inside the other 
and press them as close as you can, 
drawing the legs inwards ; put a good 
deal of butter over them, and bake them 
either with or without crust; if with 
the latter a cover to the dish must fit 
close to keep in the steam, it will keep 
long. Gravy jellied may be added when 
served. 

MACKENZIE'S PERIOOED PIE. 
Take six partridges and tie their legs 



BAY OK Y PIES. 



419 



like chickens to be boiled ; season them I 
with pepper, salt, cloves, and beaten 
mace. Put two pounds lean veal, and 
one pound of fat bacon cut into small 
bits, in a stew pan with half a pound of 
butter, shalots, chopped herbs, and sea- 
soning ; stew till tender ; strain and 
pound the meat in a mortar ; mix the pulp 
with some of the liquor ; put this force- 
meat around and over the partridges in a 
raised pie, and lay over thin slices of 
bacon. Cover with paste ; bake three 
hours in a moderate oven. 

Worcester sauce, good with savory 
pies, is said to be made on a basis of 
good walnut ketchup with additional 
spices. 

1227.— HARE PIE. 

Season the hare after it is cut up, in 
the same manner as if to be jugged ; 
and bake it, with eggs, and forcemeat 
partly made of the liver, in a raised crust 
or dish. When it is to be served, raise 
the lid, and, if in a crust, cover it with 
jelly ; but, if made in a dish, with warm 
gravy, mixed with a large glassful of 
port wine. 

122S.— TIPPEEAKY CURKY (an excellent Picnic 
Dish). 

Boil four chickens, and stuff two of 
them when cold with a forcemeat made 
of crumbs of bread, a few slices of ham 
or tongue, sweet herbs, and a shalot well 
pounded and mixed with the yolk of an 
egg. Stuff the other two with boiled 
rice, lay them in a mould or dish, with 
eight hard-boiled eggs cut in half, a few 
mushrooms, a little pickled lemon, cut in 
thin rings. Pour over the chickens a 
gravy made as follows : — Fry an onion 
in a little butter, add a table-spoonful of 
curry-powder, one of vinegar, one of 
mushroom-ketchup, a little salt, and a 
little more than a pint of good veal broth ; 
if the broth does not jelly, isinglass must 
be put into it to make it do so. When 



cold turn it out on a dish. It is a great 
improvement to bone the chickens, the 
bones helping to make the gravy. 

1229.— FRENCH PIE. 

Make a raised crust upon a buttered 
tin, and brush it with yolk of egg ; cover 
the bottom with forcemeat, then fill 
up the pie with sweetbread cut into 
small pieces, oysters, hard eggs, legs of 
chicken, turkey, or rabbit, boned ; arti- 
choke-bottoms in small pieces, asparagus- 
tops, forcemeat-balls, and mushrooms, 
taking care to lay them regularlj-, and to 
season the whole lightly and evenly : 
bake it in a moderate oven. When it is 
done pour in some strong gravy and 
cream thickened with flour and butter. 

Sausage-meat may be mixed with the 
forcemeat, and in winter truffles sub- 
stituted for the vegetables ; the seasoning 
should be of mace, cloves, and cayenne 
pepper. 

1230.— VEGETABLE PIE. 

Scald and blanch some broad beans ; 
cut young carrots, turnips, artichoke- 
bottoms, mushrooms, onions, lettuces, 
parsley, celery, and add peas ; or use any 
of them you may have. Make them into 
a nice stew, with a little good veal gravy ; 
season with pepper and salt ; bake a 
crust over a dish, with a little lining 
round the edge. When baked, pour the 
stew into the dish, and lay the crust over 
it. Winter vegetables may be used m 
the same way, and a cup of cream is a 
great improvement. 

1231.— COLD PIES. 

When meat pies are prepared to be 
eaten colil^ suet should not be put into 
the forcemeat that is used with them. 
If the pie is made of meat that will take 
more dressing, to make it extremely ten- 
der, than the baking of the crust will 
allow, prepare it in the following way : — 
Take three pounds of the veiny piece of 



420 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



beef that has fat and lean ; wash it, and 
season it with salt, pepper, mace, and all- 
spice, in fine powder, rubbing them well 
Jn. Set it by the side of a slow fire, in a 
stewpot that will just hold it ; put to it 
a piece of butter of about the weight of 
two ounces, and cover it quite close ; let 
it just simmer in its own steam till it be- 
gins to shrink. When it is cold, add 
more seasoning, forcemeat, and eggs : if 
it is made in a dish, put some gravy to it 
before baking ; but if it is only in crust, 
do not put the gravy till after it is cold 
and in jelly. Forcemeat may be put both 
under and over the meat, if preferred to 
balls. 

1232.— VEAL AND SWEETBEEAD PIE; 
Out the veal from the chump end of 
the loin ; season it well ; clean and 
blanch a sweetbread, cut it into pieces, 
and season it ; lay both in the dish with 
the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs and a 
pint of oysters. Strain the oyster liquor, 
add to it a pint of good gravy ; line the 
sides of the dish with a puff paste half 
an inch thick, and cover it with a lid of 
the same. Bake it in a quick oven for 
an hour and a quarter ; and when it 
is sent to table cut the lid into eight or 
ten pieces, and stick them round the 
sides, covering the meat with slices of 
lemon. 

1233.— VEAL AND SAUSAGE PIE. 
Cover a shallow dish with paste, lay a 
well-beaten veal cutlet at the bottom, 
slightly seasoned ; cover it with a Bo- 
logna sausage freed from the skin and 
cut into slices ; then add another cutlet 
and a layer of the Bologna sausage ; 
cover the whole with paste, and put no 
water to it : the veal will give out suflB- 
cient gravy, while it will be rendered 
very savory by the sausage. It is ex- 
cellent eaten cold. 

1284.— VEAL AND OYSTER PIE. 

Make a seasoning of pepper, salt, and 



a small quantity of grated lemon-peel* 
Cut some veal-cutlets, and beat them 
until they are tender : spread over them 
a layer of pounded ham, and roll them 
round ; then cover them with oysters, 
and put another layer of the veal fillets, 
and oysters on the top. Make a gravy 
of the bones and trimmings, or with a 
lump of butter, onion, a little flour and 
water ; stew the oyster liquor, and put 
to it, and fill up the dish, reserving a por- 
tion to put into the pie when it comes 
from the oven. 

1235.— EXCELLENT PORK PIES TO EAT 
COLD. 

Raise the crust according to the direc- 
tions already given, into either a round 
or oval form, as you choose ; have ready 
the trimmings and small bits of pork cut 
off when a hog is killed; and if these 
are not enough, take the meat ofi* a blade- 
bone. Beat it well with a rolling-pin, 
cut it into dice, season with pepper and 
salt, and keep the fat and lean separate. 
Put it in layers, quite close up to the 
top ; lay on the lid ; cut the edge smooth 
round, and pinch it ; bake in a slow soak- 
ing oven, as the meat is very solid. The 
pork may be put into a common dish, 
with a very plain crust, and be quite as 
good. Observe to put no bone or water 
into pork pie : the outside of the pieces 
will be hard unless they are cut small 
and pressed close. 

Both these and veal and chicken pies 
are generally eaten cold, and, as they are 
always seasoned highly, will keep good 
for several days in the hottest weather. 
In England it is not uncommon to take 
off the cover and fill the pie up, when 
cold, with clouted cream, which is a very 
delicious addition. 

1236.— CALF'S-HEAD OR CALF'S-FOOT PIE. 

Either must be well stewed before 
being put into the pie. They must be 
cut into nice pieces, free from bone, and 



8AV0KT PIES. 



421 



well seasoned, or otherwise they will be 
tasteless. If to be eaten hot, sausage- 
meat or fresh mushrooms or oysters will 
be an improvement, in addition to the 
ham, eggs, and forcemeat balls ; and if 
cold, the smaJl pickled mushrooms should 
be added, or a Uttle mushroom powder 
in the gravy. The excellence of the pie 
will chiefly depend upon the seasoning 
and flavor, and the quantity of fine 
savory jelly which it will contain ; and 
therefore the meat should not be closely 
packed, in order to leave room for the 

jelly. 

1287.— CALF'S-FOOT AND KIDNEY PIE. 

Take from a cold roasted loin of veal 
slices of the kidney fat, cover them with 
pounded ham, and put them into a dish 
with the kidney cut into pieces, and the 
meat from a calf's foot ; put in a few hard- 
boiled eggs and forcemeat balls, made 
very savory with oysters, an anchovy, 
and the fat of bacon, as this pie should 
be eaten cold. Put the juice of a half 
a lemon, or a spoonful of Harvey sauce, 
into a gravy. Sweetbread may be em- 
ployed instead of kidney. 

1238.— BEEF-STEAK AND OTSTEK PIE. 

Prepare the steaks as above, and put 
layers of them and of oysters. Stew 
the liquor and beards of the latter with 
a bit of lemon-peel, mace, and a table- 
spoonful of walnut ketchup. When the 
pie is baked, boil with the above three 
spoonfuls of cream, and one ounce of but- 
ter rubbed in flour ; to which, however, 
many people object as injuring the savor- 
iness of the pie ; in which case, should 
any addition be required, a few spoon- 
fuls of beef gravy and port wine will an- 
swer the purpose. Strain it, and pour 
it into the dish : for a small pie a dozen 
large oysters will be sufficient, and 
the pie may be baked in a couple of 
hours. 

27 



1289.— MARROW PATTIES. 

Make a paste with four ounces of sweet 
almonds blanched, moistening them with 
orange flower water ; mix this paste 
with a handful of flour, a drop of warm 
water and the yolks of three eggs ; then 
line several shallow moulds with it, 
glaze and bake them in a slow oven. 
When done put into each of them a lit- 
tle cream about the thickness of a crown 
piece, made with beef marrow, lemon 
peel, and cream, cover it with a spoonful 
of white of egg whipped to a snow, 
sprinkle sifted sugar over, and serve them 
very hot. 

1240.— SQDAB PIE 

Is a favorite dish in some parts of Eng- 
land, and is there generally made of 
mutton. Cut apples as for other pies, 
and lay them in rows with mutton chops 
and shred onion ; sprinkle with pepper 
and salt, and also some sugar. Bake the 
pie in a deep dish, cover it with a thick 
crust, and eat it hot ; it must be well 
done, and will take two to three hours 
baking. It is often made of beef cut 
into dice, with some lean bacon seasoned 
and mixed with the apples. 

1241.— VENISON PASTY. 

The neck, breast, and shoulder are the 
only parts of the deer used for a pasty ; 
and even the neck is more generally 
roasted. 

Cut the venison in pieces ; put it into 
a stewpan with a little port wine, two 
shalots, an onion, bay-leaf, fagot of pars- 
ley and thyme, pepper, salt, and a little 
gravy. Cover it close and let it stew 
gently until tender ; take out the meat, 
and pull out the bones ; reduce the gravy, 
and when thoroughly cold remove the 
fat ; then proceed to make the pasty . 

Line the sides of the dish with crust, 
but not the bottom ; lay in the meat with 
fat between each piece, season with pep- 



per and salt, put to it a pint of the gravy 
and a few bits of butter, cover with a 
good crust, and bake it thoroughly. 

Keep the remainder of the gravy till 
the pasty comes from the oven, put it by 
means of a funnel into the middle quite 
hot, and shake the dish to mix it well. 
Tlie pasty must be well done, requiring 
generally two hours' baking. 

A want of fat may be supplied by the 
fat of a loin of mutton steeped fort wenty- 
fuur hours in port wine and garlic vine- 
gar. 

1242.— TO MAKE A PASTY OF BEEF OR 

MUTTON TO EAT LIKE VENISON. 

Bone a small rump or piece of sirloin 
of beef, or a fat loin of mutton, after 
hanging several days. Beat it very well 
with a rolling-pin ; then rub ten pounds 
of meat with four ounces of sugar, and 
pour over it a glass of port, and the same 
of vinegar. Let it lie five days and 
nights; wash and wipe the meat very 
dry, and season it very high with pepper, 
Jamaica pepper, nutmeg, and salt. Lay 
it in the dish, and to ten pounds put 
three-quarters of a pound of butter; 
spread it over the meat. Put a crust 
round the edges, and cover with a thick 
one, or it will be overdone before the 
meat be soaked : it must be done in a 
slow oven. 

Set the bones in a pan in the oven, 
with no more water than will cover them, 
and one glass of port, a little pepper and 
salt, that you may have a little rich 
gravy to add to the pasty when drawn. 

1243.— YOEKSHIEE GOOSE PIE. 

Bone a goose, a fowl, and a pigeon ; 
season them well with pepper, taking 
care to cover the whole of the interior, 
or otherwise it will turn sour before it 
can be eaten ; put the pigeon into the 
fowl, and the fowl inside the goose, filling 
the interstices with various kinds of 
force and sausage meat and hard-boiled 



eggs. The liver and gizzard of the fowl 
and pigeon will assist in the forcemeat, 
which must be very well compounded ; 
sew up the goose, and put it into a thick 
crust. It will take several hours to 
bake. Make savory jelly, which must 
also be well searaned, pour it into the 
pie when it comes from the oven ; oina- 
ment the top, and let it be movable, so 
that the pie may have a good appearance to 
the last, as the crust is not to be eaten. 
A calf's foot, boned and cut small, may 
be added, especially if used for the 

jelly. 

1244. -A CHEISTMAS PIE. 

Bone a large goose and a fowl. Par- 
boil a smoked tongue ; peel it and cut off 
the root. Mix together a powdered nutmeg, 
a quarter of an ounce of powdei'ed mace, a 
tea-spoonful of pepper, the same quantity 
of salt, and season the fowl and goose. 

Roll out the paste near an inch thick, 
and divide it into three pieces ; cut out 
two of them in an oval form for the top 
and bottom ; and the other into a long 
straight piece for the sides or walls of 
the pie. Brush the paste all over with 
beaten white of egg, and set on the bot- 
tom the piece that is to form the wall, 
pinching the edges together, and cement- 
ing them with white of egg. The bottom 
piece must be large enough to turn up a 
little round the lower edge of the wall 
piece, to which it must be firmly joined 
all round. When j'^ou have the crust 
properly fixed, so as to be baked stand- 
ing alone without a dish, put in first the 
goose, then the fowl, then the tongue. 
Fill up what space is left with pieces of 
the flesh of pigeons, or of partridges, 
quails, or any game that is convenient. 
There must be no bones in the pie. You 
may add also some bits of ham, or some 
forcemeat balls. Cover the ingredients 
with ha!f a pound of butter, and put on 
the top crust which, of course, must be 
also of an oval form to correspond with 



the bottom. The lid must be placed not 
quite on the top edge of the wall, but 
an inch and a half below it ; close it very 
well, and ornament the sides and top 
with festoons and leaves cut out of paste ; 
notch the edges handsomely, and put a 
paste flower in the centre ; glaze the 
whole with beaten yolk of egg, and bind 
the pie all round with a double fold of 
white paper ; bake it four hours. 

If the weather is cold, and the pie kept 
carefully covered up from the air, it will 
be good for two or three weeks, the 
standing crust assisting to preserve it. 

1245— PATTIES. 

Roll out puff paste half an inch thick, 
and, with a two-inch round cutter, cut 
as many pieces as are required for the 
dish. Take an inch cutter, dip it in hot 
water, and press it in the middle of the 
paste about half through. Brush the 
pieces over with yolk of egg, bake in a 
quick oven, take out the piece marked 
with the inch cutter, remove the soft 
parts from the inside, fill them with a 
mince of any kind, dish them en a nap- 
kin, garnish with fried parsley. To 
make the tops, roll out the trimmings 
thin, cut some pieces with the inch cut- 
ter, egg them over, and bake them. 

Of iJee/".— Shred underdone dressed 
beef with a little fat, season with pepper, 
salt, and a httle shalot or onion. Add 
gravy, half a glass of Madeira, and a few 
bread-crumbs. When hot, fill the patty- 
cases. 

Of Veal. — Mince some veal that is 
not quite done, put to it a little parsley, 
lemon-peel, nutmeg, and salt ; a little 
cream and gravy just to moisten the 
meat ; if you have any ham, it will be 
an improvement. Do not warm it till 
the patties are baked. 

Of TurTcey. — I\Iince some of the white 
part; and with grated lemon, nutmeg, 



salt, a very little white pepper, cream, 
and a very little bit of butter warmed, 
fiU the patties. 

A good Mince for Patties. — Two 
ounces of ham, four of chicken or veal, 
one egg boiled hard, three cloves, a blade 
of mace, pepper and salt, in fine powder. 
Just before you serve, warm the above 
with four spoonfuls of rich ^ravy, the 
same of cream, and one ounce of butter. 
Fill as usual. 

Of Oyster. — Take off the beards of the 
oysters, cut the other parts in small bits, 
put them in a small tosser with a grate 
of nutmeg, a little white pepper and salt, 
a morsel of lemon-peel cut very small, a 
little cream, and a small quantity of the 
oyster liquor. Simmer a few minutes 
before you fill. 

Or : — Beard and chop the oysters, boil 
a little cream, with an onion and a small 
quantity of mace ; chop fine the crust of 
a French roll, mix it with the oysters, 
add the cream ; let it boil. Season with 
nutmeg, cayenne, and salt. 

Of Lobster. — Mince the fish in the 
same manner, mingling with it a little 
of the coral, and make with the same 
seasoning, a little cream, and the smallest 
bit of butter. 

Of Shrimps. — -Pick a quart of shrimps ; 
if they are very salt, season them with 
only mace and a clove or two. Mince 
two or three anchovies ; mix these with 
the spice, and then season the shrimps. 
Put a glass of sharp white wine. They 
do not take long baking. 

1246.— VOL-AU- VENT. 

Take puff paste, roll it about three- 
quarters of an inch thick, cut it round 
or oval according to the shape of the 
dish ; make the knife hot in water, so as 
not to drag the paste in cutting it ; mark 
the cover an inch from the edge, brush 
it over with yolk of egg ; bake it in a 



424 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



quick oven ; when done take off the top, 
clean out the soft paste, return it to the 
oven for a few minutes to dry ; dish it 
on a napkin. 

Care must be taken in taking out the 
soft part not to break the outside. 

It may be filled with ragodt of sweet- 
bread, fricassee of chicken, quenelles, 
lobster, or oysters, but is never made of 
a large size. 

1247.— VOL-AU-VENT OF CROQUETTES. 

Make croquettes of the size of a 
pigeon's egg, of veal and ham and of 
calves' brains, an equal quantity of each, 
fry them of the palest gold color ; make 
a rich white-sauce, and put into it the 
very smallest mushrooms or minced truf- 
fles ; give it an acid flavor with lemon 
or lemon-pickle, and put it into the vol-au- 
vent when it is to be sent to table. 

1248.— VOL-AU-VENT OF VEAL. 

*■ Cut veal into thin pieces the size of 
half-a-crown, beat them, and fry them a 
pale brown ; make some forcemeat and 
egg-balls, fry the former, put the whole 
into a rich brown gravy, fill the vol-au- 
vent. and serve it up hot. 

1249.— VOL-AU-VENT OF PIGEONS AND 
SWEETBREADS. 

Cut off the pinions, legs, and backs of 
three or four pigeons, and bone the 
breast, maldng it as large as possible : 
cut three or four pieces of blanched 
sweetbread the same size, put them to- 
gether, securing them with tape, and put 
them into a stewpan with a piece of but- 
ter, the trimmings, an onion, a bunch of 
sweet herbs, a slice of fat bacon, and a 
small teacupful of water. Let them 
stew till quite tender ; remove the tape, 
strain and thicken the gravy, and put 



them into the paste when it comes from 
the oven. 



1250.— CODFISH PIE. 

Take dressed codfish and cold oyster- 
sauce ; put a lit jle of the sauce at the 
bottom of a pie-dish, then a layer of 
flakes of codfish, with a little of the liver 
cut in small pieces ; season with black 
pepper and salt, and a very little nutmeg ; 
repeat the layers until the dish is full, 
cover it with breadcrumbs and bits of fresh 
butter ; bake for three-quarters of an 
hour, and let the top be quite brown. A 
couple of sounds well soaked, boiled ten- 
der, and cut in small pieces, are a great 
improvement. 

Or: — Take a piece of the middle of a 
small codfish, and salt it well one night ; 
next day wash it, cut it in slices, season 
with pepper, salt, and a very little nut- 
meg, mixed ; place it in a dish, and put 
some butter on it, with a little good 
broth of any kind. Cover it with a 
crust 5 and when done, raise it, add a 
dozen oystens, one quarter of a pint 
of cream, a httle flour and butter, a grate 
of lemon and nutmeg, and give it one 
boil. Bake it a full hour. 

1251.— A REMARKABLY FINE FISH PIE. 

Boil two pounds of small eels ; having 
cut the fins quite close, pick the flesh off, 
and throw the bones into the liquor with 
a little mace, pepper, salt, and slice of 
onion ; boil till quite rich, and strain it. 
Make forcemeat of the flesh, an anchovy, 
parsley, lemon-peel, salt, pepper, and 
crumbs, and four ounces of butter 
warmed, and lay it at the bottom of 
the dish. Take the flesh of soles, small 
cod, or dressed turbot, and lay them on 
the forcemeat, having rubbed it with salt 
and pepper; pour the gravy over, and 
bake. 



FEurr PIES. 



425 



FEUIT PIES, PUFFS, PUD- 
DINGS, &c. 

All pies made either with summer 
fruit or with winter preserves will be 
improved by a mixture of apples, pared 
and sliced. They are especially good 
with fresh cherries, currants, &c., and 
will be found an agreeable addition to 
cranberries. Equal portions also of cran- 
berries and any very sweet jam will im- 
prove both. When apples are mixed 
with jam, they should be sliced thin ; 
and if syrup be wanted, a few slices 
boiled with a little of the jam in sugar 
and water. In making pies of green 
gooseberries, apples, or rhubarb, the 
sugar should be clarified — ^that is, boiled 
in a little water, but no water poured 
into the pie, as it destroys the flavor of 
the fruit. For frenli fruiU short crust 
is very suitable. 

For a good common pie-crust allow 
half a pound or three-quarters of shorten- 
ing to a pound of flour. Pie-crust looks 
the nicest made entirely of lard, but does 
not taste so good as with some butter. 
In winter, beef shortening, mixed with 
butter, makes good plain crust. Rub 
half of the shortening with two-thirds 
of the flour — to each pound of flour put 
a teaspoonful of salt and add just suffi- 
cient cold water to render it moist 
enough to roll out easily. Divide the 
crust into two equal portions — lay one 
of them aside for the upper crust, take 
the other, roll it out quite thin, flouring 
your rolling-board and pin, so that the 
crust will not stick to them, and line 
your pie plates, which should be previ- 
ously buttered — fill your plates with 
your fruit, then roll out the upper crust 
as thin as possible, spread on the reserv- 
ed shortening, sprinkle over the flour, 
roll it up, and cut it into as many pieces 
as you have pies to cover. KoU each 



one out about half an inch thick, and 
cover the pies — trim the edges off' neatly 
with a knife, and press the crust down 
round the edge of the plate with a jag- 
ging iron, so that the juices of the fruit 
may not run out while baking. Pastry 
should be baked in a quick oven. 



1252.— PUFF PASTE, OE CONFECTIONEE'8 
PASTRY. 

Weigh out a pound and a quarter of 
sifted flour, and a pound of butter. Rub 
about one-third of the butter with two- 
thirds of the flour, and a teaspoonful of 
salt. When the butter is thoroughly 
mixed with the flour, add one beaten 
egg, and cold water to moisten it suffi- 
ciently to roll out. Sprinkle part of the 
reserved flour on a board, cut the butter 
left into small pieces, and roll them out 
as thin as possible. Lay the butter, as 
fast as rolled out, on a floured plate, each 
piece by itself^roll out the pastry as 
thin as it can be rolled, cover it with the 
rolled butter, sprinkle on part of the 
reserved flour, and roll the crust up. 
Continue to roll out the crust, and put 
on the reserved butter and flour, till the 
whole is used. Roll it out lightly, about 
half an inch thick, for the uj)per crust, 
or rim to your pies — plain pie crust 
should be used for the under crust. Or, 
instead of flour, sprinkle some " baking 
powder" on each layer of butter; when 
the butter melts, it \vill cause the pow- 
der to effervesce and puff up the paste. 
To make the " baking powder," take one 
ounce of carbonate of soda, and seven 
drachms of Tartaric acid, mix well : it 
may be conveniently applied by means of 
a common pepper-pot kept for the pur- 
pose. Puff pastry, to be nice, should 
be baked in a quick oven till of a light 
brown color. If it browns before the 
fruit in the pie is sufficiently" baked, cover 
it with thick paper. 



426 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



1258.— FLAKY PASTE. (By a Lady of New- 
York.) 

Wet half a pound of dried flour with 
cold water enough to make a hard, stiff 
paste ; roll it one way only ; roll in half 
a pound of butter with a knife, in small 
bits at a time. 

1254.— EHUBAEB PIES. 

Take the tender stalks of the rhubarb, 
strip off the skin, and cut the stalks into 
thin slices. Line deep plates with pie 
crust, then put in the rhubarb, with a 
thick layer of sugar to each layer of 
rhubarb — a little grated lemon-peel im- 
proves the pie. Cover the pies with a 
crust — press it down tight round the 
edge of the plate, and prick the crust 
with a fork. Ehubarb pies should be 
baked about an hour, in a slow oven — it 
will not do to bake them quickly. Some 
cooks stew the rhubarb before making 
it into pies, but it is not so good as when 
used without stewing. 

1255.— PUMPKIN PIE. 

Halve the pumpkin, take out the seeds 
—rinse the pumpkin, and cut it into 
small strips — stew them over a moderate 
fire, in just sufficient water to prevent 
their burning to the bottom of the pot. 
When stewed soft, turn off the water, 
and let the pumpkin steam, over a slow 
fire, for fifteen or twenty minutes, tak- 
ing care that it does not burn. Take it 
from the fire, and strain it when cool, 
through a sieve. If you wish to have 
the pies very rich, put to a quart of the 
stewed pumpkin two quarts of milk, and 
twelve eggs. If you like them plain, 
put to a quart of the pumpkin one quart 
of milk and three eggs. The thicker the 
pie is of the pumpkin, the less will be 
the number of eggs required for them. 
One egg, with a table-spoonful of flour, 
will answer for a quart of the pumpkin, 
if ver}^ little milk is used. Sweeten the 
pumpkin with sugar, and very little mo- 



lasses — the sugar and eggs should be 
beaten together. Ginger, grated lemon- 
rind, cinnamon and spices or nutmeg, ai"e 
good for the pies. Pumpkin pies require 
a very hot oven. 

1256.— PUMPKIN PUDDING. (By a Lady of 
New York.) 

One quart stewed pumpkin, nine beaten 
eggs, three pints cream, sugar, mace, nut- 
meg and ginger. Bake in paste. 

1257.— POTATO PUDDING. 

Boil Carolina or mealy Irish potatoes 
until they are quite soft. When peeled 
mash and strain them. To a quarter of 
a pound of potatoes, put a quart of milk, 
three table-spoonfuls of melted butter, 
four beaten eggs, a wine-glass of wine — 
add sugar and autmeg to the taste. 

1258.— PEACH PIE. 

Take mellow juicy peaches — wash and 
put them in a deep pie plate, lined with 
pie crust. Sprinkle a thick layer of sugar 
on each layer of peaches, put in about a 
table-spoonful of water, and sprinkle a 
little flour over the top — cover with thick 
crust and bake from fifty to sixty min- 
utes. 

1259.— FANCY PASTPvY. 

Use some fancy cutter, cutting the 
paste a quarter of an inch thick, egg them 
and glaze them, and bake them a light 
brown ; when cold put different colored 
sweetmeats, such as apple jelly, and red 
currant jelly into devices upon the top of 
each piece ; dish them upon a napkin. 

1260. GLAZING FOR TARTS. 

Mix sifted sugar and water into a thick 
paste like cream, and brush it over the 
crust. 

1261.— COCOA-NUT PIE. 

Out off the brown part of the cocoa- 
nut, grate the white part, and mix it 



with milk, and set it on the fire and let 
it boil slowly eight or ten minutes. To 
a pound of the grated cocoa-nut allow a 
quart of milk, eight eggs, four table- 
spoonfuls of sifted white sugar, a glass 
of wine, a small cracker, pounded fine, 
two spoonfuls of melted butter, and half 
a nutmeg. The eggs and sugar should 
be beaten together to a froth, then the 
wine stirred in. Put them into the milk 
and cocoa-nut, which should be first al- 
lowed to get quite cool — add the cracker 
and nutmeg — turn the whole into deep 
pie plates, with a lining and rim of pufi" 
paste. Bake them as soon as turned 
into the plates. 

1262.— A PLAIN CUSTAED PIE. 

Boil a quart of milk with half a dozen 
peach leaves, or the rind of a lemon. 
When they have flavored the milk, strain 
it, and set it where it will boil. Mix a 
table-spoonful of flour, smoothly, with a 
couple of table-spoonfuls of milk, and 
stir it into the boiling milk. Let it boil 
a minute, stirring it constantly — take it 
from the fire, and when cool, put in three 
beaten eggs — sweeten it to the taste, 
turn it into deep pie plates lined with 
paste, and bake the pies in a quick oven. 

1263.— MINCE PIES. 

Fresh tongue must be used. It should 
be for two days well covered with equal 
quantities of salt, brown sugar, and pow- 
dered cloves. After boiling it until it is 
thoroughly done — say two hours — skin 
it and mince it fine. Pick, wash, and 
dry three pounds of currants, grate the 
rind of five lemons, and extract their 
juice, blanch and pound an ounce of bit- 
ter almonds and a pound of sweet al- 
monds, powder four nutmegs, and grind 
together a dozen cloves and a dozen 
blades of mace ; chop up three pounds of 
beef suet, six pounds of Sultana raisins, 
and six of the best pippin apples after 



paring and coring them. Mix them to- 
gether, pouring over them a quart of 
Madeira wine and a pint of brandy. 

This mince-meat should be placed in a 
tolerably deep dish and baked with puff 
paste. It should be thoroughly baked. 
Most persons prefer to eat these pies 
warm, but they are by no means unpal' 
atable when cold. 

These pies are richer when the mince- 
meat has been left for a few days in a 
stone jar, closely covered with a paper 
which has been dipped in brandy. When 
taken out, a little more sugar and a small 
quantity of brandy should be added to 
the mixture before the pies are made. 

1264.— CEAOKEK PIE. 

One soda biscuit and a half, one teacup 
of white sugar, one lemon, one teacup of 
boiling water. Break the biscuit into 
small bits, pour over them the boiling 
water, cover, and leave them to swell. 
Grate the yellow part of the rind of the 
lemon, add to it the juice and the sugar, 
mix with the cracker when it is suf- 
ficiently swelled ; make a nice crust, and 
prepare as apple pies. Sift sugar over 
the pies when baked. 

1265.— MINCE MEAT FOE CHEISTMAS PIES, 
(Miss Jane Strickland's Eeceipt.) 

Take equal quantities of finely shred and 
chopped beef suet ; cold roast beef, well 
roasted; currants, washed, dried, and 
picked ; and raisins stoned and chopped ; 
and apples, pared, cored, and chopped fine. 
Mix all these prepared ingredients well 
together, and sweeten with good moist 
Jamaica sugar, to taste ; grate off with 
loaf sugar the peel of two lemons, and 
grate in two nutmegs. Having well 
mingled all these materials together, add 
to them in the proportion of your mince- 
meat, thus : — If you have two pounds of 
every thing — namely meat, suet, currants, 
raisins, and apples, and not quite two 
pounds of sugar, pour over the mixture a 



428 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



pint of rum, or French brandy, and half a 
pint of raisin wine. If spirits are disliked, 
raisin wine of a fine quality or Lisbon 
must be added ; but the spirits will keep 
it three months. Fill a jar with your 
mince-meat, cram down as hard as pos- 
sible, and cover with a close-fitting lid, 
tied down with brown paper. Be careful 
wheuevei you take out your meat, to 
cram down that in the jar with a spoon, 
and cover close. Line your tin dishes 
with puff or family paste ; fill with mince 
meat heaped up in the middle, cut slices 
of candied orange, lemon, and citron 
peel, and put on your meat, cover in with 
paste ; mark prettily with a knife, and 
bake in a quick oven ; heat them for 
table. 

It was formerly the custom in England 
for married couples to keep the anni- 
versaries of their wedding days, and on 
those occasions as many small mince 
pies were placed on one dish on the table, 
as the host and hostess had been married 
years. 

1266.— MINCE MEAT (furnished by a New York 
Lady). 

One boiled tongue ; half its weight of 
finely chopped beef suet; two pounds 
currants, two pounds raisins, one quart 
of brandy, one of wine; apples and sugar 
at discretion ; cloves, cinnamon, mace, 
citron, orange-peel. 

The mince meat made at Windsor 
Castle every year, and made one month 
previous to using, is as follows : Two 
hundred and forty pounds of raisins, 
four hundred pounds currants, two hun- 
dred pounds lump sugar, three pounds 
cinnamon, three pounds nutmegs, three 
pounds cloves, three pounds ground all- 
spice, two pounds ginger, three hundred 
pounds beef, three hundred and fifty 
pounds suet; twenty-four bushels of 
apples, two hundred and forty lemons, 
thirty pounds of cedret, seventy-two 



bottles of brandy, three pounds mace, 
sixty pounds lemon-peel, sixty pounds 
orange-peel. 

1267. -APRICOT TAKT. 

Take some apricots, cut them in two, 
and break the stor.t-s, put them into paste 
with sugar, a small quantity of preserved 
lemon, and a few of the kernels, close it, 
sprinkle sugar over, and glaze it. If the 
apricots are not ripe, boil them a short 
time in water, and drain them well. 

1268.— APPLE PIE. 

Pare, core, and quarter the apples ; 
boil the cores and parings in sugar and 
water; strain oiFthe liquor, adding more 
sugar ; grate the rind of a lemon over the 
apples, and squeeze the juice into the 
syrup ; mix half a dozen cloves with the 
fruit, put in a piece of butter, the size of 
a walnut, and add or omit a glass of wine ; 
cover with puff paste. 

Gooseberry, Currant and Raspberry, 
Cherr}', Plum, Damson, Pear, Quince, 
Mulberry, Whortleberry and Raspberry, 
Dewberry and Raspbeiry, or Cranberry, 
may all be made in the same way, in win- 
ter. A little whipped cream may be 
placed in the top, for a variety. 

1269.— CODLING TAET. 

Scald the fruit ; when ready, take off 
the skin, and lay them whole in a dish ; 
put a little of the water that the apples 
were boiled in at bottom, strew them 
over with powdered lump sugar ; when 
cold, put a paste round the edges, and 
over. When the tart is baked, smear 
the crust with white of egg, and sift over 
it some powdered sugar. Serve with 
custard. 

Or : — Line the bottom of a shallow 

dish with paste ; lay the apples in it, 

sweeten, and lay little twists of paste 
over in bars. 



PUTTS GATJFFEES. 



429 



The mode of making the new-fashioned 
Apple-pie is to pare and quarter the 
apples, scald them, beat them with a 
spoon with some of the liquor, add grat- 
ed lemon-peel, the juice of a lemon or 
Seville orange, or a part of a quince, 
when they are to be got, cloves, white 
sugar finely pounded, and a piece of but- 
ter ; put a paste round the dish, and 
cover it with bars or flowers of paste — 
the excellence of the pie consisting of the 
sort of apple and the goodness of the 
paste ; the fruit should be raised in the 
middle, as it shrinks in the baking. 

1270.— TO MAKE A SIMNEL. 

One pound of flour, one quarter of a 
pound of butter, one quarter of a pound 
of lump sugar, one pound of currants, 
two ounces of candied lemon, one quar- 
ter of an ounce of carbonate of soda 
mixed with an egg, and a little milk ; to 
be put in a tin mould, and baked till 
enough. 

1271.— EXCELLENT LIGHT PUFFS. 

Mix two spoonfuls of flour, a little 
grated lemon-peel, some nutmeg, half a 
spoonful of brandy, a little loaf-sugar, 
and one egg ; then fry it enough, but not 
brown ; beat it in a mortar with five 
eggs, whites and yolks ; put a quantity 
of lard in a frying-pan, and when quite 
hot drop a dessert-spoonful of batter at 
a time ; turn as they brown. Serve 
them immediately with sweet sauce. 

Spanish Pvffs. — Put one ounce of fresh 
butter into a quart stewpan ; when hot, 
put in four spoonfuls of flour ; stir it over 
the fire for five minutes ; have ready 
boiling a gill of milk, which stir in by de- 
grees so as to avoid making it lumpy ; 
when it is thoroughly boiled, take it off" 
the fire, stir in six eggs, a pinch of salt, 
a little nutmeg, chopped lemon-peel, and 
a handful of currants, with sugar to 
palate, and suflQcient orange-flower water 
to flavor it ; let it get cold ; when wanted 



for use have some lard boiling, make the 
batter into balls the size of a small wal- 
nut, fry them until they burst ; drain ; 
dust them over with powdered sugar ; 
serve with wine-sauce. 

German Puffs. — Put half a pound of 
butter into a breakfast-cupful of milk, 
place the pan upon the fire, and when it 
boils add a cupful of flour ; beat all well 
together, and, when cold, mix in six eggs, 
leaving out two of the whites ; beat up 
some sugar and grated lemon-peel with 
the eggs, and bake the puflFs in a mode- 
rately heated oven. 

Irish Puffs. — Pound one quarter of a 
pound of sweet and one ounce of bitter 
almonds, but not too finely ; take one 
quarter of a pound of loaf-sugar pounded 
and sifted, the whites of two eggs beaten 
to a thick froth ; mix all together, and 
put the puffs into pattypans covered 
with paste ; then sift powdered sugar 
over them thickly, and bake them a light 
brown. The flavor may be improved by 
pounding the almonds with orange- 
flower water or a little essence of lemon. 

' 1272.— GAUFFEES. 

Take four or five ounces of flour, three 
ounces of pounded sugar, half a pint of 
whipped cream, four or five eggs, a small 
stick of pounded vanilla, a grating of nut- 
meg, and a Uttle salt, with a glass of cu- 
ra(joa or ratafia. 

Place the flour, sugar, and salt in a ba- 
sin, then add the yolk of eggs, the va- 
nilla, and the spirit, mixing them well 
together, and gradually adding the 
whipped cream. Just before using the 
batter, add the whites of eggs, whipped 
to a froth, and mix them in lightly, so as 
to thoroughly incorporate them with it. 

Sake these gauffres in tongs made for 
the purpose, observing, however, that 
the iron be very carefully heated, and the 
superfluous heat allowed to go off pre- 
viously to filling them with batter j rub 



430 



THE PRACTICAL HOTTSEKEEPEE. 



the tongs with fresh butter ; fill the bot- 
tom part with batter, and fasten on the 
top, then turn it, and when a fine brown 
on both sides, shake some pounded spice 
and sugar over them, and send them to 
table. 

They may be spread with any kind of 
preserve or jelly. 

1273.— LENT PIES. 

Boil a dozen eggs quite hard, and chop 
the yolks very fine ; chop also a dozen of 
moderate-sized juicy apples, peeled and 
cored, together with two pounds of ston- 
ed raisins ; add two pounds of currants, 
one pound of sugar, and. a table-spoonful 
each of powdered cinnamon, nutmeg, 
and beaten mace ; take also the juice and 
grated peel of three ripe lemons, with 
half a pound of citron cut into slips ; mix 
all these thoroughly, and moisten the 
whole with a pint each of white wine and 
brandy. If at hand, a little rose-water 
may be added, and ratafia may be used 
instead of brandy. 

1274.— SWEET PATTIES. 

Chop the meat of a boiled calf's-foot, 
ot which you use the liquor for jelly, 
with two apples, one ounce of orange, 
and lemon peel candied, and some fresh 
peel and juice ; mix with them one-half 
of a nutmeg grated, the yolk of an egg, 
a spoonful of brandy, and four ounces 
currants, washed and dried. Bake in 
email patty pans. 

1275.— VOL-AU- VENT 

IMeans light as wind ; you must there- 
fore make this paste very delicate. It 
is used for first or second courses. Of 
all things in pastry the vol-au-vent re- 
quires the most care and precision ; 
they that can make a good vol-au-vent 
may be stamped as good pastry-cooks. 
Make a pound of pufF paste, giving 
it seven rolls and a half, leave it an 
inch in thickness, make a mark upon 



the top either round or oval, and 
according to the size of your dish ; 
then, with a sharp-pointed knife cut it 
out from the paste, holding the knife 
with the point slanting outwards ; turn 
it over, mark the edges with the back of 
your knife, and place it upon a baking- 
sheet, which you have sprinkled with 
water; egg over the top, then dip the 
point of the knife into hot water, and cut 
a ring upon the top a quarter of an inch 
deep, and half an inch from the edge of 
the vol-au-vent ; set in a rather hot oven ; 
if getting too much color, cover over 
with a sheet of paper ; do not take it out 
before done, or it would fall, but when 
quite set, cut off the lid and empty it 
with a knife : be careful to make no hole 
in the side or bottom ; if for first course 
it is ready, but if for second sift sugar all 
over, which glaze with the salamander. 
Regulate the thickness of the paste from 
which you cut the vol-au-vent, accord- 
ing to the size you require it, the siaaller 
ones of course requiring thinner paste. 
A vol-au-vent for entrees will take about 
half an hour to bake, and as the common 
iron ovens often throw out more heat 
upon one side than the other, it will re- 
quire turning two or three times to cause 
it to rise equally ; it ought to be when 
baked of a light gold color. 

Vol-av^Vent of Peaches. — Put half a 
pound of sugar in a sugar-pan, with the 
juice of a lemon and about half a pint of 
water, place it upon the fire, and boil it 
till becoming a thickish syrup ; then have 
eight peaches not quite ripe, which cut 
in halves, break their stones and blanch 
the kernels, throw six halves with the 
kernels into the syrup, boil three minutes, 
take them out with a skimmer, lay them 
upon a dish, and take off their skins, 
stew the rest in syrup in like manner, 
four at a time ; when all done pour what 
liquor runs from them again into the 
syrup, which reduce to a good thickness, 



VOL-AU-VENT TAETS. 



431 



pass it through a tammy into a basin, 
when cold pour a little over the peaches, 
and leave until ready to serve ; dress the 
peaches in your vol-au-vent with the 
syrup over. 

Vol-au-vent with Fruit. — These do not 
require to be so high as the other, es- 
pecially as the fruit ought to be dressed 
in the form of a pyramid ; if they are cut 
about three-quarters of an inch in thick- 
ness it will be enough ; when nearly done, 
sift some powdered sugar over them, and 
put it back in the oven to glaze well ; if 
not hot enough use the salamander ; re- 
move the interior, taking care not to 
make a hole in the bottom or sides, and 
fill with any kind of fruit you like, but 
never mix two kinds together, except 
currant and raspberry. 

Siceet Vohau- Vent with Bhuiarb. — 
In the spring of the year this makes a 
very inviting and wholesome dish, and its 
qualities purify the blood, which the 
winter's food has rendered gross ; cut 
about twelve sticks of rhubarb into 
lengths of one inch, put it in a stewpan 
holding about two quarts, put over it a 
quarter of a pound of sugar, and a table- 
spoonful of water, set it on a sharp fire, 
stirring it ; do not let it get brown, or it 
would spoil, and lose its flavor ; it will 
take but a few minutes to do ; when ten- 
der, put it in a basin to cool ; a few min- 
utes before serving fill the vol-au-vent 
with it, and serve cold. 

Sweet Vol-au-vent with green Goose- 
herries. — A quart of green gooseberries, 
a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, 
the juice of half a lemon, and a table- 
spoonful of water ; put on the fire and 
move it about for ten minutes, or till 
tender, and forming a thick green mar- 
malade ; put it in a basin till cold ; serve 
in pyramid in the vol-au-vent ; a little 
thick syrup, if handy, poured over, im- 
proves the appearance. 

Sweet Vol-au-vent with Orange, — 



Well peel six oranges, removing all the 
pith, divide each into six or eight pieces, 
put them in a pan, with a quarter of a 
pound of si;igar, and the juice of an orange, 
set it on a slow fire, with the cover on, 
stir it now and then — ten minutes will 
be sufficient time for it ; take out the 
pieces one after the other, lay them in a 
basin, reduce your syrup to a proper 
thickness ; when ready to serve, dish 
your pieces of orange in it, and pour over 
the syrup. 

1276.— COCOA-NUT CUSTAED. 

Boil one quart of milk, when it boils 
sift in three table-spoonfuls of farina. 
Take off" the fire, stir in one -quarter of a 
pound of butter, and let it stand until 
quite cold. Beat six eggs, the yolks and 
whites separate, until very light ; add to 
the yolks three-quarters of a pound of 
sugar, and the grated pulp of one cocoa- 
nut. Stir the mixture into the boiled 
milk, add the beaten whites of the eggs, 
line tin pie plates with a nice crust, fill 
with the mixture, and bake. 

127T.— SMALL FRUIT TAETS. 

The next in order to sweet vol-au- 
vents, and which are easier to make, are 
tartlets, their appearance being inviting, 
and their expense limited, and very easj 
to serve. They may be made from the 
trimmings of any puff" paste which re- 
mains, and should be enveloped in paper, 
and kept in a cold place, or in the flour- 
tub. Make them as follows : — Have 
ready twelve or more small tartlet pans, 
which butter, line each with a bit of 
puft" paste cut with a cutter the size of a 
crown-piece, force up the edges with 
your thumb and finger, put a small ball 
(made of flour and water) in each, bake 
them nicely in a very hot oven ; when 
done, take out the ball (which may be 
kept for other occasions) from the tart- 
lets, and shake powdered sugar over the 
bottom of each, and glaze with a sala- 



433 



THE PBACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



mander, turn them over, and shake sugar 
in the interior, which also salamander ; 
fill with any kind of preserve, marmal- 
ade, or fruit, for sweet vol-au-vents. 
They may be made with cream as fol- 
lows : — Make your tartlets as before, 
placing cream instead of the ball of flour, 
made thus : — Put half a pint of milk in 
a stewpan, when boiling, add half a stick 
of vanilla, reduce the milk to half in 
another stewpan, have the yolks of two 
eggs and a quarter of an ounce of pow- 
dered sugar, and one ounce of sifted flour, 
with a grain of salt, pour in the milk, 
taking out the vanilla, place over a slow 
fi]-e, keep stirring till it thickens ; when 
cold, fill the tartlets, and bake nicely in 
a moderate oven ; when cold, add a little 
jam, have ready a meringue of four eggs, 
lay a teaspoonful of each upon them, 
spreading it quite flat with a knife ; orna- 
ment the top with some of the mixture, 
put into a paper cornet, sift sugar over, 
place in a slow oven till a light brown 
color, and the meringue quite crisp ; if 
the oven be too hot, cover with pa- 
per dress, and serve in pyramid on a 
iis^ They should be hght-colored. 

12T8.— LEMON TAETLETS. 

Pare, rather thick, the rinds of four 
lemons, which boil tender in two waters, 
and beat fine ; add to it four ounces of 
blanched almonds cut thin, four ounces 
of lump-sugar, the juice of the lemons, 
and a little grated peel ; simmer to a 
syrup ; when cold, turn it into a shallow 
tin tart dish lined with a rich thin puff" 
paste, and lay bars of paste over; as 
soon as the paste is baked, serve it. 

1279.— GREEN APEICOT TAETLETS. 

When the wall-fruit trees are thinned, 
take the thinnings before the stone is 
formed ; stew them gently in sugar and 
water. When tender, reduce and thicken 
the syrup, and put it with the fruit into 



pattypans ; or, if covered with a paste, 
it is then called a pie. This also applies 
to grapes. 

1280.— PRUNE TAET. 

Give prunes a scald, take out the 
stones and break them ; put the kernels 
into a little cranberry -juice, with the 
prunes and sugar: simmer, and when 
cold make a tart of the sweetmeat. 

It must be almost needless to say that 
tartlets of damsons^ plums^ and most sorts 
of stone-fruit, may be made in the same 
manner. 

1281.— TAETLETS 1 LA PAGANINL 

Beat up the whites of three eggs to a 
froth, and then add five ounces of pound- 
ed sugar ; beat it well up, and have your 
pattypans ready covered with paste, upon 
which put any quantity you please of 
jam or marmalade ; bake them for about 
a half an hour, and when done fill them 
with the whip. This quantity will fill 
sixteen patt3'pans of a small size. 

1282.- TO PEEPAEE CEANBEEEIES FOE 
TAET8. 

Simmer them in moist sugar, without 
breaking, twenty minutes ; and let them 
become cold before being used. A pint 
will require nearly three ounces of sugar. 

1283.— ALMOND PASTE. 

Take a pound of sweet almonds, blanch 
them in boiling water ; take off the peel, 
and let them soak in cold water four 
hours, then pound them well in a mortar ; 
add a little water to prevent them from 
turning to oil ; after they are yevj fine 
and quite in a paste, put in three-quarters 
of a pound of sugar well pounded, and 
mix all together in the mortar. If your 
paste is quite fine, take it out of the mor- 
tar, put it into a stewpan over a slow 
fire, and stir it with a wooden spoon till 
it becomes white and dr}^ ; then put 't 
again into the mortar, and mix with it a 



TARTS. 



433 



little melted gum that has been strained 
through a towel ; take care to keep it 
covered, to prevent it drying. You 
may give what scent you please, as lemon, 
vanilla, rose, orange, &c. &c. If you use 
almond-paste to make vases, baskets, or 
tartlets, keep it always free from dust, 
spread it on a marble with a rolling-pin 
as thin as possible, and if you put it into 
a mould, butter the mould lightly, and 
give the paste the form of it. Bake in a 
moderate oven. 

Almond-paste should always be kept 
in a gallipot, covered with a damp towel 
to prevent its drying. 

1284.— TARTLETS OF ALMOND PASTE. 

Butter some tartlet-moulds, and after 
having spread the paste on the dresser, 
cut it with a cutter to the size of the 
moulds; put a little sweetmeat in the 
middle, and a small rosette in the middle 
of that. Bake in a moderate oven. 

1285. -TARTLETS OP ALMOND PASTE WITH 
STRAWBERRIES. 

Spread some almond-paste over the 
pastry-table, and cut it with a fluted 
cutter the same size as other tartlets ; 
butter slightly the moulds, and put them 
into a moderate oven. When the paste 
is done almost white, take them out of 
the mould, and garnish with currant 
jelly, raspberry or apricot jam, &c. &c. 
When the sweetmeats do not go to the 
oven, they are always of a better color 
and taste. 

1286.— APRICOT SWEETMEAT FOR TARTS. 

Take a pound of ripe apricots, remove 
the stones, break them and blanch the 
kernels, add one pound and a half of 
green gages and one pound and a quarter 
of lump sugar ; simmer it until the fruit 
becomes a jam. It must not boil, and 
must be kept well skimmed ; clarified 
sugar will be found the best to use for 
this preserve. 



1287.- GOOSEBERRY (GREEN) TART. 

Use either whole gooseberries, or make 
a marmalade of them with a good syrup; 
the last method is perhaps the best, as 
you can tell easily how sweet they are 
and ought to be ; if made of marmalade 
the seeds ought to be taken out. Green 
currants and grapes the same way. 

1288.— ORANGE TARTS. 

Take some oranges, pare them very 
thin, soak them in water for two or three 
days, changing the water often, then boil 
them till they become soft and lose their 
bitterness ; when cold cut a thick slice 
off the top and bottom, and the rest the 
thickness of a crown piece ; line the tart- 
let-pans with puff paste, and fill them 
with layers of sugar and orange alter- 
nately. 

Pears, raspberries, cherries, &c., are 
simply put into the paste with sugar, and 
baked. 

1289.— CROUSTADE OR DRESDEN PATTIES. 

Slice some stale bread about half an 
inch thick ; cut from it, with a round 
paste-cutter, as many croustades as will 
be required : mark the centres with a 
smaller cutter, scoop out the insides as in 
paste patties, then fry them a light 
brown, drain them well, and fill them 
with any hot compote of fruit or hot pre- 
serve. The croustade may be filled with 
any sort of minced meat or fowl and 
served as an entree in the first course. 
They are very nice made with the rounds 
of a French roll; it should be pared 
very thin, then cut in rounds of such 
thickness, as to allow the centres to be 
taken out; dip them in milk, and let 
them drain ; do not let them break ; brush 
them with egg, and sift the rasping of 
the roll over them; fry them a pale 
brown, and fill with oysters, stewed 
mushrooms, &c., or, as above, with fruit 
or preserve. 



1290.— PATTIES RESEMBLING MINCE PIES. 

Chop the kidney and fat of cold veal, 
apple, orange, and lemon-peel candied, 
fresh currants, a little wine, two or three 
cloves, a little brandy, and a bit of sugar. 
Bake as before. 

1291.— PATTIES WITH CURDS. 

Take some very rich milk, put into it 
some lemon-juice or vinegar, place it on 
the fire that it may curdle, drain off the 
whey through a sieve ; add to the curds 
the yolk of an egg beaten up in two 
spoonfuls of milk, a few currants, and a 
little pounded cinnamon. Make the 
paste and prepare the patties in the same 
way as in the preceding receipt. 

1292.— CHEESECAKES. 

Strain the whey from the curd of two 
quarts of milk ; when rather dry crumble 
it through a coarse sieve, and mix with 
six ounces of fresh butter, one ounce of 
pounded blanched almonds, a little 
orange-flower water, half a glass of 
raisin wine, a grated biscuit, four ounces 
of currants, some nutmeg and cinnamon 
in fine powder, and beat all the above 
with three eggs and half a pint of cream 
till quite light : then line the pattypans 
with a thin puff paste, and fill them three 
parts full. 

1293.— BREAD CHEESECAKES. 

Slice a loaf as thin as possible, pour on 
it a pint of boiling cream, let it stand 
two hours ; then take eight eggs, half a 
pound of butter and a nutmeg grated, 
beat them well together, put in half a 
pound of currants well washed and dried 
before the fire, and bake them in raised 
crusts or pattypans. 

1294.— MISS BRATTY'S CHEESECAKES. 

The yolks of eight eggs, eight ounces 
of sugar finely powdered and sifted, eight 
ouncets of sweet almonds powdered, beat 



all together till very white. Line the 
pans with a thin paste ; immediately be- 
fore you put them into the oven, mix the 
size of a walnut of butter melted into 
them over a fire. If the oven be too hot, 
they will fall when taken out. 

Or: — Ten cgrs, leave out half the 
whites, one pound of sugar finely pow- 
dered and sifted, half a pound of flour, 
three ounces of butter, three ounces of 
sweet almonds, with a glass of bi'andy 
put into them while they are pounding. 
Beat them all together, and butter the 
pans very well. 

1295.— LEMON CHEESECAKES. 

Mix four ounces of sifted lump sugar 
and four ounces of butter, and gently * 
melt it ; then add the yolks of two and 
the white of one egg, the rind of three 
lemons shred fine, and the juice of one 
and a half, one Savoy biscuit, some 
blanched almonds pounded, three spoon- 
fuls of brandy. • 

1296.— ORANGE CHEESECAKES. 

When you have blanched half a pound 
of almonds, beat them very fine, with 
orange-flower water, half a pound of fine 
sugar beaten and sifted, and one pound 
of butter that has been melted carefully 
without oiling, and which must be nearly 
cold before you use it; then beat tlie 
yolks of ten and whites of four eggs ; 
pound two candied oranges, and a fresh 
one with the bitterness boiled out, till 
as tender as marmalade, without any 
lumps ; beat the whole together, and put 
into pattypans. 

1297.— ALMOND CHEESECAKES. 

Press the whey from as much curd as 
will fill two dozen small pattypans ; then 
put it on the back of a sieve, and with half 
an ounce of butter, rub it through with 
the back of a spoon ; put to it six yolks 
and three whites of eggs, and a few al- 



CHEESECAKES. 



435 



monds of both sorts pounded, with as 
much sugar as will make the curd pro- 
perly sweet ; mix with these a wine- 
glastfnl of sherry or Madeira, in which 
boil the rind of a Seville orange, if you 
can get one ; or, if not, a large ripe one 
of the common kind, with all its juice. 
Beat all gradually together, and when 
thoroughlj'- blended fill the pattypans ; 
the baking will take from a quarter of 
an hour to twenty minutes. 

1298.— POTATO CHEESECAKE. 

Four ounces of butter, the same of 
pounded sugar, six ounces of potatoes 
boiled and floured through a sieve, the 
rind of one lemon, and half the juice, 
unless acid is desirable ; mix these in- 
gredients well together, with two eggs, 
and fill the tart-pan and bake it. 

Potato Cheese is celebrated in various 
parts of Europe. It is made thus : — 
Boil good white potatoes, and when cool, 
peel them and rasp or mash them to a 
light pulp ; to five pounds of this, which 
must be free from lumps, add a pint of 
sour milk and salt to taste ; knead the 
whole well, cover it, and leave it for three 
or four days, according to the season ; 
then knead it afresh, and put the cheeses 
into small baskets, when they will part 
with their superfluous moisture; dry 
them in the shade, and place them in 
layers in large pots or kegs, where they 
may remain a fortnight. The older they 
are, the finer they become. This cheese, 
it is said, never engenders worms, and 
in well closed vessels, in a dry place, 
will keep for years. (This receipt is 
from an old English work). 

1299.— CHEESECAKE-STOCK, THAT WILL 
KEEP FOPv SEVEKAL TEAES. 

To a quarter of a pound of butter put 
one pound of loaf-sugar broken into small 
pieces, six eggs, leaving out two whites, 
the rind of three lemons grated, and the 



juice of three; put them all into a pan, 
and let them simmer over tlie fire until 
the sugar is dissolved, and it begins to 
thicken like honej'. When cold put it 
into sweetmeat pots for use. When 
made into cheesecakes, add grated sweet 
biscuits. 

Line the small tartlet pans used for 
these small cakes with good, but not too 
light, puff-paste: make them of a deep 
yellow color, and put on each a strip of 
candied citron. 

1300.— ICING FOE FEUIT PIE& A^^D 
TAPvTS. 

The common mode is to take the white 
of an &^^, whisked to a froth, mixed 
thickljr with pounded sugar, and laid on 
with a quill feather. For larger tarts it 
should, however, be laid on more thickly, 
and comfits or lemon-peel may be stuck 
into it. 

1301 — SOYEPv'S CHEESECAKES. 

Take four quarts of milk and turn it 
with some fresh runnet ; when dry crum- 
ble it and sift it through a coarse sieve 
into a bowl, beat it well up with a quar- 
ter of a pound of butter until it is quite 
smooth (it may require a little more 
butter, depending on the quality of the 
milk) ; mix in another bowl the yolks of 
four eggs and a quarter of a pound of 
very fine sifted biscuit-powder, the rind 
of four lemons, the jviice of two, a quar- 
ter of a pound of powdered sugar (some 
add a little grated nutmeg or cinnamon), 
beat these all well up together until form- 
ing a stiff" cream, then put it by degrees 
into the bowl with curd, and mix them 
well together; line some tartlet pans, 
previously buttered, with some paste, 
and place some of the above mixture in, 
and bake quick. In some places milk is 
used instead of eggs. Should you not 
have rennet, procure some good milk 
and turn it with the juice of a lemon or 
a teaspoonful of soda or culinary alkali 



436 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



to a quart of milk ; drain the curd, and 
proceed as before. 

1302.— RICHMOND MAIDS OF HONOR. 

These delicious little cakes, which 
every inhabitant of London who pays a 
visit to the most picturesque part of its 
environs knows so well, derive their 
name from a period when cookery was 
not thought to be a degrading occupation 
for those honored with that title. It 
is stated that they originated with the 
maids of honor of Queen Elizabeth, who 
had a palace at Richmond. 

Sift half a pound of dry curd, mix it 
well with six ounces of good butter, 
break the yolks of four eggs into another 
basin, and a glass of brandy ; add to it 
six ounces of powdered lump-sugar, and 
beat well together one very floury 
baked potato cold, one ounce of sweet 
almonds, one ounce of bitter ditto 
pounded, the grated rind of three lemons, 
the juice of one, and half a nutmeg 
grated, mix these well together and add 
to the curds and butter ; stir well up, 
and proceed as before, filling the tartlet- 
pans. 

1308.— PUDDINGS. 

There are two different sorts of paste 
for puddings, one for meat and the other 
for fruit. 

For Meat Puddivg. — To one pound 
of fiour add eight ounces of finely chop- 
ped beef-suet cut from the kidney. Mix 
it with water but do not wet it too much : 
after mixing it well together with a 
wooden spoon, roll out the paste and put 
in the meat ; then close it ; boil it in a 
cloth which has been floured, tie it up, 
but leave sufficient room to permit the 
swelling of the paste. 

Veal-suet may also be used, but that 
of beef is better ; or a mixture of both 
is not bad. If puddings be boiled in 
shapes, the crust is not near so light. 



For Fruit Puddings the paste should 
be made as for a pie — using hutter instead 
of svet ; but, unless for the sake of ap- 
pearance, they should never be boiled in 
shapes. A very little salt added to all 
paste much improves it. 

Sioeet Pudalng. — Very good puddings 
may be made loithout eggs; but they 
should have very little liquid added to 
them, and must boil longer than puddings 
with eggs. A spoonful of yeast will 
serve instead of two eggs, and a pinch of 
soda will make it still lighter. Two 
large spoonfuls of snow will supply the 
place of one egg, and make a pudding 
equally good. This is a useful piece of 
information, as snow generally falls in 
the season when eggs are dear. The 
sooner it is used after it falls the better ; 
but it may be taken up from a clean spot, 
and kept in a cool place some hours, 
without losing its good qualities. Bot- 
tled malt-liquors are also a good substi- 
tute for eggs ; the sooner used after the 
cork is drawn the better. Eggs should 
always be broken separately into a cup 
before they are thrown together, as a 
single bad one might occasion the loss of 
a great many without this precaution : 
the yolks and whites, beaten long and 
separately, make the article they are put 
into much lighter. They must always 
be strained after beating. 

To avoid repetition, let it be observed 
that, when pudding sauce is ordered, 
wine, sugar, and very thick melted but- 
ter, boiled up together, is the sauce in- 
tended. 

If the pudding be partly of bread, the 
cloth should be tied so as to allow for 
swelling ; if of flour, rather more tight. 

Basins or forms are much better in ap- 
pearance than cloths for boiling puddings, 
but it makes them far less light. 

The water should boil quickly, when 
the pudding is put in, and care taken 
that it continues to do so, or the pudding 



SAVOKY PUDDINGS. 



437 



will be heavy ; and it should be moved 
about for a minute or two, that the in- 
gredients may not separate. 

All dishes in which puddings are bak- 
ed should be lined with paste an inch or 
two below the edge, as well as on it ; the 
dish must be first rubbed with butter. 
If a pudding is to be turned out from a 
mould, it must be entirely lined with 
paste. 

The ingredients of puddings should 
not be put into the basin or dish till the 
minute they go into the water or oven. 

Sugo^ and all sorts of seeds, should lie 
in water an hour before they are made 
into puddings, and be well washed ; the 
want of this caution causes an earthy 
taste. 

If the butter be strong that is used in 
puddings, they^will not taste well, what- 
ever good things are added. 

A small pinch of salt improves the 
flavor of all mixtures, even when the other 
ingredients are sweet. 

Weil-made raisin or Cape wine will 
serve, in most cases, when wine is order- 
ed for puddings. 

As the goodness of boiled puddings 
greatly depends upon keeping the in- 
gredients closely but not too compactly 
together, the cook should take care te 
have moulds and basins in readiness 
that will exactly hold the quantity di- 
rected. 

Puddings of bread or flour are much 
better if all the ingredients be mixed (ex- 
cept the eggs) three hours before boiling 
or baking ; and they should be well stir- 
red just before they are put into the oven 
or saucepan. 

Plum-puddings are best boiled in a 
stout cloth well floured ; care should be 
taken that it does not burn to the bottom 
of the kettle ; to prevent this put a plate 
at the bottom. When the pudding is of 
a large size it is best to mix all but the 
liquid ingredients the day before it is 
boiled. 

28 



When butter is ordered to be put 
warm into puddings, the addition of a 
little milk or wine will prevent its 
oiling. 

Cvstard Puddings to look well should 
simmer only, but without stopping. If 
boiled in a quick or careless manner the 
surface will not be smooth, but have little 
holes like honey-comb all over it. A 
sheet of writing-paper, thickly buttered, 
should be put on the top of the mould 
before the lid or cloth is put on. and the 
pudding should stand in the mould five 
minutes after being lifted from the water. 
Many persons prefer their puddings 
steamed, but when this is not done they 
should be put into plenty of boiling 
water, and kept well covered. 

Half an hour should be allowed for 
boiling a 'bread-pudding in a half-pint 
basin, and so on in proportion ; but pud- 
dings made up with half a pound of suet 
and any other ingredients, will require 
two hours. 

1304— SUET PUDDINGS. 

Finely chop one pound of beef suet ; 
mix with it one pound and a quarter of 
flour, two eggs well beaten, a little salt, 
and as little milk as will mix it. Boil 
four hours. It eats well next day cut in 
slices and fried, and may be eaten either 
with salt or sugar. 

Or : — Take eight ounces of grated 
bread, three ounces of finely chopped 
suet, and four ounces of pounded loaf- 
sugar, the juice and grated peel of two 
lemons, and one egg well beaten ; mix all 
together; put it into a buttered basin, 
and boil one hour ; or make it into dump- 
lings, and boil twenty minutes. Serve 
with wine sauce. 

Of veal-suet^ cut the crumb of a 
loaf into sUces ; boil and sweeten two 
quarts of new milk, and pour over 
it. When soaked, pour out a little of 
the milk, and mix with six eggs well 



438 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



beaten and half a nutmeg. Lay the 
slices of bread into a dish, with la3'ers of 
currants and finel}^ chopped veal-snet, 
one pound of each. Batter the dish 
well, and bake ; or you maj^ boil it in a 
basin if you prefer it. 

Balls of siiet-pvdding, not larger than 
the size of an egg, are put into gi'avy 
soup. They will take from twenty min- 
utes to half an hour boiling ; in that time 
they will be done through, and so light as 
to swim to the top. They may be also 
served separately, and are an excellent 
accompaniment to corned beef. 

1805.— BAKED CHICKEN PUDDING. 

Cut up a pair of young chickens, and 
season them with pepper and salt, a little 
nutmeg and allspice. Put them into a 
pot with two large spoonfuls of butter, 
and water enough to cover them. Stew 
them gently, and when about half cooked, 
take them out and set them away to 
cool. Pour off the gravy, and reserve it 
to be served up separately. Make batter of 
a pound of sifted flour, stirred gradually 
into a quart of milk, six eggs well beaten 
and added by degrees to the mixture with 
a very little salt. Put a layer of chicken 
into a very deep dish, and pour over it 
some of the batter ; then another layer 
of chicken and another of batter ; having 
a cover of batter at the top. Bake till 
bro\\ n. Break an egg into the reserved 
sauce, boil up, and serve it in a sauce 
tureen to eat with the pudding. 

1306.— BEEFSTEAK PUDDING. 

Of all savory puddings perhaps those 
made with beef are the best. The follow- 
ing is the mode of making them in all the 
clubs : — 

Take from one pound to one pound and 
a half of the inside of a sirloin of beef, 
or the same quantity of rump-steak, 
cutting off part of the fat : beat it until 
tender, cut it thin, and divide it into 



small slices along with two mutton kid- 
neys or one veal kidney ; to these add a 
dozen of native oysters, bearded. The 
whole is then seasoned with pepper and 
salt and a minced shalot. Boil it from 
two and a half to three hours. When 
done have read/ some strong beef gravy, 
made savory with a little mushroom ket- 
chup ; make a hole in the paste and pour 
it into the pudding. 

If for a family 2mdding, the oysters 
and the kiduej^s may be omitted : let the 
steak be prepared as above, adding, if 
you choose, some layers of sliced 
onions. 

1807.— PLUM PORRIDGE. 

Boil eight pounds of shin of beef for 
five hours in a gallon of water, skimming 
carefully throughout, an4 finally straining 
off the liquor ; add two pounds of meat 
cut small. Soften the crumb of a small 
loaf in some of the liquor, beat it smooth, 
thicken the soup with it, add half a pound 
of stoned raisins, the same quantity of 
stoned prunes, a pound of well washed 
currants, and grated nutmeg, pepper, and 
mace to taste, and boil until the fruit is 
soft, then serve. 

1308.— YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 

Make a batter with a pint of milk, four 
eggs, and four table-spoonfuls of flour, 
seasoned with salt. It is to be well 
stirred, and put into the pan under roast- 
ing beef or baked beef, to be cooked with 
the drippings. It will bake in about two 
hours. Serve it in pieces round the 
meat, on the same dish. 

1309.— GAME PUDDINGS. 

Game of any description may be made 
into puddings, and when partly boned, 
well spiced, with minced truffle or mush- 
room, mace, and a clove of garlic, and 
boiled within a light paste, they are very 
rich, and the paste particularly fine, as it 
absorbs so much of the gravy ; but the 



SAYORT PUDDINGS. 



439 



boiling deprives the game of much of its 
high flavor, and a woodcock or a snipe 
should never be so dressed, as they lose 
all the savor of the trail. 

07' : Make a batter with flour, milk, 
eggs, pepper, and salt ; pour a little into 
the bottom of a pudding-dish ; then put 
seasoned poultry or game of any kind 
into it, and a little shred onion ; pour 
the remainder of the batter over, and 
bake in a slow oven. 

A single chicken, partridge, or pigeon 
may be thus made into a dumpling : — 
Stuff it with chopped oysters, lay it on 
its back in the paste, and put a bit of 
butter rolled in flour on the breast ; close 
the paste in the form of a dumpling, put 
into hot water, and let it boil for two 
hours. 

1310.— MAEEOW PUDDING. 

Grate the inside of part of a stale 
loaf. Make a quart of milk quite hot, 
and pour over it, letting it remain till it 
is sufficiently swelled and soaked. Shred 
half a pound of marrow, or good suet, 
and beat up four eggs. Pick and plump 
up two ounces of currants, and stone two 
ounces of the best raisins. Mix them all 
up together ; stir in a few blanched al- 
monds, and a little candied citron, and 
orange and lemon peel. Sweeten the 
pudding to your taste, and season it with 
grated nutmeg apd powdered cinnamon. 
Cover a stoneware, flat dish, round the 
edge, with a shred of puff-paste, and 
mark it neatly. If baked in a flat dish, 
twenty-five minutes will be sufficient ; if 
in a deep dish it will require half an hour. 
A little finely pounded lump sugar is 
sometimes strewed over the top, and 
blanched almonds, sliced, stuck round for 
ornament. This is a very light and de- 
licate baked pudding. It is sometimes 
boiled in a shape. — This makes a delicious 
dish. 



1311.— HEEB PUDDING. 

Pick two handfuls of parsley-leaves 
from the stems, half the quantity of 
spinach, two hearts of lettuces, a large 
handful of mustard and cress, a few 
leaves of white beet, and a small handful 
of chives : wash, and boil all together 
three minutes ; drain the water from 
them, and mash very fine ; mix well, and 
add salt and pepper. Have ready a 
batter, made of one ounce of flour, a pint 
of thin cream and two eggs ; stir it into 
the herbs, and cover the dish with a good 
crust. 

This pudding has much the flavor of 
omelet ; and in Lent, when the salads are 
all coming into season, it may be very 
aptly brought to table on fast-days. 

Tansy -Pudding. — Pound a handful of 
green tansy in a mortar ; add the juice to 
a pint of batter and bake it. 

1812.— GOOSE PUDDING. 

Half a pound of bread-crumbs soaked 
in a little boiling milk, when cold, add 
two or three eggs, a little salt, pepper, 
marjoram, and thyme, a spoonful of oat- 
meal, a good handful of suet, and an onion 
chopped fine. Spread it in a dripping- 
pan, and bake it under the goose. 

SWEET PUD DINGS. 

Under this head the plum-pudding 
stands foremost as a truly national dish. 
The following receipt, communicated by 
a man-cook of much experience, we can 
vouch for as an excellent way of mak- 
ing a 

1313.— EICH PLUM PUDDING. 

Stone carefully one pound of the best 
raisins, wash and pick one pound of cur- 
rants,* chop very small one pound of fresh 

* The best method of cleansing currants is to put 
them into a common colander, over a pan with suf- 
ficient water to cover them, rub them well between 



beef suet, blanch and chop small or pound 
two ounces of sweet almonds and one 
ounce of bitter ones ; mix the who'e well 
together, with one pound of sifted flour, 
and the same weight of crumb of bread 
soaked in milk, then squeezed dry and 
stirred with a spoon until reduced to a 
mash, before it is mixed with the flour. 
Cut in small pieces two ounces each of 
preserved citron, orange, and lemon-peel, 
and add a quarter of an ounce of mixed 
spice : a quarter of a pound of moist 
sugar should be put into a basin, with 
eight eggs, and well beaten together with 
a three-pronged fork ; stir this with the 
pudding, and make it of a proper con- 
sistence with milk. Remember that it 
must not be made too thin, or the fruit 
will sink to the bottom, but be made to 
the consistence of good thick batter. 
Two wine-glassfuls of brandy should be 
poured over the fruit and spice, mixed 
together in a basin, and, allowed to stand 
three or four hours before the pudding is 
made, stirring them occasionally. It 
must be tied in a cloth, and will take 
five hours of constant boiling. When 
done, turn it out on a dish, sift loaf-sugar 
over the top, and serve it with wine-sauce 
in a boat, and some poured round the 
pudding. 

The pudding will be of considerable 
size, but half the quantity of materials 
used in the same proportion, will be 
equally good. 

In addition to the wine-sauce, have a 
metal sauce-boat filled with brandy ; set 
it alight on the table, and pour a portion 
of it in a flame upon each shoe of pud- 
ding. 

1814.— ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING. (Original- 
One pound of fine white flour, sifted ; 

the hands in the water to separate the knobs, and 
stir them about. The small sand and gravel will 
then fall through tlie holes and sink to the bottom 
of the pan. After being washed clean, and the 
water drained from thcin, the large stones can then 
be easily picked out by sorting thorn over on a large 
dish. 



add a little salt ; one pound of beef suet 
chopped as fine as meal, one pound of 
brown sugar, one pound of stoned rai- 
sins, one pound of Zante currants, three- 
quarters of a pound of citron, one nut- 
meg, one teaspoonful of allspice, one 
ditto of cloves, two ditto of mace, grate 
in the rind of three large fresh lemons. 
Weigh each article after it is prepared, 
allowing for the moisture in the currants, 
as they cannot be dried perfectly. Mix 
the ingredients together very thorough- 
ly*; first, the flour and suet — then add 
the other articles and rub the mixture 
again ; this should be done the day be- 
fore the pudding is to be cooked. 

Immediately before the final mixture, 
add ten eggs, well beaten, one gill of 
milk and one of brandy. Tie the mix- 
ture in a well buttered cloth, and boil 
for seven hours. The cloth used should 
be very strong. 

To be served with brandy-sauce, and 
brought to the table in burning brandy. 

1315.— THE BAKED PLUM PUDDING. 
Ten crackers soaked in milk, five eggs, 
one pound of raisins, half a pound of 
suet, half a pound of chopped apple, two 
glasses of brandy, dark spice and mace, 
salt to the taste — half a pound of citron, 
sugar to the taste. Bake three hours 
and serve with cold sauce. 

1316.— GEOUND EICE PUDDING. (Mrs. G.'s 
Eeceipt). 

Boil half a pound of rice in five pints 
of milk; add half a pound of butter, 
three-quarters of sugar, ten eggs, two 
nutmegs, and mace with a little salt : 
bake in a dish. 

181T — MAELBOEOUGH PUDDING. (Furnished 
by a Lady of New York.) 

Stew eighteen apples and strain them ; 
add a quarter of a pound of melted but- 
ter, with rosewater, ten eggs, the juice 
and rind of two lemons, sugar to taste, 
and bake in paste. 



SWEET PUDDINGS. 



441 



1318.— BOSTON PUDDING. 

Make a good common paste with a 
pound and a half of flour, and three- 
quarters of a pound of butter. When 
you roll it out the last time, cut off the 
edges till you get the sheet of paste of 
an even square shape. Have ready some 
fruit, sweetened to your taste. If cran- 
berries. goosebeiTies, dried peaches, or 
damsons ; they should be stewed, and 
made very sweet. If apples, they should 
be stewed in a very Uttle water, drained, 
and seasoned with nutmeg, rosewater, 
and lemon. If currants, raspberries, or 
blackberries, they should be mashed with 
sugar, and put into the pudding raw. 
Spread the fruit very thick, all over the 
sheet of paste (which must not be rolled 
out too thin). When it is covered all 
over with the fruit, roll it up and cloge 
the dough at both ends, and down the 
last side. Tie the pudding in a cloth, 
and boil it. Eat it with sugar. It must 
not be taken out of the pot till just be- 
fore it is brought to table. 

1319.— ALMOND PUDDING- AND SAUCE. 

A large cupful of finely-minced beef 
suet, a teacupful of milk, four ounces of 
bread-crumbs, four ounces of well cleaned 
currants, two ounces of almonds, half a 
pound of stoned raisins, three well beaten 
eggs, and the whites of other two ; sugar, 
nutmeg, and cinnamon, and a small glass 
of rum. Butter a shape, and place part 
of the raisins neatly in rows. Blanch 
the almonds ; reserve the half of them 
to be placed in rows between the raisins 
just before serving. Mix all the remain- 
ing ingredients well together, put into 
the shape, and boil three hours. The 
satice — one teaspoonful of milk, and two 
yolks of eggs well beaten, and some 
sugar ; place on the fire and stir till it 
j^ist comes to the boil, then let it cool. 
When lukewarm, stir into it a glass of 
sherry or currant wine, and serve in a 



sauce tureen. This sauce is a great im- 
provement to raisin pudding. 

1820.— POLKA PUDDING. 

Mix four table-spoonfuls of arrow-root 
in a pint of cold milk. Beat four eggs 
well, add them, three ounces of fresh 
butter, cut into small bits ; a dessert- 
spoonful of rosewater ; a few drops of 
essence of lemon, or ratafia, and a tea- 
cupful of sugar. Boil two pints of milk 
in a saucepan ; when boiling stir in the 
other ingredients ; without taking the 
pan off" the fire, let it boil till thick, then 
pour into a mould to cool. Turn it out 
and serve it cold. 

1321.— JENNY LIND'S PUDDING. 

Grate the crumb of half a loaf, butter 
and dish well and lay in a thick layer of 
the crumbs ; pare ten or twelve apples, 
cut them down, and put a layer of them 
and sugar ; then crumbs alternately, 
until the dish is full ; put a bit of butter 
on the top, and bake it in an oven, or 
American refiector. An excellent and 
economical pudding. 

1322.— NEWCASTLE PUDDING. 

Butter a basin or mould, stick it all 
round with sultanas or dried cherries, 
then put in a slice of bread-crumb soaked 
in milk, and over that layers of thin 
bread-crumb buttered, until three parts 
filled ; fill up with custard, and boil for 
an hour and a half. 

1323.— EICHELIEU PUDDING. 

Steep the crumb of a large slice of 
bread in milk, warm as from the cow ; 
let it rest, and then strain ofi" the milk ; 
beat up the yolk of an egg, mix it with 
the bread, also a bit of butter ; put it 
into a saucepan, and boil till it becomes 
stiiF; let it cool, and then add some 
chopped parsley, thyme, pepper and salt ; 
beat up two eggs ; mince about one 



442 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



pound of any cold meat, and add all to- 
gether. Boil in a basin for three hours, 
and when dished, pour a good gravy 
over it. 

1824.— PARADISE PUDDING. 

Take three eggs, three apples pared, 
cored, and cut small, three ounces each 
of the crumb of French rolls, sugar, and 
cunants. a little nutmeg an 1 salt, the 
rind of a lemon pared very tliin and cut 
very fine, and a wine-glassful of brandy 
or white wine ; stir well, pour into a but- 
tered mould, and boil for an hour ; then 
serve with melted butter, wine and sugar. 

1325.— HASTY PUDDING. 
Set some milk on the fire, and, when 
it boils, put in a little salt. Stir in by 
degrees as much flour as will make it of 
a proper thickness. Let it boil quickly 
a few minutes, beating it constantly while 
on the fire. Pour it into a dish, and eat 
it with cold butter and sugar. Some 
persons add eggs to this. 

1826.— HASTY PUDDING. 

Boil water, a quart, three pints, or 
two q_uarts, according to the size of your 
family ; sift your meal, stir five or six 
spoonfuls of it thoroughly into a bowl of 
water ; when the water in the kettle 
boils, pour into it the contents of the 
bowl ; stir it well and let it boil up thick ; 
put in salt to suit your own taste, then 
stand over the kettle, and sprinkle in 
meal, handful after handful, stirring it 
very thoroughly all the time, and letting 
it boil between whiles. When it is so 
thick that you stir it with difficulty, it is 
;ibout right. It takes about half an 
hour's cooking. Eat it with milk or 
molasses. Either Indian meal or rye 
meal may be u.sed. If the system is in a 
restricted state, nothing can be better 
than rye hasty pudding and West India 
molasses. This diet would save many a 
one fj-om the horrors of dyspepsia. 



1327.— TO MAKE AN ALMOND PUD- 
DING. 

Pound in your mortar a quarter of a 
pound of sweet almonds, add a table- 
spoonful of water when you are pound- 
ing, take it out of the mortar; have 
ready broken sev2n eggs, leaving out five 
of the whites, add a quarter of a pound 
of sifted sugar, mix all lightly together ; 
cut in small dice a little candy, orange, 
and lemon-peel, butter and paper a plain 
mould, or one that will open ; bake it in 
a moderate oven. 

1828.— FAPvINA PUDDING. 

One quart of milk, six eggs, eight table- 
spoonfuls of flour, three tablespoonfuls 
of farina, one teaspoonful of salt. 

Boil the milk ; while boiling, sift into 
it the farina ; bi'at the eggs, yolks and 
whites separately ; stir into the yolks the 
flour and salt, and cold milk enough to 
make a stiff batter ; then stir in the 
whites, and, lastly, the boiling milk. 
Butter a baking dish, and bake for half 
an hour. Eat with wine sauce, or sugar 
and butter. 

1829.— A BAKED APPLE DUMPLING. 

Pare and quarter four large apples, 
boil them tender with the rind of a lemon 
in so little water that nothing may re- 
main when done but the juice ; add the 
crumb of a small roll, four ounces butter, 
melted, the yolks of five and whites of 
three eggs, the juice of half a lemon, and 
sugar to taste ; beat all together, and lay 
it in a dish ; then beat the two remain- 
ing whites to a froth, and throw it round 
the edge of the dish ; grate a little white 
sugar over when baked. 

1330.— LEMON PUDDING. 

Half a pound of flour, or grated 
bread, half a pound of suet cut very 
fine, half a pound of crushed sugar, the 



rind of two lemons, and the juice of 
one, two eggs ; boil it four hours in a 
shape. Served up without sauce it is 
excellent. 



1331.— A PLAIN EICE PUDDING. 

To make a plain rice pudding, boil a 
pint of rice until it is quite soft. Mix 
two ounces of butter and four table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, a quart of rich milk 
with the rice, boil them up together and 
let them partially cool. Beat five eggs 
until they are quite light and stir them 
into the rice. It should bake about an 
hour. 

1332.— EICE MILK. 

This dish is an excellent one, and very 
simply and quickly made. After wash- 
ing a pint of rice in two different waters, 
boil it well with about half a pound of 
raisins from which the stems have been 
carefully picked. Pour off the water, 
and mix a quart of rich milk with the 
rice. Let it boil for about five minutes, 
and after mixing with it four table-spoon- 
fuls of brown sugar, beat two eggs until 
they are light, and pour them into the 
milk, stirring it all the time. After the 
rice and eggs are well mixed together, 
they should boil from three to five min- 
utes. If they are not well stirred, the 
eggs will form a custard on the surface, 
which is not desirable. 

1333.— BIED'S NEST PUDDING. 

If you wish to make what is called 
"bird's nest puddings," prepare your 
custard, — take eight or ten pleasant ap- 
ples, pare them, dig out the core, but 
leave them whole, set them in a pudding- 
dish, pour your custard over them, and 
bake them about thirty minutes. 

1334.-OEANGE PUDDING. 

Wash half a pound of butter until all 



the salt is extracted, then mix it well 
with half a pound of powdered white 
sugar, and a wine-glass of brandy — wine 
may be used but it is not as good. Grate 
the rind of three ordinary-sized oranges 
and squeeze their juice. Beat together 
six fresh eggs, and stir them into the but- 
ter and sugar, after which, add the pre- 
pared orange. Lay a border of pufi- 
paste around the pudding-dish, and then 
bake from half to three quarters of an 
hour. Serve it cold, and grate over 
white sugar mixed with a little nutmeg. 
The latter ingredient, however, is not 
generally preferred. Lemon Pudding 
may be made in the same manner ; 
substituting lemons for oranges. 

1335.— QUINCE PUDDING. 

Pare six large quinces, cut out the 
cores and blemishes, chop them as fine as 
possible, and boil them two hours with 
as little water as possible, stirring them 
frequently that they may not burn. 
Drain off the water and mix them, when 
cold, with a pint of cream and half a 
pound of powdered sugar. 

1336.— APPLE DUMPLINGS. 

Pare and scoop out the core of six 
large baking apples, put part of a clove, 
and a little grated lemon-peel, inside of 
each, and enclose them in pieces of puff 
paste ; boil them in nets for the purpose, 
or bits of linen, for an hour. Before 
serving, cut off a small bit from the top 
of each, and put in a tea-spoonful of 
sugar, and a bit of fresh butter ; replace 
the bit of paste, and strew over them 
pounded loaf sugar. 

1337.— BATTEE PUDDING. 

Into a pint and a half of sifted flour 
stir gradually, so that it may not be 
lumpy, a quart of milk. Beat seven 
eggs, and put in, together with a couple 



M4 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSP^KEEPEE. 



of table-spoonfuls of melted butter, and a 
couple of teaspoonfuls of salt. Grate in 
half a nutmeg — add, if you want the 
pudding very rich, half a pound of raisins. 
They should not be put into a baked pud- 
ding till it has been cooking long enough 
to thicken, so that the raisins will not 
sink to the bottom of it. A pudding 
made in this manner is good either baked 
or boiled. It takes two hours to boil, 
and an hour and a quarter to bake it. 
When boiled, the bag should not be more 
than two-thirds full, as flour puddings 
swell very much. It should be put into 
boiling water, and kept boiling constantly. 
If the water boils away, so as to leave 
any part of the bag uncovered, more 
boiling water should be added. When 
the pudding has boiled eight or nine 
minutes, the bag should be turned over, 
otherwise the pudding will be heavy. 
Flour puddings should be eaten as soon 
as cooked, as they fall directly. Serve 
them up with rich. sauce. 

1888.— SAGO PUDDING. 
Pick, wash, and dry half a pound of 
currants ; and put in such spices as best 
suit the taste of those who are to eat it. 
Have ready six table-spoonfuls of sago, 
picked clean, and soaked for two hours 
in cold water. Boil the sago in a quart 
of milk till quite soft. Then stir alter- 
nately into the milk, a quarter of a pound 
of butter, and six ounces of powered 
sugar, and set it away to cool. Beat 
eight eggs, and when they are quite light, 
stir them gradually into the milk, sago, 
&c. Add the spice, and lastly the cur- 
rants ; having dredged them well with 
flour to prevent their sinking. Stir the 
whole very hard, put it into a buttered 
dish, and bake it three-quarters of an 
hour. It may be eaten cold. 

1839.— TAPIOCA PUDDING. 

To two quart,s of warm milk put eight 
table-spoonfuls of tapioca, four beaten 



eggs, a table-spoonful of butter, and cin- 
namon or mace to the taste. Mix four 
table-spoonfuls of white powdered -sugar 
and a wine-glass of wine, and stir it into 
the rest of the ingredients. Turn the 
whole into a pudding dish that has a 
lining of pastry and bake it immedi- 
ately. 

1340.— INDIAN PUDDING. 

Sift a pint of Indian meal and scald it 
with boiling water. Place over the fire 
a quart of milk, cut up a quarter of a 
pound of butter and melt it in the hot 
milk — add a pint of sugar-house molas- 
ses, and mix them together until the 
milk boils. Stir it into the meal, mixing 
it well with a wooden spoon. Beat 
seven eggs, until they are perfectly light, 
pour them into the bowl that holds the 
meal, with ten drops of the essence of 
lemon, or a little lemon-juice. 

Stir the mixture until it seems quite 
light, and bake it in a moderately hot 
oven. 

1341.— A BAKED BKEAD PUDDING. 

This is a very excellent dish when 
properly mixed. Crumble half a loaf of 
bread, a stale loaf is preferable, and cut 
up the crust as small as possible. Boil 
a quart of milk, cut up a quarter of a 
pound of butter in slices, and melt it in 
the hot milk — add six table-spoonfuls of 
sugar. Pour the milk over- the bread, 
and mix with it a glass of good brandy. 
Brandy in which lemon-peel has been 
soaked for some time, is the best for this 
purpose, and gives a fine flavor to the 
pudding. Beat seven eggs quite light, 
and stir them into the mixture. If the 
pudding is to be placed immediately in 
the oven, it is not necessary that the 
mixture should cool before the eggs are 
added. 

This pudding in a brisk oven will bake 
in less than an hour. 



SWEET PUDDmGS. 



445 



1342— DEMI-PLUM PUDDING. 

Prepare the mould, then add a layer 
of plum pudding, broken in pieces, that 
has been left from the previous day, al- 
ternately, till full ; fi] 1 up with custard, 
and steam or bake for thirty minutes. 
The remains of any kind of pudding- 
may be used thus. 

1843.— MACARONI PUDDING. 

Simmer an ounce or two of macaroni 
in a pint of milk, with a bit of lemon- 
peel and cinnamon, till soft ; put it into 
a dish with milk, the yolk of three eggs 
and the white of one, some sugar, nut- 
meg, a spoonful of almond water, and 
half a glass of raisin wine ; put a nice 
paste round the edge of the dish, and 
bake it. 

A layer of orange marmalade or rasp- 
berry jam may be used instead of the 
almond water or ratafia. 

1344.— OATMEAL PUDDING. 

Take a pint of the best fine oatmeal, 
pour a quart of boiling milk over it, and 
let it soak all night ; the next day put it 
in a basin just large enough to hold it, 
add two eggs beaten, and a little salt, 
cover it tight with a floured cloth, and 
boil it an hour and a half. It may be 
eaten hot, with cold butter and salt ; or 
cold, sliced and toasted. 

1345.— GROUND RICE PUDDING. 

In a pint of new milk boil two dessert- 
spoonfuls of ground rice, adding a small 
piece of lemon-peel and a little cinna- 
mon. Keep it stirring while boiliag, and 
let it boil ten minutes, then let it cool ; 
when cold add sugar to taste, a couple of 
well beaten eggs, and some nutmeg. 
Line your dish with a puff' paste., pour 
in your rice, and bake a light brown. 

1846.— PUDDING WITH FRUIT. 

Fruit puddings are best made in a 



basin, the basin to be buttered and lined 
with the paste, and then filled with the 
fruit, which cover with the paste; the 
paste should be rolled round to the thick- 
ness of half an inch, and when the fruit 
is in, drawn to the centre, and squeezed, 
and then tied up in a cloth kept on pur- 
pose, and boiled in plenty of water ; when 
done, which ^vill be in time according to 
the nature of the fruit you put in it ; 
serve it either turned out of the basin or 
not. The cover should be of the same 
thickness as the sides. Sugar should be 
added before being covered. 

1847.-COCOA-NUT PUDDING. 

Remove the shell of the cocoa-nut and 
cut the brown skin away, cut the nut in 
pieces and place it in cold water, remove 
it and wipe it dry, grate about a quarter 
of a pound of a large one, very fine, into 
a plate. Place in a basin a quarter of a 
pound of powdered white sugar, and three 
ounces and a half of fresh butter, stir 
them together till it becomes like cream ; 
add to it a table- spoonful of brand}', 
and about four drops of either essence of 
vanille, or any other essence whose flavor 
may be preferred. Place the white of 
six eggs into a bowl, and beat them well 
up ; then add gradually the butter and 
sugar, which keep stirring at the same 
time ; add by degrees the cocoa-nut. 
Cover a pie dish with puff" paste, place 
the mixture in it, and bake in a mode- 
rate oven for about half an hour. Glaze 
it with powdered sugar and powdered 
cinnamon mixed. 

1848.— AN APPLE CHARLOTTE. 

Pare and slice a quantity of apples ; 
cut off" the crust of a loaf, and cut slices 
of bread and butter. Butter the inside 
of a pie dish, and place bread and butter 
all round ; then put in a layer of apples 
sprinkled with lemon-peel, chopped very 
fine, and a considerable quantity of good 



446 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



brown sugar. Then put on a layer of 
bread and butter, and another of apples, 
lemon-peel, and sugar, until the dish is 
full, squeezing over the juice of lemons, 
so that every part shall be equally fla- 
vored. Cover up the dish with the 
crusts of the bread and the peels of the 
apples, to prevent it from browning or 
burning : bake it one hour and a quarter ; 
then take oft" the peels and the crust, 
and turn it out of the dish. 

1849— HEDGEHOG— TO MAKE. 

Blanch two pounds of sweet almonds, 
pound them to a paste in a mortar, 
moisten occasionally with canary and 
orange -flower water; beat the yolks of 
twelve and the whites of five eggs with a 
pint of cream and some powdered sugar, 
put this with the almond paste and half 
a pound of fresh butter in a saucepan, set 
it over a stove, and keep it constantly 
stirring till firm enough to be moulded 
into the shape of a hedgehog ; stick it full 
of blanched almonds cut lengthwise into 
slips and placed in a dish ; beat up the 
yolks of four eggs, put them to a pint of 
cream, sweeten to your taste, stir them 
over a slow fire till hot, then pour it 
round the hedgehog, and let it stand till 
cold, serve it. 

A good calf's-foot jelly may be poured 
round it if preferred. 

1850.— TRIFLES 

Should be made early in the day on 
which they are wanted ; take a stale 
sponge cake, cut it in slices of one inch 
thick, and lay it on the bottom of the 
dish ; lay on that a thin layer of any 
kind of marmalade, jam, or jelly, have 
some macaroons and ratafia cakes, and 
lay on and cover the whole with some 
sponge cakes. For a dish nine inches in 
diameter, mix two glasses of sherry, one 
of brandy, half a one of rum. and the 
same of noyeau, and pour over, and let it 



remain until it is well soaked, then pour 
over about one inch thick of rich custard, 
put a pint of cream into a bowl, with 
some sifted sugar, a squeeze of a lemon, 
and about a table-spoonful of the wine, 
&c., you have put on the cake, whisk it 
well up. I use a trifle-churn, which 
saves some trouble ; I also use it for 
all whipped cream ; and as the froth rises 
remove it with a spoon upon a clean 
sieve, where let it drain, then place it on 
the custard until it is high and hand- 
some. 

I have occasionally, when being in a 
hurry, and having no cream bj^ me, pro- 
ceeded as above, and made the whip with 
the whites of eggs, and some very white 
peach or egg-plum marmalade together, 
until it makes firm froth or whip, which 
put on the custard ; this may also be col- 
ored a nice pink. 

1851 —BROWN BREAD PUDDING 

May be made with half a pound of 
stale brown bread coarsely grated, half 
a pound of Valencia raisins cut in halves, 
the same of chopped suet, sugar and nut- 
meg. Mix with four eggs, two spoonfuls 
of brandy, and two of cream ; boil it for 
three or four hours in a cloth or basin 
that exactly holds it. Serve with sweet 
sauce. 

Prunes, or French plums, instead of 
raisins, make a fine pudding, either with 
suet or bread. 

1352.— BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. 

Make a custard of one egg and half a 
pint of milk, by boiling the milk with a 
little lemon-peel and sugar, and beating 
up the egg in it, putting it on the fire to 
thicken ; butter slices of bread or French 
roll, and soak them for an hour or two in 
this mixture ; then lay them in a dish, 
sprinkling currants between each layer, 
with a little pounded sugar ; and, if 
meant to be very nice, put some sweet- 



SWEET PUDDINGS. 



447 



meats on the top ; but both the fruits and 
the sweetmeats may be omitted if thought 
proper. Pour over it another half a pint 
of milk beaten up with two eggs. 

1853.— BOSTON CRACKER PUDDINGS. 

On three grated Boston crackers pour 
a pint of boiling cream ; when cold add a 
teaspoonful of cinnamon in finest powder, 
the yolks of four and whites of two eggs, 
a spoonful of orange-flower water or ra- 
tafia, two ounces of loaf-sugar, and half 
a spoonful of flour, or almond flour, 
rubbed smooth. 

1854.— VERMI CELLI. 

BaJcerl. — Simmer four ounces of vermi- 
celli in a pint of new milk ten minutes ; 
then put to it half a pint of cream, a tea- 
spoonful of pounded cinnamon, four 
ounces of butter warmed, the same of 
white sugar, and the yolks of four eggs, 
well beaten ; a little oil of almonds or a 
couple of spoonfuls of ratafia will much 
improve the flavor. Bake in a dish with- 
out a lining. 

Boiled. — Stir very gently four ounces 
of vermicelli into a pint of new milk over 
the stove, until it be scalding hot, but 
not more ; then pour it into a basin, and 
add to it while hot one ounce of butter 
and two of sugar. When the above is 
nearly cold, mix in it, very gently, two 
well beaten eggs, and immediately put it 
into a basin that will exactly hold it. 
Cover carefully with a floured cloth ; and 
turning the basin the narrow end up- 
wards, move it round for ten minutes, 
and boil an hour. Serve with pudding- 
sauce. 

1855.— MUFFIN AND CRUMPET PUDDING. 

A very dehcate pudding may be made 
in a short time from a couple of mufiins 
and three crumpets, placed alternately 
in layers, and either boiled or baked in 
batter. If boiled, they should be placed 
in an earthen jar, buttered on the inside, 



filled with the batter, and covered on the 
top. The muffins should be split open, 
and currant jelly, slices of apple, or any 
sort of fruit may be inserted. 

Or : — Half a dozen crumpets may be 
boiled without any fruit, after being dip 
ped and covered in batter ; seasoned only 
with sugar and a little nutmeg. 

1856.— CHOCOLATE PUDDING. 

Boil a pint of new milk ; dissolve in it 
one ounce of chocolate ; sweeten it with 
loaf-sugar ; add the yolks of eight and 
the whites of four eggs well beaten ; 
strain and pour it into a plain mould but- 
tered and papered ; steam it for a half an 
hour ; let it settle for ten minutes, and 
serve with the following sauce : — Boil a 
half a stick of vanilla in a pint of milk 
till it is reduced one-half; strain it, 
sweeten with loaf-sugar, and thicken 
with arrowroot. 

1357.— SPONGE PUDDING. 

Butter a mould thickly, and fill it 
three parts full with small sponge-cakes, 
soaked through with wine ; fill up the 
mould with a rich cold custard. Butter 
a paper, and put on the mould ; then tie 
a floured cloth over it quite close, and 
boil it an hour. Turn out the pudding 
carefullj', and pour some cold custard 
over it. 

Or: — Bake it, and serve with wine- 
sauce instead of custard. 

1858.— QUAKING PUDDING. 
Scald a quart of cream ; when almost 
cold put to it four eggs well beaten, one 
spoonful and a half of flour, some nut- 
meg and sugar ; tie it close in a buttered 
cloth, boil it an hour, and turn it out 
with care, lest it should crack. Serve 
with wine-sauce. 

1859.— BRANDY PUDDING. 

Line a mould with jar raisins stoned, 



448 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



or dried cherries, then with thin slices of 
French roll, next to which put ratafias, 
or macaroons ; then again fruit, rolls, 
and cakes in succession until the mould 
be full, sprinkling in, at times, two wine- 
glassfuls of brandy. Beat up four eggs, 
yolks and whites ; put to a pint of milk 
or cream, lightly sweetened, half a 
nutmeg, and the rind of a half a lemon 
finely grated. Let the liquid sink into 
the solid part ; then flour a cloth, tie it 
tight over, and boil one hour. Keep the 
mould the right side up. Serve with 
pudding-sauce. 

1360.— A BLACK-CAP PUDDING. 
Rub three table-spoonfuls of flour, 
smooth, by degrees into a pint of milk, 
strain it, and simmer it over the fire until 
it thickens ; stir in two ounces of butter ; 
when cool, add the yolks of four eggs 
beaten and strained, and a half a pound 
of currants washed and picked, laid at 
the bottom of the basin or mould previ- 
ously well buttered. Put the batter into 
the mould, cover it tight, and plunge it 
into boiling water ; the currants down- 
wards, that they may stick to the bottom 
and thus form the black-cap. 

1361.— A SWEETMEAT PUDDING. 

Cover a dish with thin puff-pastej and 
lay in it freshly candied orange, lemon, 
and citron, one ounce each, sliced thin. 
Beat the yolks of eight and the whites 
of two eggs, and mix with eight ounces 
of butter warmed, but not oiled, and 
eight ounces of white sugar. Pour the 
mixture over the sweetmeats, and bake 
one hour in a moderate oven. 

1362.— ORANGE PUDDING 

May be made with six ripe oranges, 
large, juicy, of the best kind, and 
peeled ; the rinds to be beaten in a mor- 
tar with half a pound each of fresh 
butter and moist sugar, to which add the 
yolks of six or eight eggs, and make the 



whole into a batter with the juice of 
only three of the oranges : the number of 
eggs to be regulated by the size of the 
fruit. Put the materials into a mould, 
with a paste around but not over it, and 
bake it for half an hour. 

186-3.— EOLY-POLY PUDDING. 

Make a rich pudding-paste with flour 
and butter, without suet, but as light as 
possible. Roll it out thin, and cut it to 
the breadth of eight or ten inches, mak- 
ing it at the same time as long as you 
please ; but half of a pound of flour 
and five ounces of butter, wetted with 
water, will probably be suflBcient when 
rolled out quite smooth ; then spread 
upon it a thick layer of raspberry, cur- 
rant, or any other sort of jam, but leave 
about an inch of all the edges bare. 
That done, roll it round; the roll of 
paste will secure the fruit, and the ends 
must be twisted together for the same 
purpose. Wrap it in a nicely floured 
cloth, and boil it for two to three hours 
according to size. 

Take it up quite hot, and when served 
cut it crosswise. It may appear homely, 
but it is an excellent and much-admired 
pudding. 

1364.— A VERY FINE GERMAN PUD- 
DING. 

Pour half a pint of boiling milk upon 
one pound of bread-crumbs ; beat up a 
quarter of a pound of fresh butter to a 
cream ; add to it the yolks of ten eggs 
well beaten ; drain the milk from the 
bread, and add the bread with a quarter 
of a pound of pounded sugar and the 
grated peel of a lemon ; whip the whites 
of the ten eggs into a solid froth, and 
add them the last thing : butter a cloth, 
and put the pudding in, tying it loose, as 
it will swell out a good deal ; plunge it 
into boiling water; boil one hour. Some 
persons add a quarter of a pound of jar 
raisins slit and stoned. When turned 



SWEET PUDDINGS. 



449 



out stick the surface with sliced almonds, 
and serve with the following sauce : — 
Take one pint of cream, one pint of sweet 
raisin wine, four ounces of sugar rubbed 
on the peel of a lemon, and let them 
boil ; add the yolks of six eggs well 
beaten, and the juice of the lemon ; 
mix them well ; make the sauce quite 
hot, but do not let it boil again ; pour 
some over the pudding, serving the re- 
mainder in a sauce boat. 

1365.— POUDING A LA NES8ELE0DE. 

(From an eminent Hotel-keeper.) 

For a two-quart mould boil a suflScient 
quantity of chestnuts to produce a quart 
of meal after being pounded and rubbed 
through a tammy. Boil three-quarters 
of a pound of sugar in one pint of water, 
with a stick of vanilla, until it is reduced 
one-third. Boil one pint of cream, add 
it to the chestnut-flour, then add the 
syrup and twelve yolks of eggs beat up ; 
set it over the fire, stir it until it nearly 
boils. When cold, put the composition 
into a freezing-pot; when it is frozen, 
add half a pint of whipped cream, three 
whites of eggs whipped up strong, a 
handful of raisins stoned, chopped, and 
soaked for a day in maraschino, as many 
currants, one cup and a half of chopped 
candied lemon-peel, and a glass of maras- 
chino ; stir these ingredients all well to- 
gether, freeze it again, and put it into 
the mould. 

1366.— PAIN PERDU. 

Beat eggs with salt, sugar and orange- 
flower water ; cut slices of bread, soak 
in boiling milk, drain, and dip them in 
the egg; fry them in hot butter. Sift 
sugar over them, and serve hot with 
wine sauce. 

1367.— A CHAETREUSE OF APPLES AND 
RICE. 

Boil six ounces of rice with a stick 
of cinnamon in milk until it is thick, 
stirring in a spoonful of rose-water or 



orange-flower water. Pare ten or twelve 
apples — golden pippins are the best — 
scoop out the core, and fill up the 
orifice with raspberry-jam. Border a 
deep dish with paste; put in the ap- 
ples, leaving a space between, and fill it 
up with the rice. Brush the whole over 
with the yolk of an egg, and sift sugar 
thickly over it; form a pattern on the 
top, with sweetmeats, and bake it for one 
hour in a quick oven. 

1368.— MIROTON OF APPLES. 

Scald the apples, reduce them to a 
pulp, and pile them high upon the dish 
in which they are to be served ; boil one 
teaspoonful of grated lemon-peel and six 
or eight lumps of sugar in a teacupful of 
water ; then add the yolks of three eggs 
and the white of one, half an ounce of 
butter, one spoonful of flour, and one of 
brandy; mix the whole together over 
the fire, and stir it quite smooth. Pour 
it upon the apples, then whisk the whites 
of the other two eggs to a froth ; put 
them over the miroton just as it is going 
into the oven, and sift some sugar over 
it. The oven must be slow : it will take 
ten or fifteen minutes to bake. 

1369— TO MAKE BATTER FOR FRUIT PUP- 
DINGS. 

Put half a pound of flour and a salt- 
spoonful of salt into a pan, add very 
gently half a pint of milk ; if mixed 
carelessly the flour will remain in lumps ; 
beat up the whites of four eggs, strain 
them to the batter, and beat it well with 
a wooden spoon. The whites should be 
beaten separately to a solid froth, and 
not added till just before the batter is 
used. For fruit the batter should be 
rather thicker than when plain, to pre- 
vent the fruit from sinking to the bot- 
tom of the dish or basin, as it is equally 
good baked or boiled. It must be brought 
to a proper consistency by adding milk. 



1370.— OXFORD DUMPLINGS. 

Of grated bread two ounces, currants 
and shred suet four ounces each, two 
large spoonfuls of flour, a great deal of 
grated lemon-peel, a bit of sugar, and a 
little pimento in fine powder. Mix with 
two eggs and a little milk into five dump- 
lings, and fry of a fine yellow brown. 
Made with flour instead of bread, but 
half the quantity, they are excellent. 
Serve with sweet sauce. 

1871.— GLOUCESTER PUDDINGS. 

Weigh three eggs in the shell; take 
their weight Jn flour and butter ; take 
twelve bitter almonds and five ounces 
of pounded sugar ; beat all together for 
half an hour, and put the mixture in 
pudding-cups, filling the cups only half 
full. Bake them half an hour. 

1372.— YEAST DUMPLINGS. 

Take some yeast and make a very light 
dough rtio same as for bread, using milk 
ho'^ , ■ er instead of water ; add salt, put 

jy the fire covered in a pan for half an 
hour or more, to rise ; after this is done 
roll up the dough into small balls and 
boil them for ten minutes, then take 
them out and serve directly with wine- 
sauce over them. To know when they 
are done stick a fork into one, and if it 
comes out clean they will do. 

A good method of eating them is by 
dividing them from the top with two 
forks, as they get heavy by their own 
steam, and eat them directly with meat, 
or sugar and butter, or salt. 



ITALIAN PASTES. 

Besides macaroni, there are vermicelli, 
semolina, a smaller sort called macaron- 
cini, and various other pastes of the 
same nature, all made in Italy from the 
same kind of grain ; nothing therefore. 



can be more simply nutritive, nor, when 
well boiled, more easy of digestion. 
There are also two sorts of macaroni — 
the pijye and the tape — the one hollow, 
and the other flat, but both made of the 
same material ; the vermicelli being that 
most generally used in soup : each being 
severally used in various ways, according 
to the following receipts : 

1878.— MACARONI. 

Some cooks are very fond of boiling it 
in milk, and even of laying it in milk for 
an hour or two to swell and become ten- 
der, but boiling water is as good. A 
quarter of a pound will be sufficient for 
half a dozen people, and will not require 
more than twenty to twenty-five minutes 
to become tender, if boi'ed in water, but 
a few minutes longer if boiled in broth. 
Drain it when tender and lay it in a dish. 
Half the quantity of cheese should be finely 
grated and sprinkled over it in layers, vnth 
butter, to mix it thoroughly. It should 
be served quite hot. It is sometimes 
eaten with mustard, and, if to be made 
very savory, beef gravy may be used with 
a truflSe stewed in it. 

Nothing but Parmesan cheese will give 
it the true flavor. 

To hrown Macaroni is the common 
practice of cooks ; though, in fact, the 
browning, while giving a pretty appear- 
ance to the macaroni, not only hardens 
the top of the cheese into a crust, but 
often gives a taste of rancidity. It can 
be done with crumbs of bread, thus : — 

Wash the macaroni, then simmer it in 
a little broth, with a little pounded mace 
and salt. When quite tender, take it out 
of the liquor, lay it in a dish, grate a 
good deal of cheese over, then cover that 
with bread grated fine. Warm some 
butter without oiling, and pour it from a 
boat through a little earthen colander all 
over the crumbs, then put the dish in a 
Dutch oven to brown the bread of a fine 
color. 



ITALIAN PASTES. 



451 



Cold Macaroni, — If already dressed, 
may be warmed in any kind of broth, 
letting it simmer gently upon a slow' fire, 
with the yolks of two eggs to thicken ; 
after which it should be put into the 
oven in a mould covered with crumbs of 
bread ; or, if undressed, it may be made 
by leaving it overnight in broth, and then 
proceeding with it as above. 

1374— TIMBALE DE MACAEONI. 

Soften the macaroni by boiling it fast 
until it will cut easily without breaking, 
but do not let it be too soft ; then cut it 
into pieces half an inch long ; butter a 
mould, stick the macaroni quite close to- 
gether all- over it, so as to look like a 
honeycomb ; then spiead a thin laj-er of 
quenelle farce over the macaroni ; fill up 
the mould with a mince of stewed ox 
palates cut into small pieces, and small 
button mushrooms, either pickled or 
fresh, moistened well with white sauce : 
close the mould, and boil it for three- 
quarters of an hour ; turn it out very 
carefully, and serve it with thick white 
sauce and mushrooms. 

1375.— PlTfi DE MACAEONI. 

Stew some macaroni in butter and 
water, or broth, strain it, cut it into 
pieces, and lay it at the bottom of the 
dish, adding ham balls, made of ham, 
pounded in a mortar, and blended with 
butter ; then have ready any kind of game, 
boned and filleted, cock's-combs or ox- 
palates, pre\nously blanched and stewed, 
sweetbread cut into dice, and mushrooms, 
all stewed in good rich sauce ; place a 
layer upon the macaroni, then another 
laj'er of meat, and, until the pie is filled, 
add to it equal quantities of cream and 
gravy, cover it with a paste, and bake it, 
or omit the paste, and stew it before the 
fire in a Dutch oven. The macaroni 
may be mixed with grated cheese. 



1376.— VERMICELLI 

Is of the same substance as macaroni, 
but made much smaller, and frequently 
put into meat soups as giving them ad- 
ditional richness ; but it is often too spar- 
ingly used. To be well made the soup 
should be thickened with it, and for that 
purpose it is preferable to macaroni. 

Semolina is of the same material, but 
made into small grains, which more easily 
thicken the soup in which it is mixed ; 
it can also be made into an excellent 
pudding with eggs and milk, using it in- 
stead of flour. 

It should be observed, as a general 
rule, that in using any of the Italian 
pastes — unless they should be sweetened 
— Parmesan cheese should always form 
part of the dish, in the proportion of one- 
half the quantity to that of the paste. 

1377.— POLENTA. 

Is, in Italy, made from the flour of In- 
dian corn, but in England generally of 
semolina, thus : — Put a little salt and 
four ounces of semolina into a quart of 
milk when it is beginning to boil, and 
let it continue to simmer for about ten 
minutes, stirring it occasionally to guard 
it from burning. When well thickened 
pour it into a dish to cool, and when 
quite cold it will be very solid : then cut 
it into slices of less than an inch thick, 
upon which put a large grating of good 
Parmesan cheese, for no other kind will 
answer the purpose ; nor should any 
spices be used, except a little mace ; nor 
even that, unless it be made (as sometimes 
done) with veal broth. Clarify a few 
ounces of fresh butter — though in Italy 
oil is always used — put a layer of the 
paste, powdered with the Parme&"an, mix- 
ed with a little of the butter ; bake it for 
half an hour in a moderately heated oven, 
and serve it up quite hot, with a separate 
plate of the grated cheese. 



452 



THE PKACTICAL HOTJSEKEEPEE. 



RICE. 

For savory dishes rice should be stew- 
ed in good gravy, seasoned with mace, 
cayenne, and salt, with the addition of 
fried onions, shalot, garlic, and pot-herbs, 
strained and used at pleasure. 

For sweet dishes.- — Boil it with lemon- 
peel, cinnamon, or bay-leaves, and, when 
done to a proper consistency, add powder- 
ed sugar and cold butter, stirring it all 
the time till melted ; then pour in a little 
cream, and use it either as a covering for 
stewed fruits, or, if made thick enough, 
it may be placed round the sides of a 
dish, leaving the middle hollow for the 
sweets. The same plan may be adopted 
for all sorts of meat, poultry, fish, fruit, 
and sweetmeats. The sugar should not 
be added until the rice is done, as it has 
a tendency to harden the grains. 

Plain rice pudding can be made with 
brown sugar, and milk baked slowly a 
long time ; a richer one by boiling a tea- 
cupful of rice, and when boiled, adding 
milk and fine sugar, with four beaten 
eggs, and baking it. 

13T8.— EICE FRITTERS. 

Pare very thin the rind of a lemon, 
and boil it in milk, with sugar enough to 
sweeten it, and a cup of rice. When the 
rice is quite soft take out the lemon peel, 
beat up the rice with a glass of brandy ; 
shape it into fritters ; brush them with 
yolks of eggs, cover them with bread- 
crumbs, fry them in lard, dust them with 
fine sugar, and glaze with salamander. 

13T9.— TO BOIL RICE. 

Very few persons know how to boil 
rice properly. It is usually so boiled as 
to become a heavy doughy so tenacious 
and solid as to be almost impenetrable 
to the digestive fluids secreted by the 
mouth and the stomach, which are neces- 



sary to dissolve it, and to efiect its diges- 
tion and distribution, as innocent nourish- 
ing food. It should be so cooked that 
the grains shall remain separate and dis- 
tinct, but not hard, and the whole be in 
some degree loose and porous. The 
Southern method is as follows : 

Pick over the rice carefully, rinse it 
well in cold water till it is faithfully 
cleansed ; drain off the water, then put 
it in a pot of boiling water, with a little 
salt. Allow as much as a quart of water 
to a teacup of rice, as it absorbs the 
water very much while boiling. Boil it 
seventeen minutes ; then turn the water 
ofi" very close ; set the pot over a few 
coals, and let it steam fifteen minutes 
with the lid of the pot off. The beauty 
of the rice boiled in this way, is, that 
each kernel stands out by itself, while it 
is quite tender. 




Rice Croquettes. 



1880.- 



■RICE CROQUETTES. 

Take half a pound of boiled rice, mix 
with it two table-spoonfuls of grated 
cheese, and a little nutmeg and mace ; 
then take a little butter, six table-spoon- 
fuls of cold chicken breast, minced, six 
bearded oysters, a little parsley and 
lemon peel, and mixed together with rich 
milk or cream. Roll out a table-spoon 
heaping full of the rice, and put into it 
as much as it will hold of the mixture, 
folding the edges and inclosing it ; brush 
the balls over with yolk of raw egg, roll 
them in cracker crumbs, and fry them 
light brown in boiling lard. Serve them 
hot when drained. 



• 1881.— CASSEROLE DE EIZ AUX (EUFS. 
Clean, wash, and stew the rice ; work 
it well with stock and an egg beaten, as 
the rice should be firm and well blended ; 
then make it into a wall, lining the inside 
of a mould of the requisite height : bake 
the casserole. Take the white portion 
of cold fowl, cold veal, or sweetbreads ; 
mince them finely, add some thick white 
sauce and mushrooms, fill the casserole, 
and cover the top with poached eggs ; 
cover them with glaze, and serve it up 
very hot. 

1382.— EICE, GlTEAU OF. 
Boil a quart of cream, and add to it 
half a pound of powdered sugar, and 
three-quarters of a pound of rice ; when 
the latter is quite soft dissolve in it a 
quarter of a pound of butter, and then 
put in the grated rind of a lemon ; let it 
cool. When quite cold stir in four 
yolks and 'four whole eggs ; more if the 
rice be very thick ; butter a mould 
lightly, put the rice into it, place the 
mould in hot ashes so that it may be 
completely enveloped in and covered 
with them ; in half an hour the gdteau 
will be done enough, then turn it out 
and serve. If you wish you can make a 
souffle by whipping the whites of six 
eggs like other soufii6s ; in this case it 
should be served in a silver dish. In 
putting the preparation into the mould 
be careful not to fill it, as the rice 
would swell and run over. 

1388.— MUSH. 

Stir Indian meal into boiling water, 
adding a little salt and putting in the 
meal by degrees, while stirring with a 
mush stick. Let it boil thick, then sim- 
mer slowly till suflBciently cooked ; three 
or four hours' simmering will not be too 
long. 

1884.— HOMINY. 
Wash the hominy clean, and boil it 
29 



with sufficient water to cover it. It 
should boil from four to five hours over 
a very slow fire. Eat it with butter and 
molasses, or with sugar and milk. It is 
considered extremely wholesome food, 
especially for children and delicate per- 



1885.— CEOQUETTES OP EICE WITH APEI- 
COT MARMALADE. 

Prepare the rice plain for a croquette, 
take the handle of a wooden spoon, make 
a hole in the croquette, which fill with 
marmalade of apricots. Then close it up 
with some of the rice, put crumbs of 
bread as you do in all other croquettes, 
and fry in the same manner. You may 
put in pieces of apple or other fruit. 

1386.-S0UFFL:6 of apples with A EICE 
BOEDER. 

Prepare your rice as for a croquette. 
Keep it of a strong solid substance ; 
dress it up all round a dish, the same 
height as a raised crust, that is to say, 
three inches high. Give a pleasing 
shape to the rice, and let it be levelled 
smooth ; have some marmalade of apple 
ready, made very thick ; mix with it six 
yolks of eggs and a small bit of butter ; 
warm it on the stove : then have eight 
whites of eggs well whipped, as for bis- 
cuits ; mix them lightly with the apples, 
and put the whole into the middle of the 
rice ; put this into the oven, which must 
not be too hot. When the soufile is 
raised sufticiently, send it up, as it would 
soon lower. If you wish to make a 
kind of pap, take a spoonful of flour, a 
pint of milk, a little salt, lemon, and 
sugar ; let the whole boil well and thick, 
then mix it with the apples and the 
yolks of six eggs ; the whites are to be 
well beaten, and poured in afterwards ; 
next bake the souflie in the oven. This 
method is safer than the former, and is 
not deficient in delicacy. 



454 



THK PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



CHEESE. 

Cheese takes an important place at 
the table ; not alone, in its simple i»lace 
at the close of the dinner, but that it 
forms the foundation of many excellent 
dishes. The selection of good cheese re- 
quires both judgment and experience ; a 
delicate palate and a keen sense of smell 
are two essential requisites, while the 
eye is an assistant to point out those de- 
fects independent of taste or smell. A 
prime cheese is readily told by a connois- 
seur by the color and texture, without 
consulting either nose or palate. 

18S7.— TO MAKE CHEESE. 

Put rennet into warm fresh milk, 
soaked in a little warm water, and add 
salt. Half a pint of rennet water will 
turn three pails of milk. Cut the curd 
into squares ; afterwards break it up 
and let it stand a few minutes ; pour off 
the whey, tie up the curd, and hang it 
up to drain dry. Then chop it up in a 
cheese tray, put it in a cloth in the cheese 
mould, and press it in the screw press 
half an hour. Then cut it up fine, salt 
it, and press again for twenty-four hours, 
wetting the cloth previously. Take it 
out and turn, and put it in again in a 
clean wet cloth, and renew this process 
for three or four days. Then rub the 
cheese with butler or lard, and set it 
away in a dry place or in a wire safe. 
Wipe and grease it till the rind is firm, 
and turn it every day for several weeks. 

138S.— SMEARCASE OR COTTAGE CHEESE. 

Set by the fire some milk beginning to 
sour, till a curd is formed : then pour off 
the whey, tie the curd in a cloth, and 
hang it up to drain, not squeezing it. 
Drain it twelve hours. Then work it in 
a bowl with cream, salting to taste, and 
add a little fresh butter, till it is soft and 
smooth. 



1889.— SAGE CHEESE. 

Pound fresh sage leaves in a mortal 
to obtain the juice, and mix it with the 
milk while warm, after the rennet is put 
in. Spinach juice is an impiovement. 

1390.— CREAM CHEESE. 

Take a small pan of fresh morning's 
milk, warm from the cow is best, and 
mix with the cream skimmed from an 
equal quantity of the last night's milk. 
Warm it to blood heat, pour into it a 
cup of water, in which a piece of rennet 
the size of two fingers has soaked all 
night, and put it in a warm place till the 
curd is formed. Cut the curd into 
squares, lay over it a thin straining cloth 
press it down, and dip out all the whey 
that rises through it. Then put the curd 
in the cloth, squeeze it dry, then crumble 
and salt it to taste. Wash the straining 
cloth, lay it in the cheese hoop (a bot- 
tomless vessel the size of a dinner plate, 
perforated with small holes,) put the 
crumbled curd into the cloth, and fold 
the rest of the cloth over it. Put on the 
cover, and set a weight on it. In six 
hours turn the cheese, and let stand six 
hours longer. Then take it out, rub it 
with fresh butter, and set it in a dark, 
dry place. Turn it every day for four or 
five days, when it is fit for use ; and it 
must be eaten immediately when cut. It 
will keep but a few days, even in cold 
weather. 



-CHEESE PUFFS. 

pint of cheese 



1891.- 

Take half a pint of cheese curd 
strained from the whey, with a spoonful 
and a half of flour, three eggs, leave out 
the whites of two, a spoonful of orange 
flower water, a quarter of a nutmeg, and 
sugar to make it sweet ; beat it in a mor^ 
tar; lay a little of this paste in very 
small round cakes on a tin plate ; if the 
oven is hot, they will take a quarter of 
an hour to bake them ; serve them with 
pudding sauce. 



CHEESE. 



451 



1892— EGGS AND CHEESE 

Are mixed together in various ways 
by French cooks, under the names of 
fondus ov fondeaiix., ramequins, and other 
titles, for the purpose of preparing e7i- 
tremets, or side-dishes, for elegant tables. 

Gruyere and Parmesan are the most 
proper sorts to be thus used, but any 
dry cheese, of good flavor, may be em- 
ployed. 

For Fondeati. — Slice a stale penny 
roll ; pour over it three gills of boiling 
milk ; when soaked, beat it well, and mix 
with it half a pound of cheese, finely 
grated, with the yolks of four eggs well 
whisked. All this may be prepared 
when most convenient ; immediately be- 
fore it is wanted beat the whites of the 
four eggs into a solid froth, and add 
them ; pour the whole into the paper 
forms, and bake them to j^our taste. 

A V Italienne. — Mix half a pint of 
cream with a httle flour and a little salt ; 
keep stirring it over the fire until it is as 
thick as melted butter ; then add about 
half a pound of Parmesan cheese finely 
grated. Mix it all well together until it 
is half cold ; then take four eggs, sepa- 
rate the yolks from the whites, put the 
former to the cheese, and beat it well to- 
gether. Then beat the whites to a solid 
froth, and add them to the rest ; pour 
the mixture into an ornamented mould 
or a deep dish lined with paper, cut in a 
fringe at the top, and only half filled, as 
it will rise very high. The oven must 
be very hot, in order to cause the rising, 
and the dish must be served immediately, 
or it will fall ; to prevent which, let the 
cover be of metal, strongly heated : 
twenty minutes ought to bake it. 

Fondeaux of a small size may be made 
in either of the above modes, and put 
into little paper moulds of any fancied 
form, but only half filled. 



1393.— EAMfiQinNS. 

Take two eggs, two spoonfuls of flour, 
two ounces of melted butter, and two of 
grated cheese ; mix all well together, and 
bake it in moulds or tart-pans for a 
quarter of an hour. 

A la Parisienne. — Boil half a pint of 
milk, and half the quantity of cream ; 
melt one ounce of butter and a little salt ; 
mix in a spoonful of flour, and stir it 
over the fire for five minutes ; pour in 
the milk and cream, by degrees, and work 
it smooth, takingcare that it is thorough- 
ly cooked. Then take it off", and add 
half a pound of grated cheese, some 
coarse ground pepper, and an atom of 
nutmeg, with a very little powdered 
sugar, the yolks of eight eggs, and the 
whites of two, well beaten ; when per- 
fectly mixed, add the whites of six eggs 
beaten to a froth. The batter should be 
as thick as cream. Make little paper 
trays, fill them three parts full, and bake 
them in a very slow oven eighteen min- 
utes. 

Fried Eameqiiins. — Grate half a pound 
of cheese, and melt two ounces of but- 
ter ; when the latter is getting cool, mix 
it with the cheese and the whites of 
three eggs well beaten. Lay buttered 
papers on a frying-pan, put slices of 
bread upon it, and lay the cheese on the 
top ; set it on the fire for about five 
minutes, then take it oft, and brown it 
with a salamander. 

1394— CHEESE SOUFFLlfe, OR DIABLOTINS. 

Put a gill of milk in a stewpan, with 
two ounces of butter ; when boiling, stir 
in two spoonfuls of flour, keep stirring 
over the fire until the bottom of the 
stewpan is dry, then add four eggs by 
degrees, and a pound of grated cheese ; 
mix well in, season with pepper, salt, 
and cayenne, rather highly, mould the 
paste into little balls with the forefinger 



456 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



against the side of the stewpan contain- 
ing it, drop them into hot lard ; fry of a 
nice hght brown, dress in pyramid upon 
a napkin, and serve very hot ; a quarter 
of that quantity may of course be made. 
This is an excellent dish. 

1S95.— STEWED CHEESE. 

Grate two ounces of cheese ; put it 
into a basin ; mix with it a small teacup- 
ful of cream and an egg beaten and 
strained. Put into a small saucepan one 
ounce or half an ounce of butter, accord- 
ing to the richness of the cheese ; let it 
melt, then stir in the other ingredients, 
and let it boil until well mixed. Serve it 
hot either browned or plain. 

With Ale. — Cut the cheese into slices, 
pare off the rind, and put it into a dish 
over a lamp ; then pour on as much ale 
as will cover it, and let it stew until the 
cheese is dissolved. This is a Welsh 
method, and a very good one. The 
cheese may be spread with mustard. 

A very delicious sort of paste may 
also be made of any of the rich cheeses, 
stewed with cream and yolk of egg, 
either seasoned savorily or sweetened ; 
and eaten hot or cold, 

139G.— WELSH RABBIT. 

Put mellow cheese into a saucepan 
with about one ounce of butter and a 
very little ale ; stir it over the fire until 
the cheese is quite dissolved ; then take 
it off, add an egg well beaten, dish it, and 
brown it before the fire. 




Cheese-Toaater. 



Or, Rasp some toasting cheese with a 
bit of butter, into a cheese-toaster, and, 



when the cheese dissolves before the fire, 
put it upon thin slices of buttered toast, 
of which the crust has been cut off. 
Serve it very hot, or the cheese will be- 
come tough ; and eat it with pepper, salt, 
and mustard. 

1897. -A CHEESE PUDDING. 

Grate three ounces of cheese and five 
of bread ; and having warmed one ounce 
of butter in a quarter of a pint of new 
milk, mix it with the above ; add two 
well-beaten eggs and a little salt. Bake 
it half an hour. 

This is a nice way of finishing up a 
cheese when little but the rind is left. 

When mites have taken possession of 
a cheese, and this is considered objec- 
tionable, the following receipt will have 
the effect of destroying them without 
injury to the cheese. Wipe the cheese, 
put it into a pot in which mutton nas 
been cooked Avhilst the water is yet hot, 
make the water boil a few seconds, take 
out the cheese, wipe it immediately, dry 
it, and then put it away in a dry place 
until required for use. 

1898.— POTTED CHEESE. 

Scrape and pound cheese, with a piece 
of butter, cayenne pepper, a few grains 
of pounded mace, a teaspoonful of sifted 
sugar, a glass of white wine, and a liftle 
salt ; press it into your potting-jar for 
shape. It may be potted with brandy. 

1899.— CHEESE CREAM, A PLAIN FAMILY 
WAT. 

Put three half pints of milk to one- 
half pint of cream, warm, or according to 
the same proportions, and put in a little 
rennet ; keep it covered in a warm place 
till it is curdled ; have a mould with 
holes, either of china or any other, put 
the curds into it to drain about an hour, 
serve with good plain cream and pound- 
ed sugar over it. 



PANCAKES. 



457 



1400.-PANCAKES. 

The common sort are composed of a 
light batter, made of eggsj flour, and 
milk, fried in hot dripping or lard, only- 
half of the whites of the eggs being 
generally used ; but salt, or nutmeg, and 
ginger, may be added, and sugar and 
lemon should be served to eat with them. 
Or, when eggs are scarce, make the bat- 
ter with flour and small beer, ginger, &c. ; 
or clean snow, with flour, and a very- 
little milk, will serve as well as eggs. If 
the family be large, beat eight yolks and 
four whites of eggs, strain them into a 
pint of milk, put a grated nutmeg, and 
sugar to your taste : set three ounces of 
fresh butter on the fire, stir it, and as it 
warms pour it to the milk, which should 
be warm when the eggs are put to it ; 
then mix smooth almost a half a pound 
of flour. Fry the pancakes very thin ; 
the first with a bit of butter, but not the 
others. Serve several on one another, 
but at two or three difierent times, " hot 
and hot." 

A finer kind are fried without but- 
ter or lard, as thus : — Beat six fresh 
eggs extremely well ; mix, when strained, 
with a pint of cream, four ounces of 
sugar, a glass of good French brandy, a 
half a nutmeg grated, the grated rind of 
a whole lemon, and as much flour as will 
make it almost as thick as ordinary pan- 
cake-batter, but not quite. Heat the 
frying-pan tolerably hot, wipe it with a 
clean cloth ; then pour in the batter to 
make thin pancakes. 

1401.— APPLE PANCAKES. 

Mix two large spoonfuls of flour in a 
cup of milk or wine ; when smooth add 
eight eggs, some pounded cinnamon, 
grated lemon-peel, a handful of currants, 
and six or eight apples peeled and chop- 
ped : mix it all well together ; melt some 
butter in a frying-pan ; when hot pour 
the whole mass in, and fry it on both 



sides : serve it stewed with pounded cin- 
namon and sugar very hot. 

1402.— NEW ENGLAND PANCAKES. 

Mix a pint of cream, five spoonfuls of 
fine flour, seven yolks and four whites 
of eggs, and a very little salt ; fry them 
very thin in fresh butter, and between 
each strew sugar and cinnamon. Send up 
six or eight at once. 




Woffle Furnace. 

1403.— DUTCH PANCAKES. 

Mix one pound of flour with a half a 
pound of sugar and a table-spoonful of 
cinnamon in powder ; make it into a paste 
with ten eggs and two glasses of white 
wine, or one each of wine and brandy ; 
when well mixed, roll it out and fry like 
other pancakes. 

1404.— CEfiPES. 

Make a batter with flour, milk and 
eggs, adding brandy and orange-flower 
water. In two or three hours after- 
wards, melt a piece of butter or lard, the 
size of a walnut, in a frying-pan, pour in 
some batter, and shake it over the pan. 
When done on one side, turn it over; 
when the other side is done, dish it and 
keep hot till the others are done, sifting 
sugar over each. 

1405.— EICE PANCAKES. 
To half a pound of rice put two-thirds 
of a pint of water, boil it to a jelly ; 
when cold; add to it eight eggs, a pint of 
cream, a little salt and nutmeg, and half 
a pound of butter melted ; mix well, 
adding the butter last, and working it 



458 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK, 



only so much as will make the batter 
sulKciently thick. Fry them in lard, 
but employ as little as it is possible to 
Try them with. 

U06.-FPJTTERS, 

Although a species of pancakes, aie 
jet not so wholly composed of eggs, and 
may be made of almost any substance 
fried in butter. Make them of any 
of the batters directed for pancakes, 
dropping a small quantity into the pan, 
or beat six eggs very lightly and quickly 
in a quart of milk, adding gradually three 
quarters of a pound of potato-flour. 
Have ready a large quantit}" of lard, and 
when boiling hot put in the batter, allow- 
ing for each fritter half a teacupful. They 
do not require turning, and will be done 
in a few minutes, but must be sent to 
table immediately, or they will become 
heavy ; one pound and a half of lard will 
be required for the above quantity of 
fritters ; they may be eaten plainly pow- 
dered with loaf sugar or sugar and cinna- 
mon, and should be served on a folded 
napkin in the dish. Any sort of sweet- 
meat or ripe fruit may be made into 
fritters. 

For 2)lain Fritters. — Grate the crumb 
of a penny loaf, put it into a pint of milk 
over the fire, and beat it very smooth ; 
when cold, add the yolks of five eggs 
three ounces of sifted sugar, and half 
a nutmeg. Fry them in hog's lard, and 
serve 2)udding-sauce in a boat. 

A2)ple-Fritters. — Take the yolks of six 
eggs, and the whites of three; beat them 
well, and strain them ; then add a pint 
of milk, a little salt, half a nutmeg grat- 
ed, and a glass of brandy. INlake it into 
thick batter with fine flour; slice the 
apples in rounds, cut out the core, dust 
them with fine sugar, and let them so re- 
main for two hours ; then dip each slice 
in batter, and fry them in plenty of boil- 
ing lard over a quick fire. They requn-e 



lard sufficient to swim in. Glaze with 
sugar. 

Oreme Frite <iux Amandes. — Boil one 
pint of milk with two bay-leaves, a little 
lemon-peel, and a small piece of cinnamon. 
When the flavor is extracted, strain it ; 
add two table-spoonfuls of arrowroot, 
and sugar to palate ; stir it well over the 
fire, and add the yolks of four eggs, two 
ounces of chopped almonds, and a wine- 
glass of cream. Cook the whole over the 
fire for about four minutes, stirring it all 
the time ; then pour it on a tin which has 
been well buttered, sprc;ad it about half 
an inch thick, put it into the oven for ten 
minutes, let it get thoroughly cool, cut 
out with a round cutter, dip into fine 
bread-crumbs, then into egg beat up very 
thin, and again into crumbs ; fry in hot 
lard : dust over with sugar, and send to 
table. 

French Fritters. — Mix two eggs, well 
beaten and strained, with as much new 
milk and flour as shall make one thick 
pancake, which fry as pale as you can. 
Pound it in a mortar quite smooth, and 
add the yolks of four and whites of two 
eggs, one large spoonful of orange-flower 
water or cinnamon-water, one ounce of 
blanched almonds beaten to a paste, two 
ounces of white sugar, and one-quarter 
of a small nutmeg. Pound it all till it 
becomes smooth batter. Have ready a 
large stewjian half full of fine lard quite 
hot, and drop the batter into it, the size 
of large nuts, until the surface be filled : 
as they brown, turn them : they will be 
very large : when done, remove them on 
clean paper, in a dish before the fire, and 
do the remaiuder. Serve as quickly as 
possible. They are excellent. 

Potato Fritters. — Boil two large po- 
tatoes, scrape them fine, beat four j^olks 
and three whites of eggs, and add one 
large spoonful of cream, another of sweet 
wine, a squeeze of lemon, and a little nut- 
mes;. Beat this batter half an hour at 



BEIGNETS. EGG S. 



459 



least. It will be extremely light. Put 
a good quantity of fine lard in a stewpan, 
and drop a spoonful of the batter at a 
time into it. Fry them, and serve in a 
sauce boat, a glass of white wine, the 
juice of a lemon, one dessert-spoonful of 
peach leaf or almond water, and some 
white sugar, warmed together. 

Curd Fritters. — Rub down in a mor- 
tar a quart of dried curd, with the yolks 
of eight and whites of four well beaten 
eggs, two ounces of sifted sugar, half a 
nutmeg, and half a spoonful of flour. Drop 
the batter into a frying pan, with a little 
butter or fine lard. 

Orange and Sweetmeat Fritters. — Peel 
two oranges, then cut them in slices 
across, and take out all the seeds, dip the 
slices of orange in batter, as for apple- 
fritters, and fry them. Serve with pow- 
dered sugar upon each fritter. 

140T.— BEIGNETS. 

Mix and work well together half a 
pound of flour, and two ounces of butter, 
or three table-spoonfuls of sweet oil, and 
make it into a batter with some warm 
water ; then mis into the batter a couple 
of raw eggs, keeping the yolk of one for 
browning. The materials may thus be 
made of any degree of consistence, so as 
to act as thick batter, or as thin paste by 
the addition of a little flour ; and being 
made into small balls, are spread with the 
remaining yolk of egg, powdered usually 
with sugar, and fried in hot lard ; and, 
when ready to be served, put them for a 
moment on a hair sieve to drain off the 
fat. 

If made solely with paste, without 
mince of any kind, they should have an- 
other egg, and the batter be more con- 
tinually beaten, so as to render the 
beignets light ; then, when prepared for 
dressing, take a spoonful of the batter 
formed into a ball, and drop it into the 



boiling lard. A large dishful will be fried 
in six or seven mmutes. 

VARIOUS MODES OF COOKING 

EQGS. 

Unless an egg is perfectly fresh it is 
unfit for any purpose. You may try the 
freshness of eggs by putting them in a 
pan of cold water. Those that sink the 
soonest are the freshest. Eggs? may be 
preserved a short time by putting them 
in a jar of salt or lime-water with the 
small ends downwards. The salt should 
not afterwards be used. They may be 
preserved several months by greasing 
them all over with melted mutton suet, 
and wedging them close together in a 
box of bran. The small ends always 
downwards. 

There are, of course, several sorts of 
eggs, according to the species of poultry 
which produce them. The turkey egg is 
the largest and the most delicate, after 
which, in point of flavor, is the guinea- 
hen's, and, in that of size, those of the 
goose and duck. Although all these are 
employed in cookery, yet the eggs of the 
" common barn-door fowl" are those most 
generally used when served up separate- 
ly and boiled in the shell, in which case 
the main point is their entire freshness.' 
This can partly be judged of by putting 
them between you and the light, and 
seeing that the white is clear and the 
yolk unclouded; for although nothing 
can be more delicately nutritive" when 
newly laid, few things are more nause- 
ous when they are stale. 

1408.— TO KEEP EGGS FOR WINTER USE. 

Pour a fiill gallon of boiling water on 
two quarts of quicklime and half a 
pound of salt ; when cold, mix into it an 
ounce of cream of tartar. The day fol- 
lowing put in the eggs. After the lime 
has been stirred well into the boiling 
water, a large part of it will settle at the 



460 



THE PRACTICAL H0U8EKEEPEK. 



bottom of the vessel, on which the eggs 
will remain. Keep them covered with 
the liquor, and they will keep for two 
years. 

1409 —TO BOIL EGGS. 

To effect the simple process of boiling 
demands constant attention, as half a 
minute more or less maj' spoil the egg 
for a fastidious palate. Some put them 
into cold water, and, when it boils, allow 
the eggs to remain in it for a minute 
longer ; while others prefer putting them 
into boiling water, and there leaving 
them until done. That time is most 
commonly three minutes, and seldom 
less ; but many persons object to their 
being left so soft, and four or five min- 
utes are not unusual if the eggs are not 
"new-laid." Ten minutes are required 
for making the yolks hard enough for 
salad, after which the eggs should be put 
for some time into cold water to harden, 
or the yolks will not readily incorporate 
with the condiments. 

It should, however, be understood that, 
in whatever \va,y the egg is to be boiled, 
it should be completely covered with 
water ; that if put into the water while 
boiling, the shell is subject to being 
cracked ; and if boiled too suddenlj', the 
white becomes hard, while the yolk re- 
mains comparatively soft. The cook 
should therefore be provided with min- 
ute glasses of various sizes — from one 
minute to five — to ipark the time ; for 
they are more accurate than the hand 
of a kitchen clock, and do not require so 
much watching. 

1410.— TO POACH EGGS 

Is to boil them without Iheir shells^ 
and requires still greater care. The 
water must be perfectly pure, and the 
yolk must be only just so much done as 
to fix itself firmly in the centre of the 
white. 




S P'lacher. 



Put a moderate quantity of water in- 
to a broad flat stewpan. French cooks 
add to it, when boiling, a spoonful of 
vinegar and a little salt. Take the pan 
off the fire whilst putting in the eggs ; 
break the egg into a teacup or small la- 
dle, and turn it gently into the water, so 
as to prevent the yolk from being mixed 
with the white ; let them stand till be- 
ginning to set; then let the eggs boil 
gently until you perceive that they are 
done, by the white being set, and tlie 
yolk appearing through it in a compara- 
tively soft state ; then take each from 
the water with an egg-slice, and pare off 
any ragged edges, which may appear 
around it, before sending to table. This 
latter operation, however, if not quickly 
done, cools the egg, which ought to be 
served quite hot, to avoid which incon- 
venience, a little machine for poaching 
has been invented. 

Poached eggs are commonly placed 
upon buttered toast, broiled ham, or boil- 
ed spinach. 

1411.— OMELETTE. 

This is the most usual mode of dressing 
eggs, after that of boiling them in the 
shell. 

Four eggs will make a very pretty siz- 
ed omelet, but the number must of course 
depend on the size required. If sweet 
herbs be put in, a good deal of parsley 
should form part ; tarragon gives a high 
flavor, and chives or shalots are not un- 



OMELETTES. 



461 



frequently used, but care should be taken 
that the flavor should not overpower that 
of the other ingredients. 

Omelets are judiciously varied by 
mixing grated ham or tongue vpith minc- 
ed anchovies, when served at supper or 
as a side-dish at dinner; but when in 
tended for the breakfast-table, it is more 
delicate to make them of eggs alone. 

Although a coxmon frying-pan may 
be used, yet one made on purpose, not 
larger than the size of a dessert-plate, 
should be employed, so as not to allow 
the omelet too much spreading, for it 
should always be kept of a certain degree 
of thickness to secure the softness of the 
inside. It is therefore only to be fried 
on one side, and when the under is 
browned and the upper brought to a 
moderate state of consistence, the fried 
side is to be folded over the other in 
three. 

Butter is better than either lard or 
dripping for the frying of an omelet. Any 
sort of pot-herbs is admissible ; and many 
sorts of minced fowl and fish are pre- 
pared in that manner. There are hun- 
dreds of receipts for omelets, but the 
principle is the same in all, the difference 
being only in the flavoring. 

1412.— OMELETTE AU NATUREL. 

Take four eggs, beat the yolks and 
whites together with a table-spoonful of 
milk, a little salt and pepper ; put two 
ounces of butter into a frying-pan to 
boil, and let it remain until it begins to 
brown ; pour the batter into it, and let 
it remain quiet for a minute ; turn up 
the edges of the omelet gently from the 
bottom of the pan with a fork ; shake it, 
to keep it from burning at the bottom, 
and fry it till of a bright brown. It 
will not take more than five minutes 
S-ying. 

Aux fines Herbes. — Beat up four eggs 
with a little cream, salt, pepper, chives, 



and parsley, minced very small. Put a 
piece of butter half the size of an egg 
into the frying-pan ; let it begin to 
brown ; pour in the omelet and allow it 
to set a little ; then raise it round the 
edge, to allow more of the mixture to 
become brown. When that is done, 
turn it over to double it ; but as in 
browning the loicer side the wpper will 
sometimes appear too soft ; in that case 
make a slight use of the salamander, to 
give it firmness ; put the dish on the fry- 
ing-pan, and turn it over. Let the fir« 
be clear, but not too hot. 

Aux Confitures. — Beat up eight eggs 
with a table-spoonful of powdered sugar, 
a little nutmeg, a pinch of salt, some 
finely-chopped lemon-peel, and a wine- 
glass of cream, or about a quarter of an 
ounce of butter. Make an omelet pan 
hot, put in a small piece of butter, and, 
when the eggs are thorouglily mixed, 
pour them into the pan ; stir it about, 
and, when set, arrange the omelet neatly 
in the pan ; lay on two spoonfuls of jam, 
roll it up, and glaze it with sugar and 
the salamander. Any of the preserved 
fruits, when prepared as jam, will answer 
the purpose. 

Une Omelette aux Amandes is also 
looked upon as a delicacy, and made by 
substituting almond-flour, or pounded 
sweet almonds, for jam. 

Une Omelette d^Huitves may be made 
with four raw eggs, a little cream, beaten 
up either with or without sweet herbs 
and grated ham, but seasoned with a 
little salt, pepper, and nutmeg, together 
with a dozen oj'^sters bearded, dried, 
minced very small, and fried in butter. 

1413.— OMELETTE SOUEFL^E. 

Take six eggs, separate the whites from 
the yolks, add to the yolks a table-spoon- 
ful of arrowroot or potato-flour, six 
ounces of pounded loaf-sugar, some 
grated lemon-peel, and a small quantity 



462 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



of lemon-zest, or chopped peel, or orange- 
flower water. Beat the whole together 
for several minutes, until they are made 
into a batter, and then whip the whites 
until they become a froth ; stir in lightly 
the batter. Have ready an omelet-pan 
of the proper size heated upon the stove ; 
put into it a quarter of a pound of butter, 
and when it begins to boil put the whole 
into the pan, and stir it with a spoon 
carefully until it becomes partially firm. 
That done, turn it out upon a small cir- 
cular dish, of silver or metal, as the ome- 
let ought to acquire the form of a dome, 
and the dish be placed in a very mode- 
rately heated oven for at least ten min- 
tues or a quarter of an hour, according 
to the care and nicety with which it has 
been made; after which it will have 
risen into a puff of considerable height, 
similar to the fashionable supper dish, 
'■ trifle." It should then be sprinkled 
with a little powdered sugar, the sala- 
mander held over it, and be served im- 
mediately. 

An Omelette Soufiie should not be 
cooked till the moment it is wanted. Its 
whole delicacy, indeed, depends upon its 
being quickly baked, being very light, 
and, as Dr. Kitchiner observes, its mak- 
ing but one movement — viz. : from the 
fire to the throat of the guest. The great 
art is to make it light, foamy, and, as it 
were, etiervescent. 

1414— CELTS FKITS, OR FRIED EGGS. 

Break some fresh eggs into a dish, 
without damaging the yolks, and powder 
over them a little pepper and salt. Then 
fry some butter ; a quarter of a pound 
will do for a dozen eggs. When the 
butter is completely fried, pour it over 
the eggs, and then put them into the fry- 
ing-pan, which keep at a little distance 
from the fire, for fear the eggs should 
stick. When they are done at the bot- 
tom, use the salamander for the top, till 



they turn white. Then dish without 
breaking them, and pour over them a 
little vinegar. 

1415.— PLAIN BAKED EGGS. 

Butter with one ounce a plated or com- 
mon tart-dish, that will bear the heat of 
the oven ; break carefully six eggs in it, 
season with one pinch of pepper, half a 
spoonful of salt, the juice of half a 
lemon, and add half an ounce of butter 
in small pieces over ; put in a slack oven 
until set, and serve. 

1416.— RAND ALLED EGGS. 

Twelve eggs boiled hard and halved ; 
cut a piece from the ends of half of them 
to allow them to stand, take out the 
yolks, chop them, and mix chopped boil- 
ed ham or tongue, season with nutmeg 
and mace, moisten with butter, and put 
it in the space within the egg. Put the 
halves together, and stand the joined 
eggs on end in the dish. 

1417.— (EUFS FARCIS. 

Boil six eggs hard, remove the shells, 
but leave the eggs whole ; cover them 
with a rich forcemeat made with scraped 
ham, pounded anchovy, pounded veal, and 
bacon fat, well pounded together and 
highly seasoned ; brush them with the 
3'olk of egg, and dredge them with bread- 
crumbs or vermicelli ; fry them a pale 
gold color, or put them for a quarter of 
an hour in an oven, and serve them up 
with gravy in the dish. 

(Euf» sur le plat is a German mode of 
frying an egg by means of a small cheese 
plate, which, being thoroughly warmed, 
is greased in the indented part with a 
bit of butter or a very little sweet-oil, 
and into this part the egg is broken frojpi 
the shell, thus retaining the e.xact rotun- 
dity of the plate, which is then placed 
upon the gridiron over a good tire. It 



EGGS. 



463 



may be slightly browned, if thought fit, 
with a salamander, but does not need it ; 
and though quite as delicate, yet renders 
the egg rather more savory than by 
poaching. 

1418.— EGGS AND VEGETABLES. 

Eggs and Spinach. — Poach half a 
dozen eggs, trim them nicely, and serve 
them upon stewed spinach. 

Eggs and Onions., or a lu Tripe. — Skin 
six or eight onions, mince them, put some 
butter into a stewpan and melt it, add 
about two' spoonfuls of flour, mix both 
well together, then add the onions, and 
wet them with milk, cream or water ; let 
them stew, taking care that the onions 
and butter do not become brown ; .season 
with a little salt and white pepper ; cut 
some hard eggs into slices, and when the 
sauce is ready put them in ; make the 
whole very hot, and serve it up. 

1419— (EUFS BEOUILLfiS. 

Break four or six eggs ; beat them and 
put them into a saucepan with a piece of 
butter, a little salt, and a spoonful of 
sauce or gravy, which makes the eggs 
softer ; stir them over the fire until suf- 
ficiently thick ; serve on a plate garnished 
with toasted bread. To eggs dressed 
this way, truffles, ham, mushrooms, &c.. 
minced, may be added. The difference 
between this and an omelet is, that an 
omelet is compact and turns out smooth, 
whereas cunfs brouilles are less done, and 
are therefore broken. 

In Ireland, where it is in general use, 
it is usually served upon hot buttered 
toast, and is there called "■buttered eggs.'^ 
It is also very common in France, where 
it is usually served for breakfast. 

A very pretty dish of eggs is made thus: 
— Break some eggs into a small tart- 
dish, without injuring the yolks, or lay- 
ing one over the other. Drop on them 
some warm better, and lightly strew 



crumbs of bread. Put it in the oven 
until the whites be set, and serve with a 
wreath of parsley round the e'ge. 

1420.— EGGS WITH BURNT BUTTER. 
Put into a frying pan two ounces of 
butter, which melt ; as soon as it is on 
the point of browning, put in the eggs, 
which have been previously broken in a 
basin, and seasoned with pepper and salt ; 
when well set, serve, with a teaspoonful 
of vinegar over the eggs. 

1421.— SNOW EGGS. 

Take half a pint of milk and a little 
sugar, and flavor it with orange-flower 
water, or any other essence, and put it 
in a stewpan on the fire, having previous- 
ly beaten up the whites of six eggs to a 
stifi" froth ; if very hot weather, you must 
place the basin they are in on ice, or in 
cold water ; whilst beating add some 
powdered sugar lightly ; when the milk 
is boiling, take the white up with a table- 
spoon, and drop it, one table-spoonful at 
a time, into the stewpan to poach, keep- 
ing the shape of an egg, which turn over 
when set ; when done, remove with a 
colander on to a sieve, and dress them 
in a crown on the dish you intend to 
serve them on ; when all done, beat up 
the yolks of four of the eggs in a stew- 
pan, with a little sugar, and a few drops 
of orange-flower water, pour part of the 
boiling milk out of the stewpan into it, 
sufiicient to make a good stiff" custard, 
put it on the fire until rather thick, and 
pour over the white, and serve either hot 
or cold : the last is preferable. 

1422.— EGGS IN CASES. 
Cut up a sheet of paper into pieces of 
three inches square, turn up half an inch 
all round so as to form a kind of square 
case ; there will then remain but two 
inches square in the inside. Take a 
small piece of butter, a pinch of fine 
bread crumbs, a little fine chopped pars- 
ley, spring onions, salt, and pepper, and 



464 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



mix them together, put a little into each 
case, then break one egg into each, put 
them on a gridiron over a slow fire, and 
do them gently, or place them in a dish 
in an oven ; when well set, serve. Small 
round paper cases may be procured very 
cheap. 

1423.— GARNITURE FOR OMELETTES. 

Asparagus, Peas, and Green Pens. — 
Put in a stewpan three spoonfuls of plain 
boiled asparagus, that has previously 
been cut up, add to it half an ounce of 
butter, a little ^alt, pepper, and sugar, 
warm it on the fire, moving it continually, 
when warm, put it with a spoon in the 
centre of the omelette, turn over, and 
serve ; the same with peas ; rather thin 
melted butter or white sauce may be 
served round it. 

Oysters. — Open and blanch delicately 
twelve middle-sized oysters, and put 
them in a stewpan with their own gravy, 
after having bearded them, add a table- 
spoonful of milk or cream, and give it a 
boil, then add half an ounce of butter, in 
which you have mixed a saltspoonful of 
flour, stir it in without breaking the 
oysters, put over the centre of your 
omelette, and proceed as before. 

Lobster. — Cut half or a small one in 
thin slices, put four table-spoonfuls of 
melted butter in a stewpan, a few drops 
of essence of anchovies, and a little 
cayenne; put in your lobster, warm it 
well, and put it in the middle of the 
omelette, as above. 

Mushroom. — Wash about ten small 
fresh mushrooms, cut in slices,^put in a 
stewpan, with half an ounce of butter, a 
little salt, pepper, and the juice of a 
quarter of a lemon, simmer for a few 
minutes ou the fire till tender ; if too 
liquid, add a little flour, place in centre 
of omelette, and proceed as above. 

Bacon. — Cut two ounces of good lean 
bacon in small dice, put in a pan to fiy 



with a pat of butter for one minute, then 
mix with the eggs prepared as for ome- 
lette of herbs, omitting the salt, and cook 
the same way. This omelette is in great 
repute in France, especially among the 
epicures of the Barrieres, outside of 
Paris. It prepares the palate to nceive 
with pleasure the cheap and acid wines 
sold there, which must have been in- 
vented by Bacchus when in a sour 
humor. 



TO MAKE BKE4D. 

1424. 

For a good baking, take two and a half 
pecks of wheat flour ; put it into a knead- 
ing trough or earthen pan well glazed ; 
make a hole in the centre of the flour 
and pour in a pint or more of good brew- 
er's yeast, or still more of home-made,well 
mixed with a pint of milk-warm water. 
Stir in, with a spoon, flour enough to 
make a batter; sprinkle this with dry 
flour, and cover it entirely. Cover the 
whole lightly with a cloth, and set it by 
the fire. This is setting the sponge. 
When the batter has swelled and risen 
so as to form cracks in the flour covering 
it, scatter through it two table-spoonfuls 
of flne salt, and mix the flour with soft 
warm water, added by degrees. Work 
and mould the dough thoroughly, knead- 
ing it till smooth and light, and till not 
a particle will stick to the hands. Then 
sprinkle a mass of dough with flour, 
cover it with a warm cloth, and let it 
stand near the fire for an hour, or less in 
warm weather. It has now risen to its 
height. Divide it into seven loaves ; 
mould and form them lightly on the 
paste-board, put them on floured tin or 
earthen plates, and place them in the 
oven. 

With good, dry, hard wood, the oven 
will be heated in an hour. When the 
coals are spread over the bottom, the 
oven will be clear of smoke. Clean and 



BREAD. 



465 



sweep it, and throw in a little flour to 
see if it is too hot ; if it burns black at 
once, let the oven cool a little. When 
the loaves are in, close the oven and 
keep it tight. The loaves should be 
done in from an hour to an hour and a 
half. 

When the loaves are baked, take them 
from the oven, and put them on a clean 
shelf, in a cool pantry, with a light cloth 
over them. If the crust is scorched, or 
the bread too much baked, wrap the 
loaves in a clean coarse towel, slightly 
damped. 

1425.— BROWN, OR DYSPEPSIA BREAD. 

Take six quarts of wheat meal, rather 
coarsely ground, one teacup of good 
yeast, and half a teacup of molasses, mix 
these with a pint of milk-warm water 
and a teaspoonful of saleratus. Make 
a hole in the meal and stir this mix- 
ture in the middle till it is like bat- 
ter. Then proceed as with fine flour 
bread. Make the dough, when sufficient- 
\y light, into four loaves, which will 
weigh two pounds per loaf when baked. 
It requires a hotter oven than fine flour 
bread, and must bake about an hour and 
a half 

1426.— RYE AND INDIAN BREAD. 

There are many different proportions 
in the mixing of this bread. Some put 
one-third Indian with two of rye ; others 
like one-third rye and two of Indian ; 
others prefer it half and half. 

If you use the largest proportion of 
rye meal, make your dough stiff" so that 
it will mould into loaves ; when it is 
two-thirds Indian, it should be softer 
and baked in deep earthen or tin pans 
after the following rules : 

Take four quarts of sifted Indian meal : 
put it into a glazed earthen pan, sprinkle 
over it a table-spoonful of fine salt ; pour 
over it about two quarts of boiling 
water, stir and work it till every part of 



the meal is thoroughly wet ; Indian meal 
absorbs a greater quantity of water. 
When it is about milk-warni, work in 
two qriarts of rye mea\ half a 2^^'nt oi 
lively yeast, mixed with a pint of warm 
water ; add more warm water if needed. 
Work the mixture well with your hands : 
it should be stiff", but not firm as flour 
dough. Have ready a large, deep, well 
buttered pan ; put in the dough, and 
smooth the top by putting your hand in 
warm water, and then patting down the 
loaf. Set this to rise in a warm place in 
the winter ; in the summer it shoidd not 
be put by the fire. When it begins to 
crack, on the top, which will usually be 
in about an hour or an hour and a half, 
put it into a well heated oven, and bake 
it three or four hours. It is better to 
let it stand in the oven all night, unless 
the weather is warm. Indian meal re- 
quires to be well cooked. The loaf will 
weigh between seven and eight pounds. 

There is another mode which many 
persons think preferable. Scald a quart 
of rye and another of Indian meal with 
a small quantity of boiling water. Boil 
a teaspoonful of salt in a pint and a half 
of milk, mix the rye and Indian to- 
gether, and pour the milk over them — 
add half a pint of fresh yeast ; but not 
before the meal is cooling. The mixture 
must be well kneaded and placed in a 
deep pan by the fire to rise. When it 
has risen sufficiently, take it out of the 
pan, make it into any shape you like, 
and put it into an oven well heated. If 
the fire is too brisk the crust will brown 
and the inside remain heavy. 

Bake from two to three hours. 

1427.— TO MAKE EXCELLENT BREAD 
WITHOUT YEAST, 

Scald about two handfuls of Indian 
meal ; into which put a little salt, and as 
much cold water as will make it rather 
warmer than new milk ; then stir in 
wheat flour, till it is as thick as a family 



406 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK 



pudding, and set it down by the fire to 
rise. In about half an hour it generally 
grows thin ; you may sprinkle a little 
fresh flour on the top, and mind to turn 
the pot round, that it may not hake at 
the side of it. In three or four hours, if 
you mind the above directions, it will 
rise and ferment as if you had set it 
with hop yeast ; when it does, make it 
up in soft dough, flour a pan, put in 
your bread, set it before the fire, covered 
up, turn it round to* make it equally 
warm, and in about half an hour it will 
be light enough to bake. It suits best to 
bake it in a Dutch oven, as it should be 
put into the oven as soon as it is light. 

1428.— TO MAKE YEAST. 

The settlings of home-brewed beer in 
a clean cask, make good yeast. Com- 
mon yeast is made thus : 

Take two quarts of water, one hand- 
ful of hops, two of wheat bran ; boil these 
twenty minutes; strain off the water, 
and while it is boiling hot, stir in wheat 
or rye flour, to a thick batter : when 
this is milk-warm, add half a pint of 
good lively yeast and a large spoonful of 
molasses ; stir well and set it away, in a 
cool place in summer and a warm one in 
winter. When light it is fit for use. 
When cold, it may be put in a clean jug 
or bottle ; do not fill the vessel contain- 
ing it, and leave the cork loose till next 
morning. Corked tightly, it will keep 
ten or twelve days in a cool place. 

1429.— MILK YEAST. 

To a pint of new milk put a teaspoon- 
ful of salt or a large spoonful of flour ; 
stir well, and keep it lukewarm by the 
fire ; in an hour it will be fit for use. 
Twice as much must be used as of com- 
mon yeast ; and the bread dries soon ; 
and in summer this method is conven- 
ient. 

Never keep yeast in a tin vessel. If 
Bour, put in saleratus — a teaspoonful to 



a pint of yeast, when ready for use. If 
it foams up lively, it will raise the bread ; 
if not, throw it away. 

14.30.— RICE BPvEAD. 

Boil soft a pint of rice ; when cold, 
add a pint of leaven, and work in three 
quarts of flour. It will be light in an 
hour in warm weather. Divide the 
dough into three loaves, and bake in but- 
tered tin pans. It grows dry soon. 

1431.— YEAST CAKES. 

Boil three ounces hops in six quarts 
water, down to two quarts. Strain it, 
and while boiling hot, stir in wheat 
or rye meal to a batter. When milk- 
warm, add half a pint of good yeast, and 
let it stand till very light — about three 
hours. Then work in sifted Indian meal 
till it is stiff dough. Roll out and cut 
it in cakes three inches by two, half an 
inch thick. Lay these cakes on a smooth 
board, floured ; prick them with a fork, 
and place them in a dry store room, ex- 
posed to sun and air. Turn them every 
day. They will be dry in a fortnight. 
When dry, put them into a coarse, cot- 
ton bag, and hang them in a cool, dry 
place. They will keep a year. Two 
will raise a peck of flour. Break them 
into a pint of milk-warm water, and stir 
in a spoonful of flour the evening before 
you bake ; then set it in a moderately 
warm place till morning. 

Bread made at home is not only more 
palatable, but far more economical. A 
stove will bake with little expense of 
fuel, and the flour used for a family will 
cost one-third less than bread bought. 
You are sure too, that good flour is used, 
and that your bread contains no alum, 
ammonia, or sulphate of zinc, which it is 
said bakers put in to make their bread 
light and white. Baker's bread is nearly 
tasteles«!, dries directly, and can not be 
as nutritious as bread baked at home. 
Ladies keeping house in the city ought 



BISCUITS. 



46^ 



to make their own bread as well as cake, 
or at least superintend the process. It 
requires no sacrifice of time, and is a 
neat, delicate, and ladylike emploj'ment. 
Three things, however, are requisite — 
yeast just lively enough, dough just 
light enough, and an oven just hot 
enough. Practice will show how to at- 
tain perfection in these respects. 

1432— POTATO BARM. 

Boil half an ounce of hops in four 
quarts of water, and leave it till the hops 
sink ; then strain it into an earthen pot, 
and, when milk-warm, add three table- 
spoonfuls of sugar and half a pint of flour, 
leave it near the fire, frequently stirring 
it, for twentj^-fonr hours. Then add four 
pounds potatoes pounded and pulped 
through a colander; they are best un- 
boiled. When the mixture is well risen, 
half a pint will do for four quarts of 
flour. The bread requires much knead- 
ing, and should be left eight or ten hours 
to rise. A few spoonfuls of beer barm 
are an improvement to the stock, which 
should not be allowed to run out, as a 
little of the old will improve a new 
supply. 

Briclc ovens are the best for baking all 
kinds of bread, large cakes and pies ; the 
reason of which is chiefl}' owing to their 
being generally capable of retaining the 
heat a much longer time than one built 
of iron. 

For the baking of pastry, light bread, 
rolls, and breakfast-cakes, the iron ovens, 
fixed in the usual kitchen ranges, have 
the advantage of requiring but little fire, 
and enabling the cook to regulate its 
temperature. 

1433. -ALMOND BREAD. 

Blanch, and pound in a mortar, half a 
pound of shelled sweet almonds till they 
are a smooth paste, adding rose-water as 
you pound them. They should be done 
the day before they are wanted. Pre- 



pare a pound of loaf-sugar finely pow- 
dered, a teaspoonful of mixed spice, mace, 
nutmeg and cinnamon, and three-quarters 
of a pound of sifted flour. Take fourteen 
eggs, and separate the whites from the 
yolks. Leave out seven of the whites, 
and beat the other seven to a stiff froth. 
Beat the yolks till very thick and smooth, 
and then beat the sugar gradually into 
them, adding the spice. Next stir in the 
white of egg, then the flour, and lastly 
the almonds. You may add twelve drops 
of essence of lemon. 

Put the mixture into a square tin pan, 
well buttered, or into a copper or tin- 
turban mould, and set it immediately ni 
a brisk oven. Ice it when cool. It is 
best when eaten fresh. 

You may add a few bitter almonds to 
the sweet ones. 

1434. -DAMASCUS BISCUITS. 

Take the whites of three eggs beaten 
to a froth, a quarter of a pound of good 
beef suet chopped very fine, and half an 
ounce of bitter almonds blanched, chop- 
ped fine, and beaten well with the froth of 
the eggs. Then take the yolks of the 
eggs, and mix with six ounces of sifted 
loaf sugar, beat well, pour into the mix- 
ture of almonds and whites of egg ; mix 
well, and shake in two ounces of flour, 
with suflBcient lemon to flavor them. 
Pour into small tins, or moulded papers, 
and bake in a quick oven. 

1485.— MILK BISCUITS. 

A quarter of a pound of butter, one- 
quart of milk, one gill of yeast, as much 
flour as will form the dough, and a little 
salt. Stir flour into the milk, so a.s to 
form a very thick batter, and add the 
yeast ; this is called a sponge. This 
should be done in the evening ; in the 
morning cut up the butter, and set it 
near the fire, where it will dissolve, but 
not get hot ; pour the me'ted butter into 
the sponge, then stir in enough flour to 



468 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



form a dough, knead it well and stand it 
away to rise. As soon as it is perfectly 
light, butter your tins, make out the 
dough in small cakes, and let them rise. 
When they are light, bake thera in a very 
quick oven, and send them to the table hot. 

I486.— E0LL8. 

French Rolls are usually made by the 
bakers, but in country houses, where 
families bake their own bread, they may 
be done as follows : — 

Sift one pound of flour, and rub into it 
two ounces of butter ; mix in the whites 
only of three eggs beaten to a froth, and 
a table-spoonful of strong yeast ; to which 
add enough of milk, with a little salt, to 
make a stiff dough, and set it covered be- 
fore the fire to rise — which will take 
about an hour; and, if cut into small 
rolls, and put into a quick oven, will be 
done in little more than ten minutes. 

1437.— EOCKS. 

Take a loaf that is half baked, pull it 
apart, and with two forks tear the crumb 
into bits about the size of a walnut ; lay 
them on a tin, and return them to the 
oven, and bake of a light brown. A loaf 
made for the purpose with milk and a 
little butter makes them nicer. A sweet 
cake pulled in this way is very good. 

148S.— MUFFINS. 

Take two eggs, two spoonfuls of new 
yeast, and a little salt. Mix a httle 
warm new milk and water into a quart 
of flour. Beat all well together, and let 
it stand to rise. Bake them for about 
twenty minutes, until of a light brown, 
eitlier on a hot iron, or in shallow tin 
rings in a Dutch oven. When to be 
brought to table, toast them slightly on 
both sides, but not in the middle : then 
notch them round the centre, and pull 
them open with your fingers, without 
using a knife, and butter them. 



1439.— CRUMPETS. 

Beat two eggs very well, put to them 
a quart of warm milk and water, and a 
large spoonful of yeast ; beat in as much 
fine flour as will make them rather thicker 
than a common batter pudding ; then 
make the stove hot, and rub it with a 
Httle butter wrapped in a clean linen 
cloth ; pour a large spoonful of the batter 
upon the iron, and let it run within a 
ring to the size of a teasaucer ; turn them 
with the elastic blade of an old table- 
knife, and when you want to use them, 
toast them very quickly, but not too 
crisply, and butter them. 

1440.— SALLY -LUNN. 

Into one pint of flour rub a piece of 
butter the size of a walnut, a little salt 
and a little j^east. Let it rise half an 
hour before the fire. Then mix it with 
two eggs, and if not enough add a little 
milk ; knead the dough well and let it 
stand some minutes before the fire ; after 
which make this quantity into five cakes 
and have them slack-baked, as they must 
be well warmed in a Dutch oven before 
being toasted for table. 

1441.— BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 

Mix a quart of buckwheat flour with 
a pint of lukewarm milk, (water will do, 
but is not as good,) and a teacvip of yeast 
— set it in a warm place to rise. When 
light, (which will be in the course of 
eight or ten hours if family yeast is used, 
if brewer's yeast is used they will rise 
much quicker,) add a teaspoonful of salt 
— if sour, the same quantity of saleratus 
dissolved in a little milk, and strained. 
If they are too thick, thin them with 
cold milk or water. Bake them with 
just x'at enough to prevent their sticking 
to the griddle. 

1442.— EICE CAKES. 

Boil a cupful of rice until it becomes 



BREAKFAST CAKES. 



469 



soft ; while it is warm mix a large 
lump of butter with it and a little salt. 
Add as much milk to a small teacupful of 
flour and a little corn meal, scalded, as 
will make a tolerably stiff" batter — stir it 
until it is quite smooth and then mix it 
with the rice. Beat five eggs as light as 
possible and add them to the rice. 

These cakes are fried on a griddle as 
all other pancakes — they must be care- 
fully turned. 

Serve them with powdered sugar and 
nutmeg. They should be served as hot 
as possible. 

144.3. -FLANNEL CAKES AND WAFFLES. 

Stir into two pints of flour as much 
milk as will make a light batter. Melt 
a large lump of butter and add with it a 
little .salt. Beat together five eggs and 
stir them into the batter. 

These cakes are to be baked on a 
griddle. Serve them with powdered 
sugar. 

It is customary to mix with the butter 
a table-spoonful of yeast and leave it to 
rise for several hours ; but this is un- 
necessary unless you wish to bake the 
cakes in waffle or wafer irons. 

1444.-EGG BISCUIT. 

One pound of flour ; wet nearly all of 
it to a paste with the whites of two eggs, 
beat and roll out thin, work in three- 
quarters of a pound of butter, placing 
bits on the paste, flouring, folding, and 
rolling it out again till all is used. Move 
the rolling pin from you always. Cut 
out in small squares or with a tumbler, 
and bake in a quick oven. 

1445.— APPLE BREAD. 

A very light pleasant bread is made in 
France by a mixture of apples and flour, 
in the proportion of one of the former 
to two of the latter. The usual quantity 
of yeast is employed as in making com- 
30 



mon bread, and is beat with flour and 
warm pulp of the apples after they have 
boiled, and the dough is then considered 
as set : it is then put in a proper vessel, 
and allowed to rise for eight or twelve 
hours, and then baked in long loaves. 
Very little water is requisite ; none, ge- 
nerally, if the apples are very fresh. 

1446.— JOHNNY CAKES. 

Sift a quart of corn meal into a pan, 
make a hole in the middle, and pour in a 
pint of warm water. Mix the meal and 
water gradually into a batter, adding a 
teaspoonful of salt ; beat it very quickly, 
and for a long time, till it becomes quite 
light ; then spread it thick and even on 
a stout piece of smooth board ; place it 
upright on the hearth before a clear fire, 
with something to support the board be- 
hind, and bake it well ; cut it into 
squares, and split and butter them hot. 

Cakes ma)'^ also be made with a quart 
of milk, three eggs, one teaspoonful of 
carbonate of soda, and one teacupful of 
wheat-flour ; add Indian meal sufficient 
to make a batter like that of pancakes, 
and either bake it in buttered pans, or 
upon a griddle, and eat them with 
butter. 

1447.— INDIAN GRIDDLE CAKES 

Are made with one pint of Indian meal, 
four table-spoonfuls of flour, one quart of 
milk, four eggs, and salt to taste. 

144S.— TO MAKE RUSK. 

Take a piece of bread- dough large 
enough to fill a quart bowl, one teacup 
of melted butter, one egg, one teaspoon- 
ful of saleratus ; knead quite hard, roU 
out thin, lap it together, roll to the thick- 
ness of a thin biscuit, cut out with a bis- 
cuit mould, and set it to rise in a warm 
place. From twenty to thirty minutes 
will generally be sufficient. Bake them 
and dry thoroughly through, and you 



470 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



will have an excellent rusk to eat with 
your coffee. You can make them with 
hop yeast, and sweeten them, too, if you 
please ; use milk with yeast. 

1449.— BANNOCK OR INDIAN MEAL 
CAKES. 

Stir to a cream a pound and a quarter 
of brown sugar, a pound of butter — beat 
six eggs, and mix them with the sugar 
and butter — add a teaspoonful of cinna- 
mon or ginger — stir in a pound and three- 
qiiarters of white Indian meal, and a 
quarter of a pound of wheat flour, (the 
meal should be sifted.) Bake it in small 
cups, and let it remain in them till cold. 




Com Cake Pan. 



1450.— RtJSK. 



Melt four ounces of butter in half a 
pint of new milk ; then add to this seven 
eggs, well beaten, a quarter of a pint of 
yeast, and three ounces of sugar; put 
this mixture, by degrees, into as much 
flour as will make an extremely light 
paste, more like batter, and set it to rise 
before the fire for half an hour ; then 
add more flour to make it rather stiffier, 
but not stiff. Work it well, and divide 
it into small loaves or cakes, about five 
or six inches wide, and flatten them. 
When baked and cold, slice them the 
thickness of rusks, and brown them a 
little in the oven. 

1451.— MUFFINS. 

Mix a quart of wheat flour smoothly 
with a pint and a half of lukewarm milk, 
half a teacup of j'east, a couple of beaten 
eggs, a heaping teaspoonful of salt, and a 
couple of table-spoonfuls of lukewarm 
melted butter. Set the batter in a warm 
place to rise. When light, butter your 



muflfin-cups, turn in the mixture, and 
bake the mufBns till a light brown. 

1462.— SOFT WAFFLES. 

Stir into a quart of flour sufficient 
hikewarm milk to make a thick batter. 
The milk should be stirred in gradually, 
so as to have it free from lumps. Put 
in a table-spoonful of melted butter, a 
couple of beaten eggs, a teaspoonful of 
salt, and half a teacup of yeast. When 
risen, fill your waffle-irons with the batter 
— bake them on a bed of coals. When 
they have been on the fire between two 
and three minutes, turn the waffle-irons 
over — when brown on both sides, they 
are sufficiently baked. The waffle-irons 
should be well greased with lard, and 
very hot, before each one is put in. 
The waffles should be buttered as soon as 
cooked. Serve them up with powder- 
ed white sugar and cinnamon. 

For Rice Waffles. — Take a teacup and 
a half of boiled rice — warm it with a pint 
of milk, mix it smooth, then take it from 
the fire, stir in a pint of cold milk, and 
a teaspoonful of salt. Beat four eggs, 
and stir them in, together with sufficient 
flour to make a thick batter. 

1453.— SHORT CAKES. 

Dissolve half a pound of fresh butter 
in as much milk as will make a pound 
and a half of flour into a paste, roll it 
out about a quarter of an inch thick, and 
cut it into large round cakes. Do them 
in a frying-pan, and serve them hot. 
They are eaten with butter. 

1454.— WAFER CAKES. 

Wafer cakes are an excellent tea cake, 
and they do not take long to make, al- 
though a little practice is necessary be- 
fore they can be successfully made. 

Beat three eggs quite light. Wash a 
little less than a quarter of a pound of 
butter, to extract the salt from it, and 
mix it with a quarter of a pound of 



BREAKFAST CAKES. 



471 



ijtfted sugar — add the beaten eggs, a tea- 
spoonful of rose-water, and as much sifted 
flour as will make a thin batter. Stir 
the batter with a wooden spoon unt'l it 
is perfectly smooth and so light as to 
break when it falls against the sides of 
the Tessel. Your wafer-iron should be 
heated, bu| not too hot, or the butter 
will burn. Grease the iron with butter 
tied up in a linen rag, twice doubled. 
Fill the iron with the batter and close it. 
Place it in the fire in such a manner 
that both sides will heat at once ; if this 
cannot be done turn the iron frequently. 
The batter will be cooked in about two 
minutes if properly managed. 

You may sprinkle the wafer with 
pounded sugar and roll it over a smooth 
stick made for the purpose. 

Southern biscuit is made with a large 
spoonful of lard to a pint of flour ; add 
salt, knead the dough, and beat it well. 

1455.— MILK TOAST. 

Boil a pint of rich milk, and then take 
it off and stir into it a quarter of a pound 
of fresh butter, mixed with a small table- 
spoonful of flour. Then let it again 
come to a boil. Have ready two deep 
plates with half a dozen slices of toast 
in each. Pour the milk over them hot, 
and keep them covered till they go to 
table. Milk toast is generally eaten at 
breakfast. 

The warming of the bread gradually 
through, on both sides, is a very great 
improvement upon the quality of the 
toast. 

All kinds of toast must be done the 
same way ; but if to be served under a 
bird, eggs, or kidneys, it requires to be 
toasted drier. 

Dry toast should not be made until 
quite ready to serve ; when done, place 
it in a toast-rack, or upon its edges, one 
piece resting against another. Any kind 
of toast that has been made half an hour 
is not worth eating. 



1456.— MILK ROLLS. 

Have a convenient-sized tasin, into 
which put half a pound of the best flour, 
making a hole in the middle ; add half 
an ounce of yeast, one ounce of butter, a 
teaspoonful of powdered sugar, and half 
ditto of salt, over which pour three 
large wineglassfuls of lukewarm milk ; 
mix the whole, by degrees, with your 
hand, (using a little more flour.) until 
forming a stiflHsh paste ; rub off" the 
paste which adheres to your fingers, and 
form the whole into a ball, which leave 
at the bottom of the basin, covered over 
with a clean cloth, and set it half an hour 
to rise, in a warmish place, after which 
throw a little flour upon a dresser, cut 
the paste into pieces the size of eggs, 
mould them of a round, oval, or any 
other shape you may fancy, egg over with 
a paste-brush, and place them upon a 
baking-sheet, or upon the bottom of the 
oven if clean and not too hot ; bake 
quickly. 

Kolls are made with soda and cream 
of tartar ; a teaspoonful of the first to two 
of the latter. Or, with sour cream and 
soda, instead of yeast. 

1457.— TOPS AND BOTTOMS. 

Make a dough as for rusks, but using 
only half the butter ; have a deep-edged 
baking-sheet well buttered, and when 
the dough is ready, turn it on to a dress- 
er, well floured ; divide into small pieces 
the size of walnuts, which mould into 
round balls, and place close together 
upon the baking-sheet; put them in a 
warm place to rise, and bake well in a 
moderate oven. When colc^, divide and 
cut each one in halves (making a top and 
bottom) which brown in the oven. 

1453.— BUNS. 

Put three pounds of flour in an earth- 
en pan, make a bole in the middle, in 
which put some yeast, dissolved in three 



472 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



parts of a pint of warm water, and stir 
in a little of the flour, forming a thinnish 
batter ; let it remain in a warm place 
nearly an hour, until well fermented ; 
then add half a pound of sugar, a few 
currants, and half a pound of butter, 
dissolved in nearly a pint of warm milk ; 
mix the whole well together, making a 
soft but dry dough ; let it remain in a 
warm place until it rises very light, then 
turn it out of the pan on to a board ; 
work it well with the hands, shaking 
flour over lightly; then mould it into 
small round balls, double the size of wal- 
nuts, which place upon a buttered bak- 
ing-sheet, four inches apart ; moisten the 
tops with milk ; put them in a warm 
place to rise ; not, however, permitting 
them to crack, and bake them in a hot 
oven. 

1459.— SOTER'S BRIOCHE ROLLS. 

Put four pounds of flour upon a dress- 
er, one pound of which put on one side, 
make a hole in the middle, into which 
pour nearly three parts of a pint of warm 
water, in which you have dissolved yeast ; 
mix it into a stiff' but delicate paste, 
which roll up into a ball : cut an incision 
across it, and lay it in a basin well flour- 
ed, in a warm place, until becoming very 
light; then make a large hole in the 
centre of the three pounds of flour, into 
which put half an ounce of salt, two 
pounds of fresh butter, half a gill of 
water, and sixteen eggs ; mix it into a 
softish flexible paste, which press out 
flat, lay the leaven upon it, folding it 
over and working with the hands until 
well amalgamated; flour a clean cloth, 
fold the paste in it and let it remain all 
night. In the morning mould them into 
small rolls ; put them upon a baking- 
sheet, and bake in a moderate oven. Un- 
less your breakfast party be very large, 
half the above quantity will be sufficient. 
These rolls being a luxury, I make them 
only upon very especial occasions. 



BUTTER. 

Mrs. Hale says : " Always to make 
good butter or cheese shows great care 
and excellent judgment in the farmer's 
wife. When every department of the 
dairy is kept perfectly neat, there is 
hardly any exhibition of woman's indus- 
try more likely to make her husband 
proud, or gratify a beholder of good sense 
and benevolence, than the sight of a neat 
dairy-room filled with the rich, valuable 
productions which her skill has fashion- 
ed from the milk of the cow. 

" The secret of success in the dairy is 
strict attention and scrupulous neatness 
in all its operations. The best time to 
make butter is in June, when the pas- 
tures are rich with clover, and Septem- 
ber, when the fall feed is in its perfec- 
tion. July and August are the months 
for cheese ; then the rich new milk and 
cream cheeses are made. 

" To insure good butter, you must al- 
ways scald your pails, &c., in hot water, 
and then heat them by the fire, or in 
the hot sun, so that they may be per- 
fectly sweet. 

" Keep your cream in a cool place in 
summer, and churn twice a week. 

" Woric otit all the buttermilk. — This 
must be done, or the butter will not 
keep well ; and do not make the butter 
too salt. 

" Never put butter in a pine tub. 

" Piclcle for Butter. — Allow half a 
pound of salt, an ounce of saltpetre, and 
lialf a pound of sugar to three quarts of 
water ; dissolve them together ; scald 
and skim the pickle ; let it be entirely 
cold, and then pour it over the butter 

" Keep your cheese in a dark, cool 
room, and turn and rub them every day. 
The fat fried out of salt pork, is the best 
preservative to rub on cheese, and gives 
a rich color and smoothness to the rind. 



BUTTEK. 



473 



" Never wash your cheese shelves ; 
but always wipe them clean with a dry 
cloth, when you turn your cheese. 

" Do not heat the milk too hot ; it 
should never, for new milk cheese, be 
more than blood-warm ; be sure that 
your rennet is good, and do not use more 
than it requires to bring the curd. 

" Cover the pan or tub in which milk 
is set to coagulate, and do not disturb it 
for half an hour or more. 

" Cut the curd, when fully formed, 
carefully with a knife ; never break it 
with your hand ; and be very particular, 
when draining it from the whey, not to 
squeeze or handle the curd ; if you make 
the tchite irhey run from the curd, you 
lose much of the richness of the cheese." 

1460.— TO CUBE BUTTER IN THE BEST 
MANNER. 

The following receipt is from " The 
Housewife's Manual," a work said to 
have been prepared by Sir Walter 
Scott. 

Having washed and beaten the butter 
free of buttermilk, work it quickly up, 
allowing a scanty half ounce of fine salt 
to the pound. Let the butter lie for 
twenty-four hours, or more ; then, for 
every pound, allow a half ounce of the 
following mixture: — Take four ounces 
of salt, two of loaf sugar, and a quarter 
of an ounce of saltpetre. Beat them all 
well together, and work the mixture 
thoroughly into the butter ; then pack it 
down in jars or tubs. Instead of strew- 
ing a layer of salt on the top of the but- 
ter, which makes the first slice unfit for 
use, place a layer of the above mixture 
in folds of thin muslin, stitch it loosely, 
and lay this neatly over the top, which 
will effectually preserve it. 

To freshen salt hutter. — Churn it anew 
in sweet milk, a quart to the pound. The 
butter will gain in weight. 

To improve rancid butter. — Wash it, 



melt it gradually, skim it, and put to it 
a slice of charred or hard toasted bread, 
or some bits of charcoal. 

1461.— TO MAKE BUTTER. 

The milk pans should be scalded 
every day. After the milk has stood 
twenty-four hours skim off the cream, 
and deposit it in a large earthen jar 
kept closely covered. Stir up the cream 
with a stick every day to prevent the 
skin from gathering. Butter of only 
two or three days is best. Strain the 
cream from the jar into the churn and 
put on the lid. In warm weather move 
the handle slowly, or the butter will be 
too soft. When the handle moves with 
great difficulty the butter has come. 
Take it out with a wooden ladle and 
squeeze out the remains of milk. Add a 
little salt and work it well. Set it in a 
cool place for three hours, then work it 
again. Wash it in cold water, and put it 
away for use. 

1462.— BUTTER— TO CLARIFY. 

Scrape off the outsides of the butter 
you may require, and then put it into a 
stewpan by the side of a slow fire, where 
it must remain till the scum rises to the 
top and the milk settles at the bottom ; 
carefully with a spoon take off the scum ; 
when clear, it is fit for use. 

To preserve it for winter, take two 
parts of the best common salt, one part 
of good loaf sugar, and one part salt- 
petre, beat them well together ; to sixteen 
ounces of butter thoroughly cleansed 
from the milk put one ounce of the above 
composition, work it well, and put it into 
pots when quite firm and cold. 



CAKES, &c. 

In making cakes it is indispensat|ly 
necessary that all the ingredients should be 
heated before they are mixed together, 



4T4: 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



for which purpose every thing should be 
prepared for an hour or two previously 
to their being wanted, and placed near 
the fire or upon a stove — the flour 
thoroughly dried and warmed ; the cur- 
rants, sugar, carraway-seed, and any thing 
else required, heated in the same way ; 
butter and eggs should be beaten in 
basins fitted into kettles or pans of warm 
water, which will give them the requisite 
degree of temperature. Without these 
precautions cakes will be heavy, and the 
best materials, with the greatest pains, 
will fail to produce the desired results. 

Currants should be very nicely wash- 
ed, dried in a cloth, and then set before 
the fire. If damp, they will make cakes 
or puddings heavy. Before they are to 
be used, a dust of dry flour should be 
thrown among them, and a shake given 
to them, which causes the cakes to be 
fighter. 

Eggs should be very long beaten, 
whites and yolks apart, and always 
strained. 

Sugar should be pounded in a mortar, 
or rubbed to a powder on a clean board, 
and sifted through a very fine hair or 
lawn sieve. 

Lemon-peel should be grated or pared 
very thin, and, with a little sugar, beaten 
in a marble mortar to a paste ; and then 
mixed with a little wine or cream, so as 
to divide easily among the other ingre- 
dients. The pans should be of earthen- 
ware ; nor should eggs or batter and 
sugar be beaten in tins, as the coldness 
of the metal will prevent them from be- 
coming light. 

Use no flour but the best superfine ; 
for if the flour be of inferior quality the 
cakes will be heavy, ill colored, and unfit 
to eat; but if a little potato-flour be 
added, it will improve their lightness. 
Cakes are frequently rendered hard, 
heavy, and uneatable, by misplaced 
eccfhomy in eggs and butter, or for want 
of a due seasoning in spice and sugar. 




After all the articles are put into the 
pan, they should be thoroughly and long 
beaten, as the lightness of the cake de- 
pends much on their being well in- 
corporated. 

Accuracy in proportioning the ingre- 
dients is also indispensable ; and there- 
fore scales, weights, and measures, down 
to the smallest quantity, are of the ut- 
most importance. 




Iron ovens are desirable, as well for 
their economy of fuel as for the short 
time in which they can be heated, and on 
account of the celerity and convenience 
with which one person may prepare large 
quantities of small pastry, and bake it 
also. 

The most vigilant care and attention 
are necessary in order to secure success 
in the baking of delicate pastry or cakes ; 
for however well they may have been pre- 
pared, if not equally well baked, the re- 
sult will be unsatisfactory. 

If the oven be not lighted long enough 
to have a body of heat, or if it is become 
slack, the cake will be heavy. If not 
pretty quick, the batter will not rise. 



PLUM CAKE. 



475 



Should you fear its being too quick, put 
some paper over the cake to prevent its 
being burnt. To know when it is soaked, 
take a broad-bladed knife that is very 
bright, and phinge it into the very centre, 
draw it instantly out, and if the least 
stickiness adheres, put the cake imme- 
diately in again, and shut up the oven. 

If the heat should be suflBcient to 
raise, but not to soak it, let fresh fuel be 
quickly put in, and the cakes kept hot 
until the oven is fit to finish the soak- 
ing. 

Bread and cakes mixed with milk eat 
best when new, but become stale sooner 
than others. 

Cakes kept in drawers or wooden 
boxes have a disagreeable taste. Earthen 
pans and covers, or tin boxes, preserve 
them best ; but in making large cakes of 
any kind, which are to be baked in hoops, 
use those of wood. Cakes made with 
yeast should always be eaten fresh. 

1463.— PLUM CAKE (English). 

Mix thoroughly two quarts of fine 
flour, well dried, with one pound of dry 
and sifted loaf-sugar, three pounds of 
currants washed and very dry, half a 
pound of raisins stoned and chopped, 
one-quarter of an ounce each of mace, 
cloves, and cinnamon, a grated nutmeg, 
the peel of a lemon cut as fine as possible, 
and half a pound of almonds, blanched 
and beaten with orange-flower water. 
Melt two pounds of butter in one and a 
quarter pint of cream, but not hot ; put 
to it one pint of sweet wine, a glass of 
brandy and another of rose-water, with 
the whites and yolks of twelve eggs 
beaten apart, and half a pint of good 
yeast. Strain this hquor by degrees into 
the dry ingredients, beating them to- 
gether a full hour ; then butter the hoop 
or pan, and bake it in a moderate oven 
'or at least four hours. As you put in 
the batter, throw in plenty of citron, 
lemon, and orange candy. 



If you ice the cake, when it is nearly 
cold pour the icing over, and return it 
to the oven, where it should be left all 
night, or until it becomes cold ; but if 
the oven be warm, keep it near the mouth, 
and the door open, lest the color be spoil- 
ed ; or the icing may be left until the 
next morning. 

1464.— PLUM NEW ENGLAND WEDDING 

CAKE. 

One pound of dry flour, one pound of 
sweet butter, one pound of sugar, twelve 
eggs, two pounds of raisins, (the sultana 
raisins are the best,) two pounds of cur- 
rants, as much spice as you please. A 
glass of wine, one of brandy, and a pound 
of citron. Mix the butter and sugar as 
for pound cake. Sift the spice, and beat 
the eggs very light. Put in the fruit last, 
stirring it in gradually. It should be well 
floured. If necessary add more flour 
after the fruit is in. Butter sheets of 
paper, and line the inside of one large 
pan, or two smaller ones. Lay in some 
slices of citron, then a layer of the mix- 
ture, then of the citron, and so on till the 
pan is full. This cake requires a toler- 
ably hot and steady oven, and will need 
baking four or five hours, according to 
its thickness. It will be better to let it 
cool gradually in the oven. Ice it when 
thoroughly cold. 

1465.-FEOSTING CAKES. 

Allow for the white of one egg nme 
heaping teaspoonfuls of double-refined 
sugar, and one of nice starch. The 
sugar and starch should be pounded 
and sifted through a very fine sieve. 
Beat the whites of eggs to a stiff" froth, 
so that you can turn the plate upside 
down, without the eggs falling from it — 
then stir in the sugar gradually with 
a wooden spoon — stir it ten or fifteen 
minutes without any cessation — then add 
a teaspoonful of lemon juice, (vinegar 
will answer, but is not as nice.) — put in 



476 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



suflBcient rose-water to flavor it. If you 
wish to color it pink, stir in a few grains 
of cochineal powder, or rose pink ; if you 
wish to have it of a blue tinge, add a 
little of what is called powder blue. Lay 
the frosting on the cake with a knife, 
soon after it is taken from the oven — 
smooth it over, and let it remain in a cool 
place till hard. To frost a common-sized 
loaf of cake, allow tlie white of one egg, 
and half of another. 

1466.— SMALL PLUM CAKE. 

One pound and a half of raisins, one 
pound and a half of currants, half a pound 
of butter, half a pound of flour, five eggs, 
half a teacup of molasses, half a pound of 
sugar, half a pound of citron, one gill of 
brandy, spice to taste, three nutmegs. 




Cake Mould, with Cylinder. 

146T.— GERMAN SUGAR CAKES. 

Blend well with the fingers six ounces 
of good butter, with a pound 'of fine 
flour, working it quite into crumbs ; add 
a few grains of salt, one pound of dry 
sifted sugar, a table-spoonful of the best 
cinnamon in very fine powder, and a 
large teaspoonful of spices : to these the 
grated rinds of three sound fresh lemons 
can be added, or not, at pleasure. Make 
these ingredients into a paste, with the 
yolks of five eggs, and about four table- 
spoonfuls of white wine, or with one or 
two more in addition, if required, as this 
must be regulated by the size of the 
eggs : half of very thick cream and half 
of wine are sometimes used for them. 
Roll the mixture into balls, flatten them 
to something less than three-quarters of 
an inch thick, and bake them in a mod- 



erate oven from fifteen to twenty min- 
utes. Loosen them from the baking- 
sheets — which sliould be lightly floured 
before they are laid on — by passing a 
knife under them, turn them over, and 
when they are quite cold, stow them in 
a dry, close-shutting canister. The Ger- 
mans make three incisions on the top of 
each cake with the point of a knife, and 
lay spikes of split almonds in them. 

1468.-BRIDE CAKE. 
Wash two pounds and a half of fresh 
butter in plain water first, and then in 
rose-water ; beat the butter to a cream ; 
beat twenty eggs, yolks and whites sep- 
arately, half an hour each. Have ready- 
two pounds and a half of the finest flour, 
well dried and kept hot, likewise one 
pound and a half of sugar pounded and 
sifted, one ounce of spice in fine powder, 
three pounds of currants nicely cleaned 
and dry, half a pound of almonds blanch- 
ed, and three-quarters of a pound of 
sweetmeats cut, not too thin. Let all be 
kept by the fire, mix all the dry ingre- 
dients, pour the eggs strained to the 
butter, but beat the whites of the eggs 
to a strong froth ; mix half a pint of 
sweet wine with the same quantity of 
brandy, pour it to the butter and eggs, 
mix well, then have all the dry things 
put in by degrees ; beat them very 
thoroughly — ^you can hardly do it too 
much. Having half a pound of stoned 
jar-raisins chopped as fine as possible, 
mix them carefully, so that there should 
be no lump, and add a teacupful of 
orange-flower water ; beat the mgredients 
together a full hour at least. Have a 
hoop well buttered ; take a white paper, 
doubled and buttered, and put in the pan 
round the edge ; do not fill it more than 
three parts with batter, fis space should 
be allowed for rising. Bake in a quick 
oven. It will require full three hours. 
In making cakes of a larger size, put at 
the rate of eight eggs to every pound of 



CAXE. 



477 



flour, and other ingredients in the same 
proportion. 

The cake must be covered with an 
icing. 

1469.— QUEEN CAKE. 

Mix one pound of dried flour, the same 
of sifted sugar and of washed currants. 
Wash one pound of butter in rose-water, 
beat it well, then mix with it eight eggs, 
yolks and whites beaten separately, and 
put in the dry ingredients by degrees ; 
beat the whole an hour ; butter little tins, 
teacups, or saucers, filling them only half 
full. Sift a little fine sugar over just as 
you put them into the oven. 

1470.-PLAIN FEUIT CAKE. 

One loaf of bread, half a cup of butter, 
and half a cupful of sugar, half do. of 
molasses, half do. of buttermilk, half do. 
of currants, one do. of raisins, half do. 
citron, three eggs, one teaspoonful salera- 
tus. Season to taste ; brandy if you 
choose. 

1471.— ALMOND CAKE. 

Blanch half a pound of sweet, and 
three ounces of bitter almonds — pound 
them to a paste in a mortar with orange- 
flower water — add half a pound of sifted 
loaf sugar, and a little brandy — whisk 
separately, for half an hour, the whites 
and yolks of twenty eggs, and tb.e yolks 
to the almonds and sugar, and then stir 
in the whites, and beat them all well to- 
gether. Butter a tin pan, sift bread- 
raspings over it, put the cake into it, 
over the top of which strew sifted loaf- 
sugar. Bake it in a quick oven for half 
or three-quarters of an hour. 

14T2.— HONEY CAKE. 

One pound and a half of dried and 
sifted flour, three-quarters of a pound of 
honey, half a pound of finely pounded 
loaf sugar, a quarter of a pound of citron. 



and half an ounce of orange-peel cut 
small ; of pounded ginger and cinnamon 
three-quarters of an ounce. Melt the 
sugar with the honey, and mix in the 
other ingredients ; roll out the paste, 
and cut it into small cakes of any form. 

1473.— COCOA-NUT CAKES. 

Take equal weights of grated cocoa- 
nut and powdered white sugar, (the 
brown part of the cocoa-nut should be 
cut off" before grating it,) — add the whites 
of eggs beaten to a stifi" froth in the 
proportion of half a dozen to a pound 
each of cocoa-nut and sugar. There 
should be just eggs enough to wet up 
the whole stiff". Drop the mixture on 
buttered plates, in parcels of the size 
of a cent, several inches apart. Bake 
them immediately in a moderately warm 
oven. 

1474.— SAVOY CAKES. 

Beat eight eggs to a froth — the whites 
and yolks should be beaten separately, 
then mixed together, and a pound of 
powdered white sugar stirred in gradu- 
ally. Beat the whole well together, for 
eight or ten minutes, then add the grated 
rind of a fresh lemon, and half the juice, 
a pound of sifted flour, a couple of table- 
spoonfuls of coriander seed. Drop this 
mixture by the large spoonful on but- 
tered baking plates, several inches apart, 
sift white sugar over them, and bake 
them immediately in a quick oven. 

1475.— SPONGE CAKE. 

Take the weight of ten eggs in pow- 
dered loaf sugar, beat it to a froth with 
the yolks of twelve eggs, put in the 
grated rind of a fresh lemon, leaving out 
the white part — add half the juice. Beat 
the whites of twelve eggs to a stiff' froth, 
and mix them with the sugar and butter, 
Stir the whole without any cessation foi 
fifteen minutes, then stir in graduallj 



478 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



the weight of six eggs in sifted flour. 
As soon as the flour is well mixed in. 
turn the cake into pans lined with but- 
tered paper — bake it immediately in a 
quick, but not a furiously hot oven. It 
will bake in the course of twenty minutes. 
If it bakes tocf fast, cover it with thick 
paper. 

14T6.— POUND CAKE. 

Mix a pound of sugar with a pound of 
butter. When worked white, stir in the 
yolk of eight eggs, beaten to a froth, then 
the whites. Add a pound of sifted flour, 
and mace or nutmeg to the taste. If 
you wish to have your cake particularly 
nice, stir in, just before you put it into 
the pans, a quarter of a pound of citron, 
or almonds blanched and powdered fine 
in rose-water, and a glass of brandy. 

14T7.^JUMBLES. 

Stir together, till of a light color, a 
pound of sugar and half the weight of 
butter — then add eight eggs, beaten to a 
froth, essence of lemon, or rose-water, to 
the taste, and flour to make them suffi- 
ciently stift" to roll out. Roll them out 
in powdered sugar, ' about half an inch 
thick, cut it into strips about half an 
inch wfde, and four inches long, join the 
ends together, so as to form rings, lay 
them on flat tins that have been buttered 
and bake them in a quick oven. 

14T8.— NEW-YEAK'S COOKIES. 

Weigh out a pound of sugar, three- 
quarters of a pound of butter — stir them 
to a cream, then add three beaten eggs, 
a grated nutmeg, two table-spoonfuls of 
caraway seed, and a pint of flour. Dis- 
solve a teaspoonful of saleratus in a tea- 
cup of milk, strain and mix it with half 
a teacup of cider, and stir it into the 
cookies — then add flour to make them 
sufficiently stiff to roll out. Bake them 
as soon as cut into cakes, in a quick oven, 
till a light brown. 



1479.— NEW YOEK CUP CAKE. 
One cup butter, two of sugar, three of 
flour, one of milk or cream ; four eggs, 
a wine-glass of brandy — a nutmeg grated, 
a teaspoonful of soda, two of cream of 
tartar. Dissolve the soda in the milk 
rub the cream of tartar dry in the flour. 

14S0.— WASHINGTON CAKE. 

One and three-quarter pounds flour, 
one and a quarter sugar, three-quarters 
of a pound of butter, four eggs, two tea- 
spoonfuls of cream of tartar, one of 
soda, half a pint of milk, two pounds 
raisins, two glasses of brandy, one nut- 
meg, spice to taste. 

1481.— GINGEK WAFERS. 

Three cups sugar, two of butter, one 
of milk, three table-spoonfuls of ginger, 
two teaspoonfuls of soda in the milk ; 
flour enough to make it a dough. Roll 
it very thin, and bake in cakes. 

14S2.— INDIAN CORN CAKE. 

One pint of milk, half a pound In- 
dian-meal, two eggs ; two ounces butter, 
half a teaspoonful of soda, a whole one 
of salt. Bake three-quarters of an hour. 

14SS.— SOYER'S ST. JAMES'S CAKE. 

Put one pound of' very fresh butter in 
a good-sized kitchen basin, and with the 
right hand work it up well till it forms 
quite a white cream ; then add one 
pound powdered sugar, mix well, add 
ten eggs by degrees ; put to dry a pound 
and a quarter of flour, which mix as 
lightly as possible with it ; blanch and 
cut in slices two ounces of pistachios, 
two ditto of green preserved angelica, 
add two liquor glasses of noyeau, two 
drops of essence of vanilla ; whip a gill 
and a half of cream till verj^ thick, mix 
lightly with a wooden spoon, have a mould, 
put it in, and ' send to the baker ; it will 



CAKE. 



479 



take about one hour and a quarter to 
bake. 

1484.— SOTEE'S TURBAN OF ALMOND 
CAKE ICED. 

This is a very good and useful second 
course remove. Make half a pound of 
puff paste, give it nine rolls, rolling it 
the last time to the thickness of a penny- 
piece, have ready blanched and chopped 
a pound of sweet almonds, which put in 
a basin with half a pound of powdered 
sugar and the whites of two eggs, or 
little more if required ; spread it over 
the paste the thickness of a shilling, and 
with a knife cut the pas+e into pieces 
two inches and a half in length and 
nearly one in breadth, place them upon 
a baking-sheet, and bake nicely a very 
light brown color, in a moderate oven ; 
dress them on a stiff border of any kind 
of stiff jam or marmalade, so as to form 
a large crown, according to the size you 
require it ; then fill the interior with va- 
nilla cream, or any other, iced, but not 
too hard, and bring it up to a point ; the 
cake may be cut into any shape you 
fancy, but never make them too large. 

1485.— CIDEK CAKE. 

Cider cake is very good, to be baked 
in small loaves. One pound and a half 
of flour, half a pound of sugar, quarter 
of a pound of butter, half a ])int of cider, 
one teaspoonful of pearlash ; spice to 
your taste. Bake till it turns easily in 
the pans. I should think about half an 
hour. 

I486.— THE HOUSEWIFE'S CHRISTMAS 

CAKE. 

Take two pounds of pounded sugar- 
candy, two pounds of flour, two pounds 
of butter, thirty-six eggs, four pounds of 
currants, a pound of raisins stoned and 
chopped, half a pound of almonds blanch- 
ed and chopped, half a pound of citron, 
a pound of candied orange-peel, the same 



of candied lemon-peel, a large nutmeg 
pounded, half an ounce of powdered all- 
spice, half an ounce of | owdcred maco, 
ginger, cinnamon, and coriander, and half 
a pint of bi'andy. 

All the ingredients should be well 
dried, the white of the eggs well beater 
up separately from the yolks, the butter 
stirred and beaten almost to a cream } 
then add the rest gradually, taking caro 
they are well beaten and mixed. Have 
ready a large tin, well lined with butter- 
ed paper, pour in the cake, and bake in 
a slow oven for at least four hours. 
Smaller proportions may be adopted. 

1487.— COENSTAECH CAKE. 

Half a pound of sugar, four ounces of 
butter, five eggs, one teaspoonful cream 
of tartar, half a teaspoonful of soda, 
half a pound of cornstarch, half a gill of 
sweet milk. 

1488.— SHORT CAKE. 

Three pounds of flour, half a pound of 
butter, half a pound of lard, a teaspoon- 
ful of soda, two of cream of tartar ; mix 
with cold milk. 

For Strawberry Cake, open these when 
first baked, take out some of the crumb, 
and fill the inside with ripe strawberries, 
sugared ; close and bake the cakes five 
minutes longer. 

1489.— SUGAE CAKE. 

Three pints of flour, a table-spoonful 
of butter, half a pound of sugar, \ one 
egg, half a teaspoonful of soda, a tea- 
spoonful of cream of tartar, milk enough 
to make a dough, roll it thin and cut in 
squares. 

1490.— EAILEOAD CAKE. 

A pint of flour, three eggs, a teaspoon- 
ful of cream of tartar, half a teaspoon- 
ful of soda, a table-spoonful of butter, a 
teaspoonful of sugar ; bake the batter in 
a square pan twenty minutes. 



480 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



1491.— JELLY CAKE. 



Bake sponge cake or cup cake in cir- 
cular pans, half an inch thick ; when 
cold, put pulp of fruit or marmalade be- 
tween them ; six or eight layers of each. 

1492.— LADY CAKE. 

One pound of flour, one of loaf sugar, 
half one of butter, the whites of twelve 
eggs, almonds pounded, rose-water. 

1493.— CHOCOLATE CAKE, 

Grate chocolate ; add whites of six 
eggs and loaf sugar ; drop it on buttered 
paper, and bake as macaroons. 

1494.— NOUEMAHAL CAKE. 

Cut four slices of sponge cake about 
an inch thick and of an oval shape, but 
each slice smaller than the others. 
Spread a thick layer of apricot jam upon 
the first and largest slice, and then lay 
the next sized slice upon it ; spread the 
second slice with apple marmalade, and 
cover with the third size, which is to be 
spread in like manner with strawberry 
jam, and covered with the smallest size. 
Press the top lightly with the hand, and 
with a sharp knife cut away the central 
part, 'so as to leave a wall about two 
inches and a half thick, which is to be 
trimmed outside. Mash up the part re- 
moved from the centre, with equal parts 
of white wine and brandy, suflHcient to 
flavor, and stir in some thick custard, 
then pour into the center of the cake. 
Whip the whites of two eggs into a stiff" 
froth, pour over the whole, heaping it 
well up in the centre, and shake sifted 
sugar thickly on, then place in a quick 
oven until the frosting is set. A few 
pieces of strawberry jam or any other 
preserve placed round the bottom of the 
dish, gives a finish to the whole. 

1495.-ICING FOE CAKES. 

Beat the whites of four eggs to a solid 



froth, add gradually three-quarters of a 
pound of refined sugar pounded and sift- 
ed ; mix in the juice of half a lemon ; 
beat it till very light and white. The 
cake should be cold. Place it before the 
fire, pour over it the icing, and smooth 
over the top and sides with a knife. It 
might be set to dry at the mouth of a 
cool oven. 

1496.— LEMON CAKES. 

Rub half a pound of butter into one 
pound of flour and a pound of powdered 
lump sugar, the rind and juice of one 
lemon, three eggs, leaving out the whites 
unless the butter be very hard. Mix all 
together, and drop on tins in small 
cakes. 

1497.— CINNAMON BISCUITS. 
Half a pound of dry flour, one pound 
of lump sugar, finely sifted ; one pound 
of butter, powdered cinnamon to judg- 
ment. The whole to be mixed with a 
glass of brandy, or rum, then rolled 
very thin, and baked in a quick oven. 

1498.— DIET BEEAD. ' 

To half a pound of sifted sugar put 
four eggs; beat them together for an 
hour ; then add a quarter of a pound of 
flour dried and sifted, with the juice of 
half a lemon and the grated rind of -j, 
whole one. Bake it in a slow oven. 

1499.— CUEEANT CAKE. 

Beat a pound of fresh butter to a 
cream ; take one pound and a quarter 
of sugar, and one and a quarter pounds of 
currants washed and picked, and beat up 
the whites and yolks of eight eggs ; put 
in the sugar by degrees, then a pound oi' 
flour and currants ; add a gill of brandy, 
some candied orange and citron ; beat the 
mixture till very light, and bake it in a 
pan. 

1500.— SEED CAKES. 

Beat one pound of butter to a cream, 



CAKES. 



481 



adding, gradually, a quarter of a pound 
of sifted sugar, beating both together. 
Have ready the yolks of eighteen eggs, 
and the whites of ten, beaten separately ; 
mix in the whites first and then the 
yolks, and beat the whole for ten min- 
utes ; add two grated nutmegs, one pound 
and a half of Hour, and mix them very 
gradually with ' the other ingredients. 
When the oven is ready, beat in three 
ounces of picked carraway-seed. To 
two pounds of flour add two ounces of 
butter rubbed in, half a pound of sugar, 
one ounce of carraway-seed, half an 
oun?e of ground coriander-seed, half a 
teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, and a 
table-spoonful of arrowroot ; mix the 
whole well together, and make a stiff" 
paste with warm milk ; cut into thin 
cakes, and prick over with a fork ; bake 
slowly. 

1501.— PITCAITHLY BANNOCK. 

Dry before the fire one pound fine 
flour ; then melt half a pound of butter ; 
then mix with the flour two ounces of 
almonds thinly sliced; two ounces of 
orange peel, two ounces of sugared carra- 
ways, two ounces pounded sugar, then 
pour on these ingredients the melted 
butter ; knead all together well ; put the 
bannock in a slow oven, and bake it an 
hour. 

1502.— TO MAKE BANBUET CAKES. 

Roll out the paste about half an inch 
thick, and cut it into pieces, then roll 
again till each piece becomes twice the 
size ; put some Banbury meat in the 
middle of one side, fold the other over it, 
and pinch it up into a somewhat oval 
shape, flatten it with your hand at the 
top, letting the seam be quite at the bot- 
tom, rub the tops over with the white of 
an egg laid on with a brush, and dust 
loaf-sugar over them. Bake in a moder- 
ate oven. The meat for this cake is made 
thus : — beat up a quarter of a pound of 



butter until it becomes in the state of 
cream, then mix with it half a pound of 
candied orange and lemon-peel cut fine, 
one pound of currants, a quarter of an 
ounce of ground cinnamon, and a quarter 
of an ounce of allspice ; mix all well to- 
gether, and keep in a jar, till wanted for 
use. • 

150a— PETS DE NOKNE. 

Put water or cream in a stewpan with 
sugar, a little salt, and flavoring of 
orange-flower water ; when near boiling 
shake flour in with one hand, and stir 
with the other, till the paste is thin and 
well done ; take it off the fire, and break 
an egg in ; turn and mix, adding a second 
egg ; add eggs till the paste is thick and 
soft, stirring and beating it. Have butter 
boiling hot in a frying pan, drop in the 
paste by spoonfuls, let each be the size of 
a walnut, take them out, and keep them 
hot till all are done ; sift sugar over them, 
or serve sweet sauce of wine, butter, 
sugar, and grated nutmeg. 

1504.— BISCUITS. 

Those of the common sort are made in 
various ways. For a large quantity beat 
up eight eggs during nearly half an hour, 
then put in one pound of white powder- 
ed sugar, with the grated peel of a lemon, 
and whisk that again for the same time, 
or until it appears well mixed ; after 
which make it into a batter with one 
pound of flour, and a little rose-water. 

Bake the dough in tins, or on papers, 
and either sugar them or put in carra- 
ways at your pleasure. 

Or : — One pound of flour, half a pound 
of loaf-sugar, and a quarter of a pound of 
butter ; rub all together ; wet it with 
one egg beaten up in half a teacupful of 
milk, and roll it out thin. 

1505.— GOLD AND SILVER CAKE 

Is made by using the whites of the eggs 



482 



THE PRACTICAL H0U8EKEEPEK. 



for the latter, and the yolks for the first. 
The other proportions like pound cake. 

1506.— FEANGIPANE 

Is a French paste, made with two or three 
eggs put into a saucepan with one table- 
spoonful of flour, moistened with a little 
milk, and placed on the fire for about 
ten minutes ; taking care to stir the ma- 
terials continually, to prevent them from 
sticking to the pan. The substance may 
either be used as a paste for tartlets, or 
eaten as cakes, if made with sugar and 
macaroons. 

1507.— LA GALETTE 

Is in great favor among the Parisians, 
who usually eat it with sweetmeats, but 
vary it in point of richness by the 
greater or less quantity of cream and 
butter employed in making it up. It is 
thus made : — 

Take one pound each of butter and 
flour, a little salt, and two eggs ; knead 
the whole together into a paste, roll it 
to not more than an inch in thickness, 
and make it the size of a dessert-plate. 
Then put it into the oven for a quarter 
of an hour ; take it out ; beat up two 
eggs with a little cream and some salt ; 
pour it over the cake, and return it to 
the oven to bake for another quarter of 
an hour ; or, if you please, ornament the 
back with candied citron. 

1503.— ISLE OF WIGHT CRACKNELS. 

Mix with a quart of flour half a nut- 
meg grated, the yolks of four eggs 
beaten, with four spoonfuls of rose-water, 
into a stiff paste, with cold water ; then 
roll in one pound of butter, and make 
them into a cracknel shape ; put them 
into a kettle of boiling water, and boil 
them till they swim ; then take them out 
and put them into cold water; when 
hardened, lay them out to dry, and bake 
them on tin plates. 



1509.— CRACKNELS. 

Half a pound of flour, half a pound of 
sugar, a quarter of a poimd of butter 
two table-spoonfuls of rose-water, a little 
salt and rice, and eggs well beaten. Mix 
together twenty minutes; roll and cut 
into shapes. Rub a baking sheet with 
butter, and when baked, .wash them with 
white of egg. 

1510.— FRENCH BREAD. 
Commence as for common bread, but 
use milk instead of water. When it is 
light, add two quarts warm milk, salt 
half a pound of butter, and one ounce 
sifted loaf sugar ; knead well and let it 
rise again. Make it into rolls ; put them 
in a warm place half an hour, then bake 
in a quick oven. 

1511.— KRINGLES. 

Beat well the yolks of eight and 
whites of two eggs, and mix with four 
ounces of butter just warmed, and with 
this knead one pound of flour and four 
ounces of sugar to a paste. Roll into 
thick biscuits ; prick them, and bake on 
tin plates. 

GINGERBREAD. 

This is amongst the most ancient 
species of cake known throughout Eng- 
land and the north of Europe. It is the 
delight of children ; in Holland it is the 
common accompaniment of the "schnaps," 
and in Ghent there are shops famous for 
it. The following are selected from 
amongst the numerous ways of making 
it in this country. 

1512.— SOFT GINGERBREAD (from a Lady ol 
New York). 

Three cups molasses, one of butter, 
one of milk, ginger, a table- spoonful of 
saleratus, and flour enough to make it 
the stiffness of pound cake. 

Another :■ — Half a pound of butter, a 



CAKES. 



483 



quart of molasses, eight eggs, four table- 
spoonfuls sifted ginger, two teaspoon- 
fuls saleratus, allspice, and flour enough 
to make it stiff as pound cake. 

, 1513.— HAED GINGEEBKEAD. 

Eub half a pound of butter into one 
pound of flour ; then rub in half a pound 
of sugar, two table-spoonfuls of ginger, 
and a spoonful of rose-water ; work it 
well ; roll out, and bake in flat pans in a 
moderate oven. It will take about half 
an hour to bake. This gingerbread will 
keep good some time. 

1514— GIN GEEBEEAD-NUT8. 

Mix half a pound of flour, the same 
quantity of butter and of brown sugar, 
with three ounces of ginger, a teaspoon- 
ful of carbonate of soda rubbed in the 
flour, with as much molasses as will make 
it into a paste. Roll it out thin, and 
bake it for about twenty minutes in a 
slow oven. 

1515.— PASSOVEE CAKES. 

Make a stiff" paste with biscuit-powder, 
milk, and water ; add a little butter, the 
yolk of an egg, and a little white sugar. 
Cut into pieces, mould with the hand, 
and bake in a brisk oven : they should 
not be too thin. 

1516.— SCOTCH SHOET-BEEAD. 

To four pounds of flour take two of 
butter, half a pound of moist sugar, 
quarter of a pound of citron, and the 
same of almonds, the latter blanched, 
and all cut small. Mix the sugar and 
fruit well with the flour, then work it up 
with the butter, cold, till it is smooth 
and compact, but it will take a long 
time ; divide into four or more pieces, 
and roll out each piece into an oblong 
cake, having previously floured the table 
well. Prick the top with a steel fork, 
strew some orange and citron cut thin, 



and some large caraway-comfits, press 
them in with the roller, then pinch round 
the edges, put the cakes in floured tins ; 
bake for twenty minutes. If the cake 
rise after the pressing of the finger, it is 
sufficiently done. 

Or: — One pound each of butter and 
sifted sugar, two pounds of flour, eight 
ounces of sweet and four ounces of bit- 
ter almonds, a small piece of cinnamon, 
all pounded, and a glass of brandy. 
Soften the butter before the fire, then 
rub in the flour, and make it into a paste ; 
roll it out half an inch thick, and bake it 
on a tin in a slow oven, as it should be 
of a pale color. 

1517.— POTATO CHEESECAKES. 

Boil six ounces of potatoes, and four 
of lemon-peel, beat the latter in a marble 
mortar with a quarter of a pound of 
sugar, then add the same- quantity of 
butter, melted in a little cream, and the 
potatoes beaten : mix well, and let it 
stand to cool ; put crust in patty-pans, 
rather more than half fill them, sift 
some sugar over, and bake half an hour 
in a quick oven. 

Tipsy Calce. — Put a sponge-cake into 
a deep glass dish, pour round it a glass 
of brandy and some raisin-wine, and let 
it soak it up ; then strew sifted sugar 
over it, pour a thick custard into the 
dish, and ornament the top with blanch- 
ed almonds split and put thick. 

151S.— DOUGHNUTS. 

Set a sponge with a pound of flour, 
milk and good yeast ; rub nearly half a 
pound of butter into another pound of 
flour, and add half a pound of sugar, 
with grated nutmeg and spice, and mix 
with it three beaten eggs ; mix it with 
the light sponge, and more milk if neces- 
sary, and set it to rise. When it is per- 
fectly light, roll out the dough on a 
pasteboard, cut it into slips, double and 



484 



THE PRACTICAL HOTJSEKEEPEE. 



twist them up, and fry them in boiling 
lard. 

For Crullers — Allow to the flour more 
butter and sugar, and six eggs, without 
yeast, and fry as before, making smaller 
cakes. 

1519.— BOSTON CREAM CAKES. 

Take half a pint of cream from a quart 
of milk, and boil it with vaniHa and cin- 
namon ; strain and mix it with the rest 
of the milk ; when cold, add the yolks 
of twelve eggs and a quarter of a 
pound of loaf-sugar, and bake the custard 
in a bain-marie; have ready a batter 
made of half a pound of flour and the 
same of butter, in a pint of milk, with 
eight eggs, and bake it in buttered deep 
pattj'-pans, not scolloped ; when brown- 
ed, open a slit in the side of each while 
hot, and put in with a spoon as much 
of the custard as it will hold ; close the 
sUt smoothly, and set the cakes away. 

1520.— SPANISH PUFFS. 

Boil three-quarters of a pint of milk 
with one ounce of butter, six ounces of 
flour, mixed well in the hot milk — flavor 
with vanilla. Drop about the size of a 
walnut, and lightly bake. When done, 
open gently at the side and fill with pre- 
serve. 

1521.— ALMACK. 

Plums, pears, and apples, each two 
pounds ; pare, core, and stew together — 
rub through a sieve. Add half a pound 
of moist sugar ; boil until it is quite 
stiff"; spread on dishes to dry. When 
set, cut in squares and put by for use. 

1522.— KISSES. 
Beat the whites of four eggs till they 
stand alone. Then beat in, gradually, 
a pound of finely-powdered sugar, a tea- 
spoonful at a time. Add eight drops of 
the essence of lemon, and beat the whole 
very hard. 



Lay a wet sheet of paper on the bot- 
tom of a square tin pan. Drop on it, at 
equal distance, small teaspoonfuls of stiff 
currant jelly. Put a little of the beaten 
egg and sugar at first, under the currant 
jelly. With a large spoon, pile some of 
the beaten white of egg and sugar, on 
each lump of jelly, so as to cover it en- 
tirely. Drop on the mixture as evenly 
as possible, so as to make the kisses of a 
round, smooth shape. 

Set them in a cool oven, and as soon 
as they are colored, they are done. Then 
take them out, and place the two bot- 
toms together. Lay them lightly on a 
sieve, and dry them in a cool oven, till 
the two bottoms stick fast together so as 
to form one ball or oval. 

1523.— MACAROONS. 

Blanch and skin half a pound of sweet 
almonds, dry them well in your screen, 
then put them into a mortar with a 
pound and a half of lump sugar, pound 
well together, and pass the whole through 
a wire sieve ; put it again into a mortar, 
with the whites of two eggs, mix well 
together with the pestle, then add the 
white of another egg, proceeding thus 
until you have used the whites of about 
eight eggs and made a softish paste, when 
lay them out at equal distances apart, 
upon wafer-paper, in pieces nearly the 
size of walnuts, place some strips of al- 
monds upon the top, sift sugar over, and 
bake in a slow oven of a yellowish brown 
color ; they are done when set quite firm 
through. 

1524.— RATAFIAS. 

Ratafias are made similar to the above, 
but deducting two ounces of sweet, and 
adding two ounces of bitter almonds; 
they are laid out in much smaller cakes 
upon common paper, and baked in a 
much warmer oven; when cold, they 
may be taken off the paper with the 
greatest ease. 



CAKES CHEESECAKES . 



485 



These cakes are very serviceable in 
making a great many second-course 
dishes. 

1525— RICE 0AKE9. 
Take eight yolks and four whites of 
eggs, and beat to a foam ; add six ounces 
of powdered sugar, and the peel of one 
lemon grated ; then stir in half a pound 
of ground rice, and beat all together for 
half an hour. Put it into a buttered 
tin, and bake twenty minutes. This 
cake is recommended as very easy of di- 
gestion. The foregoing cakes are made 
without butter, and therefore are not 
apt to prove injurious. 

1526.— BOLA D' AMOUR-LOVE CAKES. 

Take the yolks of eggs, as many as 
are required for the dish (about twelve), 
and beat them up in a pan with an equal 
weight of sugar, the same as sponge 
cake, using any kind of liquor or essence 
for flavoring. When the mixture is 
beaten up light and thick, have ready 
some clarified butter in a stewpan, made 
hot enough for frying. Pour the mix- 
ture into a funnel having a small bore or 
pipe, and let it run into the hot butter, 
turning the hand while it is running, so 
that it may be formed into threads all 
over the surface of the pan. In about 
two minutes it will be done, when it 
should be taken out with a skimmer, and 
be placed on a dish for serving, garnish- 
ing it with any kind of preserve, and 
serve cold. 

Another way is, to beat up the eggs 
with some liquor, and run it into some 
boiling syrup at the Moid. 

152T.— EXCELLENT CHEESECAKES, KNOWN 
AT RICHMOND AS "MAIDS OF HONOR." 

Make some milk lukewarm, then put 
a spoonful of rennet, stir it well through 
a'cheese-cloth to get rid of the whey ; 
then to half a pound of curd put six 
ounces of butter, four yolks of eggs, and 
31 



sugar and nutmeg to the taste. Mix all 
the ingredients well, line pattypans 
with a puff paste, fill them with the mix- 
ture, and bake in a quick oven. The 
cheesecakes may be flavored with lemon 
for a variety. 

1528.— CHEESECAKES. 

Take the curd of three quarts of milk, 
a pound of currants, twelve ounces of 
sugar, ^ a quarter of an ounce of cinna- 
mon, the same quantity of nutmeg, and 
the peel of a lemon chopped to a paste ; 
the yolks of eight and the whites of six 
eggs, a pint of scalded cream and a pint 
of brandy ; mix them all together, put 
a light thin puff'-paste into your patty- 
pans and half fill them. 

1529.— SOTER'S QUEEN VICTORIA'S CAKE. 

To three-quarters of a pound of flour, 
add half an ounce of yeast, mixed with 
warm water until forming a stiff" paste, 
and place it in a stewpan, and let it 
stand by the fire or oven until well risen, 
during which time the butter must be 
well worked until soft, adding a quarter 
of a pound of flour more and five eggs 
gradually, and beat them well together ; 
when done, if the leaven is well risen, 
add to it one and a half pounds of rai- 
sins, with a little salt and sugar ; let it 
stand in the mould for a short time, and 
bake it in a slow oven. 

1530.— ELETHERIAN PINE APPLE CAKE. 

Take three-quarters of a pound of pine 
apple, not over ripe, peel it ; place half a 
pound of white sugar in a pan, with half 
pint of water, boil till a thick syrup ; cut 
the pine in small dice of a quarter of an 
inch, and pour the syrup over; and, 
when nearly cold, add to it the dough, 
which has previously been mixed with 
three-quarters of a pound of butter and 
two eggs ; let it rise in a hoop as above, 
and bake in the same way : a glass of 
rum may be added. 



486 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



1581— BABA. 

Take three pounds of flour, one-qu.ar- 
ter of which set apart and mix into dough 
with a gill of good yeast and a little 
warm water; cover it c'ose in a stew- 
pan and set it by the fire to rise ; when 
you see the dough rise and nearly ready, 
form the other parts of the flour in a 
circle on the table, in which put half an 
o-unce of salt, one ounce of sugar, a half 
pound of butter and twelve egg^ and a 
table-spoon of saffron ; mix the butter 
and eggs well together before you put it 
to the flour ; when it is all mixed spread 
it out and put the dough to it and knead 
it well. When the yeast is nearly mixed 
in, add two pounds of raisins stoned, 
a few at a time,, have ready two moulds 
buttered, and put three parts full of dough 
I and set in a warm place to rise very 
! gently ; when raised to the top of the 
I mould bake in a hot oven ; a brick oven is 
best. 

t582.— CHEESECAKES, APPLE. 

Take twelve apples, pare, core, and 
boil in sufficient water to wash them ; 
beat them very smooth ; add six yolks of 
eggs, the juice of two lemons, some grated 
lemon peel, half a pound of fresh butter, 
beaten to a cream, and sweetened with 
powdered sugar ; beat in with the apples, 
bake in a puff crust, and serve open. 

1583.— CHEESECAKES, ALMOND. 

Take four ounces of blanched almonds, 
mixed with a few bitter, beat them with 
a spoonful of water, add four ounces of 
powdered sugar, a spoonful of cream, and 
the whites of two eggs well beaten ; mix 
them quickly, put into small pattypans, 
and bake for twenty minutes in a mod- 
isrately warm oven. 

1534— CHEESECAKES, BREAD 

Take a French roll, slice it very thin, 
pour over it some boiling cream, allow it 



to cool and then add six or eight eggs 
half a pound of butter melted, a spoonfu. 
of brandy, half a pound of currants, 
some nutmeg, and a little sugar ; put 
them in puff-paste, the same as other 
cheesecakes. 

1585.— CHEESECAKES, CITRON. 

Take a pint of cream, boil it, and when 
cold mix it with two eggs well beaten ; 
then boil them together, until they be- 
come a curd. Put in a few blanched al- 
monds beaten in a mortar with a httle 
orange-flower water, and some Naples 
biscuits and green citron chopped very 
small. Sweeten, and bake in tins. 

1536.— CHEESECAKES, LEMON. 

Take four ounces of sifted lump sugar 
and the same quantity of butter ; melt 
them slowly, add the yolks of two and 
the white of one egg, a sponge cake, 
some blanched almonds, the rind of three 
lemons shred fine, and the juice of one 
lemon and a half, and three spoonfuls of 
brandy ; mix all well together, then make 
a paste with eight ounces of flour, and 
six ounces of butter, mixing four ounces 
of it with the flour first, then wet it with 
six spoonfuls of water, and roll in the 
remainder of the butter ; put the ingre- 
dients to this paste, and bake it. 



CUSTAEDS, CREAMS, 
JELLIES, &c. 

Custard is always eaten cold, {y-i 
either poured over fruit tarts, or served 
up separately in custard-cups, in each of 
which a macaroon steeped in wine, and 
laid at the bottom, will be found a good 
addition. 

The flavoring may likewise be altered, 
according to taste, by using a different 
kind of essence, the name of which it 



CUSTARDS. 



48Y 



then acquires ; as of lemon, orange, ma- 
rashino vanilla, &c. It is almost needless 
to say that cream or a portion of it will 
make it richer than mere milk. 

The French mode of making it is, to 
measure the number of cups which are 
to be filled, and use nearly that quantity 
of milk or cream, simmering it upon the 
fire, until beginning to boil, with lemon- 
peel, bay-leaves, or almonds, then adding 
about half an ounce of powdered sugar 
to each cup ; then take the yolk of an 
egg to each small cup, beat them up with 
the milk, fill the cups, place in a hain- 
marie or vase of boiling water until the 
custard become firm. 

For hoiled custard : — Boil the milk 
with the flavoring till thick enough ; pour 
it hoiling hot over beaten yolks of eggs, 
eight to a quart ; sweeten to taste, stir 
till cold and smooth. 

1537.— AEEOWROOT CUSTARD. 

One pint of milk, one table-spoonful 
of arrowroot, one of sugar, boil the milk 
with a stick of cinnamon in it, wet the 
arrowroot with a little cold milk, add to 
it one egg well beaten, add the sugar, stir 
the whole into the boiling milk, flavor 
it with vanilla, wine, or rose when nearly 
cold. 

You may flavor custards with lemon- 
peel, vanilla, or any thing you choose, 
and make them as rich as you like. 

158S. -BLANC MANGE. 

Wet one ounce or four sheets of 
Cooper's Isinglass in cold water, boil 
one quart of milk with a stick of cinna- 
mon in it, drain the isinglass out of the 
water and stir it into the milk ; when dis- 
solved, strain it through a flannel bag, 
sweeten it, and when cold pour it into the 
moulds. 

1539.- CUSTARD CREAM OP CHOCOLATE. 
Scrape one-quarter of a pound of the 



best chocolate ; pour on it a teacupful of 
boiling water, and let it stand by the 
fire till it has dissolved. Beat eight eggs 
very light, omitting the whites of two. 
Stir them by degrees into a quart of 
cream or rich milk, alternately with the 
melted chocolate and three table-spoon- 
fuls of powdered white sugar. Put the 
mixture into cups and bake it ten min- 
utes. Send them to table cold, with 
whipped white of egg heaped on the top 
of each custard. 

1540.— COFFEE CUSTARD. 

This is made by putting a quart of 
milk on the fire, with about six ounces 
of white sugar. In another vessel beat 
up the yolks of ten eggs, and pour the 
milk gradually upon them. Roast your 
coffee (three or four ounces) till it is of 
a very light brown color, and gives out 
all its flavor ; break it in a mortar, slight- 
ly, and add it, while hot, to your hot 
custard. Strain through a jelly-bag, 
pour the cream into cups, and put them 
to cool. Every thing depends on the 
cofi'ee being used whilst hot, so as to 
catch the aroma which goes off as it 
cools. 

Or : — Pour half a pint of cold water 
on the same quantity of fresh ground 
coffee in a French coffee-pot, press it 
down and put on the lid. Stop the 
mouth of the spout, and when the water 
has filtered down, pour it off, and return 
it to the top to filter a second time. 
Have a custard made with eight eggs to a 
pint of milk, sweetened to taste. Stir in 
the coffee, put it in custard cups, and 
bake in a pan with water half to their 
tops. Send cold to table. 

1541 —CHAMPAGNE CREAM 

Is made by beating up the yolks of 
six eggs with as much powdered sugar 
as will make it quite stiff— so much so 
as nearly to make the spoon stand in it. 



488 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



Then pour on it very gradually — stirring 
it all the time — a bottle of sparkling 
champagne : grate on it a little nutmeg, 
and serve it to the ladies, who seldom 
refuse a second glass. 

A bottle of good cider or perry will be 
a tolerable substitute. 

1542.— LECHfi CR^MA. 

Beat up three eggs, leaving out two of 
the whites, and add to to them gradually 
one pint and a half of milk ; then mix 
very carefully four table-spoonfuls of fine 
wheat-flour, and two ounces of finely 
powdered loaf-sugar, with grated lemon- 
peel to give a flavor. Boil these ingre- 
dients over a slow fire, stirring constant- 
ly to prevent burning, until the flour is 
quite dissolved. Prepare a shallow dish 
with some ratafia cakes at the bottom, 
and when the " crema" is sufficiently 
boiled, pour it through a sieve upon the 
cakes.* 

1543.— ITALIAN CREAM. 

Whip together for nearly an hour a 
quart of very thick scalded cream, a 
quart of raw cream, the grated rind of 
four lemons and the sprained juice, with 
ten ounces of white powdered sugar ; 
then add half a pint of sweet wine, and 
continue to whisk it until it becomes 
quite solid. Lay a piece of muslin in a 
sieve, and lay the cream upon it with a 
spoon. In twenty hours turn it carefully 
out, but mind that it does not break. 
Garnish it with fruit-jelly or with 
flowers. 

Another. — Whip up three-quarters of 
a pint of very rich cream to a strong 
froth, with some finely scraped lemon- 
peel, a squeze of the juice, half a glass 

* Some finely powdered cinnamon should be 
dusted pretty thickly over it. This delicious dish 
is always served up cold. The receipt was obtained 
from the nuns of Santa Clara convent at Palmas, 
in the island of Grand Canary. 



of sweet wine, and sugar to make it 
pleasant, but not too sweet ; lay it on a 
sieve or in a form, and next day put it on 
a dish, and ornament it with very light 
puff'-paste biscuits, made in tin shapes 
the length of a finger, and about two 
thick, over which sugar may be strewed, 
or a little glazed with isinglass. Or you 
may use macaroons to line the edges of 
the dish. 

1544.— CLOUTED CPvEAM. 

Strain the milk as soon as it comes 
from the cow into wide pans, holding 
about six quarts each, so as to be about 
three inches deep, and let it remain for 
twenty-four hours ; then gentlj' place the 
pan upon a hot plate or slow charcoal 
fire, which must heat it very gently, for 
if it boils it is spoilt; as soon as the 
cream forms a ring in the middle, re- 
move a little with the finger, and if 
a few bubbles rise in the place where 
you do so, it is done, which will be in 
half to three quarters of an hour ; re- 
move it from the fire, and let it remain 
twenty-four hours ; then skim it, and 
throw a little sugar on the top. 

1545.— CHARLOTTE RUSSE. (Furnished for 
this work by Mr. Taylor, Proprietor of Taylor's 
splendid Establishment, Broadway, New York.) 

Dissolve one ounce of isinglass in half 
a pint of milk, and add to it when dis- 
solved the yolks of six eggs, and half a 
pound of white powdered sugar. 

Whip up a quart of sweet cream in one 
vessel, and the whites of six eggs in an- 
other. 

When the isinglass, &c., is nearly 
cold, stir it gradually into the cream. 
Then add the whites and stir up the 
whole together. Pour it in a mould, and 
set it on the ice for an hour. 

1546.— CHARLOTTE RUSSE. (Furnished by a 
Lady of New Tork.) 

Make a custard of four eggs, one pint of 



milk, and five table-spoonfuls of sugar ; 
boil a vanilla bean with the milk. Dis- 
solve half an ounce of isinglass in a tea- 
cupful of water, put a pint of cream in a 
tin pan, stand it over ice, and when the 
isinglass is cold, mix it with the cream 
and beat it to a thick froth ; pour the 
cooled custard in and beat it all well. 
Place lady-fingers or spongecake inside 
the form, pour in the mixture, and leave 
it on the ice to thicken. 

1547.— 8TKAWBEEEY CHAELOTTE. 

Line a plain round mould with ripe 
strawberries by burying the mould in 
ice to the rim, and dipping the straw- 
berries in calf's-foot jelly, first covering 
the bottom with them cut in halves, the 
cutside downwards, afterwards building 
them up the sides, the jelly (which must 
be cold, but not set) causing them to ad- 
here ; when finished fill it with the cream 
as directed for the charlotte russe, and 
when ready to serve dip the mould in 
warm water, and turn it out upon your 
dish. The cream must be very nearly 
set when you pour it in, or it would run 
between the strawberries, and produce a 
bad efiect. 

Slip. — Warm two quarts or more of 
new milk, then put in it a piece of ren- 
net that has been kept in wine, or suffi- 
cient of the liquor to curdle it. When a 
firm curd is formed, set it in a cool place. 
Serve with grated nutmeg over it, and 
with cream. 

1648.— EAST AND EXCELLENT EECEIPT 
FOE JELLY. 

(By a Lady of New Tork.) 

Seven bars isinglass dissolved in two 
quarts water. When cold, add the juice 
and rind of six lemons — the whites and 
•shells of six eggs, a pint and a half of 
wine, one and a quarter pounds sugar ; 
stir all well, boil it five minutes, and 
strain through a jelly-cloth. 



1549.— A GEEMAN TEIFLE. 

Put a pint of strawberries or any 
other fresh fruit in the bottom of a glass 
dish. Sugar the fruit, put over it a layer 
of macaroons ; and pour over it a cus- 
tard, made with a quart of fresh milk 
and the yolks of eight eggs beaten, 
sweetened to taste, and scalding hot. 
When cold, place on the top the whites 
of the eggs beaten to a froth with a little 
sugar, or cream whipped to a froth. 
The egg may be made ornamental by 
beating currant jelly with part of it, 
and putting it in alternate hills of white 
and pink, 

1550.— GOOSEBEEET OE APPLE TEIFLE. 

Scald a sufficient quantity of fruit, and 
pulp it through a sieve, add sugar agree- 
able to your taste, make a thick layer of 
this at the bottom of your dish ; mix a 
pint of milk, a pint of cream, and the 
yolks of two eggs, scald it over the fire, 
observing to stir it ; add a small quantity 
of sugar, and let it get cold. Then lay 
it over the apples or gooseberries with a 
spoon, and put on the whole a whip 
made the day before. 

If you use apples, add the rind of a 
lemon grated. 

1551.— SYLLABUB. 

Mix a quart of cream with half a pint 
of sherry wine, and sweeten it to taste, 
adding essence or grated rind of lemon, 
and, if desired, the juice of the fruit. 
Churn or beat the mixture to a thick 
froth, which skim oS* and put in a glass 
bowl, over slices of sponge cake. 

1552.— A FLOATING ISLAND. 

Take a pint of thick cream, sweeten 
with Jine sugar, grate in the peel of one 
lemon, and add a gill of sweet white 
wine ; whisk it well till you have raised 
a good froth ; then pour a pint of thick 
cream into a china dish, take a sponge 
cake, slice it thin, and lay it over the 



490 



THE PRACTICAL HOrSEKEEPER. 



cream as lightly as possible ; then a layer 
of clear calves' feet jelly, or currant 
j(3lly ; then whip up your cream, and lay 
on the froth as high as you can and what 
remains pour into the bottom of the dish. 
Garnish the rim with sweetmeats. 

Gr : — Beat the whites of twelve eggs 
with a little sugar and currant jelly — a 
teaspoonful to each egg ; whisk it light 
and lay it on a custard made with the 
yolks of the eggs and three pints milk. 

1553.— WAGNER"S ICE CEEAMS. (These re- 
ci-ipts are furnished by Mr. Wagner of New York, 
expressly for this worli.) 

Vanilla Ice Cream. — One quart cream, 
eight ounces sugar, crushed, half a va- 
nilla bean. Boil half the cream with the 
sugar and bean, then add the rest of the 
cream, and cool and strain it. 

Lemon Ice Cream. — One quart cream, 
eight ounces sugar, one lemon. Grate 
the lemon rind in the sugar ; this ex- 
tracts the oil ; then add the raw cream 
and strain and freeze very soon. Lemon 
cream sours and becomes rancid more 
quickly than any other. 

Strawberry Ice Cream. — One quart 
cream, nine ounces sugar, quarter of a 
pound fresh berries or more if desired. 
Wash the berries in the sugar, add the 
cream, and strain and freeze as soon as 
possible to prevent curdling. 




and a strong arm is preferable to all the 
machines ever invented. Mr. Wagner 
has at some expense tried the labor-sav- 
ing machines, but could not bring up the 
cream to his standard, and has now aban- 
doned them for his original mode of 
manufacture. 

A great variety of ice creams may be 
made with different kinds of fruit in the 
same manner. 

MocTc Cream may be made by mixing 
half a table-spoonful of flour with a pint of 
new milk, letting it simmer five minutes 
to take off the rawness of the flour; 
beat up the yolk of an egg, stir it into 
the milk while boiling and run it through 
a fine sieve. 




Johnston's Freezer. 
The freezing with the ordinary freezer 



Patent Ice Breaker. 

Rennet, to turn milk, may be pre- 
pared thus : Take out the stomach of a 
newly killed calf, cover it inside and out- 
side witli salt, after it is cleared of the 
curd. Drain it a few hours, then sew it 
up with two handfuls of salt in it, or 
stretch it on a stick well salted ; or keep 
it in the salt and soak a bit of it wdien 
wanted, in fresh water. 

1554.— BISCUIT GLAC:6. 

Rub some pieces of loaf-sugar on the 
rind of four lemons, powder it, and add 
half a pound more, moistened with the 
lemon-juice ; mix it with a quart of 
cream, and add six beaten eggs. Grate < 
so lie stale Naples biscuit or sponge 
cakes, and stir them in till a thick 
smooth batter is formed. Scald it in a 



porcelain stewpan ; put it in a freezer 
and freeze it. 

1555.— ALMOND CEEAM ICE. 

Take six ounces of bitter almonds, 
(sweet ones will not do,) blanch them, 
and pound them in a mortar, adding by- 
degrees, a little rose-water. Boil them 
gently in a pint of cream till you find 
that it is highly flavored with them. 
Then pour the cream into a bowl, stir in 
half a pound of powdered loaf-sugar, 
cover it, and set it away to cool gradu- 
ally. When it is cold, strain it, and then 
stir it gradually and hard into three 
pints of cream. Put it into the freezer, 
and proceed as directed. Freeze it twice. 
It will be found very fine. 

Send round always with ice cream, 
sponge cake : afterwards wine and cor- 
dials, or liquors, as they are now gene- 
rally called. 

1556.— "WATEE ICES. 

Are made with the juice of lemon, 
currant, or raspberry, or any other sort 
of fruit, being gained by squeezing, 
sweetened, and mixed with water. Rub 
some fine sugar on lemon qr orange, to 
give the color and flavor, then squeeze 
the juice of either on its peel ; add water 
and sugar to make a fine sherbet, and 
strain it before it be put into the icepot. 
If orange, the greater proportion should 
be of the juice. 

1557.— DEVONSHIRE JUNKET. 

Turn warm milk with rennet ; add 
scalded cream, sugar, and cinnamon, hang 
to drain in a net. 

Country Syllabub is made by milking 
from the cow into a bowl, with wine, 
sugar, and flavoring. 

1558.— EICE FLUMMERY. 

Boil with a pint of new milk a bit of 
lemon-peel and cinnamon; mix with a 
little cold mUk as much rice-flour as 



will make the whole of a good consist- 
ence ; sweeten, and add a spoonful of 
peach-water or a bitter almond beaten ; 
boil it, taking care it does not burn ; pour 
it into a shape or pint basin, taking out 
the spice. When cold, turn the flum- 
mery into a dish, and serve with cream, 
milk, or custard, round. 

As to the chemical compounds^ adver- 
tised for the making of jellies, custards, 
and blanc mange, they are worthless in 
comparison with the animal substance of 
meat, eggs, and milk, of which such deli- 
cacies ought to be formed ; they are not 
cheaper nor so nutritive, neither do we 
know of what they are composed. 

1559.-CALF'S-FOOT JELLY. 

It is a complaint amongst even experi- 
enced housekeepers that they cannot 
feel a certainty of having jelly clear; 
but by strictly attending to the following 
method for making calf's-foot jelly, they 
can scarcely fail to have it beautifully 
bright. 

Feet for all jellies are boiled so long 
by the people who sell them that they 
are less nutritious : they should be pro- 
cured from the butcher and only scalded 
to take off the hair. The liquor will 
require greater care in removing the fat ; 
but the jelly will be far stronger. A 
little isinglass, half an ounce to a quart 
of stock, may be used to secure the firm- 
ness, particularly in summer. In peel- 




Felt Jelly Bag. 

ing lemons, care should be taken not to 
cut below the color, as by so doing a 
great deal of the flavor of the essential 
oil is lost, and the white part gives a 



492 



THE PK ACTIO AL HOUSEKEEPER. 



disagreeable flavor. The stock should 
be measured when set to get cold, as the 
exact quantit}^ cannot be measured when 
it is set. 

Jelly is equally good made of cow- 
heels nicely cleaned ; they bear a less 
price than those of calves, and make a 
stronger jelly. 

To mchke Jelly. — Boil two feet in two 
quarts and a pint of water till the 
feet are broken and the water half 
wasted ; strain it, and the following day 
take off the fat, and remove the jelly 
from the sediment ; then put it into a 
saucepan, with a laurel-leaf, twenty cori- 
ander-seeds, the peel of two lemons, 
sugar to palate, half a pint of sherry, 
and a wine-glass of brandy. When the 
flavor is rich, put to it the whites of five 
eggs well beaten, and their shells broken. 
The ingredients should be cold when 
mixed together, to ensure the jelly being 
clear. Set the saucepan on the fire, but 
do not stir the jelly after it gets hot. 
Let it boil twenty minutes after it rises 
to a head ; then pour it through a flannel 
jelly-bag, first dipping the bag in hot 
water to prevent waste, and squeezing 
it quite dry. Run the jelly through and 
through until clear; then put it into 
glasses or moulds. 

The following mode will greatly facili- 
tate the clearing of jelly : 

When the mixture has boiled twenty 
minutes, throw in a teacupful of cold 
water ; let it boil five minutes longer ; 
then take the saucepan off" the fire, cov- 
ered close, and let it stand half an hour ; 
after which it will be so clear as to need 
only once running through the bag, and 
much waste will be saved. 

Or : — Boil four quarts of water, with 
three calf's-feet, or two cow-heels, that 
have been only scalded, till half wasted : 
take the jelly from the fat and sediment; 
mix with it the juice of a large orange 
and twelve lemons, the peels of three 



lemons, the whites and shells of twelve 
eggs, white sug-ar to taste, a pint of wine, 
one ounce of coriander-seeds, two bay- 
leaves, a bit of cinnamon, and six cloves, 
all bruised, after having previously mixed 
them cold. The jelly should boil fif- 
teen minutes without stirring ; then clear 
it through a flannel bag. While running 
take a little jelly, and mix with a teacup- 
ful of water in which a bit of beet-root 
has been boiled, and run it through the 
bag when all the rest is run out ; this is 
to garnish the other jellj^, being cooled 
on a plate : but this is a matter of choice. 
This jelly has a very fine high color and 
flavor. 

Cheap Calfs-foot Jelly. — Take one 
box of Cox's sparkling gelatine and pour 
on a pint of cold water — let it stand ten 
minutes, then add a pint of boiling 
water — one pint of wine — half a pound 
of sugar — the juice and rind of two 
lemons — strain it through a napkin into 
a pitcher, then turn it into the moulds* 
Boil in the water a stick of cinnamon, 
and the lemon-peels. 

1560.— GOOSEBEERT-FOOL. 

Put the fruit into a stone jar, with 
white sugar ; set the jar on a stove, or 
in a saucepan of water over the fire ; if 
the former, a large spoonful of water 
should be added to the fruit. When it 
is done enough to pulp, press it through 
a colander ; have ready a teacupful of 
new milk and the same quantity of raw 
cream boiled together, and left to be cold ; 
then sweeten pretty well with fine sugar, 
and mix the pulp by degrees with it. 

For Orange-fool. — Mix the juice of 
three oranges, three eggs well beaten a 
pint of cream, a little nutmeg and cinna- 
mon, and sweeten to your taste. Set the 
whole over a slow fire, and stir it till it 
becomes as thick as good melted butter, 
but it must not be boiled ; then pour it 
into a dish for eating cold. 



For Apple-fool. — Stew apples as di- 
rected for gooseberries, and then peel and 
pulp them. Prepare the milk, &c., and 
mix as before. 

1561.— TO MAKE AN ALMOND POSSET. 

Grate the crumb of a loaf very fine, 
pour a pint of boiling milk upon it ; let 
it stand two or three hours ; then beat 
it exceedingly well ; add to it a quart of 
good cream, and four ounces of almonds, 
blanched and beaten as fine as possible, 
with rose water. Mix them all well to- 
gether, set them over a very slow fire, 
and boil them a quarter of an hour: 
then set it to cool, and beat the yolks of 
four eggs, and mix them with your 
cream. When it is cold, sweeten it to 
your taste ; then stir it over a slow fire, 
till it grows prett}^ thick, but do not let 
it boil, or it will curdle ; then pour it 
into a china bowl. When you send it to 
table, put in thiee macaroons to swim on 
the top. 

1562.— TATLOK'S PLUM PUDDING GLACfi. 
(Furnished for this work by Mr. Taylor of New 
York.) 

One quarter of a pound each of raisins, 
currants and citron, one quarter of a 
pound of chocolate, all boiled together in 
a pint of Madeira wine ; mix it when cold 
with ice cream, so as to make sulBcient 
for an ordinary sized pudding. 

1563.— TO CLARIFY ISINGLASS. 

Take two ounces of isinglass, pour on 
it a pint of spring water which has been 
mixed with a teaspoonful of beaten white 
of egg, and a table-spoonful of lemon- 
juice. Stir them thoroughly together, 
and let them heat slowly, taking care 
the isinglass does not stick to the bottom 
of the pan ; simmer a f^w minutes, clear 
off the scum till no more appears ; strain 
it through muslin, and set it by for use : 
it will be transparent, and may be warm- 
ed and mixed with the clear juice of any 
kind of fruit already sweetened, or with 



syrup in jellies, flavored with liqueur. 
As a portion of the isinglass is taken up 
by the white of egg, one quarter to eacii 
ounce should be allowed for this. The 
finest sort of isinglass, which should be 
white and without any smell, does not 
require to be clarified, excepting for clear 
jellies ; for all other purposes it is 
enough to dissolve and skim it, and to pass 
it through a strainer. A great variety 
of excellent jellies may be made with 
clarified isinglass and the juice or syrup 
of almost any kind of fresh fruit, the 
color of which is best preserved by mash- 
ing it lightly and strewing pounded sugar 
over it, letting it stand three or four 
hours for the juice to drain off; pour a 
little water over, and use the juice with- 
out boiling. 

1564.— FROZEN PUDDING. (Furnished for this 
■work by Mr. Sneckner, whose splendid Con- 
fectionery Establishment is in Union Square, 
'New York.) 

Cut up about half a pound of preserved 
fruits — such as peaches, plums, citron, 
raisins, and currants — add half a pound 
of Baker's chocolate, and a pint of best 
Madeira wine ; simmer on the fire about 
fifteen minutes, and when perfectly cold 
add about one quart of vanilla ice cream. 
Freeze it in a two-quart mould, and for 
the sauce whip half a pint of sweet 
cream flavored with vanilla. 

1565.— MERINGUES. 

Pound and sift one pound of lump 
sugar, whisk the whites of twelve eggs 
very stiff, throw the sugar lightly over, 
and with a wooden spoon stir gently, 
perfectly mixing the sugar, then with a 
table or dessert-spoon lay them out 
upon white paper in the shape of eggs, 
sift powdered sugar thickly over, let them 
remain ten minutes, then shake off the 
superfluous sugar, place upon boards 
which you have wetted, and put them 
in a slow oven, just hot enough to cause 
them to be light and slightly tinged ; 
when the outside becomes quite crisp. 



494 



THE PRACTICAL H0U8EKEEPEK. 



take off the papers, by turning them 
topsy-turvy and hfting the papers from 
them ; dip your spoon into hot water, 
and with it clear out the best part of 
the interior, dust them with powdered 
sugar, lay them upon a baking-sheet, and 
put into the screen to dry ; they may be 
made several days before they are re- 
quired, if put away in a dry place ; to 
serve, fill them with whipped cream, 
flavored either with vanilla or orange- 
flower (but do not make it too sweet), 
stick two together, dress in pyramid upon 
a napkin, and serve. Should they happen 
to stick to the papers, moisten the papers 
with a paste-brush and water underneath ; 
they will come away easier. 

15G6.— MERINGUES A LA CEi;ME. (Furnished 
by Mr. Delmonico for this work.) 

Beat to a froth the whites of six eggs, 
to this add three ounces of finely powder- 
ed sugar, and mix up well. Then lay 
sheets of paper upon tin or other plates, 
place some spoonfuls of the mixture at 
intervals of half an inch, and powder 
them with fine sugar. Cook them at a 
very gentle heat, and, when done, place 
them in a warm place, in order to keep 
them dry. You may dress them with 
whipped cream or jelly, according to your 
taste. 

156T.— NOUGAT. 
Cut in dice or in fillets a pound of 
blanched sweet almonds, and mix with 
them eight or six bitter almonds. When 
they are cut equally, dry them in the 
oven, but keep them white ; take three 
or four spoonfuls of superfine pounded 
sugar, put it over a slow fire in a pre- 
serving pan ; when the sugar is melted 
without having used any water, throw 
the almonds in, but take care that they 
are quite dry. Stir the sugar with a 
clean wooden skewer. If you hear a 
noise when you throw them into the 
sugar, it is a sign that they are dry 
enough. Rub a mould slightly over in- 



side with oil or butter, and lay some al- 
monds in beds as thinly as possible ; 
take an oiled lemon to press the almonds 
with : but be quick, otherwise the almonds 
will get cool, and then they cannot be 
worked so thin. The nougat requires to 
be light, to be made to perfection. Some- 
times you may make the nougat in a 
mould the form of a vase, sometimes in 
small custard-moulds, according to your 
choice ; it is always the same thing, but 
you may cut the almonds of different 
shapes. 

Sometimes make a pound of almonds 
into nougat, oil a baking-dish, and spread 
it over it, oil the rolling-pin, and flatten 
the nougat with it ; if it will spread 
easy, put it in the oven again to make it 
soft ; then cut it into small long squares, 
and keep it in a very dry place, to pre- 
vent it sticking to the fingers. The 
nougat is in general made too sweet, and 
it is an article that belongs to the con- 
fectionery department. 



COFFEE, TEA, AND 
CHOCOLATE. 

1568.— COFFEE. 

There are several ways of making 
coffee ; and every housewife generally 
has her favorite mode. The french make 
excellent coffee without the aid of eggs, 
isinglass, or any foreign article to settle 
it. It consists of a sort of tin coffee-pot, 
with two strainers. You remove the 
first strainer, and pour some boiling water 
into the coffee-pot through the second 
strainer. Empty out the water, and put 
in a sufficient quantity of coffee for the 
family over the under strainer and press 
it flat with a little tin machine (which 
comes with the apparatus). Put in the 
other strainer, and pour in the hot water. 
The coffee will drain through in a few 
moments. 



COFFEE. 



495 



PAEKER'S PATENT COFPEE-MAKER. 




Coffee Canister. 

Another mode of mahing Coffee. — Take 
fresh roasted coffee, allow two table- 
spoonfuls for each person, grind it just 
before making, put it in a basin and break 
into it an egg, yolk, white, shell, and all. 
Mix it up with the spoon to the consist- 
ence of mortar, put warm, not boiling 
water, in the coffee pot ; let it boil up 
and break three times ; then stand a few 
minutes and it will be as clear as amber, 
and the egg will give it a rich taste. 

Codfish skin, scraped, washed, and 
dried, and cut in pieces, an inch square, 
may be used to settle off, or isinglass. 
You may add to a pint of coffee a pint 
of boiling milk, and heat both together 
before serving. 




Sugar Bos. 

1569.— COFFEE, TO EOAST. 

Coffee should never be roasted but 
when you are going to use it, and then 
it should be watched with the greatest 
care, and made of a gold color ; mind 
and do not burn it, for a few grains burnt 
would communicate a bitter taste to the 
whole ; it is the best way to roast it in 
a roaster over a charcoal fire, which turns 
with the hand, as by that means it will 
not be forgotten. 




By this machine, the extract of coffee 
is prepared in a very easy and expedi- 
tious manner. When the extract is 
made, it may be diluted with boiling 
water to suit the palate ; or hot milk 
may be used instead of water, making 
cafe au lait. 

Figure 1 represents the external ap- 
pearance of the apparatus, and figure 2 
is a section to show its construction and 
mode of action, a a is a box of metal to 
hold the coffee, having its bottom and 
top lid perforated with numerous small 
holes. From the lower part of the box 
proceeds a funnel, that reaches nearly to 
the bottom of an outside vessel or cylin- 
der of metal, e e, which is divided into 
two parts interiorly by a partition, 5 6, 
and on the middle of this partition is 
fixed a tube, into which the neck of the 
funnel is put, and on which the box with 
the coffee rests. The exterior vessel is 
covered with a convex lid, d. The whole 
is placed on a stand, in which is a spirit- 
lamp, f having a sliding tube, gr, so ar- 
ranged that the heat can be increased or 
diminished at pleasure. 



496 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



Having taken out the box, with its 
funnels, it is filled with coffee, and boil- 
ing water is poured down the tube in 
the interior ; this will pass into the di- 
vision at the lower part, e e ; then the 
box with the coffee is to be replaced, and 
the lamp lighted. The steam which is 
formed forces the water into e e to rise 
through the tube, and passes upward 
through the perforated bottom of the 
box into the coffee, which is seen rising 
as a dark fluid through the perforated 




Figure 2. 

lid of a a, and flowing over into the up- 
per division, I b. The passage of the 
water should be permitted to continue 
till it becomes pale-colored, and has con- 
sequently extracted all the goodness of 
the coffee, when the lamp should be ex- 
tinguished, and the lid put on. The ex- 
tract is then drawn off by means of the 
faucet. 

After making the extract, it is best 
not to drain off the liquid remaining 
within the rim of the cover, but to let 
it return into the boiler, which it will do 
as soon as the lamp is extinguished. — 
Thus, any sediment will return with it. 

The filling of the box is best done by 



piling up the ground coffee in the centre, 
and then striking it off with a knife, as 
is done with corn in a bushel-measure. 
The time for making the extract of coffee, 
where hot water is used, should never 
exceed five minutes. If it takes longer, 
it can arise only from the coffee being 
ground too finely ; and this not only in- 
creases the expenditure of spirits of wine 
and of time, but likewise injures the 
quality of the extract. The remedy is, 
to grind the coffee coarser and coarser, 
until the operation, after the water in 
the boiler boils, lasts only three minutes. 
The extract of coffee prepared by this 
apparatus contains all the aroma and 
other fine qualities of the coffee. 




TEA. 

Tastes differ regarding the flavor of 
various sorts of tea: some preferring all 
black ; others, all green ; and many, a 
mixture of both in different quantities ; 
though most persons — when tot fearful 




Tea Canister. 

of their nerves — agree that fine Hyson 
is the best. A good mixture, in point of 



CHOCOLATE^ 



497 



flavor, we know to be — two-fifths black, 
two fifths green, and one-fifth gunpow- 
der : all being, of course, of superior 
quality. 

Presuming all ladies to be intimately 
acquainted with the mode of making tea, 
yet to some, a few hints on the subject 
may not perhaps be found objectionable. 

Boiling water should alone be used. 

Metal tea-pots in preference to earth- 
enware. They retain heat better. 

Silver is better than either. 




Water Urn. 

A spoonful of tea for each person. 
Heat the tea-pot first with some boiling 
water, then pour that into the tea-cups 
to warm them ; put in your tea., and 
pour enough water upon the tea to cover 
it; let it stand three or four minutes, 
then nearly fill the tea-pot with water ; 
let it stand a few minutes, and pour out. 

CHOCOLATE, 

If made thin, is not worth drinking ; 
and that which is commonly sold is a 
compound of flour, or some farinaceous 
substance, and coarse sugar, with a very 
moderate quantity of real cocoa, and that 
of the most inferior quality, colored with 
Venetian red and brown ochre. 

Chocolate forms the common breakfast 
throughout Spain, and is there made by 
merely chipping a portion of the cake 
into which it is formed from the cocoa. 



leavmg the chips in water for a whole 
night to soften. It may then be slowly 
warmed, along with either water or 
milk, working it all the time with the 
mill, which is a small movable pole 
passed through the lid of a chocolate- 
pot, and furnished with a headpiece, in 
order to mix the chocolate equally, by 
turning the mill rapidly between the 
hands and without intermission, thus to 
prevent it from becoming clotty ; care, 
however, should be taken not to let it 
boil ; for, in that case, the vegetable oil 
which is contained in the nut will be ex- 
tracted from it and appear on the sur- 
face. The flavor is better retained by 
making it in water than milk. 

It is always made very thick, so that 
a small spoon will nearly stand upright 
in it, and nothing eaten with it but a 
rusk, or dry toast : after which there is 
usually taken a draught of cold spring 
water. 

The usual mode of making it here is, 
to boil a pint of water and a pint of milk 
in the pot, put to it a part of a cake of 
chocolate cut into very small slices, mill 
it off the fire till quite melted, then put 
it on a gentle fire till it nearly boils, 
milling it all the time. Sweeten to 
taste. 

15T0.— COCOA. 

An excellent breakfast beverage may 
be made by simply pounding the nut — 
which is the substance of chocolate — and 
boiling it in the same manner in either 
water or milk. 

Cocoa Shells or Nibs, are the thin 
coverings of the cocoa kernel, and can 
only be had at some chocolate manufac- 
tory, where they can be bought at a very 
low price, and form a light food for an 
invalid, when taken warm. 

Soak them in water during the whole 
night, and then boil them in the same water 
until it is reduced to half the quantity : 



498 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



they should boil two hours, and should 
then be mixed up with milk. 

1571.— CHOCOLATE DROPS. 
Take one pound and a half of choco- 
late, put it on a pewter plate and put it 
in the oven just to warm the chocolate, 
then put it into a copper stewpan with 
three-quarters of a pound of powdered 
supar ; mix it well over the fire, take it 
off. and roll it in pieces the size of small 
marbles, put them on white paper, and 
when they are all on, take the sheets of 
paper by each corner and lift it up and 
down, so that the paper may touch the 
table each time, and by that means you 
will see the drops come quite fat, about 
the size of a sixpence ; put some sugar 
nonpareils over them, and cover all that 
are on the paper, then shake them off, 
and you will see all the chocolate drops 
are covered with the sugar nonpareils ; 
let them stand till cold and they will 
come off well, and then put them in a 
box prepared. 

1572.— TEA CREAM. 
Infuse an ounce of the best green tea 
in half a pint of boiling milk, simmer it 
five minutes, then strain it through a 
tammy, pressing the leaves well ; boil a 
pint of rich cream, add to it the yolks 
of four eggs beaten, and sufficient quan- 
tity of clarified sugar ; pour this whilst 
hot to the milk, stir them together well, 
put in as much clarified isinglass as will 
set it, and pour the cream into the mould 
or glasses ; place them on ice ; when per- 
fectly cold, turn it out of the mould or 
serve in the glasses. 



PEESERVES, &c. 



Preserves should be kept carefully 
from the air, and in a very dry place. 
Unless they have a very small propor- 



tion of sugar, a warm one does not hurt ; 
but when not properly boiled, heat makes 
them ferment, and damp causes them to 
grow mouldy. They should be looked 
at two or three times in the first two 
months, that they may be gently boiled 
again if not likely to keep. Paste the 
edge of the outer paper, as it keeps out 
the air better than a string ; put writing- 
paper over the fruit. 

Dried sweetmeats, cakes, &c., should 
be kept in tin boxes, between layers of 
white paper, in a very dry but not hot 
room. 

All fruits for preserving should be 
gathered in dry weather ; but as this is 
not always practicable, much incon- 
venience may be obviated by boiling the 
fruit for jellies and jams long before the 
sugar is added. By so doing, the watery 
particles will evaporate, and the preserve 
will be better flavored, by the sugar not 
being too long on the fire. 

Pans of copper or bell-metal are the 
proper utensils for preserving fruit : when 
used, they must be scoured bright with 
sand. Tinned pans turn and destroy the 
color of the fruit that is put into them. 

1573.— TO PRESERVE WATERMELON RIND. 

Pare off the outer skin and cut the 
rind into shapes : green them by simmer- 
ing with vine leaves and a little alum, 
and allow a pound and a quarter of sugar 
to each pound. Make the syrup and clarify 
it with white of e^g, and simmer the 
melon rind till done through and trans- 
parent. Boil down the syrup afterwards, 
and pour it over the preserves. 

Chips of pumpkin or muskmelon rind, 
cut thin, are often made into preserves, 
— adding the juice and grated rind of 
lemons, which much improves the syrup. 

Citrons may be preserved in the same 
manner, first paring off the outer skin, 
and cutting them into quarters. Also 
green limes 



PRESERVES. 



499 



1574.— APPLES. 

Weigh equal quantities of good brown 
sugar and of apples ; peel and core them. 
Boil the sugar, allowing to every three 
pounds a pint of water ; skim it well, and 
boil it pretty thick ; then add the apples, 
the peel of one or two lemons, and two 
or three pieces of white ginger ; boil till 
the apples look clear and yellow. This 
preserve will keep for years. 

1575.— PINE-APPLES. 

Take those that are ripe, and perfectly 
fresh — pare off the rind, and cut the 
apples in slices an inch thick. Powder 
the same weight of white sugar as you 
have pine apples — lay the pine-apples in 
a deep dish, and sprinkle part of the 
powdered sugar between each layer of 
apples. Reserve about half of the sugar. 
Let the apples remain till the succeeding 
day— then turn the syrup from them, 
and mix it with the reserved sugar, and 
half a pint of water, for three or four 
pounds of pine apple. Boil the syrup, 
take it from the fire, and when cool, put 
in the apples, simmer them gently till 
tender, let them remain in a deep dish 
for several days ; they should be covered 
up tight, and kept in a cool place. When- 
ever there is any appearance of fermen- 
tation, turn the syrup from them, scald 
it, and turn it back hot upon the pine- 
apples. Keep them in glass or china 
jars, covered tight, and in a cool place. 

1676.— TAIT PINE-APPLE. 

To fourteen pounds of^ grated pine- 
apple add half an ounce of grated alum, 
and mix thoroughly. Boil seven pounds 
white sugar in as little water as possible, 
skimming it until perfectly clear. Pour 
the boiling sugar over the fruit, and put 
it into empty champagne bottles ; stand 
the bottles in boiling water till the water 
begins to cool ; then cork and seal them 
closely. 



1577.— CKAB-APPLES 

Make a syrup, allowing the same 
weight of sugar as apples. Let it cool, 
then put in the apples, a few at once, so 
that they will not crowd, and break to 
pieces. Boil them till they begin to 
break, then take them out of the kettle. 
Boil the syrup in the course of three or 
four days, and turn it while hot upon 
the apples. This continue to do at in- 
tervals of two or three days, till the 
apples appear to be thoroughly preserved. 

1578 —GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING 
SWEETMEATS AND JELLIES. 

In preparing sugar for sweetmeats, let 
it be entirely dissolved before you put it 
on the fire. If you dissolve it in water, 
allow about half a pint of water to a 
pound of sugar. If you boil the sugar 
before you add the fruit to it, it will be 
improved in clearness by passing it 
through a flannel bag. Skim off the 
brown scum all the time it is boiling. If 
sweetmeats are boiled too long, they lose 
their flavor and become of a dark color. 
If boiled too short a time they will not 
keep well. You ma}^ ascertain when 
jelly is done, by dropping a small spoon- 
ful into a glass of water. If it spreads 
and mixes with the water, it requires 
more boiling. If it sinks in a lump to 
the bottom, it is sufficiently done. This 
trial must be made after the jelly is cold. 
Raspberry jelly requires more boiling 
than any other sort. Black currant 
jelly less. Keep your sweetmeats in 
glass jars. 

1579. -TO PRESERVE QUINCES. 

Ripe quinces pare and cut in slices an 
inch thick — take out the cores carefully, 
so as to have the slices in the form of a 
ring. Allow a pound of white sugar for 
each pound — dissolve it in cold water, 
having a quart of the latter to a pound 
of sugar, then put in the sliced quinces. 



500 



THE PRACTICAL H0U8EKEEPEK. 



and let them soak in it ten or twelve 
hours. Put them in a preserving kettle, 
and put it on a moderate fire — cover them 
over, and let the quinces boil gentl}' — 
there should be more than enough syrup 
to cover the quinces. When a broom 
feplinter will go through them easily, 
take them from the fire, and turn them 
out. In the course of a week turn the 
sjTup from them, and boil it down, so 
that there will be just enough to cover 
the fruit. When not very ripe, pare and 
cut the quinces either in rings or quar- 
ters, take out the cores, and boil the 
quinces in fair water, till they begin to 
grow tender — take them up, and strain 
the water in which they are boiled — put 
in either brown or white sugar — add a 
little cold water. When lukewarm, put 
in the whites of eggs and clarify it — let 
it cool, then put in the quinces, and boil 
them slowly for half an hour. Keep 
them covered over while boiling, if you 
wish to have them of a light color. Turn 
them out into pots as soon as preserved, 
and set them away in a cool place. Look 
at them in the course of a week to see if 
they have fermented — if so, turn the 
syrup from them, boil it. and turn it 
back while hot. The parings and cores 
of the quinces can be used for marmal- 
ade, with a few whole ones. Some people 
prefer to preserve the quinces with the 
cores in, but the syrup will not look 
clear. The following is a cheap method 
of preserving quinces, and answers very 
well for common use : Pare, halve, and 
take out the cores of the quinces, and 
boil the parings in new cider till soft. 
■ Strain the cider, and for five pounds of 
quinces put in a pound of brown sugar, 
a quart of molasses, the beaten white of 
an egg — clarify it, then put in the quinces. 
There should be rather more than enough 
cider to cover the quinces, as it wastes a 
good deal while the quinces are boiling. 
The peel of an orange cut in small pieces, 



and boiled with them, gives the quinoes 
a fine flavor. 

Quince Marmalade. — Gather the fruit 
when fully ripe, and of a fine yellow ; 
pare, quarter, and core it. Put the 
quinces into a saucepan with a little 
water, set them on the fire until they are 
quite soft ; then take them out, and lay 
them on a sieve to drain ; rub them 
through, and put to each pound of the 
strained quinces a pound of brown sugar. 
Set it on a few coals, and let it stew 
slowly, stirring it constantly. When it 
has stewed an hour, take a little of it 
out, let it get cold — if it then cuts 
smooth, it is sufficiently stewed. 

Quince Jelly. — Halve the quinces, and 
take out the cores. Boil the quinces till 
very soft in clear water, mash them, and 
let them drain through a flannel bag, 
without squeezing them. Put to the 
quince liquor, when drained through the 
bag, white sugar in the proportion of a 
pound to a pint of liquor. Add the 
whites of eggs, and clarify it. When 
clear, boil it on a moderate fire till it 
becomes a thick jelly. Fill glasses with 
the jelly, and cover them tight. The 
quince pulp that remains in the jelly-bag 
can be made into marmalade. 

1580.— TO PRESERVE PEACHES, APRICOTS, 
NECTARINES, AND PLUMS. 

September is the best month for 
peaches, as they are then harder and 
larger. Weigh the peaches, put them 
into a preserving-pan full of cold water, 
with a slice or two of lemon ; set them 
on a slow fine, have ready a sieve and 
a napkin, and be careful not to do them 
too much. 

Some of the peaches wUl be ready 
sooner than others ; when they begin to 
be soft they are done enough ; take them 
out as they become soft, and drain them 
on a sieve, and let them stand until cold ; 
then make a syrup, to every pound of 



PRESERVES. 



501 



peaches allowing a pound of loaf-sugar — 
use some of the water in which the 
peaches were boiled for the syrup. Take 
the kernels of half a dozen peaches, 
throw them into hot water and remove 
tlieir skins, then boil them with the 
syrup 3-0U are making. Put the peaches 
into jars and glasses, and pour the syrup 
over them. 

Cut several round pieces of paper, dip 
thera in brandy, lay them over the pre- 
serves, and tie up the jars. 

Apricots, nectarines, and plums, may 
be preserved in the same manner. 

This way of preserving peaches is 
much preferable to cutting them up and 
then preserving them. The fruit should 
not be permitted to boil until it becomes 
shrivelled. 

1581.— BRANDT PEACHES. 

To each pound of peaches take three- 
quarters of a pound of white sugar. 
Make a syrup, in half of which boil the 
fruit, having first taken off the skin by 
scalding them in hot lye, which is made 
by dissolving as much salsoda in boiling 
water as will make it strong enough to 
bear an egg. 

The peaches are to be taken out of the 
lye as soon as the skin begins to crack, 
and thrown into cold water, when they 
can be rubbed quite clean with a coarse 
cloth. Rinse them in fresh water, wi'ap 
them in a cloth to drain, and keep them 
covered, as on this depends their color. 

When the boiled peaches are cold, add 
to the remainder of the syrup the same 
quantity of brandy. Put away the 
peaches in it, and cover tightly. 

1582.— GREEN GAGES. 

Allow equal weights of sugar and 
gages. Make a syrup of white sugar, 
and just water enough to cover the 
plums. Boil the plums slowly in the 
syrup ten minutes — turn them into a 
dish, and let them remain four or five 
32 



days, then boil thera again, till the syrup 
appears to have entered the plums. Put 
them into a china jar, and in the course 
of a week turn the syrup from them, 
scald it, and turn it over them hot. 

1583.— TO PRESERVE PEARS. 

Pare them very thin, and simmer them 
in a thin syrup, allowing only one-quar- 
ter of a pound of sugar to a pound of 
pears. Let them lie for two days, add 
another quarter of a pound of sugar to 
each pound of pears, and simmer them 
again. Let them lie all night, or longer 
if you please, then simmer them once 
more, this time adding half a pound of 
sugar to each pound of pears, with the 
juice of half a lemon to every two pounds 
of fruit. A small portion of the lemon- 
peel may also be used. The fruit may 
then be drained and dried in the sun, so 
that they may be used dry ; or they may 
be poured into the jars with the syrup 
over them. 

Another mode of preserving pears, 
and a less troublesome one, is to pare, 
quarter and core the pears, boil them for 
an hour in as much water as will cover 
them, then add to every pound of pears 
a pound of white sugar and the juice of 
half a lemon, boil the whole and skim it. 
When the pears are soft* pour them into 
jars and the syrup over them ; tie up the 
jars. 

This is a much mere expeditious way 
of preserving the pears, and perhaps the 
best for large families, where sweetmeats 
are in daily use ; but the fruit itself does 
not look as clear and beautiful as when 
preserved by the former method. 

Pear Marmalade — Boil the pears with 
the skins on. When soft, rub them 
through a sieve, and put to each pound 
of pulp three-quarters of a pound of 
brown sugar. Stew it over a slow fire 
till it becomes a thick jelly. It should 
be stirred constantly. 



502 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEE. 



Baked Pears. — Take half a dozen fine 
pears ; peel, cut them in halves, and take 
out the cores ; put them into a pan with 
half a pound of suE:;ar, and some water. 
Set them in a moderate oven till tender, 
then put them on a slow fire to stew 
gently ; add grated lemon-peel, and more 
sugar, if necessary. They will be suffi- 
ciently red. 

1584.— GOOSEBERRIES. 

The tops and tails being removed from 
the gooseberries, allow an equal quantity 
of finely pounded loaf-sugar, and put a 
layer of each alternately into a large 
deep jar ; pour into it as much dripped 
currant-juice, either red or white, as will 
dissolve the sugar, adding its weight in 
sugar ; the following day put all into a 
preserving-pan and boil it. 

Gooseberry Jam. — Take what quantity 
you please of red, rough, ripe gooseber- 
ries ; take half their quantity of lump 
pugar ; break them well, and boil them 
together for half an hour or more, if 
necessary. Put it into pots and cover 
with paper. 

1585.— CURRANT JELLY, (RED). 

Strip off the currants, put them in a 
jar, set the jar, in a kettle of hot water, 
let it boil an hour, then throw the cur- 
rants and juice into a fine lawn sieve, 
press out all the juice, and to every pint 
of juice put a pound of fine sugar ; put 
them in a preserving-pan, set it over a 
charcoal fire and keep it stirring till it is 
in a jelly, which you will know by tak- 
ing a little out to cool ; be careful to 
take off the ?cum as it rises, and when 
it is jellied and very clear pour it into 
glasses ; when cold, cut round pieces of 
paper that will just cover the jelly, dip- 
ped in brandy, put white paper over the 
glasses, twisting round the top. Make 
black currant jelly the same way, using 
coarse sugar. 



1586.— CLEAR APPLE JELLY. 

Pare and cut up five dozen large juicy, 
acid apples ; put them in a pan with as 
much water as will cover them, let them 
boil gently until soft, let them get cold, 
then strain them through a jelly bag, put 
the juice in your preserving pan, and to 
each pint of juice put one poimd of fine 
sugar and the peel of two lemons, then 
boil it until it is reduced to the stiffness 
of calves' -foot jelly, skim it well, add the 
juice of a lemon; it should be made in 
September, the flavor of the apple is better. 

Jelly may be made from apricots, 
raspberries, grapes, and other fruits, 
using a pound of sugar for each pint of 
juice, and following the above directions. 

1587.— COLORING FOR JELLIES, ETC. 

For a beautiful red, boil fifteen grains 
of cochineal in the finest powder, with a 
drachm and a half of cream of tartar in 
half a pint of water, very slowly, half 
an hour ; add in boiling a bit of alum, 
the size of a pea, or use beet-root sliced, 
and some liquor poured over. 

For white, use almonds finely powder- 
ed, with a little drop of water, or use 
cream. 

For yellow, yolks of eggs, or a bit 
of saffron steeped in the liquor and 
squeezed. 

For green, pound spinach leaves or 
beet leaves, express the juice, and boil a 
teacupful in a saucepan of water to take 
off" the rawness. 

1588.— FROSTED FRUIT. 

Pick out the finest cherries, plums, 
apricots, grapes, or small pears — leave on 
their stalks. Beat the whites of three 
eggs to a stiff" froth — drain them, and 
beat the part that drips off" again. Lay 
the fruit in the beaten egg with the stalks 
upward — select them out one by one, 
and dip them into a cup of finely pow- 
dered sugar. Cover a pan with a sheet 



PRESERVES. 



503 



of fine paper, place the fruit inside of it, 
and set it in an oven that is cooling. 
When the icing on the fruit becomes firm 
pile them on a dish and set them in a 
cool place. 

15S9.— GRAPES IN BRANDT. 

Take some close bunches, black or 
white, not over-ripe, and lay them in a 
jar. Put a good quantity of pounded 
white sugar upon them, and fill up the 
jar with brandy ; tie them close down 
with a bladder, and keep in a dry place. 
Each grape should be pricked thrice. 

They make a beautiful middle dish in 
a winter dessert. 

1590— CRANBERRY JELLY. 

Make a very strong isinglass jelly. 
When cold, mix it with a double quan- 
tity of cranberry juice pressed, sweeten 
it with loaf sugar, and boil it up ; then 
strain it into a shape. 

1591.— TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES, 
RASPBERRIES, AND BLACK- 
BERRIES, WHOLE. 

The strawberries should be gathered 
fresh from the vines. Select the largest, 
and those perfectly unbroken. Mash 
up the others and boil them for a quarter 
of an hour without any water — strain 
them through a fine jelly-bag. 

Measure the juice, and allow a pound 
of loaf sugar, to every quart of straw- 
berry juice. 

When you make the syrup allow a 
pint of spring water to every two pounds 
of sugar — skim the syrup thoroughly. 
When the scum ceases to rise pour in 
the juice of the berries and boil it 
from five to fifteen minutes, or until the 
syrup will hang in drops from a spoon. 

Pour the syrup into glass jars or tum- 
blers, and lifting the whole strawberries 
with a spoon, put as many of them in 
each jar as it will hold, without being at 
all crowded. The syrup should cover all 
well, and it is better to have too few 



than too many in every jar. Let the 
jars stand until the syrup is quite cold, 
and then tie them up with paper dipped 
in brandy. 

1592.— TO DRY CHERRIES. 

Weigh the cherries before they are 
stoned, and allow to every pound of 
fruit a quarter of a pound of lump-sugar ; 
when they are stoned set them over a 
slow fire to heat, then take them out of 
the liquor and put the sugar to them, 
and let them stand till it is dissolved. 
Then set them over the fire and let them 
just boil. Allow them to stand until 
they are quite cold, or, if convenient, for 
two or three days, in the syrup ; after- 
wards strain them, and spread them on 
sieves to dry, either on a stove or in the 
sun, or in an oven after the bread is 
drawn. 

The same syrup will do again for more 
fruit. 

To Dry without Sugar. — Stone, and 
set them over the fire in the preserving- 
pan ; let them simmer in their own 
liquor, and shake them in the pan. Put 
them in china common dishes ; next day 
give them another scald, and put them 
when cold on sieves to dry in an oven of 
temperate heat. Twice heating, an hour 
each time, will do them. 

Put them in a box, with a paper be- 
tween each layer. 

1593.— CURRANT JAM. 

Strip your currants, and put them into 
your pan, with three-quarters of a pound 
of sugar to a pound of fruit, add your 
sugar after your fruit has boiled a few 
minutes, boil all together, mashing your 
fruit with a wooden spoon ; boil all gently 
for half an hour, then fill your jars. 

Currants Preserved. — Take the seeds 
and stalks from whatever quantity of 
currants you intend to use, of which a 
fourth part must be white currants ; pui 



504 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



them into a preserving pan with a glass 
of water, let them boil up until the fruit 
bursts, then strain the juice t\vice, 
clarify and boil to casse some sugar, an 
equal weight to the fruit, pour the juice 
on it, boil them together a quarter of an 
hour, and having skimmed it well, pour 
it into pots. 

To preserve them dry. — Tie up in 
bunches ; to every pound of currants boil 
two pounds of sugar, till it boils very 
strong, dip in the currants, let them boil 
very fast till the sugar flies all over them ; 
when settled a quarter of an hour boil 
them till the sugar rises almost to the 
top of the pan, let them settle, skim them 
and set them by till next day, then drain 
them and lay them out, taking care to 
spread the sprigs that they may not dry 
clogged together ; dust them very much, 
and dry them in a hot stove. 

1594— FIGS 6EEEN, TO PEESERVE. 
Slit some small green figs on the top, 
and put them into water for ten days, and 
proceed thus : — Put as much salt into the 
water as will make it bear an egg, then 
let it settle, take off the scum and put 
the clear brine to the figs, keep them for 
ten days ; then put them into fresh water, 
shifting them every day for four days ; 
again drain, then put them into clarified 
sugar, warm them a little and let them 
stand till the next day; warm them 
again, and when they are become green 
give them a good boil, then boil some 
sugar down, put it to them and give 
them another boil, and next day drain 
and dry them. 

1595.— FIGS RIPE, TO PEESERVE. 
Take the figs when ripe, slit them in 
the tops, put them into clarified sugar, 
and give them a good boil, skim them, 
and leave them to stand till the next 
day. then boil some more sugar, put it 
to the figs and give them another boil, 
the next day drain and dry them. 



Eijje or Green Tomatoes — Make a nice 
preserve. They require a more than 
usual quantity of sugar. 

1596.— GINGER, PRESERVED. 

Take some green ginger, and with a 
sharp knife pare it neatly, and as it is 
pared throw into a pan of cold water to'' 
keep it white ; wheYi you have a sufiicient 
quantity boil it till tender, changing the 
water three times each time ; put it into 
cold water to take out the heat or spirit 
of the ginger, when tender throw it into 
cold water. For seven pounds of ginger 
clarify eight pounds of refined sugar ; 
when cold drain the ginger and put it into 
an earthen pan, with a sufficient quantity 
of the sugar cold to cover it, and let it 
stand for a couple of days ; then pour the 
syrup from the ginger to the remainder 
of the sugar, boil it for some time, and 
when cold pour it on the ginger again, 
and set by for three days at least. Then 
take the syrup from the ginger, boil it, 
and then put it hot over the ginger ; pro- 
ceed in this manner until 3'ou find the 
sugar has entered the ginger ; boiling the 
syrup and skimming off the scum that 
rises each time until the syrup becomes 
rich as well as the ginger; if the syrup 
is put on hot at first, or if too rich the 
ginger will shrink and not take the 
sugar. 

1597.— MARMALADE. 

Marmalade may be composed almost 
of any fruit ; the best however for this 
purpose are apricots, peaches, oranges, 
quinces, eggs, plums, apples, &c. ; they 
are usually made by boiling the fruit and 
sugar together to a kind of pulp, stirring 
them constantly while on the fire. It is 
kept in pots which must not be covered, 
till the marmalade is quite cold ; the pro- 
portion of sugar is half a pound to each 
pound of fruit. 

1598.— APPLE MARMALADE. 

Boil some pippins until they begin to 



get tender, then put them into cold water, 
pare and core them, squeeze the pulp 
through a sieve, and put it over the fire, 
letting it remain till it becomes very 
thick, then weigh an equal quantity of 
fine sugar, boil till the sugar rises in 
sparkles which cluster together, put the 
marmalade to it, and stir them well with 
a wooden spoon till the apples begin to 
boil, then take it off, and when a little 
cool put it into pots, but do not cover 
them until quite cold. 

1599.— ORANGE MARMALADE. 

Blanch the rinds of fifteen oranges 
without any of the white till soft, then 
soak them in cold water for a few min- 
utes, drain and pound them to a paste, 
which rub through a sieve ; ascertain its 
weight, and for each pound allow a 
pound and a half of sugar ; clarify and 
boil the sugar till the bubbles rise strong- 
ly to the surface ; put in the paste and 
boil them together, stirring continually 
till the marmalade is done. To know 
when the marmalade is fit to turn out 
and be potted, take some up between 
your thumb and finger, and if on opening 
them it draws out like a thread it is 
done. The Southerners use bitter 
oranges. 

Marmalades of raspberries, blackber- 
ries, plums, grapes, &c., are most in 
favor. 

JAMS. 

1600.— RASPBERERY. 

Take equal weights of fruit and moist 
sugar ; put them on the fire together ; 
keep stirring and breaking the fruit till 
the sugar melts, then boil it till it will 
jelly on a plate. 

1601.-CHEREY. 

Stone four pounds of cherries, and put 
them in a preserving-pan with two pounds 
of fin« white sugar and a pint of red- 



currant juice. Boil the whole together 
rather fast, until it stiffens, and then put 
it into pots for use. 

1602.— BLACKBERRY. 

In families where there are many 
children, there is no preparation of fruit 
so wholesome, so ?heap, and so much ad- 
mired, as this homely conserve. The 
fruit should be clean picked in dry 
weather, and to every pound of berries 
put half a pound of coarse brown sugar ; 
boil the whole together for three-quarters 
of an hour or one hour, stirring it well 
the whole time. Put it in pots like any 
other preserve, and it will be found most 
useful in families, as it may be given to 
children instead of medicine. 

Compotes of fruit are made by prepar- 
ing a syrup, and simmering the fruit in 
it two or three minutes, then pouring 
the syrup over, after it is boiled down a 
little ; a delicate light jelly is thus formed 
round the fruit. Not more than half the 
weight of the fruit in sugar, or even a less 
proportion, is used. The dish is a nice 
one for desserts, but will not keep. All 
kinds of fresh fruit may be thus pre- 
pared. 

1603.— TO PRESERVE ORANGES OR LEMONS 
IN JELLY. 

Cut a hole at the stalk the size of a 
shilling, and with a small blunt knife 
scrape out the pulp quite clear, without 
cutting the rind, and lay them in spring 
water two days, changing it twice a day ; 
in the last, boil them tender on a slow 
fire, keeping them covered to the last. 
To every pound of fruit take two pounds 
of double-refined sugar and one pint of 
water ; boil the two latter together with 
the juice of the orange to a syrup, and 
clarify it ; skim well and let it stand to 
be cold ; then boil the fruit in the syrup 
half an hour ; if not clear, do this daily 
till they are done. 



506 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



1604.— TO PRESERVE LEMON PEEL. 

Squeeze the juice out of the lemons, 
put the rinds, with the pulps, into water, 
and let them remain a fortnight, taking 
care always to have them covered with 
the same water ; then take out the pulp, 
and boil the rinds in the water till they 
can be pierced with a knitting needle ; 
make a rich syrup of brown sugar — pound 
for pound of rinds — and pour it boiling 
over them ; cover close for three weeks, 
then" give them a second boil in the 
syrup, and cover for use. 

1605.— BARBERRY CAKES. 

Pick the barberries and weigh them ; 
to every pound of fruit add one pound 
of sugar pounded and sifted. Bruise the 
barberries in a mortar, boil them gently 
till nearly all the juice is consumed, then 
take them off the fire and stir in the 
sugar by degi-ees ; drop the fruit on ear- 
then dishes to dry : it must not go over 
the tire after the sugar is put in. nor 
must there be any water used. Do not 
pound the barberries too small, as the 
cakes will not look so well. 

Currant cakes may be made in the 
same wajr. 

1606.— RASPBERRY CAKES. 

Take any quantity of fruit you please, 
weigh and boil it, and when mashed, and 
the liquor is washed, add as much sugar 
as was equal in weight to the raw fruit. 
Mix it very well o/f the fire till the 
whole is dissolved, then lay it on plates, 
and dry it in the sun. When the top 
part dries cut it off into small cakes, and 
turn them on a fresh plate. When dry, 
put the whole in boxes with layers of 
paper. 

1007.— BRANDY CHERRIES. 

Get the largest morel cherries you 
can, cut off half of the stalk, pricking 
each cherry with a needle, putting them as 



you do them into a high glass ; add three 
quarters of the weight in white candy 
sugar bruised between until full, a gill of 
Noyeau, and then fill up with French 
brandy ; tie a bladder over the bottle. 

1608.— CHERRIES IN BRANDY. 

Choose the finest and ripest cherries, 
leave on half the stalks, wash and weigh 
them ; to every pound of fruit allow a 
quarter of a pound of sugar ; when you 
have clarified and boiled it, put in the 
fruit, boil them up two or three times, 
then put the cherries into bottles, or 
glass jars ; when filled, add to each twelve 
cloves and half an ounce of cinnamon 
tied in a linen bag, put to the sugar 
when nearly cold, brandy in proportion 
of a jrtnt and a half to a pound of fruit, 
mix them together well, and pour them 
on the cherries. In two months' time 
taste them, and if suflScientty flavored, 
take out the cloves and cinnamon ; cover 
the jars close. 

Plums, apricots, &c,, can be done the 
same way. 

1609.— MOCK PRESERVED GINGER. 

Boil, as if for the table, small, tender, 
white carrots ; scrape them imtil free 
from all spots, and take out the hearts. 
Steep them in spring water, changing it • 
every day, until all vegetable flavor has 
left them. To every pound of carrot so 
prepared, add one quart of water, two 
pounds of loaf-sugar, two ounces of whole * 
ginger, and the shred rind of a lemon. 
Boil for a quarter of an hour every day, 
until the carrots are clear ; and, when 
nearly done, add red pepper to taste. This 
will be found equal to West India pre- 
served ginger, 

1610.— YANKEE APPLE BUTTER. 

Boil cider down one half; put in as 
many apples as the liquor will contain, 
stew them soft ; then take them out and 



TO KEEP FRUIT FRESH. 



507 



put in fresh apples. "When they are 
cold boil them again in the cider till 
they are pulpy and thick. Add different 
kinds of spice, a little before it is done. 
Keep in covered jars. 

1611.— CEA^BEREY SAUCE. 

Simmer the berries in a very little 
water, till very thick and pulpy ; sweeten 
to taste ; they will require as much as 
preserves ; strain the marmalade into a 
mould. 

1612.— TO KEEP PEACHES FRESH. 

Pare and halve your peaches, have 
your cans perfectly dry, set one at a time 
in a bain marie in boiling water, to drive 
out the air. Fill the can as full as you 
can without bruising the fruit ; if you 
have plenty of fruit, boil some in a very 
httle water, fill the can with it — and seal 
it immediately. Do not put any sugar 
in the peaches or juice. If you have not 
much fruit, a httle boiling water will do, 
as each can will hold but a few spoonfuls. 
Do not let it boil until it becomes 
colored. 

Any fruit or vegetables may be pre- 
served in the same manner. Inspect the 
cans daily, and if the tops bulge out, be 
sure the sealing has not been perfect, 
and fermentation has begun. Then 
open the can, use the article, and put 
up a fresh quantity. To open the can, 
set it in the oven, till the cement is 
soft ; then lift out the cover, and let 
the can cool. To open glass jars, hold 
a flat-iron, heated, on the cover till the 
cement softens. 

Butter may be kept unchanged for 
years in air-tight vessels, as sweet as if 
Iresh from the dairy. To insure means 
in excluding the air, it is best to fill the 
vessel nearly full of well worked fresh 
butter, allowing room for a thin layer of 
salt ; over this lay a piece of white paper ; 
pour on the paper half a teaspoonful of 
spirits of wine ; set it on fire ; hold the 



cover over the flame for an instant, and 
if you have spirits enough, it will furnish 
heat for the cover, then put it into place 
while the spirits are burning. 

Or, powder two pounds fine salt, one 
pound loaf-sugar, and half a pound of 
saltpetre. Sift these ingredients over a 
large sheet of paper, and mix them well ; 
then keep them covered close in a jar in 
a dry place. When the butter is well 
worked and salted, and ready to go into 
jars, use one ounce of this composition 
to every pound of butter. Work it well 
into the mass. In a month place the 
butter thus prepared into jars or else 
lay a cloth over the butler ; on this put a 
layer of salt, with a piece of white paper 
on the salt ; pour a httle spirits on the 
paper, set fire to it, and seal as above di- 
rected. 

161S.— TO KEEP TOMATOES. 

Peel the tomatoe.'s, and put them in a 
kettle over the fire till they boil for ten 
or fifteen minutes. They are then ready 
for sealing. The half-gallon or gallon 
sized cans are the best for the purpose. 
Fill one with the hot tomatoes, wipe off 
from the cement any juice, and put on 
the cover. The contents of the can will 
so heat the cover, that it is only neces- 
sary to press it firmly into place. When 
first closed, as the confined steam is 
elastic, it will rise up, and a weight, say 
of five or six pounds, must be used to 
keep it down ; or a piece of ice may be 
laid on it, which will condense the steam 
within. If the can is larger than the 
weight, put a board on first. When the 
cans are cold, if the sealing is perfect, the 
tops and bottoms will be concave. If 
the cement of the cover should not be 
sufficiently melted, hold on the top a 
heated flat-iron, till the cover goes down 
into its place. 

1614— TO PRESERVE GREEN CORN. 
Fill a strong tin canister with the corn, 
solder it tightly, place it in boiling 



508 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



water, and allow it to remain several 
hours. The top and bottom will swell, 
and the can may burst (if not strongly 
made) with the coufmed steam. Some 
puncture the vessel, and when the steam 
escapes, solder up the opening. Others 
do not consider this necessary ; or if the 
vessel, tightly covered, is cooked a long 
time in a bath of brine, in which a higher 
temperature may be obtained than in 
water, and then sealed hermetically, the 
vegetable will keep. 

1615.— TO CLARIFY SUGAR. 

Take the quantity of fine white loaf 
sugar you intend to clarify, add to it of 
very clean warm water, half a pint for 
every pound ; when dissolved add to it 
the white of one or two eggs — as the 
quantity may require — well whipped ; 
put it on the fire, and when it comes to 
a boil pour into it an ordinary teacupful 
of cold water ; on its rising again to a 
boil, remove it, and let it settle for 
twenty minutes, skim the scum from the 
top, pour oif the syrup into a clean ves- 
sel with sufficient quickness to leave all 
the sediment at the bottom, and such 
steadiness as to prevent any of the lat- 
ter rising and mixing with it. 

1617.— TO BOIL SUGAR FOE BASKETS OE 
SPINNING. 

Fill quite full a pint and a half stew- 
pan with pieces of lump sugar, fill the 
stewpan with clear spring water, let the 
water barely cover the sugar, put it on to 
boil, skim it all the time that any scum 
arises ; let it boil fast with the stewpan 
flat upon the fire, not halfway ; it will 
not boil over if your fire is regular. 
Then get ready a large basin of cold 
water, and when it has boiled some time 
and begins to appear all froth or bladders 
do not go away and leave it ; after hav- 
ing boiled so for some few minutes, have 
a silver spoon and dip it into it, and then 



into the water ; if it is getting to a sub- 
stance pour in the juice of half a lemon, 
free from pips, still keeping it boiling on 
the fire; keep frequently trying it by 
dropping and spinning a little in the cold 
water, and wLen it makes a crackling 
noise, and is very brittle, take oif your 
stewpan and pour it into a cold stewpan ; 
work it well with your spoon, give it one 
more boil, then take it off and hold the 
stewpan in cold water, stirring it all the 
time, for a minute or two ; it is then 
ready for a basket, or spinning, or what 
you may require it for. It is but very 
little used now for second courses ; at 
breakfasts and ball suppers it is gener- 
ally introduced and liked, but it too fre- 
quently answers the purpose of lock and 
key, saying as much, as " this must not be 
touched ; " many think it will do again, 
and do not like to break through it, 

The various purposes to which sugar 
is applied require it to be in different 
states ; these are called degrees. They 
extend to the number of thirteen, and 
are named in the following order : 

Petit Lisfe, or Fi7-st degree. — Replace 
the clarified sugar in the preserving-pan 
to boil gently, take a drop of it on the 
thumb, touch it with the forefinger ; if 
on opening them it draws to a fine thread, 
and in breaking forms two drops on each 
finger, it is at the right point. 

Lwse^ Second degree. — A little more 
boiling brings it to this point, when the 
thread will draw further before it breaks. 

Petit PerU, Third degree. — At this 
point the thread may be di*awn as far as 
the span will open without breaking. 

Grand Perle^ Fourth degree. — On still 
increasing the boiling, little raised balls 
are formed on the surface of the sugar. 

Petit Queue de Cochon, Fifth degree — 

Take up some of the sugar on a skim- 
mer, and drop it on the rest, when it 
should form a slanting streak on the sur- 
face. 

Grande Queue de Cochon, Sixth de- 



TO CAJSTDY FKUIT. 



509 



gree. — Boil it yet a little longer ; the 
streak or tail is now larger, and it has 
reached this point. 

Soupie, Seventh degree. — Take out a 
skimmerful of the sugar, blow through 
it and small sparks of sugar will fly 
from it. 

Petit Plume, Eighth degree. — The 
same proof as above ; the sparks should 
be larger and stronger. 

Grande Plume, Ninth degree. — Take 
the sugar in the skimmer as before ; give 
it a shake, and if the sparks are large, 
and adhei'e together on rising, it is at the 
right point. 

Petit Boulet, Tenth degree. — Dip your 
fingers in cold water, and then into the 
sugar instantly, and again into the water, 
when the sugar will roll into a ball 
which will be supple when cold. 

Gros Boulet, Eleventh degree. — At this 
point the ball or bullet will be harder 
when cold than the last. 

Cause, Twelfth degree. — Prove as above ; 
the bullet should crumble between the 
fingers, and on biting will stick to the 
teeth. 

Caramel, Thirteenth degree. — At this 
point it should snap clean when bitten. 
This point is very difficult to attain, for 
in increasing the height, the sugar is apt 
to burn ; it is better, therefore, to try the 
proof very frequently. 

Another caramel is much used by the 
confectioner, and is of a deep color ; it is 
made by putting a little water to the 
sugar, and boiling it without skimming 
or otherwise touching the sugar till of 
the right color, then take it off, and use 
immediately. 

If on preparing the sugar, you happen 
to miss the right point, add a little cold 
water, and boil once more. 

The skimmer should never be left in 
the preserving-pan after the sugar is clari- 
fied, nor after the scum is removed. 

Be very careful not to stir or disturb 



the sugar, as that would cause its dim- 
inution. 

In boiling the sugar, particularly the 
two last degrees, the sugar is continu- 
ously rising and falling, and on falling 
leaves marks on the side of the pan, 
which the heat of the fire would soon 
burn and thereby spoil the whole of the 
sugar. To avoid this have a sponge with 
cold water, and wipe the sides of the pan 
the instant the sugar has fallen. 

1617.— TO CANDY FEUIT. 

Having prepared your fruit, steep it in 
the syrup, and lay it as done in an open 
sieve, until the bottom is covered with 
one layer ; steep this suddenly in scald- 
ing water. This will remove any syrup 
which may cling to the fruit. Lay them 
aside on a napkin to drain, and go on 
with the others. You will have ready, 
finely-powdered, some of the best loaf 
sugar ; sift this over the fruit until they 
are white all over, without being toe- 
thickly encrusted ; lay them so as not to 
touch each other, on strainers or the 
reverse end of small sieves ; place them 
in a gently-warmed oven, watch them 
carefully, turning them until dry. The 
warmth of the oven must not be in- 
creased, but must not abate until the 
fruit is quite dry. 

Almonds. — Blanch any quantity of 
almonds, then fry them in butter till they 
are of a light brown color ; wipe them 
nicely with a napkin, and put them into 
a pan. Make a syrup of white sugar, 
and boil it to a thread — that is, until on 
your taking a drop of the sugar between 
the finger and thumb it will produce a 
thread ; care must be taken to boil it to 
the exact can dying-point ; pour it boil- 
ing-hot upon the almonds, and stir them 
till they are quite cold. This is an ex- 
cellent method of preparing almonds for 
dessert. 



Bon-hons.— Clour off the sugar from 
fresh candied citrou or orange-rind, cut 
it into squares one inch thick, stick them 
singly on a bit of tliin wire, and dip 
them into liquid barley-sugar ; rub a dish 
with a few drops of pure salad oil, and 
lay the fruit upon this to cool. They 
should be kept in tin canisters in a very 
dry place. 

Toffie. — Melt in a stewpan three ounces 
of fresh butter, add one pound of good 
moist sugar, stir it well over a gentle 
fire, and let it boil about a quarter of an 
hour, or till it cracks short between the 
teeth like barley-sugar; then pour it 
upon buttered dishes, and when nearly 
cold mark it across in squares that it 
may easily divide, or roll it into sticks. 
When half-boiled, the grated rind of a 
lemon or a teaspoonful of ground ginger 
may be added. A few sliced almonds 
may be added after it is poured upon the 
dishes. 



BEVEEAGES. 



Louis XII., of France, first gave per- 
mission to distil spirits on a large scale. 
So terrific were the effects twenty years 
afterwards, that Francis, his successor, 
was obliged, for the safety of his sub- 
jects, to enact a law, that the drunkard 
who remained incorrigible, after severe 
monitory punishments, should suffer am- 
putation of the ears, and be banished 
from the kingdom. How much more 
wisely would Francis have acted, if, in- 
stead of banishing the drunkard, he had 
banished the pernicious material of 
drunkenness! Take another example: 
Sweden was a temperate country, ar- 
dent spirits being, to a great extent, pre- 
vented from coming into ordinary use. 
In 1783, however, Gustavus, king of 
Sweden, gave permission for opening 
spirit shops in all the villages of his king- 



dom. His object was to increase his 
revenue, and that object he apparently 
for a time accomplished ; for immediate- 
ly ardent spirits were loaded with ficti- 
tious excellences, by those who loved 
them, and those who were interested in 
their sale : the drinking of them, which 
had formerly been carried on in secret, 
now became respectable ; and the con- 
sumption of them was greatly increased. 
But mark the consequence ; — such was 
the increase of drunkenness and crime, 
of fatal accidents and premature mor- 
tality, that the very same king who gave 
the permission, was obliged, for the pre- 
servation of his people, to withdraw it. 

Spruce Beer. — Allow an ounce of hops 
and a spoonful of ginger to a gallon of 
water. When well boiled, strain it, and 
put in a pint of molasses and half an 
ounce or less of the essence of spruce ; 
when cool, add a teacup of yeast, and 
put into a clean tight cask, and let it fer- 
ment for a day or two, then bottle it for 
use. You can boil the sprigs of spruce- 
fir in room of the essence. 

Ginger Beer. — Fourteen gallons water, 
fourteen pounds loaf sugar, four ounces 
ginger, well pounded ; boil one hour, add 
the whites of eight eggs beat up, and 
take off the scum ; strain the liquor into 
an earthen pan, let it stand till cold, then 
put it into your cask with the peel of 
fourteen lemons cut thin, and their juice 
strained. Add half a spoonful of ale- 
yeast on the top. Stop the vessel closely 
for a fortnight. Then it may be bottled, 
and in another fortnight will be fit for 



Another for Ginger Beer. — One pound 
sugar, one ounce ginger, one-half ounce 
of cream of tartar, one lemon sliced. 
Put all into a pan, pour over one and a 
half gallons boiling water, and when 
milk-warm put in a little yeast ; let it 
stand all night to work ; bottle it ; and 
in three days it is fit for use. 



B AVERAGES. 



511 



Lemonade. — Three lemons to a pint of 
water, makes strong lemonade ; sweeten 
to your taste. 

This is the best beverage for parties ; 
cool, refreshing, pleasant, and salubrious. 

Orangeade. — Roll and press the juice 
from the oranges, in the same way as 
from lemons. It requires less sugar than 
lemonade. The water must be pure and 
cold, and then there can be nothing more 
delicious than these two kinds of drink. 

Currant Wine. — Gather the currants 
when dry, extract the juice, either hj 
mashing and pressing the fruit, or put- 
ting it in a jar, placed in boiling water ; 
strain the juice, and for every gallon 
allow one gallon of water and three 
pounds of sugar. Dissolve the sugar in 
the water, and take off the scum ; let it 
cool, add it to the currant juice, and put 
the mixture in a keg, but do not close it 
tightly till it has ceased f'rmenting. 
which will not be under a week. In 
three or four weeks it may be bottled. 
The white of an egg beaten, mixed with 
a teaspoonful of cream of tartar, and 
stirred into the liquid, makes the wine 
look clear and bright. Some add a por- 
tion of spirits. 

Rasj)herry Vinegar. — To two and a 
half quarts of ripe raspberries put one 
pint of the best vinegar. Bruise them 
well and let it stand three days. Strain 
the juice through a bag, and add its 
weight of sugar. Boil it, skim well, and 
bottle it closely. 

Syrup of Almonds. — Blanch and pound 
in a marble mortar one pound of sweet 
and one ounce of bitter almonds ; adding 
a spoonful or two of orange-flower water. 
Mix a pint of rosewater with one of pure 
water, add it to the almonds, and pass 
the whole through a lawn sieve. Then 
boil three pints clarified syrup, and when 
it boils put in the almonds, and let them 
boil one minute. When cold put it into 
Dottles, and cork it for use. 

To make it for immediate use, after 



pounding the almonds, mix them with a 
quart of water, one of milk, and one of 
clarified syrup or capillaira, and pass 
through a sieve. 

Valencia Wine. — To each gallon of 
good spirits take the peel of eighteen 
lemons ; let them remain fortj'-cight 
hours in the spirits ; then add the juice 
with five quarts of cold spring water, 
three pounds of loaf sugar, a quarter of 
a pound of bitter almonds well blanched, 
half a drachm of saftron, and two ounces 
of ground ginger ; mix all together, and 
pour over all three quarts new milk, 
scalding hot, but not boiled ; let it stand 
till next day, then run it through flannel, 
like jelly. 

Mead tcithout fruit. — Boil honey — 
three or four pounds to a gallon of 
water — for an hour, skimming carelully, 
draining the skimmings, and returning 
what runs through. When nearly cool, 
stir in a teacupful of ytast for nine gal- 
lons, and let it ferment. Put it in a cool 
cellar, and bottle in a year. 

Currants and raspberry juice, orange 
and lemon peel, spices and aromatic herbs 
are often added to mead ; the last towards 
the end of the fermentation, in a muslin 
bag, weighed down with a piece of flint. 
Six quarts of red currants and two of 
black will do for twenty-five pounds of 
honey. 

Ratafias. — Ratafias are liquors pre- 
pared by infusing the juices and kernels 
of fruit in strong spirit with sugar. For 
the ratafia of cherries take two quarts 
of rectified spirits of wine, add two 
drachms beaten cinnamon, one of bruised 
cloves, and one ounce bruised coriander 
seeds. Cover and let them stand a week ; 
then from morella and black heart cher- 
ries press twelve pints of juice, add three 
pounds powdered loaf sugar, and mix 
with the spirit and spices ; add half the 
cherry stones, mashed in a mortar. 
Closely cover the stone jar, containing 
all these, and stir or shake it frequently. 



512 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



In two months pour it off; press and fil- 
ter the residuum. Then put it into 
bottles and cork it. 

Batafia. — B anch two ounces of peach 
and apricot kernels, bruise and put them 
into a bottle, and fill nearly up with 
brandy. Dissolve half a pound of white 
sugar-candy in a cup of cold water, and 
add to the brandy after it has stood a 
month on the kernels, and they are 
strained off; then filter through paper 
and bottle for use. The distilled leaves 
of peaches and nectarines, when the trees 
are cut in the spring, are an excellent 
substitute for ratafia in puddings. 

Cujnllaire^ is so called from being pre- 
pared from a kind of fern called ca/pillns 
veneris^ or maiden-hair ; but almost any 
other fern may be substituted for it. A 
syrup made from the Canada capillaire, 
with maple sugar, is sold. 

BEVERAGES COMPOSED PARTLY 
OF FERMENTED LIQUORS. 

Hot spiced wines were much in use till 
the beginning of the sixteenth century ; 
and some of these favorite compounds 
were known by the names of ypocras^ 
sack, and clary. The first of these, which 
took its name from the bag through 
which it was strained, called by apothe- 
caries '• Hippocrates's sleeve," was made 
either of white or red wine witli aromatics, 
such as ginger, cinnamon, aromatic seeds, 
and sugar. Clary was made from clar- 
et, with honey and aromatics ; and sack 
from the wine of that name, a kind of 
sherr}'. These were drunk as a " night 
cap," and at the conclusion of a ban- 
quet. Le Grand, in his '' Vie privee des 
Francois," observes that the poets of 
the tiiirteenth centur}'' speak with rap- 
ture of tliese delicious beverages ; and it is 
said that they were highly esteemed in 
convents and universities. A scale of 
perfection was even observed : when the 
compound was made of Bordeaux wine, 
it was simply called Bishop; but re- 



ceived the name of Cardinal when old 
Rhine wine was used ; and rose to the 
dignity of Pope when imperial Tokay 
was employed. The vestiges? of these 
ancient mixtures may still be seen in our 
mulled wine and bishop. 

7o mull Wine. — Boil the spices (cin- 
namon, nutmeg grated, cloves, and 
mace) in any quantity approved, in half 
a gill of water ; put to this a full pint of 
port, with sugar to taste. Mix it well, 
and serve hot with thin slips of toast or 
rusks. Lemon or orange juice may be 
added, and the water may be strained off 
from the spices. Ale or Porter may be 
mulled as above, and have toast or bis- 
cuits put to them. Formerly the yolks 
of eggs were mixed with mulled wine, as 
in making custard or egg-caudle, and 
many flavoring ingredients were employ- 
ed which are now disused. 

Bishop. — The day before it is wanted, 
grill over a clear, slow fire, of a pale 
brown, three large, bitter oranges. Place 
them in a small punch-bowl that will 
about hold them, and pour over them a 
full half pint from a bottle of old Bor- 
deaux wine, in which a pound and a 
quarter of loaf sugar is dissolved. Cover 
with a plate. When it is to be served 
next day, cut and squeeze the oranges 
into a small sieve placed above a jug, 
containing the remainder of the bottle of 
wine, previously made very hot ; add 
more syrup if it is wanted. Serve hot in 
large glasses, or in summer it may be 
iced. Bishop is often made of Madeira 
in England, and is perfumed with nut- 
megs, bruised cloves, and mace. It 
ought, however, to be made of oU gen- 
erous Bordeaux wine, or it fails of its 
purpose as a tonic liqueur. It is reckon- 
ed highly stomachic, and is served at 
French dinners, savans and recherches, 
either as the coup d''apres or after the 
dessert. 

Tlie wassail bowl of ancient times was 



BEVEKAGE8. 



513 



made of mild ale, well spiced and sweet- 
ened ; and sometimes with eggs beat up 
in it. 

The ancient Ypocras was made of a 
quart of red wine, an ounce of cinnamon, 
half an ounce of ginger, a quarter of an 
ounce of pepper, and half a pound of su- 
gar, all put into a bag and infused in the 
wine. 

Cool Tanhard. — The composition of 
this ancient beverage is of great variety. 
The basis is home-brewed ale, spices, and 
seasoning herbs. Some use cider instead 
of ale. 




Covered Pitcher. 

Egg Flip. — Heat a quart of good ale, 
and pour it into a pitcher ; in a similar 
pitcher beat up three or four eggs with a 
quarter of a pound of moist sugar, and 
one or two glasses of rum or brandy, 
flavoring it with nutmeg, ginger, and 
grated lemon peel. When the ale is 
quite hot, but not boiling, pour it 
quickly into the jug with the eggs, return 
this back into the other jug, and thus 
keep pouring the mixture backward and 
forward from one jug to another, till the 
whole is thoroughly incorporated, and as 
smooth as cream. 

Egg hot. — This is made in the same 
manner as the last, only there is no 
spirits nor spices ; simply the egg, and 
ale or beer, with sugar. 

Ale Posset. — Boil a pint of new milk 
with a slice of toasted bread ; pour a 
bottle of mild ale into a punch-bowl. 



sweeten, and add spices, and then pour the 
boiling milk over it. 

Sach Posset. — Boil some cream and 
grated sweet biscuits ; add sugar, cinna- 
mon, and nutmeg. Warm some sherry, 
and stir it into the cream ; then pour the 
whole quickly from one vessel to another 
until it be perfectly smooth ; or it may 
be made with eggs beat up in milk in- 
stead of the cream. 

Punch is a leverage made of various 
spirituous hquors or wine, hot water, the 
acid juices of fruits, and sugar. It is con- 
sidered to be very mtoxicating ; but this 
is probably because the spirit being 
partly sheathed by the mucilaginous 
juice and the sugar, its strength does not 
appear to the taste so great as it really 
is. Punch was almost universally drunk 
among the middle classes about fifty or 
sixty years ago. 

English Punch. — Rub the yellow rind 
of a lemon with lump sugar ; put this 
sugar into the punch-bowl, and squeeze 
the lemon juice to it, add the spirits, 
rum and brandy, in such proportions 
as are preferred, incorporate the spirits 
thoroughly with the sugar and lemon 
before pouring in the boiling watei-, and 
keep stirring the whole while this is 
pouring : some add Madeira or sherry. 
Punch is kept also cold in bottles, and in 
summer is liked. It is frequently made 
with whiskey. 

Regent's Punch. — A bottle of Cham- 
pagne, a quarter of a pint of brandy, a 
glassful of veritable Martinique: with 
this mix a pint or more of a strong infu- 
sion of the best green tea strained, and 
capillaire or simple syrup to taste. 

Norfollc Punch. — Pare thirty-two 
oranges, and the same number of lem- 
ons ; infuse the peel for two days in 
a large bottle or jar with a gallon of 
brandy (or whiskey), a little reduced 
in strength ; clarify in a gallon of 



614 



THE PRACTICAL HOrSEKEEPER. 



water four pounds of sugar ; when 
cold, strain the brandy (which will now 
be a tincture) to this : add the juices 
of the oranges and lemons, previously 
strained and bottled, when the peel is 
taken off ; cask the liquor, or put it in a 
jar, and stop it Avell ; in six weeks it 
may be gently poured, or drawn off, and 
bottled. A tincture of bruised nutmegs 
and cloves may be added to this com- 
pound ; this will keep any length of 
time, and in any climate. 

Victoria or S2d Regiment Punch. — 
Take the peel of two dozen lemons, and 
steep it for thirty-six hours in two quarts 
of rum. Pour the juice of the lemons on 
tliree pounds and a half of loaf sugar. 
Add two quarts of brandy, and seven 
quarts of cold water. 

]\Iix these together, and add by degrees 
two quarts of boiling milk, stirring it well. 
Let it stand four hours. 

Strain it two or three times through 
a flannel jelly bag, till perfectly clear ; 
bottle and cork it tight. Age improves 
it very much. 

Milh PuncTi. — Mix wine or brandy 
with milk ; sweeten to taste ; grate nut- 
meg on it. 

Wine Punch. — Port wine, two pints ; 
arrack, two pints ; the juice of twelve 
lemons ; sugar, one pound ; hot water, 
six pints. 

Tea Punch. — Hot tea, two pints ; ar- 
rack, thirteen ounces ; sugar, four ounces ; 
flavored by rubbing off the yellow peel of 
the lemons. 

French Punch. — Cut a lemon into thin 
slices, taking out the seeds ; boil them in 
water, and add a pinch of green tea, and 
let it infuse Ave minutes ; strain the 
whole, and add brandy and sugar suffi- 
cient. * 

Auld Man''s Milh of Scotland., or Egg- 
nog of America. — Beat the yolks and 
whites of six eggs separately ; put to the 



beat yolks sugar and a quart of new 
milk, or thin sweet cream ; add to this 
rum, whiskey, or brandy, about half a 
pint ; put in the whites of the eggs 
whipped up, and stir the whole gently. 
It may be flavored with nutmeg or rind 
of lemon. 

Sangaree is a kind of punch fiequently 
drunk in the We.'^t Indies, and is com- 
posed of one-third Madeira or porter, and 
two-thirds water, acidu'ated with lime 
juice and sweetened with sugar. 

Mulled Cider. — Boil a quart of cider, 
watered, if too strong, with cloves and 
allspice. Beat six eggs, sweeten, and 
add tliem to the boiling cider, with a 
pint or more of cream. Pour the liquor 
from one pitcher to another till it has a 
fine froth, and serve it warm. 

Cherry Bounce. — Take twelve pounds 
cherries, mashed, and mixed with three 
pounds sugar : add two gallons whiskey. 
Put it into a closed vessel, shake it often, 
and let it stand four months before bot- 
tling. 

WINES AND LIQUEURS. 

Ginger Wine. — Take fourteen gallons 
of water, six pounds of sugar, four ounces 
of bruised ginger, and the whites of two 
eggs, well beaten ; mix them, set on a 
fire, boil it fifteen minutes, skim it well 
and when cold, pour it into an earthen 
vessel, squeeze in the juice of four lemons, 
and the rinds pared exceedingly thin, put 
to it a teacupful of ale-ycast. let it work 
for a day and a night, then turn it into a 
cask, bung it up, and in a fortnight you 
may bottle it off. 

Blackberry Wine. — Put some ripe 
blackberries into a large vessel with a 
cock in it ; pour on as much boiling 
water as will cover them, and as soon as 
the heat will permit, bruise them well 
with the hand till all the berries are 
broken, cover them, and in about three 
or four days, when the berries rise to the 



WINES. 



51i 



top, draw off the clear part into another 
vessel ; add to every ten quarts of the 
liquor one pound of su^ar, stir it well in, 
and let it stand a week or ten days to 
work. Draw it oif through a jelly bag-. 
Steep four ounces of isinglass in a pint of 
sweet wine for twelve hours, then boil it 
slow].y till dissolved, put it in a gallon of 
the juice ; boil them tog■et^er, then put 
all together, let it stand a few days, and 
bottle. 




Water Cooler. 
To preserve Ice twelve hours. 

Cherry Wine. — For every five pints of 
this wine, take fifteen pounds of cherries, 
and two of currants ; bruise them to- 
gether, mix with them two-thirds of the 
kernels, and put the whole of the cherries, 
currants, and kernels into a barrel with 
a quarter of a pound of sugar to every 
pint of juice. The barrel must be quite 
full ; cover the barrel with vine leaves 
and sand above them, and let it stand un- 
til it has done working, which will be in 
about three weeks ; then stop it with a 
bung, and in two months' time it may be 
bottled. 

UMiiarh Wine. — The leaf stalks of 
rhubarb cut in pieces as for tarts, and 
bruised with a wooden mallet to espress 
the juice, will make a wine equal to 
green gooseberry, and resembling cham- 
pagne. 

Wine made from mixed fruits. — Take 
cherries, raspberries, and black and white 



currants — of each an equal quantity. To 
four pounds well bruised put one gallon 
<jf water. Steep the mass three da^'s 
and nights, frequently stirring it in an 
open ves.sel, then run it through ahiir 
sieve, and to each gallon of liquor put 
three pounds sugar. Lot it stand again 
three da3's and nights, stirred often and 
skimming the top ; then turn it into a 
cask, and let it ferment at the bunghole 
two weeks. To every nine gallons put 
one quart best brandy, and fasten down 
the bung. If not soon clear stir in a 
solution of isinglass. 

Black Currant Wine {very fine). — To 
every three quarts of juice put the same 
of water unboiled, and to everj^ three 
quarts of the liquor add three pounds of 
very pure moist sugar; put it into a 
cask, reserving for a little filling up; put 
the cask in a warm dry room, and tlie 
liquor will ferment of itself; skim off the 
refuse when the fermentation shall be 
over, and fill up with the reserved liquor ; 
when it has ceased working pour three 
quarts of brandy to forty quarts of wine ; 
bung it close for nine months, then bottle 
it, and drain the thick part through a 
jelly-bag until itbe.clear, and bottle that ; 
keep it ten or twelve months. This re- 
cipe is most excellent. The wine will 
keep for six years. 

Gooseberry Wine. — To every three 
pounds of gooseberries put a pint of 
spring water unboiled, having first bruis- 
ed the fruit with the hands in a tub; 
stir them very well ; let them stand a 
whole day. then strain them off, and to 
every three pounds of gooseberries add a 
pint of water, and one pound of sugar 
dissolved ; let it stand twenty-four hours 
longer, then skim the head clean off, and 
put the liquor into a vessel, and the scum 
into a flannel bag, adding the liquor that 
drains from it to that in the vessel ; let 
it work two or three days before stop- 
ping it up close, and allow it to stand 



516 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEE. 



four months before it is bottled. When 
it is drawn out of the cask it should not 
be tapped too low. 

. Green Gooseberry Wine. — Take thirty- 
two quarts of unripe gooseberries of the 
green kind, bruise tiiem well, add thirty- 
two quarts of cold water ; let them stand 
for twenty-four hours ; drain the goose- 
berries well from the liquor through a 
sieve ; put three pounds and a half of 
lump-sugar to every gallon of liquor ; put 
it into a cask with a bottle of the best 
gin ; let it stand six months, and then 
bottle it. 

FronUniac. — Boil eighteen pounds of 
white sugar in six gallons of water with 
two whites of eggs well beaten. Skim 
it, and put in a quarter peck of elder- 
flowers ; do not keep them on the fire ; 
when nearly cold, stir it, and add six 
spoonfuls of lemon-juice and four or five 
of yeast ; beat the whole well into the 
liquor. Stir it every day, put six pounds 
of the best raisins, stoned, into the cask, 
and tun the wine. Stop it close, and 
bottle it at the end of six months. This 
wine requires keeping. 

Elder Wine. — Pour four quarts of 
water upon eight quarts of berries, and 
let it stand a day or two ; then boil it 
for about an hour, strain it, and put three 
pounds of moist sugar to every gallon of 
wine ; then add one ounce of cloves and 
cinnamon, with two oimces of ginger ; 
boil it again, and work it with a toast, 
dipped in yeast. 

Elder-fiower Wine. — Take twelve 
pounds of loaf-sugar and six pounds of 
the best raisins, cut small, and boil them 
in six gallons of water for one hour. 
Then take half a peck of elder-flowers, 
when ready to shake ; put them into the 
liquor, when it is nearly cold, with four 
table-spoonfuls of fresh yeast, and six of 
lemon-juice. Let it work two days in 
the tub, then strain it, put it into the 



barrel, bung it up closely for two months, 
and then bottle it. 

These are excellent domestic wines, 
generally taken mulled, with dr3'- toast ; 
and the flavor will be improved if, while 
warming, a grating of nutmeg be added 

Ncgiis. — One bottle of wine, half a 
pound of sugar, and a lemon sliced. 
Pour three pints of boiling water upon 
this mixture, and grate nutmeg to the 
taste. 

Such is the common mode of making 
negus ; for making a single twniblerfvl.^ 
however, as many people prefer to do it 
in their own way, perhaps a better plan 
is to use only half the quantity of water, 
poured 'boiling hot upon the wine already 
sweetened and flavored with nutmeg ; 
but having in it also a large and very 
thin cut rind of orange, which gives 
it a very superior flavor, without any 
portion of the acid. 

The negus may be made of either white 
or red wine ; and, if drunk cold, is called 
" sangaree." 

The following is a French receipt : — 
One pound of cherries, four pounds of 
currants, two pounds of black cherries ; 
squeeze all together, then let it stand in 
a cool cellar for three days ; put the juice 
on the fire in a preserving-pan, and allow 
it to bubble ; add sugar as for raspberry 
vinegar, and bottle it. This makes a de- 
licious summer beverage. 

Noyau. — To three quarts of best bran- 
dy or spirits put three pounds of white 
sugar broken small, a quarter of an ounce 
of cinnamon, the peel of two lemons and 
juice of one, and eight ounces bitter al- 
monds ; mix, and when the sugar is dis- 
solved, pour in a pint of boiling milk. 
Cover close, stir it every day for three 
weeks, and filter it through a filtering 
paper. It may be necessary to add a 
little more spirits. 

Elder Wine — another way. — To three 
pounds of elderberries put one pound of 



PINK AND GRAPE CHAMPAGNE. 



517 



damsons, and to a nine-gallon cask put a 
pint of sloes. Boil two gallons of water 
with an ounce of hops for an hour and a 
half; then put in sugar, such as four 
pounds to five quarts of water ; keep 
skimming as it rises, and then set it to 
cool ; boil the fruit for half an hour, 
strain the juice, and put a quart of it to 
e\evy gallon of water ; then let it work 
with jreast for three days ; put it in the 
barrel and stop it close. The spice and 
sugar to be put according to taste. When 
the wine has stood six weeks put in four 
pounds of stoned raisins. 

Pinh Champagne. — Boil nine pounds 
of lump-sugar in three gallons of water 
for half an hour, skim it well, and pour 
the liquor boiling hot over a gallon of red 
and white currants picked, but not bruis- 
ed. When nearly cold, put in a small 
teacupful of yeast. Keep it working for 
two days, then strain it through a horse- 
hair sieve, put it into a small cask with 
half an ounce of isinglass. Have rather 
more liquor than will fill the cask to fill 
it up as it works over. In about a fort- 
night bung it up. Let it stand till April ; 
put into each bottle a lump of double- 
lefined sugar. Let the bottles remain 
one day uncorked. Cork and wire them. 
They must stand upright in the cellar ; 
when wanted, put a few on their sides 
for about a week. 

Grape Champagne to equal foreign. — 
Gather the grapes when they are just 
turning, or about half ripe. Pound them 
in a tub, and to every quart of fruit put 
two quarts of water. Let it stand in a 
mash-tub for fourteen days, then draw it 
off, and to every gallon of liquor add three 
pounds of lump-sugar. When the sugar 
is dissolved, cask it, and, after it has 
done working, bung it down. In about 
six months it will be fit to drink, when 
it should be bottled, and the corks tied 
down, or wired if it is to be kept more 
than a year. 

33 



COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 




Invalid's Breakfast Set. 

It may be necessary to premise that 
a choice should be made of those things 
most likely to agree with the patient, 
and, as invalids require variety to indulge 
their appetite, frequent changes should 
be provided, but great simplicity ob- 
served in the preparation. Perhaps jel- 
lies and meat broths, together with vari- 
ous kinds of farinaceous food, are the 
lightest on the stomach, as well as. gen- 
erally speaking, the most nutritious. 

A Good Jelly. — Soak twelve shanks of 
mutton four hours, then brush and scour 
them very clean. Lay them in a sauce- 
pan with three blades of mace, an onion, 
twenty Jamaica and thirty or fortj' black 
peppers, a bunch of sweet herbs, and a 
crust of bread made very brown by 
toasting. Pour three quarts of water to 
them, and set them on a hot hearth close 
covered ; let them simmer as gently as 
possible for five hours, then strain it off, 
and put it in a cold place. 

This may have the addition of a pound 
of beef, if approved, for flavor. It is a 
remarkably good thing for people who 
are weak. 

Sheep's heads and trotters are also 
good restoratives ; savory jelly may also 
be made in the same manner, without 
lemon, wine, or sugar, but flavored with 
ham and spice. 



518 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



Dr. Eatcliff's Porl Jelly.— Take a leg 
of well-fed pork, just as cut up ; I eat it, 
and break the bone. Set it over a gentle 
fire with three gallons of water, and 
simmer to one. Let half an ounce of 
mace and the same of nutmegs stew in 
it. Strain through a fine sieve. When 
cold, take off" the fat. Give a coflee- 
cupful the first and last thing, and at 
noon, putting salt to taste. 

Lambs' feet are very nutritious ; pur- 
chase them ready cleaned ; lay them ten 
minutes in boiling water, by doing 
which you will be able to draw out the 
leg-bone with facility ; then put them in 
a stewpan (two would be sufficient), and 
pour over a pint of water with which 
you have mixed smoothly a table-spoon- 
ful of flour, and half a teaspoonfal of salt ; 
place them upon the fire, stirring fre- 
quently until boiling, then add a small 
onion, with cclcrj^, parsley, and parsnip; 
boil gently for two hours, and when done, 
serve plain upon a plate, or with a little 
melted butter and parsley poured over. 
By using a little white broth from any 
meat, instead of water, you make a deli- 
cious soft soup, which may be partaken 
of freely. 

Calves' feet are dressed in the same 
manner, but using a double proportion of 
every thing, and stewing them double the 
time ; they are served precisely the same. 

Heal Essence of Beef. — Take one 
pound of beefsteak, cut it into thin 
slices, which scrape fine ; put it into a 
stewpan, and stir over the fire five or 
ten minutes, until thoroughly warmed 
through, then add half a pint of water, 
cover the stewpan as tightly as possible, 
and let it remain close to the fire or in a 
warm oven for twenty minutes ; then 
pass it through a sieve, pressing the meat 
with a spoon to extract all the essence. 

Strengthening Jelly. — Take two 
pounds of gravy-beef, cut into small 
pieces ; put the pieces into a jar, cover 



close, and stand the jar in a saucepan of 
water ; let it simmer from four to six 
hours. This I have made from either 
beef or veal. I have found it invaluable 
in cases of sickness, and it will be found 
that the real essence of the meat is ex- 
tracted. 

A Clear Broth that will Iceep long. — 
Put the mouse-round of beef, a knuckle- 
bone of veal, and a few shanks of mut- 
ton, into a deep pan, and cover close 
with a dish or coarse crust ; bake till 
the beef is done enough for eating with 
only as much water as will cover it. 
\A'hen the broth is cold, cover it close, 
and keep it in a cool place. ^Vhen it is 
to be used, give what flavor may be best 
liked. Cowhecls make good broth. 

For a quick-made Broth., take a bone 
or two of a neck or loin of mutton, take 
off the fat and skin, set it on the fire in 
a small tin saucepan that has a cover, 
with three-quarters of a pint of water, 
the meat being first beaten and cut in 
thin bits ; put a bit of thyme and pars- 
lej'^. and, if approved, a slice of onion. 
Let it boil very quickly ; skim it ; take 
off the cover if likely to be too weak, 
else cover it. Half an hour is suflBcicnt 
for the whole process. 

Liehig''s Beef Tea. — Chop a pound of 
lean beef as fine as for sausage-meat — 
mix with a pint of cold water — put it 
over a slow fire — when it has boiled five 
minutes^ strain through a coarse cloth. 
Salt to taste. 

ChicTcen Broth. — Boil a chicken in a 
quart of water till about three parts 
cooked, or about a quarter of an hour ; 
remove the skin and the rump, and put 
it into the water it was boiled in, Avith a 
slice of onion, ten white peppercorns, 
and a blade of mace ; then simmer until 
it has a good flavor. Beat a quarter of 
an ounce of blanched sweet almonds 
with a teaspoonful of water, till of a 



good consistence and fine, add this paste 
to the broth, simmer for a minute, then 
remove, strain, and set aside to get cold. 
When quite cold, remove the fat, and 
warm the broth again ; season with salt, 
and serve in a broth basin, with toast 
dice on a plate. 

Panada is merely a preparation of 
bread made up in various ways. 

To male it in Jive mimitcs. — Set a lit- 
tle water on the fire with a glass of white 
wine, some sugar, and a scrape of nut- 
meg and lemon-peel : meanwhile grate 
some crumbs of bread. The moment 
the mixture boils up, keeping it still on 
the fire, put the crumbs in, and let it boil 
as fast as it can. When of a proper 
thickness just to drink, take it off. 

Or : — Put to the water a bit of lemon- 
peel, mix the crumbs in, and, when nearly 
boiled enough, put some lemon or orange 
sjTup. Observe to boil all the ingre- 
dients, for, if any be added after, the 
panada will break and not jelly. 

CMcTcen Panada. — Boil a chicken till 
about three parts ready in a quart of 
water ; take off the skin, cut the white 
meat off when cold, and put into a mar- 
ble mortar : pound it to a paste with a 
little of the water it was boiled in, sea- 
son with salt, a grate of nutmeg, and the 
least bit of lemon-peel. Boil gently for 
a few minutes to the consistency you 
like ; it should be such as you can drink, 
though tolerably thick. 

This conveys great nourishment in a 
small compass. 

8i2Jpets. — On an extremely hot plate 
put two or three sippets of bread, and 
pour over them some gravy from beef, 
mutton, or veal, with which no butter 
has been mixed. Sprinkle a little salt 
over. 

Port Wine Jelly. — Melt in a little 
warm water an ounce of isinglass ; stir it 
into a pint of port wine, adding two 



ounces of sugar-candy, an ounce of gum 
arable, and a nutmeg grated. Mix it all 
well, and boil it ten minutes ; or till 
every thing is thoroughly dissolved. 
Then strain it through muslin, and set it 
away to get cold. For rice jelly, having 
picked and washed a quarter of a pound 
of rice, mix it with half a pound of loaf 
sugar, and just sufficient water to cover 
it. Boil it till it becomes a glutinous 
mass ; then strain it ; season it with 
whatever may be thought proper, and 
then let it stand to cool. 

Caudle is made in various ways. Make 
a fine smooth gruel of half-grits ; strain 
it when boiled well ; stir it at different 
times till cold. When to be used, add 
sugar, wine, and lemonpeel, with nutmeg. 
Some like a spoonful of brandy besides the 
wine ; others like lemon-juice. 

Another. — Into a pint of fine gruelj 
not thick, put, while it is boiling-hot, the 
yolk of an egg beaten with sugar, and 
mixed with a large spoonful of cold 
water, a glass of wine, and nutmeg. Mix 
by degrees. It is very agreeable and 
nourishing. Some like gruel with a 
glass of table-beer, sugar, &c., with or 
without a teaspoonful of brandy. 

Dr. Boerhaave's Sweet Buttermilk. — 
Take the milk from the cow into a 
small churn ; in ten minutes begin, and 
churn till flakes of butter swim about 
thick, and the milk appears thin and blue ; 
strain it through a sieve. It should 
form the patient's drink, with biscuits, 
rusk, ripe and dried fruits, &c. 

Flour Caudle. — Into five large spoon- 
fuls of water rub smooth one dessert- 
spoonful of fine flour. Set over the fire 
five spoonfuls of new milk, and put two 
bits of sugar into it ; the moment it boils 
pour into it the flour and water, and stir 
it over a slow fire twenty minutes. It is 
a nourishing and gently astringent food. 
This is an excellent food for babies who 
have weak bowels. 



520 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



Apple Paste. — Pare your apples and 
cut them down. Weigh them, and allow 
an equal quantity of white sugar ; put 
them into a jar, and boil till quite soft. 
Boil your sugar to a syrup, then drop in 
the apples with a teacupful of marmal- 
ade and a little grated ginger ; let thern 
simmer ten minutes. Wet your shapes 
with spirits, and dish them. They will 
turn out firm, and keep for years. The 
apples must hejmt into cold water as they 
are pxired. The proportion of water is a 
breakfast cupful to two pounds of 
sugar. 

To Bake Ajjples. — Sweet apples proper- 
ly baked and eaten with milk are excel- 
lent. The best method of baking tart 
apples IS, to take the fairest and largest in 
size, wipe them clean if thin skinned, and 
pare them if the skin is thick and tough. 
Cut out the largest portion of the core 
from one end, and place the fruit on well 
glazed earthen dishes or pans, with the 
end which has been cored upwards, and 
fill the cavity with refined powdered 
sugar. Then place them in the oven or 
other apparatus for baking until sufficient- 
ly cooked. Take them out and when 
cold they are perfectly delicious. 

Apple Tapioca (« new receipt for in- 
valids). — Pare, core, and quarter eight 
apples ; take half a spoonful of tapioca ; 
put it to soak and swell all night in the 
water ; put in half a teacupful of white 
sugar, and a little lemon-peel ; put this 
into a stewpan and let the tapioca simmer 
ten minutes, then put in the apples and 
stew ton minutes more. When the 
tapioca is clear, it will form a jelly around 
the apples. 

Chichen Jelly. — For chicken jelly take 
a large chicken, cut it up into very small 
pieces, bruise the bones, and put the 
whole into a stone jar with a cover that 
will make it water-tight. Set the jar in 
a large kettle of boiling water, and keep 
it boiling for four hours. Then strain 



off" the liquid, and season it slightly with 
salt, pepper, and mace ; or with loaf- 
sugar and lemon-juice, according to the 
taste of the person for whom it is in- 
tended. Return the fragments of the 
chicken to the jar, and set it again in a 
kettle of boiling water. You will find 
that you can collect nearly as much jelly 
by the second boiling. This jelly may be 
made of an old fowl. 

BaJced Milk, — Mix new milk with 
buttermilk, in the proportion of a pint 
of the former to a wineglassful of the 
latter. Let it stand in a covered jar, be- 
fore the fire, all night ; in the morning it 
will be as thick as clotted cream. Pour 
fro 1! one jar to another till it is again of 
the consistency of new milk ; put it into 
a stone bottle, tightly corked ; add a few 
lumps of white sugar ; let it again stand 
before the fire, (not too near,) for five or 
six hours, it will then be ready to drink. 
Care must be taken in opening the bottle, 
as it sometimes effervesces. Besides 
forming a very wholesome and strength- 
ening drink, it is a most delicious and re- 
freshing beverage in summer. Invalids 
should take about a pint a day. If it is 
at all acid, it has not been properly made, 
and should not be taken. 

Asses'' Milk far surpasses any imita- 
tation of it that can be made. It should 
be milked into a glass that is kept warm 
by being in a basin of hot water. 

The fixed air that it contains gives 
some people a pain in the stomach. At 
first a teaspoonful of rum may be taken 
with it. but should only be put in the 
moment it is to be swallowed. The ani- 
mal should always be milked at the door. 

Artificial Asses'' Milk. — Mix two spoon- 
fuls of boiling water, two of milk, and 
an egg well beaten ; sweeten with pound- 
ed white sugar-candy. This may be taken 
twice or thrice a day. 

WiTie Whey. — Stir into a pint of boil- 



r~ 



COOKERY FOE THE SICK. 



521 



mg milk a couple of glasses of wine. Let 
it boil a minute, then take it from the 
fire, and let it remain till tne curd has 
settled ; then turn off the whey, and 
sweeten it with white sugar. 

Toast Water. — Pare the crust off a 
thin slice of stale bread, toast it brown 
upon both sides, doing it equally and 
slowly, that it may harden without being 
burnt ; put it into a jug, and pour upon 
it boiling water ; cover the jug with a 
saucer, and set it in a cool place. 




Rice Chruel. — Put a large spoonful of 
unground rice into six gills of boiling wa- 
ter, with a stick of cinnamon or mace. 
Strain it when boiled soft, and add half 
a pint of new milk ; put in a tea-spoon- 
ful of salt, and boil it a few minutes 
longer. If you wish to make the gruel 
of rice flour, mix a table-spoonful of it 
smoothly, with three of cold water, and 
stir it into a quart of boiling water. Let 
it boil five or six minutes, stirring it 
constantly. Season it with salt, a little 
butter, and add, if you like, nutmeg and 
white sugar. 

Water Gruel. — Mix a couple of table- 
spoonfuls of Indian meal with one of 
wheat flour, and sufficient cold water to 
make a thick batter. If the gruel is 
liked thick, stir it into a pint of boiling 
water — if liked thin, more water will be 
necessary. Season the gruel with salt, 
and let it boil six or eight minutes, stir- 
ring it frequcntl V — then take it from the 
fire, put in a piece of butter, of the size 
of a walnut, and pepper to the taste. 
Turn it on toasted bread, cut in small 
pieces. 



Molasses Posset. — Put into a saucepan 
a pint of the best West India molasses, a 
teaspoonful of powdered white ginger, 
and a quarter of a pound of fresh butter. 
Set it on hot coals, and simmer it slowly 
for half an hour, stirring it frequently. 
Do not let it come to a boil. Then stir 
in the juice of two lemons, or two table- 
spoonfiils of vinegar ; cover the pan, and 
let it stand by the fire five minutes long- 
er. This is good for a cold. Some of it 
may be taken warm at once, and the re- 
mainder kept at hand for occasional use. 

Wine Posset. — Boil some slices of 
white bread in a pint of milk ; when soft 
take it oft' the fire, and grate in some nut- 
meg and a little sugar ; pour it out, 
put half a pint of sweet wine into it by 
degrees, and serve it with toasted bread. 

Balm Mint, and other Teas. — These 
are simple infusions, the strength of 
which can only be regulated by the 
taste. They are made by putting- either 
the fresh or the dried plants into boiling 
water in a covered vessel, which should 
be placed near the fire for an hour. The 
young shoots both of balm and of mint 
are to be preferred, on account of their 
strong aromatic qualities. These infu- 
sions may be drunk freely in feverish and 
in various other complaints, in which di- 
luents are recommended. Mint tea made 
with the fresh leaves, is useful in allay- 
ing nausea and vomiting. 

Tapioca Jelly. — Take four table-spoon- 
fuls of tapioca — rinse it thoroughly, then 
soak it five hours, in cold water enough 
to cover it. Seta pint ofcold water on the 
fire — when it boils, mash and stir up the 
tapioca that is in water, and mix it with 
the boiling water. Let the whole sim- 
mer gently, with a stick of cinnamon or 
mace. When thick and clear, mix a 
couple of table-spoonfuls of white sugar, 
with half a table-spoonful of lemon-juice. 
and half a glass of white wine — stir it 
into the jelly ; if not sweet enough, add 



522 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



more sugar, and turn the jelly into 
cups. 

Mulled Wine. — Boil a pint of wine with 
uutniep', cloves, and sugar, serve it with 
slices of toasted bread ; or, beat up the 
yolks of four eggs with a little cold wine, 
and mix them carefully with the hot 
wine, pour it backwards and forwards 
till it looks fine, heat it again over the 
fire till it is tolerably thick, pour it back- 
wards and forwards, and serve with 
toasted bread as above. 

Or. — Boil some spice in a little water 
till the flavor is extracted, then add a 
pint of port wine, with some sugar and 
nutmeg. 

Brandy MMure. — Mix a gill of brandy, 
and the same quantity of cinnamon wa- 
ter, with the yolks of two eggs, half an 
ounce of powdered white sugar, and two 
drops of oil of cinnamon. This is a valu- 
able restorative in cases of extreme ex- 
haustion, given at intervals of ten to fif- 
teen minutes, in doses of from one to 
three table-spoonfuls. 

Sago Gruel. — Macerate an ounce (or a 
table-spoonful) of sago in a pint of 
water for two hours, then boil for a 
quarter of an hour, taking care to stir 
it well ; sweeten with sugar, and add 
lemon-juice, nutmeg, or ginger, and white 
wine if allowed. 

Caudle., York. — Take a pint of new 
milk, turn it with wine, then strain, and 
put it into a saucepan with two blades of 
mace, three slices of white bread, and a 
little grated nutmeg. Boil over a slow 
fire, then beat the yolks of four eggs, and 
the whites of two ; stir into the caudle 
to thicken, taking care to stir one way 
for fear of curdling it ; sweeten to taste, 
and serve warm. 

Flax-seed Lemonade. — Boil some flax- 
seed in water until it becomes a thick 
syrup. To a table-spoonful of flax-seed 
allow about two tumblers full of water. 



Strain it through a cloth and mix with a 
quarter of a pound of white sugar. Then 
stir in a little lemon juice. This mix- 
ture has frequently been very service- 
able in relieving a cold. A little of it 
may be taken whenever the cough is 
troublesome. A»little gum arable added 
to the syrup will be an improvement. 

Cocoa. — To two ounces of cocoa allow 
a quart of water. Put it in a saucepan 
and let it boil slowly for about an hour. 
The cocoa shells boiled in this manner 
will make a veiy pleasant beverage, and 
will not be so rich as the ground cocoa. 

Barley Water. — Wash carefully two 
ounces of barley and put it into a sauce- 
pan with a quart of water and a few rai- 
sins. Let it boil until the liquid is about 
half diminished. Sweeten it and drink it 
hot. A little lemon-peel or some liquor- 
ice root put in with the barley instead 
of or with the raisins, and some sliced figs, 
may please some tastes. When only 
a drink is required, it is better to strain 
the liquid ; but the boiled barley with a 
little sugar will make a very pleasing 
variety for an invalid to eat instead of 
rice. 

Ground Rice MilJc. — Boil together two 
table-spoonfuls of ground rice with a pint 
of milk. Sweeten it according to your 
laste, adding the juice of half a lemon. 
Let the whole boil half an hour over a 
moderate fire. Eat it warm. 

Compound Camomile Tea. — Twenty 
camomile flowers, half the thin peel of 
a lemon, four cloves : pour on them a 
coffee cup of boiling water, cover and let 
them stand all night. Strain the liquor 
in the morning. A wine glass full may 
be taken a little before breakfast. Dr. 
Maton always recommended this, with a 
teaspoonful of salvolatile for indigestion. 

Elder Flower Tea. — Infuse the dried 
flowers as common tea is made. A little 
acid with sugar will make the taste plea- 
sant. (To promote perspiration.) 



COOKERY FOE THU SICK. 



623 



Dandelion and Parsley Tea. — Wash 
and scrape six dandelion roots and six 
of parsley ; pour on them a pint of boil- 
ing water ; let it infuse three hours be- 
fore the fire. A little salt or saltpetre 
may be added. (Lady Cush prescribes 
this in dropsy ; it acts on the kidneys.) 

The flowers of any plant should be 
Jried in every case. 

Rice Water. — Boil a quarter of a pound 
of rice in three pints of water till soft as 
a paste, skimming it well. Strain the 
liquor, and sweeten it with sugar or 
honey. Apples or lemon peel may be 
boiled with the rice, or lemon juice add- 
ed. It is an excellent drink in cases of 
diarrhoea. 

Cream of Tartar Water. — Put a large 
spoonful of cream of tartar into a quart 
pitcher, with an ounce of gum arable and 
thin lemon peel. Pour boiling water on 
it, and let it stand some hours ; sweeten 
to taste. 

Imperial may be made with two ounces 
cream of tartar and the juice and peel of 
two lemons ; put in a jar with seven 
quarts of boiling water. When cold, 
half a pint of spirits may be added to 
keep it. Sweeten to taste and bottle it. 

Marsh Mallow Emulsion. — Slice the 
dried roots of marsh mallows, and boil four 
ounces with one and a half ounce chop- 
ped raisins in a quart of water. When 
it is boiled till there is a good sediment, 
strain it, and sweeten with water. Add 
water to taste. 

Linseed Emulsio7i. — One ounce lin- 
seed, two drachms liquorice root sliced 
and bruised ; a pint of boiling water. 
Let it stand four hours by the fire ; then 
strain it. 

Rennet Whey. — Infuse a piece of the 
skin in a httle boiling water, as for mak- 
ing cheese ; let it stand an hour or two ; 
then put a table-spoonful to three pints 
of new milk, warmed; cover with a 



cloth, and leave it until the curd is thick. 
Press out and use the whey. 

Iceland Moss Jelly. — Wash and bruise 
Iceland moss, and soak it all night ; dry 
and boil it — putting an ounce to a quart 
— till reduced to one-half the quantity of 
water ; strain it through a sieve. Take 
it with milk or wine, or flavored to taste. 
Carageen, or Irish moss jelly can be 
made the same way. 

Blancmange. — Take gelatine, or isin- 
glass, two ounces to one and a half 
pints water ; dissolve it, add a pint of 
milk, and strain it ; flavor and sweeten 
it, and let it boil up ; then turn it into a 
mould. 

Rice Blancmange. — Boil as much 
ground rice in a pint of milk as will 
make it thick enough to turn out of a 
mould, sweetening and flavoring it. A 
sauce can be added of milk, cream, or 
custard. 

Somersetshire Fromity. — Wash a quart 
of wheat, and boil it soft ; add by degrees 
two quarts new milk ; boil it till soft 
and mixed ; then add the yolks of a few 
eggs, well beaten, nutmeg, sugar, and a 
little ginger, with currants or chopped 
raisins, if approved for the invalid. 

Baked Pears. — Put into a pint of wa- 
ter some mace, cinnamon, and a few 
cloves ; boil them 5 add a pint of white 
wine, and the juice of two oranges, and 
sweeten with loaf sugar. Cut some 
baking pears into halves or quarters ; put 
them into the syrup, and then into a 
moderately heated oven, or a stewpan 
over the fii'e. Cover and cook them til] 
soft. Serve them with the liquor. They 
will keep in jars. Pears are excellent 
baked in molasses with a little water 
added. 

Millet Pudding. — Wash the millet ; 
simmer two table-spoonfuls with a little 
butter in a pint and a half of milk. Two 
or three beaten eggs may be added. The 



624 



THE PBAGTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



sugar and flavoring must be put in while 
the milk is boiling. Bake or boil it. 

Ground Rice Pudding. — One and a 
half pints new milk, with flavoring of 
coriander seeds, cinnamon, lemon-peel, 
and sugar. Boil a few minutes, strain it 
upon two ounces ground rice and boil 
twelve minutes. Add not quite an ounce 
of fresh butter, a little salt, and three 
beaten eggs. Bake in a dish or boil it. 

Barley flour may be substituted for 
the rice. 

Coifs Feet Pudding.— Ga.Ws feet 
minced, taking off" the brown and fixt, 
one and a half suet minced, yolks of six 
and whites of four eggs, the crumb of a 
roll, a little sugar, and a few chopped 
raisins. Add milk enough to moisten it, 
and boil it eight or nine hours. Serve 
with any sauce. 

Marrow Pudding. — One pint milk 
boiled with cinnamon and lemon-peel, 
with a. pinch of salt, quarter of a pound 
beef's marrow minced fine, slices of 
citron and orange peel, grated nutmeg, 
half a pound sponge cake, a little sugar, 
a glass of wine or brandy, and two eggs. 
Bake it. 

Dr. JopTison's Soup. — Cut into pieces a 
pound of lean veal, the same of beef, with 
water to cover them, in an earthen jar. 
Tie it down, add salt, and simmer in a 
water bath twenty-four hours. 

Essence of Meat., or Qlaize. — Put two 
pounds meat, of bird or animal, into a 
bottle, and that into a pan of water. Let 
it boil fifteen minutes. Strain the liquor 
that comes out. It will keep in a skin, 
and can be diluted for broths or gravies 
or soups. 

Marrow Toast. — Boiled marrow spread 
on toast with a little salt, is said to be 
good in allaying vomiting from irritation, 
after the operation of an emetic, or any 
other cause. 

Kedgeree. — Boil soft a tea-cupful of 
rice ; chop a boiled whitefish to pieces, 



take out the bones ; add the rice, with 
three ounces of butter. Stir it on the 
fire, and add salt and cayenne pepper, 
with chopped hard boiled eggs. Serve 
it diy and hot. 

Ground Rice Paste. — Boil a quarter 
of a pound in a little water, strain and 
beat it in a mortar with one egg, a small 
lump of butter and a pinch of salt ; 
mould the paste as for tarts, and bake 
sweetmeats in it. 

Arrow-Root Transparent Jelly. — Put 
a good teaspoonful of arrow-root into a 
basin, which mix smoothly with two 
spoonfuls of water, then add enough 
boiling water to make it about the con- 
sistency of starch, stirring all the time; 
pour it into a stewpan, and stir over the 
fire until it has boiled two minutes ; add 
a little cream, a small glass of wine, and 
a little sugar, and serve. 

Lemonade. — Pour one quart of boiling 
water on the rinds of six lemons, and let 
it stand for three or four hours ; add the 
juice of the lemons with three-quarters 
of a pound of sugar ; simmer it well and 
skim it ; then add another quart of boil- 
ing water. Either run it through a jelly- 
bag, or mix a glass of calf's-foot jelly, 
which will make it rich. 

Tamarinds, or Cranberry Juice, with 
double the quantity of water, also form 
a pleasant drink for an invalid, when ap- 
proaching to convalescence. 

Almond Water. — Blanch five ounces 
of sweet and two of bitter almonds, 
pound them in a mortar, adding a few 
drops of water occasionally, to prevent 
their becoming oily, set a pint of syrup 
to boil, and throw in the mashed almonds ; 
boil all together a minute, then set it at 
the corner to simmer for a quarter of an 
hour ; it is then ready to pass through a 
fine sieve for use. When required, add 
any quantity of cold water, according to 
taste or direction, to make it palatable. 

Lait de Poule, (French remedy for 



COOKERY FOR THE SICK. 



525 



colds.) — This may be made from any 
broth. Break a fresh egg. separate the 
white from tlie yolk, put the 3' oik in a 
basin, with a wine-glassful of good cream 
or milk, which mix well with a spoon ; 
have half a pint of broth boiling, which 
pour gradually over the egg and cream, 
mixing it (as you pour the broth) with a 
wooden spoon ; it is then ready, and 
ought to be taken when going to bed. 

Sweet Lait de Poiile. — This is also 
reckoned very good for a cold. Put two 
yolks of eggs into a cup. with two tea- 
spoonfuls of pounded sugar, part of the 
Tind of a fresh lemon grated ; beat them 
well together for ten minutes, then pour 
boiling water gradually over, keeping it 
stirred until the cup is nearly full. Drink 
this very hot when in bed. 

Sago Fruit Pudding. — A correspond- 
ent of the Cottage Gardener says : 

" Being forbidden the use of pastry, I 
use rice and sago as substitutes, in the fol- 
lowing manner : — Boil a teacupful of sago 
as thick as it can be made to boil without 
burning: put about five table-spoonfuls 
in the bottom of a quart basin ; then a 
layer of baked fruit of any sort (sweet- 
ened), and fill the basin to the brim with 
alternate layers of fruit and sago. Put it 
in a cool place for some little time, and 
it will become solid. It is best when 
made shortly after breakfast, and al- 
lowed to stand till wanted, to warm 
either in an oven, over boiling water, 
or before the fire with a plate turned 
over it, for dinner. The sago boils 
best when soaked in cold water for 
a few hours before using ; rice is used in 
exactly the same way. By wa^^ of change, 
I sometimes line a basin with the rice or 
sago, when very thick, and spread a thick 
layer of the same over a large dinner 
plate. When cold and stiff, I turn the 
basin over it, and with a knife cut the 
sago round the edge of the basin ; the 
parings I put in the bottom of the basin, 



and then fill with baked fruit, after 
which I put the sago in the plate on the 
top of the basin, to act as a cover. The 
smooth side must be upwards. Eaten 
with mock cream, made as follows, it is 
delicious : — Pour half a pint of boiling 
milk on a tcaspoonful of arrowroot, well 
mixed with a small quantity of milk ; 
stir the mixture well, and have the white 
of an egg well beaten, and when about half 
cold add it, and placing the whole over 
the fire, stir till it nearly boils, then 
stram for use." 

Tapioca MilTc. — Soak an ounce of tap- 
ioca in a pint of cold water for half an 
hour, pour off the water, and add a pint 
and a half of good milk ; boil slowly 
until the tapioca is dissolved, then add 
sugar, nutmeg, and a little white wine, if 
not prohibited by the medical attendant. 

Italian Cheese. — To a pint of scalded 
cream, whipped very smooth, add the 
juice of three lemons, and the rind of 
two — sugar to taste ; let it stand for half 
an hour, then whip till it is very thick, 
tie it in a thin cloth, or a tin with holes 
in it ; let it drain till next day, then turn 
out. 

Soyer^s Curry Ctistard. — Break three 
whole eggs in a basin, and beat them up, 
add a quart of milk, a little salt, a very 
little sugar, and two teaspoonfuls of 
curry paste ; bake in a dish or basin. 
This is very light and nutritious. 

For those who can afford it, roast a leg 
of mutton, and when nearly done put a 
hot dish under it, and with a sharp knife 
make several deep incisions in every part 
of it ; let it remain two minutes longer, 
that all the gravy may fall into the dish ; 
pour into a cup, take off the fat, and 
give to the patient as may be required ; 
the mutton will do for curry or hash for 
the family. This may be called gigot de 
mouton sacrifie ; but when life may al- 
most depend upon this extravagance as 
you may call it, the expense must not be 
thought of. 



526 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



Decoction of Iceland Liverwort. — An 
ounce of liverwort must be carefully freed 
from the moss, fragments of stalks, and 
particles of dirt, with which it is fre- 
quently mixed, by rubbing it between 
the hands in cold water. Then steep it 
for two hours, in such quantity of cold 
water as will completely cover it ; after 
which it must be bruised, pounded, or 
cut, and the steeping continued for three 
or four days longer, in a fresh quantity 
of boiling water, which when the steep- 
ing is finished, must be strained off by 
pressure. The liverwort is then to be 
put into a quart of fresh water, and kept 
boiling until the fluid be reduced two- 
thirds, or to a pint and a quarter. When 
strained and allowed to cool, it forms a 
thick mucilage, free from any bitter 
taste, and may be rendered very palat- 
able by the addition of sugar and lemon- 
juice ; or by white wine, in those cases 
which permit the use of wine. 

This decoction of liverwort is an ex- 
cellent demulcent nutriment, in consump- 
tion, dysentery, and in convalescence from 
acute diseases, and particularly after the 
whooping cough, in which case the bitter 
need not be completely removed, as it 
tends to invigorate the digestive organs. 
Vermicelli au Lait. — Boil a pint of 
milk, and when boiling, add suflBcient 
vermicelli to make it about the proper 
thickness ; it may be served quite plain 
if required, or seasoned with sugar. 



FOOD AND COOKEKY FOR 
CHILDREN. 

2'he kinds of food to be given to very 
young children should be of the simplest 
description : besides cow's milk, diluted 
with one-third part of water, arroic-root 
and milk ; pearl sago boiled in water till 
perfectly soft, and thinned with new 
milk ; rusks ; liscuit powder ; four pre- 



viously boiled like a pudding in a basin 
till it is formed into a hard ball, from 
which portions can be grated into milk, 
and boiled in it till it thickens the milk, 
are the chief ingredients used as food for 
infants. 

nice, harley, and farina gruels^ are 
also used with advantage ; and as a change 
in the diet of children is advisable when 
they are occasionally indisposed, these 
kinds of gruel may be found useful va- 
rieties in the food of children. 

Food which contains milk should never 
be warmed over and over again, as is 
sometimes done ; nor should it be suffer- 
ed to remain, when cold, in metal uten- 
sils ; if intended for future use, it should 
be put into earthen-ware basins, and set 
in a cold place ; but no food thus set by 
for another day should have milk put 
into it. 




Nurse Lamp, with Tea Kettle to keep children's 
food warm. 

The nutriment of children, after the 
completion of their first year and a hal^, 
it will be necessary to increase in so- 
lidity, and, if their appetite seems to de- 
mand it, in quantity also. Their teeth 
begin now to aid them in masticating 
food, their limbs become firmer, and 
carry their bodily exertions often to a 
great extent; the degree of exercise 
which healthy children voluntarily give 
themselves, stimulates the digestive or- 
gans, enabling them to receive and act 
upon more solid nutriment. Having pre- 
viously had animal food three or four 
times a week, children may, in the second 
year of their lives, safely eat it once 



every day — meats being chosen for them 
that are tender and nutritious. Eoast 
heef; mutton^ either boiled, roasted, or 
broiled ; chickens, some kinds of Jlsh, 
well-boiled xegeta'bles, such as IrocoU, 
turuijjs, potatoes (the latter are best for 
them when mashed with hot milk and a 
little salt) ; simple compounds of ee;g and 
milk ; fruits, baked or boiled ; hread well 
made and baked, with small portions of 
hutter ; these, with milk for breakfast 
and supper, with water as beverage, are 
the chief articles of wholesome food for 
children as long as they continue under 
nursery management. 

The species of food we would not give 
them consists of salted meats (beef, pork, 
or bacon) ; of rich stews, ragouts, and 
soups ; of fried fish, of pastry and con- 
fectionery generally ; of cheese ; and of 
beverages, tea, coffee, beer, and wine. Of 
the two last mentioned, beer and wine, 
we may remark that, in cases of delicate 
health, they may be advantageously al- 
lowed ; but they should always be given 
under medical direction, for the stimulus 
of fermented or spirituous liquors is not 
in every case of debility beneficial ; some- 
times the reverse ; neither ought children 
to be allowed to drink much at a time of 
any liquid, however mild and innocent it 
may be. Too much liquid has a tendency 
to create flatulency, and to distend the 
bowels. It has been said that parents 
accustoming their children to drink 
water only, bestow a fortune upon them 
of the value of which they will be sensi- 
ble all the days of their life. 

Children's meat should be minced as 
small as possible. If too much trouble 
is left to their feeble power of mastica- 
ting, they will shun it by swallowing 
their food unmasticated. For children 
whose digestion is weak, it may even be 
desirable to have their meat pounded. 

French Pap. — Put a table-spoonful of 
flour into a pap saucepan, to which add 
by degrees two gills of milk, mixing it 



into a very smooth batter with a wooden 
spoon ; place the saucepan upon the fire, 
let it boil ten minutes, keeping it stirred 
the whole time, or it is liable to burn or 
become brown ; then add about half an 
ounce of sugar and a little salt, put it 
into a basin, and it is ready for use. A 
little butter is also very good in it. It 
may be made with dry rusk or cracker, 
scalded merely in water, and beaten to a 
pulp with a little sugar. 

Infanfs Food. — Take a pound of the 
best flour, tie it very tightly in a strong 
cloth, and put it into a pan of boiling 
water (in which put a plate to prevent 
the cloth sticking to the bottom of the 
pan). Boil it for three hours without al- 
lowing it to go off the boil — when coldish 
untie the cloth, and scrape off the outside 
of the ball: when to be used, grate down 
the quantity required and break it with 
cold water ; boil four or five minutes 
only, and sweeten to the taste. Flour 
prepared in this way is confidently re- 
commended by an experienced sick nurse 
as a soft and nutritious food for the 
youngest infant, and will keep for a 
month or more in its hard compact state. 
Milk may be added when about to be 
eaten, if wished. 

Semoulina. — Semoulina is very delicate 
and glutinous ; it is good in any kind of 
broth or milk for invalids or children, of 
easy digestion, and having also the ad- 
vantage of being tolerably cheap and 
quickly cooked. 

Arrowroot. — When broth is boiling, 
put two teaspoonfuls of arrowroot into 
a cup, which mix smoothly with a gill 
of cold broth, or half ditto of water ; then 
pour it into your boiling broth, which 
keep stirring with a spoon ; let it simmer 
ten minutes, and it is ready for use. 

Cakes for Children. — Sugar and egg, 
browned before the fire, or dropped 
as fritters into a hot frying-pan, with- 
out fat, will make them a nourishing 
delicacy. 



528 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSKKEEPEE. 



Rice Pudding with Fruit. — In a pint 
of new milk put t«'o large spoonfuls of 
rice well washed ; then add two apples, 
pared and quartered, or a few currants 
or raisins. Simmer slowly till the rice 
is very soft, then add one egg, beaten, 
to bind it. Serve with cream and sugar. 

To prepare Fruit for Gliildren — A far 
more wholesome way than in pies or pud- 
dings, is to put apples sliced, or plums, 
currants, gooseberries, &c., into a stone 
jar, and sprinkle among them as much 
sugar as necessary. Set the jar in an 
oven or on a hearth, with a teacupful of 
water to prevent the fruit from burning; 
or put the jar into a saucepan of water 
till its contents be perfectly done. Slices 
of bread or some rice may be put into 
the jar, to eat with the fruit. 

Rice and ApjAes. — Core as many nice 
apples as will fill the dish ; boil them in 
light syrup ; prepare a quarter of a pound 
of rice in milk, with sugar and salt ; put 
some of the rice in the dish, and put in 
the apples, and fill up the intervals with 
rice, and bake it in the oven till it is a 
fine color. 

A nice A^iple Cahe for Children. — 
Grate some stale bread, and slice about 
double the quantity of apples ; butter a 
mould, and line it with sugar paste, and 
strew in some crumbs, mixed with a 
little sugar ; then lay in apples with a 
few bits of butter over them, and so con- 
tinue till the dish is full ; cover it with 
crumbs, or prepared rice ; season with 
cinnamon and sugar. Bake it well 
Fruits that have seeds are much healthier 
than stone fruits. But all fruits are 
better, for very young children, if baked 
or cooked in some manner, und eaten with 
bread. The French always eat bread 
with raw fruit. Apples and winter pears 
are very excellent food for children, in- 
deed, for almost any person in health ; 
but best when eaten at breakfast or din- 
ner. If taken late in the evening fruit 



often proves injurious. The old saying — 
apples are gold in the morning.^ silver at 
noon^i and lead at night, is pi'ctty near 
the truth. Both apples and pears are 
often good and nutritious when baked 
or stewed, for those delicate constitutions 
that cannot bear raw fruit. Much of the 
fruit gathered when unripe, might be 
rendered fit for food by preserving it in 
sugar. 

Ri2:>e Currants are excellent food for 
children. Mash the fruit, sprinkle with 
sugar, and with good bread let them eat 
of this fruit freely. 

BlacTcberry Jam. — Gather the fruit in 
dry weather ; allow half a pound of good 
brown sugar to every pound of fruit ; 
boil the whole together gently for an 
hour, or till the blackberries are soft, 
stirring and mashing them well. Pre- 
serve it like any other jam, and it will be 
found very useful in families, particularly 
for children — regulating their bowels, and 
enabling you to dispense with cathartics. 
It may be spread on bread, or on pud- 
dings, instead of butter : and even when 
the blackberries are bought it is cheaper 
than butter. In the country every fiimily 
should preserve, at least, half a peck of 
blackberries. 

Bread and Milh. — Cut about two 
ounces of any white bread into small thin 
slices, and put them into a small basin or 
a large breakfast cup. In a little saucepan 
(only used for that purpose) have half ? 
pint of milk ; when upon the point of 
boiling, pour over the bread ; cover over 
the cup five minutes, and it is ready for 
use. 

Porridge. — When children are delicate, 
porridge is often preferable to bread and 
milk. Put two table-spoonfuls of grits 
or oatmeal in the milk saucepan, which 
moisten with half a pint of milk ; let it 
boil ten minutes, keeping well stirred, 
add a small piece of butter and a little 
sugar, and it is ready for use. 



CHILDREN S FOOD. 



529 



Meats for CMldi'en. — Mutton, lamb, 
and poultry, are the best. Birds and 
the white meat of fowls, are the most 
delicate food of this kind that can be 
given. These meats should be slowly 
cooked, and no gravy, if made rich with 
butter, should be eaten by a young 
child. Never give children hard, tough, 
half cooked meats, of any kind. 

Vegetables for Children, Eggs, &c. — 
Their rice ought to be cooked in no more 
water than is necessary to swell it ; their 
apples roasted, or stewed with no more 
water than is necessary to steam them ; 
their vegetables so well cooked as to 
make them require little butter, and less 
digestion ; their eggs boiled slow and 
soft. The boiling of their milk ought to 
be directed by the state of their bowels : 
if flatulent or bilious, a very little curry- 
powder may be given in their vegetables 
with good effect — such as turmeric and 
the warm seeds (not hot peppers), are 
particularly useful in such cases. 

Potatoes and Peas. — Potatoes, partic- 
ularly some kinds, are not easily digested 
by children ; but this is easily remedied 
by mashing them very fine, and seasoning 
them with sugar and a little milk. When 
peas are dressed for children, let them be 
seasoned with mint and sugar, which 
will take off the flatulency. If they are 
old, let them be pulped, as the skins are 
perfectly indigestible by children's or 
weak stomachs. Never give them vege- 
tables less stewed than would pulp 
through a colander. 

Children^ Diet for the day {Soyer). — 
Bread and milk for breakfast at eight ; 
the dinner at one, as follows throughout 
the week : roast mutton and apple pud- 
ding ; roast beef and currant pudding, 
baked apples ; boiled mutton with tur- 
nips, after which rice or vermicelli pud- 
ding ; occasionally with beef, suet dump- 
lings, plain and with currants in them, 
or pease pudding ; or if unwell, a little 



veal or chicken-broth, or beef-tea. When 
in business, the first three years the chil- 
dren used to dine with us at one, at a 
side-table with their nurse. They then 
had a little plain meat, cut small in their 
plates, with potatoes, pieces of bread, and 
gravy, after which, three times a week, 
plain rice, bread, or other plain pudding, 
or rhubarb or apple tart ; and, at five 
o'clock, their bread and milk again, pre- 
vious to going to bed. 

But 1 should recommend for nursery- 
maid and all : 

First, about two pounds of mutton, 
well cooked, but with the real gravy of the 
meat in it, which will require about one 
hour before a moderate fire ; dredge it ten 
minutes before being done ; when taken 
up and in the dish, sprinkle a little salt 
over the meat, and pour over three or 
four spoonfuls of hot water to make a 
little light gravy. 

Or, a few slices of roast beef or a 
small piece roasted on purpose; after 
which a very plain currant pudding ; or, 
occasionally, a little pickled pork, with 
pease pudding ; or roast pork, with baked 
apples ; and now and then a little salt 
beef, but very well boiled, with suet 
dumplings ; and occasionallj'-, for change, 
either bread, vermicelli, or tapioca pud- 
dings; in case of illness, and with the 
approbation of the doctor, veal, mutton, 
or chicken-broth, sago, gruel, panada, &c. 



SAYOEY DISHES FOR 
BREAKFAST. 

Orillades. — Perhaps there is no better 
grill for breakfast than a cold llade-hone 
of mutton, off which the greater part of 
the meat has been already cut. The re- 
maining parts should then be scored, and 
the gashes filled with a mixture of mus- 
tard, cayenne, common pepper, and salt, 
as for a devil ; it should then be put upon 



530 



THE rRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



the gridiron, and well browned, but not 
burnt. It may be sent to table dry, 
■without any sauce, or served with gravy 
mixed with capers. 

The bones of cold fowl of all kinds are 
also frequently brought thus to break- 
fast. 

Broiled CMcken. — Split it open, pepper 
it ordy on the inside, broil and serve it 
with a very litt'e butter, and accom- 
panied with broiled mushrooms. 

Kahol>s. — Put thin slices of well-sea- 
soned kidney and bacon, with beef or 
mutton also if you please, upon skewers. 
Have ready fine bread-crumbs, with a 
slight grating of lemon, brush them over 
with egg, and roll them into the crumbs. 
Hang up the skewers to roast, and put a 
slice of toast under to secure the gravy : 
when served, carefully remove the skew- 
ers, and place the " kabobs " on the 
toast ; but, if only a quantity sufHcient 
to help one person be put on each skew- 
er, then do not remove them. 

If. instead of meat, an oyster be put 
between each slice of bacon and kidney, 
it will be found very superior. 

Dried Salmon is likewise a good re- 
lish ; and fresh mackerel, split open 
and broiled. 

Germain Toast. — Take the remainder 
of any fricassee or ragoflt ; any quantity 
will do ; chop it fine, add a little chop- 
ped parsley, and a little bit of shalot or 
chive : mix it up -with one or two eggs 
beaten, according to the quantity. Put 
the whole with its gravy into a stewpan, 
and let it reduce and thicken on the fire. 
Let it remain until it be cold, then cut 
pieces of bread, toast them : lay the mix- 
ture thickly upon them. Boil an egg 
hard, cut it into small pieces, and stick 
them on the top ; brush the whole with 
egg beaten up, sift bread-crumbs over, 
and bake them in the oven ; squeeze a 
little lemon-juice on the top. This makes 
also a good corner dish for dinner. 



YegetaMe Toast. — Take any stewed 
vegetable, and make it into a puree. Add 
a little more seasoning, mix it up with 
the yolk of an egg, and, if too thin, re- 
duce and thicken it over the fire, then 
spread it upon toast, brush it over with 
beaten eggs, and bread-crumbs or vermi- 
celli, and fry or bake them. 

Anchovy Toast. — Make a well-buttered 
toast of })rown hread^ if you can get it ; 
scale and bone a proper number of an- 
chovies, with little or no washing ; cut 
them into broad slices, and place them 
upon the toast, seasoning it with mus- 
tard, without pepper. 

Sausage Toast. — Fry two or three sau- 
sages ; when quite hot, strip off the- 
skins, and spread the meat upon the 
toast buttered with salt butter ; season 
it with a little pepper and mustard. It 
will be improved by a grating of old 
cheese. 

Kidney Toast. — Take a cold veal kid- 
ney, with a part of the fat, cut it into 
very small pieces ; pound the fat in a 
mortar with a little salt, white pepper 
and an onion previously boiled. Bind al 
together with the beaten whites of eggs. 
Heap it upon toast ; cover the whole 
with the yolks beaten ; dredge with 
bread-crumbs, and bake in the oven. 

Ham Toast. — Grate or pound the cold 
ham ; toast and butter a slice of bread ; 
mix the ham with the yolk of an egg and 
a little cream, until it is thick and rich ; 
warm it over the fire, and ser-ve it very 
hot upon the toast. Tongue may be em- 
ployed in the same way. 

Scotch Woodcock. — Toast and butter 
three or four slices of bread on both 
sides ; take nine or ten anchovies 
washed, scraped, and chopped fine, and 
put them between the slices of bread. 
Beat the yolks of four eggs in half a pint 
of cream, and set it on the fire to thicken, 
lut not to loil. Then pour it over the 
toast, and send it to table as hot as pos- 
sible. 



BREAKFAST DISHES. 



531 



Sheeji^s Humps and Kidneys. — "Boil the 
rumps in gravy, and lard the kidneys 
with bacon ; set them, along with the 
rumps, before the fire in a small tin 
oven, rubbing them at the same time 
with yolk of egg and a little cayenne 
and nutmeg. When of a light brown, 
dish them up, either dry or with any 
pungent sauce, and garnish them with 
parsley. 

Bacon Broiled. — The streaked part of 
a thick flank of bacon is to be preferred ; 
cut nice slices, not above a quarter of an 
inch thick, take off the rind, put to broil 
on the gridiron over a clear fire ; turn it 
three or four times in the space of five 
minutes. Serve it very hot. If any re- 
main after dinner of boiled bacon, it is 
very good broiled or fried for next day's 
breakfast. Broiled and boiled bacon has 
been highly recommended to the dys- 
peptic. 

Bcvih of Biscuits. — Butter them on 
both sides ; sprinkle cayenne pepper on 
the top, and send them to be grilled 
This may be varied by the addition of 
chopped anchovies, or the essence, or 
diavolo paste. 

Or : — Make a slice of cheese into a 
paste with made mustard, and lay it upon 
one side. 

A Dry Devil. — Take the liver, gizzard, 
drumstick, and sidebones of a fowl or 
turkey ; score them ; laj' on made mus- 
tard very thickly, and add a quantity of 
cayenne pepper and salt, and broil them. 

A Wet Devil. — Take any part of a tur- 
key, goose, or fowl, cover it with mus- 
tard, Chetney, diavolo paste, or any other 
piquant condiment ; put a dessert spoon- 
ful of cayenne pepper, one of pounded 
white sugar, the juice of a lemon, a glass 
of wine, and a glass of ketchup, to a tea- 
cupful of gravy ; heat them together, 
pour over the devilled fowl, and send up 
very hot. 

A little cold fresh butter will cool the 



mouth, should the grill prove too power- 
ful. 

Devilled, Game. — Split a woodcock, a 
snipe, a wild duck, or any othei- game 
that is undone. To a tea^^poonful of salt 
add a dessert spoonful of cayenne pepper 
with a tablespoonful of curry-powder, 
and wet the whole with French mustard. 
Cover the birds both inside and out with 
this mixture. Take out the brains when 
the head is split, and, if a woodcock, add 
the trail ; make them into a paste with 
the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, half a 
blade of pounded mace, a saltspoonful ot 
grated lemon-peel, and season it with es- 
sence of anchovies, ketchup, or other 
sauce ; then add a glass of wine, a tca- 
spoquful of cayenne pepper, a dessert- 
spoonful of pounded white sugar, and the 
juice of a lemon or orange. Roll a bit of 
butter, the size of a walnut, in flour ; 
put the birds and the sauce into a metal 
dish over a lamp, co^■er it close, shake 
it about occasionally, and when it has 
stewed until the greater part of the sauce 
has been imbibed, serve it round. The 
legs of fowls, geese, and turkeys, may be 
devilled the same way. 

Mustard. — No savory things are ever 
brought to table without this indispensa- 
ble accompaniment. 

In making it, pure water is most gene- 
rally used, with a pinch of silt and sugar, 
though both are frequently omitted : but 
a much better mode for preserving it, as 
well as adding to it a good flavor, is to 
make it of water in which horseradish 
has been boiled. This costs no trouble ; 
for if the horseradish be scraped and put 
in a teacup with boiling water poured 
upon it, and covered, the infusion will be 
strong enough in httle moi-e than half 
an hour. 

The Parisian mustard, known as mou~ 
tarde de maille^ is however much in 
vogue among gastronomists, as possess- 
ing a finer pungency of flavor, and may 



532 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



be imitated by mixing up the flour and a 

little fine salt with salad oil, so as to form 
a thick paste, then diluting it to a certain 
degree with equal quantities of the vine- 
gars of horseradish, tarragon, chili, and 
garlic ; or sufficient of each to please the 
palate. Cayenne should never be used, 
and even chili vinegar but simringly. 

Sandwiches require more care than is 
usually bestowed on them, for this rea- 
son, that every one believes he can cut 
sandwiches. Where any quantity is re- 
quired the bread should be made on pur- 
pose, and the baker should be desired to 
bake it in tins, and either add a little 
butter to it or raise it well before it is 
put into the tins, so that it should not be 
full of holes, as in that case too much but- 
ter is used, and the sandwich becomes 
disagreeable from being greasy. Cut the 
bread moderately thin, butter it very 
slightly indeed, lay the meat cut thin, 
season it with salt, pepper, and mustard, 
as may be required : cover with a second 
sUce of bread, trim the edges, put them 
one on the other, and cover with a damp 
cloth until wanted. 

Where tongue is used it should be 
boiled the day before, and, when tho- 
roughly done, pressed in the mould in 
which the bread is to be baked. 

Chickens boned, and farced with a 
small quantity of farce of veal and ham, 
and treated in the same way, will make 
excellent sandwiches. 

Soyer recommends for breakfast also — 
ScraniMed Eggs. — Break three eggs 
into a small stewpan, add a saltspoonful 
of salt, a quarter of that quantity of pep- 
per, and two ounces of fresh butter, (the 
fresher the better ;) set the stewpan over 
a moderate fire, and stir the eggs round 
with a wooden spoon, being careful to 
keep every particle in motion, until the 
whole has become a smooth and delicate 
thickish substance ; have ready a con- 
venient-sized crisp piece of toast, pour 



the eggs upon it, and serve immediately. 
Herring may be laid between the eggs 
and toast. 

Eggs au Beurre (a new Method.) — 
Let the eggs boil six minutes, then take 
them out, dip them for two seconds in 
cold water, crack and peel off the shells, 
and lay them in a hot plate ; cut each egg 
in halves lengthwise, spread a little fresh 
butter, and sprinkle a little salt over the 
interior, and eat them very hot. 

The following articles for Breakfasts 
are popxilar in Spring and Summer : — 
Veal Cutlets — Stewed or Fried Clams — 
Cold Boiled Ham or Tongue — Clam 
Fritters — Broiled Shad — Broiled and 
Fried Fish — Stewed or Broiled Chickens 
— Minced Veal— Pic'<led Salmon — Fried 
Sweet Potatoes — Fried Egg Plant — 
Green Corn Fritters — Stewed Pigeons — 
Broiled or Sliced Raw Tomatoes — Hash- 
balls — Cucumbers — Pepper Grass — 
Cresses — Game Birds — Eggs — Omelets 
of all kinds — Tongue or Ham Toast — 
Rice Cakes — Batter Cakes — Ripe Fruits. 
Jam, marmalade and honey are appro- 
priate. 

In Winter — Additional. — Stewed Pi- 
geons with Mushrooms — Stewed or Fried 
Oysters — Broiled and Stewed Fowl — 
Fried Egg Plant — Pork Cheese — Hashed 
Poultry — Deviled Gizzards — Steaks — 
Chops — Liver Pudding — Fried Pigs' Feet 
— Venison Steaks — Venison Pasty — 
Fried Smelts — Minced Codfish — Fish 
Cakes — Sausages — Hot Cakes of all 
kinds, Buckwheat and Flannel Cakes 
especially ; also Hominy and Mush. 

A celebrated cook says : — When I was 
first married and commencing business, 
our means were limited: the following 
was our system of living : — 

Sunday^ Dinner. — Roast Beef, Po- 
tatoes, Greens, and Yorkshire Pudding. 

Monday. — Hashed Beef, Potatoes, and 
Bread Pudding. 

Tuesday. — Broiled Beef and Bones, 
Vegetables and Apple Pudding. 



BILLS OF FAKE. 



633 



Wednesday. — Fish, if cheap, Chops, 
Vegetables, Pancakes. 

Thursday. — Boiled Pork, Pea Pud- 
ding, Greens, and Rice Pudding. 

Friday. — Pea Soup, remains of Pork, 
and Baked Batter Pudding. 

Saturday. — Stewed Steak with Suet 
Dumpling, and Rice in a mould with 
sauce. 

Dinner for Dinner Party. — Soup- 
Fish— Saddle of Mutton— Cutlets Main- 
tenon — Greens — Potatoes- Sweet Breads 
— White Sauce — Cranberry Jellj^ — 
Pickles — Turkey Roast — Celery Sauce — 
Game Course — ^Partridges — Wild Ducks 
French Salad — Jelly of Fruit — Cheese 
Cakes — Meringues a la Crcme — Frozen 
Plum Pudding — Dessert. 

'id. For a Party of Twenty Persons, — 
Soups — Two Dishes of Fish — Haunch of 
Mutton — Boiled Capons — Fricandeau of 
Veal— Curry of Fowl— Fillets of Beef 
with Tomato Sauce — Oyster Patties — 
Croquettes of Veal or Fowl — Cutlets Sou- 
bise — Wild Ducks — Guinea Fowl Larded 
— Scolloped Oysters — Charlotte Russe — 
Apple with Rice — Meringues — Punch 
Jelly — Turban — Cheese Souffle— Dessert. 
For Supper Parties. — Cold Roast 
Fowls — Lobster Salad — Chicken Salad 
— Mayonnaises of Fowls — Ham — Tongue 
cut in slices, garnished with Parsley and 
Aspic Jelly— Grouse Pie — Boned Turkey 

— Terrapins Game Birds Oysters 

Stewed, Fried — Raised Pastry — Jellies — 
Ice Creams — Pyramids of Candied Fruits 
— Cakes — Compotes of Fruits — Confec- 
tionery, &c. 

Children'' s Party. Sandwiches 

Dishes of Lamb — Ham — Beef — Tongue 
— Fowls — Pastry — Custard — Jellies — 
Bonbons. 

Another (Soyer.) — A Roast Turkej^ — 
Two Dishes of Fowls — One Ham — Two 
Pigeon Pies — One Piece of Boiled Beef 
— ^Four Lobsters — Four Salads — Four 
Jellies — Four Tarts — Four of Preserved 
34 



Fruit, &c. — Four of Pastry, with about 
twelve of various kinds of Fruit, &c. 

SPRING. 

Breakfast. — -Tea Cocoa Flannel 

Cakes — Meat Cakes — Twist Bread — Li- 
ver Puddings — Sausages. 

Dinner. — Pcpperpot — White Pota- 
toes — Lima Beans — Sweet Potatoes — 
Stewed Oysters — Stewed Chickens. 

Breakfast. — Tea — Coffee — Rye Batter 
Cakes — Boiled Eggs — Cold Bread — 
Sliced Ham — Beefsteak. 

Dinner. — Vermicelli Soup — White Po- 
tatoes — Tongue — Hominy — Fried Oys- 
ters — Boiled Fowls. 

Dinner. — Soup — Potatoes — Ruta Baga 
Turn ips — Asparagus— Min t Sauce— Roast 
Lamb. 

Dinner. — Fish — Potatoes — Salad- 
Roast Veal — Egg Sauce — Greens. 

SUMMER. 

Dinner. — Ochra Soup — Squashes — 
Fried Chickens — Green Corn — Potatoes 
— Salad — Buttered Beets — Beef Steak. 

Breahfast. — Cold Bread — Dry Toast — 
Clam Fritters — Minced Veal — Cream 
Cheese. 

Dinner. — Soup — Egg Sauce — Cel- 
ery Sauce — Potatoes — String Beans — 
Tongue — Squashes — Boiled Fowls. 

Dinner. — Lamb Soup — Green Peas 

— Potatoes Asparagus Spinach and 

Eggs — Veal — Cutlets. 

Dinner. — Green Pea Porridge — Pota- 
toes — French Beans — Cucumbers — Cur- 
rant Jelly — Pickles — Roast Lamb. 

Dinner. — Soup — Squashes — Buttered 
Beets — Green Corn — Roast Veal. 

Dinner. — Soup — Fish — Potatoes — 
String Beans — Fried Squashes — Com 
Fritters — Fried Chickens. 



534 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



WINTER. 

Dinner. — Beef Soup Sweet Po- 
tatoes— ^-Turnips — Cranberry Sauce — 
White Potatoes — Leg of Pork Stuffed and 
Roasted. 

Breakfast. — Tea — Coffee — Indian Bat- 
ter Cakes— Rolls— Beef Hash— Fried Li- 
ver — Pork Steaks. 

Dinner. — Veal Soup — Turnips — Bak- 
ed Sweet Potatoes — Mashed Potatoes — 
Horse Radish — Roast Beef. 

Dinner. — Soup — Fish — Pickled Beets 
— Sweet Potatoes — White Potatoes — 
Baked Beans — Roast Ducks. 

Dinner. — Calves' Head Soup — White 
Potatoes — Hominy — Turnips — Pickles — 
Fillet of Veal Stuffed and Roasted. 

Dinner. — Soup — Cranberry Sauce — 
— Ham — Fried Oysters — White Potatoes 
— Sweet Potatoes — Roast Turkey. 

Dinner. — Soup — Roast Goose — Apple 
Sauce — Onion Sauce — Potatoes — Sweet 
Potatoes — Tongue— Celery— Stewed Oys- 
ters. 

Dinner. — Calves' Head Soup Po- 
tatoes — Beets — S tewed Oysters — Tur- 
nips — Sweet Potatoes — Onion Sauce — 
Boiled Turkey. 

D inner. — Soup — F ish — C urrant Jelly 
— Potatoes — Turnips — Roast Mutton. 

Dinner. — Beef Soup — Smoked Pig's 
Head with Cabbage — Potatoes — Turnips 
— Macaroni — Beets — Celery — Sweet Po- 
tatoes — Roast Mutton — Batter Pudding 
Baked — Brandy Peaches — Pain Perdu — 
Floating Island. 

Dinner. — Vegetable Soup — Roast Pig 
— Potatoes — Onions — Oyster Pie — Tur- 
nips — Rice — Boiled Turkey — Vermicelli 
Pudding — Cocoanut Custard — Tipsy 
Cake — Indian Pudding. 

Dinner. — Clam Soup — Chowder — 
Roast Fowls — Beets — Mangoes — Toma- 



toes — Turnips — Maccaroni — Potatoes — 
Lamb Pot Pie — Plum Pudding— Rice in a 
mould with custard — Wine Sauce — 
Cracker Pie. 

Dinner. — Soup— Roast Beef — Celery — 
Macaroni — Turnips — Sweet Potatoes — 
Potatoes — Fricasseed Chickens — Boiled 
Tongue — Boiled Flour Pudding — Tart- 
lets — Compote of Peaches. 

Dinner. — Soup a la Julienne — Roast 
Beef — Green Corn — Mangoes — Tomatoes 
— Potatoes — Beets — Squashes — Pilau of 
Chickens — Custard Pie — Rice Flummery 
— Baked Pears — Green Corn Pudding. 

Dinner. — Mullagatawny Soup — Roast 
Lamb — Mint Sauce — Macaroni — Po- 
tatoes — Boiled Tongue — Tomatoes — Rice 
— Roast Ducks — Bread Pudding — Jellies 
—Slip— Cherry Tartlets. 

Dinner. — Oyster Soup — A la mode 
Beef — Turnips — Sweet Potatoes — Beets 
— Potatoes — Rice— Baked Pork and Beans 
— Custards — Suet Pudding — Sauce — Ap- 
ple Fritters — Mince Pie. 

Dinner. Vermicelli Soup 'Boiled 

Calfs Head — Turnips — Spare Rib — Po- 
tatoes — Beets — Rice — Roast Turkey — 

Apple Dumpling — Flapjacks Spanish 

Cream — Pumpkin Pie. 

Dinner. — Soup — Chickens— Egg Sauce 
— Potatoes — Beans — Tomatoes — Ham — 

Green Corn^ Cocoanut Pie Boiled 

Custards Sponge Cake — ^Tapioca Pud- 
ding. 

Dinner. — Soup — Boiled Salmon — ^Leg 
of Mutton — Caper Sauce — Tomatoes — 

Squashes Green Corn Fried Egg 

Plant — Beans — Tongue — Rice Pudding 
— Slip — Farina Mould — Peach Pie. 

Note. — The Cuts of Cooking Utensils in the Se- 
cond Part were furnished to the Publishers by Mr. 
Stephen Wm. Smith, whose Housekeeping Fur- 
niture Ware Rooms are at 534 Broadway, neai 
Spring Street, New York. 



PART THIRD. 

PERFUMERY AND THE TOILET, 

THE FAMILY MEDICAL GUIDE, 

MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



I 



PERFUMERY AND THE TOILET. 



The perfumes for the handkerchief, as 
found in the shops of Paris and London, 
are either simple or compound ; the for- 
mer are called extracts, extraits, esprits, 
or essences, and the latter honguets and 
nosegays, which are mixtures of the ex- 
tracts so compounded in quantity that 
no one flower or odor can be discovered 
as predominating over another. Per- 
fumes are procured by the processes 
of maceration, absorption, and distilla- 
tion. 

In making pomade, a certain quantity 
of purified mutton or deer suet is put 
into a clean metal or porcelain pan, this 
being melted by a steam heat ; the kind 
of flowers required for the odor wanted 
are carefully picked and put into the 
liquid fat, and allowed to remain from 
twelve to forty-eight hours ; the fat has 
a particular afiinity or attraction for the 
oil of flowers, and thus, as it were, draws 
it out of them, and becomes itself, by 
their aid, highly perfumed ; the fat is 
strained from the spent flowers, and 
fresh are added four or five tiroes over, 
till the pomade is of the required 
strength. For perfumed oils the same 
operation is followed ; but, in lieu of 
suet, fine olive oil or oil of ben, derived 
from the ben nuts of the Levant, is used, 
and the same results are obtained. 

The odors of some flowers are so deli- 
cate and volatile, that heat would spoil 
them ; the process of absorption or en- 



fleurage is, therefore, conducted cold, 
thus : — Square frames, about three inches 
deep, with a glass bottom, say two feet 
wide and three feet long, are procured ; 
over the glass a layer of fat is spread, 
about half an inch thick, with a kind of 
plaster knife ; into this the flower buds 
are stuck, cup downwards, and ranged 
completely over it, and there left from 
twelve to seventy-two hours. 

Almond perfume is obtained from the 
bitter almonds, and exists in the skin or 
pellicle that covers the seed after it is 
shelled. The essential oil of almonds 
enters into combination with soap, cold 
cream, and many other materials pre- 
pared by the perfumer. 




Almond. 

A beautiful imitation of Essence of 
white Lilac may be compounded thus : 
One pint spirituous extract from 



538 



TITB PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



tubereuse pomade ; one quarter of a pint 
spirituous extract of orange-flower po- 
made ; three drops of otto of almonds ; 
half an ounce extract of civet. 

The civet is onl}^ used to give per- 
manence to the perfume of the hand- 
kerchief 

Benzoin^ also called Benjamin. — This 
is a very useful substance to perfumers. It 
exudes from the Styrax 'benzoin by wound- 
ing the tree, and drying, becomes a hard 
gum-resin. It is principally imported 
from Borneo, Java, Sumatra, and Siam. 




styrax Benzoin. 

Bay. — Oil of sweet Bay, also termed es- 
sential oil of laurel-berries, is a very 
fragrant substance, procured by dis- 
tillation from the berries of the bay 
laurel. 

Bergamot. — This most useful perfume 
is procured from the Citrus Bergamia^ 
by expression from the peel of the fruit. 
Mixed with rectified spirit in the pro- 
portions of about four ounces of bergamot 
to a gallon, it forms what is called " ex- 
tract of bergamot," and in this state is 
used for the handkerchief. 

Geranium {Pelargonium odoratis- 
simum, rose-leaf geranium). — The leaves 
of this plant yield by distillation a very 
agreeable rosy-smelling oil, so much re- 
Bembling real otto of rose, that it is used 



very extensively for the adulteration of 
that valuable oil, and is grown very 
largely for that express purpose. When 
dissolved in rectified spirit, in the pro- 
portion of about six ounces to the gallon, 
it forms the " extract of rose leaf gera- 
nium" of the shops. 

Heliotrope. — Either by maceration or 
enfleurage with clarified fat, we may ob- 
tain this fine odor from the flowers of 
the Heliotrope Beruvianum or B. grancli 
florum. For a small trial, which can be 
managed by any person having the run 
of a garden, we will say, procure an or- 
dinary glue-pot now in common use, 
which melts the material by the boiling 
of water. At the season when the flowers 
are in bloom, obtain half a pound of fine 
mutton suet, melt the suet and strain it 
through a close hair-sieve, allow the 
liquefied fat, as it falls from the sieve, to 
drop into cold spring water 5 this opera- 
tion granulates and washes the blood and 
membrane from it. In order to start 
with a perfectly inodorous grease, the 
melting and granulation process may be 
repeated three or four times ; finally, re- 
melt the fat and cast it into a pan to 
free it from adhering water. 

Now put the clarified suet into the 
macerating pot, and place it in such a 
position near the fire of the greenhouse 
or elsewhere, that will keep it warm 
enough to be liquid ; into the fat throw 
as many flowers as ^oxa can, and there 
let them remain for twenty-four hours ; 
at this time strain the fat from the spent 
flowers, ^nd add fresh ones; repeat this 
operation for a week : we suppose at the 
last straining the fat will have become 
very highly perfumed, and when cold may 
be justly termed Bomade d la Helio- 
trope. 

The cold pomade being chopped up like 
suet for a pudding, is now to be put into 
a wide-mouthed bottle, covered with 
spirits as highly rectified as can be ob- 



PERFUMERY. 



539 



tained, and left to digest for a week or 
more ; the spirit then strained off will be 
highly perfumed : in reality it will be ex- 
tract of Heliotrope, a delightful perfume 
for the handkerchief. The rationale of the 
operation is simple enough : the fat body 
has a strong affinity or attraction for the 
odorous body, or essential oil of the 
flowers, and it therefore absorbs it by 
contact, and becomes itself perfumed. In 
the second operation, the spirit has a 
much greater attraction for the fragrant 
principle than the fiitty matter ; the for- 
mer, therefore, becomes perfumed at the 
expense of the latter. The same ex- 
periment may be repeated with almond 
oil substituted for the fat. 

The experiment here hinted at may be 
varied with any^ flowers whatever ; in- 
deed, by having the macerating bath lar- 
ger than was mentioned above, an excel- 
lent milleffeur pomade and essence might 
be produced from every conservatory. 

The odor of heliotrope resembles a 
mixture of almonds and vanilla, and is 
well imitated thus : — 

Extract of Heliotrope. — Half a pint of 
spirituous extract of vanilla ; one gill 
of spirituous extract of French rose po- 
matum ; two ounces spirituous extract of 
orange-flower pomatum ; one ounce spirit- 
uous extract of ambergris ; five di-ops of 
essential oil of almonds. 

A good Imitation of HoneysucMe is 
made thus : — Spirituous extract of rose 
pomatum, one pint ; spirituous extract 
of violet pomatum, one pint ; spirituous 
extract of tubereuse pomatum, one pint ; 
extract of vanilla, one gill ; extract of 
Tolu, one gill ; otto neroli, ten drops ; 
otto almonds, five drops. 

Imitation Essence of Myrtle. — Extract 
of vanilla, half a pint ; extract of roses, 
one pint. 

Orange Flower. — Extract of fleur d'or- 
ange, half a pint ; extract of tubereuse, 
half a pint ; extract of jasmine, two 
ounces. Mix and allow to stand for a 



fortnight : it is then fit for bottling, and 
is a perfume that gives a great deal of sat- 
isfaction. 

Imitation Essence of Violets. — Spirit- 
uous extract of cassie pomade, one pint ; 
esprit de rose, from pomade, half a pint ; 
tincture of orris, half a pint ; spirituous 
extract of tuberosfe pomade, half a pint ; 
otto of almonds, three drops. 

Imitation " lily of the Valley.'''' — Ex- 
tract of tubereuse, half a pint ; extract of 
jasmine, one ounce ; extract of fleur d'or- 
ange, two ounces ; extract of vanilla, 
three ounces ; extract of cassie, one 
gill ; extract of rose, one gill ; otto of al- 
monds, three drops. Keep this mixture 
together for a month, and then bottle 
it for sale. It is a perfume that is very 
much admired. 

Imitation " Essence of Magnolia^ — 
Spirituous extract of orange-flower po- 
matum, one pint ; spirituous extract of 
rose pomatum, two pints ; spirituous ex- 
tract of tubereuse pomatum, half a pint ; 
spirituous extract of violet pomatum, half 
a pint; essential oil of citron, three 
drachms; essential oil of almonds, ten 
drops. . 

Extrait iVAmhre. — Esprit de rose 
triple, half a pint ; extract of ambergris, 
one pint ; essence of musk, one gill ; ex- 
tract of vanilla, two ounces. 

This perfume has such a lasting odor, 
that a handkerchief being well perfumed 
with it, will still retain an odor even af- 
ter it has been washed. 

Patchoiily.—Pogostemon patcTiotdy 
(Lindley), Plectrantlms crassifolins 
(Burnett), is an herb that grows ex- 
tensively in India and China. It some- 
what resembles our garden sage in its 
growth and form. The odor is due to an 
otto contained in the leaves and stems, 
and is readily procured by distillation. 

It is the most powerful of any derived 
from the botanic kingdom ; hence, it 
mixed in the proportion of measure for 



540 



THE PEACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



measure, it completely covers the smell of 
all other bodies. 




Patchouly. 

Extract of PatcJiouly. — Rectified spi- 
rits, one gallon ; otto of patchouly, one 
ounce and a quarter ; otto of rose quarter 
of an ounce. 

The characteristic smell of Chinese or 
Indian ink is due to some admixture of 
this herb. 

The origin of the use of patchouly as a 
perfume in Europe is curious. A few 
j^ears ago real Indian shawls bore an 
extravagant price, and purchasers could 
always distinguish them by their odor ; 
in fact, they were peifumed with pat- 
chouly. The French manufacturers had 
for some time successfully imitated the 
Indian fabric, but could not impart the 
odor. 

At length they discovered the secret, 
and began to import the plant to perfume 
articles of their make, and thus palm oflF 
homespun shawls as real Indian ! From 
this origin the perfumers have brought it 
into use. 

Imitation of the Essence of Sweet 
Pea can be prepared thus v — Extract of 
tuberose, half a pint ; extract of fleur 
d'orange, half a pint ; extract of rose 



from pomatum, half a pint ; extract of 
vanilla, one ounce. 

MvsJs. — This extraordinary substance, 
like civet, is an animal secretion. Musk 
is remarkable for the diffusiveness and 
subtlety of its scent ; every thing in its 
vicinity soon becomes affected by it, and 
long retains its odor, although not in ac- 
tual contact with it. Extract of musk^ 
one pint ; extract of ambergris, half a 
pint ; extract of rose triple, one gill. 
Mix and filter it ; it is then fit for bot- 
tling. 

Eose. — Pure otto of roses, from its 
cloying sweetness, has not many ad- 
mirers ; when diluted, however, there is 
nothing to equal it in odor, especially if 
mixed in soap, to form rose soap, or in 
pure spirit, to form the esprit de rose. 

There are four modifications of essence 
of rose for the hankerchief, which are the 
ne phis ultra of the perfumer's art. They 
are, — esprit de rose triple, essence of 
white roses, essence of tea rose, and 
essence of moss rose. The following are 
the recipes :— 

Esprit de Rose Triple. — Rectified al 
cohol, one gallon ; otto of rose, three 
ounces. Mix at a summer heat ; in the 
course of a quarter of an hour the whole 
of the otto is dissolved, and is then ready 
for bottling. In the winter season beau- 
tiful crystals of the otto — if it is good — 
appear disseminated through the esprit. 

Essence of Moss ^o«e.— Spirituous extract 
from French rose pomatum, one quart ; 
esprit de rose triple, one pint ; extracts 
fleur d'orange pomatum, one pint ; ex- 
tract of ambergris, half a pint ; extracts 
of musk, four ounces. Allow the ingre- 
dients to remain together for a fortnight ; 
then filter, if requisite, and it is ready for 
sale. 

Essence of White Rose. — Esprit de rose 
from pomatum, one quart ; esprit de rose 
triple, one quart ; esprit de rose violette 



PEKFUMERY. 



541 



one quart ; extracts of jasmine, one pint; 
extracts of patchouly, half a pint. 

Essence of Tea Hose. — Esprit de rose 
pomade, one pint ; esprit de rose triple, 
one pint ; extract of rose-leaf geranium, 
one pint ; extract of sandal-wood, half a 
pint ; extract of neroli, quarter of a pint ; 
extract of orris, quarter of a pint. 

Otto of Rosemnry is very extensively 
used in perfumery, especially in combi- 
nation with other ottos for scenting soap. 
Eau de Cologne cannot be made without 
it, and in the once famous "Hungary 
water " it is the leading ingredient. The 
following is the composition of 

Hungary Water. — Rectified alcohol, 
one gallon ; otto of English rosemary, 
two ounces ; otto of lemon-peel, one 
ounce ; otto of balm ( J/fZ/ssa), one ounce ; 
otto of mint, half drachm ; esprit de 
rose, one pint ; extract of fleur d'orange, 
one pint. 

Vanilla. — The pod or bean of the 
Vanilla planifolia yields a perfume of 
rare excellence. 

Extract of Vanilla. — Haifa pound of 
Vanilla pods, and one gallon of rectified 
spirit. 

Slit the pods from end to end, so as to 
lay open the interior, then cut them up 
in lengths of about a quarter of an inch, 
macerate with occasional agitation for 
about a month ; the tincture thus formed 
will only require straining through cotton 
to be ready for any use that is required. 
In this state it is rarely sold for a per- 
fume, but is consumed in the manufacture 
of compound odors, bouquets, or nose- 
gays, as they are called. 

Verlena., or Vervaine. — The scented 
species of this plant, the lemon verbena, 
Aloysia citriodora (Hooker), gives one 
of the finest perfumes with which we 
are acquainted ; it is well known as yield- 
ing a delightful fi'agrance by mei-ely 
drawing the hand over the plant ; some 
of the little vessels or sacks containing 



the otto must be crushed in this act, as 
there is little or no odor by merely 
smelling at the plant. 

The otto, which can be extracted from 
the leaves by distillation with water, on 
account of its high price, is scarcely, if 
ever, used by the manufacturing perfumer, 
but it is most successfully imitated by 
mixing the otto of lemon grass, Andro- 
pogon sch(£7ianthns, with rectified spirit, 
the odor of which resembles the former 
to a nicety. The following is a good form 
for making the 

Extract of Verdena. — One pint of rec- 
tified spirit ; three drachms otto of lemon 
grass ; two ounces otto of lemon peel ; 
half an ounce otto of orange peel. 

After standing together for a few hours, 
and then filtering, it is fit for use. 

Another mixture of this kind, presum- 
ed by the public to be made from the 
same plant, but of a finer quality, is com- 
posed thus : 

Extrait de Verveine. — One pint of rec- 
tified spirit; one ounce of otto of orange 
peel ; two ounces of otto of lemon peel ; 
one drachm of otto of citron ; two drachms 
and a half of otto of lemon grass ; seven 
ounces of extrait de fleur d'orange ; 
seven ounces of extrait de fleur tubereuse ; 
half a pint esprit de rose. 

This mixture is exceedingly refreshing, 
and is one of the most elegant perfumes 
that is made. 

Winter Green (Trientalis Et/.ropcea). 
— A perfuming otto can be procured by 
distilling the leaves of this plant ; it is 
principally consumed in the perfuming of 
soaps. Upon the strength of the name 
of this odorous plant a very nice hand- 
kerchief perfume is made. 

Iceland Winter Green. — One pint es- 
prit de rose ; a quarter of a pint of es- 
sence of lavender ; half a pint of extract 
of neroli ; a quarter of a pint of extract 
of vanilla; a quarter of a pint of ex- 



542 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



tract of vitivert ; half a pint of extract 
of cassie ; a quarter of a pint of extract 
of ambergris. 

Citron. — On distilling the flowers of 
the Citruft medica. a very fragrant oil is 
procured, which is a species of neroli, 
and is principally consumed by the manu- 
facturers of eau de Cologne. 

Citronella. — Under this name there is 
an oil in the market, chiefly derived from 
Ceylon and the East Indies. Being 
cheap, it is extensively used for perfum- 
ing soap. What is now extensively sold 
as " honey" soap, is a fine yellow soap, 
slightly perfumed with this oil. 

Cloves. — Every pan of the clove plant 
{Caryophyllus aromaticvs) abounds with 
aromatic oil, but it is most fragrant and 
plentiful in the iinexpanded flower-bud, 
which are the cloves of commerce. The 
plant is a native of the Moluccas and 
other islands in the China seas. The oil 
may be obtained by expression from the 
fresh flower-buds, but the usual method 
of procuring it is by distillation. Few 
essential oils have a more extensive use 
in perfumery ; it combines well with 
grease, soap, and spirit, and forms a lead- 
ing feature in some of the most popular 
handkerchief essences. For essence of 
cloves, dissolve oil of cloves in the pro- 
portion of two ounces of oil to one gallon 
of spirit. 




Cloves. 
Ess. Bouquet. — The reputation of this 



perfume has given rise to numerous imi- 
tations of the original article, more par- 
ticularly on the continent. In many of 
the shops in Germany and in France will 
be seen bottles labelled in close imitation 
of those sent out by Bay ley and Co., 
Cockspur Street, London, who are, iu 
truth, the original makers. 

Esprit de rose triple, one pint ; extract 
of ambergris, two ounces ; extract ot 
orris, eight ounces ; otto of lemons, one- 
quarter of an ounce ; otto of bergamot, 
one ounce. 

Compound Odors, or bouquets, are used 
for the purpose of fixing the more vola- 
tile odors to the handkerchief. 

Essence of Rondeletia. — Spirit (brandy) 
one gallon ; otto of lavender, two ounces ; 
otto of cloves, one ounce ; otto of roses, 
three drachms ; otto of bergamot, one 
ounce; one gill of extract of musk> 
one gill of extract of vanilla, and one gill 
of extract of ambergris. 

The mixture must be made at least a 
month before it is fit for use. 

Bouquet de Caroline; also called 
Bouquet des Delices. — Extrait de rose, 
from pomade, one pint ; extrait de vio- 
lette, fi'om pomade, one pint; extrait de 
tuberose, from pomade, one pint ; extract 
of orris, half a pint ; extract of ambergris, 
half a pint ; otto of bergamot, a quarter 
of an ounce; otto of limette, a quarter 
of an ounce ; otto of cedret, a quarter of 
an ounce. 

The Court Nosegay. — Extrait de rose, 
one pint ; extrait de violette, one pint ; 
extrait de jasmine, one pint ; esprit de 
rose triple, one pint ; extract of musk, 
one ounce ; extract of ambergris, one 
ounce ; otto of lemon, half an ounce ; 
otto of bergamot, half an ounce ; otto ot 
neroli, one drachm. 

Boxiquet de Flora ; otherwise, Ettract 
of Flowers. — Esprit de rose, from po- 
made, one pint ; esprit de tubereuse, from 



PEEFIJMEEY. 



543 



pomade, one pint ; esprit de violette, 
from pomade, one pint ; extract of ben- 
zoin, an ounce and a half; otto of ber- 
gamot, two ounces ; otto of lemon^ half 
an ounce ; otto of orange, half an ounce. 

Essentia Odorifera. — Take of musk 
grain, ten grains ; civet, five grains ; Pe- 
ruvian balsam,twelve grains ; oil of cloves, 
four drops ; oil of rhodium, two drops ; 
sub-carbonate of potash, half a drachm ; 
rectified spirits of wine, two ounces. Di- 
gest them together in a close vessel, with 
a heat equal to that of the sun in sum- 
mer (78 deg. Fahr.) for several days, and 
afterwards pour off" the essence for use. — 
This is an exquisite perfume, and a single 
drop gives a fine flavor to many ounces 
of other liquors. 

Eati de CJiypre. — This is an old- 
fashioned French perfume, presumed to 
be derived from the Cyperns escidentus by 
some, and by others to be so named after 
the island of Cyprus ; the article sold, 
however, is made thus : 

Extract of musk, one pint ; extract of 
ambergris, half a pint ; extract of vanilla, 
half a pint ; extract of tonquin bean, half 
a pint ; extract of orris, half a pint ; es- 
prit de rose triple, two pints. 

The mixture thus formed is one of the 
most lasting odors that can be made. 

Empress Eugenie's Kosegay. — Extract 
of musk, one gill ; extract of vanilla, one 
gill ; extract of tonquin. one gill ; ex- 
tract of neroli, one gill ; extract of ge- 
ranium, half a pint ; extract of rose 
triple, half a pint ; extract of santal, half 
a pint. 

The Guards'' Bouquet. — Esprit de rose, 
two pints ; esprit de neroli, half a pint ; 
extract of vanilla, two ounces ; extract 
of orris, two ounces ; extract of musk, a 
quarter of a pint ; otto of cloves, half a 
drachm. 

FlevT d'ltalie^ or Italian Nosegay. — 
Esprit de rose, from pomade, two pints ; 



Esprit de rose triple, one pint ; esprit de 
jasmine, from pomade, one pint ; es- 
prit de violette, from pomade, one. pint , 
extract of cassie, half a pint ; extract of 
musk, two ounces ; extract of ambergris, 
two ounces. 

Jockey Club Bouquet (English for- 
mula). — Extract of orris root, two pints ; 
esprit de rose triple, one pint ; esprit de 
rose de pomade, one pint; extrait de 
cassie de pomade, half a pint ; extrait de 
tubereuse de pomade, half a pint ; extrait 
of ambergris, half a pint ; otto of ber- 
gamot, half an ounce. 

Jochey Glui Bouquet (French formula). 
— Esprit de rose de pomade, one pint ; 
esprit de tubereuse, one pint ; esprit de 
cassie, half a pint ; esprit de jasmine, 
a quarter of a pint ; extract of civet, three 
ounces. 

SPIRITUOUS INFUSIONS. 

Leaves, flowers, roots, wood, resins, 
powders, and perfumes of animal origin, 
all serve to furnish these tinctures. The 
substances are either cut, rasped, or 
bruised, according to their nature, and 
infused for some days or a month, taking 
care not to fill the vessel so full as to 
prevent its contents being stirred up oc- 
casionally. These infusions are made 
either with alcohol or brandy. 

Eau de Vie de LaTande.—Tsike one pound 
of flowers, and three pints of brandy. 
Infuse in a closed vessel for six weeks, 
and after that strain and bottle up for 
use or sale. 

Infusion de Lavande Rouge composee 
(English). — Take of spirit lavender, one 
pound and a half ; spirit rosemary, one 
pound ; pulverized cinnamon, one ounce ; 
pulverized nutmegs, one ounce ; red San- 
ders, one drachm. After two weeds' in- 
fusion, filter. 

Infusion de Camomille Eomaine. — One 



544 



THE PKACTICAL H0U8EKEEPKK. 



pound of flowers suffices for three quarts 
of brandy. 

Infusion of Absinthe : de Sauge, &c. — 
Take only four leaves to the quart of 
brandy. These infusions serve in the 
composition of sundry aromatic waters. 
Infusion or Esprit de Safran. — To a 
quart of alcohol, take two ounces saflfron 
and infuse for two months. This spirit 
is used for coloring waters, pastes, &c., 
but in very small proportions. 

Infusion or Esprit de Rhodia. — Infuse 
as before one pound of rhodium wood in 
two quarts of spirit. If the wood is re- 
sinous, only half a pound is required. 

Infusion or Teinture de Ganelle. — 
Take four ounces best bruised cinnamon 
to the quart of spirit. 

Tincture of Sassafras. — Infuse eight 
ounces of bruised sassafras in one quart 
of alcoh ol. 

Tincture of Santal-citrin (yellow San- 
ders). — Operate as for the preceding in- 
fusion. 

Tincture of Benzoin. — Take Benzoin in 
tears and pulverized, two ounces ; al- 
cohol one pound. After seven days' 
infusion, filter. This tincture is used, 
principally, for making the Lait Virgi- 
nal., either with pure rose, orange flower 
or lavender water. 

To malte Eau-de-Cologne. — Rectified 
spirits of wine, four pints ; oil of berga- 
mot, one ounce ; oil of lemon, half an 
ounce ; oil of rosemary, half a drachm ; 
oil of Neroli, three quarters of a drachm ; 
oil of Enghsh lavender, one drachm ; oil 
of oranges, one drachm. Mix well, and 
then filter. If these proportions are too 
large, smaller ones may be used. 

Eau Jamie a V Amaryllis. — In two 
quarts of alcohol, dissolve two ounces es- 
sence of bergamot, four ounces essence of 
lemon, four drachms essence of Portu- 
gal, four drachms essence of neroli, one 
drachm essence of thyme, one drachm 
essence of rosemary, two ounces of tinc- 



ture of cloves, eight ounces of lait vir- 



ginul., as much of vanilla water, four 
drachms of essence of amber, and two 
drachms essence of musk. Dilute the 
spirit with good rose water, and add 
a little of red or yellow tincture, ac- 
cording to choice . 

Eau d''Amhre Rotjale. — To a quart of 
alcohol add half a pint of spirit of am- 
brette, an ounce of essence of amber, an 
ounce of musk mixed with a proportional 
quantity of orange-flower water. 

Eau de Chypre. — Mix together (eaw de) 
jasmine, one quart ; (^eau de) bergamot, 
one quart ; (eau de) violet, one quart ; 
(eau de) tuberose, one quart ; (esjyrit) 
spirit of ambrette. one pint ; essence of 
musk, one ounce ; mccca balsam, one 
ounce ; storax. half an ounce. 

Add to the mixture two ounces of 
water, and mix thoroughly together, so 
that no one odor predominates over the 
rest. 

Lavender Water. — Oil of lavender, two 
drachms ; oil of bergamot, half drachm ; 
essence of musk, one drachm ; spirit of 
wine, thirteen ounces ; water, five ounces. 
Let it stand a week. 

Eau de Bouquet de Flore. — Eau de 
miel, two ounces ; tincture of cloves, one 
ounce ; tincture of calamus, half an ounce ; 
tincture of lavender, half an ounce ; tinc- 
ture of souchet, half an ounce ; eau sans 
pareille, four ounces ; tincture of jasmine, 
nine drachms ; tincture of orris root, one 
ounce ; tincture of neroli, twenty drops. 
These waters and tinctures mixed to- 
gether, give a product of exquisite fra- 
grance. 

Eau d''Elegance. — Spirit of jasmine, 
two quarts ; spirit of storax, one pint ; 
spirit of hyacinth, one pint ; spirit of ba- 
diane, four ounces ; tincture of balsam of 
Tolu, four ounces ; tincture of vanilla, 
two ounces. 

Eau de Miel. — This receipt is from one 
of the most celebrated English perfumers ; 
coriander, seven pounds ; cloves, twelve 



HAIE OILS. 



545 



ounces ; storax, eight ounces ; bruised 
nutmegs, eight ounces ; lemon-peel, ten 
ounces ; calamus, six ounces ; alcohol, 
fifteen quarts. 

Macerate for a month in a well-stop- 
pered demijohn. Distil then, and to the 
liquor add : orange-flower water, five 
quarts ; essence of roses, twenty-four 
drops ; pulverized ambergris, one drm. ; 
vanilla in pieces, two ounces. 

Macerate for a week, and filter. This 
is one of the most agreeable waters used. 

OILS FOR THE HAIR. 

For Thickening and Strengthening the 
Hair. — Skim the fat from the top of 
calves' feet while boiling ; mix with a 
teaspoonful of rum ; shake together. 
Apply night and morning. 

Pomatum. — Take white mutton suet, 
four pounds, well boiled in hot water, 
(three quarts,) and washed to free it 
from salt. Melt the suet when dried 
with one pound and a half of fresh lard, 
and two pounds of yellow wax. Pour into 
an earthen vessel, and stir till it is cold ; 
then beat into it thirty drops of oil of 
cloves, or any other essential oil whose 
scent you prefer. If this is too hard, use 
less wax. 

Or : — Soak half a pound of clear beef- 
marrow, and a pound of unsalted fresh 
lard, in water, two or three days, chang- 
ing and beating it every day. Put it into 
a sieve, and when dry, into a jar, and the 
jar into a saucepan of water. When 
melted, pour it into a basin, and beat 
it with two spoonfuls of brandy ; drain 
off the brandy, and then add essence of 
lemon, bergamot, or any other scent that 
is liked. 

Pomade Victoria. — This highly praised 
and excellent pomade is made in the fol- 
lowing way — and if so made, will be 
found to give a beautiful gloss and soft- 
ness to the hair : — Quarter of a pound of 
honey and hah" an ounce of beeswax 
sunmered together for a few minutes, 



and then strain ; and of oil of almonds, 
lavender, and thyme, half a drachm each. 
Be sure to continue stirring till quite 
cold, or the honey and wax will separate. 
Imitation Bear''s Grease. — Hog's lard, 
sixteen ounces; flowers of benzoin and 
palm oil, of each quarter of an ounce. Melt 
together until combined, and stir until cold. 
Scent at pleasure. This will keep a long 
time. 

Sweet Pot-pourri. — Take three hand- 
fuls of orange-flowers, three of clove-gilly- 
flowers, three of damask-roses, one of 
knotted marjoram, one of lemon-thyme, 
six bay-leaves, a handful of rosemary, 
one of myrtle, half of mint, one of laven- 
der, the rind of a lemon, and quarter of an 
ounce of cloves. Chop all, and put them 
in layers, with pounded bay-salt between, 
up to the top of a china jar. 

If all the ingredients cannot be got at 
once, put them in as you get them ; 
always throwing in salt with every new 
article. 

To mahe Wash-halls. — Shave thin two 
pounds of new white soap into about a 
teacupful of rose-water, then pour as 
much boiling water on as will soften it. 
Put into a brass pan a pint of sweet oil, 
four pennyworth of oil of almonds, half a 
pound of spermaceti, and set all over the 
fire till dissolved ; then add the soap and 
half an ounce of camphor that has first 
been reduced to powder by rubbing it in 
a mortar, with a few drops of spirits of 
wine, or lavender-water, or any other 
scent. Boil ten minutes, then pour it 
into a basin, and stir it till it is quite 
thick enough to roll up into hard balls, 
which must then be done as soon as pos- 
sible. If essence is used, stir it in quickly 
after it is taken off" the fire, that the fla- 
vor may not fly off! 

Paste for Chapped Hands.— Mix a quar- 
ter of a pound of unsalted hog's lard, which 
has been washed in soft water, and then 
rose-water, with the yolks of two new-laid 



546 



TITE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



eggs, and a large spoonful of honey. Add 
as much fine oatmeal or almond-paste as 
will work into a paste. 

Or : — Blanch one pound of bitter al- 
monds, pound them smooth in a marble 
mortar ; add half an ounce of camphor, one 
ounce of honey, quarter of a pound of sper- 
maceti, all pounded, and mixed with the 
almonds, till it becomes a smooth paste. 
Put it into jars or china boxes, and tie it 
down' till wanted. 

For Chcqjped Lips. — Put quarter of an 
ounce of benjamin, storax, and spermaceti, 
pennyworth of alkanet-root, a large juicy 
apple chopped, a bunch of black grapes 
bruised, quarter of a pound of unsalted 
butter, and two ounces of beeswax, into a 
new tin saucepan. Simmer gently till the 
wax. &c., are dissolved, and then strain it 
through linen. When cold, melt it again, 
and pour it into small pots of boxes ; or, 
if to make cakes, use the bottoms of tea- 
cups. 

Cosmetic Gloves. — Though not alto- 
gether fashionable now, these gloves are 
still worn by those who are subject to 
chaps and chilblains : the ladies especial- 
ly use them ; hence the necessity of al- 
ways being provided with a small stock. 

Gants cosmetiques au 'bouquet. — Wax, 
four drachms ; spermaceti, four draclims ; 
white soap, four drachms ; mutton suet^ 
seven drachms. 

Mince up each of these substances sep- 
arately, melt them over a water-bath, 
and add : Olive oil, an ounce and a half; 
pomade rosat, one ounce and a half; 
benzoin, one drachm ; Peru balsam, one 
drachm ; essence of roses, some drops ; 
honey water, au bouquet, half an ounce. 
Stir together until the mixture is com- 
plete, and, whilst the mass is still hot, 
apply it with a brush to the wrong sides 
of the gloves. The gloves being return- 
ed, are blown up, and put by in a warm 
place to dry. 



Or : — Beat two yolks of eggs with two 
spoonfuls of oil of sweet almonds, and add 
half an ounce rose water and two drachms 
tincture of benzoin. 

The gloves are worn during the night, 
and each pair should serve two weeks. 
The rest of the pomade answers for rub- 
bing the hands. 

Lait de rose (milk of rose). — To one 
ounce of fine olive oil, and six drops of 
oil of tartar, add a quart of rose water. 
Melt together, in a stoneware vessel, over 
a water-bath : Spermaceti, one ounce ; 
white wax, one ounce ; white soap, one 
ounce. Rub up in a marble mortar bit- 
ter almonds (best quality), two ounces ; 
sweet almonds, best quality, one pound. 
Take out three-fourths, and upon the re- 
maining fourth pour the above mixture, 
and continue rubbing actively, and after- 
wards add, by degrees, the other three- 
fourths of the almonds, always pestling 
rapidly so as to thoroughly incorporate 
the mixture. 

Again prepare in a white-glass bottle 
the following mixture : — Distilled water, 
two pounds ; rose water, half a pound ; 
spirit of rose, half a pound. Reserve a 
pint, and pour gradually into the rest the 
first, and rub well all the while; then 
strain through a close cloth, and return 
the marc to the mortar, where, being 
triturated with the pint above reserved, 
it is again strained, and the Uquid united 
with the first. 

If there is any tendency to decompo- 
sition, shake up the milk freely. To aug- 
ment the fragrance of this composition, 
perfume with four drops essence of rose. 

Violet Powder. — Wheat starch, twelve 
pounds ; orris-root powder, two pounds ; 
otto of lemon, half an ounce ; otto of 
bergamot, a quarter of an ounce ; otto of 
cloves, two drachms. 

Rose Face Powder. — Wheat starch, 
seven pounds ; rose pink, half a drachm ; 



POWDEKS SOAPS. 



547 



otto of rose, two drachms ; otto of santal, 
two drachms. 

Perle Powder. — French chalk, one 
pound; oxide of bismuth, one ounce; 
oxide of zinc, one ounce. 

Poudre de la mer rouge^ by Cambou, 
Paris. — Take alum, one pound ; white 
sugar, one ounce ; gum arabic (best), one 
ounce ; carmine, one ounce. Mix and re- 
duce the whole to an impalpable powder, 
and sieve through a fine cloth. 

This powder, its author says, is cura- 
tive of the ringworm, red blotches, and 
pimples. 

It is tied up loosely in a bag, and this 
bag, moistened with fresh water, is rub- 
bed gently over the skin. 

SOAPS. 

Savon au miel. — Take four ounces 
white soap, four ounces white honey, 
one ounce benzoin, half an ounce storax ; 
mix the whole together in a marble mor- 
tar, and when well incorporated, melt the 
paste over a water-bath, strain, pour 
into frames, and divide into small 
tablets. 

Lady Derby's Soap. — Take two ounces 
blanched bitter almonds, ten drachms 
tincture benzoin, a pound of white soap, 
and a piece of camphor, size of a filbert ; 
powder the almonds and camphor in a 
separate mortar, and, when they are com- 
pletely mixed, add the benzoin. If there 
should be too much odor of benzoin and 
camphor, weaken the perfume by remelt- 
ing the soap. 

Saponaceous Cream of Almonds. — The 
preparation sold under this title is a 
potash soft soap of lard. It has a beauti- 
ful pearly appearance, and has met with 
extensive demand as a shaving soap. It 
is made thus : — Clarified lard, seven 
pounds ; potash of lye (containing twenty- 
six per cent, of caustic potash), three and 
three-quarter pounds ; rectified spirit, 



three ounces; otto of almonds, two 
drachms. 

Manipulation : — Melt the lard in a por- 
celain vessel by a salt-water bath ; then 
run in the lye, very slowly, agitating the 
whole time ; when about half the lye is 
in, the mixture begins to curdle ; it will, 
however, become so firm that it cannot 
be stirred. The creme is then finished, 
but is not pearly ; it will, however, as- 
sume that appearance by long trituration 
in a mortar, gradually adding the al- 
cohol, in which has been dissolved the 
perfume. 

Transyarent Soap. — Take of perfectly 
dry, pulverulent white soap, two pounds ; 
alcohol, three quarts ; heat gently to- 
gether over a water-bath, and' when the 
solution is complete, perfume, and turn 
out into forms. 

When cooled, divide it into cakes, one- 
third thicker than their designed size, 
so as to allow for contraction by evapo- 
ration. 

Frangipanne Soap. — Curd soap, pre- 
viously colored light brown, seven pounds ; 
civet, a quarter of an ounce ; otto of 
neroli, half an ounce ; otto of santal, an 
ounce and a half; otto of rose, a quarter 
of an ounce ; otto of vitivert, half an 
ounce. 

Rose Cold Cream. — Almond oil, one 
pound ; rose-water, one pound ; white 
wax, one ounce ; spermaceti, one ounce ; 
otto of roses, half a drachm. Heat the 
wax and sperm in a water-bath ; add the 
otto last. 

Cold Cream of Almonds is prepared 
precisely as the above ; but in place of 
otto of roses otto of almonds is used. 

Violet Gold Cream. — Huile violette, 
one pound ; rose-water, one pound ; wax 
and .spermaceti, each one ounce ; otto of 
almonds, five drops. 

Violet Cold Cream. Imitation: — Al- 
mond oil, three-quarters of a pound ; 



648 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



huile cassie, a quarter of a pound ; rose- 
water, one pound ; sperm and wax, one 
ounce ; otto of almonds, a quarter of a 
drachm. 

This is an elegant and economical pre- 
paration, generally admired. 

Camplwr Cold Cream (otherwise Cam- 
phor Ice). — Almond oil, one pound ; rose 
water, one pound ; wax and spermaceti, 
one ounce ; camphor, two ounces j otto 
of rosemary, one drachm. 

Pommades des Sultanes. — Melt over a 
water-bath one ounce white wax and 
two ounces spermaceti ; withdraw from 
the fire, and then add eight ounces oil 
of sweet almonds, eight ounces oil of 
white poppy, and continue beating to- 
gether without interval until the mixture 
begins to get white, then put in half an 
ounce of Mecca balsam and a gill of rose- 
water, and prolong the rubbing until the 
mixture will take up no moi'e of rose 
water, and detaches itself in large flakes 
or lumps. 

In filling the pots, take care to cover 
the contents with a little rose-water. 
This is among the best preparations for 
softening the skin and preserving its 
freshness. 

Pommade de Ninon de VEnclos, by 
Boycr. — Take oil of sweet almonds, four 
ounces ; washed lard, three ounces, rose- 
water, three ounces. This pomade is 
extremely mild and refreshing. 

Pate divine de Venus, by Bourdel. — 
Mix together equal parts of purified lard, 
fresh butter, and honey, and add a half 
portion of Mecca balsam, and essence of 
roses. 

Almond Balls. — Purified suet, one 
pound ; white wax, half a pound ; otto 
of almonds, one drachm ; otto of cloves, 
quarter of a drachm. 

Camphor Balls. — Purified suet, one 
pound ; white wax. half a pound ; cam- 
phor, quarter of a pound ; otto of French 
lavender or rosemary, half an ounce. 



Camj)hor Paste — Sweet almond oil, 
half a pound ; purified lard, quarter of a 
pound ; wax, spermaceti and camphor, 
each, one ounce. 

Pate d^Amundes Aux Jaunes d''<£ufs. 
— To four ounces sweet almonds, pow- 
dered finely in a marble mortar, add the 
yolks of three fresh eggs, mix well, 
thin out with eight ounces of miik, and 
boil until it assumes the consistence of 
paste, stirring constantly during the 
ebullition. Perfume with one drachm 
essence of vanilla. 

Composition par Blaque, Paris, for 
Softening the -S'^'m.— Butter, four pounds ; 
oil of sweet almonds, four pounds ; com- 
mon white soap, six pounds ; decoction 
of marshmallow, eight pounds ; alcohol, 
one pint. 

Melt and heat together, in a stoneware 
vessel, over a water- bath, stirring well 
all the time ; and when the whole is 
thoroughly incorporated, pour out to 
cool. Perfume according to taste. A 
quantity of the size of a filbert, well 
rubbed on, suffices for washing the 
hands. 

Camphor Cerate for Chapped Hands. — 
Take half an ounce of spermaceti, half an 
ounce of white wax, scrape them into an 
earthen vessel or pipkin (an earthen 
jam-pot will do,) add six drachms of 
pounded camphor, and pour on the whole 
four table-spoonfuls of best olive oil ; let 
it stand before the fire till it dissolves, stir- 
ring it well when liquid. Before you 
wash your hands, take a small piece of 
the cerate, and rub it into jonv hands, 
then wash them as usual. Putting the 
cerate on before going to bed is very 
good. The ingredients cost two shillings, 
and this quantity will last for three win- 
ters. The vessel should be covered, to 
prevent evaporation. 

To eradicate Warts. — Dissolve as much 
common washing soda as the water will 
take up ; repeatedly wash with this for a 



COLD CREAM — VINEGAES. 



549 



minute or two, and let them dry without 
wiping. 

Another Method. — Get a little bul- 
lock's gall, keep it in a bottle, and rub a 
little on the warts two or three times a 
day. 

Cold Cream. — Lard, six ounces ; sper- 
maceti, one ounce and a drachm and a 
half ; white wax, three drachms ; rose- 
water, three ounces ; carbonate of potass, 
fifteen grains ; spirits of wine, three quar- 
ters of an ounce ; essential oil of berga- 
mot, three drachms. Melt the three first, 
then add the rose-water, carbonate of 
potass, and spirits of wine, stirring well, 
and when nearly cold add the perfume. I 
can safely say that this is first-rate, hav- 
ing made many pounds of it. 

To Whiten the Nails. — Diluted sul- 
phuric acid, two drachms ; tincture of 
myrrh, one drachm ; spring water, four 
ounces. Mix. First cleanse with white 
soap, and then dip the fingers irrto the 
mixture. 

To Whiten the Hands. — Take a wine- 
glassful of Eau de Cologne, and another 
of lemon-juice : then scrape two cakes of 
brown Windsor soap to a powder, and 
mix well in a mould. When hard, it will 
be an excellent soap for whitening the 
hands. 

Rose Lip Salve. — Eight ounces sweet 
almond oil, four ounces prepared mutton 
suet, one and a half ounces white wax, 
two ounces spermaceti, twenty drops 
otto ; steep a small quantity of alkanet 
root in the oil, and strain before using. 
Melt the suet, wax, and spermaceti to- 
gether, then add the coloric oil and otto. 

Pommade de Beaute., for improving the 
complexion, and healing chaps. Melt to- 
gether over a water-bath white wax, one 
and a half drachms ; spermaceti, two 
drachms ; oil of sweet almonds, half an 
ounce ; oil of olives, pure, half an ounce ; 
oil of poppy, half an ounce j balsam Peru, 
35 



liquid, four drops. Add the balsam after 
having well beaten the mixture. This is 
an excellent cosmetic. 

Glycerine Baham. — White wax, sper- 
maceti, each one ounce ; almond oil, half 
a pound ; glycerine, two ounces ; otto of 
roses, quarter of a drachm. 

White Lip Salve. — Almond oil, quar- 
ter of a pound ; wax and spermaceti, each 
one ounce ; otto of almonds, half a drm. ; 
otto of geranium, quarter of a drachm. 

Common Lip Salve is made simply of 
equal parts of lard and suet, colored wil^ 
alkanet root, and perfumed with an ounce 
of bergamot to every pound of salve. 

Pommade, ly Dr. Pittschaft, Baden, 
for Chapped Lips. — Take sublimed oxide 
of zinc, one drachm ; lycopodium powder, 
one drachm ; pommade rosat, four ounces. 

Mix, and make into a perfectly homo- 
geneous pomade. 

This is an excellent remedy for chap- 
ped lips, and is beneficial in cases of ul- 
ceration of the nails of the feet. Its 
application in such instances must be 
immediately after bathing the afiected 
parts. 

A toilet can be arranged and furnished 
according to taste, where there is more 
regard to convenience and comfort than 
expense of outlay. The necessaries, how- 
ever, for a dressing-table and washstand, 
are two cakes of fine soap, a box of den- 
tifrice, a pot of pomade for the hair, and 
a box of lip salve. • 

Acetic Acid and its Use in Perfumery' 
— The pungency of the odor of vinegar 
naturally brought it into the earliest use 
in the art of perfumery. 

The modern aromatic vinegar is the 
concentrated acetic acid aromatized with 
various ottos, camphor, &c., thus : — 

Aromatic Vinegar. — Concentrated ace- 
tic acid, eight ounces ; otto of English 
lavender, two drachms ; otto of English 



550 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



rosemary, one drachm ; otto of cloves, 
one drachm ; camphor, one ounce. 

Firit't dissolve the bruised camphor in 
the acetic acid, then add the perfumes ; 
after remaining together for a few days, 
with occasional agitation, it is to be 
strained, and is then ready for use. 

The most popular article of this kind 
is — 

Henry's Vinegar. — Dried leaves of 
rosemary, rue, wormwood, sage, mint, 
and lavender flowers, each half an ounce ; 
bruised nutmeg, cloves, angelica root, and 
camphor, each quarter of an ounce ; alco- 
Tiol (rectified), four ounces ; concentrated 
acetic acid, sixteen ounces. 

]SIacerate the materials for a day in the 
spirit ; then add the acid, digest for a 
week, and filter it. 

Vinaigre d la Rose. — Concentrated 
acetic acid, one ounce ; otto of roses, half 
a drachm. Well shaken together. 

It is obvious that vinegars differently 
perfumed may be made in a similar man- 
ner to the above, by using other ottos in 
place of the otto of roses. All these con- 
centrated vinegars are used in the same 
way as perfumed ammonia, that is, by 
pouring three or four drachms into an 
ornamental " smelling " bottle, pre- 
viously filled with crystals of sulphate of 
potash, which forms the " sel de vinaigre " 
of the shops ; or upon sponge into little 
silver boxes, called vinaigrettes, from their 
French origin. The use of these vinegars 
had their origin in the notion that 
they kept tlfose who carried them from 
the effects of infectious disease. 

Mint Vinegar. — This is made by put- 
ting into a wide-mouthed bottle, fresh 
nice clean mint leaves enough to fill it 
loosely ; then fill up the bottle with good 
vinegar ; and after it has been stopped 
close for two or three weeks, it is to be 
poured ofi" clear into another bottle, and 
kept well corked for use. Serve with 
lamb when mint cannot be obtained. 



Thieves^ Vinegar. — Take of rue. sage, 
mint, roseT^ary, wormwood, and laven- 
der, a large handful of each ; infuse in 
one gallon of vinegar, in a stone jar 
clofely covered, and keep warm by the 
fire for four days, then strain, and add one 
ounce of camphor, pounded ; bottle, and 
keep well corked. There is a legend con- 
nected with this preparation (called in 
French Vinaigre d quatre Voleum), that 
during the plague at Marseilles certain 
robbers plundered the infected houses 
with impunity, and being apprehended 
and condemned to death, were pardoned 
on condition of disclosing the secret of 
their preventive — as above. The mode of 
using is to wash the face nnd hands with 
it previous to exposure to any infection. 

Vinaigre Virginal. — This mild and re- 
freshing liquor is excellent to remove 
prickly heat, but, before being used for 
such purpose, must be diluted with wa- 
ter. 

Take benzoin pulverized, two ounces ; 
alcohol, eight ounces ; vinegar, two 
pounds. 

Digest the benzoin in the alcohol for a 
week, decant the liquor, and to the re- 
sidue add the vinegar ; after six days' 
infusion, this too is decanted, and it and 
the alcoholic tincture are mixed together, 
and filtered the next day. This vinegar 
weakened with water is a most excellent 
cosmetic, and is in fact a remedy for the 
ill effects of pernicious rouges and paints 
upon the skin. 

Of Vinegars ly Infusion. — These are 
either vinegars of flowers or aromatic 
vinegars. 

Vinaigre de Tbilette, ly Sinfa/r., Park. 
— Alcohol eight quarts ; white vine- 
gar, two quarts ; cologne water, one 
pint ; extract of benzoin, two ounces ; 
extract of storax, two ounces ; acetic acid, 
four ounces ; essence of lavender, one 
ounce and a half ; essence of cinnamon, 



VINEGARS — SALTS. 



551 



one drachm ; essence of cloves, one 
drachm ; ammonia, one drachm. 

Mix together the alcohol, lavender, 
cinnamon and cloves, and macerate for 
eight days ; then add the vinegars, co- 
logne, extracts, and ammonia ; color, and 
filter through paper. 

Vinaigre Eosat. — Dry rose leaves, red, 
half a pint ; good vinegar, eight quarts. 
Macerate for two weeks in a closed ves- 
sel, and after that filter. 

Vinaigre a la Fleur (P Oranger.—Fresh 
orange flowers, one and a half pounds ; 
vinegar, eight quarts ; brandy d la fleur 
Woranger. one quart. Macerate for twelve 
days, and filter. 

Vinaigres Infusees d la Lavande, de 
Sauge, Thyme, &c. — One poimd of fresh 
flowers to twelve quarts of vinegar. 

Vinaigre Scillitique, for clearing the 
Voice. — Among speakers and vocalists, 
it is desirable, before commencing the 
exercises of their vocation, that the 
throat be freed from all pituitous hoarse- 
ness. This vinegar accomplishes that 
object, and besides imparting a tone to 
the glottis and all the organs, it serves to 
develop and perfect the voice. Put five 
or six drops of the preparation in a glass 
of warm water, and gargle therewith 
morning, noon, and night of the days on 
which the voice is to be exerted. Take 
of dried squills, one part ; good vinegar, 
twelve parts ; alcohol, half a part. After 
two weeks' maceration in a close vessel, 
press out and filter. 

Vinaigre Alcoholique, for Fits and 
/Swoons. — Mix together equal parts of 
strong concentrated vinegar and alcohol ; 
and, to increase its force, add two drops 
of ether to the quart. This composition 
is most excellent in cases of fainting and 
swooning. 

The best preparation for smelling- 
bottles is what is termed Inexhaustible 
Salts, which is prepared thus : Liquid 
ammonia, one pintj otto of rosemary, 



one drachm ; otto of English lavender, 
one drachm ; otto of bergamot, half a 
drachm ; otto of cloves, half a drachm. 
Mix the whole together with agitation 
in a very strong and well stoppered 
bottle. 

This mixture is used by filling the 
smelling-bottles with any porous absorb- 
ent material, such as asbestos, or, what 
is better, sponge cuttings, that have been 
well beaten, washed and dried. These 
will retain the ammoniacal odor longer 
than any other material ; hence, we pre- 
sume, bottles filled in this way are called 
"inexhaustible," which name, however, 
they do not sustain more than two or 
three months with any credit ; the warm 
hand soon dissipates the ammonia under 
any circumstances, and they require to 
be refilled. 

Preston Salts, which is the cheapest 
of all the ammoniacal compounds, is com- 
posed of some easily decomposable salt of 
ammonia and lime, such as equal parts 
of muriate of ammonia, or of sesqui-car- 
bonate of ammonia, and of fresh-slaked 
lime. When the bottles are filled with 
this compound, rammed in very hard, a 
drop or two of some cheap otto is poured 
on the top prior to corking. For this 
purpose otto of French lavender, or otto 
of bergamot, answers very well. We 
need scarcely mention that the corks are 
dipped into melted sealing-wax. 

Cassolettes and Printaniers. — Casso- 
lettes and printaniers are little ivory boxes 
of various designs, perforated in order to 
allow the escape of the odors contained 
therein. The paste used for filling these 
" ivory palaces whereby we are made 
glad," is composed of equal parts of grain 
musk, ambergris, seeds of the vanilla- 
pod, otto of roses, and orris powder, with 
enough gum acacia, or gum tragacanth 
to work the whole together into a paste. 
These things are now principally used for 
perfuming the pocket or reticule, much 



552 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



in the same way that ornamental silver 
and gold vinaigrettes are used. 

Sachet a la Frangipanne. — Orris-root 
powder, three pounds ; vitivert powder, 
a quarter of a pound ; santal-wood pow- 
der, a quarter of a pound ; otto of neroli, 
one drachm ; otto of rose, one drachm ; 
otto of santal, one drachm ; musk-pods, 
ground, one ounce. 

The name of this sachet has been hand- 
ed down to us as being derived from a 
Roman alchemist of the noble family of 
Frangipani. 

Heliotrope Sachet. — Powdered orris, 
two pounds ; rose leaves, ground, one 
pound ; tonquin beans, ground, half a 
pound; vanilla beans, a quarter of a 
pound ; grain musk, a quarter of an 
ounce ; otto of almonds, five drops. Well 
mixed by sifting in a coarse sieve, it is 
fit for sale. 

It is one of the best sachets made, and 
is so like in its odor to the flower from 
which it derives its name, that no person 
unacquainted with its composition would, 
for an instant, believe it to be any other 
than the " real thing." 

Lavender Sachet. — Lavender flowers, 
gi'ound, one pound ; gum benzoin, in 
powder, a quarter of a pound ; otto of 
lavender, a quarter of an ounce. 

Sachet a la Mousselaine. — Vitivert, 
in powder, one pound ; santal-wood, half 
a pound ; orris, half a pound ; black cur- 
rant leaves, half a pound; benzoin, 
in powder, a quarter of a pound ; otto of 
thyme, five drops ; otto of roses, half a 
drachm. 

Millejleur Sachet. — Lavender flowers, 
ground, one pound ; orris, one pound ; 
rose leaves, one pound ; benzoin, one 
pound ; tonquin, a quarter of a pound ; 
vanilla, a quarter of a pound ; santal, a 
quarter of a pound ; musk and civet, 
two drachms ; cloves, ground, a quarter 
of a pound ; cinnamon, two ounces ; all- 
spice two ounces. 



Portugal Sachet. — Dried orange-peel, 
one pound; dried lemon-peel, half a 
pound ; dried orris root, half a pound ; 
otto of orange-peel, one ounce ; otto of 
neroli, a quarter of a drachm ; otto of 
lemon grass, a quarter of a drachm. 

Patchouly Sachet. — Patchouly herb, 
ground, one pound ; otto of patchouly, a 
quarter of a drachm. Patchouly herb is 
often sold in its natural state, as import- 
ed, tied up in bundles of half a pound 
each. 

Pot Pourri. — This is a mixture of 
dried flowers and spices not ground. 
Dried lavender, one pound ; whole rose- 
leaves, one pound ; crushed orris, coarse, 
half a pound ; broken cloves, two ounces; 
broken cinnamon, two ounces ; broken 
allspice, two ounces. 

Pose Sachet. — Rose heels or leaves, one 
pound ; santal wood, ground, half a 
pound ; otto of roses, a quarter of an 
ounce. 

An excellent Water to prevent Hair 
from falling off^ and to thicken it. — Put 
four pounds of unadulterated honey into 
a still, with twelve handfuls of the ten- 
drils or vines, and the same quantity of 
rosemary-tops. Distil as cool and as 
slowly as possible. The liquor may be 
allowed to drop till it begins to taste 
sour. 

Tooth Powder. — Powdered orris root, 
half an ounce ; powdered charcoal, two 
ounces ; powdered Peruvian bark, one 
ounce ; prepared chalk, half an ounce ; 
oil of bergamot or lavender, twenty drops. 
These ingredients must be well worked 
up in a mortar, until thoroughly incor- 
porated. This celebrated tooth-powder 
possesses three essential virtues, giving 
an odorous breath, cleansing and purify- 
ing the gums, and preserving the enamel ; 
the last rarely found in popular tooth- 
powders. 

Bandoline for the Hair {a French 



PASTILLES, ETC 



553 



receipt). — To one quart of water put half 
an ounce of quince pips, boil it nearly an 
hour, stirring it well, strain it through 
a fine muslin, let it stand twenty-four 
hours, and then add fourteen drops of 
the essential oil of almonds. A dessert 
spoonful of brandy may be added, if re- 
quired to keep a long time. 

Economical Hair Wash. — Take one 
ounce of borax, half an ounce of cam- 
phor, powder these ingredients fine, and 
dissolve them in one quart of boiling 
water ; when cool, the solution will be 
ready for use ; damp the hair frequently. 
This wash not only effectually cleanses 
and beautifies, but strengthens the hair, 
preserves the color, and prevents early 
baldness. The camphor will form into 
lumps, but the water will be sufficiently 
impregnated. 

To make a Curling Fluid for the Hair. 
Melt a bit of white bees'-wax, about the 
size of a filbert kernel, in one ounce of 
oUve oil, to this add one or two drops of 
otto of roses. 

Rose Bandoline. — Gum tragacanth, six 
ounces ; rose water, one gallon ; otto of 
roses, half an ounce. Steep the gum in 
water well, strain and mix thoroughly. 

Simple Pastilles. — Benzoin, half an 
ounce ; cassia, one drachm ; charcoal, two 
ounces ; salpetre, one drachm. Reduce 
all to powder, and mix into a paste with 
a solution of one ounce of gum tragacanth 
to the pint. 

Pastilles au iemoin. — Take half a 
pound of benzoin, four or five grains of 
storax, five grains of cassia, two drachms 
of dry Peru balsam, half a drachm pf 
cloves ; half an ounce of charcoal ; one 
drachm of nitre, half a drachm essential 
oil of orange flowers, and half a drachm 
tincture of ambei-gris. All these materials 
must be in fine powder. 

Pastilles a la rose. — Gum, in impalpa- 



ble powder, six ounces ; olibanum, in im- 
palpable powder, six ounces ; storax, in 
impalpable powder, six ounces ; salt- 
petre, in impalpable powder, four ounces ; 
Powder a la rose, impalpable powder, 
eight ounces ; charcoal, impalpable pow- 
der, two pounds ; essence of roses, half 
an ounce. Mix together the powders, 
and add to them a quart of rose water in 
which has been dissolved an ounce of 
gum tragacanth. Rub up well in a mor- 
tar, and of this paste form the pastilles. 
They are burned upon a handsome chaf- 
ing-dish or perfume-pan made for the 
purpose. 

Fwmigating Paper. — There are two 
modes of preparing this article : — 1. Take 
sheets of light cartridge paper, and dip 
them into a solution of alum — say, alum, 
one ounce ; water, one pint. After they 
are thoroughly moistened, let them be 
well dried ; upon one side of this paper 
spread a mixture of equal parts of gum 
benzoin, olibanum, and either balm of 
Tolu or Peruvian balsam ; or the benzoin 
may be used alone. To spread the gum, 
&c., it is necessary that they be melted 
in an earthenware vessel, and poured 
thinly over the paper, finally smoothing 
the surface with a hot spatula. When 
required for use, slips of this paper are 
held over a candle or lamp, in order to 
evaporate the odorous matter, but not 
to ignite it. The alum in the paper pre- 
vents it to a certain extent from burning. 

2. Sheets of good light paper are to be 
steeped in a solutit)n of saltpetre, in the 
proportions of two ounces of the salt to 
one pint of water, to be afterwards 
thoroughly dried. 

Any of the odoriferous gums, as myrrh, 
olibanum, benzoin, &c., are to be dissolv- 
ed to saturation in rectified spirit, and 
with a brush spread upon one side of the 
paper, which, being himg up, rapidly 
dries. 

Slips of this paper are to be rolled up 



554 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



as Spills, to be ignited, and then to be 
blown out. 

The nitre in the paper causes a con- 
tinuance of slow combustion, diffusing 
during that time the agreeable perfume 
of the odoriferous gums. If two of these 
sheets of paper be pressed together be- 
fore the surface is dry, they will join and 
become as one. When cut into slips, 
they . form what are called Odoriferous 
Lighters, or Perfumed Spills. 

FRAGRANT PASTILLES FOR NECK- 
LACES OR BRACELETS. 
Pate de Roses. — Rose leaves, two 
ounces ; lampblack, one and a half 
drachms ; isinglass, one ounce ; gum tra- 
gacanth, half qjince. 

Dissolve the gum and isinglass in boil- 
ing water, thicken the solution by eva- 
poration, and add thereto the other ar- 
ticles previously mixed together. When 
the paste is homogeneous, knead it well 
in mass, and divide into small beads. It 
can also be moulded into a variety of 
forms and designs, in relief, resembling 
cameos and similar ornaments. 

Pate de Menthe ou de Jasmin. — Flow- 
ers of mint or jasmine, one ounce ; gum 
tragacanth, half ounce ; vermillion, two 
ounces. In this way red-colored pastilles 
are made. 

Pastilles for Bad Breath. — Chocolate, 
three ounces ; charcoal, one ounce ; 
sugar, one ounce ; vanilla, one ounce ; 
mucilage, quantum sufficit. Make into loz- 
enges of five grains, and take four or five 
daily. 

Preparation for Bad Breath. — Dry 
chloride of lime, three drachms ; distilled 
water, two ounces. 

Powder the chloride of lime in a glass 
mortar, and then add a part of the dis- 
tilled water ; stir up and let it repose for 
some minutes j when settled, decant the 
clear liquor. Add a new quantity of 
water to the residue, triturate, and after 
sufficient rest, again draw off the clear 



liquor. Repeat this washing and decant- 
ing- a third time ; add all the clear solu- 
tions together, and filter. To the liquid 
running through, add two ounces alcohol, 
in which four drops oil of rose and four 
drops of any other desired oil are dis- 
solved. 

The solution, thus prepared, removes 
the fetid odor of diseased gums. The 
dose is half a table-spoonful in a tum- 
bler of water, with which the gums are 
moistened daily by means of a sponge or 
brush. 

Keep the bottle always closely stop- 
pered to retard decomposition. 

To Crystallize Flowers. — Construct 
some baskets of fancy form with pliable 
copper wire, and wrap them with gauze. 
Into these tie to the bottom violets, ferns, 
geranium leaves, — in fact, any flowers 
except full-blown roses, — and sink them 
in a solution of alum, of one pound to a 
gallon of water, after the solution has 
cooled. The colors will then be pre- 
served in their original beauty, and the 
crystallized alum will hold faster than 
when from a hot solution. When you 
have a light covering of crystals that 
completely covers the articles, remove 
the basket carefully, and allow to drip 
for twelve hours. These baskets make a 
beautiful parlor ornament, and for a long 
time preserve the freshness of the flowers. 

Hair-dyes. — Nearly all the hair-dyes 
in use at the present time contain some 
form of lead, and are therefore danger- 
ous. The symptoms most commonly re- 
sulting from their use are partial paraly- 
sis, numbness of the back of the head 
and neck, often extending to the arm 
and wrist, pains in the stomach and 
bowels, with other indications of lead 
poisoning. During the past few years, 
since these dj'cs have been largely used, 
many lives have been sacrificed ; and 
those of ruined health or impaired con- 
stitutions may be counted by thousands. 



HAIE DTE DEPILATORY. 



555 



These preparations are generally 
represented to be harmless. The nox- 
ious ingredient being usually lead, this 
may be readily detected by adding to a 
little of the suspected dye a few drops 
of a solution of hydriodate of potash, to 
be obtained at any drug store. One 
drachm dissolved in an ounce of water 
will be of sufficient strength. The 
preparation, if it contains lead, will be 
instantly changed to a bright orange 
color, the product being hydriodate of 
lead. As appears by Prof. C. F. Chand- 
ler's Report to the Board of Health of 
New York City, fifteen out of sixteen 
preparations for the hair which he ana- 
lyzed contained lead in varied proportions 
from .11 to 16.39 grains in one fluid ounce. 

Even without a resort to chemical 
re-agents, one may usually satisfy himself 
of the contents of these compounds by 
the peculiar sticky feeling of acetate of 
lead when rubbed between the fingers, 
or by placing a drop upon the tongue 
and noting the sweetish astringent taste 
of the salt. Avoid as you would any 
other deadly poison all dyes or hair- 
dressings which contain lead in any of 
its various forms. See Hair-dressing 
page 566. 

Chinese Depilatory. — Quicklime, one 
pound ; pearlash and sulphuret of potas- 
sium, each, two ounces. Triturate to- 
gether, sieve, and preserve the fine pow- 
der in a well-stopped bottle. 

Grcme Parisienne Depilatoire. — Take 
quicklime, two ounces ; orpiment (sul- 
phuret of arsenic), half an ounce ; alka- 
net in powder, two drachms. 

Mix together and pack up in bottles or 
boxes, bearing directions as follows, and 
to be strictly conformed to in the appli- 
cation of the powder : 

Put some pinches into a saucer or egg- 
glass, and pour upon it enough warm wa- 
ter to thin it into a pasty or pap consis- 
tence, and apply it in this form to the 



places to be depilated. Let it remain five 
to eight minutes, then moisten with a 
little warm water, and gently remove the 
dampened stuff with the point of a knife. 
Afterwards sponge the part with warm 
water and dry without rubbing. 

It is necessary that there should al- 
ways be an interval of twenty-four hours 
between any two applications of this 
powder, 

JEau de Javelle (rectified.) — This water 
is Used both as a disinfectant, and for the 
removal of fruit, rust, and ink stains. It 
is prepared by saturating an aqueous so- 
lution of pot^h with chlorine gas. A 
few drops, washing the linen afterwards 
with soap, will bleach it perfectly. 

Ink fior Marking Linen. — Sulphate of 
manganese, one drachm ; distilled wa- 
ter, one drachm ; powdered sugar, two 
drachms ; lampblack, half a drachm. 

Make into a semi-liquid paste. This 
paste is used with a stamp. The mark 
is dried, then washed in solution of caus- 
tic potash and dried anew ; then again 
washed in water. The name now stands 
out boldly. 

Shaving Pastes. — White wax, sperma- 
ceti, aad almond oil, of each, quarter of 
an ounce ; melt, and while warm, beat 
in two squares of Windsor soap, pre- 
viously reduced to a paste, with rose 
water. 

Another. — Melt together half an ounce 
each of spermaceti, white wax, and oil of 
almonds ; beat it up with three ounces 
of the best soap, and a sufficient quantity 
of eau de Cologne. 

Preparation of Good Hair Dye. — Ten 
grains gallic acid in one ounce weak al- 
cohol. 

For the Dye. — Four grains nitrate of 
silver in one ounce of water with half a 
drachm of aqua ammonia. 

Add the ammonia cautiously till the 
precipitate dissolves. 



THE FAMILY MEDICAL OUIDE. 



No directions here given are intended 
to supply the place of medical attendance. 
A little medical knowledge is a danger- 
ous thing, and this temporizing with the 
constitution is often attended with the 
worst results. It would, therefore, be 
an act of folly and danger for the non- 
professional to presume to decide on the 
ailment, and equally so to prescribe for 
it. At the same time, it is well to gain 
all the information possible. 

The following recipes have been sub- 
mitted to a physician : — 

For Hooping CougTi. — Dissolve one 
scruple of salt of tartar in a gill of soft 
water ; add to it ten grains of cochineal, 
finely powdered, and sweeten it with 
lump sugar. The dose for an infant is a 
teaspoonful four times a day ; from five 
years old upwards, a table-spoonful may 
be taken. The following embrocation for 
spasmodic coughs of all kinds, as well as 
for inflammatory croup, is valuable : Two 
drachms of tincture of opium, two ounces 
of camphor liniment. A teaspoonful to 
be rubbed in over the throat and chest 
every night and morm"ng, and cover the 
parts immediately with flannel. If the 
chest is loaded with phlegm, a gentle 
emetic must be given once, twice, or 
three times a week, as required. Ipeca- 
cuanha wine is most suitable, and the 
dose for a child of four or five years is 
two and a half or three drachms. 

During the first stages of this disorder 



the patient should breathe an equal tem- 
perature, as nearly as it can be managed, 
not too warm and close, but equal ; and 
when the virulence of the disorder has 
passed away, the open air (if the weather 
be mild) may be frequently resorted to : 
and a change of air, where it is practi- 
cable, will often remove at once all remains 
of the complaint. 

The diet is of paramount importance , 
and for children of even six and seven 
years of age. ought to be little more than 
milk and broth. Should the milk be 
found to curdle on the stomach, a little 
common salt must be added. If thirst 
prevails, a little toast and water may be 
given. If the attack, from its length and 
severity, should cause a loss of strength, 
it will soon be recruited by a cold infusion 
of bark, gentle exercise, pure air, and diet 
of nourishing broth. 

Mixture for Hooping Cough. — Ipeca- 
cuanha wine, two drachms ; carbonate of 
soda, half a drachm ; paregoric elixir, two 
drachms ; water, one ounce. A teaspoon- 
ful or two (according to the age of the 
patient) may be given three times a 
day. 

Scarlet Fetter, or Scarlatina. — This 
disease begins with the common symp- 
toms of fever, often with languor and 
disposition to fainting, shiverings, sick- 
ness, a quick pulse, and pain in the head ; 
there is frequently, very early in the dis- 
order, a stiffness of the muscles of the 



FAMILY MEDICAL GUIDE. 



557 



neck, which is soon followed by some 
diflBculty in swallowing. 

To determine the eruption to the sur- 
face of the body, it will be right to give 
the simple saline, made as follows : Take 
of citric acid one drachm and a half; hi 
carbonate of potasb, two drachms ; water, 
seven ounces and a half; simple syrup, 
half an ounce ; spirits of nitre, two 
drachms. Mix, and take a sixth part 
every four hours. If the child is very 
young, give half the dose. 

Throughout the whole of this disease 
it will be advisable to make frequent use 
of some detergent (cleansing) gargle, 
which in young children must be thrown 
into the throat with a syringe. 

Detergent Oargle. — Take of purified 
alum one drachm ; barley water, half a 
pint ; honey of roses, one ounce. 

Draught for Palpitation of the Heart, 
with great nervous Irritability. — Tinc- 
ture of foxglove, ten drops ; camphor 
mixture, one ounce ; tincture of columba, 
one drachm. This draught may be taken 
twice a day. 

Mixture for Children Teething^ when 
the Bowels are disordered. — Chalk mix- 
ture, fifteen drachms ; tincture of cinna- 
mon, one drachm. Mix together. Two 
teaspoonfiils to be given three or four 
tiines a day as required. 

Primrose Ointment.^ for Burns and 
Ulcers. — Bruise one pound of the leaves 
of this well known plant, in a mortar, 
along with half a pound of the flowers ; 
simmer these in an equal quantity of 
hog's-lard, without salt, until the prim- 
roses become crisp ; after which the oint- 
ment, whilst fluid, must be strained 
through a coarse sieve. This is an ex- 
cellent application for obstinate ulcers or 
burns. 

Excellent Medicine for Indigestion. — 
.Carbonate of magnesia, one ounce; car- 



bonate of soda, one ounce ; powdered 
ginger, one drachm ; best Turkey rhubarb, 
half a drachm. Well mixed in a mortar, 
to be kept in a bottle with a glass stopper. 
The dose for an adult is half a teaspoon- 
ful. 

For Inflammation of the Eyes. — Bran- 
dy, one teaspoonful ; white wine vinegar, 
one teaspoonful; soft water, nine tea- 
spoonfuls. Mix — and to be used fre- 
quently. 

Cure for Ringworm. — The head to be 
washed twice a day with soft soap and 
warm soft water ; when dried, the places 
to be rubbed with a piece of linen rag 
dipped in ammonia from gas tar; the 
patient should take a little sulphur and 
molasses, or some other gentle aperient, 
every morning ; brushes and combs 
should be washed every day, and the am- 
monia kept tightly corked. 

Or : — Mix pyroligneous acid with one- 
third of water ; rub the spots carefully 
for three mornings : if cured, a scurf will 
appear, which must be softened with cold 
cream, or lard without salt, but no soap 
or water must be used. 

It is desirable to cut off the hair from 
the immediate neighborhood of the ring ; 
and after the cure is effected, weaken the 
lotion still farther, by the addition of 
more water, and well wash the head all 
over with it. It seldom happens that 
an internal use of medicine is requisite ; 
but where the disease is very inveterate, 
I would recommend a powder to be 
given at bed-time, once or twice. The 
following will answer very well for a 
child of seven years of age : calomel, one 
grain ; jalap, powder, eight grains. 

The great Abernethy used to say poul- 
tices were blessings or curses, as they 
were made ; I cannot, therefore, insert a 
more useful recipe than that of this cele- 
brated surgeon's for a well made 

Bread and Water Poultice. — Scald out 



558 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



a basin, into whicb boiling water is to be 
turned, tben add coarsely-crumbled bread 
as mucb as tbe water will absorb. After 
a little time drain oif the surplus water, 
and spread the light pulp remaining one- 
third of an inch taick on Iblded linen, 
and apply it of the temperature of a 
warm bath. As it becomes dry from the 
heat of the part, moisten by dropping 
on a little warm water. 

Fever and Ague. — The title of inter- 
mittent is applied to that kind of fever, 
which consists of a succession of parox- 
ysms, between each of which there is a 
distinct and perfect intermission from 
fever symptoms. When it comes on 
within the space of twenty-four hours, it 
is called a quoitidian, when it returns 
every other day, it is called a tertian; 
and when it attends on the first and 
fourth day, it is named a quartan ague. 
It is very generally acknowledged that 
marsh exhalations, or the effluvia arising 
from stagnant water when acted upon by 
heat, are the most frequent exciting 
causes of ague. 

Uncleared lands ara also a fruitful 
cause. Hence its prevalence in all new 
countries. Intermittent fever often ap- 
pears in disguise ; sometimes putting on 
the form of periodical headache or neu- 
ral'Tia, which come on with the same 
regularity as the chill, and seem to take 
its place. At other times it is still more 
obscure, existing in the form of dumb 
ugiw, as it is termed. Under all these 
disguises there is usually but little diffi- 
culty in detecting it, through its regular 
periodical return — being generally 
prom[)t to the hour, and not unfrequently 
to the minute. Periodicity, therefore, 
rather than peculiar symptoms, is the 
lest of miasmal complaints. The usual 
mode of treating iever and ague has 
been with tonics, with the view of 
breaking the chill, but nothing is done to 
remove the disease of the liver and 



other organs on which the chill and 
fever depend. Relapses are the conse- 
quence. The sufferer is only cured for 
a time: he is relieved of a symptom of 
disease, not of the disease itself. We 
know of no compound more reliable for 
a thorough and effectual cure than Os- 
good's CholKigogue, a medicine which 
has been before the public more than 
thirty years, and has become the standard 
remedy for these complaints. The pub- 
lisher of this book has for a long time 
used it himself, and in his family, and 
often recommended it to others, and is 
yet to learn of an instance in which it 
has failed to eflfect a cure. It is espe- 
cially valuable also as a preventive for 
persons residing in malarial regions, or 
traveling through them. By taking a 
teaspoonful of the cholagogue, morning 
and night, when thus exposed, all danger, 
with ordinary care, will be avoided. 

Erysi2)elas. — This disease is an inflam- 
matory affection principally of the skin, 
when it makes its appearance externally. 
If there is fever and inflammation, it will 
be proper to administer aperient medi- 
cines, and nothing, perhaps, suits your 
purpose better than the old-fashioned 
black-draught — senna and salts. The ex- 
ternal application of Goulard's Lotion 
will allay heat and irritation. The pa- 
tient must drink freely of tea, bran tea, or 
warm barley water, and this is a neces- 
sary part of the treatment, which must 
never be neglected. The vesicles must 
be kept lightly covered with pure, un- 
adulterated wheat flour; when the in- 
flammatory symptoms run high, the diet 
must consist of light nourishing food, such 
as sago, arrowroot, bread pudding, and 
such like things ; but in those cases 
where symptoms of irritation prevail, 
a more generous diet, such as animal 
broths, ought to be allowtHi. 

I Spirit Fa^/t.— Half a <:ill of spirits of 



FAMILY MEDICAL GUIDE. 



559 



wine, or a gill of brandy, added to a pint 
of water, makes this wash useful in al- 
laying the pain of extensive bruises. 

Plummer's Pill^ for Eruptions on the 
Skin. — Calomel and antimony, of each, 
one drachm ; guaiacum powder, two 
drachms. 

Useful Mixture for DiarrhcBa in In- 
fants. — Carbonate of magnesia, half a 
drachm ; rhubarb, in powder, twenty 
grains ; dill water, three ounces ; aroma- 
tic spirit of ammonia, thirty drops ; su- 
gar, teaspoonful. Mix : Two teaspoon- 
fuls may be given two or three times a 
day. 

Ooulard Lotion.^ or Lead WasTi.^ may 
be made by dissolving one drachm of 
sugar of lead in a pint of soft water. 
Some persons are very fond of using this 
wash, with the addition of spirits of 
wine, as an evaporate ; but I do not like 
it, for it renders the skin very dry and 
harsh, and its sedative virtue acting 
through unbroken skin, is not of much 
value. Under other cifcumstances it is 
very often useful. 

When used as a wash for the eyes, 
two grains of the sugar of lead are to be 
dissolved in two table-spoonfuls of water. 

Bran Tea. — A very cheap and useful 
drink in colds, fevers, and restlessness 
from pain. Put a handful of bran in a 
pint and a half of cold water, let it boil 
rather more than half an hour, then 
strain it, and, if desired, flavor with su- 
gar and lemon-juice ; but it is a pleasant 
drink without any addition. 

Electuary for Scorhutic Eruptions. — 
Peruvian bark, powdered, half an ounce ; 
aromatic confection, half an ounce ; syrup 
of oranges, sufficient quantity to mix the 
bark and confection ; and take the size 
of a nutmeg, three times a day, in a glass 
of seidlitz or soda water. 

Draught for Hysteric Patients. — Cam- 
phor mixture, one ounce ; foetid spirit of 
ammonia, two drachms. 



Fe'cer Draught. — Almond mixture, one 
ounce ; carbonate of potass, twenty 
grains ; syrup of poppies, one drachm. 
Pour into this a table-spoonful of lemon 
juice, and drink while eifervesciiig. 

Ointments. — The base of all ointments 
is grease, and they are used for dressing 
wounds and sores, to prevent the stick- 
ing of the lint or linen with which they 
are covered, and protect them from the 
air ; the most simple kinds serve this 
purpose best; but sometimes medicine 
of various kinds is mixed up with grease, 
to form ointments, through the means 
of which the medicine acts on the sur- 
face of the sore. 

Simple Ointment is made by melting 
in a pipkin by the side of the fire, with- 
out ioiling, one part of yellow or white 
wax, and two parts of hog's lard, without 
salt or olive oil. 

Resin Ointment or Yellow Basilicon is 
composed of two ounces of yellow wax, 
five ounces of white resin, and seven 
ounces of hog's-lard ; these must be 
slowly melted together, and stirred con- 
stantly with a stick, till completely 
mixed. 

This ointment is sometimes used in 
treating scalds and burns ; also for 
dressing blisters, when it is wished to 
keep up a discharge from them for a few 
days. This is a stimulating ointment. 

Calamine Ointment, or Turner''s Ge- 
rate.^ consists of half a pound of yellow 
wax, and a pint of olive oil, which are to 
be melted together ; this being done, 
half a pound of calamine powder is to be 
sifced in, and stirred till the whole be 
completely mixed. 

This is an excellent ointment for stim- 
ulating sluggish wounds or soi-es. 

Developjment of the Ltings. — Multi- 
tudes, and especially ladies in easy circum- 
stances, contract a vicious and destruc- 
tive mode of breathing, not carrymg the 
breath half way down the chest, and 



660 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



scarcely expanding the lower portions of 
the chest at all. Children that move 
about a great deal in the open air, and are 
in no way laced, breathe deep and full in 
the bottom of the chest, and every part 
of it. The lungs give us the power of 
action, and the more exercise we take, 
especially out of doors, the larger the 
lungs become, and the less liable to dis- 
ease. In all occupations that require 
standing, keep the person straight. If at 
table, let it be high, raised up nearly to 
the armpits, so as not to require you to 
stoop ; you will find the employment 
much easier ; while the form of the 
chest and symmetry of the figure will re- 
main perfect. 

The Nettle Rash. — This disease takes 
its name from its being attended by an 
eruption similar to what is produced by 
the stinging of nettles. In some cases it is 
accompanied with large wheals or bumps, 
which appear of a sohd nature, without 
any cavity or head, containing either wa- 
ter or other fluid. Nothing is so effica- 
cious in this disorder as half a teaspoon- 
ful of magnesia, and the same quantity of 
cream of tartar, mixed in half a teacupful 
of milk, an hour before breakfast, and 
repeated as required. 

Sx>rain. — To treat a spraia properly, 
it should be kept perfectly at rest ; and, 
if it be of the ankle or knee, the patient 
must lie in bed, or on a sofa. Warm, 
moist flannels should be repeatedly ap- 
plied for some hours, and a bread-and- 
water poultice on going to bed. These 
should be continued for some days, and 
no attempt made to use the joint. If the 
pain be very severe, and it continues so 
for the first or following days, leeches 
may be apphed, and repeated if necessary. 
Some persons are fond of putting on a 
vinegar poultice at once ; but this is bet- 
ter left alone till the tenderness has sub- 
sided, and there remains only a little pain 
and stiflness in the joint. Then a vine- 



gar poultice is a very good application, 
as it produces a diversion of the inflam- 
mation going on in the ligaments, by bring- 
ing out a crop of pimples on the skin, at 
a time when the pressure of rubbing in 
any stimulating lotion cannot be borne. 

When the pain has entirely ceased, the 
joint must not be carelessly used ; and, 
if it be the knee or ankle sprained, walk- 
ing till the joints become weak and ache 
must be most carefully avoided, as ir- 
reparable mischief is thereby very often 
caused. 

A joint often swells a long time after 
a sprain ; under which circumstances it is 
best to bind it up with straps of soap- 
plaster or a roller. 

Excellent Medicine for Rheumatism. — 
Powdered gum guaiacum, eight grains ; 
flour of sulphur, two drachms ; powder- 
ed rhubarb, fifteen grains ; cream of tar- 
tar, one drachm ; powdered ginger, thirty 
grains ; powdered nutmeg, eight grains. 

To be made into an electuary, with two 
ounces of clarified honey ; a teaspoonful 
to be taken night and morning. 

For Sprains and Bruises^ especially 
where the parts are discolored with blood 
underneath the skin, and for rheumatic 
swelling of the joints : — Vinegar, one 
pint ; distilled water, half a pint , recti- 
fied spirits, one and a half pints ; cam- 
phor, two ounces. 

Mix the vinegar and water, dissolve 
the camphor in the spirit of wine, and 
then put them all together. 

For sprains, bruises, and other in- 
juries, when the skin is not broken, car- 
bonate of ammonia, two ounces ; vinegar, 
two pints ; proof spirit, three pints. 

Mix the ammonia with the vinegar ; 
when the efiervescence ceases, add the 
spirit. In inflammation of the joints of 
some standing, this is mixed with linseed 
meal, and applied as a poultice, twice 
a-day. 
Aperient Electuary. --K very useful fam- 



FAMILT MEDICAL GUIDE. 



561 



ily medicine, particularly good for those 
who ai'e troubled with asthma or rheu- 
matism. One ounce of senna powder, 
half an ounce of flour of sulphur, two 
drachms of powdered ginger, half a 
drachm of saffron powder, four ounces of 
honey. The size of a nutmeg to be taken 
night and morning. 

For Heartburn. — Carbonate of mag- 
nesia, ten grains ; carbonate of soda, five 
grains ; ginger in powder, five grains ; 
liquorice in powder, fifteen grains. Take 
as a powder two or three times during 
the day. 

Zinc Ointment is made by rubbing well 
together one ounce of oxide of zinc, and 
six ounces of hog's lard. This ointment 
is useful for chilblains ; it is also com- 
monly used for dressing the sores re- 
maining after scalds and burns, to absorb 
the great discharge which generally fol- 
lows ; and it is a very good application to 
cracked skin, from which a watery fluid 
oozes and irritates the neighboring skin. 

Leeches. — Leeches should be kept in a 
cool place, in a stone or glass jar, filled 
with soft water, and tied over with coarse 
muslin to prevent their escape, though it 
allows them air. The water should be 
changed only when it begins to get foul, 
as too frequent disturbing destroys them. 
The part on which they are to be ap- 
plied should be carefully wiped with a 
cool moist cloth, so as to leave it damp. 
If they do not take readily, the part may 
be moistened with a little sugar and wa- 
ter, or milk. But if this does not an- 
swer, the skin may be gently scratched 
with a needle-point, till the blood comes, 
and then they will take. If it be wished 
to put the leeches as near as possible on 
one spot, the best plan is to put them all 
in the deep part of a pill-box, or in a 
small wine-glass, which is to be turned 
down on the part. If you wish them to 
spread over a large surface, as upon one 
of the hmbs or the stomach, they must 



be put on singly and by hand, which is 
often very tedious and tiresome work. 
They should then be held tightly by the 
tail, wrapped in a piece of wet rag, so 
that they may be less inconvenienced by 
the heat of the hand ; and if the leech do 
not soon fix, it is best to put it again into 
the water to cool itself, and after apply- 
ing others, to try it again. It is always 
best to have more leeches than the num- 
ber directed, in case some will not bite. 

When the proper number have been 
applied, they should be left quite alone, 
or they are apt to unfix, and, wandering 
about, are of no further use. When they 
have sucked their fiU, they generally drop 
off", and should then be put in a plate 
with a little salt, which quickly makes 
them throw up the blood ; and, as soon 
as they have emptied themselves, they 
should be put into plenty of fresh cold 
water, so that they may get free from the 
salt, for if left in it, or if too much he 'put 
on them, they contract violently, and die 
almost immediately. 

After tbe leeches have come off", the 
bleeding from the wounds is to be en- 
couraged, by first quickly sponging off" 
whatever clotted blood there may be, and 
then covering the part with a warm 
bread-and-water poultice, which must be 
changed every half hour, so long as it 
may be thought necessary to keep up the 
bleeding. This is much better than leav- 
ing the surface exposed, and mopping 
with a warm sponge, which is very fa- 
tiguing to the patient, besides exposmg 
him to the danger of taking cold. 

If a leech-bite continue bleeding for 
some hours, and the person, more espe- 
cially if an infant, begins to be very faint, 
and the countenance and lips pallid and 
cold, like marble, no time must be lost in 
stopping the bleeding. 

This is done by pressure with the fin- 
ger ; but, if that fail, by applying caustic, 
or by runnmg a moderate-sized darning 
needle into the skin on one side of the 



562 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



bite, and bringing its point well out on 
the other side. The whole \j^ound is 
thus lifted up, and a piece of silk or 
strong thread, is then to be wound round 
and round the bite, under the two ends 
of the needle. This will raise it up like 
a small spot, and generally stops the 
bleeding very effectually. In four days 
cut the silk and draw out the needle 
carefully, and there the matter usually 
ends. But in a peculiar state of consti- 
tution, sometimes even after the removal 
of the needle and thread, the bleeding 
will continue. Nothing then remains, 
but to touch the bottom of the wound 
with a bit of thin iron wire heated 
white-hot, which never fails to stop the 
bleeding. Though this may seem a very 
horrible proceeding, it is not very pain- 
ful if the iron be white-hot, as it destroys 
sensation in an instant ; but whether it 
give pain or not is a matter of no con- 
sequence, as it is the only sure mode of 
saving the patient. 

Pimjyles. — A weak solution of sugar of 
lead or sulphate of zinc may be used as 
a wash ; if not effective, try — camphorated 
spirit, two drachms, corrosive sublimate 
of mercury, one grain, rose water or al- 
mond water half a pint, to be applied 
night and morning. When there is great 
irritability of the skin, a decoction of the 
woody nightshade may be used instead 
of the rose or almond-water. If pimples 
arise from the condition of the blood, 
then cooling purgatives must be taken. 
A Plummer's pill at night, and a tea- 
spoonful of decoction of Sarsaparilla 
twice a day with salts and senna once a 
week, are excellent medicines. 

For GhicTcen-Pox. — Let the patient 
partake freely of water or cooling drinks, 
as thirst is always an attendant on the 
disease, and gentle laxatives should be 
occasionally given,— a teaspoonful of 
lenitive electuary with a little milk of 
sulphur in it, is all that is generally re- 



quired ; but should febrile symptoms run 
high, it may be advisable to take two or 
three saline draughts during the day. 
The following is a recipe for an excellent 
saline, to be drunk while effervescing. 
Twenty grains of carbonate of soda dis- 
solved in a tumbler containing two table- 
spoonfuls of water ; add two teaspoon- 
fuls of lump-sugar rolled ; then put a 
dessert-spoonful of lemon-juice into a 
wine-glass (or fifteen grains of citric 
acid dissolved in one table-spoonful of 
water.) Pour it into the tumbler and 
drink it while the effervescence is taking 
place. 

Croup. — The cause of this disease is a 
morbid secretion of thick mucus in 
the trachea (windpipe), adhering so 
firmly to its sides as to impede respira- 
tion. 

A warm bath should immediately be 
administered, and an emetic given as 
soon as possible ; say, ten drops of anti- 
monial wine for a child of three years of 
age, and repeated every quarter of an 
hour, until effectual, and according to the 
age and strength of the patient : a blister 
should be applied across the throat, the 
sufferer being made to inhale the vapor 
of warm water with vinegar in it, and 
kept nearly upright in bed. A doctor 
should be procured as soon as possible. 

Children liable to this disease should 
be warmly clad, wearing flannel next the 
skin, and an emetic given upon the ear- 
liest appearance of the attack. 

Elder-flower Ointment is the mildest, 
blandest, and most cooling ointment, as 
the old women term it, which can be 
used, and is very suitable for anointing 
the face or neck, when sun-burnt. It is 
made of fresh Elder-flowers stripped from 
the stalks, two pounds of which are sim- 
mered in an equal quantity of hog's lard 
till they become crisp, after wliich the 
ointra?ut, whilst fluid, is strained through 
a coarse sieve. 



FAMILY MEDICAL GUIDE. 



663 



Chilblains. — The mode of prevention 
of chilblains will be at once perceived, 
viz. : — To protect the parts most liable 
to the attack (hands and feet) from 
sudden alternations, either from cold to 
heat, or from heat to cold. To keep the 
constitution in such a healthy state, as 
to make all parts possess such vitaiity as 
to be able to resist slight alternations in 
temperature. 

Woollen stockings or socks, and warm 
boots and shoes, should be worn in the 
street. Warm leather gloves are better 
for the hands than woollen ones, through 
which the dry frosty air is apt to pierce 
and chap the hands. Tight wristbands, 
tight garters, and boots that lace or but- 
ton tightly about the ankles, must be 
avoided. The most frequent cause of 
chilblain is the warming of numhed 
hands or feet at the fire. A good con- 
stitutional remedy is small doses of tar- 
trate of antimony wine, which constringe 
the enlarged vessels, A drachm of the 
wine may be added to half a pint of 
water, in which a drachm of saltpetre has 
been dissolved. Dose : for an adult one 
or two table-spoonfuls axevj four hours ; 
for a child, one or two teaspooufuls three 
times a day. It should not be given in 
such doses as to produce vomiting. The 
head, neck, and chest, should be washed 
in cold water every morning, and brisk 
exercise taken at regular hours. 

Wash the hands in cold water every 
three hours, and lather well with Wind- 
sor soap. When the hands are nearly 
dried with the towel, pour a little eau-de- 
Cologne, or milk of roses, into the palm 
of one hand, and rub it over the whole of 
both. 

A leech is a useful remedy to unload 
the overcharged blood-vessels ; or the 
part may be pricked with a needle, or 
punctured with a lancet ; in such cases a 
soft bread-and-water poultice should be 
kept on diu-ing the night, applied warm, 
so as to encourage the flow of blood. 



Household Remedies for Chilblains. — 
The following are among the most ap- 
proved of the domestic remedies, or pal- 
liatives : — 

Take half an ounce of white wax, ox 
marrow one ounce, hog's lard two ounces ; 
melt these ingredients slowly over a fire 
in a pipkin, and mix them well together ; 
then strain through a linen cloth.. Before 
going to bed, spread the ointment upon 
the parts affected, feet or hands, taking 
care to wrap them well up. The appli- 
cation should be made as soon as the 
first attacks are felt. 

Lemon juice rubbed on the inflamed 
parts is said to stop the itching. A sliced 
onion dipped in salt has the same effect, 
but makes the feet tender. 

Strong white mustard, pounded and 
mixed with water to the consistence of 
thick cream, rubbed on every night, let- 
ting it dry on the chilblain, and washing 
it off" in the morning with rain water. 

Encourage children to use the sMjjping 
rope regularly during cold weather. This 
is a capital prevention, together with re- 
gularly washing and rubbing the feet. 

Aperient for Children. — Gingerbread 
made with oatmeal instead of flour is a 
very useful aperient for children. 

Sjjring Aperients ; for children, no- 
thing is better than : — 1. Brimstone and 
molasses ; to each teacupful of this, when 
mixed, add a teaspoonful of cream of 
tartar. As this sometimes produces 
sickness, the following may be used : — 
2. Take of tartrate of soda one drachm 
and a half, powdered jalap and powdered 
rhubarb each fifteen grains, ginger two 
grains. Mix. Dose for a child above 
five 3'ears, one small teaspoonful ; above 
ten years, a large teaspoonful ; above fif- 
teen, two ; and for a person above twenty} 
three teaspooufuls, or the whole. 

Aperient Fills. — To some adults all 
liquid medicines produce such nausea 
that pills are the only form in which 



564 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



laxative medicines can be exhibited ; the 
following is a usual formula : — Take of 
compound rhubarb pill, a drachm and 
one scruple ; of powdered ipecacuanha, 
six grains, and of extract of hyoscyamus 
one scruple. Mix and beat into a mass, 
and divide into twenty-four pills. Take 
one. or two, or if of a very costive habit, 
three at bed-time. 

Infants' Aperient. — Take of rhubarb 
five grains, magnesia three grains, white 
sugar a scruple, manna five grains ; mix. 
Dose, varying from a piece half the size 
of a sweet-pea to a piece the size of an 
ordinary pea. 

For Weak Eyes. — Two grains acetate 
of zinc, in two ounces of rosewater ; filter 
the liquor carefully, and wash the eyes 
night and morning. 

A Simple Vapor Bath. — It is not ge- 
nerally known that the settlers in the 
remote parts of the West make use 
of the following simple mode of pro- 
curing a vapor bath : The patient is en- 
veloped in blankets, which are closely 
fastened about the neck, leaving the head 
exposed. The patient sits on a chair j 
under the chair is placed a basin or deep 
dish, with half a pint of alcohol, whiskey 
or gin which is ignited. The blankets 
lap over each other, enveloping the 
whole, and are closed to the floor by 
other blankets, &c., as much as possible. 
In a very few minutes the patient is in 
a profuse perspiration ; he is then imme- 
diately put to bed between warm 
blankets. 

Ear Ache. — Sometimes ear-ache is con- 
nected with chronic ulceration in the in- 
ternal and external part of the ear, when 
injections of warm water and soap are 
advisable. In this case there is some- 
times a constant fofetid discharge, for 
which the following mixture has been 
recoinraended: — Take of ox-gall, three 
drachms j balsam of Peru, one drachm. 



Mix. A drop or two put into the ear 
with a little cotton. 

Pains after Exertion. — It is not gen- 
erally known to pedestrians that the 
pains in the knees and legs, which usually 
follow after a long excursion, and which 
continue with some persons for two or 
three days after, may be prevented or 
considerably lessened, by bathing the 
parts affected in cold spring water, im- 
mediately before going to bed. Care 
should be taken if the feet be dipped 
in the water, to afterwards dry them 
thoroug"hly with a rough towel. 

For a Cough. — Quarter of a pound of 
linseed ; quarter of a pound of raisins ; 
two ounces of stick liquorice ; two quarts 
of soft water, to be boiled until reduced 
to hah" the quantity. When strained, 
add a quarter of a pound of brown candy, 
pounded ; one table-spoonful of good old 
rum, one table-spoonful of lemon juice, 
or vinegar. A cupful to be taken on 
going to bed, and more frequently if re- 
quired. To be warmed. 

Nipple Liniment, hy Dr. Sigerlundi. — 
Aqueous extract of opium, one grain ; 
Fresh limewater, three drachms ; oil 
sweet almonds, fresh and cold pressed, 
three drachms. 

Mix the whole, and preserve in a cov- 
ered pot. The label should direct the 
application of this liniment by means oi 
very fine lint, and that the nipples be 
covered with a piece of skin spread with 
wax, a hole being left open in the centre 
to permit the free passage of the milk. 

Pomade {for healing slight tumors.) — 
White pitch, pure, one pound ; resin, one 
pound ; yellow wax, one pound ; gum 
ammoniac, twelve ounces ; oil of hem- 
lock, four ounces. 

Spread upon sheepskin, and apply the 
plaster to the sore. 

Pomade Souveraine, ly Laforet {/or 
the Cure of Coriis.)--TskQ one ounce black 



FAMILY ]MEDICAL GUIDE. 



565 



pitch, half an ounce galbanum. and one 
scruple of sal ammoniac, dissolved in vi- 
negar ; add one and a half drachm dia- 
chylon. Take only sufficient to cover 
the corn, and spread it upon a piece of 
sheepskin. After some days remove the 
plas'^er, and the corn comes with it. 

Cera Fortif ant {for tTie Nails.) — Oil of 
lentise, half an ounce ; salt, half a drachm; 
resin, one scruple ; alum, one scruple ; 
wax, one scruple. 

English Court- Plaster. — Stretch upon 
a frame a piece of thin black silk, and 
with a camel's-hair brush pass over it 
three or more coats of isinglass, dissolv- 
ed in boiling water. To give the silk an 
agreeable odor, when applying the last 
coat mix in a little compound tincture of 
benzoin with the isinglass. 

The color can be varied by taking silk 
of any desired shade. The intervals 
between the application of the coats 
should be sufficiently long to permit a 
thorough drying of each. 

Collodion. — This is a liquid adhesive 
plaster, to be applied with the brush 
upon sores and cuts. It is made by dis- 
solving gun-cotton in rectified ether, 
mixed with one-eighth its bulk of strong 
alcohol. A slight addition of Venice 
turpentine increases its adhesiveness. 

Toothache Collodion. — This is the plain 
collodion, holding in solution one grain of 
sulphate of morphia to every ounce of 
liquid. It is almost a specific for the 
toothache, which results from an exposed 
nerve. 

Blistering Collodion. — The etherial ex- 
tract of cantharides, dissolved in collo- 
dion, forms a most convenient, active, and 
clearly blistering liquid. If the blister 
is opened at the side, the filna of collo- 
dion remains unbroken ; and, by thus 
protecting the sore, obviates the neces- 
sity of dressing it with ointment. 

For Burns. — Apply cotton wool dip- 
ped in oil as soon as possible, and keep 
36 



it on till the fire is entirely out, which 
will usually take from two days to a 
week. 

For a Cut. — "Wash off the blood in 
cold water, and bind it up with a clean 
cotton bandage ; if it inclines to bleed, 
put on scraped lint, after bringing the 
edges of the wound together as closely 
as possible, and bind it rather tight. Or 
use sticking-plaster. 

When a Nail or Fin has been run into 
the foot., instantly bind on a rind of salt 
pork ; if the foot swell, bathe it in a 
strong decoction of wormwood, then bind 
on another rind of pork, and keep quiet 
till the wound is well. The lockjaw is 
often caused by such wounds, if neglected. 

For a Bruise or Sprain. — Bathe the 
part in cold water, till you can get ready 
a decoction of wormwood. This is one of 
the best remedies for sprains and bruises. 
When the wormwood is fresh gathered, 
pound the leaves and wet them either 
with water or vinegar, and bind them on 
the bruise ; when the herb is drj^, put it 
into cold water, and let it boil a short 
time, then bathe the bruise and bind on 
the herb. 

Alwaj's keep cotton wool, scraped lint 
and wormwood on hand. 

The Ear-ache is usually caused by a 
sudden cold. Steam the heac^ over hot 
herbs, bathe the feet, and put into the ear 
cotton wool wet with sweet oil and par- 
egoric. 

Prescription for Camphor CaJce, — 
Scrape into an earthen vessel one ounce 
and a quarter of spermaceti and one 
ounce and a half of white wax ; add six 
drachms of powdered camphor, and four 
table-spoonfuls of best olive oil. Let it 
stand near the fire until dissolved, stir- 
ring it well. 

Plaster for Pain in Side or Cough to 
le applied between the shoulders. — One 
ounce burgundy pitch, one ounce bees- 
wax, one ounce and a half of resin cnie 



566 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



ounce of gum camphor dissolved in two 
teaspoonfuls of brandy over a slow fire. 
To be kept in tin boxes, and when used 
spread on kid. 

The Cure of Intemperate Habits. — A 
notion prevails that a person addicted 
to alcohol stimulants cannot at once leave 
them off without danger of illness, or 
great and long-continued suffering. Tltis 
is an error. A cuj) of tea or coffee will 
supply the needed tonic when a sense of 
exhaustion is felt, and we have the au- 
thority of an emiment physician for stat- 
ing that no constitutional injiu-y will be 
suffered from immediate and total absti- 
nence. The uncomfortable feelings will 
subside in forty eight-hours, and will be 
enilrely over in a fortnight. Any man 
who has firm resolution can break him- 
self at once of the fatal habit of drinking. 

Hair Dressing. — There are many per- 
sons whose hair is naturally dry and 
crisp, and in most families there is a 
want of some innocent and agreeable 
wash or dressing which may be used 
moderately and judiciously. The mix- 
ture which may be regarded as the most 
agreeal>le, cleanly, and safe is composed 
of cologne spirit and pure castor-oil. 
The following is a good formula : — 

Pure, fresh castor-oil, two ounces. Co- 
logne spirit (ninety-five per cent), six- 
teen ounfes. 

The oil is freely dissolved in the spirit, 
and the solution is clear and beautiful. 
It mny hi perfumed In any way to suit 
the fimcy of the purchaser. The oil of 
the castor-bean has for many years been 
employed to dress the hair, both among 
the savage and c viKzad nations ; and 
it possesses properties which admirably 
adapt It to this use. It does not rapidly' 
dry ; and no gummy, offensive residuum 
remains after taking on the chemical 



changes which occur in all oils upon ex- 
posure to hght and air. It is best dif- 
fused by the agency of strong spirit, in 
which It dissolves. The alcohol or spirit 
rapidly evaporates, and does not in the 
slightest degree Injure the texture of 
the hair. This preparation, for dressing 
the hair of children or ladies, will meet 
nearly or quite all requirements. A 
cheap and very good dressing is made 
by dissolving four ounces of perfectly 
pure, dense gl^'ceriiie in twelve ounces 
of rose-water. Glycerine evaporates on- 
ly at high temperatures ; and therefore, 
under its influence, the hair is retained 
in a moi-t condition for a long time. As 
a class, the vegetable oils are better for 
the hair than animal oils. They do not 
become rancid and offensive so readily, 
and they are subject to different and less 
objectionable chemical changes. Olive- 
oil and that derived from the cocoanut 
have been largely employed, but they 
are interior in every respect to that from 
the castor-bean. 

It is doubtful If any mixture or sub- 
stance has ever been devised which will 
restore hair to a bald head. A great 
many washes and embrocations are man- 
ufactured, aU of wh'ch usually fail to 
meet the end desired. The falling of 
the hair is the result of diseased action 
in the hair folhcles, or to a morbid con- 
dition of the entire scalp. Still, mix- 
tures containing ammonia, vinegar, soap, 
and vesicating tinctures, are sometimes 
thought to prove beneficial. The fall of 
the hair will usua ly cease from natural 
causes in a short time, the germinal ves- 
sels taking on healthy action spontane- 
ously. The frequent washing of the head 
in tepid or cold water, and friction with 
a brush er coarse towel, is to be com- 
mended. 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS 



To take Stains out of Linen. — For acid 
stains, wet the part, and lay on it salt 
of wormwood ; then rub it, and hold the 
part over a hghted match, for the sul- 
phurous gas ; or, tie up pearlash in the 
stained part ; scrape soap into cold water, 
for a lather, and boil the linen till the 
stain disappear. 

Stains of wine or fruit that have been 
long in the linen may be removed by 
rubbing the part on each side with yellow 
soap, then laying on a mixture of thick 
starch in cold water, rubbing it well in, 
and exposing the linen to the sun and 
air till the stain comes out. The process 
may be renewed, and, when dry, sprinkle 
the part with water. Stains may be 
taken out by dipping the linen in sour 
buttermilk and drying in a hot sun. 
Then wash in cold water and dry it 
several times a day. 

A certain way of extracting fruit or 
wine stains from table linen is to tie up 
some cream of tartar in the stained part 
(so as to form a sort of bag), and then to 
put the linen into a lather of soap and 
cold water, and boil it awhile. Then 
transfer it wet to lukewarm suds, wash 
and rinse it well, and dry and iron it. 
The stains will disappear during the pro- 
cess. Another way is to mix, in equal 
quantities, soft soap, slaked lime, and 
pearl-ash. Rub the stain with this pre- 
paration, and expose the linen to the sun 
with the mixture plastered on it. If 



necessary, repeat the application. As 
soon as the stain has disappeared, wash 
out the linen immediately, as it will be 
injured if the mixture is left in it. 

Iron moulds may be wet, laid on a hot 
water plate, and a little salt of lemon 
applied. Wet and renew the process. 
Be careful not to have the application 
too strong. Oxalic acid will efiectuaUy 
remove the stains. Mildew may be taken 
out by mixing soft soap with powdered 
starch, half as much salt, and the juice 
of a lemon ; lay it on both sides of the 
part, and leave it on the grass day and 
night. To prevent flannels from shrink- 
ing or losing their color, put them into a 
pail the first time of washing, and pour 
•boiling water on them, letting them lie 
till cold. 

Remove ink spots by soaking the part 
in milk immediately ; then wash out in 
cold water without soap. 

To destroy Oricl'ets. — Put Scotch snuff 
upon their holes. Cockroaches may be 
banished by red wafers. Paint is destruc- 
tive to all insects, and so is lime. 

Polish for TaUes. — One pint of linseed 
oil, half a pint of turpentine, two ounces 
of beeswax, sixpence worth of white 
rosin. Boil the mixture in a saucepan, 
and put it in a bottle for use. 

Varnish for MaJiogamj. — One pint of 
linseed oil, a wine glass of spirits of tur- 
pentine ; simmer it slowly till near coming 



568 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



to a boil. Take all the stains out of the 
mahogany, and clean it perfectly. When 
dry brush it with a feather dipped in the 
bottled mixture. Rub it some time with 
soft linen ; then take a clean housecloth 
and rub oif the oil, continue rubbing till 
the table would not soil a cambric hand- 
kerchief. 

Instead of coTcring your glasses and 
pictures with mushn, cover the frames 
only with cheap yellow cambric, neatly 
put on, and as near the color of the gilt 
as possible. This leaves the glasses 
open, and is a barrier to dust and flies. 
When faded, it can be re-colored with 
saffron tea. 

When mattresses become hard and 
bunchy, rip them, take out the hair, pull 
it thoroughly, let it lie a day or two to 
air, wash the tick, lay in the hair as 
light and even as possible, and stitch it 
down as before. The mattress will be 
as good as new. 

Britannia ware should be first rubbed 
gently with a woollen cloth and sweet oil, 
then washed in wai^m suds and rubbed 
with soft leather and whiting. Thus 
treated, it will retain its beauty to the 
last. 

To clean Sponges. — WTien very foul- 
wash them in diluted tartaric acid, rinsing 
them afterwards in water ; it will make 
them very soft and white. Be careful to 
dilute the acid well, as it is very corrosive 
and therefore should be weak. 

For outside Paint. — Put ten gallons 
of raw linseed oil in a kettle over a slow 
fire, and let it simmer gently. Add four 
ounces sugar of lead. Stir up, and when 
cold, it is fit to use as boiled oil or var- 
nish. 

Take of yellow ochre fifteen pounds, 
of white lead ten pounds, of burnt umber 
one pound, of Indian red two pounds. 
This will make a beautiful chocolate 
color. Add to it half a pound of dry 
ground litharge. 



Stir it up well, and when well stirred 
add oil according to judgment — about 
two gallons. 

Green tea is good to restore rusty 
silk. It should be boiled in iron — a cup- 
ful to three quarts. The silk should not 
be wrung, but ironed damp. 

Lime sifted through coarse muslin, and 
stirred pretty thick with white of egg, 
makes a strong cement for glass or china. 
Plaster of Paris, pulverized, is still bet- 
ter, and should be stirred by the spoonful 
as it is wanted. 

The best way to clean gold is to wash 
it in warm suds made of delicate soap, 
with ten or fifteen drops sal volatile in 
it. This makes jewelry very brilliant. 

Rye paste is more adhesive than anj 
other, and is much improved by adding 
a little pounded alum while it is boiling. 
Straw matting should be washed in 
salt and water, and dried with a coarse 
towel. The salt prevents their turning 
yellow. 

Skimmed milk and water, with a bit 
of glue in it, heated scalding hot, is ex- 
cellent to restore old, rusty, black Italian 
crape. If clapped and pulled dry, it will 
look as well as new. 

Washleather gloves should be washed 
in clean tepid suds. 

If you are troubled to get soft water 
for washing, fill a tub or barrel half 
full of wood ashes, and fill it with water 
to make lye. A gallon of strong lye put 
into a great kettle of hard water will 
make it soft as rain water. Pearlash 
or potash is used, but costs something, 
and is apt to injure the texture of the 
cloth. 

In May and June, the little millers 
that lay moth eggs, begin to appear. 
Brush your woollens and beat out your 
furs, and pack them away in a dark 
place covered with linen, pepper, red 
cedar chips, tobacco, and best of all 



camphor, or any strong spicy smell, will 
keep moths out of your chests and 
drawers. Sew the things tightly up in 
linen, leaving no room for the insect to 
enter. • 

Save phials and bottles ; apothecaries 
and grocers will give something for 
them. 

Woollens should be washed in very hot 
suds, and not rinsed; lukewarm water 
shrinks them. Silk should be washed in 
water almost cold ; hot water turns it 
yellow. It may be washed in suds made 
of white soap ; but no soap should be put 
on it; It will not do to smooth all silk 
with a hot iron ; either rub it dry with a 
soft cloth, or put it between towels, and 
press it with weights. 

To lake spots out of Cloth. — Sal am- 
moniac, one ounce ; rectified spirit, two 
wine-glasses ftill ; aqua distillata, one and 
a half pints. Apply with a sponge. 

Eecipe for Inlc. — Half a pint of good 
stale beer, two ounces of galls, half an 
ounce of copperas, half an ounce of gum 
arable pulverized, a quarter of an ounce 
of rock alum. This is to be kept in a 
pitcher close to the fire for a week, fre- 
quently stirred with a stick, and slightly 
covered with a large cork. The ink will 
never mould nor lose its color or sub- 
stance. It will bear half as much beer 
for future use. If it thickens, thin it 
with beer. 

To take an impression from a Writing. 
— Add a little sugar to the ink you write 
with, then lay a sheet of thin unsized 
paper, damped with a sponge, upon the 
writing, and pass over it, very lightly, 
a flat smoothing-iron, moderately heated. 

To sweeten Casks. — When musty it is 
best to unhead large casks, and white- 
wash them vdth quicklime. Or they 
may be matched with sulphur mixed with 
a little nitrate of potash, and afterwards 
well washed. Small casks may be 



sweetened by washing them first with 
sulphuric acid, and then with clean 
water. 

To preserve Brass Ornaments. — Beat 
sal ammoniac into a fine powder, then 
moisten it with soft water, rubbing it on 
the ornaments, which must be heated over 
charcoal, and rubbed dry with bran and 
whiting. 

To color Harness. — The color of har- 
ness that has become rusty or brown by 
wear may be restored to a fine black, 
after the dirt has been sponged off". Boil 
logwood chips in three quarts of soft 
water, to which add three ounces of nut- 
galls finely powdered, and one ounce of 
alum ; simmer the whole together for 
half an hour, and it will be fit for use. 
A harness blacking is thus made : Melt 
two ounces of mutton suet with six 
ounces of beeswax, then add one ounce of 
indigo, finely powdered, six ounces of 
sugar-candy, dissolved in water, and two 
ounces of soft soap ; mix, and simmer 
over the 'fire, when add a gill of turpen- 
tine. Lay it on with a sponge, and then 

polish. 

t 
To preserve Polished Irons from Riist. 
' — Polished iron-work may be preserved 
from rust by a mixture of copal varnish 
with as much olive oil as will give it a 
degree of greasiness, adding as much spirit 
of turpentine as of varnish. The cast-iron 
work is best preserved by rubbing it 
with black-lead. But where rust has be- 
gun to make its appearance on grates or 
fire-irons, apply tripoU with half its quan- 
tity of sulphur, intimately mingled on a 
marble slab, and laid on with a piece of 
soft leather : or emery and oil may be ap- 
plied with excellent effect. 

To clean Kid Gloves. — First see that 
your hands are clean, then put on the 
gloves and wash them, as though you 
were washing your hands, in a basin of 
spirits of turpentine, until quite clean ; 



570 



THE PKACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEK. 



then hang them up in a warm place, or 
where there is a good current of air, 
which will carry off all the smell of the 
turpentine. This method was brought 
from Paris, and thousands of pounds 
have been made by it. 

To clean German Silver. — After using, 
it should be placed immediately in hot 
water, washed well, and wiped dry with 
a soft cloth. Once a week let it be wash- 
ed in soap-suds, and then cleaned with 
fine whiting, or prepared chalk, mixed 
with whiskey or spirits of wine, so as to 
make a paste, which should afterwards be 
brushed off. Should this metal become 
discolored, or spotted by vinegar or other 
acids, wash it first, and then clean it 
with sweet oil and powdered rotten- 
stone. 

Blaching. — The best blacking for pre- 
serving the leather of boots and shoes, 
and which will make it perfectly water- 
tight, is the following :— ^Take of yellow 
was one ounce and a half, of mutton suet 
four ounces and a half, horse turpentine 
half an ounce, ivory black three ounces ; 
melt first the wax, to which add the 
suet, and afterwards the horse turpen- 
tine ; when the whole is melted remove it 
from the fire ; mix in gradually the ivory 
black, constantly stirring till it is cold. 
This composition is sometimes run into 
moulds, and sold under the name of 
blacking balls ; when it is used it may be 
laid or rubbed upon a brush which should 
be warmed before the fire ; it is also the 
best blacking for every kind of harness ; 
when it is wantet in a large quantity, it 
may be gently melted in a ladle or pot 
over a chafing-dish with live coals. 

To preserve Picttire Frames. — Varnish 
the frames with water in which onions 
have been boiled. 

To clean a Carpet. — Beat the carpet 
free from dust, and lay it down. To two 
gallons of water put two ox-galls. Rub 
it on the carpet with a hand scrubbing- 
brush. 



To clean Sill: — Pare and slice thin 
three washed potatoes. Pour on them 
half a pint of boiling water, and let it 
stand till cold. Strain the water, and 
add an equal quantity of alcohol. Sponge 
the silk on the right side, and when half 
dry, iron it on the wrong side. The 
lightest colored silk may be cleaned and 
brightened by this process ; also cloth, 
velvet, or crape. To iron velvet — lay a 
damp towel over the bottom of a hot 
smoothing iron ; put on it the wrong side 
of the velvet, and pass a whisk brush 
over the pile till the surface is free from 
wrinkles. 

To renew scorched or irowned Linen. — 
This is an accident attributable entirely 
to the ignorance of the laundress, in not 
knowing how to regulate the heat of her 
irons. To remedy this: — Add to a 
quart of vinegar the juice of half a dozen 
large onions, about an ounce of soap rasp- 
ed down, a quarter of a pound of fullers' 
earth, one ounce of lime, and one ounce 
of pearlash, or any other strong alkali. 
Boil the whole until it is pretty thick, 
and lay some of it on the scorched part, 
suffering it to dry. Repeat this process 
for one or two washings. 

To extract grease spots from SilJcs, Mus- 
lins, &c. — Scrape French chalk, put it on 
the grease spot, and hold it near the fire, 
or over a warm iron or water-plate, filled 
with boiling water. The grease will melt, 
and the French chalk absorb it ; brush or 
rub it off; repeat if necessary. Camphene 
will remove grease also. 

To clean Marble. — Take two parts of 
common soda, one part of puinice-stone, 
and one part of finely powdered chalk ; 
sift it through a fine sieve, and mix it 
with water ; then rub it well all over the 
marble, and the stains will be removed ; 
then wash the marble over with soap and 
water, and it will be as clean as it was at 
first. 

To tahe oil and grease out ofBoa/rds, 
Marble, <&c. — Make a paste with fullers' 



MISCELLANEOUS EECEIPTS. 



571 



earth and hot water ; cover the spots 
therewith, let it dry on, and the next day- 
scour it off with soft or j-ellow soap. 

Or : — Make a paste with soft soap, 
fullers' earth, and a little pearlash, and 
use it as above. 

To clean BucTcsMn Gloves. — First wash 
in warm water and soap, until the dirt is 
removed ; then pull them out into their 
proper shape, or stretch them on wooden 
hands. Mix a little pipe-clay, or pipe- 
clay and yellow ochre, according to the 
color required, with vinegar or beer. 
Rub this over the outside of the gloves, 
and let them dry gradually in the shade ; 
or if in the house, not too near the fire. 
When about half dry, rub them well, and 
stretch them on the hand or wooden 
mould ; after they are rubbed and dried, 
brush them with a soft brush to get out 
the dust. Finally, iron the gloves with 
a smoothing iron moderately heated, 
taking the precaution to place a cloth or 
piece of paper over them, and they will 
look hke new. 

To make an efficacious and durable 
Paste. — Good and durable paste may be 
made with flour in the usual way, but 
rather thick, with a proportion of brown 
sugar and a small quantity of corrosive 
sublimate. A drop or two of the essen- 
tial oil of lavender, peppermint, anise, or 
bergamot, is a complete security against 
moulding. Paste made in this manner, 
if kept in a close covered pot, may be pre- 
served in a state fit for use at all times. 

To mahe Blue InTc. — Dissolve a small 
quantity of indigo in a little oil of vitriol, 
and add a suflBcient quantity of water, in 
which is dissolved some gum arabic. 

To remove Inh-stains from Printed 
Books, &c. — Procure a little oxalic acid, 
which dissolve in a small quantity of 
warm water, then slightly wet the stain 
with it, when it will disappear, leaving 
the text uninjured. 

To paint Silver Flowers on Silk. — 



Paint flowers, leaves, &c., on white silk, 
with a camel's-hair pencil dipped in a so- 
lution of nitrate of silver : immerse this 
while wet in a jar of sulphuric acid gas, 
by burning sulphur in a jar of atmos- 
pheric air. The drawing will have a beau- 
tiful silvery appearance. 

To remove Ink or Fruit Stains from 
the Fingers. — Cream of tartar, half an 
ounce ; powdered salt of sorrel, half an 
ounce — mix. This is what is sold for 
salt of lemons. 

To clean Tin Covers. — Boil some 
rottenstone and a small quantity of pre- 
pared whitmg in some sweet oil for two 
hours, till it acquires the consistency of 
cream. 

To perfume Linen. — Rose-leaves dried 
in the shade, or at about four feet from a 
stove, one pound ; cloves, caraway-seeds, 
and allspice, of each one ounce ; pound in 
a mortar, or grind in a mill ; dried salt, 
a quarter of a pound ; mix all these to- 
gether, and put the compound into little 
bags. 

To prevent Colored Things from 
Punning. — Boil a quarter of a pound of 
soap till nearly dissolved, then add a 
small piece of alum and boil with it. 
Wash the things in this lather, but do 
not soap them. If they require a second 
water, put alum to that also as well as to 
the rinsing and blue water. This will 
preserve them. 

To preserve Pencil Marks. — If you 
have anything drawn or written with 
a lead pencil that you wish to pre- 
serve from rubbing out, dip the paper 
into a dish of skimmed milk. Then dry 
it, and iron it quickly on the wrong side. 

To dry Plants for Preservation. — The 
following improved method of drying 
plants is the result of much experience : 
— The plants you wish to preserve should 
be gathered when the weather is dry, 
and after placing the ends in water, let 
them remain in a cool place tUl the next 



572 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPEE. 



day. When about to be submitted to 
the process of drying, place each plant 
between several sheets of blotting-paper, 
and iron it with a large smooth heater 
pretty strongly warmed, till all the moist- 
ure is dissipated. Colors may thus be 
fixed, which otherwise become pale, or 
nearly white. 

To wash White Silh Lace or Blonde. — 
Take a black bottle covered with clean 
linen or muslin, and wind the blonde 
round it, (securing the ends with a 
needle or thread,) not leaving the edge 
outward, but covering it as you proceed. 
Set the bottle upright in a strong cold 
lather of white soap and soft water, and 
place it in the sun, having gently rubbed 
the suds up and down on the lace. Keep 
it in the sun every day for a week, 
changing the lather daily, and always 
rubbing it slightly when you renew the 
suds. At the end of the week, take the 
blonde off the bottle, and (without rins- 
ing) pin it backward and forward on a 
large pillow. The pins should be of the 
smallest size. When quite dry, take it 
off, but do not starch, iron, or press it. 
Lay it in long loose folds, and put it away 
in a pasteboard box. Thread lace may 
be washed in the same manner. 

To clean Silver. — Dissolve two tea- 
spoonfuls of powdered alum in a quart of 
moderately strong lye, stir in a gill of soft 
soap, and remove the scum or dross that 
may rise to the surface. After washing 
the silver in hot water, take a sponge and 
cover every article with this mixture. 
Let the things rest about a quarter of an 
hour, frequently turning them. Next 
wash them off in warm soap-suds, and 
wipe them dry with a soft cloth. After- 
wards brighten them with rouge pow- 
der, or with whiting and spirits of wine. 

Preserving the Color of Dresses. — 
The colors of merinos, mousseline-de- 
Laines, ginghams, chintzes, printed lawns, 
&c., may be preserved by using water, 



that is only milk- warm ; making a lather 
with white soap, T)efore you put in the 
dress, instead of rubbing it on the ma- 
terial ; and stirring into a first and sec- 
ond tub of water a large tablespoonful 
of ox-gall, No colored articles should 
be allowed to remain long in the water. 
They must be washed fast, ,and then 
rinsed through cold waters. Into each 
rinsing water stir a teaspoonful of vine- 
gar, which will help to brighten the col- 
ors ; and after rinsing, hang 'them out 
immediately. If they cannot be conve- 
niently ironed at once, "let them hang tiU 
they are quite dry ; and then damp and 
fold them on i\ie folloioing day, a quar- 
ter of an hour before ironing. We need 
scarcely say that no colored articles 
should ever be boiled or scalded. 

To wash JRiiions, Silk HandTcerchiefsi 
(&c. — A good satin ribbon may be made 
to look very well by washing it first in 
cold water, to which add a few drops of 
spirits of wine ; then in a lather of white 
soap, and lukewarm water; afterwards 
rinse it in cold water, pull it even, and 
dry it gradually. When dry, stretch out 
the ribbon, and sponge it with a weak so- 
lution of isinglass or rice-water, to restore 
the stiffness and gloss. To iron the rib- 
bon, lay it within a sheet of clean smooth 
letter paper (the paper being both under 
and over it), and press it with a heated 
iron moved quickly. If the color is 
lilac, add a little dissolved pearlash to 
the rinsing water. If green, a little vine- 
gar. If pink, or blue, a few drops of oil 
of vitriol. If yellow, a little tincture of 
saffron. Other colors may be set by stir- 
ring a teaspoonful of ox -gall into the 
first water. If white, a saltspoonful of 
cream of tartar mixed with the soap- 
suds. Unfigured silk handkerchiefs and 
scarfs may be washed and ironed in the 
above manner. The proportion of spirits 
of wine is about a tablespoonful to a 
gallon of water. 

To clean White or Colored Kid Cloves. 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



573 



— Put the glove on your hand, then take 
a small piece of flannel, dip it in cam- 
phene, and well but gently rub it over the 
glove, taking care not to make it too wet. 
When the dirt is removed, dip the flannel 
(or another piece if that is become tlirt}') 
into pipe-clay and rub it over the glove ; 
take it off, and hang it up in a room to dry, 
and in a day or two very little smell will 
remain ; and if done carefully they will be 
almost as good as new. In colored ones, 
if yellow, use gamboge after the pipe- 
clay, and for other colors match it in dry 
paint. 

SympatJietic Inks. — These are prepara- 
tions used for writing on paper, the marks 
of which are invisible until acted upon hj 
some agent. They are frequently em- 
ployed in secret or plaj^ful correspond- 
ence. By heating the paper until it is 
nearly scorched, they may be rendered 
visible. 

Sulphate of copper and sal ammoniac 
equal parts, dissolved in water or onion 
juice, writes colorless, but turns yellow 
when heated. 

A weak infusion of galls turns black 
when moistened with weak copperas wa- 
ter. 

The diluted solutions of nitrate of sil- 
ver and terchloride of gold darken when 
exposed to the sunlight. 

Aquafortis, spirits of salts, oil of vitriol, 
common salt, or salpetre, dissolved in a 
large quantity of water, turn yellow or 
brown when heated. 

Solution of nitromuriate of cobalt turns 
green when heated, and disappears again 
on cooling. 

Solution of acetate of cobalt, to which 
a little nitre has been added, becomes 
irrtic-colored when heated, and disappears 
when cooling. 

To make a common Knife-Board. — Cov- 
er with thick buff leather, on which are 
put emery one part, crocus martis three 
parts, in very fine powder, mixed into a 



thick paste, with a little lard or sweet oil? 
and spread on the leather to the thick- 
ness of a shilling. It gives a far superior 
edge and polish to knives, and will not 
wear the knife near so much as the com- 
mon method of using brick-dust on a 
board; 

JJarness-makers' Jet.--Tske one drachm 
of indigo, a quarter of an ounce of isin- 
glass, half an ounce of soap, four ounces of 
glue, one pennyworth of logwood rasp- 
ings, and one quart of vinegar ; boil the 
whole together over a slow fire till re- 
duced to one pint. A small quantity is 
then to be taken up on a clean sponge, 
and thinly applied to harness, boots, &c. 
— taking care that they are previously 
weU cleaned. 

To restore the Color of Maliogany. — 
Wash well with soap and water, and then 
polish daily with the following oil: — 
Take half an ounce of alkanet root, cut 
small, and add to a pint of linseed oil ; 
when this has stood for a week^ add half 
an ounce of powdered gum arabic, and an 
ounce of shellac vai-nish ; let these stand 
in a bottle by the fire for a week, then 
strain. Rub well in. 

Cement for the Mouths of Corked 
Bottles. — Melt together a quarter of a 
pound of sealing wax, the same quantity 
of rosin, a couple of ounces of beeswax; 
When it froths, stir it with a tallow 
candle. As soon as it melts, dip the 
mouths of the corked bottles into it. This 
is an excellent thing to exclude the air 
from such things as are injured by being 
exposed to it. 

To take Impressions of Leaves. — A 
very beautiful and cheap way of taking 
impressions of leaves is to take a small 
quantity of bichromate of potash, (say 
a teaspoonful,) which may be had at 
any druggist's ; dissolve it in a saucer 
full of water, then pass the pieces of pa- 
per on which the impressions are to be 
taken through the solution, and while 



574 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



wet, press the leaves, &c., lightly upon 
it. and expose it to the sun, which should 
be shining powerfully. When perfectly 
drj', remove the leaves, and a perfect 
fac-simile will remain in a light lemon 
shade, while the rest of the paper will be 
of a dark brown tint. Bichrome, as it is 
gcnei'ally term, is in dark yellow crystals, 
which should be powdered previous to 
using it. 

To wash a White Lace Veil. — Put the 
veil into a strong lather of white soap, 
and very clear water, and let it simmer 
slowly for a quarter of an hour. Take 
it out and squeeze but not rub it. Rinse 
it in two cold waters, with a drop or two 
of liquid blue in the last. Have ready 
some very clear and weak gum arabic 
water, or some thin starch, or rice-water. 
Pass the veil through it, and clear it by 
clapping. Then stretch it out even, and 
pin it to diy on a linen cloth, making the 
edge as straight as possible, opening out 
all the scallops, and fastening each with 
pins. When dry, lay a piece of thin 
muslin smoothly over it, and iron it on 
the wrong side. 

To clean Freestone. — Wash the hearth 
with soap, and wipe it with a wet cloth. 
Or rub it over with a little freestone 
powder, after washing the hearth in hot 
water. Brush ofi* the powder when 
dry. 

To llach a BricTc Hearth. — Mix some 
black lead with soft soap and a little 
water, and boil it — then lay it on with a 
brush. Or mix the lead with water 
only. 

To clean Brass. — Rub it over with a 
bit of flannel dipped in sweet oil — then 
rub it hard with finely powdered rotten- 
stone — then rub it with a soft linen cloth 
— and polish witli a bit of wash leather. 

Rub creaking hinges with soft soap. 

Common Tins. — Throw some wood- 
ashes into a wash-kettle, pour on water 



till it is two-thirds full, and then let it 
boil. Or make a strong lye. Dip in the 
tins when it is boiling hot; and, if they 
are very dirty, leave them in about ten 
minutes. Take them out, and cover them 
with a mixture of soft soap and the very 
finest sand. This must be rubbed on 
with a coarse tow-cloth. Then rinse 
them in a tub of cold water, and set them 
in the sun to drain and dry. When dry, 
finish by rubbing them well with a clean 
woollen cloth or flannel. They will look 
very nice and bright. You may clean 
pewter in the same manner. 

To clean Alaiaster. — jNIake a mixture, 
in the proportion of two ounces of aqxia- 
fortis to a pint of cold water, which ought 
to be filtered. Dip a clean brush in this 
liquid, and wash the alabaster with it for 
five minutes or more. There should be 
a brush small enough to go in the most 
minute parts. Then rinse it with cold 
clear water, and set in the sun for two 
or three hours to dry. The aquafortis 
will make the alabaster very white. Soap 
should never be used. 

Cleaning Japanned Waiters, Urns., &c. 
— Rub on with a sponge a little white 
soap and some lukewarm water, and 
wash the waiter or urn quite clean. 
Never u&e hot water, as it will cause the 
japan to scale off. Having wiped it dry, 
sprinkle a little flour over it ; let it rest 
awhile, and then rub it with a soft dry 
cloth, and finish with a silk handkerchief. 
If there are white heat marks on the 
waiters, they will be difficult to remove. 
But you may try rubbing them with a 
flannel dipped in sweet oil, and afterwards 
in spirits of wine. Waiters and other 
articles oi papier mache should be washed 
with a sponge and cold water, without 
soap, dredged with flour while damp ; 
and after a while wiped off, and then 
polished with a silk handkerchief. 

Cheap Contrivance for Filtering. — A 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



575 



very cheap and good contriyancc for fil- 
tering is to take a large garden flower- 
pot, and lay in the bottom a pieca of 
sponge, so as to cover the whole. Upon 
this put a few smooth clean pebbles, to 
keep the sponge in its place, and fill up 
the pot, to within two or three inches of 
the brim, with a mixture of one part of 
powdered charcoal to two parts of fine 
sharp sand. Then cover the top of the 
pot with a piece of clean white flannel, 
tied tightly round the rim with a twine, 
but so as to sink or sway down in the 
centre. Set the flower-pot in a pan or 
tub, and pour the water into the flannel, 
letting it filter through the charcoal, &c.. 
and, by the time it has passed through 
the sponge, and come out at the bottom, 
it will be clear. 

Knives and Forl's. — Handles of ebony 
should be cleaned with a soft cloth, dip- 
ped in a little sweet oil ; and after resting 
awliile with the oil on them, let them be 
well wiped with a clean towel. Ivory or 
bone handles ought to be washed with a 
soaped flannel and lukewarm water, and 
then wiped with a dry towel. To pre- 
serve or restore their whiteness, soak 
them occasionally in alum-water that has 
been boiled and then grown cold. Let 
them lie for an hour in a vessel of this 
alum-water. Then take them out, and 
brush them well with a small brush (a 
tooth-brush will do), and afterwards take 
a clean linen towel, dip it in cold water, 
squeeze it out ; and, while wet, wrap it 
round the handles, leaving them in it to 
dry graduallj^, — as, if dried too fast, out 
of the alum-water, they will be injured. 
If properly managed, this process will 
make them very white. 

To clean Blaclc Lace Veils. — These are 
cleansed by passing them through a warm 
liquor of bullock's gall and water ; after 
which they must be rinsed in cold water, 
then cleansed for stiffening and finished 
as follows : Take a small piece of glue, 



about the size of a bean, pour boiling 
water upon it, which will dissolve it, and 
when dissolved, pass the veil through it, 
then clap it between your hands. 

To talce out paint frovi a dress. — 
When fresh (having wiped off as' much 
as you can), it may be taken out b}^ re- 
peated applications of spirits of turpen- 
tine or of spirits of wine, rubbed with a 
soft rag or a flannel. Ether also will ef- 
face it, if applied immediately. If the 
paint has been allowed to harden, nothing 
will take it off' but spirits of turpentine, 
rubbed on with perseverance. 

Indelible Marlnng Inlc, loitJiorit pre- 
paration. — One drachm and a half nitrate 
of silver (lunar caustic), one ounce dis- 
tilled water, half an ounce strong muci- 
lage of gum arable, three-quarters of a 
drachm of liquid ammonia ; mix the above 
in a clean glass bottle cork tightlj^, and 
keep in a dark place till dissolved, and 
ever afterwards. Directions for use : — 
Shake the' bottle, then dip a clean quill 
pen in the ink, and write or draw what 
you require on the article ; immediately 
hold it close to the fire, or pass a hot 
iron over it, and it will become a deep 
and^ indelible black, indestructible by 
either time or acids. 

To take Impressions of Butterflies' 
Wings. — Clip the wings of the butterfly. 
Lay them on clean paper, in the form of 
a butterfly, when flying. Spread some 
thick clean gum water on another piece 
of paper, press it on the wings, and it 
will take them up ; lay a piece of white 
paper over it, and rub it gently with 
your finger. Then draw the body in the 
space left between the wings. 

Clothes Balls. — Take four ounces of 
fuller's earth, dried so as to crumble into 
powder, and mix with it half an ounce 
of pearlash. Wet it with a sufficiency 
of lemon-juice to work it into a stiff 
paste. Then form it into balls, and dry 



576 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



them in the sun, or on the top of a 
moderately warm stove. When quite 
dry put them away for use. They will 
be found eflTicacions in removing grease 
spots and stains from articles of clothing, 
first wetting the spot with cold water, 
and then rubbing on the ball ; afterwards 
drying the place in the sun or by the fire, 
and then washing it off with a sponge and 
clean water. 

Fine Home- Made Candles. — Take ten 
ounces of fresh mutton fat or buet. a 
quarter of a pound of bleached white 
wax. a quarter of an ounce of camphor, 
and two ounces of alum. Cut or break 
up all these articles, and then melt them 
together, skimming them well. Have 
ready the wicks (which should be pre- 
viously soaked in lime-water and salt- 
jjetre, and then thoroughly dried), fix 
them in the moulds, and pour in the 
melted liquid, proceeding as in making 
common mould candles. Candles made 
in this manner of the above materials, 
are hard and durable, and will not run ; 
burning also with a very clear light. 

FdcMng Household Articles. — In pack- 
mg for the removal of a family to a dis- 
tant place, let all the boxes and trunks 
be numbered, and the numbers put down 
in a book ; let some one who overlooks 
the whole of the packing, set down every 
article, denoting the exact box or trunk 
in which it is placed, and the order in 
which the things are put in, beginning 
with those at the bottom. By this means, 
after arriving at the place of destination, 
3'ou will know, by consulting your book, 
where to find whatever you want ; and 
which of the boxes it will be best to 
open first. Also, in a long sea voyage, 
if there is occasion to have a trunk 
brought from the hold to get out of it 
any particular article, your book will tell 
exactly in which of your trunks the ar- 
ticle is. 

To wash Vials. — Put into a washkettle 



some sifted ashes, and pour on it cold 
water. Then put in the vials (without 
corks), place the kettle over the fire, and 
let it gradually come to a boil. After it 
has boiled awhile, take it off* and set it 
aside ; letting the vials remain in it till 
cold. Then take them out, rinse, drain 
them, and wipe the outsides. You may 
wash black bottles in the same manner. 
If you have occasion to wash a single vial 
or bottle, pour into it through a small 
funnel either some lye, or some lukewarm 
water in which a little pearlash has been 
dissolved ; shake, let it stand awhile to 
soak. Then rinse it well in cold water, 
two or three times. If it still smells of 
the former contents, soak it in more 
pearl-ash water (with the addition of a 
little lime), or in more lye. 

Cleaning Kettles and Saucepans. — A 
receipt for cleaning the inside of kettles 
or saucepans of the hard, stony sub- 
stance, resulting from continually boiling 
hard water : — In a kettle of boiling water, 
put about the sixteenth part of an ounce 
of sal-ammonia. Let it boil one hour, 
and then the substance will be dissolved, 
and is readily disengaged from the 
metal. 

To remove BlacTc Stains from the Shin. 
— Half an ounce each of cream of tartar 
and oxalic acid, mixed and pounded to- 
gether, kept in a covered cup in the 
drawer, and marked " poison." To use 
it, wet the black stains with the corner 
of a towel, dipped in water, rub on a little of 
the mixture. Then immediately wash it off 
with water, and afterwards with soap and 
water, and the black stains will be visible 
no longer. This mixture will also remove 
ink, and all other stains from the fingers, 
and from white clothes. It is more 
speedy in its effects, if applied with warm 
water. 

For cleaning Wainscots., and other 
Painted Wood^.-Eowc ounces of potash and 
four ounces of powdered quick-lime are 



MISCELLANEOUS KECEIPTS. 



577 



to be mixed together, and boiled for half 
an hour in three quarts of water ; this 
mixture is to stand until it is cold, and 
quite clear ; the clear liquid is then pour- 
ed off, and a painter's brush, dipped into 
it, is to be passed over the surface of the 
wood, in the same way as for painting, 
immediately afterwards washing with 
cold water. This mode of cleaning will 
frequently render a new coat of paint 
unnecessary, and it has the advantage of 
being destructive to the eggs of insects 
which may be deposited in the iyterstices 
of the wood ; where there is reason to 
suspect that bugs are in the wood, it may 
be well, as an additional precaution, to 
add to the mixture two drachms of cor- 
rosive sublimate. 

Balloons from TurTcey''s Crops. — Free 
the crop from a thick coat of fat ; turn 
the inside out, and wash the food away ; 
soak it in water for a day or two, then 
lay it on a cloth, and with a bone or 
knife scrape off the internal coat of the 
stomach ; wash it well and dry it with a 
clean cloth ; then turn the crop, and make 
an incision through the external coats, 
taking particular care not to cut through 
the membrane ; draw the coats at once 
over the neck, which must be cut long 
for greater convenience in using the bal- 
loon when finished. Proceed with the 
other neck in the same way ; tie it firm 
with silk, and cut it close to the body of 
the balloon ; it must be then distended 
with wind and hung up to dry. It may 
then be painted and varnished, but will 
not require it if properlj" prepared. It 
may be made large enough to contain a 
gallon of gas, and so light as to weigh 
only thirty grains. 

Black Paper for Drawing Patterns. — 
Mix lamp-black and sweet oil ; with a bit 
of flannel cover a sheet or two of large 
wiiting-paper with this mixture ; then 
dab the paper dry with a bit of fine linen, 
and keep it for using in the following 



manner : — Put the black side on another 
sheet of paper, and fasten the corners to- 
gether with small pins. Lay on the back 
of the black paper the pattern to be 
drawn, and go over it with the point of 
a steel pencil ; the black paper will then 
leave the impression of the pattern on 
the under sheet, on which you must draw 
it with ink. 

If you draw patterns on cloth or mus- 
lin, do it with a pen dipped in a bit of 
stone blue, a bit of sugar, and a little 
water, mixed smooth in a teacup, in 
which it will be always ready for use, if 
fresh ; wet to a due consistence as 
wanted. 

Preservation of Books. — A few drops 
of any perfumed oil will secure libraries 
from the consuming effects of mouldiness 
and damp. 

Water-proof Boots. — Saturate the boots 
with solution of Caoutchouc (India- 
rubber), till they will absorb no more, 
at intervals of a week, without needing 
to leave a coating on the surface. The 
solution is made with an ounce of India- 
rubber in a pint of spirits of turpentine, 
or coal naphtha, kept warm, and oc- 
casionally stirred till dissolved, which 
takes three or four days. In a boiling 
water bath it can be done in a few 
hours. 

To clean Read and Clothes-'brusTies. — 
Put a table-spoonful of pearl-ash into 
a pint of boiling water. Having fastened 
a bit of sponge to the end of a stick, dip 
it into the solution, and wash the brush 
with it, carefully going in among the 
bristles. Next pour over it some clean 
hot water, and let it lie a little while. 
Then drain it, wipe and dry it before the 
fire. 

To make Artificial Red Coral Branches 
for the EmMlishment of Grottoes. — 
Take clear resin, dissolve it in a brass- 
pan, to every ounce of which add two 



578 



THE PRACTICAL H0U8EKEEPEK. 



drachms of the finest vermilion ; when 
stirred well together, choose the twigs 
and branches, peeled and dried ; then take 
a pencil and paint the branches all over 
whilst the composition is warm ; after- 
wards shape them in imitation of natural 
coral. 'This done, hold the branches 
over a gentle coal-fire till all is smooth 
and even, as if polished. In the same 
manner white coral may be prepared with 
white lead, and black coral with lamp- 
black. A grotto may be built, with little 
expense, of glass, cinders, pebbles, pieces 
of large flint, shells, moss, stones, coun- 
terfeit coral, pieces of chalk, &c., all bound 
or cemented together with the above de- 
scribed cement. 

To dean Cane Chair Bottoms. — Turn 
up the chair bottom, and with hot water 
and a sponge wash the cane-work well, 
so that it may become completely soaked ; 
should it be very dirty, you may add 
soap. Let it dry in the open air if pos- 
sible, or in a place where there is a 
thorough draught, and it will become as 
tight and firm as when new, providing 
that it has not been broken. 

To clean Decanters. — Roll up in small 
pieces some coarse brown paper, then 
wet and soap the same, put them into 
the vessel with a little lukewarm water, 
and some common soda, shake them well, 
then rinse with clean water, and it will 
be as bright and clear as when new. 

To render Shoes Water-proof. — Mix a 
pint of drying oil, two ounces of yellow 
wax, two ounces of turpentine, and half 
an ounce of Burgundy pitch, over a slow 
fire. Lay the mixture, while hot, on the 
boots or shoes with a sponge or soft 
brush ; and, when they are dry, lay it on 
again and again, until the leather becomes 
quite saturated, that is to say, will hold 
no more. Let them then be put away, 
and not be worn until they are perfectly 
dry and elastic : they will afterwards be 
found not only impenetrable to wet, but 



soft and pliable, and of much longe 
duration. 

To clean papered Walls. — The very 
best method is to rub them with stale 
bread. Out the crust off very thick, and 
wipe straight down from the top, then 
go to the top again, and so on. The staler 
the bread the better. 

To cleanse Feather Beds and Mattresses. 
— When feather beds become solid or 
heavy, they may be made clean and light 
thus : Rub them over with a stiff brush, 
dipped in hot soap-suds. When clean, 
lay them on a shed or any other clean 
place, where the rain will fall on them. 
When thoroughly soaked, let them dry 
in a hot sun for six or seven days, shak 
ing them up well, and turning them oveT 
each day. They should be covered over 
with a thick cloth during the night. This 
way of washing the bed-ticking and 
feathers makes them very fresh and light, 
and is much easier than the old fashioned 
way of emptying the beds, and washing 
the feathers separately, while it answers 
quite as well. Care must be taken to 
dry the bed perfectly, before sleeping 
on it. 

To Tceep Eggs — Half a pint of salt, 
half a pint of lime to two gallons of hot 
water. Cover the eggs with the solution. 

To preserve various hinds of Fruits 
through the Winter. — Apples can be 
kept till June, by taking only those that 
are hard and sound, wiping them dry, 
then packing them in tight barrels, with 
a layer of bran to each layer of apples. 
Envelope the barrel in a linen cloth, to 
protect it from frost, and keep it in a cool 
place, but n«t so cold as to freeze the 
apples. It is said that mortar, laid over 
the top of a barrel of apples, is a good 
thing to preserve them, as it draws the 
air from them, which is the principal 
cause of their decaying. Care should be 
taken not to have it come in contact with 
the apples. To preserve oranges and 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



579 



lemons several months, take those that 
are perfectly fresh, and wrap each one in 
soft paper ; put them in glass jars, or a 
very light box, with white sand, that has 
been previously dried in an oven a few 
hours, after it has been baked in. The 
sand should be strewed thick over each 
one of the oranges, as they are laid in the 
iai", and the whole covered with a thick 
layer of it. Close the jar up tight, and 
keep it in a cool dry place, but not so 
cool as to freeze the fruit. To preserve 
grapes, gather them on a dry day, when 
they are not quite dead ripe, and pick 
those that are not far off from the stems. 
Lay the bunches of grapes in a glass jar, 
and sprinkle around each of them a thick 
layer of bran, so that they will not touch 
each other. Have a thick lawyer of bran 
on the top, and cork and seal the jar very 
tight, so that the air may be entirely ex- 
cluded. 

To destroy Cockroaches^ Ants, mid 
other Household Vermin. — Hellebore, 
rubbed over with molasses and put 
round the places that cockroaches fre- 
quent, is a very effectual poison for them. 
Quicksilver and the white of an egg, beat 
together, and laid with a feather round 
the crevices of the bedsteads and the 
sacking, is very eflPectual in destroying 
bugs in them. To kill flies, when so 
numerous as to be troublesome, keep 
cobalt, wet with spirit, in a large shallow 
plate. The spirit will attract the flies, 
and the cobalt will kill them very soon. 
The flour of sulphur is said to be good to 
drive ants away, if sprinkled around the 
places that they frequent. Weak brine 
will kill worms in gravel walks, if kept 
moist with it a week in the spring, and 
three or four days in the fall. 

COMMON SIMPLE DYES. 

To dye Blaclc.. — Allow a pound of log- 
wood to each pound of goods that are to 
be dyed. Soak it over night in soft wa- 
ter, then boil it an hour, and strain the 



water in which it is boiled. For each 
pound of logwood, dissolve an ounce of 
blue vitriol in lukewarm water sufficient 
to wet the goods. Dip the goods in — 
when saturated with it. turn the whole 
into the logwood dye. If the goods are 
cotton set the vessel on the fire, and let 
the goods boil ten or fifteen minutes, 
stirring them constantly to prevent their 
spotting. Silk and woollen goods should 
not be boiled in the dye-stuff, but it 
should be kept at a scalding heat for 
twenty minutes. Drain the goods with- 
out wringing, and hang them in a drj-, 
shady place, where they will have the 
air. When dry, set the color by, put 
them into scalding hot water, that has 
salt in it, in the proportion of a teacupful 
to three gallons of the water. Let the 
goods remain in it till cold, then hang 
them where they will dry ; they should 
not be wrung. Boiling hot suds is the 
best thing to set the color of black silk — 
let it remain in it till cold. Soaking 
black-dyed goods in sour milk, is also 
good to set the color. 

Green and Hue Dye, for Silks and 
Woollens. — For green dye, take a pound 
of oil of vitriol, and turn it upon half an 
ounce of Spanish indigo, that has been re- 
duced to a fine powder. Stir them well 
together, then add a lump of pcarlash, 
of the size of a pea ; — as soon as the fer- 
mentation ceases, bottle it — the dye will 
be fit for use the next day. Chemical blue 
is made in the same manner, only using 
half the quantity of vitriol. For woollen 
goods, the East indigo will answer as well 
as the Spanish, and comes much lower. 
This dye will not answer for cotton 
goods, as the vitriol rots the threads. 
Wash the articles that are to be dyed till 
perfectly clean, and free from color. It 
you cannot extract the color by rubbing it 
in hot suds, boil it out, and rinse it in soft 
water, till entirely free from soap, as the 
soap will ruin the dye. To dye a pale 
color, put to each quart of soft warm wa- 



580 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



ter that is to be used for the dye, ten 
drops of the above composition ; — if you 
wish a deep color, more will be necessary. 
Put in the articles without crowding, and 
let them remain in till of a good color — 
the dye-stuff should be kept warm. Take 
the articles out without wringing, drain as 
much of the dye out of them as possible, 
then hang them to dry in a shady, airy 
place. They should be dyed when the 
weather is dry — if not dried quick, they 
will not look nice. When perfectly dry, 
wash them in lukewarm suds, to keep 
the vitriol from injuring the texture of 
the cloth. If you wish for a lively bright 
green, mix a little of the above composi- 
tion with yellow dye. 

YelloiD Dyes. — To dye bnfif color, boil 
equal parts of annatto and common pot- 
ash, in soft clear water. When dissolv- 
ed, take it from the fire ; when cool, put 
in the goods, which should previously be 
washed free from spots and color ; set 
them on a moderate fire whei'e they will 
keep hot, till the goods are of the shade 
you wish. To dye salmon and orange 
color, tie annatto in a bag, and soak it in 
warm soft soap suds, till it becomes soft, 
so that you can squeeze enough of it 
through the bag to make the suds a deep 
yellow — put in the articles, which should 
be clean, and free from color ; boil them 
till of the shade you wish. There should 
be enough of the dye to cover the goods 
— stir them while boiling, to keep them 
from spotting. This dye will make a 
salmon or orange color, according to the 
strength of it, and the time the goods re- 
main in. Drain them out of the dye, and 
dry them quick, in the shade — when dry, 
wash them in soft soap suds. Goods 
dyed in this manner should never be 
rinsed in clear water. Peach leaves, fus- 
tic, and saffron, all make a good straw or 
lemon color, according to the strength of 
the dye. They should be steeped in fair 
soft water, in an earthen or tin vessel, and 
then strained, and the dye set with alum, 



and a little gum arabic dissolved in the 
dye, if you wash to stiffen the article. 
When the dye-stuff is strained, steep the 
articles in it. 

Red Dyes. — Madder makes a good dur- 
able red, but not a brilliant color. To 
make dye of it, allow for half a pound of 
it three ounces of alum, and one of cream 
of tartar, and six gallons of water. This 
proportion of ingredients will make suf- 
ficient dye for six or seven pounds of 
goods. Heat half of the water scalding 
hot, in a clean bi^ass kettle, then put in 
the alum and cream of tartar, and let it 
dissolve-. When the water boils, stir the 
alum and tartar up in it, put in the goods, 
and let them boil a couple of hours ; 
then rinse them in fair water — empty the 
kettle, and put m three gallons of water, 
and the madder ; rub it fine in the water, 
then put in the goods, and set them 
where they will keep scalding hot for an 
hour, without boiling — stir them con- 
stantly. When they have been scalding 
an hour, increase the fire till they boil. 
Let them boil five minutes, then drain 
them out of the dye, and rinse them, 
without wringing, in fair water, and hang 
them in the shade, where they will dry. 
To dye a fine crimson, take for each 
pound of goods two and a half ounces of 
alum, an ounce and a half of white tar- 
tar — put them in a brass kettle, with suf- 
ficient fair water to cover your goods ; 
set it where it will boil briskly for 
several minutes ; then put in the goods, 
which should be washed clean, and rinsed 
in fair water. When the goods have 
boiled half an hour, take them out, with- 
out wringing, and hang where they will 
cool all over alike, without drying ; empty 
out the alum and tartar water, put fresh 
water in the kettle, and for each pound 
of goods to be dyed, put in an ounce of 
cochineal, powdered fine. Set the kettle 
on the fire, and let the water boil fifteen 
or twenty minutes ; then put in sufficient 
cold water to make it lukewarm, put in 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



581 



the goods, and boil them an hour and a 
qu.irter — take them out Avithout wring- 
inof, and dry them in a shady place. The 
blo.^soms of the Balm of Gilead, steeped 
. with fair water in a vessel, then strained, 
will give silk a pretty red color. The 
silk should be washed clean and free from 
color, then rinsed in foir water, and boil- 
ed in the strained dye, with a small 
piece of alum. To dye a fine delicate 
pink, use a carmine saucer — the direc- 
tions for dyeing come with the saucers. It 
is too expensive a dye for bulky goods, 
but for faded fancy shawls and ribbons, 
it is quite worth the while to use it, as it 
gives a beautiful shade of pink. • 

Slate-Colored Dye. — To make a good 
dark slate color, boil sugar-loaf paper 
with vinegar in an iron utensil — put in 
alum to set the color. Tea-grounds, set 
with copperas, make a good slate color. 
To produce a light slate color, boil white 
maple bark in the clear water, with a lit- 
tle alum ; the bark should be boiled in a 
brass utensil, and the dye for slate color 
put into it. Goods should be boiled in it, 
and then hung where they will drain and 
dry. 

To preserve Steel Pens from Corrosion. 
Dip them for a few moments in ethereal 
solution of gold. This covers them with 
a film of pure metallic gold, which pre- 
vents the ink acting upon the steel. 

Corns. — The laminated corn, or cal- 
lus, produced by pressure, congestion, 
and increased formation of epidermis, may 
be softened by moisture, as by soaking 
in warm water, by the application of a 
starch or soap poultice ; and, being soft- 
ened, the thick cuticle may be thinned 
by scraping with a blunt knife, or it 
may be dissolved by an alkabne solution, 
w iih moderate friction. When the thick- 
ening has been reduced sufficiently, it 
may be kept Jown by daily washing 
with soap. The eye of the corn may be 
always made visible by rubbing the part 
with eau-de-cologne or spirits of wine ; 

37 



and any remains of the core should be 
removed with the point of a knife. Af- 
ter the operation, the corn should be 
covered with a piece of soft plaster for a 
day or two, and a peri orated plaster 
of buir leather subsequently worn to 
keep off" pressure from the centre of the 
growth. The removal of a corn may le 
very considerably aided by the use of 
the compound tincture of iodine painted 
on the swelling. When the corn is pain- 
ful, this application subdues the sensibili- 
ty, and renders the corn dry and pliable, 
and easy of removal by means of a file. 
Soap and water, so useful to the skin in 
many ways, are especially serviceable to 
fieet afilicted with corns, and particularly 
when they are soft corns. Daily wash- 
ing with soap, and the subsequent inter- 
position of a piece of cotton-wool bet vveen 
the toes, may be considered as a cure ibr 
soft corns. In these cases, the skin may 
be hardened by sponging with spirits of 
camphor after the washing. The cot- 
ton-wool should be removed at ni'^ht ; 
and this is a good time for the camphor- 
ated spirits. Adhesive plaster, sonstantly 
applied, will remove soreness and twin- 
ging, and often effect an entire cure. 

Dandruff. — Nitric acid, twelve drops ; 
Distilled water, three ounces. Mix, and 
apply once a day. 

Rat Poison. — Recent expei-iments 
have shown that squills is an excellent 
poison for rats. The powder should be 
mixed with some fatty substance, and 
spread upon slices of bread. 

Asthma. — A prominent professor In 
one of our New-England colleges, who 
has been an asthmatic for upwards of 
forty years, and tried*a great variety of 
remedies, gives this the preference over 
all others. It consists simply in inhaling 
the smoke of stramonium leaves, which 
have been immersed in a saturated solu- 
tion of nitre (nitrate of potassa), and 
then dried. Prepared in this way, it 
burns with great energy and complete- 



582 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



ness, rarely going out until the whole is 
consumed. These remedies, separately, 
have long been known, both to profes- 
sional and private experience ; but the 
combination seems particularly conve- 
nient and useful. It is best kept in a tin 
or other metallic box, the inside of the 
cover being used as a surface on which to 
burn it while inhaling. The effects are 
the more marked if it is used early, and 
before the paroxysm becomes fully de- 
veloped. 

Ligrowing Toe-Nail. — This painful 
abnormal condition of the toe-nail may 
be cured by allowing the nail to con- 
tinue to grow without paring it. The 
boot or shoe will depress the nail at the 
end as it grows longer, which will gradu- 
ally elevate the part where it presses 
upon and into the soft tissues of the toe ; 
thus removing the u-ritation, the sore 
soon heals. This is far preferable to the 
rash and painful operation of tearing off 
the toe-nail with forceps. 

Glycerine Lotion. — Take of Glycer- 
ine, inodorous, 3 fluid ounces. Muci- 
lage of gum arable, 10 fluid drachms. 
Pulv. cochineal, 5 grains. Hot water, 1 
1-2 fluid ounces. Deod. alcohol, 2 1-2 
fluid ounces. Oil of rose, 8 drops. 
Pulv. gum arable, 1-2 drachm. Water, 
8 fluid ounces. 

Hub the cochineal with the hot water 
gradually added, and then add the al- 
cohol ; triturate the oil of rose with the 
gum arable, and gradually add the water. 
With this mix well the solution first 
formed, and filter, and to the filtered 
liquid add the glycerine and mucilage 
and shake well. This forms a beautiful 
and elegant prepfration, with a rich, 
rosy fragrance. It renders the skin soft 
and smooth, and is excellent as an 
application to the face after shaving. 

Laundry Polish. — Take two ounces 
of fine white gum-arabic powder, put it 
into a pitcher, and pour on a pint of 
water ; and then, having covered it, let 



it stand aU night. In the morning pour 
it carefully from the dregs into a clean 
bottle, cork it, and keep it for use. A 
tablespoonful of this gum-water, added to 
a pint of starch made in the usual man- 
ner, will give to lawns, either white or 
printed, a look of newness, after they 
are washed. It is excellent as a polish 
for shirt-bosoms and other starched 
linen. 

Ventilation, Sunlight, and Warm Cloth- 
ing. — Fresh air by day and by night, 
strong and nourishing food, dry soil on 
which to live, sunlight, and warm cloth- 
ing, are the means of saving many lives 
which would have been hopelessly lost in 
the preceding generation. If our conjec- 
tures are correct, this improvement may 
be expected to continue ; and everybody 
can make it greater. Ventilate the 
schoolrooms and tlie workshops, and 
the stores and the houses.. In cold 
weather, let the air, comfortably and 
equally warmed, be generally supplied 
from without in a constantly-flowing cur- 
rent. Let those who can provide it in 
their homes remember that an open fire, 
which sends two-thirds of the heat up 
the chimney, furnishes the best ventila- 
tion, for a room of moderate size which 
the ingenuity of man has yet devised ; 
and that the heat escaping by the flue is 
the price to be paid for it. Let in the 
sunlight, and never mind the carpets ; 
better they should fade than the health 
of the family. When a man proposes to 
build a dwelling in a swamp, warn him 
of his danger. 

Rheumatism. — Rheumatism is improp- 
erly regarded as an inflammatory afl'ec- 
tion of the joints. The pains and in- 
flammation there stand in the same 
degree to the disease as the pustules 
or the scarlet eruption in smallpox and 
in scarlet fever do to these diseases. 
In rheumatism the pains are merely the 
symptoms of a general febrile disease. 
It is to this, therefore, that the attention 



I 



is to be turned. There is in every in- 
stance a condition of plethora which con- 
stitutes the predisposition to rheumatism, 
and which renders cold, or exposure to 
currents of air, capable of producing the 
disease. Of the medical treatment it is 
not necessary to speak here ; but with 
respect to the prevention of the attack, 
or the warding off its return after it has 
been relieved, the following rules should 
be observed : — 

FiYst. — It is of the utmost importance 
to commence the renewal of the move- 
ments of the affected joints as early as 
possible after the pain is allayed. Their 
strength and flexibihty depend solely on 
the early renewal of motion. On the 
contrary, rest tends to retard the restora- 
tion of the aflected .parts to complete 
health. They remain painful and stiff, 
and resist every movement which is at- 
tempted : the more motion is cultivated, 
the sooner are the limbs restored to their 
natural functions. Their exercise recov- 
ers the balance of the circulation, pre- 
vents effusion, aids absorption, and con- 
sequently favors flexibihty. If rest be 
indulged, from the dread of pain, the 
joints and the parts surrounding them 
become rigid, contracted, and their free 
action permanently impaired, while the 
muscles waste, and lose their power of 
contracting. 

Second. — Friction, and the daily use 
of the salt-water shower-bath, have a 
powerful effect in warding off the returns 
of the disease. (The salt-water shower- 
bath is made by the addition of a quart 
of salt brine to three pailfuls of water.) 

Third. — Flannel next the skin, and 
warm clothing generally, are absolutely 
essential. In a changeable climate, daily 
atrcntion in adapting dress to the weath- 
er is required. 

Fourth. — Due attention must be given 
to diet. Bear in mind that improper 
food, or eating to oppression, causes indi- 
gestion. Bad digestion produces bad 



blood ; and bad blood causes rheumatism 
and ailments of every nature. Plain 
nourishing food is what the system de- 
mands — being regulated in quantity by 
the exercise taken, and time spent in the 
open air. Saccharine matters, pastry, 
sweetmeats, and whatever can contiibute 
to a dyspeptic state of the digestive 
organs should be avoided ; and, unless 
the strength be greatly reduced, water 
should be the only beverage. 

1 . Toothache Drops. — Take of tincture 
of opium, two fluid drachms ; ether, four 
fluid drachms ; oil of cloves, one-half 
fluid drachm ; mix, with agitation, and 
shake it each time before use. 

2. Take of creosote, one drachm ; chlo- 
roform, two drachms ; alcohol, three fluid 
drachms ; mix, &c., as the last. 

A little cotton saturated with either of 
the above compounds, and placed in the 
cavity of the decayed tooth, will often 
produce immediate relief. 

Whooping-Cough. — Dr. Howard Sar- 
gent, of Boston, states that for eight or 
ten years past he has used, as a remedy 
for whooping-cough, a tea made from 
red-clover blossoms. He remarks, " It is 
so simple that many would not give it a 
second thought. I can say with truth 
that I never knew it fail. I generally 
expect a cure in ten days. Four years 
ago I had children in three families sick 
at the same time ; they were all well in 
ten, twelve, or fourteen days. There is 
some care and art necessary in making 
the tea. I select and cure the blossoms 
myself, and take of the best blossoms 
about two ounces to a pint of boiling 
water, steap for four hours, and give a 
wineglassful occasionally during the day. 
Should it operate on the bowels, no harm 
is done ; the dose, in that case, may be 
diminished. I ask physicians to try it 
before they reject it. I sometimes add a 
little honey to make it more palatable." 

Piles. — Take three grains sulphate 
of morphine, thirty grains extract of 



584 



THE TRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



stramonium, sixty grains carbonate of 
lead, one teaspoonfiil olive oil, and three 
di-achms lard cerat*. Rub the extract, if 
not unifjrmly soft, with a [<iw drops of 
w.:ter ; add the powders and olive oil, and 
rub till perfccliiy smooth, and then in- 
corporate thcuii \Yith the cerate. To be 
applied externally as occasion may re- 
quire. 

Itching of the Anus. — Take equal parts 
citrine ointment and simple cerate, and 
tlioroiiglily rub together. The above 
coaipound applied to the part, and rubbed 
in, is very efficacious in allaying this 
troublesome complaint. It should be at 
lea t strong enjugh to produce some 
smpj'ing, and the application continued 
until the itching is removed. 

Pin Worms, with which children are 
so often troubled, are destroyed and pass 
from the bowels, by the external use of 
diluted citrine ointment, prepared as 
above, or made still weaker by the addi- 
tion of more cerate. It should be intro- 
duced an inch or two within the rectum, 
and applied gently to the hning mem- 
brane. 

A Valuable Liniment. — A liniment 
whifh we have found most serviceable in 
the family and in the stable is prepared 
as follows : — 

Alcohol (ninety-five per cent), one 
quart. Fluid extract of arnica, four 
Ikiid ounces. Camphor, two fluid ounces. 
St.'GU'j'er aqua-ammonia, one fluid ounce. 
Tinct. opium, one fluid ounce. Water 
one quart. 

Add to the alcohol the arnica, camphor 
ammonia, and tincture of opium ; and, 
after the camphor is dissolved, the water 
may be added. This liniment may be 
applied for the relief of sprains, bruises, 
rheum itij and neural'jjic paius, &c., with 
decided aJvantige. For use in the cow 
and horse stable, it will be found most 
eflicicnt. 



SYIiUPS FOIl SODA AND MINERAL 
WATER. 

Sarsaparllla. — Take of simple syrup- 
four pints ; compound syrup of sarsapa- 
rllla, four fluid ounces ; caramel, one and 
a half fluid ounces ; oil of wintergreen 
and sassafras, of each, six drops. 

Lemon. — Grate oJ the yellow rind of 
lemons, and beat it up with a suflicient 
quantity of granulated sugar. Express 
the lemon-juice; add to each pint of 
juice one pint of water, and three and a 
half pounds of granulated sugar, includ- 
ing that rubbed up with the rind ; warm 
until the sugar is dissolved, and strain. 

Another recipe for lemon syrup i, as 
follows : Dissolve six drachms of tartar- 
ic acid and one ounce of gum arable in 
pieces, in one gallon of simple syrup ; 
then flavor with one and a half fluid 
drachms of best oil of lemon, or flavor 
with the saturated tincture of the peel in 
cologne spirits. 

Orange. — This may be made from 
the fruit in the same way as lemon syrup, 
or the following formula may be used : 
Dissolve six drachms of citric acid in one 
gallon of simple syrup, and add two fluid 
drachms of tresh oil of orange in two 
ounces of alcohol ; or instead of the 
alcohol solution of the oil, use the satu- 
rated tincture obtained by macerating 
the fresh peel for ten days in sufficient 
cologne spirits to cover. 

The lemon and orange syrups made 
from the fruit, after being strained, may 
be dikited wiih an equal bulk of simple 
syrup. One dozen of the fruit is suffi- 
cient to make one gallon of finished 
syrup. 

Ginger. — INIix two fluid ounces of 
tincture of ginger with tour pints of sim- 
ple syrup. 

Vanilla. — Mix two fluid ounces of 
extract of vanilla with four pints of sim- 
ple syrup. 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



585 



Strawberrij, Raspberry, or Pine-apple. — 
Mash tile fresh fruit, express the juice, 
and to each quart add tLree and a half 
pounds of gi'anulated sugar. The juice, 
heated to 180 degrees Fahrenheit, and 
strained or filtered previous to dissolving 
the sugar, will keep for an indefinite 
time. 

Nectar. — Mix three parts vanilla syr- 
up with one each of pine-apple and 
lemon syrups. 

Sherbet. — Mix equal parts of orange, 
pine-apple and vanilla syrups. 

Orgeat. — Cream syrup and vanilla 
syrup, each one pint; oil of bitter al- 
monds, four minims. 

Cream. — Take of Borden's condensed 
milk, one pint ; water, one pint ; sugar 
one and a half pound. Heat to boiling, 
and strain. This will keep for over a 
week in a cool place. 

Coffee. — Pure coffee, roasted, half a 
pound, is infiised in boiling water, half a 
gallon ; enough is filtered off" tft make 
half a gallon of infusion, in which dissolve 
seven pounds of granulated sugar. 

Chocolate. — Baker's chocolate, four 
ounces ; dissolve in twenty ounces of 
boiling water, and dissolve in this one 
pound of granulated sugar. 

Poisons and their Antidotes. — In all 
cases of poisoning, much depends upon 
the promptness with which the antidote 
is administered. The appropriate reme- 
dy for acids is alkalies, and vice versa. 
If lye has been swallowed for water, a 
mistake often made by children, give 
at once a wine ";lassful of vineg-ar added 
to an equal quantity of water. If oxahc 
or citric or tartaric acid have been taken, 
lose no time in administering a solution 
of bi-carbonate of soda or saleratus, — 
remedies always at hand. 

If the poison be morphine, narcotine, 
laudanum, or any form of opium, aconite 
or other powerful narcotic, a physician 
should be immediately called, and the 
stomach-pump applied. If too much 



time is likely to be lost, resort at once to 
an emetic, of which most families have 
an excellent one in the house in the form 
of ground mustard-seed. Of this give 
two teaspoonfuls stirred into a tumbler 
of warm water, for an adult, reducing the 
quantity for a child, and repeat every 
five minutes until vomiting is pro- 
duced. 

If corrosive sublimate, arsenic, or other 
mineral poisons have been taken, the 
prompt use of the mustard emetic, or 
stomach-pump, is required. White of 
eggs should be freely taken in all such 
cases, as a go©d medium for suspending 
the poison, and thereby saving the coats 
of the stomach. Always rememberin"' 
that no time is to be lost in procuring 
attendance of the family physician. Bear 
in mind that bedbug poison is generally 
made of corrosive sublimate. When 
used at all, what remains should be im- 
mediately thrown away. It is never 
safe, wherever hid, or however labelled. 
It is so deadly a poison, and has destroyed 
so many lives, it should never be kept in 
the house. 

Drowning, Restoration from. — 1. Place 
the patient on his back, with the shoul- 
ders raised and supported on a folded 
article of dress. 

2. In order to keep up a free entrance 
of air into the lungs, draw the tongue for- 
ward, and keep it projecting out of the 
mouth beyond the lips ; it may be held 
in this position by the teeth if the lower 
jaw be raised. 

3. To imitate the movements of breath- 
ing, raise the patient's arms upward by 
the sides of his head, and then extend 
them gently and steadily upward and 
forward for a few moments. (This ac- 
tion induces inspiration or the passing of 
air into the lungs, by enlarging the ca- 
pacity of the chest.) 

Next, turn down the arms, and press 
them gently and firmly for a few mo- 
ments against the sides of the chest. 



580 



THE PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPER. 



(This produces a forced expulsion of air 
from the luugs.) 

Rapccifc these measures alternately, 
deliberately, and perseveringly, fifteen 
times in a minute. 

4. To induce circulation and toannth, do 
not cease rubbing the limbs all this time 
upwai-d, with firm, grasping pressure, 
and with energy, using handkerchiefs, 
flannels, &c. (This rubbing upward 
causes the blood in the veins to flow to- 
ward the heart, and should be done by 
assistants.) 

5. When the limbs are thus warmed 
and dried, clothe the body, — the by- 
standers supplying the garments. 

On the restoration of life, a teaspoon- 
iul of warm water should be given ; and 
then, if the power of swallowing has re- 
turned, small quantities of warm coifee, 
ginger-tea, wine, brandy, and warm 
water, &c., may be given. By pursuing 
this treatment perseveringly and ener- 
getically for several hours, many persons 
have been resuscitated ; it is a mistaken 
opinion that death has occurred because 
life does not make its appearance in half 
an hour or an hour. 

Cautions to the bystanders. — 1. Send 
at once for a physician, and for dry 
clothing. 2. Avoid all rough usage, and 
be very careful not to tm-n the body on 
the back. 3. Do not hold up the body 
by the feet for any reason. 4. Do not 
roll the body on barrels. 5. Do not rub 
the body with salt or spirits. 6. Do 
not inject tobacco smoke, or an infusion, 
into the bowels. 7. Avoid the continu- 
ous warm bath. 8. Be especially care- 
ful to prevent persons crowding around 
the body. 

Apparent Death from Intense Cold. — 
Treatment. — Be careful about employ- 
ini; warmth too soon, as its too quick and 
free application will undoubtedly pro- 
duce mortification, and endanger life. 



Rub the body all over, at fir: t with snow 
or very cold water, continuing this for 
from twenty to thirty minutes, or until 
it becomes very red ; then wipe it per- 
fectly dry, and let it be rubbed with the 
warm hands of several persons at one 
time. After this has been done for a 
short time, remove the body to a cool 
room, continuing the friction, and then 
covering with hot flannel. To restore 
breathing, make use of the same means 
as recommended in " restoration fi'om 
drowning." 

Greek Fire. — Modern Greek fire is a 
solution of phosphorus in bisulphide of 
carbon. When this solution is poui-ed 
on paper, rags, or shavings, the bisul- 
phide evaporates rapidly and leaves the 
phosphorus in a state of very fine divis- 
ion — so fine that it takes fire spontane- 
ously. It fiirnishes the means of per- 
forming a very pretty lecture-room ex- 
periment ; but as an incendiary agent it 
is wortkless, for the simple reason that it 
does not set fire to even the thinnest and 
driest boards. The phosphorus, in burn- 
ing, produces a fusible and non-volatile 
compound, and tliis glazes over all ob- 
jects in its vicinity, and protects them 
from the action of the flames. 

To collect the Odors of Floivers. — 
Roses, and all flowers containing per- 
fumed oils, may be made to yield their 
aromatic properties by steeping the jiet- 
als in a flat dish of soft water, and setting 
it in the sun. The petals should be en- 
tirely covered with the water. A suffi- 
cient quantity should be allowed for evap- 
oration, and the vessel left undisturbed 
a few days. A film will be found on the 
top. This is the essential oil, and every 
particle is impregnated with the odor 
peculiar to the flower. It eliould be taken 
up carefully and put in tiny vials, which 
should be allowed to remain open till all 
water}' particles are evaporated. 



• 


• 

INDEX. 


> 


A 


April, Meats in Season for, 150. 


Bacon, to Cure, Cobbett's Receipt, 




April, Poultry and Game in Sea- 


333. 


A.ccounts, 33. 


son for, 15». 


Bacon, to cure for Larding and 


Accounts should be regular, 17, 


April, Vegetables in Season for. 


Braising, 884, 346. 


Acetic acid, 549. 


150. 


Bacon, Malihe's Method of Curing, 


Adulteration of Food, T8. 


Ardent Spirits in Sweden, 510. 


345. 


Asrue and Fever, 558. 


Arrangement of Dinner, 96. 


Bacon. Black Pool Receipt for, 346. 


Airing Rooms, 35. 


Arrow Root, 135, 527. 


Bacon, Wiltshire, 346. 


Alabaster, to clean, 574. 


Arrowroot Jelly, 524. 


Bain Marie, 83. 


Ale Posset, 513. 


Aromatic Vinegar, 549. 


Bakins, 141. 


Allspice, 130. 


Art of Cookery, 124. 


Baked Apples, 443. 


Almack, 484. 


Articles for Breakfast, 532. 


Baked Beans, 384. 


Almond Balls, 548. 


Articles in winter, additional, 532. 


Baked Calf s Head, 293. 


Almond Bread, 46T. 


Articles of Silver required for the 


Baked Calf s Heart, 288. 


Almond Cake, 477. 


Table, 24. 


Baked Ejjgs, 462. 


Almond Perfume, 537. 


Artificial Coral Branches for Grot- 


Baked Fagots, .327. 


Almond Paste, 432. 


toes. 577. 


Baked Ham, 831. 


Almond Posset, 493. 


Articles in Season for each Month, 


Baked Herring, 193. 


Almonds. Syrup of, 511. 


149. 


Baked Marrowbones, 273. 


Almond Water, 524. 


Artichokes, 899, 883. 


Baked Milk, 520. 


American " Help," 30. 


Artichokes, Jerusalem, 884. 


Baked Pears, 502, 528. 


Anchovies, Essence of, 206. 


Asparagus, 380. 


Baked Pis's Head, 324 


Anchovies, Toast of, 206. 


Asparagus Loaves, 881. 


Baked Pike, 196. 


» Anchovies, with Pried Bread, 206. 


Asparagus Forced, 381. 


Baked Salmon, 200. 


Anchovies, to know good, 206. 


Asparagus Peas, 381. 


Baked Shad, 195. 


Anchovy Sauce for Fish, 405. 


Asparagus, Garniture for Ome- 


Baked Smelts, 197. 


Angelica, 134. 


lettes, 464. 


Balloons, from Turkey's Crops,577. 


Anfmals, Names of Joints in, 116. 


Aspic Jelly, 354. 


Balm Tea, 521. 


Aperient Electuary, 560. 


Asses Milk, 520. 


Banbury Cake, 4S1. 


Aperient for Children, 563. 


A.sses Milk, Artificial, 520. 


Bandoline, 552. 


Aperients, Spring, 563. 


August, Fish in Season for, 150. 


Bandoline, Rose, 558. 


Aperient Pills, 563. 


August, Fruits in Season for, 151. 


Barberries, 132, 399. 


Aperient, Infant's, 564. 


August, Meats in Season for, 151. 


Barley Water, 522. 


Apple Bread, 469. 


August, Poultry and Game in Sea- 


Basil, 132. 


Apple Butter, 506. 


son for, 151. 


Bath of Oil, 83. 


Apple Charlotte, 445. 


August, Vegetables in Season for. 


Batter for Fruit Puddings, 449. 


Apple Codlings, to pickle, 400. 


151. 


Bay, 134, 538. 


Apples, to Bake, 520. 


Auld Man's Milk, 514. 


Bay Salt, 129. 


Apple Cake, for Children, 528. 




Beans, k la maitre d' Hotel, 884 


Apple Dumplings, 443. 




Beans, Baked, 384. 


Apple Fool, 493. 


B • 


Beans, French, 384. 


Apple Jelly, 502. 




Beans, French. Pickled, 895. 


Apple Paste, 520. 


Baba, 486. 


Beans, Lima, 884. 


Apple Souffle, 453. 


Bacon, Garniture for Omelette, 


Beans, Stewed, 386. 


Apples, Tapioca, 520. 


464. 


Beans, White, Puree of, 886. 


Apples, Miroton of, 449 


Bacon, Broiled, 531. 


Beans, White Haricot, 887. « 


Apricot Sweetmeat, for Tarts, 433. 


Bacon, to boil, 334. 


Bear's Grease, imitation, 545, 


Apricot Tart, 428. 


Bacon, to broil, 334. 


Bedroom Furniture, 22. 


April, Fish in Season for, 150. 


Bacon, to make, 334. 


Bedsteads, 22, 


April, Fruits in Season for, 150. 


Bacon and Cabbage, 834 


Bedsteads, to clean, 89. 



588 


INDEX, 




Beef, to choose, 56. 


Beef, Rump Steak, Plain Broiled, 


Boil Pickerel, 196. 


Beef, 249. 


260. 


Boil Pig's Head, 326. 


Beef Baked, 260. 


Beef Steak, h la Fran? aisc, 265. 


Boil Pork, 322. 


Beef, Bath Receipt, 264. 


]?eef Tongue, to Cure, 257. 


Boil Salmon. 200. 


Beef Bouilli, 253. 


Beef Tongue, 262. 


Boil Sbeepshead, 191. 


Beef BoiiiUon, 253. 


Beef Tongues, to dre.is, 2.57. 


Boil Turbot, 199. 


Beef Brains a la Sauce Piquante, 


Beef Tongue, Larded, 257. 


Boil Turkey, 857. 


2(i0. 


Beef Tongue, to stew, 262. 


Bone a Quarter of Lamb, S14. 


Beef Brains Fried, 260. 


Beef Tonsrue, to prepare to •eat 


Bone Birds, 356. 


Beef, Brisket of. Stewed, 25.3, 263. 


cold, 262. 


Boning, 143. 


Beef, Brisket, to carve, 109. 


Beef Tongue, to Roast, 262. 


Boorhieve's Sweet Buttermilfe, 


Beef, Broilinfr, 254. 


Beef Tongue, Fresh, 203. 


519. 


Beef Broth, 273. 


Beef Tongue and Udder, Fresh, 


Books, to preserve, 577. 


Beef Bibs, to carve, 108. 


263. 


Boots, Waterproof, 577. 


Beef Round, to carve, 108. 


Boeuf Tremblant, 258. 


Boston Creamcakes, 484. 


Beef u la Houssard, 266. 


Beef Tripe, 261. 


Bottles and Decanters, 60. 


Beef Sirloin, 109. 


Beef Tripe, Lyons Fashion, 209. 


Bouqitet de Caroline, 542. 


Boeuf a la Mode, 264. . 


lieef Tea, Liebig"s, 51S. 


Bouquet de Flora, 542. 


Beef a la Mode, 264, 266, 267. 


Beer, Spruce, 5io. 


Braising. 139. 


Beef a la Polonaise, 265. 


Beer, Ginger, 510. 


Braise Breast of Lamb, 314. 


Beef, Cold, 273. 


Beets, 3S2'; 887. 


Braise Chicken, .*!64. 


Beef, to Corn, 342. 


Beets, French way, 387. 


Braise Fillet of Beef, 265. 


Beef Collops, 256, 269. 


Beignets, 4.59. 


Braise Fowls. 361. 


Beef, to collar Ribs of, 250. 


Benzoin, 538. 


Braise Ham, 832. 


Beef, Croquettes of, 271. 


Bergalot, 538. 


Braise Leg of Mutton, 298. 


Beef, to collar, 352. 


Beverages, 510. 


Braise Mutton Cutlets, 801. 


Beef, to 'collar. Economical way, 


Beverages composed partly of 


Braise Xeek of Veal, 279. 


852. 


Fermented Liquors, 512. 


Braise Shoulder of Lamb, 312, 814. 


Beef, Curried, 273. 


Bills of Fare, 532, 533, 534. ' 


Braise Turkey, 808. 


Beef, Dutch way to salt, 342. 


Bills of Fare for SDring, 533. 
Bills of Fare for Summer, 533. 


Bran Tea. 559. 


Beef, Dutch Hung, 259. 


Brandy Mixture, 522. 


Beef Entries, 26.3. 


Bills of Fare for Winter, 534. 


Brass, to clean, 574. 


Beef Essence, 518. 


Biids, Potted, 349. 


Brass Ornaments, to preserve, 569. 


Beef, Family Stew of, 257. 


Birds, to bone, 356. 


Brawn, to choose, 57. 


Beef, Fillet of, Roasted, 251. 


IMscuits, Damascus, 467. 


Brawn, 346. 


Beef to taste like Hare, 251. 


Biscuits, Milk, 467. 


Brawns, mock, 334, 346. 


Beef, Fillets of, 265. 


Biscuits, Cinnamon, 480. 


Brawn, to keep, Cambridge way. 


Beef Fillets, Braised. 265. 


Biscuits, 481. 


846. 


Beef, Fillet of. Saute, 270. 


Biscuit, glace, 490. 


Bread Crumbs, 878. 


Beef, Fricasseed, 274. 


Bishop, 512. 


Bread, Fried, for Garnishing, 878. 


Beef Fricandeau, 267, 274. 


Black Crape, to restore, 568. 


Bread, to make. 464. 


Beef Gravy, 22(1. 


Black Balls, 670. 


Bread, Brown or Dyspepsia, 465. 


Beef Hashed, 256. 


Black Dve, 579. 


Bread, Rye and Indian, 465. 


Beef Heart, 268. 


Blackberry Jam, 528. 


Bread, to make without yeast, 465. 


Beef, Hunter's. 268. 


Blacking, 570. 


Bread, Rice, 466. 


Beef, Huns, 259, 348. 


Black Lace Veils, to clean, 575. 


Bread, Almond, 467. 


Beet; Jerked, 140. 


Black Pool Receipt for Bacon, 845. 


Bread, Apple, 469. 


Beef, Leg of, 253. 


Black Stains, to remove from the 


Bread, Dit-t, 480. 


Beef, in a Marinade, 265. 


Skin, 576. 


Breail, French, 482. 


Beef, Minced with Cucumbers,268. 


Black Paper, for drawing patterns, 


Bread and Milk, 628. 


Beef, Minced, 271. 


577. 


Breakfast Articles, 632. 


Beef Olives, 258. 


Blanching, 142. 


Breakfast, Dishes for, 529. 


Beef Palates, 2.56, 273. 


Blanc mange, 523, 487. 


Breakfasts, Serving of, 94. 


Beef, a Pickle for, 258, 354. 


Blanc mange. Rice, 523. 


Brick Hearth, to black, 574. ' 


Beef Pickle for, a la Garrick, 274. 


Blue and Green Dye, 579. 


Bride Cake, 4T6. 


Beef Potted, 267, 349. 


Blue Ink, 571. 


Brioche Paste, 409. 


Beef, Potted like Venison, 849, 


Boarding and Housekeeping, 21. 


Brioche R(dls, 472. 


351. 


Boiling, "Operation of, SI, 136. 


Broccoli and Battered Eggs, 888. 


Beef, pressed, 274. 


Boil Bacon, 834. 


Broiled Chicken, for Breakfast, 


Beef, Rissoles, 275. 


B(jil Cabbage, 888. 


630. 


Beef, Round, to salt or corn, 854. 


Boil Calfs Head, 282, 293. 


Brisket of Beef, 253, 283. 


Beef, Rump of, 251. 


Boil Chicken, 364. 


Broiling, 140. 


Beef. Salt, remains of; 273. 


Boil Cod, 190. 


Broil Beef, 254. 


Beef, to salt red, 342. 


Boil Crabs, 207. 


Broil Beef Steaks, 254. 


Beef, to Stew, 268, 252. 


Boil Ducks, 369. 


Broil Beef Steaks, a la FrancaiseL 


Beef Sausages, 267. 


Boil Effgs, 460. 


25.5. 


Beet, Sirloin, Roasted, 250. 


Boil Fillet of Veal, 277. 


Broil Beef Steaks, k la Parisienne, 


Beef Sirloin, to dross inside of 251. 


Boil Fowls. 361. 


255. 


Beef Spiced, 342, 274, 2.^8. 


Boil HaA, 328. .329. 


Broil Bones, 269. 


Beef Steaks, Broiled, 254. 


Boil Knuckle of Veal, 278. 


Broil ('hicken, 530. 


Beefsteaks, a la Francaise. 2.5.5. 


Boil Leg of Lamb, 312. 


Broil Fowls, 362. 


Beef Steaks, a la Parisienne, 255. 


Boil Leg of Lamb with Spinach, 


Broil Mackerel, 194. 


Beefsteak and Onions, 25.5. 


313. 


Broil Mushrooms, 388. 


' Beef Steaks Rolled and Roasted, 


Boil Leg of Mutton, 298. 


Broil Mutton Chops, 300. 


25.5. 


Boil Leg of Pork, 820. 


Broil Mutton Kidneys, 805. 


Beefsteaks, Stewed, 255. 


Boil Lobster, 204. 


Broil Oysters, 209. 


Beef Stew, 252. 256. 


Boil Mackerel, 194. 


Broil Partridges, 871. 


Beef, Kump Steak Stewed, 259. 


Boil Mutton Ham, 330. 


Broil Pigeons, 864. 





INDEX. 


5S9 


Broil Rump Steak, 260. 


Cakes, for Children, 527. 


Caudle, 619. 


Broil Salmon, 201. 


Calf's Brains, 289. 


Caudle, Flour, 519. 


Broil Shad, 195. 


Calf's Brains, Croquettes of, 289. 


Caudle, York, 519. ■ 


Broil Smelts, 197. 


Calf's Ears, Stuffed, 288. 


Cayenne Pepper, 406. 


Broth, Calf or Lamb's Feet, 518. 


Calf's Feet, 288. 


Cayenne, 130. 
Celery, 182. 


Broth, Chicken, 518. 


Calf's Foot Jelly, 491, 492. 
Calf's Foot Pudding, 524. 


Broth, that will keep, 518. 


Celery, to stew, 38.3. 


Broth, quick made, 518. 


Calf '8 Head, 292. 


Celery, Pickled, -396. 


Brown Coloring for made dishes, 


Calf's Head Baked, 293. 


Cement, for Corked Bottles, 573. 


•249. 


Calf's Head Boiled, 282, 293. 


Cement of Lime, 568. 


Brown thickening, 228. 


Calf's Head Cheese, 286. 


Cement, Lime and Egg, 71. 


Bruise or Sprain, 505. 


Calf "s Head, to collar, 352. 


Cement, Mastic, 72 


Brushes, 2(j. 


Calf's Head Curry, 283. 


Cement, Bed, 71. 


Brushes, to clean, 577. 


Calf's Head Hashed, 293. 


Cements, Use of, 69. 


Bubble and Squeak, 260, 269. 


Calf's Head Eaarout, 282. 


Cements, Waterproof, 71. 


Buckwheat Cakes, 468. 


Calf's Head a la Tortue, 293. 


Cera, Fortlfont, 565. 


Buckskin Gloves, to clean, 571. 


Calf's Heart, 290. 


Cervelle de Veau au Marinade, 


Buns, 471. 


Calf's Heart, Baked 288. 


289. 


Burns, to relieve, 56.5. 


Calf's Liver, 2S.5. 


Cervelle de Veau h la Maitre d' 


Butter, to clarify, 847, 473. 


Calf's Liver, Fried, 286. 


Hotel, 291. 


Butter, Pickle for, 4T'2. 


Calf's Liver, Stewed, 235. 


Charcoal, Danger of, 87. 


Butter, to cure in the best way, 


Calf s Liver and Lights, 290. 


Charcoal, Deaths by, 88. 


473. 


Camomile Tea, 522. 


Chartreuse of Apples and Eico, 


Butter, salt, to freshen, 473. 


Camphor Balls, 54S. 


449. 


Butter, to make, 473. 


Camphor Ice, 547. 


Charlotte Russe. 4S8. 


Butter, to preserve for winter 


Camphor Cake, 565. 


Charlotte, Strawben-y, 489. 


use, 473. 


Camphor Cerate, 548. 


Champagne, Pink, 517. 


Butternuts, Pickled, 399. 


Candy Fruit, 509. 


Champagne, Grape, to equal 




Candies, Home made, 576. 


Foreign, 517. 




Cane Chair Bottoms, to clean, 578. 


Cheese, 454. 


0. 


Capillaire, 512. 


Cheese, to make, 454. 




Capon, 360. 


Cheese, at Dinner, 100. 


Cabbage, to boil, 388. 


Caramel, 127. 


Cheese, Cream, 454. 


Cabbage, Purple, to pickle, 396. 


Care of the Sick, 50. 


Cheese, Cream, Plain Family wav. 


Cabbage, Eed, to pickle, 396. 


Carpets, 22. 


456. 


Cabbage, "White, to pickle, 396. 


Carpet, to clean, 570. 


Cheese, Cottage, 454. 


Cakes, 473. 


Carrots, 382. 


Cheese, Eggs and, 455. 


Cake, Almond, 477. 


Carving, 107. 


Cheese, for Pondeau, 455. 


Cake, Banbury, 481. 


Carving, Beef, Brisket of, 109. 


Cheese, Italian, 525. 


Cake, Boston Cream, 484. 


Carving, Beef, Round of, 108. 


Cheese, a L' Italienne, 455. 


Cake, Bride, 476. 


Carving, Beef, Ribs of, 108. 


Cheese, Puffs, 4^4. 


Cake, Chocolate, 480. 


Carving, Beef Sirloin of, 109. 


Cheese, Sage, 454. 


Cake, Cider, 479. 


Carving, Boiled or Roast Turkey, 


Cheese, Souffle, 455. 


Cake, Cocoanut, 477. 


113! 


Cheese, Stewed, 456. 


Cake, Cornstarch, 479. 


Carving, Breast of "Veal, 109. 


Cheese, Potato, 43.5. 


Cake, Currant, 480. 


Carving, Fillet of Veal, 109. 


Cheese, Potted, 456. 


Cake, Eletherian Pineapple, 485. 


Carving, Fowl, Roast and Boiled, 


Cheese, Pudding, 456. 


Cakes, Frosting, 47.5. 


114. 


Cheesecakes, 484, 485. 


Cake, German Sugar, 476. 


Carving, Forequarter of Lamb, 


Cheesecakes, Almond, 434, 486. 


Cake, Gold and Silver, 481. 


112. 


Cheesecakes, Apple, 4S6. 


Cake, Honey, 477. 


Carving, Ham, 112. 


Cheesecakes, Bread, 486. 


Cake, Housewife's Christmas, 479. 


Carving, Haunch of Mutton, 112. 


Cheesecakes, Citron, 486. 


Cakes, Icing for, 480. 


Carving, Haunch of Venison, 112. 


Cheesecakes, Lemon, 434, 486. 


Cake, Indian Corn, 478. 


Carving, Knuckle of Veal, 109. 


Cheesecakes, Miss Bratty's, 434. 


Cake, .Jelly, 480. 


Carving, Leg of Mutton, 110. 


Cheesecakes, Orange, 434. 


Cake, Lady, 4S0. 


Carving, Leg of Pork, 112. 


Cheesecakes, Soyer's, 435. 


Cake, Lemon, 480. 


Carving, Loin of Mutton, 111. 


Cheesecake, Stock, 4;35. 


Cake, Love, Bola d' Amour, 485. 


Carving, Loin of Veal, 109. 


Cherries, to dry, 503. 


Cake, New England "Wedding, 475. 


Carving, Neck of Mutton, 111. 


Cherry Bounce, 514. 


Cake, New York Cup, 478. 


Carving, Neck of Veal, 109. 


Chetney, 135. 


Cake, Nourmahal, 480. 


Carving, Neck of Venison, 112. 


Chicken and Ham Potted, 349. 


Cake, Plain Fruit, 477. 


Carving, Pheasant, 115. 


Chicken Salad, 890. 


Cake, Plum, 475. 


Carving, Pigeons, 116. 


Chicken Jelly, 520. 


Cake, Pound, 478. 


Carving, Rabbit, 113. 


Chickens, Boiled, 364. 


Cake, Queen, 477. 


Carving, Roast Goose 115. 


Chickens, Braised, 364. 


Cake, Queen Victoria's, 485. 


Carving, Roast Pia;, 113. 


Chickens, Curried, 364, 367. 


Cake, Railroad, 479. 


Carving, Saddle of Mutton, 111. 


Chickens, Fried, a la Malabai 


Cake, Pace, 4S5. 


Carving, Scrag of Mutton, 111. 


364. 


Cake, Savoy, 477. 


Carving, Shoulder of Mutton, 110. 


Chickens, Pulled, 364 


Cake, Seed, 480. 


Carving, Shoulder of Veal, 110. 


Chickenpox, 562. 


Cake, Short and Strawberry, 479. 


Carving, Tongue, 112. 


Chilblains, 568. 


Cake, Small Plum, 476. 


Carving, "Wild Birds, 115. 


Children, Cocjking for, 526. 


Cake, Soyer's St. James, 478. 


Casserole, 127. 


Children's Diet for the day, 529. 


Cake, Soyer's Turban, 479. 


Cassolettes, 551. 


Children, Management o^ 48. 


Cake, Sponge, 477. 


Casks, to sweeten, 569. 


Children, Meats" for, 529. 


Cake, Sugar, 479. 


Cassia, 131. 


Children, Training of, 519. 


Cake, Tipsv, 483. 


Cauliflower, 382. 


China, 24. 


Cake, Washington, 478. f 


Cauliflower Pickle, 896. 


Chlorine, Mode of Liberating, 90. 



590 



INDEX. 



Chocolate, 497. 

Chocolate, Cake, 480. 

Chocolate Drops, 493. 

('hopping, 73. 

Cinnamon, 131. 

Citi-ou, 542. 

Citronella, 542. 

ChirilV Meat Jelly, 858. 

Clary," 182. 

Cleanliness, Importance of, 47. 

Cleaning Bottles, 60. 

Clean liriishes, 577. 

Clean Decanters, 578. 

Clean Feather Beds, 578. 

Clean Floors, 88. 

Clean Freestone, 574. 

Clean German Silver, 570. 

Clean Gloves, 572. 

Clean Ironwork, 88. 

Clean Japanned Goods, 89. 

Clean Japanned Walters, 574. 

Clean Kettles and Saucepans, 576'. 

Clean Kid Gloves, 509. 

Clean Knives, 89. 

Clean Marhle, 570. 

Clean Mattresses, 578. 

Clean Paint, SO. 

Clean Papered "Walls, 578. 

Clean Silk, 570.- 

Clean Silver, 572. 

Clean Steel Forks, 89. 

Clean Tin Covers, 571. 

Clean Wainscots. 576. 

Cloth, to take Spots out of, 569. 

Cloves, 130,542. 

Clouted Cream, 488. 

Clotheshalls, 575. 

Cocoannt Cake, 477. 

Cocoa, 497, 522. 

Cocoa Shells or Nibs, 497. 

Colfee, 494, 495. 

Cottee, to roast, 49.5. 

Cotleemaker, Patent, 495. 

Cold Cream, Almond, 547. 

Cold Cream, Rose, 547. 

Cold Cream, Violet, 547. 

Ccelus Apicius, 125. 

Cold Cream, 549. 

Collar Breast of Mutton, 353. 

Collar Breast of Veal, 358. 

Collar Eels, 851. 

Collar Fowls, 362. 

Collar Ox Cheek, 353. 

Collar a Pig, 353. 

Collar Pius Head, 324, 353. 

Collar Kius of Beef, 250. 

Collar Salmon, 202. 

Collodion, 565. 

Collodion, Blistering, 565. 

Collodion, Toothache, 565. 

Coloring for Jellies, 502. 

Colored Things, to wash, 571. 

Color of Dresses, to preserve, 

572. 
Compotes of Fruit, 505. 
Compound Odors, 542. 
Con'Iiiii.-nts, 129. 
Consideration of Dinner, 30. 
Consomme, 127. 
Contrivance for Filtering, 574. 
Composition for the Skin, 548, 
Cookinsr, French. 139. 
Cookery for the tjick, 517. 
Cooking Stoves, 8.5. 
Cookery, Art of, 124. 
Cookery, Rudiments of, 136. 
Coral Branches, 577. 
Corking, 60. 



Corn, Green, Fritters, 885. 
Corn, Creen, Omelet, 385. 
Corn, Green, Pudding, 385. 
Corn, Sweet, 885. 
Cottage Cheese, 454. 
Cottairer's Stove, 85. 

Country Syllabub, 491. 

Cosmetic Gloves, 546. 

Cough, 564. 

Coulis, 127. 

Court Nosegay, 542. 

Court Plaster, 565. 

Cow Heels, 263. 

Cow Heels, to fry, 267, 204. 

Cow Heels to pot, 264. 

Crabs, 206. 

Crabs, Boiled, 207. 

Crabs, Minced, 208. 

Crake, Soft Shelled, 208. 

Crab Soup, 207. 

Crabs, Stewed, 207. 

Cracknels, 482. 

Cracknels, Isle of Wight, 482. 

Cranberries, to prepare for Tarts, 
432. 

Cranberry Sauce, 507. 

Crayfish Soup, 207. 

Crayfish Butter, 208. 

Crayfish Stewed, 207. 

Cream of Tartar Water, 523. 

Cream Champagne, 487. 

Cream Cheese, 454. 

Cream, Clouted, 488. 

Cream, Italian, 488. 

Crema, Lech6, 488. 

Cream, Mock, 490. 

Creme Frites aux Amandes, 458. 

Crepes, 457. 

Crickets, to destroy, 567. 

Croquettes, 127. 

Croup, 562. 

Croustades, 127. 

Crumpets, 468. 

Cullis, 275. 

Cup Cake, 478. 

Cure of Intemperate Habits, 566. 

Cure Bacon, Cobbett'a Eoceipt, 
333. 

Cure Bacon for Larding and Brais- 
ing, 334, 346. 

Cure Bacon, Maline's Method, 
845. • 

Cure Beef, Corned, 342. 

Cure Beef Tongue, 257. 

Cure Hams, 329, 331, 843, 344. 

Cure Hog's Cheeks, 346. 

Cure Mutton Ham, 845, 

Cure Tongues, 848. 

Curing, 341. 

Curling Hair Fluid, 553. 

Currants, Eipe, 528. 

Currant Jelly, 5i)2. 

Curry, Calf's Head, 283. 

Curry, Chicken, 364, 367. 

Curry, Custard, 525. 

Curry, Kitchener's, 221. 

Curry, Plain, 221. 

Curry Powders, 221. 

Curry Powder, Delhi, 221. 

Curry, Soyer's, 286. 
Custard, Arrowroot, 487. 
Custard, Boiled, 4S7. 
Custard, Coffee, 487. 
Custard, Cocoanut. 481. 
Custard, Cream of Chocolate, 487. 
Custard, French Mode, 487. 
Culinary Utensils, 116. 
Curtains, 22. 



Cucumbers, to pickle, 894. 
Cut, to heal, 565. 
Cutlets, k la Victime, 337. 
Cutlery, 24. 
Cutting Glass, 63. 



D 

Daily Routine of Work, 42. 
Dandelion and Parsley Tea, 52.3. 
Doubing, 142. 

December, Fish in Season for, 152 
December, Fruits in Season for, 

152. 
December, Meats in Season for, 

152. 
December, Poultry and Game in 

Season for, 152. 
December, Vegetables in Season 

for, 152. ■ 
De.aths by Burning Charcoal, 88. 
Decanters, to clean, 578. 
Decanting Liquids, 65. 
Dejeuners a la Fourchettes, 94. 
Depilatories, 555. 
Dessert, 41. 
Desserts, 102. 
Detergent Gargle, 557. 
Development of the Lungs, 559. 
Devils of Biscuits, 531. 
Devil, Dry, 531. 
Devilled Game, 581. 
Devil, Wet, 531, 
Devonshire Junket, 491. 
Diet, Children's for the Day, 529. 
Diet Bread. 4S0. 
Digester, Saucepan, 123. 
Dinners, Arrangement of, 96. 
Dinner, Consideration of, 36. 
Dinner Entrees, 100. 
Direction of the Table, 87. 
Disinfecting, 89. 
Distillation, 92. 
Distilling Spirits, 510. 
DomeMic Education <& TlwugMs 
on — 16. 
Domestic Affairs, Skill in, re- 

q\iisite, 15. 
Domestic Education, should 

be complete, 17. 
Duties to Children, 46. 
Early Ilising, an advantage, 

42. 
Household Knowledge essen- 
tial to a Lady, 42. 
Iniiuence of Women, 17. 
Late Hours destructive to 

Health, 49. 
Plan and Order necessary, 44. 
Province of Woman, 18. 
Eights and " Mission "' of Wo- 
man, 16. 
Domestic Manipulation, 59, 
Doomsday Book, 125. 
Doughnuts, 488. 
Draught for Palpitation of the 

Heart, 557. 
Draught for Hysteric Patients, 

559. 
Drawing-Roora Furniture, 22. 
Dredgings, 189. 

Dresses, Color of, to preserve, 57^ 
Dripping, 1-39. 
Dried Salmon, 530. 
Drunkenness in France, 510. 
Drying Bottles, &c., 60. 
Dry Measures, 124. 





INDEX. 


591 


Ducks, boiled, 369. 


F 


Fish, Pickled, 201. 


Ducks. Canvas-back, 370. 




Fish, Potted, 202. 


Ducts, roasted, 369. 


Family Medical Guide, 556. 


Fish, liagout of, 214. 


Ducks, Stewed with Claret, 369. 


Fancy Pastry, 426. 


Fisli, to serve, 107. 


Ducks and Teas, Stewed, 370. 


Farces and Stuffings, 248. 


Fish, Shad, roasted, 194. 


Ducklinsr with Turnips, 370. 


Farce Cuite, 245. 


Fish, Shad, preserved, 195. 


. Ducks, Wild, or Teal, 370. 


Farce, Ham and Veal, 245. 


Fish, Shad, broiled, 195. 


Dumpokht, 367. 


Farce of Veal or Fowl, 247. 


Fish, Shad, baked, 195. 


Duties of each Day, 44. 


Farce, Panada, 243. 


Fish for September, October, No- 


Duties of the Mistress, 31. 


Farce, Panada, for Fish, &c., 244. 


vember, 151. 


Dwelling: House, the, 19. 


Farce, Quenelle, 244. 


Fish, Sheepshoad, boiled, 191. 


Dye. Black, 579. 


Farce, Udder, 244. 


Fish, Shrimps, 197. 


Dye, Blue and (Jreea, 579. 


Fawn or Kid, to dress, 375. 


Fish, Smelts, fried, 196. 


Dyes, Common Eeceipts for. 


Featherbeds, to clean, 578. 


Fish, Smelts, broiled, 197. 


579. 


February, Fish in Season for, 149. 


Fish, Smelts, baked, 197. 


Dye, Eed, 5S0. 


February, Fruits in Season for, 


Fish, Soles, fried, 196. 


Dye, Slate colored, 53L 


149. 


Fish, Stewed, Hebfew fashion, 


Dye, Yellow, 580. 


February, Meats iu Season for, 


214. 




149. 


Fish, Sturgeon Cutlets, 197. 




February, Poultry and Game in 


Fish, Sturgeou, stewed, 197. 


£ 


Season for, 149. 


Fish. Sturgeon, cheaply cooked, 




February, Vegetables in Season 


197. 


Eau de Bouquet de Flore, 544. 


for, 149. 


Fish, Trout, masted, 195. 


Eau de Chypre, 543, 644. 


Feeding Children, 47. 


Fish, Trout, fried. 195. 


Eau de Colofrne, 544. 


Fermenting, 91. 


Fish, Trout, in the foreign mode, 


Eau d" Auibre Itoyale, 544. 


Fever and Ague, 553. 


198. 


Eau d' Elegance, 544. 


Fever Draught, 559. 


Fish, Trout, a la Genevoise, 198. 


Eau Jaunea 1' Amaryllis, 544. 


Filtering contrivance, 574. 


Fish, Trout, a laPrincesse Rovale, 


E»u de Javelle, 555. 


Filtering Liquids, 68. 


198. 


Eau de Miel, 544. 


First Course at Dinner, 99. 


Fish, Trout, a la Twickenham, 


Euu de vie Lavande, 543. 


First Watch Stew, 276. 


198. 


Earache, 564. 


Fish, for April, May, June, July, 


Fish, Trout, stewed, 199. 


Economv of Heat, 84. 


and August, 150. 


Fish, Turbot, boiled, 199. 


Eels a la" Tartare, 203. 


Fish Cake, 191. 


Fish, Turbot, a la Creme, 199. 


Eels, bread crumbed, 203. 


Fish, Carp, stewed, 196. 


Fish, Vol-au-vent of, 214. 


Eels, collared, 202. 


Fish, Casserole, 211. 


Flannel Cakes. 469. 


Eels, fried, 203. 


Fish, to choose, 59. 


Flax Seed Lemonade, 522. 


Eel Pie, 203. 


Fish, Cod, boiled, 190. 


Fleur d' Italie, 543. 


Eels, spitchcocked, 203. 


Fish, Cod, with Oyster Sauce, 190. 


Floating Island, 4S9. 


Eels, stewed, 203. 


Fish, Cod, au Gratin, 190. 


Floors, to clean, 88. 


Eggs, 459. 


Fish, Cod Omelette, 191. 


Fondeaux, 455. 


EgiTS, au Beurre, 532. 


Fish, Cod Sounds, Ragout of, 190 


Food, Adulteration of, 78. 


E-gg Biscuit, 469. 


Fish, Cod, slices of, 191. 


Food and Cookery for Childreu, 


Eggs and Cheese, 555. 


Fish, Cold, to dress, 211. 


526. 


Eggs, to boil, 460. 


Fish Cutlets, 213. 


Forcemeat, 244, 245. 


Egas with burnt butter, 463. 


Fish for December, 152. 


Forcemeat, another, 244. 


Eggs, fried, 462. 


Fish, Forcemeat, 245. 


Forcemeats, &c., 248. 


E% Flip, 513. 


Fish, Fricandelles of, 213. 


Forcemeat Balls for Soup Maigre, 


Egg Hot, 513. 


Fish, Haddock, 192. 


246. 


Eggs, for Turtle, 247. 


Fish, Haddock, dried. 192. 


Forcemeat Ingredients, 24S. 


Eggs in cases, 468. 


Fish, Haddock, dressed, 192. 


Forcemeat for Hare or any thing 


Eggs, to keep, 578. 


Fish, Haddock, baked, 192. 


in imitation of it, 245. 


Egss, to keep for winter, 459. 


Fish, Halibut, 191. 


Forcemeat, Oyster, 246. 


Egtrnogg, 514. 


Fish, Halibut, stewed, 191. 


Forcemeat for Turtle, 246. 


Egg Plant, 331. 


Fish, Halibut, colloped, 192. 


Forcemeat, 340. 


Eggs, to poach, 460. 


Fish, Halibut a la Creme, 192. 


Forcemeat to make Quenelles of, 


Eggs, plain baked,'462. 


Fisli, Herrings, 193. 


341. 


Eggs, pretty dish of, 463. 


Fish, Herrings, fresh, baked, 198. 


Forcemeat, Panada for, 341. 


Esgs, Randalled, 462. 


Fish, Herrings, potted, 193. 


Forcemeat Stuffing for Veal, 341. 


Egg Sauce, 215. 


Fish for January, February, and 


Forcemeat Stuffing for Hare or 


Egg scrambled, 532. 


March, 149. 


Turkey, 341. 


Egg Snow, 463. 


Fish, Mackerel, stewed, 193. 


Foreign Terms, glossary of, 126. 


Eggs and Vegetables, 463. 


Fish, Mackerel, boiled, 194. 


Fowls, fi la Bechamel, 366. 


Elder Flower Ointment, 562. 


Fish, Mackerel, broiled, 194. 


Fowls, boiled or roast, to carva 


Elder Flower Tea, 522. 


Fish with Marinade, lb9. 


114. 


Electuary for Scorbutic Eruptions, 


Fish, Matelote of, 213. 


Fowls, boiled, 361. 


559. 


Fish, I'ickerel, boiled, 196. 


Fowls, braised, 361. 


Empress Eugenie's Nosegay, 543. 


Fish, Pike, roasted, 195. 


Fowls, broiled, 362. 


Entrees at Dinner, 100. 


Fish, Pike, baked, 196. 


Fowls, forced, 360. 


Erysipelas, 558. 


Fish, Salmon, crimped a la Cr6me, 


Frfwls, fried, 802. 


Essence of White Lilac, 537. 


199. 


Fowls, fricassee of, 383. 


Essence of Beef, .518. 


Fish, Salmon, au naturel, 200. 


Fowls, Guinea, 366. 


Essentia Odorifera, 543. 


Fish, Salmon, baked, 200. 


Fowl, hashed, 361. 


Evening Parties, 41. 


Fish, Salmon, boiled, 200. 


Fowl, Indian pilau of, 366. 


Extract d' Ambre, 539. 


Fish, Salmon, broiled, 201. 


Fowls, Pea, 366. 


Eyes, Inflammation of to relieve. 


Fish, Salmon, collared, 202. 


Fowls, Pilau of, 862. 


557. 


Fish, Salmon, dried, 201. 


Fowls, PoC-le, to boil In, 360. 


' 


Fish Pat6, 212. 


Fowls, a la Provengale, 360. 



592 



Fowls, Poele, for, 863. 

Fowls, Eoast, 361. 

Fowls, Rissoles of, 363. 

Frangipane, 482. 

Freestone, to clean, 574. 

French Bread, 4S2. 

French Beans, pickled, 396. 

French Cooking, 139. 

French Pap, 527. 

Fricaudelles of Fish, 213 

Fritadella, 836. 

Fritters, 468. 

Fritters, Plain, 458. 

Fritters, Apple, 458. 

Fritters, French, 458. 

Fritters, Potato, 458. 

Fritters, Curd, 459. 

Fritters, Orange and Sweetmeat, 
469. 

Frontignac, 516. 

Frosted Fruit, 502. 

Frosting Cakes, 475. 

Frozen Pudding, 493. 

Fruit Cake, 477. 

Fruits for April, May, June, July, 
1.60. 

Fruits for August, September, Oc- 
tober, November, 151. 

Fruits to candy, .609. 

Fruits for December, 152. 

Fruits for January, February, 
March, 149. 

Fruits, to keep fresh, 578. 

Fruit for Children, 528. 

Frying, 141. 

Fry Calfs Liver, 286. 

Fry Chickens k la Malabar, 864. 

Fry Cowheels, 264, 207. 

Fry Egss, 462. 

Fry Fowls, 362. 

Fry Ham and Eggs, 830. 

Fry Mutton Chops, 300. 

Fry Pigs Feet and Ears, 327. 

Fry Po'tatoes, 377. 

Fry Kamequins, 455. 

Fry Smelts, 196. 

Fry Soles. 196. 

Fry Sweetbreads, 290. 

Fry Trout, 198. 

Fry Veal, Liver, and Bacon, 289. 

Fry Venison, 374. 

Fumiirating Paper, 553. 

Furnishing a House, 21. 

Furniture, Bedroom, 22. 

Furniture, Drawing-room, 22. 
Furniture, Kitchen, 23. 
Furniture, Nursery, 46. 



G 

Galette, 482. 

Game, all kinds of potted, 850. 

Game Course, 100. 

Gants Cosmetiques au Bouquet, 

546. 
Garlic, Pickle, 394. 
Garnishes, 248. 
Gas, Heating vessels by, 86. 
Gauffres, 429. 

German Silver, to clean, 570. 
Geranium, 63S. 
Gherkins and Kidney Beans, to 

pickle, 399. 
Gherkins, 132. 

Gigot de Mouton 8acrifl6, 525. 
Ginger, 130. 
Gingerbread, 482. 



INDEX. 



Gingerbread, Hard, 483. 

Gingerbread, Soft, 482. 

Gingernuts, 4S3. 

Ginger Wafers, 478. 

Glaize, 524. 

Glasse, Mrs., Kecipe, 18. 

Glass, 24. 

Glass Cutting, 63. 

Glass Grinding, 63. 

Glass Vessels, labelling of, 65. 

Glass, Writing on, 63. 

Glaze, 128. 

Glazing, 140, 142. 

Glazing for Tarts, 426. 

Glossary of Foreign terms in 

cookery, 126. 
Gloves, to clean, 569, 571. 
Gloves, Cosmetic, 541, 546. 
Glue, 70. 
Godiveaux, 129. 
Glycerine Balsam, 549. 
Gooseberry Fool, 492. 
Goose, Roasted, 368. 
Goose, to carve, 115. 
Goose, Marbled, 368. 
Goose, Preserved, 868. 
Goulard Lotion, 559. 
Grapes, to pickle, 399. 
Grease, to extract from silk, 570. 
Grease Spots, to take out, 570. 
Green Peas, 380. 
Green Corn Fritters, 385. 
Green Corn Omelet, 385. 
Green Corn Pudding, 385. 
Griddle Cakes, Indian, 469. 
Grillades, 629. 
Grinding Glass, 63. 
Ground Rice Milk, 522. 
Ground Rice Paste, 524. 
Ground Rice Pudding, 524. 
Grouse, 372. 
Guards' Bouquet, 548. 
Gumbo, 886. 



Hair Curling Fluid, 553. 
Hair Dves, 554. 
Hair Wash, 553. 
Hair Water, 552. 
Hams, 329. 
Ham, to bake, 831. 
Hams, boiled, 328. 
Hams, to boil, 329. 
Ham, to boil in a superior way, 328. 
Ham, to braise, 832. 
Ham, to braise in a French fash- 
ion, 832. 
Ham Cake, 851. 
Ham, to carve, 112. 

Ham, cold, Soyer's, 355. 

Ham, to cook, 328. 

Hams, to cure, 329, 331, 843, 344. 

Ham and Eggs, fried, 330. 

Ham, fried with Poached Eggs, 
330. 

Ham, Fitzimmon Receipt for cur- 
ing, 344. 

Ham Gravy, .380. 

Ham, Goose, 845. 

Hams, to keep, 56. 

Ham, Mutton, to boil, 830. 

Ham, Mutton, to cure, 845. 

Ham, to make superior to West- 
phalia, 344. 

Ham, Practical Housewife's 
Christmas, 329. 



Ham, Rashers or Slices, 338. 
Ham, to roast, 330. 
Ham, Westphalia, 344. 
Harlequinade in Cookery, 126. 
Hands, to whiten, 549. 
Harnessmaker's Jet, 673. 
Hare, Jugged, 373. 
Hare, Potted, 349. 
Hare, Roasted, 372. 
Haricot Roots, 887. 
Harness, to color, 569. 
Hashballs, 267. 
Hasty Pudding, 442. 
Heartburn, Mixture for, 561. 
Heating by Gas, 86. 
Heat. Economy of, 84 
Heliotrope, 538. 
Heliotrope, Extract of, 589. 
Hedgehog, 445. 
Herrings, to pickle, 854 
Hints and Maxims, 143. 
Hog's Cheeks, to cure, 346. 
Hog's Lard, 828. 
Hominy, 458. 

Home and housekeeping, 16. 
Absolute Rule of a Mistressi 

31. 
Care in Accounts necessary 

38. 
Care of the Sick, 50. 
Choice and Arrangement of 

Dinner Company, 38. 
Duties of each day, 42. 
Feeding Children, 47. 
Fundamental Principles, 33. 
Good Wages the best policy, 

82. 
Home, little Attachment ol 

Americans to, 15. 
Home Duties, little thought 
of in Female Education, 
15. 
Home, ruled by a Sensible 

Woman, 16. 
Home, a place of Refuge and 

Rest, 10. 
Housewifery mav be Ultra, 

16. 
Importance of Cleanliness, 52. 
Importance of Health, 34 
Important Responsibility of a 

Housekeeper, 16. 
Income and Marriage, 18. 
Management of Children, 48. 
Social Evenings, 41. 
The Nursery, 46, 
Thoughts on, 16. 
MowiekeejAng — 

Acetous Fermentation, 92. 
Adulterated Articles, 78. 
A Dwelling in Town, 19. 
Agreement with the Land- 
lord, 19. 
A Useful Art, 15. 
Bargain Hunting Perilous, 33. 
Bed-room Furniture, 22. 
Bedsteads and Bed curtains, 

22. 
Boarding, 21. 

Brushes used for cleaning, 2.6. 
Breathing Chlorine not In- 
jurious, 91. 
Calculation of Income and 

Outgoings, 17. 
Carpets, 22. 

Chloride of Lime a Disinfect- 
ing agent, 20. 
Chloride of Soda, 20. 



I 





INDEX. 


593 


Housekeeping — 


ffouseJceeping — 


Ink, Recipe for, 569. 


Chanfte of Air required con- 


Stoppering of Bottles, 61. 


Ink, blue. Recipe for, 569. 


tinually, 20. 


Style of Dinner, a test of re- 


Ink for marking linen, 55.5. 


CleaninfT, Drying, and Cork- 


spectability, 37. 


Ink Stains, to remove from the 


ing Bottles, 60. 


Stored Articles, 56. 


J3ngers, 571. 


Cofifee'Making in Turkey, T9. 


Sweeping and Dusting, 48. 


Ink, to remove from books, 571. 


Covering the Table, 3T. 


Tax on Visitors, 29. 
Teamaking in China, 79. 


Iron Work, to clean, 8s. 


Cutting, Grinding, and Writ- 


Italian Cream, 488. 


ing on Glass, (58. 


Taking a house, 18. 


Italian Pastes, 450. 


Cutlery, Crockery, China, &c., 


The Question of Dinner, 86. 




24. 


The Store room, 5-3, 54. 




Compulsory Present-Giving, 
80. 

Decanting, Straining, and Fil- 
tering of Liquids, 65. 


Thoughts on Housekeeping, 

16. 
To choose Fish, 59. 


J 


January, Fish in Season for, 149. 


To choose Meats, 56, 57, 58. 


January, Fruits in Season for, 149. 


Desserts, Teas and Suppers, 


To choose Poultry and Game, 


January, Meats in Season f(jr, 149. 


102. 


58, 59. 


January, Poultry and Game in 


Dessert, 89. 


Tying knots, 75. 


Season for, 149. 


Disinfecting Operations, 89. 


Tying over Jars, 76. 


January, Vegetables in Season for. 


Difficulty of procuring and 


Tying a Parcel, 77. 


149. - 


retaining good Servants, 


Ventilation Important, 20. 


Japanned Goods, to clean, 89. 


26. 


Weights and Scales necessary, 


Japanned Waiters, &c., to clean. 


Dining-room Furniture, 22. 


33. 


574, 


Drawing-room Furniture, 22. 


Honey Suckle, 539. 


Jeffrey Hudson in a Pie, 125. 


Dividing, Powdering, Grind- 


Hooping Cough, 556. 


Jelly, Arrowroot, transparent, 524. 


ing, &c, 72. 


Hopping John, 386. 


Jelly, Aspic, .354. 


Domestic Use of Gas in Heat- 


Horse R.adish, 132. 


Jelly, Calf's Foot, 491. 


ing, 86. 


House Furnishing, 21. 


Jelly, cheap Calf's Foot, 492. 


Expenses of a Servant, 26. 


Housekeeping Accounts, 33. 


Jellv, clear Apple, 502. 


Faraday's Use of Chlorine, 91. 


Household Articles, to keep, 54. 


Jelly Cake, 4S0. 


Fumigation and Disinfection, 


Household Linep, 25. 


Jellies, Coloring for, 502. 


20. 


Housewife's Dinner, 89. 


Jelly, Cranberry, 503. 


Furnishing a House, 21. 


Housewife's Christmas Cake, 479. 


Jelly, Chicken, 520. 


Gratuities to Servants, 29. 


Housekeeping, Principles of, 33. 


Jelly, Currant, 502. 


Hall Furniture, 21. 


Household Vermin, to destroy, 


Jelly, Easy and excellent Receipt 


Hard Water in Washing, 81. 


579. 


for, 489, 


Hedgehog, 446. 


Hungary Water, 541. 


Jelly, Iceland Moss, 523. 


Herbs for Distilling, 98. 


Hung Beef, 259, 843. 


Jelly for Invalids, 517. 


Hiring Servants, 26. 


Hunter's Beef, 268. 


Jellies for Meat or raised Pies, 


Household Linen, 25. 


Hysteric Patients, draught for, 


410. 


Household of a British Noble- 


559. 


Jelly, Port Wine, 519. 


man, 27. 




Jelly, Pork, Dr. Ratcliff's, 518. 


Household Expenditure, 17. 




Jelly, Quince, 500. 


House Kent, 21. 


I 


Jelly, Strengthening, 518. 


Impositions in Hotels, 29. 




Jelly, Tapioca, 521. 


Insult to the name of Hospi- 


Ice Cream, Almond, 491. 


Jerked Beef; 140. 


tality, 29. 


Ice Cream, Wagner's Vanilla, 490. 


Jet, Harnessmaker's, 578. 


Irish and German Servants, 26, 


Ice Cream, Wagner's Lemon, 490. 


Joints in Animals, Names of, 116. 


Kitchen Furniture, 23. 


Ice Cream, Wagner's Strawberry, 


Johnny Cakes, 469. 


Labelling of Glass Vessels, 65. 


490. 


Jophson's Soup, 524 


Ladies' Packages, 74. 


Ices, Water, 491. 


July, Fish in Season for, 150. 


Lighting of Apartments, 23. 


Icing for Cakes, 480. 


July, Fruits in Season for, 150. 


List of Articles of Silver for 


Icing for Fruit Pies and Tarts, 


July, Meats in Season for, 150. 


the Table, 24. 


4.35. 


July, Poultry and Game in Sea- 


List of Spoons, &c., 2.5. 


Iceland Liverwort Decoction, 526. 


son for, 150. 


Manufacture of cements, 69. 


Iceland Moss Jelly, 523. 


July, Vegetables in Season for, 


Marketing, 56. 


Imperial, 528. 


150. 


Mistaken Notion among 


Impressions of Butterflies' Wings, 


Jumtiles, 478. 


American Girls, 30. 


to take, 575. 


June, Fish in Season for, 150. 


Mode of Warming a House, 


Impressions of Leaves, 573. 


June, Fruits in Season for, 150, 


19. . 


Importance of Health, 84. 


June, Meats in Season for, 150. 


Mode of Liberating Chlorine, 


Income and Living, 18. 


June, Poultry and Game in Sea- 


90. 


Indelible Marking Ink, 575. 


son for, 150. 


Pictures on the wall, 21. 


Indigestion, Medicine for, 557. 


June, Vegetables in Season fot 


Placing Dishes on the Table, 


Ingredients of Food, 78. 


150. 


99. 


India Pickle, 898. 




Process of Boiling, 82. 


Infant's Food, 527. 




Process of Distillation, 92. 


Infection, to prevent, 90. 


K 


Qualifications of Servants, 28. 


Intlammation of Eyes, 557. 




Requisites in a Cook, 27. 


Infant's Aperient, 564. 


Kabobs, 580. 


Kooms in a House, 19. 


Infnsion do Lavande Eouge, 543. 


Kedgeree, 524. 


Saccharine Fermentation, 91. 


Infusion de Camomile Eomaine, 


Kedgeree for breakfast, 213. 


Sleeping in close rooms in- 


543. 


Ketchup, Camp, 404. 


jurious, 20. 


Infusidn of Esprit de Safran, 544. 


Ketchup, Cucumber, 408. 


Soyer's Housewife's Dinner, 


Infusion of Absinthe, 544. 


Ketchup, Mushroom, 402. 


39. 


Infusion de Canelle, 544. 


Ketchup, Pontac, 406. 


Soyer's List of Kitchen Arti- 


Infusion Esprit de Ehodia, 544. 


Ketchup, Seven years', 404 


cles, 23. 


Infusions Spirituous, 543. 


Ketchup, Tomato, 404. 



5'Ji 


INDEX. 




Ketchup, Tomato, for winter us ), 


Lamb Sweetbreads as Cutlets, 817. 


Marinade for meats, 2.50. 


404. 


Lamb Sweetbreads, roasted, 317. 


Marinade for collared meats, 354 


Ketchup, Walnut, 403. 


Lamb Sweetbreads, larded a la 


Marjor.am, 137 


Ketchup, Walnut, best quality, 


Daube, 317. 


Marketing, 56. 


4:3. 


Lamb Sweetbreads, to stew, 816. 


Marking Ink, 575. 


Ketchup, Walnut, Irish mode. 


Lamb Sweetbreads, white, fri- 


Marmalade, 504. ^,^ 


im. 


casseed, 816. 


Marmalade, Apple, 504 ^^^ 


Kettles and Saucepans, to clean, 


Lamb Trotters, 318. 


Marmalade, Orange, 505.^ 


576. 


Larding. 142. 


Marmalade, Pear, 501. 


Kid Gloves, to clean, 5G9. 


Lard, to melt, 828. 


Marmalade, Quince, 500. 


Kisses, 4S4. 


Lard, Hog's, 828. 


Miirrow Pudding, 524. 


Kitchen Articles, 123. 


Larks or small birds, 365. 


Marrow Bones, 264, 278. 


Kitchen Clock, wanted, 123. 


Lavender AVater, 544 


Maruiw Bones, baked, 273. 


Kitchen Furniture, 23. 


Laving the cloth, 9S. ' 


Mastic Cement, 72. 


Knifeboard, to make, 573. 


Laying out of Tables, 94 


Marrow Patties, 421. 


Knives, to clean, 89. 


Laying out Tray or Sideboard, 99. 


Marshmallow Emulsion, 523. 


Knives and Forks, 575. 


Lechii crema, 4bS. 


Mattresses, to clean, 578. 


Knots, 74. 


Leeches, 561. 


May, Fish in Season for, 150. 


Kringlcs, 4S2. 


Lemonade, .511, 524. 


M.ay, Fruits in Season for, 1.50. 




Lemonade, Flaxseed, 522. 


May, Meats in Season for, 150. 




Lemons and Oranges in Jelly, 505. 


May, Poultry and Game in Season 


L 


Lemon flavoring for Puddings. 


for, 150. 




402. 


May, Vegetables in Season for, 150. 


Labelling of Glass vessels, 65. 


Lettuces and Endives, 889. 


Mrvyonnaise, 392. 


La Iv Cake, 4S0. 


Liebig's plan for boiling meat, 88. 


Me.ad without fruit, 511. 


Lait de Foule, -524. 


Lily of the Valley Essence, 539. 


Meats fo«- January, February, 149. 


Lait do Eose, 546. 


Liiiia Beans, 384. 


Meats for March, 149. 


LaTiib, a L' Espagnole, 815. 


Lime, Cement of, 568. 


Meats for April, May, June, July, 


Lamb, an Pascal, 315. 


Linen, Household, 25. 


150. 


Lamb, Blanquette d' Agueau, a la 


Linen, to perfume, 571. 


Meats for August, September, 151. 


Provenyale, 315. 


Linen, to t.ake stains out of, 567. 


Meats for October, November, 151. 


l>amb. Breast of, braised, boiled. 


Linseed Emulsion, 523. 


Meats for December, 152. 


314. 


Liquids, Decanting, 65. 


Meat Jelly, to clarify, 855. 


Lamb, Breast of, to stew, 815. 


Liquids, Filtering,' 68. 


Meat Pies, 409. 


Lamb Chops, 316. 


Liquid Glue, 70. 


Medicnl Guide, Family, 556. 


Lamb, to choose, 57. 


Liquid Measures, 124. 


Meats for Children, 529. 


Lamb, Chevaux de Frise, 815. 


Lip Salve, .549. 


Medicine for Indigestion, 557. 


Lamb Sweetbreads, with chevaux 


Lip Salve, common, 549. 


Meringues, 493. 


de Frise, 315. 


Liverwort Decoction, 526. 


Meringues, a la crime, 494 


Lamb with Lamb sweetbread, 


Lobscous. 275. 


Milk, Ass's, 520. 


315. 


Lobster, boiled, 204. 


Milk, artilieial Ass's, 520. 


l^amb, to bone a Quarter, 814. 


Lobster, curried, 205. 


Milk, baked, 520. 


Lamb, Forequarter of, 311. 


Lobster, Crt>quettes of, 205, 


Milk Rolls, 471. 


Lamb. Forequarter, to carve, 112. 


Lobster, Garniture for Omelettes, 


Milk, toast, 471. 


Lambs Fry, 314. 


464. 


Millet Pudding, 523. 


Lamb's Head, 814 


Lobster, au gratin, 205. 


Mincemeat, 427, 428. 


Lambs Head with Brain or Liver, 


Lobster, Salad, Italian, 205. 


Mince Pies, 427. 


314. 


Lobster Salad, 20.i, 392. 


Mint, 132. 


Lamb's Head with Hollandaise, 


Lotion, Goulard, 559. 


Miroton of Apples, 449. 


314. 


Luncheons. 9.5. 


Mistress, Duties of the, 81. 


Lamb"s Head and Emincees, 317. 


Luxuries of different ages, 125. 


Miscellaneous Keceipts, 56T. 


Lamb's Heart Sweetbre.nds, larded 




Mixed Pickle, 897. 


with Bacon or Truffles, 317. 




Mixture for Children teething, 


Lamb's Leg, to boil, 312. 


M 


557. 


Lamb's Leg, to roast, 312. 




Mixture for Diarrhea, 559. 


Lamb's Loin, to grill, 812. 


Mace, 180. 


Mock Cream, 490. 


Lamb's Loin, stewed, 813. 


Macaroons 484. 


Mock Ginger, 506. 


Lamb's Leg or Shoulder with 


Maccaroni, 450. 


Molasses Posset, 521. 


Peas, 813. 


Macearoui, Timbale of, 450. 


Morels, 3S9. 


Lamb's Leg, boiled with Spinach, 


Maccaroni, Pat6 of, 4.i0. 


Movable Screen, 123. 


313. 


Mackenzie's Perigord Pie, 418. 


Mouth Glue, to make, 70. 


Lamb's Lesr or Shoulder with 


Mahogany, to restore the color of. 


Mouton, Blanquette de, 802. 


French Beans, 31.3. 


573. 


Muffins, 468, 470. 


Lamb's Neck, a la Jardiniere, 313. 


Maids of Honor, 485. 


Mulled Cider, 514 


Lamb, Piedsd' Agnean, 317. 


Miignoli-i, Essence, .539. 


Mush, 458. 


Lamb, Saddle of, 312. 


Management of Children, 48. 


Mushrooms, 883. 


Lamb, Saddle, Kussian fashion, 


:Mnngoes, 397. 


Mushrooms, boiled, 888. 


318. 


Maiupulation, Domestic, 59. 


Mushroom Garniture fbr Ome- 


Lamb, Shoulder of, 312. 


Marble, to clean, 570. 


lettes, 464. 


Lamb, Shou'.ii-r. braised, 814. 


Marbled, Goose, 368. 


Mushrooms, to pickle, 894 


Lamb's Shoidder, forced and 


Marbled Veal, 29.5. 


Mushrooms, to Pot, 351. 


braise<l, 3i2. 


March, Fish in Season for, 149. 


Musk, 540. 


Laml>'s Shoulder, larded, 312. 


Mavfh, Fruits in Season for, 149. 


Mustard, 131, 147. 


L^imb Stones, to fricasse, 315. 


M.'irch, .Meats in Season for, 149. 


Mustard, French, 406. 


Lamb Sweetbreads, 3i0. 


Itlaicli, Poultrv and Game in Sea- 


Mutton, Camp dish, 810. 


Lamb Sweetbreads, brown, 816. 


sim for, 149. 


Mutton, to choose, 57. 


Lamb Sweetbread Cutlets au 


March, Vegetables In Season for, 


Mutton Bagpipe with Endive 


gratin, 817. 


149. 


811. 





INDEX. 


595 


Mntton, Breast of, stewed, 800. 


Mntton, Soyer's new chop, 299. 


Orangeade, 521. 


Mutton, Breast of, to collar, 353. 


Mutton, Tails and Kidneys, 307. 


Orange Flower Essence, 5.39. 


Mutton, Breast of, au gratin, 


Mutton, Tails and Tongues, 308. 


Orange Fool, 492. 


80it. 


Myrtle Essence, 539. 


Order and Method, 45. 


Mutton, China chilo, 303. 




Oysters, a I'lmperiiile, 210. 


Mutton, another wav, 303. 




Oysters, Breaded, 210. 


Mutton, braised Cutlets, 301. 


N 


Oysters, Broiled, 209. 


Mutton, cutlets of, 301. 




Oyster Curry, 210. 


Mutton, cutlets saute, 301. 


Nail in the Foot, 565. 


Oyster Forcemeat, 246. 


Mutton, Maintenon, 301. 


Nails to whiten, 549. 


Oyster Fritters, 209. 


Mutton Chops, broiled, 300. 


Napkins to fold, 95. 


Oyster Garniture for Omelettes, 


Mutton Choi)s, fried, 800. 


Nn]ikins as the Mitre, 95. 


464. 


Mutton Chops as Beefsteaks, 300. 


Napkins, as the Exquisite, 95. 


Oyster Pie with Sweetbread, 210. 


Mutton Cotelettes, a la Mainte- 


Napkins, as the Collegian, 96. 


Oysters, Pickled, 211. 


non, 805, 806. 


Napkins, as the Cinderella, 96. 


Oysters, Eoasted, 210. 


Mutton Cutlets with Soubise or 


Naiikin.s, as the Flirt, 96. 


Oyster Eolls, 209 • 


Onion sauce, 305. 


Napkihs, the Neapolitan, 96. 


Oyster Sausages, 210. 


Mutton, a better method, 806. 


Nii|)kins, the Favorite, 96. 


Oysters, Scalloped, 208, 209, 211. 


Mutton Cotelettes, a la Polonaise, 


Nasturtiums, 182. 


Oyster, Stewed, 211. 


806. 


Nasturtiums, pickled, 896. 


Oysters with Brown Sauce, 209. 


Mutton Cotelettes, en Eagout, 


N eats' Tongue, to choose, 56. 


Oysters with White Sauce, 209. 


306. 


Neats' Tongue, potted, 850. 


Ox-Cheek, to collar, 353. 


Mutton Cotelettes, aux Haricots 


Neats' Tongue, 291. 


Oxford Dumplings, 450. 


verts, 300. 


Negus, 516. 


Ox-Feet, 272. 


Mutton, au Gratin, or scollops, 


Nettlerash, 560. 


Ox-Heart, 270. 


304 


New Tear's Cookies, 478. 


Ox-Kidneys, 272. 


MuHon, an Endish Haggis, 310. 


Nipple Liniment, 564. 


Ox-Tails, a la Jardiniere, 269. 


Mutton, Fillet of, 801. 


Nougat, 494. 


Ox-Tails, au Gratin, 269. 


Mutton, Fillet of. stewed, 302. 


November, Fish in Season for, 


Ox-tongue, Eemains, 272. 


Mutton in Marinade, 802. 


151. 




Mutton, French Eagout of, 309. 


November, Fruits in Season for, 




Mutton, Haricot, 302. 


151. 


P 


Mutton Hams, to dress, 305. 


November, Meats in Season for, 




Mutton, hashed, .303. 


151. 


Packing Housekeeping Articles, 


Mutton, Haunch of, to carve, 112. 


November, Poultry and Game in 


576! 


Jiutton. H.aunch ot; 297. 


Season for, 151. 


Pain Perdu, 449. 


Mutton, Irish, stew of, 803, 310. 


November, Vegetables in Season 


Pains after exertion, 564 


Mutton, Kebobbed, 302. 


for, 151. 


Paint, to clean, 89. 


Mutton Kidneys, 307. 


Noyau, 516. 


Paint, Outside, 568. 


Mutton Kidneys, broiled, 805. 


Nursery Furniture, 46. 


Paint, to take out, 575. 


]\rutton, Leg of, roasted, 297. 


Nutmeg, 130. 


Palpitation, Draught for, 557. 


Mutton, Lea, roasted, boned, and 




Panada, 519. 


stutfed, 297. 




Panada, Chicken, 519. 


Mutton, Leg of, boiled, 298. 





Panada, for Fish, 244. 


Mutton, Leg of, braised, 298. 




Panada for Quenelle, 244. 


Mutton Leg of, to carve, 110. 


October, Fish in Season for, 151. 


Panada for Forcemeat, 244 


Mutton, to dress a Leg of, with 


October, Fruits in Season for, 


Pancakes, 457. 


Ovsters, 297. 


151. 


Pancakes, Apple, 467. 


Mutton, Leg of, to stuff, 297. 


October. Meats in Season for. 


Pancakes, Dutch, 457. 


Mutton, Leg steaks, 800. 


151. 


Pancakes, New England, 457, 


Mutton, Leg, cut to send to table 


October, Poultry and Game in 


Pancakes, Eice, 45L 


neatly, 298. 


Season for, 151. 


Parsley, 132. 


Mutton, Loin steaks, 800. 


October, Vegetables in Season for. 


Parsley, to fry, 373. 


Mutton, Loin of, to carve. 111. 


151. 


Parsnips, 382. 


Mutton, Loin of, stewed, 299. 


Oeufs, Brouilles, 463. 


Parties, Evening, 41. 


Mutton, Loin of, like Venison, 


Oeufs, Farcis, 462. 


Partridges and Pheasants, to pot, 


305. 


Oeufs, Frits, 462. 


348. 


Mutton, like Venison, 304. 


Oeufs, sur le Plat, 462. 


Partridges, broiled, 871. 


Mutton, Minced. .803. 


Oils for the Hair, 545. 


Partridges, Salmi of, 371. 


Mutton, Neck of, to carve, 111. 


Oil and Grease, to take out of 


Partridges, stowed, 371, 


Mutton, Neck of, 299, 300. 


boards, 570. 


Passover Balls for Soup, 247. 


Mouton, Eognon de, a la Pran- 


Ointments, 559. 


Passover Cakes, 483. 


gaise, 304. 


Ointment, Elderflower, 562. 


Paste, to make. 70, 571. 


Mutton, Eumps and Kidneys, 


Ointment, Simple, 559. 


Paste, Flaky, 426. 


807. 


Ointments Eesin, 559. 


Paste, permanent, 70. 


Mntton, Eisseroles, 304. 


Ointment, Calamine, 559. 


Paste of Beef or Mutton, to eat 


Mutton, Saddle of, to carve. 111. 


Olives, 134. 


like Venison, 422. 


Mutton, Saddle of, 297. 


Omelettes, 460. 


Paste, very light, 409. 


Mutton, Saddle of, a la Polonaise, 


Omelettes, aux Amandes, 461. 


Paste, Puff, 408. 


298. 


Omelette Cod. 191. 


Paste, Almond, 482. 


Mutton, Scrags of, k la St. Mene- 


Omelette, aux Confitures, 461. 


Paste, 406. 


hould, 307. 


Omelette, aux Fines Herbes, 461. 


Paste for chapped hands, 545. 


Mutton, Shoulder of, 299. 


Omelette, d' Huitres, 461. 


Paste for chapped lips, 546. 


Mutton, Scrag of, to carve, 111. 


Omelette, au Naturel, 461. 


Paste, Eye, 50S. 


Mutton, Shoulder of, with Eice, 


Omelette, Soufflee, 461. 


Pastilles for the breath, 554. 


299. 


Onions, 131, 388. 


Pastilles, au Benzoin, 558. 


Mutton, a Scotch Haggis, 804, 


Onions, Spanish, 380. 


Pastilles for Necklaces, Bracelets 


810. 


Onions, pickled, 893, 394 


, &c.,554 



596 


INDEX. 




Pastilles, h la Rose, 553. 


Pickle Grapes, 399. 


Pig's Head, boiled, 825. 


Pastilles, Simple, 553. 


Pickle Herring, 354. 


Pig's Head, to collar, 325. 


Pastry, Fancy, 426. 


Pickle Kidney Beans, 399. 


Pig's Harslet, 32T 


Patchouly, 539. 


Pickle, Mixed, 397. 


Pig's Feet, stewed, 326. 


Patchoulv Extract, 540. 


Pickle Mushrooms, 894 


Pig's Kidnevs, 835. 


Pate, Divine de Venus, 548. 


Pickle Onions, 393, 394 


Pigs Head, "to collar, 353. 


Pat6, des Foies Gras, 412. 


Pickle Oysters, 211. 


Pig's Cheek, 822. 


Pato, d" Amandes des aux Jaunes 


Pickle Peaches, 398. 


Pigs Face, for breakfast, 322. 


d' oenfs, 54S. 


Pickle Plums, 398. 


Pig, Roast, 320. 


Patties, 423. 


Pickle for Meat, 854 


Pig, Uoa.'-t, to carve, 113. 


Patties, Croustade or Dresden, 


Pickle Neck of Pork, 822, 827. 


Pig, to roast, 319. 


433. 


Pickle Salmon, 201. 


Pig, Sucking, to roast, 318. 


Patties with curds, 434 


Pictures on the wall, 21. 


Pig, Sucking, to scald, 319. 


Patties like Mince Pies, 434. 


Picture Frames, to preserve, 


Pig, Sucking, Hindquarter oil 


Patties, sweet, 430. 


570. 


319. 


Peafowls, 366. 


Pie, Apple, 428. 


Pigeons, broiled, 364. 


Peas, Garniture for Omelettes, 


Pie, a fine Fish, 424. 


Pigeons, to carve, 116. 


464. 


Pie, a Christmas, 422. 


Pigeons, compote of, 865. 


Peas, Sweet, Essence of, 540. 


Pie, Beefsteak, 417. 


Pigeons, cooked as Woodcock, 


Pencil Marks, to preserve, 571. 


Pie, Beefsteak and Oyster, 421. 


365. 


Peaches and Apricots, to pickle, 


Pie, Calf's Head, 417. 


Pigeons, in Jelly, 865. 


893. 


Pie, Calf's Head or Calf's Foot, 


Pigeons, or any Bird in Aspic 


Peas, Green, 3S0. 


420. 


Jelly, 365. 


Peas, to preserve, 387. 


Pie, Calf's Foot and Kidney, 421. 


Pigeons," potted, 350. 


Peas Pudding, 3S6. 


Pie, Chicken, 418. 


Pigeons, Roasted, 364 


Pennyroyal, 132. 


Pie, Cocoanut, 426. 


Pigeons, Stewed, 865. 


Pepper, 130. 


Pie, Codfish 424. 


Pilau of Fowl, 862. 


Peppers, to pickle, 399. 


Pie, Cold Veal or Chicken, 417. 


Pilau, Indi.an, 366. 


Perfumery and the Toilet, 537. 


Pies, Cold, 419. 


Pills, Aperient, 563. 


Perfume Linen, 571. 


Pie, Cracker, 427. 


Pimples, 562. 


Perigord Pie, 407. 


Pies, Duck, 418. 


Pithcalthlv Bannock. 481. 


Perigord Pie, Mackenzie's 418. 


Pies, Eel, 414 


Placing Dishes at Dinner, 99. 


Perle Powders, 547. 


Pie, Fish. 418. 


Plants, to drv, 571. 


Pernicious effects of Distilling 


Pie, French, 419. 


Plate, 24, 25. 


Spirits, 510 


Pie of P'owls, raised, 410. 


Plate, to clean, 89. 


Pets de Nonne, 481. 


Pies, Fruit, 425. 


Plaster for Pains, 568. 


Pettitoes, 326. 


Pie, Game, 418. 


Plovers, 371. 


Pheasants, 375. 


Pie, Giblet, 413. 


Plover's Eggs, 371. 


Pheasants, to carve, 115. 


Pie, Gooseberry and other Fruits, 


Plum Cake, 47.5. 


Pickle for Meat, 854. 


428. 


Plums, pickled, 3P8. 


Pickled Apple Codlings, 400. 


Pie, Green Goose, 418. 


Plum Porridge, 43S. 


Pickled Artichokes, 399. 


Pie, Grouse, 414 


Plum Pudding Glac6, 49-3. 


Pickled Barberries, 399. 


Pie, Hare, 419. 


Plummer's Pill, 5.59. 


Pickled Butternuts, 399. 


Pie, Lamb, 413. 


Piiele, French. 303. 


Pickled Beans, French, 395. 


Pie, Lamb, hot, 411. 


Piiele, to boil Fowls in, 860. 


Pickled Cabbage, Purple, 396. 


Pies, Lent, 430. 


Peeling, 141. 


Pickled Cabbage, Ked, 396. 


Pies, Mince, 427. 


Polenta, 451. 


Pickled Cabbage, White, 396. 


Pie, Mutton, 412. 


Polished Irons, to keep from rust- 


Pickled Caulitiower, 396. 


Pie, Oyster, 416. 


ing, 569. 


Pickled Celery, 396. 


Pie, Partridge, 414. 


Polish for Tables, 567. 


Pickled Cucumbers, 394. 


Pie, Peach, 426. 


Pomatum, 545. 


Pickled Gherkins and Kidney 


Pie of Pheasant, raised, 411. 


Pommade de Beaute, 549. 


Beans, 399. 


Pie, Pigeon, 413. 


Pommade for chapped lips, 549. 


Pickled Garlic, 394. 


Pie, Plain Custard, 427. 


Pommade, Victoria, 545. 


Pickled Grapes, 399. 


Pies, Pork, to eat cold, 420. 


Pommade, des Sultanes, 548. 


Pickle, India, 398. 


Pie, Pumpkin, 426. 


Pommade, de Ninon de 1' Enclos. 


Pickle, Mixed, 397. 


Pie, Rabbit, 413. 


548. 


Pickled Mangoes, 397. 


Pies, Raised, Crust for. 407. 


Pommade for Tumors, 564. 


Pickled Mu.shrooms, 394 


Pie. Raised, Russian, 410. 


Pommade for Corns, 564. 


Pickled Nasturtiums, 896 


Pie, Raised, served hot, 410. 


Pone of Sweet Potato, 885. 


Pickled Onions, 393, 394 


Pies, Rhubarb, 426. 


Pork, 818. 


Pickled Peaches and Apricots, 


Pie, Rumpsteak, 412. 


Pork, to choose, 57. 


898. 


Pie, Snipe, 418. 


Pork, boiled, of all kinds, 322. 


Pickled Peppers, Green, 899. 


Pie, Squab, 421. 


Pork, Chops or Steaks, 323. 


Pickled Plums, 398. 


Pies, Various, 412. 


Pork, baked fagots, 827. 


Pickled Quince, 39S. 


Pie, Veal, in a dish, 417. 


Pork, chine, 321. 


Pickled Kadish Pods, 395. 


Pie, Veal and Ham, 412. 


Pork, Cutlets, 321, 322. 


Pickled Shalots, 394 


Pie, Veal and Oyster, 420. 


Pork, Economical dish of, 828. 


Pickled Tomatoes, 397. 


Pie, Veal and Sausage, 420. 


Pork, Fillet, to resemble Vea\ 


Pickle, to last for vears, 347. 


Pie, Veal and Sweetbread, 420. 


320. 


Pickle Apricots, 39S. 


Pie, Vegetable, 419. 


Pork, Griskin, 318. 


Pickle Beef, a la Garrick, 274 


Pie Yorkshire, Goose, 422. 


Pork, Hashed, 335. 


Pickle Cabbage, purple, 896. 


Pig, to Collar, 853. 


Pork, Head Cheese, 324 


Pickle Cabbage, red, 396. 


Pig's Feet, 335. 


Pork, Jelly, 518. 


Pickle Cabbage, white, 896. 


Pig's Feet, ii la St. Menehould, 


Pork, Leg of, boiled, 820. 


Pickle Cucumbers, 894 


826. 


Pork, Leg of, roasted, 820. 


Pickle Garlic, 394 


Pig's Feet and Ears, fried, 327. 


Pork, Leg of, to carve, 112, 


Pickle Gherkins, 899. 


Pig's Head, baked, 325. 


Pork, Leg of, 821. 



INDEX. 



597 



Pork, Leg, mock Goose, 321. 

Fork, Liver Pudding, 324. 

Pork, Loin, 320. 

Pork, Neck, rolled, 320. 

Pork, to pickle, 322, 34T. 

Pork, to restore, 331. 

Pork, Sparerib, roasted, 320. 

Pork, Sparerib, 31S. 

Pork, Spring or forehand, 330. 

Pork, Soiise, 326. 

Pork Tongues, 331. 

Porridse, 528. 

Port Wine Jelly, 519. ' 

Potatoes, 377. 

Potato Barm, 467. 

Potatoes, Biscuits of, 379. 

Potato Cheesecakes, 483. 

Potatoes, to brown, 378. 

Potatoes, a la Maitre d' Hotel, 

379. 
Potatoes, fried, 379. 
Potato Flour, 373. 
Potato Jelly, 3T8. 
Potato Loaves, 378. 
Potatoes, to keep, 377. 
Potatoes, to mash, 378. 
Potatoes, New, 377. 
Potato Omelette, 379. 
Potatoes and Peas for children, 

529 
Potato and Meat Salad, 271. 
Potato Eissoles, 379. 
Potato Sandwiches, 270. 
Potatoes, to roast, 379. 
Potato Souffle, 379. 
Potato Wall, 378. 
Pot Pie, 414. 
Pot Pourri, 552. 
Pot Pourri, Sweet, 545. 
Potting and Collaring, 347. 
Pot all kinds of Game, 350. 
Pot Beef, 267, 349. 
Pot Beef like Venison, 349, 351. 
Pot Birds, 349. 
Pot Chicken and Ham, 349. 
Pot Cowheels, 264 
Pot Hare, 349. 
Pot Mushroopis, 351. 
Pot Neat's Tongue, 350. 
Pot Partridges, 348. 
Pot Pheasants, 348. 
Pot Pigeons, 350. 
Pot Poultry and Game, 343. 
Pot Rabbits, 349. 
Pot Salmdn, 202. 
Pot Smelts, 350. 
Pot Veal, 282, 850, 354. 
Pot Venison, 859. 
Poudre, de la Mer Rouge, 547. 
Poultice, Bread and Water, 557. 
Poultry, 356. 
Poultry and Game for December, 

152. 
Poultry and Game for January, 

February, March, 149. 
Poultry and Game, for April, 

May, June, July, 150. 
Poultry and Game for August, 

September, October, Novem- 
ber, 151. 
Poultry and Game, to pot, 348. 
Poultry and Game, to choose, 

58. 
Pound Cake, 478. 
Powdering, 72. 

Preparation for bad breath, 554 
Presents to servants, 29. 
Preston Salts, 551. 



Preserve Apples, 499. 
Preserve Apricots, 501. 
Preserve Barberry Cakes, 506. 
Preserve Blackberry Jam, .505. 
Preserve Blackberries whole, 503. 
Preserve Brandy Cherries, 506. 
Preserve Brandy Peaches, 501. 
Preserve Cherry Jam, 505. 
Preserve Crab Apples, 499. 
Preserve Currants, 503. 
Preserve Currants, dry, 504. 
Preserve Currant Jam, 503. 
Preserve Figs, Green, 504 
Preserve Figs, ripe, 504. 
Preserve Ginger, 504. 
Preserve Gooseberries, 502. 
Preserve Green Corn, 507. 
Preserve Grapes in Brandy, 503. 
Preserve Green Gages, 501. 
Preserve Lemon Peel, 506. 
Preserve Mock Ginger, 506. 
Preserve Nectarines, 501. 
Preserve Oranges or Lemons in 

Jelly, 505. 
Preserve Peaches, 501. 
Preserve Peaches, fresh, 507. 
Preserve Pe.ars, 501. 
Preserve Pineapples, 499. 
Preserve Pineapple Tart, 499. 
Preserve Plums, 501. 
Preservina:, General Directions 

for, 499. 
Preserve Quinces, 499. 
Preserve Raspberries, 503. 
Preserve Raspberry Cakes, 506. 
Preserve Raspberry Jam, 505. 
Preserve Strawberries whole, 

503. 
Preserve Tomatoes fresh, 507. 
Preserve Tomatoes, ripe or 

green, 5o4. 
Preserve Watermelon Rind, 498. 
Primrose Ointment, 557. 
Principles of Housekeeping, 30. 
Prussian Cutlets, 336. 
Pudding, Almond, 442. 
Pudding, Almond and Sauce, 

441. 
Pudding, Batter, 448. 
Pudding, the Baked Plum, 440. 
Pudding, Baked Apple, 442. 
Pudding, Beef Steak, 414, 438. 
Pudding, Bird's Nest, 443. 
Pudding, Black Cap, 448. 
Pudding, Boston, 441. 
Pudding, Boston Cracker, 447. 
Pudding, Brandy, 447. 
Pudding, Bread, baked, 444 
Pudding, Bread and Butter, 446. 
Pudding, Brown Bread, 446. 
Pudding, Demi Plum. 445. • 
Pudding, Chocolate, 447. 
Pudding, Cocoanut, 445. 
Pudding, Chicken, baked, 4.38. 
Pudding, English Plum, 440. 
Pudding, Farina, 442. 
Pudding, Fine German, 448. 
Pudding, Fish. 417. 
Pudding, Frozen, 493. 
Pudding, Fruit, 436. 
Pudding, Game, 438. 
Pudding, Gloucester, 450. 
Pudding, Goose, 4;j9. 
Pudding, Ground Rice, 440, 445. 
Pudding, Ground Rice with Fruit, 

445. 
Pudding, Hasty, 442. 
Pudding, Indian, 444 



Pudding, Jenny Lind, 441. 
Pudding, Kidney, 416. 
Pudding, Lamb, 415. 
Pudding, Lemon, 442. 
Pudding, Maccaroni, 445. 
Pudding, Marlborough, 440. 
Pudding, Marrow, 439. 
Pudding, Meat, 436. 
Pudding, Mutlin and Crumpet, 

447. 
Pudding, Mutton, 415. 
Pudding a la Nesselrode, 449. 
Pudding, Newcastle, 441. 
Pudding, Oatmeal, 445. 
Pudding, Orange, 44.3, 448. 
Pudding, Paradise, 442. 
Pudding, Plain Rice, 44.3. 
Pudding, Polka, 441. 
Pud.ling, Pork, 415. 
Pudding, Potato, 426. 
Pudding, Pumpkin, 426. 
Pudding, Quaking, 447. 
Pudding, Quince, 448. 
Pudding, Riibbit, 416. 
Pudding, Richelieu, 441. 
Pudding, Rich Plum, 439. ■ 
Pudding, Roly Poly, 448. 
Pudding, Sago, 444. 
Pudding. Sponge, 447. 
Puddings, Suet, 437. 
Puddings, Sweet, 4;36, 439. 
Puddings, Sweetmeat, 448. 
Puddings, Tansy, 439. 
Puddings, Tapioca, 444. 
Puddings, Yorkshire, 416, 4.33. 
Puddings, Veal, 415. 
Puddings, Vermicelli, 447. 
Puffs, Light, 429. 
Puffs, Spanish, 484 
Puff Paste, 408. 
Punch, 513. 
Punch, Milk, 514 
Punch, English, 518. 
Punch, French, 514 
Punch. Norfolk, 513. 
Punch, Regent's, 513. 
Punch, Tea, 514 
Punch, Victoria, 514 
Punch, Wine, 514. 
Pur6e of Cauliflower, 2.36. 
Puree of Cucumber, 239. 
Puree of Onion, 227. 
Puree of Lobster, 186. 
Puree of Turnips, 1S4. 
Pur6e de Volaille, 363. 



Q 

Quaking Pudding, 447. 

Qualifications of Servants, 28i 

Quihi Sauce, 240. 

Queen Cake, 477. 

Quenelles, 129. 

Quin's Sauce, 406. 

Quince, Pickled, 398 

Quince Pudding, 448. 

Quinces, to preserve, 499. 



E 

Rabbit, to carve, 113. 
Rabbits, Fricasseed, 872. 
Rabbits, Potted, 349. 
Rabbits, to skin, 373. 
Rabbits, Pilau o^ 873. 



598 


INDEX. 




Babbits, to taste like Hare, 372. 


TJose, Tea, Essence of, 541. 


Sauce, Celery, 22.5, 248. 


Ka'iish Pods, pickled, 395. 


Rose, Triple, Esprit de, ^40. 


Sauce, Chestnut. 229. 


liasofit of Cod Sounds, 190. 


Rose, White, Essence of, 540. 


Sauce, Chetnev and Quihi, 240. 


Raa;ofit of Fi^li, 214. 


P.oiitineof Daily Work, 42. 


Sauce, Cod, 2t'7. 


Kiiised Crust for Pies, 407. 


Kuditiients of Cookery, 136. 


Sauce, Cranberry, 243. 


Kaini^qiiin.-i, 45.5. 


Rusk, to niake, 469, 470. 


Sauce, Culiis, -m. 


Eamoi|airis, a la Parisienne, 455. 




Sauce, Culiis, the, 240. 


Kanieiiuiiis, fried, 455. 




Sauce, Currant, 232. 


Kainifolle, 386. 


S 


^"auce, Curry Powder, Delhi, 221. 


Eatilias, 4S4, 511. 




Sanee, Curry, Kitchener's, 221. 


Ri ,nains of Ox Tongue, 272. 


Sachet, a la Frandpanre, .')52. 


Sauce, Curry Powders, 221. 


lleiuiet, 490. 


Sachet, Heliotrope, .552, 552. 


Sauce, Curry, plain, 221. 


liennet Whey, 52-3. 


Sachet, Lavender, 5.52. 


Sauce, Curry, Soyer's, 236. 


Rheuuiatism, Medicine for, 560,582. 


Sachet, a la Mousselaine, 552. 


Sauce, Demi Glaze, 233. 


Kibbons, to wash, 572. 


Sachet, MiUefleur, 5.52. 


Sauce for Ducklings, 2.32. 


Rice and Apples, 528. 


Sachet, Portugal, 552. 


Sauce Dutch, French Receipt, 


Rice, to boil, 4.')2. 


Sachet, Patchouly, 552. 


227. 


Rice Bread, 466. 


Sachet, Rose, 552. 


Sauce, Eel, 217. 


Rice Cake. 485. 


Sack Posset, 518. 


Sauce, Egg, 215,224. 


Rice, Croquettes. 452. 


Salft-on, 134. 


Sauce, Epicurean, 222, 


Rice, Casserole de Ris, 453. 


Sage, 132. 


Sauce, Eschalot, 284. 


Rice Croquettes, with Apricot 


Sago Fruit Pudding, 525. 


Sauce, a TEspagnolo, 238. 


Marmalade, 453. 


Sago Gruel, 522. 


Sauce, Fennel, 215, 223, 226. 


Rice Cakes, 46S. 


Salads, 390. 


Sauce for Fish, 214, 217. 


Rice Fritters, 452. 


Salad, Chicken, 890, 391. 


Sauce, Fish of all kinds, 214 


Rice Flummery, 491. 


Salad, Family, 271. 


Sauce, Fresh Pork, 220. 


Rice, Gateau of, 453. 


Salad Dressing, 390. 


Sauce for Fricandeau, 231. 


Rice Gruel, 521. 


Salad, Dressing for Lettuce, 390. 


Sauce, Garlic, 235. 


Rice Pudding with Fruit, 528. 


Salad, Fish, 892. 


Sauce, Gooseberry, 231. 


Rice for Savory dishes, 452. 


Salad of Fowl, 391. 


Sauce, for Geese, '^31. 


Rice Milk, 443. 


Salad, Lobster, 392. 


Sauce, Glaze, French Receipt, 


Rice for Sweet Dishes, 452. 


Salad, Mayonnaise, 892. 


227. 


Rice Water, 52.3. 


Salade, Pickle, 406. 


Sauce, Gravy, 218. 


Richmond Maids of Honor, 436. 


Salade, Sidney Smith's Receipt 


Sauce, Gravy, clear, 220. 


Rich Gravy, 222. 


for, 889. 


Sauce, Gravy, to make Mutton 


Ringworm, cure for, 557. 


Salads, Summer, 391. 


taste like Venison, 220. 


Ris de Veau, en Caisses, 294. 


Salads, Winter, 391. 


Sauce, Gravy, stock for, 219. 


Rissoles of all kinds, 227, 247. 


Sally Lunn, 468. 


Sauce, Gravy, for Venison Haunch, 


Rissoles of Fowl, 363. 


Salmon, Dried, 530. 


220. 


Roasting, 137. 


Salsify, 3S0, 382. 


Sauce. Gravy, for Veal, 220. 


Roast Beef of Lamb, 296. 


Salsop, 185. 


Sauces, Gravies, &c., 213. 


Roast Beef, Sirloin, 251. 


Salt, Bav, 129. 


Sauce, Gravy, rich, 222. 


Roast Beef Steaks, 255. 


Salt, Rock, 129. 


Sauce, Harvey, 225. 


Roast Beef Tonsue, 202. 


Sandwiches, 582. 


Sauce, a 1' Hollandaise, 233. 


Roast Ducks, 369. 


Sangaree, 514. 


Sauce, Horseradish, 214, 224 


RoastFilletof Beef, 251. 


Saponaceous Cream of Almonds, 


Sauce, Hot Spice, 222. 


Roast Fillet of Veal, 267. 


547. 


Sauce, India Pickle, 237. 


Roast Fowls, 361. 


Sauce, Anchovy Butter, 28.5. 


Sauce, Italian, for Salads, 226. 


Roast Goose, 368. 


Sauce, Anchovy, Butter of, 215. 


Sauce, Lemon, for boiled Fowls, 


Roast Ham, 330. 


Sauce, Anchovy, for Fish, 215. 


228. 


Roast Hare, 872. 


Sauce, a V Allemande, 241. 


Sauce, Lemon, white, 228. 


Roast Leg of Lamb, 312. 


Sauce, Apple, 232. 


Sauce, Liaison, 231. 


Roast Leg of Mutton, 297. 


Sauce, Apple, Savory, 232. 


Sauce, Liaison of Eggs, 2-35. 


Roast Leg of Pork, 320. 


Sauce, Aspic, the, 221. 


Sauce, Liver, 229. 


Roast Meat to baste, 139. 


Sauce, Bechamel, 227, 228. 


Sauce, Liver, for boiled Chickens, 


Roast Meat to brown, 139. 


Sauce, Beef Gravy, 220. 


229. 


Roast Meat to froth, 139. 


Sauce, Beef Gravy, French Re- 


Sauce, Lobster, 218. 


Roast Oysters, 210. 


ceipt, 220. 


Sauce, Lobster, a la Crcme, 215. 


Roast Pig, 319, 320. 


Sauce, Blanche, 228. 


Sauce, Lobster, French, 216. 


Roast Pigeons, 864. 


Sauce, Blonde of Veal, 240. 


Sauce, Lobster, new, 215. 


Roast Pike, 195. 


Sauce, Bread, 228. 


Sauce, Lobster, simplified, 216. 


Roast Potatoes, 379. 


Sauce, Brown, 21.5. 


Sauce, Lobster and Shrimp, 216. 


Roa^t Shad, 194. 


Sauce, Brown, Cucumber, 234. 


Sauce, for made dishes, 233. 


Roast Shoulder of Venison, 375. 


Sauce, Brown, Mushroom, 235. 


Sauce, Mandram, 224. 


Baast S[,arerib, .320. 
Efast Sucking Pig, 318. 


Sauce, Brown, Mushroom, thin, 


Sauce, la Magnonnaise, 239. 


234. 


Sauce, Maisre, 288. 


Roast Trout, 195. 


Sauce, Brown Sharp or Poivrade, 


Sauce, Maitre d" Hotel butter, 223. 


Roast Sweetbreads, 291, 817. 


237. 


Sauce, h la iMaitre d' Hotel, 231. 


Roast Turkey, 356. 


Sauce, Brown, Soyer's, 28.3. 


Sauce, Matelote, 217. 


Rocks. 468. 


Sauce, Brown Tliickoning, 228. 


Sauce, Matel'ite, simplified, 217. 


Rolls. 468. 


Sauce, Caper, Brown, 223. 


Sauce, Melted Butter, 222. 


Rondaletia, Essence of, 540. 


Sauce, Caper, for Fish, 215. 


Sauce, Melted Butter, to brown, 


Rooms, Airing of, 35. 


Sauce, Caper, a la Francaise, 241. 


22.3. 


Rose, 540. 


Sauce, Caper, to imitate, 241. 


Sauce, i la :Militaire, 405. 


Rose Face Powder, 546. 


Sauce, Caper, for Meat, 242. 


Sauce, Minced Herb, 284 


Rose Lip Salve, 549. 


Sauce, Caper, White, 223. 


Sauce, Mint, 226. 


Rosemary, Otto of, 541. 


Sauco, Carachi, 2,39. 


Sauce, Mint, for Lamb, 235. 


Rose, Moss, Essence of, 540. 


Sauce, Carrack or Indian, 222. 


Sauce, Mint, for Roast Lamb, 224. 





INDEX. 


1 

599 


S<tuce, Mushroom, 224. 


Sausages, Beef; §ks. 


Silk, to clean, 570. 


Sauce, Mushroom Ketchup, 242. 


Sausages, Black Puddings, 327, 


Silver, to clean, 571. 


Sauce, Muasel, 217. 


340. 


Silver Flowers, to paint on Silk 


Sauce, Nasturtium, 243. 


Sausages, Black and White, 327. 


571. 


Sauce, Onion, 225. 


Sausages, Bologna, 324. 


Simnel, 429. 


Sauce, Onion, Brown, 225. 


Sausage Cakes, 334 


Sippets, 519. 


Sauce, Onion Puree, 236. 


Sausage, to eat cold, 338. 


Slip, 489. 


Sauce, Orange, for Game, 235. 


Sausages, Fowl or Rabbit, 339. 


Smearcase, 454. 


Sauce, Oransie Gravy, 226. 


Sausages and Forcemeat, 337. 


Smelts, Potted, 850. 


Sauce, Oude; the Original, 239. 


Sausage Meat, 333. 


Soap, to keep, 55. 


Sauce, Oyster, 225. 


Sausages, Mutton, 338. 


Soaps, 547. 


Sauce, Papillotte, 235. 


Sausages, Oyster, 333. 


Soap, Frangipanne, 547. 


Sauce, Parsley and Butter, 223. 


Sausages, Spanish and Portuguese, 


Soap, to keep, 54. 


Sauce, Piquant, 23S. 


339. 


Soap, Transparent, 547. 


Sauce, Piquant or Sharp, 234. 


Sausages, Spiced, 325. 


Soda, in washing, 55. 


Sauce, Poivrade, 237. 


Sausage Toast, 630. 


Somersetshire Fromity, 523. 


Sauce, a la Proven? ale, 238. 


Sausages, University Receipt for. 


Souffle of Ajjples, 453, 


Sauce, Puree of Cauliilower, 236. 


324. 


Soups, 155. 


Sauce, Puree of Cucumber, 289. 


Sausages, Veal and Poultry, 339. 


Soup. Asparagus, ^vith Green 


Sauce, Puree of Onion, 227. 


Sausages, White, 325, 827, 340. 


Peas, 180. 


Sauce, Queen Mary's, 224. 


Savon au Miel, 547. 


Soup, del Asperge, 180. 


Sauce, Kavigote, 2-34 
Sauce, a la«eine, 239. 
Sauces for Roast Fowls, 230. 


Savory, 132. 


Soup, Autumn, 168. 


Savory Dishes for Breakfast, 529. 


Soup, Baked, 169. 


Scorzonera, 380, 382. 


Soup, Bean, ISO. 


Sauce, Robert, 227. 


Scarlet Fever, 556. 


Soup, Brown Gravy, 157. 


Sauce for Roast Beef and Mutton, 


Scotch Woodcock, 530. 


Soup, Brown, Stock for, 157. 


224. 


ScoUops of Caifs Liver with 


Soup, Browning for, 159. 


Sauce, Robert, Soyer's, 234 


herbs, 292. 


Soup Cabbage, 182, 


Sauce, Royale, 239. 


Scollops of Sweetbread with Peas, 


Soup, Cock-a-Leekie, 165. 


Sauce, Roux, 231. 


292. 


Soup, .a la Creel or Carrot, 182. 


Sauce for Salmon, 216. 


Scorched Linen, to renew, 570. 


Soup, Clam, 1S6, 187. 


Sauce for Shrimp, 216, 218. 


Scotch Short Bread, 483. 


Soup, Cottage. 164 


Sauce, 8oyer"s, 235. 


Sea Kale, 382. 


Soup, Eel, 1S7. 


Sauce, Spinach, Puree, 237. 


Sea Pie, 276. 


Soup, Family, 163. 


Sauce, Spinach, 233. 


Seasoning for Raised Pies, 410. 


Soup, Fish, ISo. 


Sauce, a la St. Menehonld, 239. 


Seasoning for a Goose, 248. 


Soup, 4 la Franfaise, 163. 


Sauce for Steaks and Chops, 


Seasoning for Stuffing, 245. 


Soup, Glblet, 109. 


248. 


Seasoning for Roast Pork, 248. 


Soup, Gravy, 161. 


Sauces, Store, 405. 


Seasoning for Ducks or Geese, 


Soup, Green Pea Porridge, 182. 


Sauce, Soubise, 227. 


248. 


Soup, Hare, 1 78. 


Sauce for Sucking Pis, 232. 


Seasoning for a Sucking Pig, 248. 


Soup, Hare or Wild Duck, 178. 


Sauce, Tarragon, 226,'~234. 


Second Course at Dinner, 100. 


Soup, Harico, 162. 


Sauce a la Tartare, 220. 


Seed Cake 4S0. 


Soup, Hessian, 167. 


Sauce, Tomato, 226. 


Semonlina, 527. 


Soup, Hotch Potch, 166. 


Sauce, Tomato, Soyer's, 235. 


September, Fish in Season for. 


Soup, Hotch Potch, English, 163. 


Sauce, Truffle, 229. 


151. 


Soup, Italienne, Isil. 


Sauce, Tournee, 240. 


September, Fruits in Season for, 


Soup, Jophson's, 624. 


Sauce, Tomato, Franf aise, 242. 


151. 


Soup, a la Julienne, ISO. 


Sauce, Tomatoes, Garniture, 242. 


September, Meats in Season for, 


Soup, Julienne, with Consomme. 


Sauce, Tomato, a 1' Italienne, 


151. 


181. 


242. 


September, Poultry and Game in 


Soup, Julienne. Soyer's, 181. 


Sauce, Tomato Ketchup, 243. 


Season for, 161. 


Soup, Jenny Lind's, 162. 


Sauce, Veal Gravy, 240. 


September, Vegetables in Season 


Soup, Lake and Pond Fish, 188. 


Sauce, Veloute of Bechamel, a 


for, 161. 


Soup, Lamb, 168. 


new method, 241. 


Servants, 26. 


Soup, Leek or Onion, 183. 


Sauce, Vegetable Marrow, 230. 


Serve Fish, 107. 


Soup, Leg of Beef Broth, 168. 


Sauce, Veloute, the, 241. 


Serving Dinner, 40. 


Soup, Lobster, 185. 


Sauce, Veloute, 22ii. 


Serving Breakfasts, 43, 94 


Soup, Maccaroni, 182. 


Sauce, Walnut Ketchup, 243. 


Servants" Duties, 42. 


Soup, Maccaroni, with Consomme, 


Sauce, White Cream for Puree, 


Servants' Perquisites, 28. 


ISl. 


237. 


Shalots Pickled, 394 


Soup, Mock Turtle, 172, 177. 


Sauce, White, 214, 229, 230. 


Sha\'ing Pastes, 555. 


Soup, Mock Turtle, English, 175. 


Sauce, White Roux, 228. 


Sheep's Head, 308. 


Soup, MuUagatawny, 170. 


Sauce, White, for Chickens, 229. 


Sheep's Rumps and Kidneys, 


Soup, MuUagatawny, Soyer's, 166L 


Sauce for White Poultry, boiled. 


135. 


Soup, Muliagatawny, English, 


229. 


Sheep's Tails and Kidneys, 307. 


167. 


Sauce, White, Soyer's, 232. 


Sheep's Tails and Tongues, 308. 


Soup, Mutton, 168. 


Sauce, White, very good, (new) 


Sheep's Tongues stewed, 805. 


Soup, I^Iutton Broth, 169. 


236. 


Sheep's Trotters, 309. 


Soup, New England Chowder 


Sauces for Wild Fowl, 2.32. 


Sheep's Tongues with Turnips, 


187. 


Sauce, White Thickening, 238. 


811. 


Soup, Neat's Feet, 173. 


Sauce, Worcester, 419. 


Sheep's Tongues with Cabbage 


Soup, Ocnra, 161. 


Saucepan Digester, 123. 


Lettuces,"311. 


Soup, Onion, 183. 


Sauer Kraut, 3S3. 


Shellfish, to pot. 348. 


Soup, Ox-tail, 163. 


Sauer Kraut, to serve, 383. 


Short Cakes, 468. 


Soup, Oyster, 186. 


Saucisses, au Chataignes, 325. 


Slioes, to make Waterproof 578, 


Soup, Partridge. 179. 


Saucisses, a 1' Espagnole, 324. 


Sick, Cookery for, 51T. 


Soup, Pepperpot, 161, 184 


Sausages, 323, 824. 


Sieves, 124 


Soup, Pepperpot Hotchpotch, 16S 



600 


1 

INDEX. 




Boup Pigeon, 178. 


Stew Loin of Laftib, 313. 


Tea, Beef, 518. 


Soup, Potato Maigre, 1&3. 


Stew Loin of Mutton, 299. 


Tea Cream, 498. 


Soup, Potaprc li la Heine, 170. 


Stew Mackerel, 193. 


Tea, Dandelion and Parsley, 523. 


Soup, Portable. 159. 


Stew Xeck of Veal, 279. 


Tea, Klderflower, 522. 


Soup, Portable White, 160. 


Stew Partridges, 871. 


Teas, 103. 


Soup, Potage a la Keine (Udcs), 


Stew Pigs Feet, .826. 


Termn, Foreign, Glossary of— 


177. 


Stew Kump Steak, 269. 


Atalcts. 126. 


Soup, Pot au feu, French, 162. 


Stow Sheeji's Tongues, 305. 


Baba. 126. 


Soup, Pot au feu, 161. 


Stew Shoulder of Venison, 375. 


Bain Marie, 126 


Soup, Puive of Lobster, 186. 


Stew Sturgeon, 197. 


Bard, 120. 


Soup, Puree of Turnip, 184. 


Stew Sweetbreads, 290, 311. 


Beisnet, 126. 


Soup, h la Keine Victoria, 167. 


Stew Trout, 199. 


Blunc, 126. 


Soup, Eice, 170. 


Stew Watercress, 888. 


Blanch, 126. 


Soup, Rice and JToat, 168. 


Stock for Gravy, 219. 


Blanquette, 127. 


Soup, Rice Cream, 177. 


Stoppering, 61. 


Bouilli, 127. 


Soup, Sago, 165. 


Stove. Cooking, 85. 


Bouillon, 127. 


Soup, a la Sap, 167. 


Stove, Cottager's, 85. 


l!on(|uet, 127, 


Soup, Saute, 1S4. 


Stufling, 245. 


Boiicpiet garni, 127. 


Soup, Savory Jelly, 179. 


Straining Liquids, 58. 


Bouiguignote, 127. 


Soup, Scotch Kail, 164. 


Strensrthening Jelly, 518. 


Braise, 127. 


Soup, Scotch Broth, 165. 


Strasburg Potted Meat, 274. 


Brioche, 127. 


Soup, Scotch Barley Broth, 169. 


Succotash, 884. 


Buis.si-n, 127. 


Soups, Seasonings for, 156. 


Suet, 147. 


Calli|.ash, 127. « 


Soup, Snapping Turtle, 179. 


Sugar, 134. 


Cnllipee, 127. 


Soup, Sheep's Heafl, 165. 


Sugar Almonds, 509. 


Capil()t.ade, 127. 


Soup, Soyer"s Brown Gravy, 158. 


Sugar, to boil for Spinning, 508. 


Caramel, 127. 


Soup, Soyer's Glaze, 150. 


Susar Bonbon.s, 509. 


Casserole. 127. 


Soup, Sorrel, 18-S. 


Sugar Cake, 479. 


Civet, 127. 


Soup, Spring, 167, 181, 184. 


Sugar, to clarify, 508. 


Compeigne, 127. 


Soup, Stock for Fish, 185. 


Sugar, Degrees of boiling, 508. 


Compotier, 127. 


Soup, Stock for all kinds of, 158. 


Sugar Taftie, 509. 


Compote, 127. 


Soup, Stock for White, 156. 


Suppers, 103. 


Consomra6, 127. 


Soup. Summer, 168. 


Sweetbreads, 290. 


Couronne, 127. 


Soup, Tomato, 180, 183. 


Sweetbreads, fricasseed brown, 


Court, 127. 


Soup, la Tortue, 178. 


291. 


Coulis, 127. 


Soup, Transparent, 160. 


Sweetbread, Croquettes of, 291. 


Croquettes, 127. 


Soup, Turtle, 171. 


Sweetbreads, Croquettes of, 


Croustades, 127. 


Soup, Veal Broth, 168, 170. 


French Receipt, 292. 


Croutons, 127. 


Soup, Veal Potage, 170. 


Sweetbreads, Fricasseed White, 


Dorez, 127. 


Soup, Vegetable, 179. 


291. 


Dorure, 127. 


Soup, Voloute, 178. 


Sweetbreads, F^ied, 290. 


En papillote, 127. 


Soup, Venison, 171. 


Sweetbreads, a la Daube, 290. 


Entremets, 127. 


Soup, White, 161, 163. 


Sweetbreads, Roasted, 291. 


Entree, 127. 


Soup, White Stock, 160. 


Sweetbreads, to roast, 291. 


Farce, 128. 


Soup, Winter. 168. 


Sweetbreads, Stewed, 290. 


Financiere, 128. 


Soup, Winter Pea, 182. 


Sweetbreads, Scollops of, with 


Flan, 128. 


Soup, Winter Vegetable, 184 


Green Peas, 292. 


Faggot, 128. 


Soy, 135. 


Sweet Corn, 885. 


Fricandeaux, 128. 


Spinach, 382. 


Sweet Potato Pone, 885. 


Gateau, 128. 


Spiritwash, 558. 


Syllabub, 489. 


Glaze, 128. 


Sponges, to clean, 568. 


Syllabub, Country, 491. 


Glaze Ice, 128. 


Sponge Cake, 477. 


Sympathetic Inks, 573. 


Godiveau, 128. 


Sprain, 560. 




Gras, 123. 


Sprains and Bruises, 560. 




Gratin, 128. 


Spring, Aperient, 563. 


T 


Hors d' Oeuvre, 12a 


Squashes or Oynibelins, 385. 




Lard, 128. 


Squash, Winter, 3S5. 


Table, Direction of, 87. 


Lardon, 128. 


Steel Forks, to clean, 89. 


Table Furniture, 87. 


Liaison, 128. 


Steel Pens, to preserve frona cor- 


Tables, Laying out of, 94. 


Madeleine, 128. 


rosion, 581. 


Tainted Meat, to restore, 254. 


Maigre, 128. 


Stewintr, 142. 


Tamarinds, 524. 


Marinade, 128. 


Stew Be.ans, 886, 


Tankard, Cool, 513. 


Mash, 128. 


Stew Beef, 2.52, 256. 


Tapioca, 135. 


Matelote, 128. 


Stew Beef Steaks, 255. 


Tapioca Milk, 525. 


Meringue, 128. 


Stew Beef Tonsrue, 262, 


Tarragon, 132. 


Miroton, 128. 


Stew Breast of Lamb, 315. 


Tart, Apricot, 428. 


Nouillcs, 128. 


Stew Bre.ist of Mutton, .800. 


Tart, Codling, 428. 


Panada, 128. 


Stew Brisket of Beef, 258, 262. 


Tarts, Cranberry, 432. 


Pate, 128. 


Stew Breast of Veal, 278. 


Tartlets of Almond Paste, 488. 


Po61ee, 128. 


Stew Carp, 196. 


Tartlets, Green Apricots, 431. 


Posset, 128. 


Stow Crabs, 207. 


Tart. Green Gooseberry, 433. 


Potase, 128. 


Stew Duck and Peas, 369. 


Tartlets, a la Paganini, 482. 


Pot au feu, 128. 


Stow Fillet of Mutton, 802. 


Tartlets, Prune, 432. 


Pur6e, 12S. 


Stew First Watch, 276. 


Tartlets, Lemon, 431. 


Quenelles, 129. 


Stew Fish, 214. 


Tarts, Small Fruit, 481. 


Rissole, 129. 


Stew Halibut, 191. 


Tartlets with Strawberries, 488. 


Koux, 129. 


Stew Knuckle of Veal, 279. 


Tea, 496. 


Salmi, 129. 


Stew Lobster, 204.' 

1 


Tea, Balm, 521. 


Sabotiere, 129. 



INDEX. 



601 



Sauter, 129. 

Tamis, 129. 

Terrapins, Stewed, 203. 

Test of the Utility of Know- 

ledse 15. 
Ttiird Course at Dinner, 100. 
Tourner, 129. 
Toiirte, 129. 
Vanner, 1 29. 
Veloute, 129. 
Vol au vent, 129. 
ThoughU and Maxims on House- 

keepino. 15. 
All Soups. 14S. 
Apples, to choose and keep, 

146. 
Bag for Tape, Strings, But- 
tons, &c., 145, 
Bones for Soup, 144. 
Bread Pounded for Puddings, 

144. , 

Brewis, 144. 
Brooms, 145. 
Buffaloes' Tongues, 145. 
Carrots, 14T. 
Cauliflowers, 147. 
Celery, 147. 
Cleanliness the first, second, 

and third requisite for a 

Cook, 143. 
Clean Hands always, 14S. 
Ciild Water cracks Iron, 14S. 
Copper Vessels dangerous, 148. 
Corning; Meat, 146. 
Cover Castors, 145. 
Cover Flour, Sugar, &c., 14.3. 
Deaths from rust on copper 

vessels, 144. 
Dinner plates hot, 144. 
Dirty Saucepans dangerous, 

144. 
Eggs in Lime water, 144 
Empty Saucei)ans after using, 

143. 
Fish, to cook, 148. 
Foundation of poverty or 

riches, 144. 
Fragments of time valuable, 

144. 
Game, to clean, &c., 147. 
Gravies, 147. 
Herbs, to dry, 146. 
Herbs, to keep, 145. 
Horseradish, 145. 
Hams, to put away, 146. 
Honey, 146. 
Jelly Bags, 143. 
Ironing Blanket and Sheet, 

145. 
Keep Tin and Copper clean, 

143. 
Kitchen, dirty, a Disgrace, 148. 
Knives, to wash, 145. 
Knives and Forks to keep 

from rusting, 145. 
Keeping Meats, 146. 
Keep Onions from other 

things, 143. 
Lamps, to prevent from smell- 
ing, 144. 
Lard, to melt, 147. 
Lemonpeel Brandy, 145. 
Legs of Mutton, cured, 146. 
Marjoram, sweet, to dry, 144 
Molasses, to improve, 145. 
Maxims, 143. 
Mustard, to mix, 147. 
Onions on Ropes, 14s. 

3S 



Orange or Lemon peel in Pots, 
146. 

Ox Gall, its use, 144. 

Pastry, to bake, 14S. 

Place for every thing, 146. 

Potatoes in Shortcakes, &c., 
146. 

Pudding Towels, 148. 

Raisin Wine, 148. 

Reindeer's Tongues, to imi- 
tate, 145. 

Roselcavos in Brandy, 145. 

Sago, to prepare, 147" 

Salt and Sperm Candles in 
Starch, 145. 

Shoulder of Veal economical, 
145. 

Soap, cut and dry, 146. 

Soak soiled clothes, 145. 

Stone on Meat in pickle, 145. 

Stock Pot never empty, 146. 

Smoking Meat, 146. 

Stocks and Sauces, 148. 

Suet, 147. 

Surveillance of the Mistress 
necessary, 148. 

Tin and Wooden ware, 144 

Tongue, to soak, 147. 

True Economy of Housekeep- 
ing, 144. 

Towels in the Kitchen, 145. 

Wax, to sejiaratefrom Honey- 
comb, 145. 
Thyme, 432. 

Tincture of Benzoin, 544 
Tincture of Santal-citrin, 544 
Tincture of Sassafras, 544 
Tin Covers, to clean, 57 
Tins, 574 

Tipperary Curry, 419. 
Tipsy Cake, 483. 
Toad in a Hole, 416. 
Toast, Anchovy, 530. 
Toast, German, 580. 
Toast Ham, 530. 
Toast Kidney, 5.30. 
Toast Sausage, 530. 
Toast Vegetable, 530. 
Toast Water, 521. 
Toilet, the, 537. 
Tomatoes, 38.5. 
Tomatoes, to stuff, 386. 
Tomatoes, Garniture of, 242. 
Tomatoes, Pickled, 897. 
Tomatoes, to keep fresh, 507. 
Tomatoes, Ripe or Green, to pre- 
serve, 504 
Tomato Sauce, 226. 
Tomato Sauce, Soyer's, 235. 
Tomato Ketchup, 343. 
Tomato Sauce, a 1" Italienne, 242. 
Tomato Sauce, Francaise, 242. 
Tomatoes, Scolloped, 386. 
Tomato Soup, 180, 183. 
Tongues, Beef, 262. 
Tongue, Beef, to cure, 257. 
Tongue, Beef, to dress. 257. 
Tongue, Beef, fresh, 26.3. 
Tongue, Beef, larded, 257. 
Tongue, Beef, to eat cold, 262. 
Tongue, Beef, and Udder, fresh, 

263. 
Tongues, to cure, 843. 
Tongues, to carve, 112. 
Tongues, Pork, 331. 
Tongue, to roast, 262. 
Tongue, to stew, 262. 
Tongues, Pigs', 331. 



Tongues and Tails, Sheep's, 30-3. 
Tongues, Sheep's, 343. 
Tongues, Sheep's, stewed, 305. 
Tongues, Sheep's, with Turnips, 

Tongues, Sheep's with Cabbage, 

Lettuces, 311. 
Tooth Powder, 552. 
Top Pot, 139. 
Tops and Bottoms, 471. 
Toi-tue, la. Soup, 173. 
Tournee Sauce, 240. 
Training of Children, 49. 
Transparent Crust, 408. 
Transparent Soap, 547. 
Transparent Soup, 160. 
Tride. German, 489. 
Tritles, Gooseberry or Apple, 489. 
Trifles, 445. 

Triple Esprit de Rose, 540. 
Trotters, Sheep's, 309. 
Trout, Stewed, 199. 
Trout, in the Foreign mode, 198. 
Trout, Roasted, 195. 
Trout, Fried, 195. 
Truffle, 1.33. 
Trutiles, 889. 

Truffles with Champagne, 389. 
Truffle Sauce, 229. 
Truss Chickens, 105. 
Truss Fowls, 105. 
Truss a Goose, 104. 
Truss Hare or Rabbit, 106. 
Truss Pheasants, 105. 
Truss Pigeons, 106. 
Trussing Poultry, 103. 
Trussing Small Birds, 106. 
Trussing a Turkey, 104. 
Trussing Wild Fowl, 106. 
Tumors, Pomade for, 564 
Turbot a la Creme, 199. 
Turesicus, 310. 
Turkey, Boiled, 357. 
Turkey, Boiled, braised, 358. 
Turkey or Fowl, forced, 357. 
Turkey Giblets, i la Bourgeois, 

367. 
Turkey, Hashed, 857. 
Turkey, with Sausage meat, 356. 
Turkey, to roast, 356. 
Turkey with Sausage meat and 

Tongues, 357. 
Turkev Poult, 857. 
Turkey, Pulled and grilled, 360. 
Turkev, with flat Sausage Cake, 

357. 
Turkey, Roast, braised, 358. 
Turkey, if old, 359. 
Turkey, Roast or boiled, to carve, 

113. 
Turnips, 882. 
Turnips, whole, 389. 
Turnip Puree Soup, 184. 
Turnips, Puree of, 3S9. 
Turnips, with Duckling, 370. 
Turtle, 212. 
Turtle, Eggs for, 247. 
Turtle Soup, 171. 
Twickenham Trout, 193. 
Tying Down, 61. 
Tying Parcels up, 77. 
Tying Vessels over, 76. 



TJdder, Beef, 263. 
Udder Farce, 244. 



602 



INDEX. 



University Eeceipt for Sausages, 

324. 
Cnstoppering, 61. 
Utensils, Culinary, IIG. 



Vanilla, 1^4. 

Vanilla, Extract of, 541. 

Vapor Hath, 5()4. 

Vapor Alooholique, 551. 

^'aruish lor Mahogany, 5(57. 

Veal, Breast of, to collar, 353. 

Veal, Cervelles de veau Fricassees, 

•2S9. 
Veal, to choose, 56. 
Veal, Blanquettes, 295. 
Veal, Blonde of, 240. 
Veal, Breast of, to carve, 109. 
Veal, Breast of, 278. 
Veal, Breast of, to stew, 278. 
Veal, Breast of, forced, 278. 
VealBroth, 163, 170. 
Veal Cake, 294. 
Veal CoUops, to dress quickly, 

233. 
Veal, Collops of, 2S1. 
Veal, a la Gliartreuse, 295. 
Veal, cold Scollops of, 295. 
Veal, Curry of, 296. 
Veal, Curry, 2S7. 
Veal Cutlets, 280. 
Veal Cutlets and Celery, 284. 
Veal Cutlets, Crumbed or plain, 

2S0. 
Veal Cutlets, curried, 280. 
Veal Cutlets, a la Hollandaise, 284 
Veal Outlets with White Sauce, 

2S4. 
Veal Cutlets, a la Maintenon, 281. 
Veal Cutlets en papillotte, 283. 
Veal Cutlets and Kice, 284. 
Veal Cutlets, another way, 280. 
Veal, Fillet of, boiled, 277. 
Veal, Fillet of, boiled, English, 

277. 
Veal Farcies, 284. 
Veal, Fillet of, to carve, 109. 
Veal, Fillet of, roasted, 277. 
Veal, Fillet of, to roast, 277. 
Veal, Fricandels of, 286. 
Veal, Fricandi-au of, 286. 
Veal. G-alantine, 281, 287. 
Veal Garniture en Ragout, 294 
Veal Gravy, 220, 240. 
Veal, Haricot of, 287. 
Veal, Hashed, 282. 
Veal, Knuckle, 278. 
Veal, Knuckle of, to carve, 109. 
Veal, Ivnuckle of, boiled, 278. 
Veal, Knuckle of, stewed, 279. 
Veal Liver and Bacon, fried, 289. 
Veal, Loin, boiled, 278. 
Veal, Loin, braised, 282. 
Veal, Loin, roastetl, 277. 
Veal, Loin of, to carve, 109. 
V.>al, to marble, 295. 
Veal, t(* mince, 296. 
Veal, to mince, Turkish way, 296. 
Veal, Miroton of, 286. 
Veal, Neck of, to carve, 109. 
Voal, Nock, braised, 279. 
Veal, Neck, with new Potatoes, 

279 
Veal, Neck, with Peas, 279. 
Veal. Neck, stewed, 279. 
Veal, OUves of; 28T. 



Veal Olives roti, 281. 

Veal, Potted, 350, 854 

Veal, Potted, 2S2. 

Veal Potage, 171. 

Veal and Poultry Sausages, 889. 

Veal Puddings, 415. 

Veal, Queues of, 283. 

Veal, Rolled, 285. 

Veal Rolls, 295. 

Veal, Scotch Collops, 283. 

Veal, Shoulder of, 279. 

Veal, Scollops of Sweetbreads, 
292. 

Veal, Shoulder of, to carve, 110. 

Veal, Tendons of, 231. 

Vegetable Soup, 179. 

Vegetables, to keep, 55. 

Vegetables for children, 529. 

Vegetables for April, May, June, 
July, 150. 

Vegetables for August, Septem- 
ber, October, November, 151. 

Vegetables for December, 152. 

Vegetables for January, February, 
149. 

Vegetable Marrow, 230. 

Vegetables for March, 149. 

Velout.', the, 220, 241. 

Veloute of Bechamel, 241. 

Veloute Sauce, 220. 

Veloute Soup, 178. 

Venison, to choose, 57. 

Venison, Fried, 374. 

Venison, Hashed, 374 

Venison, Haunch of, to carve, 112. 

Venison Haunch, 374. 

Venison Haunch Gravy, 220. 

Venison, Neck of, to carve, 112. 

Venison Pastv, 407. 

Venison, Piitted, 350. 

Venison, Shoulder of, roasted, 375. 

Venison, Shoulder of, stewed, 
375. 

Venison Soup, 174. 

Venison Steaks, 374 

Ventilation, 20, 582, 

Verbena, Extract of, 541. 

Verbena or Vervaine, 541. 

Vei;Juice, 134. 

Vermicelli, 451. 

Vermicelli, au Lait, 526. 

Vermicelli Puddings, 447. 

Vermin, to destroy, 579. 

Verviene, Extrait de, 541. 

Vials, to wash, 576. 

Victimized Cutlets, 837. 

Victoria Punch, 514 

Vinegar, Aromatic, 549. 

Vinegar, Camp, 400. 

Vinegar, Celery, 404 

Vinegar, Chili, 402. 

Vinegar, Cider, 401. 

Vinegar, Cucumber, 400. 

Vinegar, Elderllower, 401. 

Vinegar, Flavored, 401. 

Vinegar, a Fleur d" Orange, 551. 

Vinegar, Gooseberry, 402. 
Vinegar, Henry's, 550. 

Vineuar, Horserailish, 402. 

Vinegar, for India Pickle, 400. 

Vinegar Infusion of Flowers, 551. 

Vinegar, Mint, 550. 

Vinegar, Nasturtium, 401. 

Vinegar, Raspberry, 401, 511. 
Vinegar, iv la liose, 550. 
Vinaigre, Rosat, 551. 
Vinaigres, 551. 
Yinaigres Scintilliquos, 551. 



Vinegar, Sugar, 401. 

Vinegar, Thieves, 550. 

Vinegar de Toilette, 550. 

Vinaigre, Virginale, 550. 

Vinegar, "Walnut, 400. 

Violet Essence, 539. 

Violet Powder, 546. 

Volaillo Puree, 363. 

Vol au Vent, 42:3, 4Su. 

Vol au Vent of Croquettes, 424 

Vol au Veut of Fruit, 431. 

Vol au Vent of Green Gooseber- 
ries, 431. 

Vol au Vent of Orange, 431. ' 

Vol au Vent of Peaches, 4)^0. 

Vol au Vent of Pigeons and Sweet- 
breads, 424 

Vol au Vent, Rhub.arb, 431. 

Vol au Vent of Veal, 424 



W 

Wafer Cakes, 470. 

Waffles, Rice, 470. 

Waffles, Soft, 470. 

Wagner's Vanilla Ice Cream, 490. 

Wagner's Lemon Ice Cream, 490. 

Wagner's Strawberry Ice Cream, 

491. 
Wainscots, to clean, 576. 
Waiting at Table, 101. 
Walls, Papered, to clean, 573. 
Walnut Ketchup, 243. 
Warming House, 19. 
Warts, to eradicate, 548. 
Wash Balls, 544. 
Wash colored things, 571. 
Wassail Bowl, 512. 
Water Cress, stewed, 388. 
Water Ices. 491. 
Water Gruel, 521. 
Watc'-melon Rind, to preserve, 

498. 
Water, Purity of, 84 
Water Supply to towns, 80. 
Waterproof Cements, 71. 
Waterproof Shoes, to make, 578. 
Wax Paper, 74. 
Weak Eyes, for, 564. 
Wedding Cake, 4T5. 
Weights and Measures, 124 
Welsh Rabbit, 456. 
What We Eat, 79. 
White Beans, Haricot, 387. 
White Beans, Puree of, 386. 
White Cream for Pur6e Sauce, 

237. 
White Cucumber Pur6e, 237. 
White Lipsalve, .549. 
White Lilac Essence, 587. 
White Lace Veil, to wash, 574 
White Portable Soup, 160. 
White Rose, Essence oi; 540. 
White P.oux, 228. 
White Sauce, 214, 229, 230. 
White Sauce for Chickens, 229 
White Sauce, new, 236. 
White Sauce, Soyers, 232, 
White Poultry Sauce, 229. 
White Silk or Blonde Lace, to 

wash, 572. 
White Soup, 101, 163. 
White Soup, Stock for, 156. 
White Stock for Soup, 160. 
White Thickening, 238. 
White and Black Sausages, 827. 
White Sausages, 325, 827, 340. 



IKBEX. 



603 



Vrhlte Thickening Sance, 238. 
Wild Birfls, to carve. 115. 
Wild Fowl Sauce, 232. 
Wine, Blaokberrv, 514. 
Wine, Black Currant, 515. 
Wine, Cherry, 515. 
Wine, Cun-ant, 511. 
Wine, Elder, 516. 
Wine, Elderflower, 516. 
Wine, Ginsrer, 514. 
Wine, Gooseberry, 616. 
Wine, Green Gooseberry, 516. 
Wine Jelly, Port, 519. 
Wine of Mixed Fruits, 515. 
Wine, Mulled 522. 
Wine, to mull, 512. 



Wine Posset, 521. 

Wine Punch, 514. 

Wine, Rhubarb, 515. 

Wine. Valencia, 511. 

Wine, Whev, 520. 

Winter Green, 541. 

Winter Green, Iceland, 541. 

Winter Pea Sonj), 182. 

Winter Soup, 16^' 

Winter Sqnash, 885. 

Winter Veiietable Soup, 184 

Work, Routine of, 42. 

Writins:, to take Impressions of, 

569. 
Writing on Glass, 63. 



Yankee Apple Bntter, 506. 
Yeast Cakes, 405. 
Yeast Duinplinss, 450. 
Yeast, to make, 465. 
Yeast, Milk, 465. 
Yorkshire Goose Pie, 422. 
Yorkshire Pudding, 416, 4,33. 
Ypocras, 513. 



Zinc Ointment, 561, 



ADDENDA. 



Asthma, 681. 



Cold, apparent death from in- 

tensp. 586. 
Corns, 581. 

D 

Dandruff, 581. 

Drowning, restoration from. 

585. 



Flowers, to collect the odors of, 

586. 
Flowers, to crystallize, 554. 



Glycerine Lotion, 582. 



Greek Fire, 586. 

H 

Hair Dressing, 506. 
I 

Intemperate Habits, to cure, 

566. 
Itching, 584. 

L 

Laundry Polish, 582. 
Liniment, valuable, 584. 



Piles, 583. 
Pin Worms, 584. 
Poisons and their Antidotes, 
585. 



R 



Rat Poison, 581. 



S 



Syrups, Soda and Mineral Wa- 
ter, 584. 



Toe-Nails, ingrowing, 582. 
Toothache Drops, 583. 



Ventilation, Sunlight, and 
Warm Clothing, 582. 

W 

Whooping Cough, 583. 



AM&Mi^ WmMieM.j 



Experienced Agents (male or female), School Teachers, Sabbath School Teachers, Young MeH 
from the Countrj-, and Retired Clergj'men, are -wanted to act as Agents, in introducing into each 
Township and County in the United States and Canada, the most popular and best-selling book now 
before the public, viz., 

THE YOUNG PEOPLE'S 

ILLUSTRATED BIBLE HISTORY, 



embellished -with numerous costly steel and other engravings. A very popular work, which is 
meeting with great success. 
Also, 

The Illustrated History of the Holy Bible, 

by Dr. John Kltto, F.S.A., edited by Rev. Alvan Bond, D.D., of Norwich, Conn., assisted in Geol- 
ogy by Prof. C. H. Hitchcock, late of Amherst College, which is sold only by subscription. About 
200,000 persons have already ordered this book, and its sale is undiminished. (See advertisement.) 

All books remaining unsold may be returned at prices originally charged, if in good condition; 
provided they are returned within three months from the time of shipment. 

Any of my Agents, or a Subscriber to any of my Publications, or any Post Master, School 
Teacher, or Clergyman, who is instrumental in procuring for me a Successful Agent, and who 

SENDS ME A LETTER OF INTRODUCTION TO THE PARTIES WISHING THE AGENCY, Will be entitled 

to receive for his trouble the sum of Ten Dollars; and the same will be paid on application, if 
the Agent has succeeded in selling one hundred copies. In this way, a Clergyman, Agent, or other 
person, can, with little trouble to himself, assist his friends to useful and lucrative employment, aid 
in the circulation of a valuable book, and add One Hundred Dollars per annum to his own in- 
come. 

Ten Good Agents can be found In almost any community for a book of the high character of 
" The Young People's Bible History," or " Kitto's History of the Bible." School Teachers, Sabbath 
School Teachers, and Young Men from the country, are almost sure to succeed. 

Persons wishing appointments as Agents, or to obtain further information on the subject, will 
apply immediately (naming territory) at the Office of the Subscriber, or address by mail 

HEN RY BILL, 

NORWICH, CONN., 

Publisher. 



JUST PUBLISHED, 

AN ILLUSTRATED HISTORY 



OF 



THE HOLY BIBLE, 



BEING A CONNECTED ACCOUNT OF THE REMARKABLE EVENTS AND DISTINGUISHED 

CHARACTERS CONTAINED IN THE OLD AND NEW TESTAMENTS, AND IN JEWISH 

HISTORY DURING THE FOUR HUNDRED YEARS INTERVENING BETWEEN THE 

TIME OF MALACHI AND THE BIRTH OF CHRIST, INCLUDING ALSO THE 

LIFE OF CHRIST AND HIS APOSTLES; THE WHOLE EMBRACING A 

PERIOD OF FOUR THOUSAND YEARS; WITH NOTES CRITICAL, 

TOPOGRAPHICAL, AND EXPLANATORY; TOGETHER WITH 

CHRONOLOGICAL AND OTHER VALUABLE TABLES. 

By JOHN KITTO, 

Doctor of Divinity and Fellow of the Society of Arts, author of " Cyclopcedia of Biblicat 
Literature," " History of Palestine," cfc. 

Edited by ALVAN BOND, D.D., 

Formerly Professor of Biblical Literature in the Theological Seminary at Bangor, Me., 
and for 20 years Pastor of the Congregational Church, Norwich, Conn. 

Complete in one Royal Octavo Volume of over 700 pages, embellished and illustrated 

by over 100 full-page engravings and colored maps, with extensive 

Chronological and other important Tables. 

The Publisher is confident that this work will be regarded by intelligent readers, and es- 
pecially by the lovers of Sacred Literature, as one of great interest iind value. It presents, in 
a clear and beautiful style, a continuous history of the events embraced in tlie Sacred Record, 
describing the manners, customs, and religions tliat prevailed in the diflFirent periods; narrat- 
ing the numerous conflicts that marked the progress and decline of nations, and furnishing 
biographical sketches of the individuals whose names are inscribed on the rolls of virtue and 
fame. This volume comprises an amount of varied and useful information that cost the 
author much labor and research, and which could be obtained from the original sources only 
at great expense. It is confidently commended as a book for the family circle, and especially 
for those engaged in the work of Christian instruction. 

The name of the llev. Alvan Bond, D.D., by whom the work is edited, and who is well 
known as an accunate and accomplished Christian Scholar, is a sufficient guaranty that it ia 
one of real interest and merit. 

The numerous Engravings and Colored Maps that are found in the volume not only add to 
its beauty and attractiveness as embellishments, but illustrate, more accurately than words, 
the ancient customs and scenes which they represent. 

This work is approved and commended by all denominations of Christians. The success of 
Agents who have commenced to canvass for it, has exceeded the Publisher's most sanguine 
expectations, and experienced Agents say tliey never knew a book to sell so well. Some of 
the Agents are selling from twenty to forty copies in a day. Over One Thousand copies have 
been sold in Norwich, Conn., wliere the Editor resides. This great success of Agents has so 
encouraged the I'ublislier that he has put to press, on the finest paper, over $400,000 worth of 
this worlc, to be immediately followed by other editions. 

These large editions require nearly one hundred and fifty tons of paper> and require six 
months to print it on five large power-presses. 

This great work we design to pl.ace beside the Bible in every family in the land. 

For an Agency for this book, application should be made' immediately, as the territory is 
being rapidly engaged. For further information, apply to the publisher, naming townships 
preferred in the order of your preference. 

HENRY BILL, Norwich, Conn. 

(704) 



JUST PUBLISHED. 



THE YOUlSra I^EOPLE'S 

Illustrated Bitle History. 

BErao 
A Simple and Attractive Account of the Great Events mentioned in the 

OLD AND NEW TESTAMENTS. 

COMPRISING ALSO 

THE LIVES OF THE PATRIARCHS, 



AND OF THE 



Kemarkable Women and Children mentioned in the Sacred Volume. 

Each Section closing with Appropriate Moral Reflections. 



APPENDIX, 

CONTAININa DTSTRUOTIVE TABLES AND OTHER VABUABLE MATTER. 

WITH AN INTRODUCTION BY THE AMERICAN EDITOR, 

liEV. ALVAlSr BOND, D.D., 

Late Pastor of the Second Congregational Church in Norwich, Conn. 
Illustrated by Numerous £legant Steel Engravings jy the Most Eminent Artists. 

ACCOMPANIED BY AN ACCURATE 

MAP OF THE COUNTRIES OF THE BIBLE. 



This is a book that every Christian parent will desire to place in the hands of his children. In 
Its style, it happily unites that natural simplicity that will engage the attention of the youngest read- 
ers, and that fulness of thought which will command the interest of the older. Instead of the cheap 
cuts that abound in many books, this work is richly and beautifully illustrated with the finest steel 
engravings, by the very best artistic skill of the country. The Publisher has spared no labor or 
expense to make this work both valuable, and in the highest degree attractive. A Prospectus Book, 
for taking orders, is now ready, which shows in a condensed and convenient form the various attrac- 
tions and merits of the work. I would, however, recommend to Agents to take a sample copy of 
the book with the Prospectus, as it cannot fail to interest all who may see it. 

This work will contain about six hundred octavo pages, in double columnt, printed from new 
electrotype plates, on superfine white paper, embellished and illustrated with the finest and most 
costly steel and other engravings that can be executed in this country, together with a map of all the 
countries of the Bible. 

For an Agency, apply immediately to the Publisher, 

Nor^vieh, Conn. 



JUST PUBLISHED. 



THE NEW 



Cyclopedia of Domestic Economy 



AND 



PRACTICAL HOUSEKEEPING. 



A DAPTED to all classes of society ; comprising subjects connected with the inter- 
■^~*- ests of every family, such as — 

DOMESTIC EDUCATION, HOUSES, FURNITURE, DUTIES OF MISTRESS AND DOMESTICS, 
THE STOREHOUSE, MARKETING, TABLE AND ATTENDANCE, CARE AND TRAINING 
OF CHILDREN, CARE OF THE SICK, PREPARATION OF FOOD FOR CHIL- 
DREN AND INVALIDS, PRESERVATION OF HEALTH, DOMESTIC 
MEDICINE, THE ART OF COOKERY, PERFUMERY, THE 
TOILET, COSMETICS, AND 

FIVE THOUSAND PRACTICAL RECEIPTS AND MAXIMS 

From the best English, French, German, and American sources. 

EDITED BY MRS. E. P. ELLET, 
Author of " The Women of the American Revolution," &c., &c. 

The Whole Illustrated with over Two Hundred Engravings. 

Every housekeeper experiences more or less difficulty in settling many of the ques- 
tions that arise in the management of a house. This book will furnish much needed in- 
formation on all the subjects connected with Domestic Life, and is designed to meet 
every want in the varied range of household matters. 

Parents and Guardians will here find much to instruct and guide them in the care of 
their children in health and in sickness. 

Many of the original receipts and directions contained in this valuable work have 
been furnished to the editor by American housekeepers of long experience and tried 
skill, and proprietors of celebrated establishments in New York, such as Delmonico, 
Taylor, Wagner, and others. 

It is believed to be the largest and most complete system of Domestic Economy ever 
published in this country. 

It is intended for utility, and to satisfy a universal want. It only needs to be con- 
sulted to become an indispensable companion and guide to every lady who has charge 
of a household. 

Some of the original receipts in this book have been sold in private hands at ten 
dollars each. ^ 

No family should be without this great work, 

*** For an Agency, apply immediately to the Publisher, 

HENRY BILL, Norwich, Conn. 



THE HISTOBY 



or THE 



CIVIL WAR IN AMERICA, 

aSSUED IN THE ENGLISH AND GERMAN LANGUAGES,) 

OOUPBISmO A 

Full and Impartial Account of the Origin and Progress of the Rebellion, 

of the various Naval and Military Engagements, of the Heroic 

Deeds performed by Armies and Individuals, and of 

Touching Scenes in the Field, the Camp, 

the Hospital, and the Cabin. 

By J. S. C. ABBOTT, of New Haven, Conn., 

AiTTHOR or TUE " LiFE OP Napoleon ;" " History of the French Kevolution ;" " Monabohim 
or Continental Eukopb," etc. 

Illustrated with Maps, Diagrams, and numerous Steel Engravings of Battle 
Scenes, from original Designs by Darley, and other eminent Artists, and over 60 
Portraits on Steel of Distinguished Men from both North and South. 

This work, complete in two volumes of over 1,100 large Koyal Octavo pages, is 
aow ready for delivery ; and it is also issued complete in one volume of over 1,100 
>ages, and the Agents can now take subscribers for the whole work, either in one 
rolume or two. 

The author of this great work is well known by all literary men, as one of the 
most talented and popular historical writers, and his History of the Great Rebellion 
will not be surpassed in merit and attractiveness by any other that may be offered 
to the public. Numerous Maps and Diagrams are interspersed through the book. 

The Illustrations are all from original designs, engraved on steel, by the best 
Artists, expressly for the work, and comprise Portraits of Distinguished Command- 
ers and Civilians, both North and South, with the prominent Battle Scenes of Sea 
and Land. 

Trusting the reader will regard this work as one of superior importance and 
value, and as eminently worthy a place in every library and family in the land, the 
Publisher with entire confidence solicits your influence in giving it the widest 
possible circulation. You will confer a favor by speaking of the work among your 
friends, and also by showing this Circular to some acquaintance who would be likely 
to engage in its distribution. 

This is the best History of the "War yet published, and has had the largest sale 
of any book on the war. More than 300,000 volnmes have been subscribed for, 
requiring 375 tons of paper. Subscribers for the work who have obtained the first vol- 
ume, but who have failed to see the Agent, may obtain the second volume by addressing 
the Fublisber, 

HENE7 BILL, Norwicli, Conn. 



JUST ISSUED. 
■«♦ > 



OF 

WASHINGTON AND HIS TIMES: 

EMBRACUJQ A 

HISTORY OF THE SEVEN YEARS' WAR, 

THE 
THE 

FORMATION OF THE FEDERAL CONSTITUTION, 

AND THE 

ADMINISTRATIONS OF WASHINGTON, 

EXHIBITING THE DARING EXPLOITS AND HEROIC ENDURANCE OF THE NOBLE PATRIOTS 
WHO WON OUR LIBERTIES AND ESTABLISHED OUR INDEPENDENCE. 

WITH -A.1V A.I»I>E]VI>IX, 

Coniaining Maxims of Washington, the Declaration of Independence, the Articles of Confederation) 
the Constitution of the United States, and Washington's Farewell Address. 

EDITED BY REV. WILLIAM HUTCHISON, A. M. 

Principal of the Norwich Free Academy, Norwich, Conn. 



The book is a large octavo of over 600 pages, illustrated with nearly 100 Engravings on Steel and 
Wood, comprising Battle Scenes, the Costumes of the Times, Portraits of Washington and his Generals, 
views of noted Buildings, the homes of Distinguished Men, Mount Vernon and the Tomb of Washington 
as it now appears. 

This work is also enriched with the " Maxims of Washington," being his wise utterances on a great 
variety of subjects, collected and arranged by the Editor; together with the Declaration of Independence, 
the Articles of Confederation, the Constitution of the United States, and Washington's Farewell Address. 

A Prospectus Book, showing samples of the pages. Engravings, &c., is now ready, and Agents can 
canvass with it, or carry a sample of the book itself. I would recommend to Agents to take a copy of the 
book with the Prospectus, as its attractive appearance will induce very many to subscribe. 

If you desire an appointment as Agent, please apply in person, if convenient ; if not, remit in cash or 
money order, $5.00 for a sample copy of the book, and a complete outfit for canvassing, which will be 
forwarded by mail, postage paid. 

In applying for territory, name half a dozen towns in the order of your choice, and I will give you 
your first choice if possible ; if not, the nearest not engaged. If the territory is not granted, the money 
will be promptly returned. Please state your experience, if any, in the business, with what book, and your 
success ; also your age and previous occupation. 

Cities or large villages are not recommended for new beginners. All books not sold may be retiirned 
within three months, if in good condition. 

For an Agency, apply immediately to the Publisher, 

HENRY BILL, 

JSrORWICH, CONN. 



A PICTORIAL 




isbrg cf i\]t S^eto llorlb: 



CONTAINING A GENERAL VIEW OF ALL THE VARIOUS NATIONS^ 
STATES, AND REPUBLICS OF THE 

WESTERN CONTINENT; 

Comprising tlie early Discoveries by tlie Spanish, French, and other Navigator^ 
an account of the American Indians, and a 

COMPLETE HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES TO THE PRESENT TIME. 

Including the French and Indian Wars, the War of the Revolution, that of 1812, 
the late War with Mexico, and embracing the brilliant career of Washington, 
Wayne, Jackson, Taylor, Scott, Grant, and Sherman, and their compatriots, 
and a 

Complete History of the Rebellion to its Close. 

With an Appendix, containing important Public Documents, and closing with 
extensive and valuable Statistical Tables. 



EDITED BY 

JOHK LEDYARD DENISON, A.M., 

AurnoK of the " Pictoriai, ITistort of the Wars;" "Pictorial Natal History;* 
" Tub New World," in German, eto. 

The whole illustrated with over TJiree Hundred Ennra ings, some of which are 
beautifully Colored by hand, true to Nature, consisting of Battle Scenes, Views of 
(Cities, Flags of the various Nations, Prominent Events, and Portraits of Distin 
guished Men, from designs by LossiNG, Croome, Deveraux, and other celebrated 
American Artists. 

In one large octavo volume, containing about 900 pages, and illustrated with ovei 
300 Engravings, some of which are Steel, and many beautifully colored by hand, 
true to Nature, and will be bound in embossed and gilt leather binding, with 
marb\ed edges. 

This work was so well received, that already it has been translated into the Ger- 
|nan Language, under the title of Illustrated New World (see opposite page), and 
about 20,000 copies sold in the German Language in this country alone, and larga 
orders have been received from Germany, for the work in their language. 

t^ For an Agency, apply to the Publisher, 

HENRY BILL, Norwich^ Conn, 



IS.Ea03v^3i^ElTnD^TZ03SrS 



Kitto's Illustrated History of the Bible. 



From ReT< Ijeonard Bacon, I>.D. 

Any book in explanation of the Bible, from the 
learned Dr. Kitto, must be valuable. The llev. 
tor. Bond, I cannot doubt, will add to the value 
of Kitto's " History of the Bible," in the pro- 
posed American edition. 

LEONARD BACON. 

New Haven, 



From Bev. Theo. I<. Cnyler, ]>.I>. 

I so much approve of this "Illustrated His- 
tory of the Holy Bible," that I wish it might be 
laid beside the Blessed Book of which it treats, 
in thousands of dwelling. 

THEO. L. CUYLER, 
Pastor Lafayette Avenue Church. 
Brooklyn, N.Z 

From Bev. John P. OolUver, D.I>. 

Kitto's " Illustrated History of the Brole " 
appears to be a narration of the facts recorded 
in the Scriptures, with the addition of a brief 
history of events down to the destruction of 
Jerusalem, written in a simple and attractive 
Btyle, and free from the minuteness of detail 
•which often renders more recondite works unfit 
for popular use. It seems specially adapted to 
the wants of Sabbath schools and Bible classes. 
The names of the author and editor furnish an 
ample guaranty of the trustworthiness of the 
work. JOHN P. GULLIVER, 

Pastor of New-England Church, Chicago. 



From Bev. M. Emory TTrlght. 

" The niuBtrated History of the Holy Bible " 
has already been of great service to me in my 
studies of the Holy Scriptures. It presents the 
narrative portion of the divine word in a simple 
and easy, yet highly fascinating style, besides 
interweaving many historical facts and explana- 
tions, which throw great light upon the mean- 
ing of the sacred text. 

M. EMORY WRIGHT, 
jPastor Iflt Methodist Episcopal Church, 
Newburyport, Mass. 



From Bev. O. B. Oonld. 

No modern writer h.as contributed more large- 
ly to enrich the biblical literature of our time, 
or to clothe with a fresh and living interest the 
main personages and incidents in Old Testament 
history, than John Kitto. The present volume 
— " History of the Bible " — bears all the marks 
of his wide learning, patient and accurate 
scholarship, fervent piety, and graceful and 
popular style. The book is amply and finely il- 
lustrated, and edited by a competent American 
scholar. Rev. Alvan Bond, D.D., of Norwich. 
It deserves a wide circulation among all who 
love and prize the Bible. G. H. GOULD, 

Pastor 1st Cong. Church, Hartford, Conn. 



From Rev. Benjamin A.dams. 

I have examined "The Illustrated History of 
the Bible" with great pleasure. In my opinion 
it is a, book well qualified to do good, especially 
among the young and those who have not time 
for more careful and lengthy study of the great 
works on the Bibfe. Yours, 

BENJAMIN ADAMS, 
Pastor of Fleet Street M. E. Church. 
Brooklyn, N.Y. 



From Bev. G. F. Thrall. 

Dr. Kitto being widely known as a learned 
and judicious historian of the Scriptures, I can 
safely recommend his work upon the Bible to my 
people as a valuable aid in their studies of the 
sacred Word. GEORGE E. THRALL, 

Rector of the Church of the Messiah. 
Clinton Ave., Brooklyn, N.Y. ""'' 



From Bev. B. S. Storrs, BkB. 

"The Illustrated History Of the Bible," by 
Dr. Kitto, edited by Dr. Bond, contains a great 
amount of valuable matter in a small compass, 
and will be found, by those who study it, very 
helpful to a cle.ar and large understanding of tho 
scriptural narrative. R. S. BTORRS, JuN. 

Brooklyn, N.Y. 



